How to install PVC windows in a wooden house yourself: step-by-step instructions. Is it possible to replace old windows with plastic ones in a wooden house? Features of installation Window block in a wooden house

It is known that wooden windows in houses built from timber are rightfully considered the safest and most practical solution, favorably affecting the microclimate in the home.

The fundamental thing in the presented case is that when it shrinks, the window system and walls behave uniformly. Their installation according to technology plays a decisive role here.

Features of installing windows in a wooden house

The assembly of windows in a timber building has certain features. As you know, wood shrinks. In houses made of chopped logs or during the first 5 years, shrinkage is about 10-13% of the height of the building, while shrinkage does not exceed 2%.

If there is warping of window structures, the formation of crown gaps in the walls or cracking of the glass unit, this indicates a violation of the technology during the installation process.

In houses made of chopped wood, rounded logs, planed or profiled timber, it is advisable to install the window support after the house has settled (not earlier than 1.5 years after construction).
Installing windows after the construction of a log house is not rational due to the lack of the ability to calculate wall shrinkage. This indicator depends on the moisture content of the timber.
In houses made of laminated veneer lumber, installation of windows is allowed immediately after erection of walls and installation of the roof of the house.
Installation of windows must be carried out exclusively through sliding connections - support beams and casing. Tying window blocks and frame structures to logs or beams is strictly prohibited. Tight fastening during drying leads to a violation of the integrity of window modules and the walls of the building. In fact, the window system must balance separately in relation to the wall.
In the upper part above the window frames, it is necessary to provide a shrinkage reserve - gaps of 6-7 cm. Miscalculations of spare spaces can lead to poor closing of windows or roof gaps in walls.

Installation diagram wooden windows

Preparing the window opening

Before installing the box, you should prepare the window opening. The opening must be rectangular in shape without cracks, recesses, distortions or other defects. Construction debris, dirt, dust and deposits must be removed from all surfaces.

In order to avoid distortions in the future, it is necessary to take accurate measurements of the external, internal and lateral sides of the opening.

In the case where the skew of the opening is significant and it is not possible to correct it, it is recommended to expand the window parameters in such a way that highest level the external hole exceeded the width by 2.5-4 cm and the height by 1-2 cm.

Extension can be achieved by installing an additional profile on the window. This will prevent the appearance of gaps between the box and the hole in areas of maximum distortion.

In addition to the option of expanding the size of the opening to correct the distortion, there is such an option as increasing the parameters of the window frame.

Casing

A special design, which is a wooden box without a bottom crossbar, the purpose of which is to securely fasten the window and maintain the shape of the window frame, regardless of the degree of shrinkage of the house, is called a casing or frame.

There are several types of this design:

One piece. It is made from specially processed solid material.
Glue. The individual components are made from type-setting boards, connected by means of microgrooves and glue. All burrs and small knots are removed.
Mixed. Part of the casing is made solid, and the other is made using glue. Upon completion of installation, the pigtail is varnished. This type is suitable for using large window sills.

The window frame is made according to the size of each window. Moreover, if it is planned internal lining, then a sample can be made for it. When facing on both sides, sampling is not performed.

Assembly of the casing can begin after preparing the window opening.

Its production is carried out as follows:

Grooves are machined in the base, which is adjacent to the window opening. A beam of the same size is inserted into them, acting as the side of the casing.
First, place the beam at the bottom of the opening, which will prevent displacement of the side elements.
A compactor is placed under the timber from linen tow.
Sealing material is placed in the recesses and install side boards.
The final stage is fastening the top board of the structure.
A space is left on top of the jamb for the wood to dry out and filled with sealant. This way, during the process of shrinking the logs, the load on the window opening will not be affected.

Window installation

Window installation is carried out in the following sequence:

A waterproofing layer is placed on the lower part of the opening. and sealing material.
Install window frame and fix it with the help of linings or wedges made of wood.
Using building level or a plumb line, adjust horizontal and vertical lines. In this case, you need to pay attention to the actual horizontal and vertical, and not to the sides of the window opening.
On each side of the opening, in increments of 50 cm, drill holes.
Using self-tapping screws fix the box.
Insulate the space between the frame and the wall sealing material.
Next, the frame is mounted. It is installed in the grooves of the box and secured to it with screws.
Window blocks are installed on the frame using hinges(severable and inseparable). The difference between them is the possibility of removing the hinge. Detachable ones are convenient in areas where there is no possibility of raising the window transom. Smooth fastening of the hinges facilitates even hanging of window transoms. They are fastened using screws.
The sash is locked using a locking element or latch. After checking the opening and closing of the transom, you should secure the frame using nails.
Next we move on to installing window sills. They are mounted from the inside so that the side edges extend into the walls by 4.5-5 cm on both sides.
Immediately before installation, using a lime-gypsum mixture, align the lower part of the window opening.
The window sill is fixed using wedges. After installation thermal insulation material it is finally fixed.
Installation of drip linings is carried out from the outside of the opening– the entire width of the frame’s recess into the base.
The gaps between the casing of the base and frame, as well as the top and sides of the window, are covered with platband. It is advisable to use the same type of wood from which the house is built as platbands.
All parts of the casing are connected to each other. To do this, use spikes, nails or an adhesive solution.
Placement marking is carried out in advance fastening elements (step is 10-12 cm).
So that during the process of attaching the platbands they do not move, the structure can be placed on glue.
The final stage is fixing the platbands with nails or self-tapping screws, and closing the gaps between the base and platbands with sealing material.

For the manufacture of casing, wood with a moisture content of at least 10% is used., otherwise cracks will form inside the structure over time.
When making a joint, it is strictly prohibited use metal fasteners.
Construction foam should not be used as a sealing material when assembling the casing. In this case, the wood is bonded, which prevents its natural drying.
When installing windows, it is important to make the holes for them correctly. The optimal distance from the window sill to the floor is 85-90 cm.
Experts do not recommend installing windows without installing frames, even if the house was built many years ago and the frame is completely dry. This is due to the fact that throughout its lifespan the tree has a tendency to dry out.
To provide greater efficiency and heat retention wooden windows should be installed closer to the outside of the window opening.
The material for the window sill must be chosen hard rocks tree. A window sill made of laminated wood has the longest service life; a window sill made of solid wood has the shortest service life (as a rule, the product is subject to warping).
The angles of the window opening should be 90 degrees, and the diagonals should not differ by more than 10 mm. If the hole in the base is larger than the allowable size, more sealing material will be required. If you do not ensure that the corners are even, the box may warp.
It is important to correctly calculate the seating depth of the window in the opening so that the dew point isoline, equal to 10 degrees, passes in its inner part. Then the formation of condensation on inside there will be no window.

Plastic double-glazed windows have best characteristics than wooden structures. Due to their high performance indicators, such windows are actively used in both concrete and wooden buildings.

Installation of plastic windows in wooden house differs from installation in concrete and block buildings. The technology consists of lengthy preparation, the main goal of which is to prevent the destruction of the double-glazed window due to shrinkage of the house. During work, you need to follow certain rules that will help extend the life of the structure.

Installation

Installation of double-glazed windows, regardless of the age of the house, is practically indistinguishable. In both cases, installation begins with the casing. It is this design that protects the window from destruction during the process of shrinkage and natural expansion of the wood.

Installation of plastic structures requires specific skills and knowledge from the master, without which the work cannot be carried out. If you have no experience in carpentry, it is better to turn to professionals. The main difficulty in assembling the casing for a window is assembling the tongue-and-groove lock. It is this type of fastening that ensures reliable connection of parts and protection of the frame from deformation.

Shrinkage of the usual wooden house can reach 20-30 cm, which is noticeable when using structures made of metal and plastic, the shape of which does not change over time. The degree of shrinkage depends on the type of wood. So the average shrinkage a year after the assembly of the log house is:

for houses made of logs 50-60 mm;
buildings made of timber 30-30 mm;
buildings made of laminated timber 15-30 mm.

These figures are small, but they are worth taking into account. Shrinkage of the building in the first year of construction can lead to windows being pushed through by the upper rims of partitions and walls.

Shrinkage of a building lasts up to 5 years, it depends on air humidity, the size of the house and the time of year. But even after 5 years the house still “breathes”, which is why old buildings too PVC products installed with casing.

Preparatory stage

To figure out how to install plastic windows in a wooden house, you will need to follow certain instructions. Before assembly, the following work must be done:

dismantling and removal of the old structure (for old houses);
cleaning the opening from dust, wood chips and old paint;
taking measurements of the opening and calculating the dimensions of the future window;
preparation of a diagram or drawing;
alignment of the walls of the opening in case of symmetry violations;
for leveling, use a primer, sealant and putty;
choosing the type of future window (sash format, material color and size of the entire structure);
identification of the company of the product.

When all the work described above has been completed, a window is ordered according to the measurements of the opening. There are several installation features plastic products.

Installation of the structure

After delivery, the window must be kept in room temperature. For installation you will need:

screwdriver and drill bits;
mallet and chisel;
anchor fasteners;
wedges for spacers;
polyurethane foam;
key for PVC windows;
pliers;
level and roulette.

Installation plastic window in a wooden house it is carried out in pairs, since lifting and fastening it is more convenient to do together. The weight and size of the glass unit does not allow it to be carried alone.

Note! It is recommended to install PVC windows in calm and warm weather (above minus 10).

Functions and types of casing structures

A casing is a box made of boards installed around the window along the perimeter of the opening. The design of the structure allows you to install it yourself so that it “floats” inside the log house and does not depend on the shrinkage of the building. To attach the casing to the frame, grooves are used; they are placed on the sides of the window opening. The casing itself is seated at the ends on spikes.

To prevent the casing from being blown out in winter, it is fixed with tow, linen or fiber sealant.

A small gap is left in the upper part of the casing, which maintains the integrity of the structure during shrinkage. After assembling such a frame, the movements of the frame do not affect the window in any way, and most importantly, shrinkage cannot harm the structure of the double-glazed window.

In this case, the walls will shrink, and the window will not be damaged. Casings are divided into several types, depending on the types of fastening:

In the mortgage timber. The fastening is based on a block placed in a groove at the ends of the opening. In addition, it passes through the casing posts.
Into the thorn. Such structures have a special spike that is installed on the side elements of the casing. The groove is located in the logs of the opening.
Into the deck. The tenon in this case is located at the ends of the logs. There is a groove in the casing posts.

The frame is a floating mechanism, during installation of which it is impossible to deform the plastic window. Do-it-yourself installation of wooden windows is carried out using a different technology.

It is necessary to carry out calculations very accurately, because even with a slight error the risk of deformation of the box will increase. In addition, the structure may not be airtight. Correct installation boxes are a prerequisite for quality window service.

Making a joint

There are simple and complex pigtails. Each of these types of design has its own advantages. For example, a simple frame can be quickly erected, while a complex frame eliminates vertical deformation of the window. When creating a simple pigtail, the option already described in the article is chosen - using grooves and bars.

A complex system requires sawing out a ridge in the opening. A carriage with grooves is put on it. This design option is more reliable. During the shrinkage of the house, the ridge moves in such a way that vertical deviations of the plastic structure are eliminated.

The casing is made of bars. Using a chisel, you need to knock out a groove in the center of the beam with dimensions of 0.5x0.5 cm. One of the important points is to mark the ridge yourself. How high-quality the window design will be will depend on the accuracy of the markings performed.

When the ridge is ready, you need to start forming the opening. The beams should be installed using a level. In this case, the gap for shrinkage is taken into account. It is 0.5 cm on top and 1 cm on each side. It is better to strengthen the frame, which is made of beams, using dowels. The resulting cracks are sealed with tow. Then we install the plastic frame.

Installing a plastic frame

After preparing and installing the pigtail, you should begin installing the plastic structure. Installing a window without casing is a mistake. First you should check the parallels. The gaps between the frame and PVC double glazing. For foaming, leave 3 cm on the side and about 5 cm on top. Then you can begin directly installing PVC windows in a wooden house.

The structure must be attached to its designated place using special elements. They can be purchased at any hardware store. Such fasteners are metal plates with holes.

Advice! It's better to apply special fasteners, because the use of self-tapping screws does not ensure the tightness and thermal insulation of the structure.

Installation of a plastic window is carried out with a level. If this rule is not followed, the structure may end up tilted. This circumstance can significantly reduce the aesthetic appearance of the window and its performance indicators.

Advice! Before installing the structure, the sashes must be removed. This will make the window lighter, which will have a beneficial effect on ease of installation.

After fixing the window in the opening, the resulting gap should be foamed. To securely fix the installed structure, bars are used. This will prevent the window from moving during foaming. When the foam dries, they should be removed. When installing windows in a wooden house in a casing, you should be careful. In this case, you will have to determine correct position installation of self-tapping screws. The window should not be secured in the ridge area.

At this point, the window installation process can be considered complete. Now all that remains is to put the flaps on and let the foam dry. This method of installing a plastic structure in a dacha is correct. If you are not sure about own strength, you should call professionals. However self installation plastic window is a significant cost savings. To do the job as efficiently as possible, you need to follow the instructions.

conclusions

Installing a plastic structure in a wooden house is as simple as possible. To do this you will need to do accurate calculations and prepare a specific set of tools. All work is carried out with the utmost care. This is necessary for long service glass unit.

During work, it is necessary to follow a certain sequence of actions, as well as follow some rules. It is important to take into account the characteristics of shrinkage wooden walls. If you follow the advice of professionals, plastic double glazed window will serve well for many years.

Video editing will help you cope with the task as efficiently as possible:

Reading time ≈ 12 minutes

Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) is currently very popular - it is affordable, holds heat well and does not lose its geometric parameters. Against the backdrop of rising energy prices, such materials are almost a panacea, so installing a plastic window in a wooden house with your own hands is of interest to many people. In the article, in addition to installation instructions, you will find photo and video materials that will help you cope with the task.

Log house with an attic in the process of glazing with PVC windows

Selecting plastic windows

In order to choose a good plastic window that is suitable specifically for your case, you will have to pay attention to several parameters. Do not neglect these indicators so that during operation you do not have any complaints about the manufacturer or even force majeure circumstances.

Features of double-glazed windows

Single-chamber (left) and three-chamber (right) double-glazed windows

The production of double-glazed windows involves not only different technologies manufacturing, but also different glass - this directly affects their performance characteristics. Below you will see what they are:

Regular option with float glass. This glass has high light transparency and is free from any disadvantages.
Multifunctional double-glazed windows. There is protection from ultraviolet radiation (exposure to sun rays), has low heat transfer capacity. These features directly affect the maintenance of the microclimate in the room - they keep out the cold in winter and heat in summer.
Self-cleaning designs. Such double-glazed windows help to significantly save time on cleaning, since the windows do not have to be washed from the outside. The special composition with which the glass is coated, when exposed to ultraviolet radiation (sun rays), destroys the dirt that will be washed away by the first rain. No streaks or stains remain.
Soundproofing options. In this case, thicker glasses and a scientific approach to the distance between them are used. Thanks to the high-quality profile, seal and glazing bead, vibration as such is completely eliminated. Such windows do not absorb, but reflect airborne noise, which affects densely populated and industrial areas, as well as houses located near railway stations and airfields.
Reflective double-glazed windows. They are also called specular because they are shiny and reflective with a reflectance of about 4%. Such options are ideal for hot climatic conditions - they do not allow heat to pass through, do not heat up themselves, but at the same time photons (light) pass through unhindered.
Colored double glazed windows. Such glass softens bright light and does not transmit heat well, although transparency does not suffer from this. Properties (light and heat retention) change with shades.
Tinted double glazed windows. They have the same characteristics as colored ones, but no coloring pigments are used in the composition. The shade changes due to the gluing of a special film.
Energy saving options with k-glass. This is ordinary float glass, onto which, during its manufacturing process (in a hot state), a k-coating (thin metal film) is applied using the pyrolysis method. This significantly reduces thermal conductivity and increases mechanical strength (glass is placed on the outside).
Energy saving options with i-glass. It has the reduced thermal conductivity inherent in k-glass. But i-coating is a thin layer of silver and the glass can easily be deformed, so it is installed inside a double-glazed window.
Designs made from smart glass. These are like “living” windows that change their parameters (transparency and thermal conductivity) when they change from the outside. This category includes energy-saving and self-cleaning windows.
Triplex glass. It is a multilayer sheet with a transparent polymer in the interlayer. This factor does not reduce translucency, but increases fire resistance and mechanical strength (this does not affect thermal conductivity and sound insulation). If such glass is broken, it will not shatter into small fragments, but will be held on to the polymer.

Note. Also, double-glazed windows are distinguished by the number of chambers. For regions with a temperate climate, one- and two-chamber packages are popular, in cold zones - three-chamber ones.

Video: The glass unit formula determines the choice

Metal-plastic profile

Five-chamber profile made of metal-plastic

The functionality of PVC profiles for windows can be determined by six parameters, including:

Number of cameras. According to the building standard, 3, 4 and 5 chamber PVC profiles are produced. Moreover, the thickness of the first two options is 60 mm, and the third – 70 mm.
The width of the outer wall can be of three classes:

A – 3 mm ±0.2 mm;
B – 2.7 mm ±0.2 mm;
C – 2.5 mm ±0.2 mm.

Reinforcing or guide profile. It determines the rigidity of the frame and its service life. When installing a plastic window in a wooden house, pay attention to its cross-section - it must be a galvanized square with a wall of at least 1.2 mm. L-shaped perforated or ferrous metal, especially one of smaller thickness, indicates low quality.
Rubber seals. High-quality seals are made of rubber and have a warranty from the manufacturer for at least 10 years. But if you lubricate the inserts with special silicone at least once a year, the service life will double.
Qualitative PVC profile does not fade in the sun, does not turn yellow and does not emit a smell, but this depends on its composition:

TiO2 – titanium dioxide. An effective white dye, which is practically absent in budget profiles.
Chalk is his permissible norm in cheap profiles it is limited to 6%, but unscrupulous manufacturers exceed this parameter by 2-3 times. This causes the plastic to burn out, turn yellow, and there is no perfectly smooth surface.

The manufacturer largely determines quality. So, Chinese windows are much cheaper, but they will not last long. In the European Union countries and in Russia, a law has been introduced on laser marker marks, which are applied 30-50 cm from the end side. The date of manufacture and country of origin are displayed there. If such marking is present, then there is no doubt about the quality of PVC, reinforcement and seals - they will comply with GOST and SNiP.

PVC window installation process

Below you will find step-by-step instructions for installing plastic windows in a wooden house. This is not difficult, but it will require the presence of certain carpentry tools - I will not write them out separately and you will learn about them as you read.

Removing old windows

I offer special instructions for dismantling old windows from the opening so as not to damage those elements that will remain in use. But this only applies to old houses, where there are already window openings with jambs and they meet your needs - in a new building this point is not relevant.

First of all, you should remove all the glass - to do this, remove the glazing bead and all the nails that did not come out when eliminating this profile. Sometimes the studs are invisible, so to make sure they are present or absent, run a knife or screwdriver at the place where the beads are installed, lightly pressing against the glass. If you stayed there fastening material, then the blade will definitely trip over it, and then, as they say, it’s a matter of technique.

In some cases, in order to seal the windows as much as possible and get rid of drafts, the glass is glued to the frame with silicone or silicone sealant. In such situations, all attempts to pick up the glass with a knife in order to tear it away from the frame are doomed to failure. There is only one way out - to break the glass, but it can fly apart and hurt you. To avoid this, glue wet newspaper onto the glass and break it - all the fragments will fall nearby and will not fly apart.

The frame is supported by nails, which are also very difficult to pull out - it is much easier to cut vertical frame profiles with a hacksaw, as shown in the top photo. After this, use a nail puller to pick up part of the cut vertical and tear it off. Perform a similar operation on the opposite side, and then tear off the cross sections with a nail puller. The opening is ready and you can insert a plastic window.

Window casing in a wooden house

This is how a groove is made for the casing tenon in the embedded block

First of all, you should cut out the window openings and there are two options. If the plastic windows are already ready, then, of course, you will have to focus on their sizes, but this is the exception rather than the rule. Usually, the window (door) openings are cut out first and only after that the window dimensions are taken or a representative of the company where the windows will be made is invited (this is a free service).

Casing into the embedded block (left) and into the deck (right)

First, let's look at the features of installing a casing (plug). Casing into a deck clearly involves cutting a tenon along the verticals of the opening, and making a groove in the box for this tenon, as shown in the image at the top right. But we will focus on the pigtail with the embedded bar - it is more popular.

With embedded block more options. A groove is cut in the opening according to the size of the block (usually 50x50 mm) and the block is driven into it without nailing it, and a distance of 3 cm is left at the top for shrinkage of the house. But sometimes they make a so-called monolith spike, this is when the spike is one piece with the vertical of the casing. In both cases, the logs or beams, when the wall shrinks, will simply slide along the tenon without deforming the window frame.

A jute or felt tape is nailed to both sides of the inserted block with a stapler - this is necessary for sealing and. Now you can screw a rough box to the block, which is most often assembled from pine boards 50×100 mm. In this case, it is best to use wood screws 75 mm long - they are guaranteed not to pass through the block and will not reach the edge of the opening. If this happens, a log or beam may hang on the screw, which will lead to the formation of a gap between the logs.

Now the upper and lower crossbars are inserted, but if at the bottom it is laid between vertical boards, then at the top it is placed on them. The gap left should be 3 cm, which means that the distance from the end of the vertical to the top of the opening is 8 cm, that is, the jumper, having a 5-centimeter thickness, will leave 3 cm of free space after installation. It is best to fasten the boards of the rough box together with metal corners. Now we are talking about installing a plastic window in a wooden house with your own hands, so below you can watch a video about how a window frame is made.

Important! The use of polyurethane foam in this case is unacceptable! The foam will glue the box with the opening, which will prevent the logs from sliding freely along the block during shrinkage.

Video: Window or casing of an opening - protection against building shrinkage

Installation of PVC window sill

PVC window sill

After installing the rough frame (casing), you can begin installing the window sill - this is the first step for assembling a window within the opening. The fact is that the window sill is not adjacent to the transverse profile from the side, but the frame is placed on top - there is a special recess there. But for strength, you should make a 5-8 mm cut on the sides of the box and insert the window sill there - this way it will hold much better. To level the horizontal level use plastic plates, as stands (mention them when ordering the window if you will install it yourself).

Self-tapping screws with press washer

The window sill element must be attached to the bottom window opening self-tapping screws, stepping back from the edge plastic panel 20-25 mm, and subsequently the heads will be covered with a frame profile. To prevent the screw head from pushing through the plastic, you need a version with a press washer without a rubber gasket, as in the top photo.

Installation of a plastic window in a wooden house

PVC frames are always covered protective film, but according to the installation technology, it is removed only when the window is finally inserted - this protects the plastic from scratches and contamination. To prevent the shutters from opening (this interferes with installation), screw the window handles and place them in the “closed” position (vertically down).

On vertical and horizontal window profiles drill holes on the glass unit installation line with a diameter 1 mm larger than the diameter of the fastening screw. Most often, the screw is 5 mm, and the hole is made 6 mm. The caps must be recessed into the plastic, so a 10 mm drill is used to make a countersunk to the depth of the metal profile. You need three holes on the sides, and two at the top and bottom, with a distance of 50-60 mm from the corner.

At the bottom, the frame is placed directly on the window sill, but at the top and on the sides there should be a gap of about 10 mm or a little less. Therefore, to screw the frame evenly, use wooden spacers (they are easy to make yourself). When everything is screwed in, check the vertical and horizontal levels, as well as the function of opening and closing the doors, so that there is no distortion.

If the sash closes normally (there is no friction anywhere and there is a tight connection), then close the window and insert double-glazed windows. It is unlikely that it will be possible to press the glazing bead with your hands, therefore, in order for this profile to fit tightly into the seating groove, it is finished off rubber mallet. Now all that remains is to blow out the gap between the frame and the rough box polyurethane foam, and it will be possible to open the sash the very next day (precautionary measure against warping of the profile). All that remains is to make slopes inside and outside, as well as install platbands, but this is after the final shrinkage of the house.

Conclusion

In fact, installing a plastic window in a wooden house, except for the construction and installation of the casing, is done in the same way as in a brick, block or monolithic building. But attentiveness is needed in any case, so try to remember all your actions and, if necessary, read the article again. You can also print out the installation process on a printer and keep it in your pocket while you work for use as needed.

Installing windows in a wooden house is easier than in brick or concrete buildings. This operation has a number of features, which we will discuss further.

Preparatory procedures are half the battle. A lot will depend on them.

Dismantling old frames

Before installing windows in a wooden house, it is necessary to dismantle the old ones. If your house is new and there are no double-glazed windows at all, you can skip this point. Most offices will charge 50% of the cost of new ones for dismantling old windows. Therefore, performing this procedure yourself is beneficial from an economic point of view. In addition, it does not require any special skills.

Tip: old frames can be used for greenhouses or outbuildings.

Armed with a puller, screwdriver and other tools, you will need to dismantle. We start with the doors: open them, remove them from their hinges and pull them out. Next, remove the frames, window sill and other elements.

Creating a simple casing

If we are talking about an old building and such elements already exist, you can skip this point. Before installing a window in a wooden house, you need to create a “casing”. A frame is a structure along the opening that saves frames from all kinds of damage. The timber (including round timber) begins to deform over time - this process is called shrinkage. So that it does not affect the new double-glazed window, this design is installed.

It is created as follows:

We cut out projections from medium-sized timber (3 pieces - for each side of the opening). They will be needed to create carriages (side elements). The outermost bars should be installed to a depth of 5 cm.
We create grooves at the ends of each element for secure fixation. To prevent them from creaking, we cover the structure with rolled tow. This measure will also increase the thermal insulation of the window.
We get a U-shaped structure. It needs to be mounted into the opening using large nails (200 mm) or special screws.

There are other options for creating a pigtail, but this one is the simplest.

We prepare tools and materials

We will need the following:

Powerful drill and screwdriver.
Level (preferably laser).
Chisel.
Roulette.
Gloves.
Polyurethane foam (or similar material).
Pliers.
Spacer bars (you can make your own).
Anchor plates.
Hexagon (it will be needed for final adjustment of the fittings).
Anchor screws.

Main scope of work

We move from preliminary procedures to the final stages.

Measurements and design

Self-installation of PVC windows in a wooden house begins with measurements. You will need to do the following:

Armed with a tape measure, measure all sides to the nearest millimeter.
We draw on paper a project for the future window, maintaining all proportions.
We mark the places of divisions, vents and other components that you want to see in your double-glazed window.
Having in hand ready plan, you can contact a window manufacturing company.

Starting stage - window sill

Installation must begin with the window sill, since it is the foundation of the entire structure. We install it as follows:

Two grooves with a depth of no more than 10 cm are cut into the side of the box. This will allow the window sill to be securely fixed.
Apply it and, if necessary, level it wooden plates, prepared earlier.

Advice: if the window sill is mounted at the end, a gap will form that will need to be sealed regularly. Installing it under the frame increases the efficiency of the design.

Having achieved a level position, we fix the window sill using self-tapping screws. You need to place a rubber gasket under the cap - this will prevent possible cracking of the plastic.
We drill holes where the window sill will cover the frame. They need to be done at low speeds so as not to damage the plastic. If you use powerful drill, during drilling it may begin to melt, so it is better to arm yourself with a screwdriver.
We adjust the position with a level. The window sill must be strictly horizontal!

Some manufacturers offer double-glazed windows without window sills (they are purchased separately and installed at the end). We recommend purchasing all items from one seller at once - it’s more reliable.

Preparing the ground for further work

Do not rush to remove the factory film - it will protect the structure from damage. We carry out the work in the following sequence:

We take out the frames and install the handle. To do this, put it in a horizontal position, fix it with bolts and lower it down.
We mark on the side posts the places for drilling the holes necessary for fixing the frames. The drill is 6 mm, respectively the self-tapping screw is 5 mm. On each side post you need to make 2 holes (4 in total). They should be located at a distance of 30-40 cm from the lower and upper ends of the beam.
In order for the self-tapping screw to rest securely on the frame, it must be recessed. To do this, use a 10 mm drill to make holes up to the iron frame. The cap should fit freely into the cavity of the beam.

Installing PVC window

The time has come for the most important stage - installation of frames. We place the finished structure in the opening. We adjust the frames on both sides and control them using a tape measure and level. The distance from the sashes to the frame on both sides should be the same (within 1 cm). You also need to control the verticality of the installation. This can be done using a plumb line.

Having achieved a level position, we place a spacer block between the box and the frame. It will act as a stop during installation - without it, when screwing in the screws, the frame may move to the side. Having installed the bars, we once again carefully check the evenness of the location along the slope. After making sure that the window is perfectly horizontal (vertical), we secure the window with self-tapping screws. They should be located between the window and the frame.

This method of installing the box is highly reliable and mobile - if the wood is deformed, the frame will not warp. This is achieved due to the fact that the screws are able to move towards the skew.

We insert the adjusting plates between the drain holes (they are needed to drain condensate - without them the glass unit will inevitably fog up).
We insert a double-glazed window into the opening. It should not stand tightly - this is due to seasonal deformations of wood and other materials.

Important! If you find that there is no standard gap (5-7 mm), contact the manufacturer, as this is an obvious defect.

We install the glass unit evenly and fix it using glazing beads (they should be included in the kit) with profile spikes. You need to tap on them until a characteristic click appears, indicating correct insertion.
We fill all existing cracks with polyurethane foam. After 2-3 hours, cut off the excess with a knife.

This completes the installation of windows in a wooden house with your own hands.

A few words about cashing out

First of all, it is needed to increase insulating properties and hide flaws. It closes the foamed cracks, which completely prevents the possibility of cold air getting inside. There is a second function - aesthetic. Window casing in a wooden house frames the opening favorably, giving it an attractive appearance.

It can be performed from various materials, most often made of plastic. These are ready-made structures that only need to be secured using self-tapping screws along the perimeter of the window. However for wooden houses sometimes they also perform carved cashing. It can be made to order or independently, if a person has carpentry skills. After installation, the cash is coated with an antiseptic and wood varnish - this will prolong its life.

Plastic double-glazed windows have gained popularity due to their performance qualities. But can they be used in the construction and repair of wooden buildings? Of course, it is possible and necessary.

Installing plastic windows in a wooden house has a lot of differences and features. The process includes a number of preparatory manipulations, primarily related to the fact that the structure tends to sag over time.

We install a PVC window in a private house

The technology features for installing PVC windows in a wooden house of new or old construction are not very different. In any case, experts recommend technology using casing - time-tested, this technology allows you to avoid deformation, regardless of the material from which it is made.

Installing a plastic window in a wooden house or cottage with your own hands will require the performer to have some knowledge and skills. Of course, if there are none, then it is more advisable to turn to specialists. Complexity self-installation PVC systems in a wooden house is that the frame is fastened using a tongue-and-groove mechanism. This design makes it possible to create operating conditions in which the deformation and subsidence of wood does not directly affect the glass unit.

The system allows you to install a plastic window yourself, so that the window is fixed independently of the main structure of the wall and has a floating character. Window system It is secured with grooves on the side, which are placed on spikes protruding from the end of the logs and beams.

To fix and seal the casing, only tow, flax batting or fiber insulation are used. Never use polyurethane foam.

Attention! A gap is left at the top based on the wood's settlement.

Thus, wall shrinkage wooden structure does not affect the window in any way, much less damage it. Depending on the fastenings, casings can be classified into the following types:

into a thorn This design is characterized by the presence of a tenon, which is mounted on the side parts of the casing, and a groove, which is located in the logs of the opening;
in the embedded beam. The basis of the fastening is considered to be a block, which is placed in a groove at the ends of the opening and passes through the casing posts;
into the deck. The tenon is located at the ends of the window opening logs, but the groove is in the casing posts.

The box is a floating mechanism, which prevents deformation of the plastic window during operation, regardless of the type of installation of the casing.

Calculations should be made with high accuracy, since even a minor error can lead to deformation of the window frame or leakage of the structure. Besides, correct installation- this is the key to the quality of the plastic window itself.

How to make a pigtail (casing)

The design can be of two types: complex and simple. A simple window frame is the system described above, with bars and grooves. Complex design It is performed somewhat differently: a ridge is cut out in the window opening, onto which a carriage with grooves is placed. This option is more reliable. When the walls shrink, the ridge can slide and does not allow vertical deviations, eliminating pressure on the window frame.

The casing is usually made of timber. Using a wood chisel, a 0.5 cm groove is knocked out in the center of the beam, and a tenon (0.5x0.5x.25 cm) is cut out from one end. A ridge with 0.5x0.5 cm spikes is cut out from the end of the opening logs. You can use a saw or chisel for this.

Important! Ridge markings - important point. The quality and reliability of the design depends on the accuracy of the markings.

After the ridge is ready, we proceed to install the risers and form the structure of the opening between them. The beams are installed level, taking into account the gaps for wall shrinkage (1 cm on the sides and 0.5 cm on top). The frame made of beams is strengthened with the help of grooves with the main fabric of the walls and dowels between them. The gaps left are sealed with tow or other fiber. That's all, now you can start installation directly plastic frame. You can watch the process in more detail in this video:

Stage No. 3. Installation in the prepared opening

After carrying out the necessary preparatory work and installation of the frame, you can begin installing the window.

Attention! Installing plastic windows in a wooden house without casing is the wrong option.

To begin with, we check the dimensions and location of parallels, the gaps between the casing structure and the frame. The margin for foaming should be: 4-5 cm at the top, 2-3 cm in width and height, 3-4 cm in the window sill area. Having made sure that the stock corresponds to these indicators, we proceed directly to installing the plastic frame.

Attach the window using special fastenings, which are sold in any hardware store. They are metal plates with holes.

Installation of a plastic window should be done level. If you neglect this factor, then you risk getting a structure with a slope, which significantly reduces the operational and aesthetic objectives of the window.

Advice! Before installing windows, the sashes are removed. This simplifies the design and makes it much more convenient to install it in the opening.

After the window is secured in the opening, it is necessary to fill the gap with foam. To avoid displacement of the structure during foaming, blocks are placed that will maintain the position of the frame without deviation. After drying, do not forget to remove it.

Fastening the window to the casing is done with care. In this case, you must select correct location tightening screws. Under no circumstances should a window be secured in the ridge area!

That's all, we finish the process by completely foaming the opening. We put the sashes on and let the foam dry.

We presented The right way installation of a plastic window in a wooden house. This process can be difficult, so if you are unsure of your abilities, it is better to turn to professionals.

However, installing a plastic window yourself is a significant cost savings. We invite you to watch a video tutorial on how to install a window yourself: