» How to repair a hammer drill quickly at home
The perforator is in demand not only for professional construction works, but also in everyday life, when it is necessary to drill a hole in a concrete wall. If you think that a drill can cope with any task, then you are mistaken here, since this tool is designed for drilling wood and metal. Even the most expensive tools are not eternal, therefore, in the event of a breakdown, each owner will be able to repair the puncher with their own hands. To do this, you do not need to take the tool to a service center so that the master evaluates the cost of a simple repair. How to repair each perforator assembly is discussed in detail in the material.
What is a perforator and how does it work
Structurally, a hammer drill is similar to a drill, but its main difference is that it is endowed with an enhanced percussion function. The impact function is needed in order to not only drill, but also drill holes in durable materials such as concrete, reinforced concrete, brick, etc. The tool copes with its main purpose in the best way. It is achieved through a special mechanism, which is called shock. This percussion mechanism is under heavy loads, so the need to repair the hammer drill with your own hands arises depending on the frequency of its operation.
The percussion mechanism is implemented through the use of a so-called “drunken bearing” tool in the device, which creates shocks that are transmitted to the piston. This piston, in turn, acts as an impact hammer, which hits the rod or striker connected to the working nozzle fixed in the cartridge. A detailed diagram of the perforator device is shown in the photo below, on the basis of which it becomes clear how the percussion system of the tool is arranged.
In addition to the impact motions generated by the indirect rotation of the bearing, the drilling of holes by the tool also requires rotational motions. This option is implemented due to the gear unit, presented in the form of a pair of straight gears. Rotational and shock movements are created by rotating the shaft of a powerful electric motor.
It is precisely due to the fact that a powerful impact mechanism is used in the design of the tool that it can be used not only for drilling holes in concrete, reinforced concrete and asphalt structures, but also to perform manipulations such as chiselling, destruction, removal ceramic tiles and so on. This tool is also called destructive, but this does not make it eternal.
The time comes when the components and mechanisms of the power tool break down, which requires the need for repairs, the cost of which in service centers is decent. Repairing perforators is not a difficult procedure, as it might seem at first, and for its successful implementation, you will need not only to know the device and design of the tool, but also the principle of operation.
Types of perforators and their design differences
Before you repair a hammer drill with your own hands, you need to understand the varieties of these tools. Hammer drills come in two types:
If straight punchers are classified by purpose into household and professional, then barrel units are intended exclusively for performing complex work. They have a large power reserve, so they are used exclusively by professionals to perform work of any complexity.
Many do not understand how barrel units differ from direct ones, except for the location of the engines. The main difference, and it is also the main advantage, is that barrel models have a more advanced cooling and lubrication system, presented in the form of a container into which a liquid lubricant is poured. This means that barrel appliances have a longer service life, and therefore they break less often.
Barrel punchers, although more perfect, their main drawback lies in their dimensions. They not only have massive dimensions, but also weigh 2 times more than direct units. Both pistol and barrel perforators break down over time, which leads to the need for repair work. To repair the tool, there is no need to contact specialized service centers. After all, repairing a perforator can be done with your own hands quickly and easily.
The principle of operation of the perforator
Consider the principle of operation of the units under consideration, which will simplify the troubleshooting process. For barrel and direct units, the principle of operation is the same, despite their distinctive design parameters. All perforators work according to this principle:
The tool not only creates rotational movements, but also percussion, due to which heavy types of work are performed with concrete and reinforced concrete structures. Having an idea of how the punch is arranged, as well as how it works, it will not be difficult to take on its repair, which can be done at home.
What types of malfunctions occur on rotary hammers
If the punch does not work, then you should not immediately rush to disassemble it. There is also no need to rush to buy a new power tool. You need to act in order. To begin with, it does not hurt to find out what types of malfunctions are most common on rotary hammers, which will help simplify not only repairs, but also identify the cause of the breakdown.
The most common cause of breakdowns is the wear of parts. If the parts are of high quality, then they have a long service life, and in the case of low-quality components, as on household units, you have to resort to do-it-yourself punch repair quite often. That is why household hammers are not recommended to be used often and for a long time, otherwise the need for its repair in the near future is inevitable.
The perforator device shows that a transformation is taking place in the aggregate electrical energy into a mechanical one, which is used to perform useful action. The tool can be conditionally divided into two parts:
- Electrical
- Mechanical
Actually, breakdowns are also divided into electrical and mechanical. Common signs of mechanical problems with rotary hammers include:
- When the start button is pressed, there are signs of motor operation, but the actuator is in place
- A working nozzle is wedged in the tool chuck - a drill, a chisel, a spatula, a crown, etc.
- Unable to install the nozzle in the chuck
- Extraneous noise occurs when the unit is turned on
- Operation modes do not switch
- Grease leaking
It is much easier to identify malfunctions of the mechanical part of the puncher than the electrical ones. This is due to the fact that the user sees signs of breakdown, which simplifies the repair procedure by 90%. TO frequent malfunctions electrical part of the puncher include:
- When you press the "Start" button, there are no signs of the functioning of the motor
- The sparking of the brushes increases during operation, and there are also signs of a burning sensation.
- Smoke is emitted from the tool
- When the button is pressed, the motor turns on and off alternately
In almost all cases of malfunctions of the puncher, in order to repair it with your own hands, you will need to disassemble it. This is not difficult to do, but you should not rush. After all, often the inoperability of the tool can occur due to the lack of electricity in the outlet. Therefore, it is important to start repairing the perforator with your own hands according to the instructions.
Repair of the electrical part of the puncher, diagnosis of breakdowns and their elimination
Most often, as practice shows, breakdowns of the perforator occur in the electrical part, so it is with it that you need to start diagnosing. If the tool works, but at the same time it crackles, buzzes or makes other sounds, then the breakdown must be looked for in the electrical part, so it is immediately recommended to skip the point on repairing the electrical part and proceed to troubleshooting the mechanics.
Diagnostics of the electrical part depends on what kind of breakdown has occurred - the device does not show signs of life or it works, but at the same time it sparks, smokes, or periodically turns off. So, in order to repair the puncher without outside help, you must follow the instructions. Consider the main types of breakdowns and how to eliminate them.
The engine does not turn on and does not show signs of life
The most common failure is when the tool does not turn on. The reasons can be various factors - from the lack of electricity in the outlet to the breakdown of the electric motor. But you need to start looking for the cause from the smallest to the largest, and not vice versa. It is not advisable to immediately disassemble the hammer drill if it does not show signs of life, since such types of malfunctions as described below can contribute to this.
No mains voltage
Trite, but it is in 15% of cases that these types of breakdowns occur for this reason. You are working, and suddenly the tool stops showing signs of life. Check availability immediately electrical voltage in room. Even if the lights in the room turn on, this does not mean that everything is working properly. Perhaps while drilling or operating a hammer drill, you hooked a wire in the wall that powers the outlet. Even with prolonged operation, the cable could overheat, and knock out the “machine” on the meter. In most cases, sockets and lighting in the premises are powered by different machines, then the sign of the presence of light in the room does not mean that everything is in order.
To make sure that there is voltage in the network, you must use an indicator screwdriver or a multimeter. It is better to pick up a multimeter, and setting it to measure AC voltage over 220 V, insert the probes into the outlet holes. If there is electricity in the outlet, and its indicators correspond to the norm (not lower than 190V and not higher than 250V), then proceed to the next stage of the test.
Mains cable damage
The current is supplied to the electric motor of the tool through a network wire, the length of which depends on the manufacturer that produces the puncher. When working with a tool, you can damage not only the cable in the wall, but also the power cord. And this may not necessarily be the working nozzle of the tool, but also the squeezing of the wire by a door or other objects, tools and materials.
You can identify a wire malfunction in the following way - visually inspect it for defects in the form of squeezing, damage and melting. If there are no signs of defects, then it is too early to beat the drums. The vein could become thinner, therefore, in order to determine the 100% serviceability of the network wire, you will need to ring it.
To dial the network wire, you will need to disassemble the puncher. More precisely, it is not necessary to disassemble the entire tool, but only its handle. After that, set the tester to the continuity mode, and touching the pin on the plug with one probe, and the second probe to the wire core (connected to the button), check. A beep means that she lived in order. Do the same for the second strand. If both cores are ringing, then you will need to make a more serious repair of the puncher with your own hands.
Punch button repair and diagnostics of its malfunction
What is a button on a puncher (it is also called a switch) - this is part electrical circuit, which is responsible for supplying current to the electric motor, that is, for turning the tool itself on and off. If the button on the punch is broken, then you can try to repair it. However, experience shows that repair attempts lead the masters to a dead end, and the result of such attempts is the same - buying a new button. Just do not rush to buy a button for a puncher, as it is not always a weak link.
If mechanically it does not show signs of failure, then the probability of its failure is 50%. If, when you press the button, there is a feeling of its malfunction, which manifests itself by such signs as jamming, jamming, failure to work, or the need to make great efforts to press it, then only a dial tone will help confirm its breakdown. To do this, you will also need a multimeter, which needs to carry out contact dialing.
It should be borne in mind that, depending on the model of perforators, the start buttons may differ. And the difference is not only in design, but also in functionality. Professional models of rotary hammers are equipped with start buttons without a speed controller, but with a lever for switching the direction of rotation of the cartridge - reverse. Household rotary hammers, which also often replace drills, are additionally equipped with speed controllers, which allows you to work at the appropriate rotational speed of the cartridge, for example, when you need to drill woodworking material.
Depending on the model of the puncher, the button can be disassembled and its contacts cleaned. However, if it wedges, then it is better to replace it immediately. To make sure that the problem of the inoperability of the tool is in the button, a multimeter set to the dialing mode will help. We turn on the dialing mode, and touch both probes to the corresponding terminals of the punch button. In this case, the trigger on the button must be pressed. If an appropriate beep is emitted when the trigger is pressed, then the button is working, and if not, then it needs to be replaced.
Below is a diagram of connecting a button on a rotary hammer with a reverse without a regulator. This circuit will be useful not only for the dialing of the button, but also for those who did not remember the location of the wires when replacing the switch.
If you have disassembled the puncher and do not know where to connect the probes for continuity, then you need to find the wires that go to power and the capacitor. It doesn’t matter what brand of hammer drill you have broken Bosch, Makita or others, in any case, the principle of checking is the same. To remove the wires from the switch contacts, on some models of punchers you will need to use a thin wire or an awl. The awl is inserted into thin hole near the contact where the wire enters and remove it.
If you want the new button to last much longer, it is recommended to buy the original sample. The video below shows the repair of the punch button and its replacement with your own hands.
How to repair a hammer drill when brushes are worn
If the graphite brushes that are designed to transmit current to the collector connected to the armature winding are worn out on the puncher. Principle of operation electric motors is to create magnetic field stator, which contributes to the drive of the moving part - armature or rotor.
Over time, the graphite brushes on the perforator are erased, which is absolutely normal. When they are abraded, the quality of the contact decreases, so if strong sparking occurs, which is visible through ventilation holes in the body of the puncher, as well as when a smell of burning and smoke is detected, it is necessary to replace the brushes. These items are not repairable as they are categorized Supplies. If they are worn out, then the motor brushes will need to be replaced. Changing the brushes is quite simple, for which you need to remove them from the brush assembly, after unscrewing the screws, disconnect the power wires that come from the button, and then install new ones in the reverse order of removal.
It is possible to determine the malfunction and unsuitability of brushes for further use by measuring their length of the working part. If the length of the graphite base is less than 8 mm, then the elements need to be replaced. After replacement, the hammer will work like new. The process of replacing brushes on an Einhell barrel puncher is described in the video material.
Speed controller malfunctions
Not all models of rotary hammers have a speed control. This device is usually located in the design of a push-button mechanism. If the design of your tool has a chuck speed controller that is out of order, then it cannot be repaired, so it should be replaced.
Such a sign as the absence of a change in the speed of rotation of the cartridge will help to identify a malfunction of the regulator. Another malfunction of the regulator can be the cause of the complete inoperability of the tool.
Malfunctions of the electric motor of the perforator
The heart of any power tool is a collector electric motor, which converts electrical energy into mechanical energy. If all the diagnostics and repair steps described above are completed, and the rotary hammer does not work, then the rotary hammer motor needs to be repaired. This is one of the most complex elements tool that requires a special approach. Breakdowns of this unit can be divided into two parts - malfunctions in the rotor and stator.
If the armature of the electric motor is broken, diagnostics and repair
You need to start diagnosing the rotor (armature) by checking the condition of the collector - these are plates or lamellas, due to which current flows through the brushes. First you need to inspect the condition of these lamellas, which should not have signs of soot and blackening. If there is carbon deposits, then perhaps the reason for the inoperability is in it. It is recommended to clean the soot with the finest paper sandpaper. For control cleaning, it is necessary to take cotton wool with alcohol, and thoroughly clean each plate.
After cleaning the collector and replacing the brushes, you need to check whether the hammer drill is working or not. If such a repair of the puncher does not give positive results, then you will need to arm yourself with a multimeter and check the suitability of the anchor.
The causes of damage to the armature of a power tool are:
- Violation of the winding insulation, which leads to an increase in resistance
- Violation of the integrity of the winding or breakage
- Lamination of the steel core
The process of checking the health of the motor armature is to perform the following steps:
It is almost impossible to replace the armature winding with your own hands at home, so you will need the help of specialists. Practice shows that replacing the winding is only advisable if you have an expensive puncher, the purchase of a new anchor for which will cost a round sum. If the puncher is inexpensive, then it’s easier to buy a new rotor and replace it yourself than to take it to a service for repair. The principle of checking the health of the rotor on all power tools is the same, therefore detailed description described on the example of Bulgarians.
Stator malfunctions on a puncher, how to identify and fix
The stator is the fixed part of the electric motor, which also consists of a steel base on which a copper winding is wound. The stator is a magnet, due to which the rotor is actuated, thereby setting it in motion. To verify the serviceability or malfunction of the stator of the perforator, you will also need to take the multimeter in your hands and carry out some simple manipulations:
- The presence of resistance between the stator windings and the core is checked. We touch the probe to the output of the windings, and the second to the core. The absence of resistance indicates the health of the device
- Each probe must be touched in turn to the corresponding terminals of the winding. The resistance in each winding should be approximately the same, and with a large run-up, we can conclude that the insulation is broken
- A visual inspection of the stator will also make a conclusion about its suitability. If there are signs of delamination of steel plates, it will need to be replaced. If only the winding is damaged, the stator can be repaired. However, for this it will need to be handed over to a service center for rewinding.
It is also worth noting that rotary hammers are equipped with powerful electric motors with high torque, so problems with the failure of the "heart" of the tool are extremely rare. If this happens, then the reason for this is the improper use of the tool, for example, household hammers cannot be used for a long time. Another reason may be improper storage when the tool is in a humid room. In any case, there are enough factors that can cause the engine to fail, therefore, only after a specific breakdown has been identified, it will be necessary to make a decision to eliminate it.
Repair of the mechanical part of the perforator, diagnosis of breakdowns and their elimination
In case of breakdowns in the mechanical part of the punch, you will also need to disassemble the tool in order to identify defects. Mechanical failures are much easier to detect, as they are audible or visible after disassembly.
In the mechanical part of the perforator, there are three main nodes that need to be repaired:
- Reducer - in order to identify a breakdown of this assembly, you will need to disassemble the tool, and then inspect the mechanism. If this is a barrel puncher, then you must first drain the oil. Visually, it is possible to identify such defects in the gearbox as licking of the gear teeth, a drunken bearing malfunction, and a violation of the integrity of the drummer. Repair of the perforator gearbox, unlike an electric motor, can be done by hand
- The cartridge is another node that, if not properly cared for, can fail. Often, cartridge failures are associated with clogging of its internal part. You can troubleshoot the cartridge on the puncher after disassembling this assembly. If the internal parts are damaged, then the cartridge must be replaced.
- The mode switch is a useful option that is designed to be able to operate the tool not only for drilling, but also for drilling
All these nodes break down sooner or later, and in order not to hand over the tool to a service center, it is recommended to repair the puncher yourself.
Gearbox repair or if the hammer drill does not work in impact hammer mode
If the hammer drill does not drill, but drills when the percussion mode is turned on, that is, the percussion function does not work, then the reasons for this may be factors such as a malfunction of the floating bearing (destruction of the inner race) and a violation of the integrity of the rod (striker). It is impossible to identify such a breakdown from afar without dismantling the plastic case, so the puncher (its mechanical part) is disassembled and the internal structure of the mechanism is examined.
How to replace a drunken bearing on a hammer drill
If the floating bearing (on straight lines) or the crankshaft (on barrel) units fails, they should be replaced. If the reason for the inoperability of the punch is a rod or striker, which wears out over time, then it should also be replaced. The process of dismantling a drunken bearing is quite simple. To do this, the fixing U-shaped bracket is removed with a screwdriver, after which the bearing can be removed by hand.
When replacing a floating bearing, you will need to perform a thorough cleaning of all internal parts.
How to repair a striker and put it back together
Breakage of the impact striker on perforators is a common malfunction that you can fix yourself if you know how to properly disassemble the design of the gearbox assembly. If it is necessary to repair or replace the drummer (aka the striker), then the process of extracting it from the raster tube is performed in the following way:
As a result, we get a striker, which consists of some parts, including sealing collars, which are recommended to be replaced with new ones.
Often the impact bolt fails in the striker and needs to be replaced.
After replacing it, it is necessary to assemble the parts and install the mechanism in place inside the raster tube, having previously lubricated each element. The impact striker is fixed with a retaining ring, which is installed by pressing in with a screwdriver.
How to remove and replace warped bearings and impact heads on rotary hammers is shown in detail in the video material.
In any case, if you change parts, then at the same time you need to completely replace the lubricant, having cleaned the entire mechanism and the body of the mechanical part from the old production. If this is not done, then the repair will most likely have to be repeated, since the lubricant contains a lot of metal dust and fragments.
If the cartridge stops rotating, how to repair
Before you repair the punch, you will first need to identify the cause of the breakdown. For example, if the working body or cartridge does not rotate, then the gear mechanism can serve as the reason for this. The moment from the motor shaft to the intermediate shaft of the tool is not transmitted due to abrasion of the teeth on the gears, so the chuck does not rotate.
Another cartridge may not rotate due to jamming of the gearbox assembly. If part of the gear tooth broke off, then it could be clamped inside the rotating elements, which leads to jamming. If the gearbox is jammed, then it will be heard. The motor will hum, but the tool will not work. To eliminate such a breakdown, disassembling the tool and removing stuck parts will help.
If the drill does not hold in the cartridge and constantly falls out
If, when a drill tool or other nozzles are installed in the chuck, they fall out, then the reason for this is non-compliance with the rules for operating the unit. Working with a tool that does not hold a drill and other nozzles is not only difficult, but also dangerous.
If the cartridge does not hold, then the reason for this is its wear or breakage. To eliminate this type of breakdown, you will need to disassemble the cartridge and identify the cause. The reasons may be the following factors:
- Deformation of locking balls for rotary hammers with SDS plus chuck type and rollers for SDS max
- Development of the restrictive ring
- Detent spring sagging
By replacing the worn part, the chuck starts working properly again. How to disassemble a perforator cartridge and repair it is shown on the example of a DIOLD sds max brand tool in the video below.
The cartridge does not hold in the puncher causes and repair
In addition to the fact that nozzles do not hold in the cartridge, there are situations when the drill flies along with the cartridge. This is also not a pleasant phenomenon, which has its own explanation. The reason for such a breakdown is the wear of the body mount, which fixes the element. The chuck body is secured by a retaining ring fitted on the end of the raster sleeve.
As soon as the integrity of the retaining ring is violated, the entire cartridge with all component parts- protective cover, balls, rollers, springs, etc. It is not difficult to repair a perforator with your own hands with a flying cartridge. To do this, you need to arrange all the elements in their places, and then fix everything with a new retaining ring. To install the retaining ring, you will need to use special devices- round pliers.
How to replace bearings on a rotary hammer and lubricate them
The puncher has not only a “drunk” bearing, but also ordinary ball bearings, on which the motor armature is centered. The bearings that drive the armature shaft need regular lubrication. The misaligned bearing must also be lubricated, otherwise it can accelerate its wear. When installing drills and other nozzles, their shanks should be lubricated, which will extend the service life constituent parts cartridge, among which there are fixing balls or rollers, depending on the type of cartridge.
To dismantle the bearings to replace them, you will need to use a special tool called a puller. Installing new bearings is done by using the correct size tube and hammer. When installing new devices, one factor must also be taken into account - they must not be skewed relative to the rotor shaft. How a drunken bearing changes is already known. On barrel perforators, instead of a drunken bearing, a crankshaft can be installed, which has a longer resource compared to its counterpart on direct units.
This is interesting! If we compare the cost of barrel models with impact mechanisms - a drunken bearing and crankshaft, then the latter are more expensive, due to their efficiency and reliability. However, this does not mean that models with floating bearings are not effective. They have a slightly shorter resource, but they also have a high efficiency of impact work.
How to properly disassemble the gearbox on the rotary hammer and repair it
To diagnose the gearbox, as well as its repair on the punch, you will first need to disassemble it. How to do it right, we will consider further. First you need to unscrew all the screws holding plastic cover housing, as well as dismantle the cartridge. After that, the gearbox with the housing is bred in different directions until a gap appears between them. To remove the mode switch, it must first be switched to the "impact with drilling" mode, and then dismantled. To do this, press the switch to the body and move it slightly below the drilling impact mode, and then pull it towards you.
Following the switch, you can remove the plastic housing cover, under which the gearbox is located, or remove the mechanism from the housing base. It all depends on the model of the perforator, which is being repaired. After repairing the gearbox on the puncher, you will need to assemble it in place, having previously treated it with lubricants. Lubricants must be in sufficient quantity to exclude the possibility of operation of the mechanism in conditions without lubricants.
How to repair a barrel puncher
Dismantling the hammer drill is not difficult, but the dismantling process differs depending on the type of tool. For example, repair barrel puncher begins with draining the oil from a special container, while there are no such devices on pistol devices.
The process of disassembling the barrel perforator begins with the fact that the plastic cover, which is located on top, is dismantled. To access the electrical part, you will need to remove the plastic cover at the bottom. The principle of repairing the electrical and mechanical parts of a barrel-type perforator is similar to direct devices.
On barrel perforators, crank mechanisms are used instead of warped bearings. However, in the design of such units, sliding bearings are used, located on the wheel cam together with the eccentric. All these mechanisms work in a liquid lubricant, the amount of which must be in abundance. If there is not enough lubrication or it has not changed for a long time, the probability of failure of the crank mechanism of the perforator increases.
If the striker is broken on the barrel puncher, that is, the impact mode does not work or it is noticed that the impact force has significantly weakened, then it is necessary to repair or replace it. The principle of repairing a barrel puncher to replace the striker is as follows:
If it is serviceable, as in the photo, then it is necessary to replace the seals and lubricate it. If it is damaged, then it should be replaced completely.
This is interesting! Barrel units do not have a drilling function in the design of the mechanism, as is typical for pistol devices. This means that professional barrel machines are used exclusively for heavy work such as chiselling and drilling. In addition, in the design of such units, only cartridges for nozzles with a shank type are used.SDS-max.
How to use and care for a perforator so that you do not often repair
How long a power tool will last depends on how it is properly maintained and stored. Even if this is a professional tool of the popular brands DeWalt, Makita, Metabo, Bosch, Hitachi and others, this does not mean at all that they can be loaded to the fullest. Any even the most high-quality and expensive tool has its own specific resource, which largely depends on the nature of operation and storage.
If you want to extend the life of the newly purchased puncher, then from the very first days you need to follow a number of the following recommendations:
- Before using the tool, it is necessary to check its technical condition visually.
- Use the machine only for the work for which it is intended. If there is no drilling option in the assignment, then you should not try to drill a hole with an impact function in metal or wood, since you will not only fail, but the tool will also break
- Before installing the drill and other nozzles in the cartridge, it is imperative to apply lubricant to the tail section. This will extend the life of not only the tool, but also the nozzles used.
- After finishing work, clean the hammer drill from dust and debris, and even better, using a compressor and a blow gun, clean the tool with compressed air
- Do not store the tool in damp rooms, as moisture accumulates in the design of the working mechanisms, which not only destroys the metal, but can also cause a short circuit when the tool is plugged into an outlet
These are the simplest rules that will help extend the life of the tool up to 5-10 years, depending on the frequency of its use. In addition to electric, there are also battery models of rotary hammers, the repair of which is almost the same. Structurally, battery devices are similar to barrel units, only they are additionally equipped with autonomous batteries.
In general, it should be noted that if the design of the device and the principle of operation are known, then it will not be difficult to perform any repair of a puncher with your own hands of different brands. Difficulties only arise mainly in terms of electrics, however, using the above material, any breakdowns can be easily and quickly eliminated. How a screwdriver works and tool design - ... Learning to take measurements different types micrometers [Total Votes: 2 Average: 5/5]
The puncher always works in difficult conditions and after a while can fail. You can buy a cheap fake again, but you can’t just throw away a branded model just like that. In order not to pay a “round” amount for repairing, you can repair the puncher with your own hands. But for this it is necessary to imagine what nodes the tool consists of, the order of its disassembly and possible replacement certain details.
REQUIRED TOOLS AND MATERIALS
Screwdrivers Tweezers Pliers
ExpandHow is a perforator
Any electromechanical device eventually becomes unusable. If you have certain skills, then you can try to do the repair yourself. To do this, you need to know the principle of operation and the device of perforators, which are divided into two types:
- The engine is installed horizontally.
- The motor is upright.
For repairs, it doesn't really matter. All other details are almost identical. Any device consists of two main parts:
- Electrical:
- power cable;
- elements that dampen interference (capacitor, chokes);
- switch;
- engine control device (UUD);
- commutator motor (anchor, brushes).
In some models, the switch is combined with the control device.
- Mechanical:
- gearbox (gear) on the motor shaft;
- clutch;
- shock-translational mechanism pneumatic (piston) or mechanical;
- clamping chuck.
In expensive devices, for convenience and safety, auxiliary mechanisms are installed:
- depth limit;
- vacuum cleaner;
- mode switch;
- bit fixation
- others.
How to repair a perforator with your own hands?
Many people who are ignorant of technology, bringing a tool for repair, always describe the breakdown with the words “the hammer has stopped hammering” or “it does not turn on”. And only with meticulous questioning do they remember that they put a lot of pressure on it, did not lubricate it, worked with network fluctuations (during operation, the “light blinked”). All this causes the failure of the device and the appearance of damage, which are divided into:
- Electrical:
- the device does not turn on;
- sparks are visible in the case;
- turns do not change;
- smoke is coming out of the hull;
- when turned on, it knocks out (automatic) plugs.
- Mechanical:
- the puncher does not hammer;
- a rattle or crack is heard;
- modes are not switched;
- fluid leaks out of the machine during operation.
Proper disassembly of the perforator
To repair a particular malfunction, any electromechanical device must be disassembled. Each model has its own nuances in execution. And although the bodies of almost all tools are made from two halves, the way of disassembling one brand may not work for the model of another.
The cases of many models are made of front and rear half, when viewed from the side of the cartridge. The screws tightening the body are parallel to the chiseling axis, and if the caliber of the cartridge is smaller than the diameter of the body, then it is easy to unscrew them. But on many devices, the diameters are the same. Therefore, you must first remove the cartridge, and then disassemble the rest.
For other models, the case is disassembled from the side. We unscrew the screws, remove half of the case and all the mechanics, as "in the palm of your hand." You can start checking right away. True, to repair the electrical part, you will need to unscrew the handle, but this is not so difficult. The main points of disassembly-assembly can be found on the Internet on the service "YOUTUBE". Therefore, we proceed directly to the repair.
Electrical faults and their elimination
- The device does not turn on for the following reasons:
- Broken cord (usually at the handle itself). The cord should be replaced or shortened, stripped, carefully threaded into the rubber seal-shock absorber on the handle and soldered to the appropriate places.
- Bad contact in the switch (for example, oxidation).
- Breakage (combustion) of extinguishing elements. They should be replaced. For a while (if there are no such elements), you can connect the engine "directly" to the UUD. Please note - this method can lead to rapid wear of the motor.
- The combustion of the UUD itself. Change to a new one.
- Breakage or burning of windings. It must be taken to a workshop or a friend for rewinding.
Advice: Breakage of the cord or windings, non-contact of the switch and combustion of extinguishing elements, check with a tester.
- Sparks are visible inside the case. Calls them:
- Bad fit of the brushes to the armature due to wear. It is necessary to change the brushes or sharpen them with a needle file (fine "skin").
- Anchor oxidation. To be cleaned with a student's rubber band or alcohol.
- The revolutions do not change due to a malfunction of the UUD. To be replaced, but you can do without it for a while.
- Smoke comes from a malfunction of the windings, brushes or other elements. For example, due to the "jamming" of the motor, the windings begin to heat up and smoke. Visual inspection required
- Plugs can be knocked out by shorting a cord (insulation breakdown) or a switch.
Mechanical faults and their elimination
There is no single answer to the natural question why the punch does not hammer. This can happen for the reasons below:
- The main function is not executed (does not hammer).
- Breakage of any of the metal parts inside many models in this sequence.
After inspection and detection of a malfunction, the unusable part is changed.
- Leakage of fluid from the cylinder due to damage to the gaskets. Change gasket.
- Dirt getting inside. Clean tool.
- Solidification of lubricant. Remove old grease and apply a new coat.
- Gearbox failure. Once identified, replace.
- Bearing failure. Replace
- A rattle or crack is heard due to the following reasons:
- Bad lubrication. Be sure to change to the same. It is forbidden to use grease and other lubricants of this type.
- Crack in bearings or gears. Change.
- The details worked out. For example, the fingers of the mode switch. change switch
- Modes are not switching due to what happened:
- wear or breakage of switch fingers.
The switch needs to be replaced, but for a while you can turn the worn finger 180 degrees.
- breakdown seats. Be sure to change the switch.
- broken caps. Replace.
Spontaneous change of modes occurs due to a breakdown of the latch. Some people continue to work in this mode, but it is best to replace the latch.
- Fluid may leak due to deformation (rupture) of the gearbox or cylinder gaskets. After identifying a faulty gasket, it should be replaced.
Prevention at work
The shock-translational device and the gearbox of the device are subjected to heavy loads. Assemblies heat up during operation, seals rub against moving parts and wear out. All this leads to malfunctions. To avoid premature failure of the device, the following instructions must be observed:
- once every six months, completely change the gearbox lubricant;
- once every 6 months, remove the brushes, inspect and replace them if necessary;
- after work, blow the insides with a vacuum cleaner;
- before work, do not forget to lubricate the rear end of the drill (chisel). If this is not done, the striker and seals will wear out quickly.
Advice: Do not apply pressure to the instrument. With pressure, the stroke of the striker decreases, it begins to beat faster. Because of this, the striker and seals become unusable.
A perforator is such a tool, without which today it is difficult to imagine the bulk of repair and construction work. That is why today every person associated with repair and construction seeks to get this tool for himself. A video about repairing a puncher with your own hands will be of interest to everyone who wants to learn how to identify and fix breakdowns of this tool on their own.
Finding out the cause of the breakdown
In order to know what specifically needs to be repaired, you need to understand the causes of the failure of the puncher. This video will help you do it.
Replacing the bearing in the rotary hammer
In those cases when, during the operation of the punch, you began to hear a rustle that was uncharacteristic of normal operation, or suddenly felt that the drill began to slip, then it was time to change the bearing. See this video for how to do it.
Disassembly of the rotary hammer gearbox
The gearbox in the puncher is necessary to transmit rotational motion from the engine to the cartridge. It is he who activates the percussion mechanism. In order to lubricate the parts or replace them, it is necessary to disassemble the gearbox. See this video for how to do it.
Another video about the disassembly of the gearbox.
Perforator Lubrication
In order for the perforator not to fail, it is necessary to carry out proper care for it. One of the main conditions proper care– regular lubrication of the tool. And in order to lubricate the device, it must be disassembled. You will learn how to do this by watching this video.
If you need to repair a perforator, then this means, at a minimum, that you already have it. Although it is quite possible that you are still only studying the weaknesses of its design in parallel, and which nodes can theoretically fail in it.
Well, let's try to help you. In this article we will study:
- Perforator device.
- The most loaded parts and components of the tool.
- Disassembly and assembly.
- Measures that extend the life of percussion drilling power tools.
Perforator device
Studying the principle of operation of a percussion drilling tool will not only expand your technical horizons, but first of all will allow you to competently produce it Maintenance and, if necessary, repairs. To facilitate understanding of the processes occurring during drilling hard materials(and this tool is designed to perform just such jobs), do not be too lazy to watch these two short videos. The first one clearly shows the operation of a rotary hammer with a longitudinal engine.
The second video shows the device of the perforator with a transverse engine.
So, let's start with the most important thing: concrete, brick, stone, the tool destroys shock wave, which occurs at the moment of a very short contact of the striker with the end of the drill (through the striker). The energy of the shock wave is transmitted through the drill (impact drill) and destroys the bonds (forms microcracks) between the grains of the minerals that make up the stone (concrete, brick). The spiral grooves of the rotating drill serve to remove loose particles of material from the hole.
(Hence the conclusion follows: there is no need to press hard on the perforator concrete wall, he will not drill faster - just get tired yourself, and the tool will break faster.)
The striker is made of high-strength steel and moves freely enough inside the piston cylinder. The sealing rubber ring seals the gap, preventing air from passing freely into the gap between the cylinder and the drummer.
The outer race of the rolling bearing, mounted at an angle on a shaft rotated by an electric motor, reciprocates, causing the piston cylinder to move back and forth. When moving the cylinder forward (toward the drill), the drummer remains in place by inertia, the air between the drummer and back wall cylinder is compressed and pushes the drummer to meet the end of the drill.
In fact, this air serves as a damping element that prevents deformation and destruction of the perforator cylinder. In a tool with a transverse engine, the cylinder is stationary, and the rarefaction and compression of air behind the striker is created by a piston driven by a crank mechanism.
The most loaded parts and assemblies of the perforator
Based on the foregoing, the impact mechanism and gearbox in the process long work experiencing maximum stress. Part of the impactor's kinetic energy is converted into thermal energy, and heats up the entire assembly. O-ring rubs continuously against inner surface cylinder and with a lack of lubrication wears out, over time passing more and more air from the working area.
The energy of compressed air becomes less and less - the impact drill no longer hammers as it should. At self repair perforator sometimes it is enough just to change the lubricant in the gearbox, the piston cylinder and the rubber sealing ring on the drummer.
During long continuous operation or during normal drilling under high load, the electric motor can easily overheat and burn out. Although the latest models of the tool have an electronic control unit that includes motor overload protection. Oh, the power cord, electronics and power button, if you wish, you can read in the previous article.
Disassembly and assembly of the puncher
When trying to repair a puncher with your own hands, first of all, you need to disassemble it. To do this, the rubber tip, annular spring, and the casing of the drill fixation coupling are removed. The fixing steel ball is removed. By turning the operating mode switch to its extreme position, pressing the locking button on it, the switch handle is removed.
The rear pad on the handle is removed, the brushes of the electric motor are removed. 4 screws are unscrewed (from the side of the drill) and the entire front part of the tool (gear housing) containing the barrel, gearbox, impact mechanism and operation mode switch will be removed.
The motor rotor is removed. Two screws securing the stator are unscrewed. 4 terminals are removed from the stator contacts, then it is removed from the housing. The switch (button + reverse switch), brush holder, noise filter and power cord are removed.
If it is necessary to repair the puncher in terms of the impact mechanism and gearbox, 4 screws are unscrewed from the end of the gearbox housing, then the outer plastic casing is removed. It is best to do this in an upright position. Then in the inner case all the details will remain in place.
After replacing the defective part, the assembly is carried out in the reverse order. Parts that turned out to be "superfluous" should be wiped dry and taken to a repair shop along with a perforator.
Activities that extend the "life" of the perforator
All activities are as follows:
- Read the user manual and operating instructions for the instrument carefully.
- Strictly follow the instructions given in the instructions.
- Change gear and impact mechanism lubricant regularly. Exactly replace, since there is no point in adding a new lubricant to the used old one - metal dust serves as an excellent abrasive that “eats” everything in its path.
- Lubricate the drill shank before work.
- Inspect motor brushes regularly and replace as needed.
- Clean the outside of the tool every day after finishing work.
- Try not to work in clouds of dust - it is harmful not only for the perforator, but also for your lungs. Ventilate workplace by opening all windows.
- Do not climb into what you do not understand at all - entrust the service to a professional, or, if you have already undertaken to repair the puncher with your own hands, then do it slowly, remembering well where you put it.
We wish you success!
For drilling holes in various materials, breaking walls, drilling rocks and roads designed rock drill. The tool is used under heavy loads and eventually malfunctions. You can replace a failed puncher with an inexpensive Chinese model. But if you have a branded instrument, then it is a pity to throw it away. In order not to give half the cost of the puncher for troubleshooting, you can do it yourself. No repair is complete without studying the structure of the tool and the procedure for disassembling it.
Types of punchers
Perforators have several classifications. This is due to the different areas of application of the tool.
The number of modes can be from one to three:
drilling. The puncher works in the mode of a drill;
impact drilling. You can make holes in brick and concrete;
jackhammer, that is, a blow without drilling.
Hammer drive types:
Mass classification:
- heavy. Over 5 kg. Over 1200 W. In construction.
lungs. 2–4 kg. Power 400–700 W. Used in everyday life;
medium. About 5 kg. Power 700–1200 W. Professional;
Types of cartridges used in rotary hammers:
SDS+ is installed on light and medium rock drills for work with drills up to 20 mm;
SDS max is used for drills over 20 mm, so they are installed on heavy rock drills with high power.
Classification by engine location:
Perforator device
Regardless of the functions and designs, rotary hammers have similar basic elements.
The device is a simple puncher with a network drive
Network cord.
Power button.
Engine.
Reducer.
The barrel puncher has the same main components.
Barrel puncher device with network drive
The impact mechanism of the perforator can be made in two versions:
The oscillating bearing is also called drunk. This mechanism is used in light and medium perforators.
Impact mechanism with drunken bearing
The crank mechanism is used in heavy rotary hammers.
Crank-and-rod percussion mechanism
How to disassemble a hammer drill
Disassemble the hammer drill sequentially. Look carefully at all the details. Even if you are looking for a problem in one node, you can find damaged parts in other nodes. When disassembling the tool, clean the case from dust and dirty grease.
How to disassemble the cartridge and remove the stuck tooling
Start by disassembling the cartridge so that it does not interfere with the removal of the gearbox housing.
If a drill or other equipment is not pulled out of the cartridge, there are two options for solving this problem:
- clamp the tool in a vise. Slightly shaking the punch, pull it towards you;
- clamp the rotary hammer in a vise through the rubber pads so as not to damage the plastic case. Clamp the end of the snap with a gas wrench. Tap with a hammer on the wrench in the direction of the tooling axis.
The second option is used in last resort. If after several blows the drill or chisel cannot be pulled out, stop. You may damage the punch. Disassemble the chuck and gearbox. Try to knock out the snap with a punch. After such a procedure, most likely, a replacement of the raster sleeve will be required. To avoid such a problem in the future, lubricate the end of the snap.
How to remove a stuck drill from a drill chuck
How to remove the mode switch
In some models of rotary hammers, the switch is removed by turning it to the extreme right position, in others - to the extreme left. Consider the extreme right position.
Analysis of the electrical part of the puncher
Analysis of the mechanical part of the perforator
- Remove the plastic gear case. You will see an aluminum body with a screwed bearing inserted into it, an intermediate shaft, a raster bushing.
- Thoroughly clean the plastic housing of the gearbox, because pieces from the collapsed bearing remain in it. Take a magnet and go through all the holes to remove all the balls and metal fragments. Clean out the grease completely. Pieces of the plastic separator may remain in it.
- Remove the intermediate shaft from the drunken bearing.
- To dismantle the helical gear, remove the snap ring and bearing with a special puller.
- To dismantle the spur gear, remove the circlip and spring at the other end of the shaft.
- Remove the sleeve from the sleeve.
- Remove the sleeve from aluminum case.
- There is a striker inside the sleeve. It is pulled out with a bent rigid wire.
How to assemble a perforator
Assembly is carried out in blocks. First, collect small parts into blocks, and then connect them.
- Insert a bearing with a promshaft and a sleeve into the aluminum gearbox housing.
- Put a rubber band on the body. It prevents leakage of lubricant.
- Connect the grid sleeve to the sleeve.
- Lubricate the drunken bearing and gears liberally on the outside.
- Put the plastic gearbox housing on the assembled unit.
- Insert the rotor into the gearbox.
- Install the stator and air intake into the electrical housing. Connect the two halves of the punch body.
- Insert a screwdriver into the hole in the raster sleeve and twist. It should rotate easily. Tighten the housing bolts.
- Put the brushes in place.
- Insert the button and all the wires into the grooves. Make sure nothing is in the way and put on back cover. Screw it on.
- Before installing the switch button with a screwdriver, move the switch bracket in the punch body. So that the pin that is on the switch gets between the two metal guides of the bracket.
- Place the mode switch just below the impact, push it down and turn it up until it clicks.
- Assemble the cartridge in reverse order.
How to assemble a perforator
Punch Diagnostics
Take the multimeter, put it in the dialing mode and start testing with the power cord.
- Connect one probe to the end of the plug, the other to the contacts on the other end of the wire. When connected to one of the contacts, there should be an audible signal. Do the same with the other end of the fork.
- Check the power button on the contacts with the power cord and with the stator. Press the button trigger.
- Check reverse contacts.
- Connect the probes to the brushes to check the contact through the armature.
- Connect the probes to the stator wires and ring them.
- If the contacts on the stator or brushes do not ring, and the buttons and power cord are working, proceed to the diagnostics of the collector and motor windings.
Diagnostics of wires and buttons of a puncher with a multimeter
At the anchor, first inspect the collector and winding. If the wiring is melted, the burnt insulating varnish will leave black marks or a peculiar smell. You can see bent and crumpled coils or conductive particles, such as solder residue. These particles cause a short circuit between the turns. Manifold damage: Raised, worn or burnt plates.
Run diagnostics with a multimeter:
set the resistance mode to 200 ohms. Connect the probes of the device to the ends of one winding. One means an open, and zero means a short circuit between the turns. If it shows the presence of a resistance of more than 1.5 ohms, then check the second winding. Both windings should have approximately the same resistance;
check the absence of breakdown to ground, that is, the short circuit of the winding with the metal case of the stator. Set your multimeter to maximum resistance. Connect one probe to the end of the winding, the other probe to the metal case of the stator. The unit indicates the absence of a breakdown.
- does not turn on. Check the electrical circuit;
- perforator does not hit. Breakage in the impact mechanism;
- the tool does not turn, does not drill. Causes: armature bearings, armature gear, gearbox;
- the drill flies out, does not hold. Malfunction of the cartridge or raster sleeve;
- sparking in the electrical housing. Causes: violation of the insulation of the armature winding, wear of the brushes, collector, clogging of the brush holders;
- sparking in the power button area. Faulty button contacts or wires;
- the drill gets hot. The reason is worn brushes, short circuit of the winding turns, poor lubrication of the gearbox;
- puncher does not hold a cartridge. Snap ring or locking washer broken.
- To replace the button, just unscrew the screws of the contacts. But there may be buttons without screws. Here, next to the contacts, there are holes into which a needle or a thin awl is inserted. Poke into the hole, push in and pull out the wire. Do not pull on the wire, you may damage the button.
- Wires must be stripped and tinned.
- Take an old button and buy a similar one.
- On the new button, insert the awl into the hole, press lightly and insert the wire. It will automatically be clamped by contacts.
- Remove the stator from the electrical housing. Put a new one in its place.
- Screw in the mounting bolts.
- Install the air intake.
- Proceed to connect the windings. Connect the two ends of different windings to each other and connect to the nearest brush. Connect the other two connected ends to the start button. Connect the wire from the second brush to the button as well.
set the resistance to 200 ohms. Connect the probes of the device to two adjacent collector plates. If the resistance is the same between all adjacent plates, then the winding is working. If the resistance is less than 1 ohm and very close to zero, there is a short circuit between the turns. If the resistance is two or more times higher than the average, then there is a break in the turns of the winding. Sometimes, during a break, the resistance is so high that the device goes off scale. On an analog multimeter, the arrow will go all the way to the right. And on digital it will not show anything;
mass breakdown determination. Set the maximum resistance on the scale of the device. Depending on the tester, it can be from 2 MΩ to 200 MΩ. Connect one probe to the shaft, and the other to each plate in turn. In the absence of faults, the resistance should be zero;
The anchor can be saved if the balance is not disturbed. If during the operation of the device an intermittent hum is heard and there is a strong vibration, then this is a violation of the balance. This anchor needs to be replaced. And you can repair the winding and collector. Small short circuits are eliminated. If a significant part of the winding is damaged, it can be rewound. Worn and badly damaged lamellas should be machined, extended or soldered. In addition, you should not undertake anchor repair if you are unsure of your capabilities. It is better to replace it or take it to the repair shop.
Checking the performance of the stator with a multimeter:
Malfunctions and their causes
Frequent malfunctions of the perforator:
DIY repair
When disassembling the assembly, carefully inspect the parts for cracks and chips.
Replacing the power button
Before replacing, mark the wiring and button contacts so as not to confuse the connection order.
Replacing a button with an awl
Brushes should be checked periodically. If one is worn by 40%, change both. Also, clean the brush holders.
Replacement and connection of the stator
Bearing replacement
The drill has several bearings. You will need a puller to remove them. In some cases, it is necessary to remove the retaining ring. If there is no puller, they hang the shaft with the bearing and knock it out with a piece of wood. The bearing is seated using a fitting made of a polypropylene tube by tapping on it with a hammer.
Cartridge replacement
Cartridges in rotary hammers are very easy to change. Remove the rubber boot, retaining ring, plastic boot, washer that presses the balls, fixing plates, spring. IN different models the number of rings and plates is different. Replace them with a new set.
Drunk Bearing Repair
Prepare a flathead screwdriver, a clean rag, and the gear lubricant recommended in the manual.
Repair of raster bushing and impact bolt
To disassemble the raster sleeve, you need to compress the spring, remove the retaining ring and gear.
Raster sleeve assembly and without gear
The impact bolt is repaired by replacing parts or replaced completely if it has fallen apart.
Sleeve replacement
The sleeve wears out less often than the raster sleeve, but with frequent overheating of the tool, it also fails. Remove the grid sleeve and sleeve from the aluminum gear case. Put a new one in its place.
Worn and new sleeve with striker
Features of barrel puncher repair
Repair of a barrel puncher has the same principles as a simple one. The main difference is in the design and number of elements.
Replacing the brushes on a barrel puncher
Impact mechanism and gearbox repair
The main difference between a barrel puncher and a gearbox that is simple in design. Some models have an impact mechanism with a drunken bearing.
Barrel puncher with screwed bearing
But most rotary hammers have a crank-and-rod impact mechanism.
Barrel perforator with crank percussion mechanism
All gears and bearings should be checked and lubricated. Worn change. To disassemble this design, you need to unscrew the bolts on the body. The barrel is knocked out of the body rubber mallet. The bearings are removed with a puller.
How to remove the striker and raster sleeve from a barrel puncher
Due to a faulty striker, the puncher stops beating.
Barrel Punch Repair
Proper operation and care of the perforator
In order for the puncher to work for a long time, some recommendations should be followed:
before fixing the snap, lubricate the shank with the agent specified in the instructions;
after work, clean the chuck and tooling;
when working with concrete, remove the drill every 2 cm;
if you need to drill big hole, use drills of different diameters so as not to drill with the largest drill at once;
Take breaks for large workloads to cool down. During breaks, you can clean the cartridge;
spend regularly complete analysis tools for cleaning and lubricating.
If the punch has any malfunction, read the instructions. Inspect the instrument carefully. If you do not doubt yourself, then do the repair yourself.
