In a country house, water is used constantly, so it is impossible to live without it. It happens that organizing a public water supply is quite difficult. Centralized water supply can be expensive due to the remoteness of summer cottages from each other.
The easiest way is to use your own water source. However, the first step is to make it. A private well can help the site owner meet his economic needs. In this case, the owner will not need to pay for the water supply, counting how many cubic meters of water were spent. Digging wells is costly in terms of money and time, which is why many owners of summer cottages are interested in knowing how to drill a well by hand. Do this design It’s quite simple to do it yourself if you know the manufacturing technology and the principle of constructing a well.
Before manufacturing, you will need to examine the site to determine the level of groundwater. From this parameter The amount of work that needs to be done to ensure there is water in the well will depend. The type of well is selected based on the depth of the soil that contains water.
If the water is at a depth of 4-10 m, then an “Abyssinian well” can be made. If water is available at a depth of up to 50 m, a sand well should be used. If the water is in the ground at a depth of up to 200 m, then you will need to make an artesian well. Almost every owner can do the first two types independently. summer cottage, but to make an artesian well you will need a drilling device and drillers with experience.
Features of the work
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Device
This type of source involves pumping water from a depth of 50 m. A sand well has this name because the water from it will come from a layer of sand that lies at a depth of 50 m.
This will not be able to provide clean water, so after some time it will be necessary to check the contents of the well at the sanitation station.
To organize a sand well, you should use a scheme with a pump. The water will be cleared of suspended matter and debris thanks to a filter that is installed at the appropriate depth. The filter must be cleaned constantly. The service life of a sand well is approximately 15 years.
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"Abyssinian Well"
This well is quite simple to make. It has a shallow depth, so you will need to take care of choosing a suitable place for it. There should be no septic tanks, various debris or pits near the well.
The well will be of shallow depth, and therefore harmful substances may fall into it, resulting in water pollution.
If the soil does not contain pebbles or any hard rocks, a well can be drilled in basement at home or near it. A similar source of water in the basement can be used even in frosty conditions. A well of this type in a private house can be equipped with a manual column and pump, so that it is possible to use water even without electricity.
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Artesian well
If there are already similar wells in areas located nearby, then there is a high probability that water lies in a limestone layer in this area. If there are no similar areas nearby, then drillers need to order an experimental water source so that they can determine the depth of groundwater. Artesian wells can provide water to several summer cottages at the same time. In some cases, several land owners drill one well in order to save some money. Money.
The choice of well type will depend not only on the type of soil, but also on how much water is planned to be used. A sand well and an Abyssinian well can easily provide a small flow rate. If you need more than 10 m³/hour of water, you will have to make an artesian well. It is recommended to drill any structure away from various pollutants and closer to private or country house so that it is possible to lay the water supply without any problems.
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Equipment
Specialists use drilling rigs to make artesian wells. To make shallow wells, you can use an ordinary tripod with a winch. She will be able to lower and raise well making tools, which consist of special pipes, rods, cores and drills.
Special equipment will require a drilling tool, with which it is possible to go deeper into the ground, as well as a tripod and a winch. In order to drill a well yourself, you need to use a metal auger. In this case, an ice screw, which is used for winter fishing, may be suitable. The drill must be made exclusively from high strength steel. Using these tools, you can make a well with minimal costs Money. In addition to the tripod, you will need:
- Pipes of various diameters.
- Valves.
- Filter elements.
- Caisson.
- Special pump.
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Sequencing
First of all, you will need to dig a hole measuring 150x150 cm. To prevent the recess from starting to crumble, its walls will need to be lined plywood sheets, boards or pieces of chipboard. To secure the structure, you can also dig a hole with a diameter of 20 cm and a depth of 1 m with an ordinary drill. This must be done so that the pipe is securely fixed in a vertical position.
Above the recess you need to install a strong tripod made of metal or wood, securing a winch at the location of its supports. In most cases, tripods are made of wood. You need to hang a drilling column with 1.5 m rods on the tower. The rods are threaded into a pipe and then secured with a clamp. This device can be used to lower and raise tools.
The pump should be selected in advance so that it is possible to determine the diameter of the well being manufactured and the column pipe. The pump should fit easily into the pipe.
Drilling such a water source involves lowering and raising equipment.
The rod rotates and is immediately struck from above by the chisel. This work It’s most convenient to do it with two people: one person will turn the gas wrench, and the second will hit the bar from above to break through the rock. Using a winch can simplify the process because it makes it much easier to lift and lower equipment into the well. The rod must be marked when drilling. Markings will be needed in order to be able to navigate freely. The markings help you determine when to pull out the rod and clean the drill. Most often this needs to be done every 0.5 m.
Using a chisel, it is necessary to loosen hard layers of soil.
To be able to easily overcome existing soil layers, you need to use the following drills:
- Coil. Recommended for use on clay layers.
- Bit. Used to loosen hard soils.
- Sand spoons.
- Bailer. This device will help lift the soil to the surface.
It is best to go through the sand layer with a spoon, adding the required amount of water. If the ground is hard, a chisel should be used. This tool can be a cross or flat. Quicksand sands can be overcome using the impact method.
In the case of clay soil, you will need to use a coil and a bailer. The coil is able to easily pass through soils with clay because its design is similar to a spiral. Pebble layers containing gravel can be broken through with a bailer and chisel. In some cases, you will need to pour water into the hole. This way it will be possible to simplify the process of drilling a well.
If the rock that is delivered to the surface is wet, this means that an aquifer is nearby. In this case, you will need to go a little deeper to overcome the aquifer. It will be much easier to drill, but you can’t stop. Using a drill, you will need to find the waterproof layer.
Drilling a well for water is complex and difficult, but interesting and exciting work. And, today, the most affordable way to establish an independent water supply: at the current cost of drinking water the costs of independent drilling, equipment and well development pay off in less than a year. Unless, of course, you take a barrel to the river in a wheelbarrow, risking a serious accident with something that would make the doctors’ eyes widen over their masks.
The earth and the water in it are a complex natural system. That's why step by step instructions and there is no point in giving step-by-step instructions for drilling: anyway, in the depths, something will turn out to be wrong. However, miners have long learned to overcome almost any surprise in the underground world. And this article, based on this experience, provides the information necessary for a novice driller to ensure that, if not the first, then the second well with his own hands produces water in the required quantity of good quality.
Where to drill?
The general scheme of the formation of aquifers in nature is shown in Fig. Verkhovodka feeds mainly on sediments and lies within the range of approximately 0-10 m. High water can be suitable for drinking without deep treatment (boiling, filtration through shungite) only in individual cases and subject to regular testing of samples by sanitary authorities. Then, for technical purposes, the perched water is taken from a well; The well's flow rate in such conditions will be small and very unstable.
A water well is drilled independently into interstratal waters; highlighted in red in Fig. It is impossible to drill an artesian well that provides water of the best quality for a very long time, even if you have a detailed geological map of the area: the depth is usually more than 50 m and only in exceptional cases does the formation rise to 30 m. In addition, independent development and the extraction of artesian waters is categorically prohibited, to the point of criminal liability - this is a valuable natural resource.
Most often, it is possible to drill a well on your own into a gravity-fed formation.– sand soaked in water on a clay bed. Such wells are called sand wells, although they are free-flowing aquifer It can be gravelly, pebble, etc. Gravity waters lie approximately 5-20 m from the surface. The water from them is most often drinkable, but only based on the test results and after pumping the well, see below. The debit is small, 2 cubic meters. m/day is considered excellent, and fluctuates somewhat throughout the year. Sand filtering is required, which complicates the design and operation of the well, see below. The lack of pressure increases the requirements for the pump and the entire water supply system.
The pressure strata lie deeper, in the range of about 7-50 m. The aquifer in this case is dense water-resistant fractured rocks - loam, limestone - or loose, gravel-pebble deposits. The best quality water comes from limestone, and such wells last longer. Therefore, water supply wells from pressure layers are called limestone wells. The formation's own pressure can lift water almost to the surface, which greatly simplifies the construction of a well and the entire water supply system. The debit is large, up to 5 cubic meters. m/day, and stable. A sand filter is most often not needed. As a rule, the analysis of the first water sample passes with a bang.
Note: But how do you find out which layer is available and accessible in a given place? The methods for finding water for drilling a well are generally the same as for. IN Middle Zone RF free water can almost always be found within the first 20 meters of depth.
Important circumstances
First: Mass uncontrolled intake of free-flow water can lead to the so-called. soil suffusion, as a result of which soil failures suddenly and unpredictably occur, see Fig.
Second: The critical depth for self-drilling on flat terrain in the Russian Federation is 20 m. Deeper - the cost of a custom turnkey well is less than the direct and indirect costs of a self-drill. In addition, the failure rate is close to 100%
Third: The service life of a well greatly depends on the regularity of water intake from it. If you take water little by little as you use it, a well for sand will last about 15 years, and for limestone up to 50 years or more. If you periodically pump everything out at once or, conversely, take it sporadically, the well will dry up in 3-7 years. Repairing and restarting a well is so complicated and expensive that it’s easier to drill a new one. If this circumstance surprises you, keep in mind that it is not a pipe in the ground that is being repaired, but an aquifer.
Based on this, we can already advise: if you find free-flowing water no deeper than 12-15 m, do not rush to rejoice, it is better to drill as far as possible to reach the limestone. And it’s best not to be lazy and carry out exploratory drilling with a needle well, see below. It is possible to make an igloo well literally in a weekend; complex and expensive equipment is not required. And it can also be a temporary source of water supply until you decide on a permanent one in terms of time, money, etc.
Note: a water well is called an igloo (more details at the link). You can literally break through it from the basement of the house, as in the video below:
Video: Abyssinian well in the house
Well or well?
It is known that digging a well is immeasurably more difficult, complex and dangerous work than drilling a well, as is the fact that a properly equipped well is repairable. But there is also a fundamental difference between them. Water is drawn from the well as much as the earth will give, i.e. how much will flow from the formation. And the action of a well is similar to drawing blood from a donor’s vein. That is why the service life of wells is limited and they can catastrophically change the geology of the area. A well can provide water for decades and centuries, and a well made in rocky soil can provide water for millennia, without in any way affecting the local ecology and geology. Therefore, private water wells are drilled, with the goal of either building a collective artesian water supply system (artesian wells are durable and environmentally friendly), or, having mustered the courage and resources, to dig a well. At the same time, the water supply system of the house is being built completely, because... In general, she just needs pressure, except for some nuances, see below. And the abandoned well is plugged concrete mortar and the land around it is returned to farming.Types of wells
A borehole is a long, narrow cavity in rock called a borehole. When drilling, a drilling tool (a drill bit or simply a drill) is lowered into a shaft on a rigid assembly rod made of pipes (a drill string or drill rod) or a cable. A pipe or several concentric pipes are placed in the shaft - casing (case pipe, case string) - protecting the walls of the shaft from collapse and maintaining rock pressure. The casing can fit tightly in the barrel or with some gap - the annulus; it is filled with backfill or clay (clay castle) or poured with concrete. The lower end of the trunk can be open, plugged, or end in a stepped narrowing - the bottom. An intake device is made at the bottom or in the bottom of a production well for liquid minerals. The upper part of the casing is called the well head. A set of devices that make up the well arrangement is placed around the head or in it. Of the many well designs, most of all the types shown in Fig. pass independently; a more detailed diagram of the well with casing is shown there, pos. 5.
1 – needle hole. The drill rod, casing and drill string are one; the drill remains in the ground. They pass the needle hole using the impact method, see below. A core driver, a set of drilling tools, and other equipment for drilling wells with a separate casing for a needle well are not required, see fig. on right. The penetration speed reaches 2-3 m/hour, and the maximum depth achieved in this way is about 45 m. Needle wells are used for constructing Abyssinian wells, especially in the country. The output of the needle well is small, but in the summer it is quite stable. Its service life does not depend on the intensity and regularity of water intake, but it is unpredictable: there are Abyssinian wells that have been providing water for more than 100 years, but they can dry up in six months. The needle well cannot be repaired; it can only be drilled in not very dense and homogeneous soils. The maximum diameter of the drill rod when drilling without a copter is up to 120 mm, which is sufficient for a submersible pump with a caliber of 86 mm.
Note: when drilling an exploratory needle well, it is better to use a simple filter, on the left in Fig.
2 – imperfect well. She seems to be hanging in the seam. It does not require sophisticated knowledge of geology and drilling skills, but the flow rate is lower and the water quality is worse than the maximum possible for a given formation. The water quality can be maximized if the well below is plugged. In addition, perhaps the so-called. pulling the drilling tool and casing deep. Self-propelled wells are most often imperfect; most of further material concerns them. Wells in thick aquifers are also drilled imperfectly, because when deepened into the formation by 1.5-2 m, the debit stabilizes and almost does not grow deeper.
3 – perfect well. The casing rests on the roof of the underlying waterproof layer. The flow rate and quality of water are maximum, but to drill a perfect well, precise knowledge of local geology and the experience of the driller are necessary, otherwise, firstly, the casing may be pulled into the underlying formation if it is plastic. Secondly, when drilling, you can pierce the litter, and the water will go down; this is especially true in dry areas with thin layers. Thirdly, just one incorrectly drilled well can cause serious damage to the local ecology.
4 – well with bottom. It can be either perfect or imperfect. The bottomhole makes it easier to maintain the well and makes it repairable to some extent, but experienced drillers must drill a bottomhole well according to the local geology.
Note: in some sources the bottom of the well is called a sump. This is also incorrect in German; the bottom of a well and the sump of a well are completely different things.
Drilling methods
You can drill wells yourself in the following ways:
- Rotary, or rotary - the drill bit rotates, biting into the rock;
- Impact - they hit the drill rod, deepening the drill bit into the rock, this is how needle holes are drilled;
- Impact-rotational - the rod with the drilling tool is raised several times and lowered with force, loosening the rock, and then rotated, taking it into the cavity of the tool, see below;
- Rope-impact - a special drilling tool is raised and lowered on a rope, taking away the rock.
All these methods relate to dry drilling. When hydrodrilling, the working process occurs in a layer of water or a special drilling fluid that increases the compliance of the rock. Hydrodrilling is not environmentally friendly, requires expensive special equipment and high water consumption. In amateur conditions, it is used in exceptional cases, in an extremely simplified and limited form, see below.
Dry drilling, except for impact drilling without casing, can only be intermittent, i.e. the drill has to be lowered into the trunk, then removed from it in order to select the rock from the drill. In professional hydraulic drilling, crushed rock is removed with spent drilling fluid, but an amateur needs to know for sure: it is impossible to drill a shaft to a depth greater than the length of the working part of the tool in one drilling cycle. Even if you drill with an auger (see below), you need to lift it and shake out the rock from the turns after a maximum of 1-1.5 m of penetration, otherwise the expensive tool will have to be given to the ground.
Casing installation
The attentive reader may already have a question: how do they install casing in the barrel? Or how do they raise/lower the drill, which, in theory, should be wider than it? In professional drilling - different ways. The oldest is illustrated in Fig. on the right: the axis of rotation of the tool is shifted relative to its longitudinal axis (circled in red), and the cutting part is made asymmetrical. The neck of the drill is made conical. All this, of course, is carefully calculated. Then, in operation, the drill describes a circle extending beyond the casing, and when lifted, its neck slides along its edge and the drill slips into the pipe. This requires powerful, precise drive of the drill string and its reliable centering in the casing. As the casing deepens, it is built up from above. Complex special equipment is not available to amateurs, so they can install casing pipes in the following ways:
- They drill a “bare” trunk without casing to full depth with a drill of a larger diameter than the casing pipe, and then lower the casing pipes into it. To prevent the entire column from falling down, they use 2 drill gates: one holds the pipe that has already gone into the well, see fig. on the right, and the second one is installed on the new one before removing the first one. Only then is the column pushed into the trunk if it no longer moves. This method is often used by amateurs on fairly dense, adhesive (sticky) and cohesive (not loose) soils to a depth of 10 m, but there are no statistics on how many wells collapsed, how many drills and casing were lost.
- The drill is taken with a smaller diameter, and the lower casing is made with diverging sharpened teeth (crown) or equipped with a cutting skirt. Having drilled for 1 cycle, the drill is filled, and the pipe is forced to settle; a crown or skirt cuts off excess soil. This method slows down drilling, because before starting a new cycle, you need to use a bailer (see below) to select the crumbled soil, but it is more reliable, makes it easier to fill the annulus with gravel and allows you to use an external sand filter, see below.
Drilling tool
Now let's see which drill to drill into which soil and in what way, see fig. on right:
The cutting edges of all drills are made of hardened steel. Drawings of a homemade drill-glass, an analogue of a spoon drill (the cutting blades are installed by a propeller at an angle of 3-10 degrees) and a diagram of the bailer are shown in the following. rice. on right. The outer diameters of all these drills can be changed depending on the caliber of the well.
How do they drill?
Mobile drilling rigs that allow you to drill directly from the ground, like the one in Fig. left,
Unfortunately, they are not available for rent: their management requires professional training, and the very fact of ownership, albeit temporary, requires a license for drilling operations. Therefore, we will have to start the old fashioned way, in the Gorshchitsky way - with a homemade copra, unless the woman beats the needle well.
Koper
The simplest pile driver is a tripod made of logs or steel pipes in the form of an equilateral triangular pyramid - a tetrahedron, pos. 1 in Fig. below. This design is very strong and rigid minimum consumption material. The height of a tetrahedron is equal to 0.8165 of the length of its edge, i.e. from ordinary 6-m logs, taking into account the depth of the pile driver's legs into the ground, a tripod with a height of about 4.5 m will be obtained, which will allow the use of casing pipe bends up to 3 m in length. In general, the height of the piledriver is taken 1.2-1.5 m above the maximum length of what will be lowered into the trunk.
The legs of the piledriver can be fastened together with a frame made of the same logs/pipes to prevent them from moving, but in order to save material, you can also dig 0.7-0.8 m into the ground, placing a piece of log about 1 m long horizontally under the heel of each - a bed. Assembling the copra tent on the ground, pos. 3, the legs are simultaneously (three or six of them) inserted into the pits with the beds and the soil is poured back, compacting it tightly.
Note: strengthening the legs of a piledriver directly on the ground with crowbars or steel rods driven in from the outside is extremely dangerous!
The pile driver is equipped with a lifting and drilling gate (pos. 1 and 2), a block with a hook (pos. 1, 2, 4) and a rocking lever for lifting the drill, cable-impact drilling, setting casing pipes and working with a bailer, pos. 2. The block hook and drills that have an eye (a ring for fastening the rope) are tied with an anchor knot (it is also called a fishing bayonet, pos. 1 in the figure on the right), and long loads are tied with a cargo knot, pos. 2 there.
Shurf
Having installed the pile driver, a hook with a compact weight (a sledgehammer, for example) is lowered to the ground, this is where the trunk will begin. Around this point they dig (hammer) a hole measuring approximately 1.5 x 1.5 x 1.5 m. In the hole, they also mark the starting point and drill the first 3-4 m with an auger, constantly checking its verticality. This is an extremely important operation; the fate of the entire well depends on the first meters! Further, if drilling is to a depth of more than 7 m, it is highly desirable to install a conductor - a pipe with a diameter larger than the diameter of the annulus of the wellbore. The conductor is carefully aligned to the vertical and concreted.
Note: Attention! When choosing the dimensions of the well, drills and pipes, tie them to the caliber of the submersible pump! The gap between its body and the nearest wall must be at least 7 mm or according to the specifications for the unit. The most common caliber of household submersible pumps is 86 mm.
Prokhodka
Methods of drilling with different projectiles on different soils described above. Problems can arise, in addition to boulders, with dense dry clay, this is a very harmful rock. You can deal with it in different ways, for example, as shown here:
Video: drilling water wells in dense clay
In general, rotary-percussion or cable-percussion hydraulic drilling is used to penetrate dense clay, see figure on the right. There is no need to pump water that is not yet available. You can simply pour several buckets into the casing, wait half an hour or less, and try which one takes better - a glass or a spoon. You don’t have to try it with an auger, the clay will take it.
Casing and column
The drill string is assembled from steel pipes with a diameter of about 80 mm and walls with a thickness of 4 mm. Whether you take ready-made drill elbows or make them yourself, pay attention to the connection method. For manual drilling Only connections with bayonet couplings are suitable! Threaded and locking ones of any kind are not suitable: the bar will inevitably have to be turned at some point reverse side and the rod will unscrew and the lock will come apart during any type of impact drilling.
During the drilling process, as already mentioned, casing pipes are also installed. Nowadays, even in professional drilling to shallow depths, plastic casings have become practically no alternative, but you need to take special casings:
- Lightweight, you can move it alone.
- Withstand forced settlement and soil pressure with a force of up to 5 tf.
- They practically do not slow down the internal filter, see below, when installing it.
- They do not corrode or spoil water throughout their service life, up to 50 years.
The only thing that plastic casing is afraid of is damage from the inside by the drill rod. Therefore, it is advisable to use drill pipe centralizers, see fig. on the right, 1 for every 3-5 m of the rod. The cheapest ones are steel spring ones, they are quite suitable. As for the complex ones with turbulators, etc., they are for professional hydraulic drilling.
Sprinkling
As the casing deepens into the barrel, it is necessary to add fine gravel into the annulus. Gravel filling of a water well will greatly speed up its pumping and extend its service life. And a sand well without backfill may turn out to be completely inoperable.
There is water!
The achievement of the aquifer by a needle well is judged by the increase in the rate of penetration, and the presence of water is checked with a snare - a piece of steel pipe welded at one end and lowered into the well on a cord. With other wells it is simpler: as the drill once again brought out wet soil, it means there is water. It remains to be decided whether it is necessary to go deeper. To do this, centrifugal submersible pump(the vibration pump will immediately clog in such slurry) pump out several buckets. If the water in the 5th bucket has not noticeably brightened, you need to go deeper another 0.5 m (1 drilling cycle) and check again. If you have already gone 2 m deep, but the sample is still the same - that’s it, there will be no more debit, and you will have to put up with a long buildup. Also, if the rate of penetration suddenly drops (and it is very difficult for an inexperienced driller to detect it using any drilling method other than rotary), then drilling is stopped immediately - we are at the bottom of the formation, the well will be perfect.
Note: When drilling stops or is interrupted, the rod with the drill must be removed, otherwise it will be pulled into the ground.
Rocking up
A drilled well will not yet provide water in the required quantity and quality. To do this, it is necessary to either open the aquifer or pump the well. Opening up the formation allows you to get drinking water within 24 hours. It requires large quantity clean water, complex and expensive equipment. Please note: autopsy is carried out using direct and reverse methods. In direct drilling, water is pumped under pressure into the casing and drilling fluid is pumped out of the annulus. At return water fed by gravity “behind the pipe” and the solution is pumped out of the barrel. Direct opening is faster, but it disrupts the structure of the formation more strongly and the well lasts less. The opposite is the opposite. Keep this in mind when negotiating with drillers if you order a well.
Bore pumping takes several days, but can be done with an ordinary household submersible centrifugal pump; vibration is not suitable for the reasons stated above. To pump, first remove silt from the well using a bailer; You can see how to use a bailer in the video below:
Video: cleaning (swinging) a well with a homemade bailer
The rest is not difficult: the water is completely pumped out every time there is enough of it to cover the pump. It is useful to raise and lower it on the cable rope several times before turning it on to stir up the residual sludge. The swing can be done with a manner, but scooping will take a lot of work, and it will take about two weeks.
Note: as the rocking progresses, the gravel backfill will settle; it must be replenished by adding more.
The pumping of the well is considered complete when the transparency of the water rises to 70 cm. It is checked with a white enamel or earthenware disk with a diameter of 15 cm (saucer, saucepan lid) in an opaque vessel, for example. clean barrel. When the edges of the disk begin to blur during immersion, stop, it’s already opaque. You need to look at the disk strictly vertically. Once transparency is achieved, the water sample is submitted for analysis and, if everything is OK, the annulus is concreted or closed with clay, and a filter is installed.
Filter
A well filter is the main device that ensures the quality of water from it. And at the same time, it is the component most susceptible to wear, so the choice of a well filter must be taken with full responsibility.
Artesian water is taken without filtration. For a well on limestone, most often a simple lattice filter in the form of perforation on the lower bend of the casing is sufficient; it will also serve as the basis for a sand well filter. The perforation requirements are:
- The diameter of the holes is 15-20 mm, up to 30 mm depending on the ground.
- The filter duty cycle (the ratio of the total area of the holes to the surface area they occupy) is 0.25-0.30, for which the distance between the centers of the holes is taken to be 2-3 times greater than their diameter.
- The location of the holes is in transverse rows in a checkerboard pattern.
- The total area of all holes is not less than the cross-sectional area of the casing pipe lumen.
For a sand well, firstly, gravel backfill is necessary; in this case, it is precisely this that ensures long-term water quality, as in a well. In view of this, well filters with a layer of gravel included in the design are available for sale. There is no harm in them, but the wellbore needs a larger diameter, which makes drilling difficult, and without external backfilling, the well still quickly silts up.
Further, if you follow the flow of water, there is the same perforated pipe, but now it will load-bearing element, which absorbs rock pressure. To prevent sand, which gravel does not retain well, from spoiling the entire water supply tract, you also need a sand filter. It can be external or external (on the left in the figure) or internal (on the right in the same place). External filters have three advantages: minimal diameter and siltation of the well and pump installation depth. But they are easily damaged during casing installation, are unrepairable and expensive, because... due to the latter circumstance, they must be made of very high-quality materials: alloys for the mesh and wire of external well filters are more expensive than silver.
When installing a pump in a well with an internal filter, its bottom is considered to be its upper edge, so the volume of one-time water withdrawal is seriously reduced. The problem with all internal filters is increased silting of the well due to water seeping into the gap between the filter and the casing. Also, as a result, the service life of the filter is reduced, and pump wear increases, because sand gets into it. Often, therefore, the pump is placed in a separate pipe mounted on the outlet of the filter, which again requires an increase in the diameter of the well.
The best option is to connect the pump directly to the filter outlet, then both silting and sanding will stop. But for this you need centrifugal pump with an intake pipe on the bottom, which makes it much more complicated and expensive, and the vibration pressure is often low for sand wells.
The filter elements of sand filters are sometimes made independently from PVC pipes, stainless springs and polymer mesh, see fig. on the left, but they filter poorly and do not last long. It’s better to take a good store-bought filter; its operating conditions are too difficult, and taking it out, as they say, is quite a task. In this case, there are basically 3 options, see fig:
- Polymer stacked ring filter. Cheaper than others, but lasts less and is prone to silting, but it is repairable: you can lift it and sort it out, replacing bad rings. Requires an increased well diameter;
- Tubular-wire with a winding of profiled wire. A little more expensive than polymer, but it lasts a long time and does not silt. Repairs do not require a bulkhead; just wash the top. It would be optimal if not for one “but”: cases of fraud by manufacturers, traders, and drillers have been repeatedly noted - how completely stainless filters are supplied, in which the longitudinal rods are made of ordinary galvanized wire. It is impossible to check without breaking the filter, but harmful impurities soon appear in the water, and then the rods completely rust, the winding slips, and the entire filter has to be replaced.
- Support-free welded filters, wire and slotted. They would be ideal (the latter can withstand settling into the barrel from the outside on the pipe), if not for the price: they are made from the same profiled stainless wire that costs about the same as silver.
Arrangement and automation
To supply water to the house, a well must be equipped and mutually coordinated with the water supply. Construction of a water supply well in last years has undergone radical changes. The traditional scheme (see figure on the right) is a caisson, concrete or steel, or a stone pit, which requires a large amount of additional earthworks and useful land area for yourself is becoming a thing of the past. Nowadays, water wells are increasingly equipped with well adapters, see fig. below. Installing the adapter is quite a painstaking task, but it is incomparable with a caisson-pit sweep:
- As soon as the water begins to flow, they judge by the speed of its clearing how much further it is possible to go deeper, and cut the last casing pipe to size from above.
- Before installing it, make a trench to the house to a depth greater than the standard depth of soil freezing.
- A hole for the adapter is drilled in the pipe in advance and installed, plugging the pipes. If you place it directly in a well, it may gurgle there.
- They place the pipe and drill further, orienting the outlet of the adapter into the trench at a depth greater than the freezing depth.
- They rock the well, install the filter, lower the pump, connect the pump supply pipe and the transit pipe to the house to the adapter fittings, and lay the pump cable.
- They put the well cap on, when the water has flowed into the tank, fill up the trench - that’s it.
Water supply to a private house from a well has its own characteristics, but they will not prevent you from later connecting to a collective water supply or drinking water from a well. You won’t have to redo anything, it will only be more reliable.
First, you need a pressure storage tank. The flow rate of a non-artesian well may, for unknown reasons, drop until it stops completely, and then the water flows again as if nothing had happened. Secondly, downstream of the tank along the water flow you need at least a 2-stage membrane filter. In public water supply systems, water quality is continuously monitored, which is not the case at home. What if there is a man-made accident or an unauthorized discharge of pollution somewhere in the reservoir’s recharge zone? Everyone has already forgotten when it was, but bad water just approached the well.
Finally, the home water supply must comply with the principle of gradual, uniform water withdrawal, which was discussed at the beginning. Cooperating with neighbors, as when building a common septic tank, is not the best solution in this case. Suddenly there won’t be enough debit for everyone, instead of the community there will be squabbles. Those. we need automation that turns on the booster pump as soon as someone somewhere opens a tap.
There are 2 options here. The first is a pressure tank with a float valve in a warm attic. All automation consists of a rod that passes in a sleeve through the tank cover and rests on the float lever, and a 6-10 A microswitch (micrik) with normally closed contacts in the pump power supply circuit. While the tank is full, the rod presses on the microphone lever, the pump is de-energized. As soon as water began to flow into the house, the rod dropped, the microphone went off, and the pump started pumping.
However, firstly, you need to insulate the attic, which costs a lot of work and money. The second is a pump, it will require an extra 4-5 meters of pressure, and for a 2-story house, all 8-9, so the pump turns out to be expensive. Thirdly, a leak in the tank or a malfunction of the float will at least lead to the ceiling getting wet. Therefore, modern automation for water supply wells, controlled by a microcontroller that monitors flow rate, water pressure and the frequency of turning on the pump, is still cheaper and more reliable. House plumbing is then carried out with a sealed membrane storage tank in the basement.
Afterword
The drilling masters who once developed Tyumen and Urengoy are still alive. There were no geophysical equipment that built a 3D picture of what was in the ground on a computer display, and there were no fully robotic drilling rigs at that time, but they already saw through the earth with their intuition, experience and were on friendly terms with all the spirits of the subsoil. And the then ministers and members of the Politburo, who had more arrogance than the old Testament boyars and appanage princes, addressed these aces as “you” by name and patronymic and respectfully shook their hands.
So, any of the old bison drillers have failed wells, which they are not ashamed of - that’s how they work. What then should we say to beginners who act independently? Don't be discouraged by failure; suddenly the first well turns out to be empty, or collapses, or the drill gets stuck. Not without that in the drilling business. But frustration and disappointment will instantly subside under the powerful pressure of, as they say now, positivity, as soon as your well produces water.
Any estate, be it country house or a private house must be provided with water. Without life-giving moisture, they cannot grow, delighting the eye with lush flowering, or fully bear fruit. cultivated plants. Do-it-yourself water well, despite the seeming enormity of the process, is a very real possibility of extracting water, which can be done independently without the use of heavy drilling equipment. There are several drilling methods that are quite simple to implement and do not require the use of expensive equipment or significant effort.
Water can be produced by using different technologies. The main types of water wells used to extract life-giving moisture:
- Construction of a well, which, in the presence of a good spring, fills quickly and, being an excellent water storage device, can hold up to 2 cubic meters of water;
- A sand filter well, which is a pipe d=100 mm, immersed using an auger to a depth of 20-30 meters. A stainless mesh is attached to the recessed end of the pipe, which acts as a filter, being immersed in coarse sand. Well depth is 10-50 meters, service life is 5-15 years.
- A filterless artesian well used to extract water from porous limestone rock layers. The depth of the well is 20-100 meters, the service life is about 50 years.
The exact depth of the water well cannot be determined in advance. Approximately, this will be the same depth as a similar well drilled in neighboring areas, or a nearby well. Since deviations are possible due to uneven occurrence of soil layers, casing pipes should be purchased based on the parameters of the water supply sources already installed on the site, but taking into account minor adjustments.
The design of the water well is a kind of narrow well
The service life of wells directly depends on the intensity of use: the more often you use the structure, the longer it will last
Drilling a well manually
To perform the work, you need the drill itself, a drilling rig, a winch, rods and casing pipes. A drilling tower is necessary when digging a deep well; with the help of this design, the drill with rods is immersed and lifted.
The easiest way to drill a water well is rotary, which is done by rotating the drill
When drilling shallow wells, the drill string can be removed manually, without using a tower at all. Drill rods can be made of pipes; the products are connected using keys or threads. The lowest rod is additionally equipped with a drill.
The cutting attachments are made of 3 mm sheet steel. When sharpening the edges of the attachments, it should be taken into account that when the drill mechanism rotates, they should cut into the soil clockwise.
Drilling technology, familiar to most owners of personal plots, is also applicable for constructing a water well
The tower is installed above the drilling site; its height should exceed the height of the drill rod in order to facilitate the removal of the rod when lifting. Then a guide recess for the drill is dug onto two bayonets of the shovel. The first turns of rotation of the drill can be completed by one person, but as the pipe sinks, additional assistance will be required. If the drill does not come out the first time, you should turn it counterclockwise and try again.
As the drill goes deeper, it becomes more difficult to rotate the pipe. Softening the soil with water will help make the work easier. As the drill moves downwards, every half a meter the drilling structure should be brought to the surface and freed from the soil. The drilling cycle is repeated again. At the stage when the tool handle is level with the ground, the structure is extended with an additional elbow.
Since lifting and cleaning the drill takes a significant part of the time, you should make maximum use of the design's capabilities, capturing and extracting to the surface the maximum possible portion of the soil layer.
When working on loose soils, additional casing pipes should be installed in the well to prevent soil from falling off the walls of the hole and blocking the well.
Drilling continues until it enters the aquifer, which is easily determined by the condition of the soil being removed. Passing the aquifer, the drill dives even deeper until it reaches the next aquifer - the aquifer. Immersion to the level of the waterproof layer will ensure maximum water flow into the well. It is important to note that manual drilling is only applicable for diving to the first aquifer, the depth of which does not exceed 10-20 meters.
Can be used for pumping dirty water hand pump or a submersible pump. After two or three buckets of dirty water, the aquifer is washed out and usually appears pure water. If this does not happen, the well should be deepened another 1-2 meters.
Can also be used manual method drilling, based on the use of a conventional drill and hydraulic pump:
More details about manual drilling.
Rope Impact Drilling Technology
The essence of this method of making a water well with your own hands is that the rock is broken using a driving glass - a heavy tool falling from the height of an equipped tower.
To carry out the work, you need a homemade drilling rig, as well as tools for using the shock-rope method and extracting soil from the well.
A well tower, which looks like an ordinary tripod, can be made of either steel pipes or ordinary wooden logs. The dimensions of the structure must be proportional to the dimensions of the downhole tool.
The optimal ratio is the height of the tower, which exceeds the length of the downhole glass by one and a half meters
The process consists of alternately lowering the driving nozzle, which breaks and captures the rock, and raising it to the surface with the captured blade of the drilling tool.
To equip the drilling rig, you can use a steel pipe, the end of which is equipped with a cutting device. The cutting edge, resembling half a turn of an auger in appearance, will be in direct contact with the bottom. Half a meter from the edge, a hole must be made in the steel pipe through which the extracted soil can be removed by emptying the drill bit. A cable is attached to the top of the glass, which will be used to lower the glass and remove its contents to the surface. The glass should be freed from the ground as the structure deepens every half meter.
Here is a video example of conducting exploration drilling in this way:
The nuances of installing casing pipes
A do-it-yourself water well dug requires additional casing, which can be made from either a solid asbestos-cement pipe or individual sections of asbestos pipes. When working with cuts Special attention is given equal to the diameter of the pipes in order to ensure subsequent unhindered immersion of the entire structure. Each pipe link is kept from slipping and secured with brackets, which are then hidden under strips of of stainless steel.
A do-it-yourself water well can also be “lined” with steel or plastic pipes
Pipe casing is required:
- to prevent walls from collapsing during drilling;
- to prevent clogging of the well during operation;
- to cover the upper aquifers with poor water.
A pipe with a filter made of a fine mesh that does not allow grains of sand to pass through is lowered to the bottom of the well and provides water filtration. The pipe, lowered to the required depth, is secured with a clamp. This will prevent spontaneous subsidence.
When properly constructing a water well, the above-ground part of the structure is covered with a caisson - a cap that protects the source from contamination.
The head is a tank with a closing hatch with a hole diameter that allows easy access to the water intake well
Over time, the effect of a slight “squeezing” of the pipe from the soil may be observed. Natural process spontaneous lifting of the pipe to the ground surface does not require additional measures for deepening.
Video example of well construction
A country house or dacha is the true dream of an esthete and all those who are tired of noisy cities and the endless rush for achievements. Comfort, a special atmosphere and tranquility at any time of the day or season, what could be better? Arranging your own country retreat begins with renovation work in the house and ends with the installation of autonomous systems - sewerage, drainage and access to drinking water. It is possible to obtain the water necessary for cooking and household needs in several ways, the most optimal of which to this day is the installation of a personal well on the site.
Drilling a well can be done manually
Creating such a system is a labor-intensive and tricky process, but in fact, with the right systematic approach to all stages of work, in a matter of days a source of clean and healthy water. Drilling wells manually or with the help of experienced specialists - the choice is yours, in any case, whichever method you like, with proper preparation - you will be able to provide your own family with everything necessary for country houses resources.
Types and designs of water wells
The experience of ancestors and modern technologies. Wells for the extraction of drinking water are not a new thing; they are devices and designs that have been popular for many years. Wells of this type differ in filling methods, and are divided into:
- spring;
- filtered;
- artesian;
- combined.
Capacious wells, fed from springs, quickly fill with water and do not depend on external factors or the environment. Water from underground sources is not only tasty, but also healthy (rich in minerals). Wells with filtration are a pipe (with a diameter of 5 to 10 centimeters) that is immersed thirty meters underground. For the filter in such systems, sand is used, laid in bulk on a stainless mesh. With a deeper depth of the pipe, the life of the well is on average ten years, and with proper care 15-20.
Artesian wells are an alternative option when it comes to limestone soil; it is under its layers that healing springs flow. In addition, this type of well lasts longer than others - up to fifty years, the depth of the pipe is immersed underground up to one hundred meters.
Manual drilling of water wells is carried out according to preliminary measurements, but the exact depth is determined only during the installation of a pipe or filter. Even if a similar water source is shallow in a neighboring area, it is not at all a fact that your soil deposits are identical to those of your neighbors. When purchasing parts for wells, it is best to take pipes and meshes with a reserve. Drilling water wells manually requires careful preparatory work.
Drilling wells on your own
How to drill a well manually and what is needed for this? For basic drilling work, you will need a standard set of tools: a drill (you can use a garden drill), a drilling tower, winches and all kinds of pipes. To dig deep wells, you can’t do without a tower (it carries out the process of lifting a drill equipped with rods).
You can use a garden auger to drill a well.
In cases where there is only a need for a superficial (shallow) hole, the tower can be easily replaced with columns made from scrap materials. You can build a drill rod yourself by threading several ordinary pipes together. The attachments, which in motion perform the main task assigned to the drill, are made of high-strength steel. Correct operation of the drill is possible only with correct device nozzles rotating (mandatory) clockwise.
About the tower, it is not difficult to choose such a tool, but it is necessary that its length exceeds the height of the drill. Before drilling, the tower is mounted above the site of the future well.
Next, two or three holes are dug exactly in the center - this will serve as the entrance for the pipe. At first, digging with a drill is easy, and one person can handle such work, but the deeper the well is planted, the more effort is required from the blades. If the drill is firmly immersed in the soil and it becomes difficult to lift it, just turn it counterclockwise and sharply pull it up. When passing through dense layers of soil, the drilling system is controlled by several workers at once. As the drill is lowered, the pressure on its blades increases, and systematic braking occurs in the work. Craftsmen recommend using a little trick - softening the soil with plain water.
After passing a depth of half a meter or a meter, the drill rises to the top, and its blades are cleared of soil lumps.
Having reached the horizon level (the drill handle is level with the ground), an auxiliary elbow is attached to the structure. Drilling water wells with your own hands is a labor-intensive and time-consuming process, so if possible, help the system work more efficiently - clean upper layer drill, dig under the entrance of the structure into the ground.
As soon as the drill touches the aquifer, the work stops. A sign that you have reached a water source will be moistened soil on the drill blades. Afterwards, the system sinks again and continues to pave the way to the next layer of soil - the persistent one (this ensures maximum water pressure through the well).
Drilling an independent well with deep sources has a limit of twenty meters, otherwise special equipment and tools are required. The resulting dirty water pumped out with a pump (any type you can find at home). After thirty or forty liters of cloudy liquid (removed from the pipe), the vein is washed until clean water appears. In case of problems, the wells are deepened by an average of two to three meters (maximum 5 m).
For self-drilling, a home drill and pump are suitable.
Alternative methods of drilling wells for country houses
You can install a well on your site different ways, but you need to choose a drilling method that suits your costs and capabilities. Rope impact technology involves processes where rock is broken using a hammer. From an installed tower (5 m and above), a heavy tool falls down, forcefully breaking impenetrable stones or materials of various origins. Wells obtained using this method will serve you for many years, and the water entering the house will always be clean and tasty.
Steel pipes are used to make towers
For work on rope-impact technology Homemade towers and special tools that can effectively extract soil from a well will do. To make towers from scrap materials, use steel pipes or wooden logs. The dimensions of the face system must match the dimensions of the tower (if 5 meters, a glass for driving, and a steel pipe 5 meters high). The principle of operation of such a device is the alternating blows of the glass and the capture of unnecessary soil.
Can serve as a drilling rig strong pipe with a cutting end (an element in contact with the face). A hole in the pipe, made in advance, will serve as a channel for the waste of excess soil. A cable is connected to the driving glass, thanks to which raising and lowering the device does not take much effort and time. Each half-meter mark, the glass is cleaned and freed - this important condition For efficient work drilling rig.
Casing
The drilled entrance to the well requires additional casing. It is organized using a pipe (solid) or parts of asbestos metal cuts. All pipes, the main structure of the well and its components must match in diameter, otherwise water will not flow to the surface of the well (the structure will not be completely submerged).
The brackets ensure the integrity of all parts of the well (to avoid slipping or displacement). Stainless steel strips are attached on top - a protective layer for the durability of the well.
The casing around the pipe prevents the walls from collapsing during the drilling process and prevents the well from clogging ( clean well– health of residents country house) and covers those layers of underground sources where the water is dirty and harmful.
When installing a well, it is worth remembering about filters, because they guarantee the quality of the water entering your home. There is a huge difference in how long the wells will last - 1 year, 2 or 5. The painstaking work of installing a well must pay off, so saving time and money on installing a primitive filter is unwise.
After checking the integrity of the pipe, filter and other devices, the well is secured with a so-called clamp (due to which the system will not sag). The top of the well is covered with special caps, so the structure is protected from external pollution and influences. Over time, the buried pipe may rise slightly above ground level, but there is no need to be afraid of this. Raising a well is a natural and inevitable process that occurs in any case.
Wells on plot of land, near a country house or cottage, there are universal opportunities to use clean and healthy water for cooking or watering your own garden. Underground springs are mineral-rich gifts from nature that you can enjoy all year round, and the time and money spent on installing a well will soon pay off handsomely. Autonomous systems will provide any home with water, heat and comfort, which will not depend on public utilities.
Unfortunately, not all areas have water supply. Owners of such real estate have to choose an uncomfortable life “without amenities” or manually drill water wells. This method can be considered the cheapest and most common way of arranging a source for autonomous water supply. Specialists are usually invited to carry out the work, but if desired, you can do it yourself. Today we will look at how to drill a well with our own hands and what methods exist.
Self-drilling methods
Screw method
A very common drilling method, most often used for developing shallow wells. Its essence is that with the help of auger blades the soil is destroyed and brought to the surface. There are two technologies for such drilling. For the first, a screw is used, the blades of which are welded to the base at right angles. During operation, the blades cut the soil at an angle of 90°, after which it is crushed and transported upward. The main disadvantage of the method: part of the soil falls into the well and needs to be removed to the surface.
The blades of the auger tool that destroy the soil can be welded to the axis at different angles, depending on the drilling technology this fact does not affect. In any case, auger drilling resembles the twisting of a “corkscrew” with the sequential lifting of the destroyed rock
The second technology is more convenient. In this case, a screw with blades is used, which are welded to the pipe at an angle of 30-70°. The device cuts the soil and, without crushing it, transports it to the surface.
The advantage of the method is that nothing gets inside the well. On an industrial drilling rig, it is necessary to supply flushing fluid, most often water, into the workings. A jet pumped into the casing pipes washes the dump to the surface. In the process of manual well drilling, pumping is unlikely to be used. However, professionals recommend the use of flushing fluid, which greatly facilitates the drilling process.
Core drilling
When using this method, drilling is carried out using a special tool, which is a pipe, at the end of which there is a core bit with sharp cutters made of durable metal. Super-hard rocks are first broken up with a chisel, then drilled using a crown and the slurry that has clogged up in the core pipe is lifted.
The crown, rotating together with the pipe, goes deep into the ground, forming a well of the corresponding diameter. The sludge collects inside the projectile and rises with it to the surface. The blows of a heavy sledgehammer are used to free the hollow “glass” from the rock. In the process of drilling a well with your own hands, either clean water or mixed with clay must be supplied inside the projectile. This strengthens the walls of the well and prevents them from collapsing.
Core bits can be of various types; their choice depends on the physical and mechanical characteristics of the rock in which the well is to be drilled
In its upper part, the core pipe is equipped with fastening devices onto which rods are attached. This way the required drilling depth is achieved. The build-up occurs in stages. After the first section of the pipe has been buried, a new rod is attached to it, the length of which is from 1.2 to 1.5 m. Then the steps are repeated. Thus, a technological column is formed from the projectile and rods. It is very important that the glass and pipes are connected to each other as firmly as possible. There should be no noticeable play or unwanted movements at their attachment points.
Shock-rope method
A heavy drilling tool is raised to a height of 2 meters and forcefully lowered onto the drilling site. It breaks the rock and grabs it with a cutting and gripping device located on the lower edge of the pipe. It's called a bailer and can be the most different types, depending on the soil type.
To facilitate the drilling process, a clay mixture or water is poured into the well, which is later scooped out using a special device made in the form of a bucket.
Diagram of a bailer with a ball valve, one of the types of tools specially designed for working with soft and loose soil
The shock-rope method involves the use of a tripod. It is being built above the drilling site. The height of the device is about two meters. A block is mounted on the top of the equipment through which the cable is thrown. A bailer is firmly attached to its end. The tool is raised to the surface of the earth and lowered into the well using a cable. The bailer is cleaned of sludge through a technological hole located half a meter from its lower edge.
Some craftsmen claim that they know how to manually drill a well, which does not require erecting a tripod at all. Long-term practice shows that this is only possible for depths less than 10 m and will require excessive physical effort from builders.
You can learn more about the technology of drilling water-bearing wells from the following material:
Impact-rotational method
The method is very similar to the previous drilling method. The main difference: it performs rotational and impact movements at once. Thus, the forces applied to the projectile increase and the drilling process accelerates. The soil, knocked out with a bailer, is transported to the surface using a special bucket. The method is considered the best for constructing a well in rocky hard soils.
To facilitate the drilling process, a homemade tripod is used - a design that makes removing the drill from the well much simpler and easier
It should be noted that the least effective of all methods is the auger method. However, it is the simplest, which is why it is most often chosen when you are going to drill a well yourself. However, the choice of drilling method also depends on the composition of the soil on the site. The auger method is most often useless on hard soils, and the use of impact-rotary method is impractical on soft soils. Thus, before you start drilling, you should definitely find out the composition of the soil in the area.
The following material will help to pump up the well after drilling:
Drilling a well using an ice auger
There is a drilling method that will require minimal financial investment. This is manual drilling of wells using an ice drill. The tool is used as a drill, and homemade rods are used to build it up.
The knife of the ice ax will serve as an auger, and steel pipes with a diameter of up to 25 mm can be used as extension rods. To make the process go faster, reinforced cutters are welded to the winding edges of the improvised auger
Among other things, the work will require casing pipes to form the wellbore, a shovel and a device for removing cuttings from the site.
Drilling with an auger made from an ice drill includes the following operations:
- Preparation. We dig a guide hole: a hole two bayonets deep.
- We lower the drill into the resulting recess and begin to screw it into the ground, using the rule for tightening the screws. It should be remembered that after every three or four revolutions the tool is removed to the surface and cleaned.
- After the first meter has been penetrated in depth, we begin the formation of the trunk. To do this, a casing pipe is lowered into the well; its diameter should be several larger diameter borax. It is best to choose lightweight plastic parts equipped with threads for connection.
- When the drilling tool begins to descend into the face to its full height, we attach an extension rod to it. This can be done in two ways: screw the part if there is a thread, or add it using a steel pin-rod if there is none.
- During the work, we continue to form the casing string. As soon as about 10-15 cm of pipe remains on the surface, we attach the next one to it. The connection must be strong. This is usually done by threading or soldering.
- We periodically check the verticality of the trunk. If the drill begins to hit the walls of the casing, we level the structure using wooden wedges. They get stuck between the soil and the casing.
- After water appeared in the well and the decision was made to stop work, we install a filter and carefully fill the gap between the soil and the casing with gravel.
The casing can be installed after completion of drilling work. In this case plastic pipes inserted into the well and connected in series after the previous part is lowered down. This is not the most rational way, since you will have to clean the face of sludge again.
Plastic pipes are very light, quite durable and inexpensive, so they are most often chosen for constructing a well casing
Experience shows that drilling a well with your own hands is quite possible, although quite labor-intensive. You should take the matter seriously: choose the right drilling method, select the necessary materials, study the instructions and then get to work. The result of your efforts will be clean water from your own well on the site.
