DIY rocket stoves. Making a rocket stove with your own hands Do-it-yourself continuous combustion rocket stoves

Drawings and videos of a rocket stove required for DIY installation

Do-it-yourself jet stove: diagram, drawings, step-by-step instructions for making a rocket stove, etc. + video

The jet stove or rocket stove appeared as a result of a deviation from the traditions of manufacturing equipment for heating a room. It is considered an economical heat generator, the design of which is elementary. Therefore, many people are thinking about building a jet furnace with their own hands.

Description, advantages and disadvantages of the rocket stove

A heat generator for heating the air in a room is called a rocket stove or jet stove, since during operation, in case of excessive air supply, it makes special sounds. This noise can be mistaken for the roar of a jet engine. In normal mode, the equipment operates with a barely audible rustling sound.

A rocket stove serves as a device for heating a home and cooking food. It takes about 6 hours to burn one batch of firewood in such equipment, more than in a standard metal stove. The reason for this is the creation of a heat generator based on a top-burning furnace.

The flame from the jet furnace may burst out

The advantages of the rocket stove include:

independence from fuel energy;
simplicity of design, consisting of accessible parts, connected in a matter of minutes;
the ability to provide a lot of heat, despite the quality of the loaded fuel.

The jet furnace also has some disadvantages:

manual control, which implies constant monitoring of equipment operation;
danger of burns, because the walls of the equipment become extremely hot;
It is inappropriate to use in a bathhouse, since it cannot be warmed up.

Kinds

A unit that emits a rocket-like hum during operation can be:

portable (a unit made of metal pipes, buckets or a gas cylinder); Portable rocket stoves are mass-produced by industry
stationary (made from fireclay bricks and metal containers); Such a unit is more difficult to build than a metal furnace
equipment for heating air with a couch. The couch is equipped with back wall ovens

Portable structures are manufactured in large quantities, because they are used for hiking. The basis of these heat generators is a pipe made up of several sections.

True, such structures, unlike units based on fireclay bricks, are not reliable. Walls made of refractory blocks increase the heat transfer of the jet furnace.

If desired, you can add a bed in the form of a sofa or bed, decorated with clay or sawdust.

Parts and operation of a jet heat generator

A basic rocket furnace is a device consisting of two pipe fragments connected by a bend at an angle of 90 degrees.

The combustion chamber in this heat generator is usually a zone in the horizontal part of the structure.

But sometimes fuel is placed in the vertical section of the apparatus, for which a rocket stove is constructed from two pipes of different lengths, mounted vertically and connected by a common horizontal channel.

Primary and secondary air passes through the furnace

The operation of a jet stove is based on two actions: the unhindered passage of wood gases through the pipe and the afterburning of gases produced during fuel combustion.

Wood chips and firewood are placed in the firebox of this heat generator after a highly flammable material such as paper ignites. A container with water or other contents is placed on the open section of the pipe.

At the same time, a small space is left between the structure and the installed container, which is necessary to create traction.

The processes occurring inside a stationary reactive furnace resemble the operation of pyrolysis heating units

Calculation of parameters (tables)

The volume of the furnace should be determined wisely, because it is it that affects the power and amount of heat generated by the heating equipment.

When calculating the dimensions of jet heating equipment, use the indicator of the internal diameter of the drum D, the value of which can range from 300–600 mm. You also need to know the cross-sectional area of the drum.

To determine this indicator of the rocket stove, use the formula: S = 3.14 * D2 /4.

The main dimensions of the jet furnace are presented in the table:

Particular importance is attached to the length of the flue with the stove bench. The maximum permissible values are shown in the table:

The volume of the secondary ash chamber is also an important indicator, depending on the volume of the drum and the primary chimney.

Construction raw materials for the construction of a non-standard furnace

The production of jet heating equipment will require:

barrels with a volume of 200 liters and a diameter of 0.6 meters, an empty cylinder from under liquefied gas or tin buckets to build a furnace drum;
square or round steel pipes 2–3 mm thick, which are needed to create a blower, combustion chamber and primary chimney;
fireclay crushed stone and oven clay as thermal insulation materials;
adobe, which serves as the outer coating layer;
fireclay bricks;
sand from the bottom of the river;
pieces of sheets of zinc-coated steel or aluminum for the manufacture of lids and doors;
asbestos or basalt cardboard, which serves as a sealant.

When constructing a rocket stove, you will need a welding machine. And if you plan to make heating equipment from bricks, then you will have to take:

Master OK;
mortar spatula;
hammer-pick;
jointing;
sharp-angled sledgehammer;
level;
plumb line;
roulette

Preparation for assembling heating equipment

When choosing a location for a rocket stove, follow some rules:

jet heating equipment is placed only in a room with an area of at least 16 m²;
Without floorboards under the stove, installation of equipment will be easier;
It is prohibited to place wooden beams above a structure that produces heat;
if it is assumed that the chimney will go through the ceilings, then the heating equipment is placed in the middle of the house;
the heat generator cannot be installed near the external contour of the house, otherwise the room will lose heated air;
The jet device must not be placed next to walls and partitions of wooden materials.

To make it convenient to add fuel to jet heating equipment, it is wiser to place it facing the entrance. It is important to leave at least a meter of unoccupied space around the rocket stove.

In a small house, builders advise setting aside a place for the stove in the corner. In this case, the firebox should be directed in one direction, and the bed (if it is made) – in the other.

The stove stands on a special platform that protects the floor from high temperatures

Having found a suitable site for the rocket stove, they begin to prepare it for construction work. If boards are laid on the floor in the house, then in the place where the equipment will be installed, they will need to be removed. A hole is dug under the exposed floor, the bottom of which is necessarily pressed.

Before construction work a special solution should be mixed. It consists of sand and clay combined in a 1:1 ratio. You will need enough water so that the construction raw materials have the consistency of sour cream, that is, ¼ of the amount of dry ingredients.

Step-by-step instructions for making it yourself

If you plan to make a rocket stove from a gas cylinder, then you don’t have to be afraid of difficulties. The steps to create equipment from such construction raw materials are quite simple:

the upper part is cut off from a cylinder with a volume of 50 liters in order to build a kind of cap;
The balloon is cut off at the top and bottom
Based on the instructions in the drawing, all parts of the product are welded to each other, that is gas cylinder, a pipe with a diameter of 10 cm (future chimney), a pipe with a diameter of 7 cm (internal channel) and another pipe with a diameter of 15 cm (firebox);
Dimensions in mm
the space between the two pipes is filled with a material that retains heat, for example, sand, which has been thoroughly calcined, that is, cleared of organic substances;
To give the structure stability, the legs are welded.

To build a rocket stove with a stove bench, which involves the use of bricks, you need to proceed differently:

The area for arranging the firebox is deepened by removing 10 cm of soil. The combustion chamber is formed from fireclay bricks. Formwork is created along the contour of the structure being manufactured. To ensure a strong foundation, it is recommended to lay it in reinforcing mesh or metal rods;
The platform will harden in about two days
The structure is filled with liquid concrete. Then they wait for the solution to harden and finish the work. The bricks are laid in a continuous line, creating a platform for the stove. After this, the walls of the structure are formed, placing several rows of brick blocks;
The lower channel of the structure is constructed, with one line of bricks laid across to block the combustion chamber. The blocks are placed, leaving the vertical channel and the firebox opening open;
Two sectors of the furnace at this stage of construction should be open
Find the body from the old boiler and cut off the top and bottom covers on it. A flange is installed at the bottom of the resulting pipe through which a horizontal heat exchanger will pass. The parts must be connected to each other with a continuous weld;
Work requires accuracy
An outlet pipe is inserted into the barrel, after which they take a metal brush and scrape off the rust from the walls of the container. The cleaned barrel is treated with a primer, and a little later with paint that is resistant to high temperatures;
The horizontal chimney is connected by welding to the side outlet - the future ash pit. To facilitate its cleaning, a sealed flange is installed;
The fire tube is laid out from refractory bricks. At the same time, a channel 18 cm high and wide is formed inside the structure. While doing this, they constantly use building level, which allows you to control the verticality of the product;
The height of the pipe is determined in advance
The flame tube is covered protective casing, and the resulting gaps are sealed with perlite. The lower area of the vertical channel is sealed with damp clay, the function of which is to prevent spillage thermal insulation material on the floor;
From the boiler, on which the top and bottom have been cut off, a fuel tank is formed. A handle must be welded to it;
To improve the appearance, the structure is treated with adobe putty, consisting of sawdust and raw clay. The first component of the composition serves in the same way as crushed stone in concrete, that is, it prevents cracking of the furnace walls. It is recommended to apply adobe putty over perlite backfill;
They create the facade of the stove, for which the stove contour is laid out from stone, bricks, adobe and sand. Wrong side the structures are filled with crushed stone, and the front one is filled with adobe mixture, making the surface perfectly flat;
A metal barrel casing is placed on the previously created base. The lower pipe of the container is directed towards the bed. The bottom of the structure is treated with raw clay, which will ensure its tightness;
A channel is connected to the combustion chamber from corrugated pipe. It will serve as a link between the firebox and the outside atmosphere;
At this stage the oven looks almost finished
A test firing of the stove is carried out, watching how the gases are removed from the horizontal chimney. After this, the heat exchanger pipes are connected to the lower pipe installed on a red brick platform;
The stove is equipped with a smoke exhaust pipe. The junction of the chimney and the heat generator is sealed with fire-resistant coating and asbestos cord;
Using clay and adobe, the bed is given the desired shape. Only the horizontal section of the structure is left unsealed, which will then be used during cooking.
The oven functions as a whole system

Design improvement

A bench with a gas duct inside is not the only option for upgrading a rocket stove. The design can be improved with a water jacket connected to heating system, in which water circulates. It is advisable to give this part of the structure the appearance of a coil created from a copper pipe twisting onto the chimney.

This design provides even more heat

Another way to improve a jet furnace is to organize the flow of heated secondary air into the flame tube. This will increase the efficiency of the heat generator, but will lead to the deposition of a large amount of soot in the primary chimney. Therefore, it is better to make sure that the drum cover can be removed if necessary.

Subtleties of operating an unconventional stove

A rocket furnace is heated in a similar way to a top combustion heat generator. It turns out that the kindling of equipment called a rocket must be carried out according to certain rules:

the main raw material for heating the unit must be added only after the structure has been well heated, for which purpose sawdust or paper is first placed in the blower sector and set on fire;
they must react to the muting of the hum emanating from the stove - they put a large batch of fuel into the combustion chamber, which will ignite on its own from the hot remains of sawdust;
the process is closely monitored, that is, after laying the firewood, the damper is fully opened, and after some time, when the equipment makes a hum, it is closed to produce a sound similar to a rustling;
as necessary, the damper is closed more and more, otherwise the firebox will be filled with an excess volume of air, which will disrupt the pyrolysis inside the fire tube and lead to the creation of a strong hum.

Since the jet furnace was originally created for use in field conditions, its design is extremely simple. This allows the production of the unit to be carried out by ordinary home handyman. But, despite its apparent lightness, the rocket stove must be assembled, taking into account correct ratio parameters. Otherwise, the equipment will be unproductive.

Ksenia Zubkova
Print

Source: //legkovmeste.ru/stroitelstvo-i-remont/otoplenie/reaktivnaya-pech-svoimi-rukami.html

DIY rocket oven - instructions!

Unfortunately, in our country almost no one knows about the rocket stove. Meanwhile, such a design is extremely useful in a number of cases due to the almost complete absence of soot during operation and the high combustion temperature.

Jet stove

Rocket stove

Today we will talk about how to make a rocket oven with your own hands.

Principle of operation

Hot gases, instead of a chimney, enter a special hood, where they burn out (hence the absence of soot). At the same time, the temperature increases even more, and the pressure, on the contrary, decreases. The cycle is constantly repeated and soon the stove reaches the combustion mode with maximum draft (the strength of the latter depends on the design features and quality of installation).

Rocket stove

The temperature in the bell can reach 1200ᵒC, as a result of which all waste burns almost without residue, and the exhaust consists mainly of carbon dioxide and water vapor.

Note! Thanks to this, the chimney can be laid under the floor or through some kind of heating structure (a couch, for example, or a bench). What's more, the hot hood can be used to heat water, cook food, dry fruits, etc.

Jet furnaces

The advantages include:

high efficiency;
no soot;
high temperature;
the possibility of using cones, damp branches, dry plant stems as fuel - almost everything burns at a temperature of 1200ᵒ;
low fuel consumption - approximately four times lower than in the standard design.

Types of rocket stoves

There are several types of rocket (or jet, as they are also called) stoves.

Portable structures made from tin containers (paint cans, buckets, etc.). Excellent helpers on a construction site or on a hike, which can be made in just a few hours.
Furnaces made of refractory bricks and metal barrels, intended for heating heat-intensive masses. They are distinguished by a horizontal chimney installed underground and an external riser to provide draft.
All brick structures are used for air heating floor. They consist of several chimney pipes at once.

Note! Due to the complexity of implementing the third option, only the first two will be considered in this article.

Making a reaction furnace from a brick and a metal barrel

In this case, the work traditionally begins with preparing everything necessary.

Making a reaction furnace from a brick and a metal barrel, drawing

Stage 1. Materials and equipment

For construction you will need:

fireclay brick;
steel barrel 200 l;
chimney pipe;
metal brush;
old barbecue;
fire resistant paint;
bayonet shovel;
expanded clay;
fittings;
adobe;
perlite;
cement mortar;
trowel. Making a jet furnace from a brick and a metal barrel

Stage 2. Preparation

Step 1. A pit is dug in the floor (if possible) approximately 30-50 cm deep. This is necessary so that the level of the horizontal chimney does not rise too much.

Step 2. The steel barrel will serve as a hood for the furnace. First, the barrel is fired and cleaned of soot with a wire brush, after which it is painted with fire-resistant paint.

Note! Paint is applied only after the chimney outlet flange has been installed.

Stage 3. Foundation

Step 1. Preparing the formwork for the future foundation.

Step 2. In the place where the firebox will be, several bricks are driven into the ground.

Step 3. Steel reinforcement is laid at the bottom.

Step 4. Bricks are laid level around the bottom point of the combustion chamber.

Step 5. The base is filled with concrete mortar.

Making a reaction furnace from a brick and a metal barrel

Stage 4. Masonry

After the solution has dried, you can begin laying the rocket stove.

Note! To do this, you need to use only refractory clay.

Step 1. On the first tier, the masonry rises up, leaving only a hole for the combustion chamber.

Step 2. At the second level, the lower channel of the furnace is formed.

Making a reaction furnace from a brick and a metal barrel

Step 3. On the third, the channel is covered with masonry so that there are two holes - for the combustion chamber and the vertical channel.

Note! The bricks do not need to be hewn after laying - they will still have to be hidden with adobe and expanded clay.

Step 4. Preparation for laying the vertical channel. In addition to the barrel itself, this will require an old water heater of approximately 150 liters.

A flange is built into the barrel to connect the chimney. It is also advisable to install a tee here for cleaning the chimney.

Step 5. The ascending part of the structure is placed using the “boot” method. The internal cross-section of this part should be approximately 18 cm.

Step 6. A piece of water heater is placed on the ascending part, and the voids between the walls are filled with perlite. The upper part of the perlite is sealed with fireclay clay.

Step 7. The base of the furnace is lined with bags filled with sand, the base of the casing is coated with clay. The voids between the bags and the body are filled with expanded clay, after which the base is finished with the same clay.

Step 8. The chimney is connected, an inverted steel barrel is placed on the ascending part.

Step 9. A test run of the furnace is carried out, after which the barrel is painted with fire-resistant paint.

Making a reaction furnace from a brick and a metal barrel, diagram

Stage 5. Chimney lining

Step 1. The chimney is lined with sandbags and filled with expanded clay.

Step 2. The structure is given the appropriate shape using fireclay clay.

Note! A rocket stove requires a large amount of oxygen during operation, so it is recommended to install an air duct from the street.

All that remains is to install the old barbecue in the neck of the firebox and close it with a lid. The seams are sealed with clay. That's it, the brick rocket oven is ready for use.

A stove-bed built on the principle of a rocket stove

Stove-bed, built on the principle of a rocket stove, diagram

Stove-bed, built on the principle of a rocket stove, foundation

Stove-bed, built on the principle of a rocket stove, masonry

Making a camping and garden stove

In this design, as in the one described above, the operating principle is to isolate the fire and direct the thermal energy to the right place.

Stage 1. Preparing everything you need

To prepare a portable rocket stove you will need:

two tin containers of different diameters;
a couple of corners;
steel clamps ø10 cm;
pipe from of stainless steel for chimney;
fine crushed stone;
Bulgarian;
metal scissors. Making a camping and garden stove Making a camping and garden stove Making a camping and garden stove In the second bucket - the lower part of the rocket stove, we cut a hole for the pipe. We cut the metal into petals and bend it inside the bucket. for dishes From wire we bend the burner for dishes We heat the rocket stove

Stage 2. Assembling the structure

Step 1. A lid for the structure is made from a smaller bucket. To do this, a hole is made in it for the chimney (the cover is not removed). In this case, it is better to bend the “petals” inward - this way the pipe will be fixed more securely.

The lower half of the bucket is cut off with a grinder.

Step 2. A hole is cut in the bottom of another container to connect the firebox. The tin is cut into “petals” with scissors and bent inward.

Step 3. The forward flow is assembled from a pipe and a couple of corners. The pipe is then inserted into the bucket and connected there to the “petals” using a steel clamp. That's it, the forward flow of the rocket furnace is ready.

Step 4. The space between the direct flow and the walls of the bucket is filled with fine crushed stone. The latter will perform two functions in the design at once - thermal insulation and thermal accumulation.

Step 5. The second bucket (lid) is placed on the jet stove.

Step 6. A hotplate is bent from steel wire.

Note! Instead of a burner, you can install three bricks.

Step 7. All that remains is to paint the structure with heat-resistant paint (preferably gray or black). For melting, the direct flow outlet pipe will be used.

Mini jet oven

Mini jet stove, kindling

Operating rules for rocket stoves

Rocket stoves, as well as other designs long burning, need to be run on a warm pipe. And if for the second version of the stove this is not so important, then for the first, a cold chimney will only lead to wasted burning of fuel. For this reason, the structure needs to be preheated - heated with sawdust, paper, etc.

It is also worth noting that the jet stove is unable to self-adjust, so at first the vent opens completely, and closes only after the structure begins to hum strongly. Subsequently, the availability of oxygen gradually decreases.

About the rocket stove in the bathhouse

Jet wood stove with deck chair

Many people are probably interested in the question: is it possible to use a jet stove in a bathhouse? It would seem that it is possible, because it is quite easy to equip a heater on a tire.

In reality, such a design is not suitable for a bathhouse. For light steam, you first need to warm up the walls, and only then, after some time, the air. For the latter, the oven must be a center of convection and thermal radiation (IR). This is the problem - in a rocket furnace, convection is clearly distributed, and the design does not provide for losses due to thermal radiation at all.

DIY rocket oven

conclusions

Be that as it may, today in the manufacture of rocket stoves there is more intuition than real accurate calculations, therefore, this is an almost limitless field for creativity.

We also suggest that you familiarize yourself with the video instructions for making a rocket stove.

– Do-it-yourself jet stove

Source: //svoimi-rykami.ru/stroitelstvo-doma/pechi_i_mangaly/pech-raketa-svoimi-rukami.html

DIY long-burning brick rocket stove: drawing, instructions, photo

A rocket stove made of long-burning bricks, despite its simplicity of design, can solve a number of problems for owners of dachas and private houses. These include not only heating and cooking functions, but also the creation original interior and comfort in the room.

Principle of operation

During the thermal decomposition of solid organic fuel, gaseous substances are released, which also decompose and turn into wood gas during combustion, which has a high level of heat transfer during combustion.

In conventional solid fuel stoves, wood gas goes into the pipe along with the gas, where it cools and settles on the walls in the form of soot. In a rocket-type furnace, due to the horizontal channel, gases move more slowly, do not have time to cool, but burn out, releasing a large number of heat.

In models of jet heating devices of complex design, heated air and gas pass through a number of internal channels. Then they move to the upper part of the body, under hob, where it burns completely. For such a rocket there is no need for additional boost. The draft in them is created by the chimney, and the longer its length, the more intense the upward flow.

Principle of operation

This diagram shows the operating principle of a rocket stove with a stove bench

Advantages and disadvantages

Rocket stoves long combustion have the following advantages:

high efficiency - at least 85%;
high speed of heating the room - 50 m² will become warm in less than 1 hour;
absence of soot - the exhaust during fuel combustion does not form soot, but is formed in the form of steam and carbon;
possibility of functioning on solid fuel any kind;
low consumption - the fuel consumption of a rocket stove is 4 - 5 times less than a conventional stove under equal conditions: combustion time and heating temperature;
the possibility of installing a warm bed;
Duration of heat retention in a well-heated structure without adding fuel - up to 12 hours.

This stove has many advantages, but there are also disadvantages

The disadvantages include:

manual method of controlling a heating device - fuel burns out quickly and requires regular reporting;
the high heating temperature of some structural elements threatens owners with burns in case of accidental contact;
the heating speed does not allow the use of a rocket stove for baths;
the aesthetic component of such a device is not for everyone and is not suitable for every interior;
danger of penetration carbon monoxide to living rooms.

Materials

Do-it-yourself building materials for the construction of a long-burning rocket stove are selected depending on the calorific value of the fuel. For laying the main part of the building, simple red stove bricks are usually used. The firebox and combustion bunker are lined with fireclay bricks.

If you plan to use high-calorie fuel (for example, coal), then refractory bricks are used for the construction of almost all parts of the structure. The masonry elements are fastened with an aqueous solution of a mixture of sand and clay.

Regardless of the type of design for a long-burning rocket stove, you will need to buy stove accessories:

blower;
grates;
firebox doors;
intermediate cap;
chimney pipe.

Tools

To build a rocket-type furnace with your own hands, you need to prepare in advance a set of tools for work, which should consist of:

trowels for scooping and distributing the solution. It is more convenient to work with a tool with the handle moved slightly to the side;
picks or hammers - picks for trimming individual parts of brick;
grinders with a diamond blade for sawing whole blocks into quarters and halves;
mallets with a rubber tip for leveling bricks in masonry;
twisted cord - moorings;
building level;
square and tape measure;
shovels.

You also need to stock up on two containers for preparing the solution, concrete and a metal mesh for sifting the ingredients.

How to do it yourself?

Before you make a rocket stove, you need to decide on the location of its installation, the dimensions of the future design, and develop a diagram. The masonry technology itself is quite simple; any novice builder can master it.

The simplest design of a rocket furnace can be built from 20 bricks per summer cottage and use it to heat food brought from home.

Selecting a location

Before starting construction, the first thing is to choose a location. It is recommended to place rocket-type brick kilns closer to front door. In this case, after cleaning, the ash will not need to be carried across the entire room, which will have a positive effect on the overall dustiness of the room.

It is also desirable that at the point where the pipe exits there are no rafters located closer to the chimney than 40 cm. Moreover, the stove should not be adjacent to the external wall of the house, so that expensive heat is not lost to heating the street.

Preparation of the solution

Cement mortar will quickly crack under the influence of high temperatures, so for laying heating devices made of bricks, only a mortar consisting of clay and sand is used.

Their proportions are determined experimentally, depending on the quality of the clay. Most often in a ratio of 1:2 or 1:3, and the higher the fat content of the clay, the less it is added to the solution.

First, the clay must be soaked, strained, and then sand must be added. The resulting solution should have a consistency similar to thick sour cream. You can check its viscosity level in the following way:

place a wooden stick or trowel handle into the mixture;
remove the tool and shake well;
check the thickness of the adhering layer: if less than 2 mm add clay, more than 3 mm add sand.

The preparation of the mortar must be approached with all responsibility, since only a plastic mixture of the required thickness can fill all the unevenness of the bricks and ensure their strong adhesion.

Laying a rocket furnace of 20 bricks

Ordering a rocket stove for 20 bricks

Example of a brick rocket stove

Laying a rocket stove with a stove bench

A brick rocket stove, even equipped with a stove bench, is small in size. The order shown in the figures (below) allows you to assemble the structure without using metal products. Only the doors will be made of iron. Subsequently, the body can be coated with clay to give it a more rounded shape.

Row No.	Number of bricks, pcs.	Description of the masonry	Drawing
1	62	Forming the base of the furnace	(click to enlarge)
2	44	Formation of the base of channels for heating the bed along the entire structure. Fastening mortgages for mounting a cast iron door
3	44	Repeating the outline of the second row
4	59	Complete channel blocking. Beginning of the formation of a vertical smoke channel and firebox
5	60	Construction of a bed	(click to enlarge)
6	17	Continuation of the laying of the smoke channel
7	18
8	14
9; 10	14	Formation of a smoke channel	(click to enlarge)
11	13
12	11	Beginning of laying the chimney pipe. This is where the channel begins, through which air from hob will go down to move to the bed
13	10	Completion of surface formation under hob. Laying an asbestos pad, which is covered with sheet steel.	(click to enlarge)
14; 15	5	Closing the chimney channel and forming a low wall between the stove bench and the hob.

After completing the masonry work, the homemade rocket stove must be dried, carefully, heating at low intensity. First, no more than 20% of the required amount of firewood is placed in the firebox, and the device is heated twice a day for 30 - 40 minutes.

According to this scheme, the stove is heated until it outside surface will not remove damp stains. Depending on the size of the device, drying may take from three to eight days. During this time, the room should be well ventilated, especially in summer.

Accelerating drying can lead to cracking of the masonry, that is, the device will become unsuitable for further heating.

Finished look

You need to launch a brick rocket stove only when the chimney is warm. For a small device, this property is not so significant, and a larger stove on a cold pipe only wastes firewood.

Therefore, to bake a rocket before loading the fuel quota after a long break in operation, you need to heat it with paper, dry shavings, straw, etc., placing them in a ash pit with the door open. When the hum in the stove decreases in pitch or subsides, then you can load all the fuel into the firebox; it should ignite by itself from the existing fire.

A rocket stove with a stove bench is not a completely self-regulating device for external conditions and fuel energy efficiency. Therefore, at the beginning of the fire with the normal amount of fuel, the ash door is left in the open position. After the stove begins to hum strongly, it is covered until the sound emitted is barely audible.

Only dry wood can be used to heat the stove; wet wood will not allow the stove to warm up to the required temperature, which can lead to reverse draft.

Conclusion

The brick jet stove is becoming an increasingly popular heating device for small buildings both temporary and permanent residence. This is explained by the simplicity of execution, low cost of material, long battery life and high heat transfer of this design.

Today, many types of stoves of various designs have been invented. For most of them, the rule applies: the higher the characteristics of the unit, the more skill and experience is required from the craftsman making it. But, as we know, there are no rules without exceptions. In this case, the destroyer of stereotypes is the rocket stove - a very well-thought-out, economical heat generator with a simple design that does not require any special skills from the performer. The latter circumstance explains the popularity of the “rocket”. Our article will help the reader understand what the highlight of this miracle of technology is and teach how to make it with your own hands from scrap materials.

What is a rocket stove and why is it good?

The rocket stove or jet stove received its impressive names only for the characteristic sound that it makes when the operating mode is violated (excessive air supply to the firebox): it resembles the roar of a jet engine. That's all, it has nothing more in common with rockets. It works, if you don’t go into details, the same way as all its sisters: wood burns in the firebox, smoke is thrown out into the chimney. Normally, the oven makes a quiet rustling sound.

Reaction furnace arrangement option

Where do these mysterious sounds come from? Let's talk about everything in order. Here's what you should know about the rocket stove:

By purpose it is a heating and cooking unit.

“Rocket” can be equipped with such an important and necessary element as a bed. Other types of stoves with this option (Russian, bell-type) are much more bulky and complex.

Compared to ordinary metal stoves The operating time on one load of fuel has been slightly increased - from 4 to 6 hours. This is explained by the fact that this heat generator is based on a top-combustion furnace. In addition, thanks to the presence of adobe plaster, the stove gives off heat for another 12 hours after firing.

The furnace was developed for use in field conditions.

Design advantages

Energy independence.

Simplicity of design: the most available parts and materials are used; if necessary, a simplified version of the rocket stove can be assembled in 20 minutes.

Ability to work with sufficiently high performance on low-quality raw fuel: bark, wood chips, thin raw branches, etc.

The operating principle of the rocket stove provides the user with a certain freedom in choosing its design. In addition, the unit can be constructed in such a way that only a small part of it will remain visible and, in terms of aesthetics, minimal damage will be caused to the interior of the room.

As you can see, the jet stove has something to brag about. But first of all, stove lovers are attracted by the combination of simplicity of design and good, although not the highest, characteristics when working on waste fuel. These very characteristics are the highlight of the “rocket”. Let's try to understand how we managed to achieve such indicators.

The efficiency of a solid fuel heat generator depends on many factors, but perhaps the most determining factor is the degree of afterburning of pyrolysis gases. They appear due to the thermal decomposition of organic fuel. When heated, it seems to evaporate - large hydrocarbon molecules break up into small ones, forming flammable gaseous substances: hydrogen, methane, nitrogen, etc. This mixture is often called wood gas.

Small rocket stove

Liquid fuel, for example, waste oil, breaks down into wood gas almost immediately and it burns right there - in the firebox. But with wood fuel the situation is different. The decomposition of solids into a volatile product suitable for combustion - wood gas - occurs in several stages, with intermediate stages also having a gaseous form. That is, we have the following picture: first, a certain intermediate gas is released from the wood, and in order for it to turn into wood gas, that is, to disintegrate even more, it is necessary to prolong its exposure to high temperature.

And the more humid the fuel is, the more “prolonged” the process of complete disintegration becomes. But gases tend to evaporate: in a conventional furnace, the intermediate phase is mostly sucked out by draft into the chimney, where it cools down without having time to turn into wood gas. As a result, instead of high efficiency, we get soot from heavy hydrocarbon radicals.

In a rocket furnace, on the contrary, all conditions are created for the final disintegration and afterburning of the released intermediate gases. In essence, a very simple technique was used: immediately behind the firebox there is a horizontal channel with good thermal insulation. The gases in it do not move as quickly as in a vertical pipe, and the thick heat-insulating coat does not allow them to cool. Thanks to this, the process of decomposition and afterburning is carried out more fully.

At first glance, this solution may seem primitive. But this simplicity is deceptive. Engineers and researchers had to tinker a lot with calculations in order to link the required thrust force with the optimal combustion mode and many other factors. Thus, a rocket stove is a very finely tuned thermal system, when reproducing it it is very important to maintain the correct ratio of the main parameters.

If the manufacture and adjustment of the unit were carried out correctly, the gases will move as expected, while emitting a slight rustling sound; if the regime is violated or the furnace is assembled incorrectly, instead of a stable gas vortex in the gas duct, an unstable one is formed, with numerous local vortices, as a result of which a roaring rocket sound will be heard.

Flaws

The reaction furnace is manually controlled, and the user constantly has to monitor and adjust it.

The surface of some elements heats up to high temperatures, so that if accidentally touched, the user may get burned.

The scope is somewhat limited. For example, a jet stove cannot be used in a bathhouse, since it is not able to quickly warm up the room.

One more circumstance should be taken into account. It cannot be considered a disadvantage of the stove; rather, it is important feature. The fact is that the “rocket” was invented in the USA. And the citizens of this country, where any idea can bring good money, are not as willing to share their work as was customary, for example, in the Soviet Union. Most drawings and diagrams that have become widespread do not show or are distorted vital information. In addition, we simply do not have access to some of the materials used in it.

As a result, home craftsmen, especially those who do not know the intricacies of stove making and heating engineering, often end up with a device that absorbs fuel in huge volumes and is constantly overgrown with soot instead of a full-fledged jet stove. Thus, complete information about the rocket stove has not yet become public property and overseas pictures should be treated with great caution.

Here, for example, is our popular jet furnace design, which many are trying to use as a model.

Drawing: how the stove works

Drawing of a mobile rocket oven

At first glance, everything seems clear, but in fact, much remains “behind the scenes.”

For example, fire clay is simply labeled with the term Fire Clay - without specifying the grade. The mass ratio of perlite and vermiculite in the mixture from which the body of the furnace (in the diagram - Core) and the lining of the element called Riser is not indicated. Also, the diagram does not specify that the lining should consist of two parts with different functions - a heat insulator and a heat accumulator. Without knowing this, many users make the lining homogeneous, which is why the performance of the furnace drops significantly.

Types of jet furnaces

Today there are only two types of furnaces of this type:

A full-fledged stationary heating and cooking rocket stove (also called a large one).

Small rocket stove: used for cooking in the warm season. Unlike the first option, it is portable and has an open firebox (it is intended to be used on outdoors). It is very popular among tourists, as it has a compact size and is capable of developing power up to 8 kW.

Design of a small rocket stove

As already mentioned, a jet stove is easy to manufacture, so we will consider a full-fledged option.

Design and principle of operation

The stove we will try to make is shown in the picture.

Rocket stove: frontal section

As you can see, its combustion chamber (Fuel Magazine) is vertical and is equipped with a tightly closing lid (prevents the leakage of excess air), as in a top-burning stove (the ash pit is designated the Primary Ash Pit). It was this unit that was taken as the basis. But a traditional top-burning heat generator operates only on dry fuel, and the creators of the “rocket” wanted to teach it to successfully digest wet fuel. To do this, the following was done:

The optimal size of the blower (Air Intake) was selected so that the amount of incoming air was sufficient to burn the gases, but at the same time they did not cool too much. In this case, the principle of top combustion provides some kind of self-regulation: if the fire gets too hot, it becomes an obstacle to the incoming air.

A well-insulated horizontal channel was installed behind the firebox, called the Burn Tunnel or flame tube. To hide the purpose of this element, it was marked on the diagram with a meaningless flame icon. Thermal insulation (Insulation) must have not only low thermal conductivity, but also low heat capacity - all thermal energy must remain in the gas flow. In the flame tube, the intermediate gas breaks down into wood gas (at the beginning of the section), which then burns completely (at the end). In this case, the temperature in the pipe reaches 1000 degrees.

Behind the fire tube was a vertical section called the Internal or Primary Vent. In diagrams, secretive Americans often designate this element with the meaningless term Riser. In fact, the primary chimney is a continuation of the fire tube, but it was placed vertically to create an intermediate draft, and at the same time reduce the horizontal part of the furnace. Like the fire tube, the primary chimney has a heat-insulating coating.

Note. Some readers familiar with the design of pyrolysis furnaces may think that it would be a good idea to supply secondary air to the base of the primary chimney. Indeed, the combustion of wood gas would be more complete, and the efficiency of the stove would be higher. But with this solution, vortices are formed in the gas flow, as a result of which toxic combustion products partially penetrate into the room.

A capacious heat accumulator capable of withstanding such temperatures is fireclay brick (withstands up to 1600 degrees), but the stove, as the reader remembers, was intended for field conditions, so a more affordable and inexpensive material. The leader in this regard is adobe (indicated in the diagram by the term Thermal Mass), but for it temperature limit is 250 degrees. To cool the gases, a thin-walled steel drum (Steel Drum) was installed around the primary chimney, in which they expand. You can cook food on the cover of this drum (Optional Cooking Surface) - its temperature is about 400 degrees.

To absorb even more heat, a horizontal chimney with a stove bench (Airtight Duct) was attached to the stove, and only then an external chimney (Exhaust Vent). The latter was equipped with a view that closes after heating: it will not allow the heat from the gas duct of the stove to evaporate into the street.

So that the pipe inside the stove could be cleaned from time to time, a secondary ash chamber (Secondary Airtight Ash Pit) with a hermetically sealed cleaning door was installed immediately behind the drum. The main part of the carbon deposits, due to the sharp expansion and cooling of gases, settles in it, so cleaning the external chimney has to be done extremely rarely.

Since the secondary ash chamber has to be opened no more than twice a year, instead of a door, you can use more simple design- screw-on lid with asbestos or basalt cardboard gasket.

Furnace calculation

Before talking about the dimensions of the oven, we draw the reader’s attention to important point. The square-cube law applies to all solid fuel heat generators. Its essence can be explained with a simple example.

Imagine a cube with a side of 1 m. Its volume is m 3 and its surface area is 6 m 2. The ratio of volume to surface area is 1:6.

Let's increase the volume of the body by 8 times. The result is a cube with a side of 2 m, the surface area of which is 24 m 2.

Thus, the surface area has only increased 4 times and now the volume to surface ratio is 1:3. In furnaces, the amount of heat released and its power depend on the volume, and heat transfer depends on the surface area. These parameters are interconnected, so you cannot thoughtlessly scale this or that furnace design, adjusting it to the dimensions you need - the heat generator may turn out to be inoperable altogether.

When calculating a rocket furnace, the internal diameter of the drum D is specified, which, as mentioned above, can vary from 300 mm (15 kW furnace) to 600 mm (25 kW furnace). This “fork” is precisely due to the square-cube law. We will also use a derived value - the cross-sectional area of the drum S: S = 3.14 * D^2 /4.

Table: main parameters

Table: maximum permissible length of the flue with a stove bench

Table: volume of the secondary ash chamber

We calculate intermediate values proportionally (interpolate).

Materials and tools

The furnace drum can be made from a standard barrel with a volume of 200 liters and a diameter of 600 mm. The square-cube law allows you to reduce the drum diameter by up to 50%, so for small oven this element can be made from a gas cylinder household use or tin buckets.

The blower, firebox and primary chimney are made of round or profile steel pipes. Significant wall thickness is not required - you can get by with a couple of millimeters - combustion in the furnace is weak. The chimney in a stove bench, through which gases flow in a completely cooled form, can generally be made from metal corrugation.

For thermal insulation (lining) of the furnace section, you will need broken fireclay bricks (fireclay crushed stone) and oven clay.

The outer coating layer (heat accumulator) will be made of adobe.

This is what freshly prepared adobe looks like

Thermal insulation of the primary chimney is made of light fireclay bricks (ShL grade) or river sand rich in alumina.

Parts such as lids and doors can be made from galvanized steel or aluminum. Asbestos or basalt cardboard is used as a sealant.

Preparatory work

Within preparatory work it is necessary to cut all available rolled products into blanks required sizes. If you decide to use a gas cylinder as a blank for the cap, you need to cut off the welded upper part from it.

Preparing a gas cylinder for use as a hood

Note! If there is gas left in the cylinder, it may detonate during cutting. For safety reasons, such containers are cut only after filling with water.

Note that in most cases, a rocket stove is made from a cylinder. Such a unit is capable of heating a room up to 50 m2. A “rocket” from a barrel only has to be used at full power in very rare cases.

From the barrel, if the stove is made from it, it is also necessary to cut off the top part. Next, two openings located opposite each other are cut out in the barrel or in the cylinder, through one of which the fire pipe will be inserted into the primary chimney, and the gas duct with a stove bench will be connected to the second.

Step-by-step instruction

Here is an approximate procedure that should be followed when making this stove:

Making a firebox

The firebox is welded using steel pipe or sheets. The firebox lid must close tightly. It should be made of a steel sheet, around the perimeter of which a strip of basalt cardboard is fixed with screws or rivets. For a tighter closure, the lid can be equipped with a screw clamping mechanism.

This is what the firebox and ash pan look like in a simple rocket stove

The ash chamber (indicated in the diagram as Primary Ash Pit) is separated from the main part of the firebox by a grate welded from a rod with a diameter of 8–10 mm. The grille should be installed on corner shelves that are welded to the inner walls.

The door of the ash chamber must also be airtight. It is made from a steel sheet, to which a steel strip is welded in two rows along the entire perimeter. An asbestos cord or basalt cardboard is placed in the groove between these strips.

All that remains is to weld the fire tube to the firebox.

Primary chimney

A 90-degree bend and a small section of pipe must be welded to the pipe that serves as the primary chimney, after which this L-shaped structure is placed inside a barrel or cylinder, that is, the future drum.

The outlet with a piece of pipe welded to it should be brought out into one of the openings in the lower part of the drum so that the primary chimney is located strictly in the center. Let us remind you that the upper cut of the pipe must be located at least 70 mm below the upper edge of the barrel (cylinder).

After centering the primary chimney, its horizontal tail, which was brought out into the opening in the drum, is welded to its edges with a continuous seam along the entire perimeter.

After this, the shank of the primary chimney is welded to the flame pipe, and a tire is welded to the drum on top.

A short piece of pipe should be welded to the second opening in the drum, which will act as a secondary ash pan. It needs a cleaning window. Along its edges, you need to butt-weld the studs to which the lid will be screwed (remember that we decided not to install the door in this place, since we have to open it quite rarely).

A strip of basalt cardboard should be secured along the perimeter of the lid with screws or rivets.

Chimney installation

We weld the horizontal part of the chimney to the outlet of the secondary ash pan, on which the stove bench will subsequently be installed. If the flue is supposed to be made of metal corrugation, then first you need to weld a short pipe to the ash pan, and then attach the corrugation to it using a clamp.

On final stage An external chimney is attached to the horizontal flue.

Furnace lining

The metal part of the stove is ready; now it needs to be properly plastered with heat-insulating and heat-accumulating compounds.

The lining of the combustion part (up to the primary chimney) should be done with a mixture of stove clay and broken fireclay bricks, taken in a 1:1 ratio.

Primary chimney lining

The materials used for lining the primary chimney - light fireclay brick or river sand - are porous, so when open they will quickly become saturated with soot and lose thermal insulation properties. To prevent this, the lining on the primary chimney is protected with a thin-walled steel casing, and the ends are coated with oven clay.

In accordance with the square-cube law, the ratio of the volume and surface area of the drum depends on its diameter, therefore the lining of the primary chimney is made differently depending on the size of the furnace. Three options are shown in the figure.

Primary chimney lining options

If the lining is made with fireclay bricks, the cavities between its fragments must be filled with construction sand. If river sand rich in alumina is used, you have to resort to more complex technology:

The sand is cleared of large debris (careful preparation is not required).

A thin layer is poured into the casing, compacted and wetted so that a crust forms.

Subsequent layers are poured in the same way. There should be from 5 to 7 in total.

The sand lining is dried for one week, then the top is covered with oven clay and the manufacture of the oven continues.

The last step is to coat all parts of the stove with adobe. It is prepared from the following ingredients:

clay;

straw (14–16 kg per 1 m 3 of clay);

sand (in small quantities);

water.

The straw to clay ratio shown is approximate. In some types of clay, more straw can be added, in others, on the contrary, its amount must be reduced.

Ways to improve the jet furnace

Instead of a couch on a gas duct, you can build a water jacket that will be connected to a water heating system. This part can also be made in the form of a coil of copper pipe wound around the chimney.

Scheme of a rocket furnace with a water circuit

Another method of improvement is to organize the supply of heated secondary air to the flame tube.

Drawing of a rocket stove from a cylinder with a secondary air supply

With this design, the efficiency of the stove will be higher, but soot will be more intensively deposited in the primary chimney. To make it easy to remove, the drum cover must be made removable. Naturally, it must be equipped with a seal.

An improved version of the rocket stove from a cylinder

How to fire a rocket stove

A rocket stove, like top-burning heat generators, operates at high performance only if its chimney is hot enough. Therefore, before loading the main fuel into the firebox, the unit must be warmed up well (unless, of course, there has been a long downtime and the stove has had time to cool down). To do this, use any “fast” fuel, for example, sawdust, paper, straw, etc., which is placed in the ash pit.

The subsidence of the hum or a change in its tone indicates that the stove is sufficiently warmed up and the main fuel can be added to the firebox. There is no need to set it on fire - it will flare up from the coals remaining after the burning of the “fast” fuel.

Melt the rocket stove through the firebox

A jet stove, like a Bullerjan, cannot adjust to external conditions and fuel quality. The adjustment must be made by the user. After adding the main fuel, the ash flap must be fully opened, and as soon as the unit begins to hum, close it until a rustling sound appears.

In the future, as the fuel burns, the damper has to be closed more and more, still achieving a quiet rustle. If you miss the right moment, an excess amount of air will begin to enter the furnace and pyrolysis in the fire tube will stop due to the cooling of the intermediate gas mixture. At the same time, the stove will remind you of itself with a “rocket” hum.

Video: how to make a long-burning jet stove with your own hands

They tried to create a jet or rocket stove that was extremely simple and would only benefit the home craftsman. However, as can be seen from our article, it is under no circumstances possible to make this heat generator at random - instead of a rocket, the master will receive an ordinary potbelly stove, very voracious and constantly overgrown with soot. It is important to observe all the given parameter ratios and then you will get a productive rocket stove with quite decent characteristics.

Imagine the situation: to heat a room at home or cook food, you need to quickly build a simple wood-burning stove. Fuel quality and consumption are secondary. Suitable option– a homemade rocket stove made from scrap materials. We invite you to familiarize yourself with the design of the heater and the assembly process at home.

Design and principle of operation

The rocket stove shown in the diagram consists of the following main elements:

a bunker for storing firewood of a vertical or inclined design;
horizontal combustion chamber;
pipe with lining - afterburner (the second common name is riser);
a metal cap that plays the role of an air heat exchanger;
blower;
chimney channel.

In operation, the stove uses 2 principles: the occurrence of natural draft inside the vertical section and the combustion of wood (pyrolysis) gases. The first is realized due to the heating of the firebox and waste combustion products tending to rise through the afterburner channel. The released pyrolysis gases burn out in it.

Reference. The name rocket or jet stove is associated precisely with the principle of operation - a powerful natural draft arises in the vertical channel, causing intense combustion in the firebox and the release of heat.

The stove operation algorithm is as follows:

Firewood loaded into the bunker is ignited from below. The air supply is provided through the blower hatch.
During the combustion process, flue gases heat the insulated walls of the afterburner and rush under the hood from thin metal where they give it most heat to the room air.
With a sufficient amount of secondary air, pyrolysis gases have time to burn inside the riser, releasing additional heat.
Combustion products are discharged directly into the chimney or first sent into the smoke circulation of the stove bench.

Options for portable stoves "Robinson"

In a simplified camping version, the stove is made without a hood and insulation. Accordingly, secondary gases do not burn completely, since they have time to fly out into the chimney. A small-sized portable heater, called “Robinson”, is designed for instant cooking food on fuel of any quality and degree of humidity.

Requirements for element sizes

The main heat exchange element of the rocket stove is a metal cap; the intensity of heating a room in the house depends on its size. In stationary structures made of brick, a 200-liter barrel with a diameter of 60 cm is usually used. Portable versions are made from standard gas cylinders Ø300 mm.

Diagram of a rocket heater with a stove bench

Accordingly, the remaining dimensions depend on the dimensions of the barrel - diameter and cross-sectional area:

the height of the cap is provided to be 1.5-2 times the diameter;
the cross-sectional area of the afterburner is 5-6.5% of the diameter of the barrel;
the length of the riser is made such that there is a minimum gap of 7 cm between the upper cut of the pipe and the cover;
the internal size of the firebox is equal to the cross-section of the afterburner, the ash duct is half as large;
chimney diameter is 1.5-2 times larger than the afterburner cross-section, height is at least 4 m.

To make it easier for you to calculate the diameters of pipes and linings, we present a drawing for various options rocket stoves - from a cylinder, barrel and old buckets (the riser is made of a round or profile pipe).

We make a stove - a rocket

The easiest way to make a light camping stove, shown in the drawing, is to find household the following materials:

round steel pipe with a diameter of 133-150 mm and a length of 0.5 m;
profile pipe 14 x 20 cm, length 0.4 m;
sheet of metal 2-3 mm thick for grates;
rod Ø8-10 mm for legs;
scraps of iron for the stand.

A vertical round pipe is welded to the profile at an angle of 45°, then eyes for the legs are attached to the body (they should be easily removed). A grate is placed inside the inclined firebox, and a lid is attached to the outside. To make it easier to clean the ash below, it is advisable to install a second door.

Advice. Be sure to weld a stand to the upper edge of the fire channel - gases must penetrate between the bottom of the dish and the body, otherwise “rocket” thrust will not occur.

Drawing of an improved version of the portable stove

The design of the furnace can be improved by organizing the supply of secondary air inside the flame tube. Modernization will increase the efficiency and duration of firewood burning. Drill holes on both sides on both sides, covering them with rocket “nozzles” according to the presented drawing. How this stove functions is demonstrated in the video:

From a gas cylinder

The following materials will be used to make a do-it-yourself rocket stove:

round pipes with transverse dimensions of 70 and 150 mm; with a wall thickness of 4 mm;
square corrugated pipe 150-200 mm in diameter;
chimney pipe Ø10-15 cm;
low-carbon steel (grade St20) sheet;
dense basalt wool (80-120 kg/m3) or bulk fire-resistant materials, for example, vermiculite or perlite gravel.

To begin, cut the rolled metal into blanks in accordance with the drawing. Then you need to saw off the lid of the propane tank, after unscrewing the valve and filling the tank to the top with water. Tool – ordinary grinder with a circle on metal.

Further assembly technology is as follows:

The master will tell you in detail about the manufacture of a rocket stove from a cylinder in the video:

Made of brick

The simplest rocket stove for cooking can be built from bricks without using mortar, as shown in the diagram with the order. Such a structure can be easily disassembled and moved if necessary.

The rocket stove with a stove bench must be placed on a foundation made of concrete or rubble stone. Material – ceramic or refractory brick, sand-clay or fireclay mortar, respectively. The finished base is covered with roofing felt for the purpose of waterproofing, then a continuous first row of bricks is laid. The further work order looks like this:

Important. The construction is carried out in compliance with the rules of stove masonry, described.

The length of the smoke channels inside the stove is limited by the draft in the rocket stove and the external chimney. It is better to keep the total length of the flue pipes within 4 m. To prevent the heater from smoking back into the room, raise the top of the chimney to a height of 5 m, counting from the grate. How to build brick stove– a rocket without a barrel, look at the video:

In conclusion - the pros and cons of the stove

Such structures are indeed made quickly, and the contractor does not necessarily have to be highly qualified. The first and main advantage of rocket-type furnaces is their simplicity and undemanding use of materials. In addition, they accept a variety of fuels well - raw firewood, branches, brushwood, and so on.

Now about the negative points:

For the above reasons, a rocket heater is extremely inconvenient for a garage, where it is necessary to heat the room quite quickly. But hiking option irreplaceable in nature at any time of the year.

Design engineer with more than 8 years of experience in construction.
Graduated from the East Ukrainian National University. Vladimir Dal with a degree in Electronics Industry Equipment in 2011.

In order for the reactive furnace to operate efficiently, the following rules must be observed when installing the structure:

The chimney must be at least twice as long as the horizontal or inclined section.
The fuel compartment must be the same length as horizontal section. Typically the firebox is installed at an angle of 45°, although there are designs with an angle of 90°. But they are less convenient in terms of fuel loading.
The cross-section of the chimney should not be smaller than the fuel compartment itself.

Device

Robinson factory camping stoves are made from a profile pipe with a cross-section of 150×100 mm. Homemade designs made the same size. In this case, the bunker is made of a profile pipe, and the chimney is made of a round pipe. In order for there to be normal draft, the chimney pipe must have a diameter no less than the cross-section of the firebox.

For this size of the fuel compartment, a chimney no longer than 90 cm is allowed. But such dimensions make the unit inconvenient for transportation, so it is better to limit it to a minimum of 60 cm.

A steel rod is used for the legs. They are threaded, making the supports easy to install and remove. However, after using the jet stove many times, it becomes quite sooty, so the process of screwing the legs is not very pleasant. However, other options are also common, where a steel sheet is used to make the stand or non-removable legs are installed. But this makes the structure larger and more inconvenient for transportation.

In Robinson factory ovens there is no provision for air supply to the combustion zone, and they also do not have an adjustable lid that changes air access. This point can be corrected in homemade stoves. A plate is welded inside the bunker for flammable substances, at the bottom of which there is a grate. Fuel is placed on a flat element. Air enters the combustion zone through the grate, and a damper can be installed at the top of the firebox, with which the air supply will be regulated. It is made somewhat smaller than the firebox and should not completely block the hole, otherwise air will stop flowing into the compartment and the fire will go out.

This design of a reactive furnace provides a number of advantages:

a small amount of solid fuel allows you to bring water to a boil in a short time, heat up food or cook simple dishes;
Robinson is not afraid of the wind, so the fire does not go out;
the jet stove is easy to install;
the device does not smoke or smoke;
factory models are made of high-quality metal and coated with heat-resistant paint that can withstand high temperatures;
fuel does not burn out too quickly;
the device allows you to dry firewood;
the design is stable and easy to use;
the rocket stove heats up quite quickly;
maximum surface temperature reaches 900 °C;
Thick steel (3.5 mm) ensures the durability of the device.

The price of the factory model is approximately 5 thousand rubles. But you can save money by making such a unit yourself. This task is doable if you have certain skills.

Manufacturing the Robinson stove

The simple design of the device allows you to make a rocket stove at home. The whole procedure will take only a few hours. It’s not difficult to find materials for the work, and you only need a few of them. The homemade unit is compact in size and easy to use.

The camping rocket stove is equipped with an important part that greatly facilitates the maintenance of the unit. This metal plate with grill, located at the bottom of the firebox. As a rule, it is made retractable, which allows you to remove the grate, put firewood on it and install it back. A similar plate also serves as a stand for long wood chips. In addition, with the grill removed, it is easier to clean the fuel compartment.

To make a reactive furnace with your own hands, you must use the following materials :

two square pipes 150×150×3 mm: one is 45 cm long, the second is 30 cm;
4 steel strips 300×50×3 mm;
2 steel strips 140×50×3 mm;
metal grid 300×140 mm (it can be made from a rod of the same material with a diameter of 3-5 mm and a length of 2.5 m).

The Robinson camping stove manufacturing technology includes the following operations:

DIY Robinson factory model

Making a rocket stove similar to the one produced in factories is not a difficult task. There are not so many structural elements in this model:

As for the dish stand, its configuration is not fundamentally important for the operation of the device. Therefore, this element can be done differently. In this case, it is important to follow the rule that the stand should not block the chimney opening, so as not to disrupt the draft.

In the model under consideration, 3 rings are cut in half and welded to a metal rod.

This design is more complicated than the previous one in that the cross-section of the box is rectangular, and the chimney is round. Therefore, it is important to correctly perform the operations of connecting two parts into one device. Generally The production technology is as follows:

It all starts with making a plate with a grid that will divide the bunker into two parts. To do this, pieces of reinforcement are welded to the flat element in increments of 10 mm.
The resulting part must be welded to the rear and side walls of the bunker. The distance from the bottom edge to the plate with the grid should be 30-35 mm. The part must be attached using a welding machine parallel to the bottom edge.
Then you need to carefully weld the joints of the walls together.
The bottom is attached to the resulting structure, and nuts are attached to it.
The top plate is welded to the back and side walls.
A cut at an angle of 30° is marked on the pipe. The unnecessary part is cut off.
The end that has acquired the shape of an oval must be attached to the upper section of the hopper. In this case, the pipe is placed at the very bottom of the upper plate and equidistant from the side walls. This element is outlined with a marker, and a hole is cut according to the markings. To do this, you can use a welding machine or a metal cutting device.
Then you need to attach a pipe to the resulting hole. A stand is installed on top of it, and the legs are screwed into the nuts. Now the rocket stove can be tested. After this, it is covered with heat-resistant paint.

Manufacturing a modernized Robinson furnace

The model described in the previous section can be improved with a door that is installed on the fuel hopper. But if you make the sash on hinges, it will simply tilt upward, which will not allow you to adjust the draft. Such a part can only be in the “closed” or “open” position. It will be much more effective to use a damper that moves vertically or horizontally. To install it, you need to weld small corners measuring 10x10 mm or 15x15 mm onto the hopper.

In addition, the following options for modernizing the furnace are noted:

the fuel hopper can be made of thicker steel, for example 5 mm;
replace the round chimney pipe with a square one;
for the stand, use a different design: as an option, take corners, balls or other elements that are at hand;
change the stand for the camping rocket stove, for which a metal plate and a piece of reinforcement can be used to make a leg.

To make a modernized stove, you will need the following: materials:

Square pipe with a cross-section of 160×160 mm and a length of 400 mm. The firebox will be made from it.
Square pipe with a cross-section of 120×120 mm and a length of 600 mm. It is needed to make a chimney.
A five-millimeter sheet of steel and a piece of reinforcement with a diameter of 7-8 mm. The element separating the fuel compartment and the ash duct will be made from them. The size of the part should be 300×155 mm.
Steel sheet 350×180 mm. This material is necessary for the manufacture of a stove stand.
Steel sheet measuring 160×100 mm.

Production technology for this model of camping stove is not fundamentally different from creating similar structures:

A metal plate with a grate must be welded to the walls of the bunker.
Then the back of the container is attached, and the chimney is attached on top.
When the entire structure is ready, a metal stand is welded to it from below, and an additional support is made from a piece of reinforcement. You can also use part of the vertical pipe that remains after cutting.
Pieces of corners are welded on top of the vertical pipe, which will form a stand for dishes. Its height should be 40-50 mm.
The hole in the fuel tank must be closed with a hinged door or a flap inserted into the corners.
The finished product can be tested. If everything went well, the welds are cleaned and the reaction furnace is coated with heat-resistant paint. This will not only give the product a more attractive appearance, but will also protect the metal from corrosion.

Bottom line

We can conclude that any of the proposed models can be made quite easily at home. Finding the necessary materials will not be difficult. The work itself is not very difficult for someone who has used a welding machine more than once and has some experience working with metal. It only takes a few hours to make a rocket stove. And the resulting product will become a useful item for lovers of outdoor activities outside the city.

In addition, such a rocket stove will allow you to heat a small country house and will be a good alternative to a full-fledged heating system. The operating principle of the Robinson jet stove allows you to significantly save on fuel.

Content

Portable and stationary rocket stoves (jet stoves) have proven themselves to be practical, energy-efficient devices. Heating and cooking units got their name because of the characteristic roar, reminiscent of the sound of a jet engine - it is heard when excess air enters the firebox. Operating in standard operating mode, the stove does not disturb the acoustic comfort in the room.

Homemade rocket stoves

Features of the reaction furnace

The first stove of this type was created for use in field conditions - a unit was needed for fast cooking and heating, and designed for operation in conditions of fuel shortage. The developers managed to find a solution that made it possible to produce a compact solid fuel stove with high efficiency.

Further modifications of the unit led to the invention of a stationary stove with a heated bench. Unlike the usual Russian stove, rocket stoves are not bulky and are easier to make yourself. The heat generator is capable of operating on one load of fuel for about 6 hours, while the stationary structure, for the construction of which adobe plaster is used, releases the accumulated heat within half a day after the firewood burns out.

Stationary design rocket stove with a stove bench retains heat for about 6 hours on one tab

Advantages of the design

The jet furnace is in growing demand because it is a non-volatile heat source that:

easy to install - a primitive version of a rocket stove can be assembled from scrap materials in half an hour;
works effectively even on fuel with low calorific value – raw firewood, thin branches, wood chips, bark, etc.;
provides heating and allows you to cook food;
completely burns fuel with afterburning wood gas, which minimizes the risk of carbon monoxide entering the room.

The design of the stove makes it possible to use it in the house without fear of causing damage to the thoughtful interior - the body of the stationary unit can be almost completely hidden in an attractive “shell”, which will serve as a heat accumulator.

To understand how good efficiency is achieved when working on low-quality fuel, you need to understand the operating principles of a jet stove.

During thermal decomposition, solid organic fuel releases gaseous substances, which also decompose and ultimately turn into wood gas (a mixture of combustible and inert gases), which burns with high heat output.

In an ordinary solid fuel stove, the thermal efficiency of wood gas is practically not used, since the gaseous intermediate phase goes with the smoke into the chimney, where it cools and settles on the walls in the form of carbon deposits, which are heavy hydrocarbon compounds. The higher the humidity of solid fuel, the less wood gas is formed and the more soot on the walls of the chimney. Accordingly, the worse the stove heats.

A rocket-type furnace differs from conventional solid fuel units in that its design makes it possible to provide conditions under which a significant part of the intermediate gases does not evaporate, but turns into wood and is burned. This is achieved due to a horizontal heat-insulated channel, where gases move more slowly than in a vertical pipe, and a thermal insulator prevents cooling and turning into carbon deposits. As a result, even from raw fuel, significantly more thermal energy is extracted compared to combustion in a conventional furnace.

In complex models of reactive heating units, the operating principle of a long-burning furnace, where afterburning of pyrolysis gases is provided, is combined with design features classic brick kilns, in which heated air and gas circulate through internal channels. At the same time, such a rocket does not need additional blowing - the chimney creates the thrust in it, and the higher it is, the more intense the upward flow.

Despite the fact that rocket stoves are capable of squeezing maximum thermal energy from low-quality fuel, optimal performance They demonstrate efficiency when using dry firewood.

Difficulties and disadvantages

The disadvantages include:

manual control of the stove - fuel must be added regularly (the burning time of the filling depends on the configuration of the heater);
some structural elements heat up to high temperatures and threaten to cause burns if they accidentally come into contact with the skin;
it is not rational to use a rocket as sauna stove, since it takes a long time to warm up the room.

The design of a jet stove looks extremely simple, but the invention of such a unit took a lot of time, since the key to efficient work is an accurate calculation so that the fuel combustion mode is optimally correlated with the traction force, etc.

Important! Rocket stoves are a heat engineering system that requires fine balancing. Failure to comply with the dimensions of the structure or errors in assembly, incorrect operating mode of the unit results in the stove roaring loudly during operation due to an unstable gas vortex in the chimney, requiring more fuel with low heat transfer and quickly becoming overgrown with soot.

The jet stove was invented in the USA, and the details of its construction are not disclosed - only corrected drawings are publicly available, based on which it is difficult to build a truly efficient heater.

Stove-bed at home

Models for outdoor and hiking use

Suitable for heating water and cooking food jet stoves the simplest modification, made of metal pipe or brick. They are easily made with your own hands for household needs.

To make a metal outdoor cooking stove, two pipes connected by an elbow at a right angle are enough. Legs made of reinforcing bars and a stand for dishes are welded to the structure (so that there is a gap between the bottom of the container and the cut of the pipe for smoke to escape).

Outdoor rocket stove made of pipes

This design can be improved by inserting another elbow with a pipe into the horizontal pipe, the height of which should be less than the chimney part - it will serve as a vertical firebox.

An even more functional modification - camp stove from a rectangular pipe with a firebox welded at an angle (it also serves as an ash pan). It is quite simple to make such a rocket oven with your own hands according to the drawings.

Robinson camping rocket stove with racks for dishes

To make the simplest outdoor reactive stove made of brick, you will need 5 minutes of time, 20 whole bricks and two more halves. Plus a metal stand for dishes.

Drawing of a Robinson stove with a stand for dishes

Such a stove must first be brought into operating mode - warm up the pipe, burning paper and wood chips, since gas stagnates in a cold pipe, preventing the fuel from burning well. When the pipe warms up, a powerful draft will appear when igniting the wood.

Jet stove made of bricks

Attention! A jet stove with a horizontal firebox has a significant drawback - it is necessary to constantly move the burning wood. An inclined or vertical loading hopper, along the walls of which firewood slides down under its own weight, makes the unit more convenient to use.

Heating and cooking stoves for premises

To heat a greenhouse, garage or workshop, you can also use jet units, which can be easily and quickly installed with your own hands.

An analogue of a primitive furnace made of a metal pipe is built from brick on earthen floor or a specially prepared foundation. A brick rocket furnace is mounted from solid ceramic or fireclay bricks using heat-resistant mortar.

Stationary brick oven on an earthen floor

A more efficient version of the heating rocket stove is made using a metal barrel, which serves as a casing and allows for insulation of the riser (the internal pipe that serves as the combustion chamber and chimney). Ash, sifted sand, and a mixture of sand and fireclay clay are used as insulation. Thermal insulation helps create conditions for the efficient production of wood gas, and the more it is released from the fuel, the higher the thermal output of a wood-burning stove. In addition, this thermal insulation material (it must be well sealed during installation) plays the role of a heat accumulator, capable of heating the air in the room for several hours after the firewood burns out.

Rocket stove made of 21 bricks

Improved heaters

A jet stove with a free gas outlet is not suitable for use as a heating stove, so it is supplemented with smoke exhaust channels and a heat exchanger. Drawings of a rocket stove of various designs help to clearly see the difference.

The operating principle of the improved unit is as follows:

In order to maintain a high temperature in the vertical channel, which promotes the production of wood gas, it is thermally insulated fire-resistant material, while a casing is installed on top (from a barrel or pipe larger diameter) with a hermetically sealed top;
the combustion chamber is equipped with a door, and a special channel is provided in the lower part for supplying secondary air - this air supply is required for afterburning wood gas (in simple models air enters only through the firebox without a door);
due to the installation of a chimney pipe in the lower part of the casing, the heated air does not escape directly into the atmosphere, but circulates through channels inside the furnace body, actively giving off heat;
flue gases with the highest temperature enter the upper part of the housing, directly under the flat lid, which makes it possible to use it as a hob, and the already cooled flow rushes into the chimney pipe;
The efficiency of the stove increases due to the intake of secondary air for combustion of pyrolysis gases, and the intensity of its supply is regulated by the system itself, since it depends on how quickly the flue gases cool in the upper part of the housing.

Advanced jet-type heating units include a long-burning rocket stove, which can be made from a gas cylinder, as well as a stove with a water jacket.

Jet heating unit from a propane cylinder

A rocket stove made from a gas cylinder is an easy-to-make wood-burning stove that uses fuel economically and effectively warms up the room.

For its assembly it is used:

empty propane cylinder (unit body);
steel pipe with a diameter of 100 mm (for arranging a chimney and a vertical channel);
steel profile pipe 150x150 mm (firebox and loading hopper are made);
sheet steel 3 mm thick.

Making a stove from a gas cylinder requires the use of a welding machine. If you plan to assemble such a rocket stove with your own hands, the drawings will help you accurately follow optimal sizes all structural elements.

Scheme of processes in a rocket furnace

On preliminary stage Before starting work, you should prepare a gas cylinder - turn off the valve, fill the container to the top with water to ensure that gas vapors that can explode from a spark are removed from the container. Then the top part is cut off along the seam. A hole is cut in the lower part of the resulting cylinder for the chimney, and in the bottom for the combustion chamber with an attached firebox. The vertical channel is brought out through a hole in the bottom, and a structure from a profile pipe is welded on the bottom side, according to the rocket drawing.

Attention! Cover from sheet metal should be made removable and a non-flammable seal (asbestos cord) provided for reliable sealing. The flat lid is used as a cooking surface.

If you are installing a rocket stove from a gas cylinder yourself, you should pay close attention to the quality of the welds and check their tightness - air should not flow uncontrollably into the working stove. If everything is in order, you can install the chimney.

Important! The top of the chimney must be raised to a height of 4 meters relative to the level of the firebox in order to ensure the required draft intensity.

Such a home stove is regulated in power by the volume of fuel loading. The jet stove is put into operation by supplying air through the combustion chamber; this is regulated by the hopper lid. Next, secondary air is constantly supplied to the unit. This heating stove explodes at the end of the combustion process, since it is impossible to shut off the supply of secondary air, and soot deposits on the inner walls of the vertical channel. The casing cover is made removable so that it can be removed periodically.

Boiler unit

A long-burning boiler can be obtained by installing a water circuit on the chimney of a stove made from a gas cylinder or other materials, but according to the same scheme indicated above. However, heating the water in the circuit of such a unit will be inefficient, since the main part of the thermal energy is transferred to the air in the room and to the containers on the hob.

An effective version of a rocket stove made from a metal barrel

If you want to create a rocket boiler for water heating with high efficiency, you will have to sacrifice the cooking function. A do-it-yourself rocket stove according to the drawing presented below can be installed in a short time.

This will require:

fireclay bricks and refractory masonry composition (for installing the base of the stove with a firebox);
steel pipe with a diameter of 70 mm (for a vertical channel);
steel barrel (for the casing);
fireproof heat insulator;
sheet steel 3 mm thick and metal barrel(or pipe) of smaller diameter than the casing (for arranging a water jacket and smoke channels for heating the water circuit);
steel pipe with a diameter of 100 mm for the chimney;
container, pipes and connecting pipes for arranging a heat accumulator.

A rocket furnace with a water circuit is characterized by the fact that the thermal insulation of the vertical channel provides optimal mode combustion of pyrolysis gases, while all the heated air enters the “coil” with a water jacket and releases the main part of the thermal energy there, heating the coolant.

Rocket stove with water circuit

The heat accumulator will continue to supply heated coolant to heating circuit even after the oven itself has cooled down. The container with water is equipped with a thick layer of insulation.

Heating unit with bench

A rocket stove with a stove bench is a device that can create a comfortable environment in one room. Such a unit cannot be used to heat several rooms, let alone the entire house.

Arranging such a long-burning unit with your own hands requires precise calculations - its power and maximum power depend on the size of the stove body. permissible length a hog on which a bed is arranged. It is also important to select the correct pipe cross-section for installation of the structure. Mistakes will result in the jet furnace becoming overgrown with soot in a short time or roaring loudly during operation due to turbulence in gas flows.

Design of a stove with a stove bench

Dimensions and proportions of the structure

To build a rocket stove with your own hands, you need to prepare detailed drawings, indicating the dimensions of all elements. At the project preparation stage, calculations are made based on the basic values to which all others are tied.

Basic calculated values are:

D – diameter of the drum (furnace body);
S is the internal cross-sectional area of the drum.

Calculations of design parameters are carried out taking into account that:

The drum height (H) ranges from 1.5 to 2 D.
The coating of the drum is carried out at 2/3 N (if its edge is planned to be shaped, then 2/3 of the height should be the average).
The thickness of the coating layer on the drum is 1/3 D.
The internal cross-sectional area of the vertical channel (riser) is 4.5-6.5% of S, the optimal value is in the range of 5-6%.
The height of the vertical channel is the maximum, as far as the furnace design allows, but the gap between the upper edge of the riser and the drum cover must be at least 70 mm for normal circulation of flue gases.
The length of the flame pipe (fire duct) must be equal to the height of the vertical channel.
The cross-sectional area of the fire pipeline is equal to the corresponding indicator of the riser. Moreover, it is recommended to use a square-section profile pipe for the fire pipeline; in this case, the stove operates more stable.
The cross-sectional area of the blower is ½ of the cross-sectional area of the firebox and riser. For stability and smooth adjustment of the furnace mode, a rectangular profile pipe with an aspect ratio of 2:1 is used, which is laid flat.
The volume of the secondary ash pan depends on the volume of the drum minus the volume of the riser. For a stove from a barrel - 5%, for a stove from a gas cylinder - 10%. For containers of intermediate volume, it is calculated according to linear interpolation.
The cross-sectional area of the external chimney is 1.5-2 S.
The adobe cushion under the external chimney should be 50-70 mm thick - if the channel is made of a round pipe, the counting is from the lowest point. The thickness of the cushion under the chimney is halved if the bed is mounted on wooden floors.
The thickness of the coating layer of the stove bench above the chimney duct is 0.25 D if the drum is from a 600 mm barrel, and 0.5 D if the drum is from a 300 mm cylinder. If you reduce the coating layer, the structure will cool faster after heating.
Smoke height external pipe should be from 4 meters.
The length of the flue, on which the length of the stove depends: for a stove from a barrel - up to 6 m, for a stove from a cylinder - up to 4 m.

A long-burning rocket stove made from a 600 mm diameter barrel reaches a power of about 25 kW, and a heating rocket made from a 300 mm barrel reaches up to 15 kW. The power can be regulated only by the volume of fuel; such a stove does not have air regulation, since the additional flow disrupts the stove mode and provokes the release of gases into the room. Changing the position of the blower door regulates not the power, but the operating mode of the furnace.

Lining features

The quality of the riser's thermal insulation directly affects the efficiency of the heating unit. In our area, lightweight fireclay bricks ШЛ and river sand with an admixture of alumina are available for lining. The lining should have an external metal casing, otherwise the materials will quickly absorb carbon deposits and the furnace will roar during operation. The end of the lining is tightly covered with oven clay.

Proper execution of lining

When using hewn fireclay bricks, the remaining cavities are filled with sand. If only sand is used for lining, it is sifted to remove large debris and covered in layers - each approximately 1/7 of the height of the pipe. Each layer is compacted tightly and sprinkled with water to form a crust. The backfill must be dried for a week, and then the end must be covered with a layer of oven clay. Then the construction of the rocket furnace with your own hands continues according to the drawings.

Heating unit options

Setting up a rocket stove from a gas cylinder can also be done if you create a heater with a stove bench. The design is somewhat different from the one discussed above.

The changes concern:

flame tube length;
presence of thermal insulation of the vertical channel;
connecting a horizontal rather than vertical external chimney.

Rocket stove diagram

Note! The expanded part of the external chimney is the ash pit, into which there must be access for cleaning - a metal door sealed with non-combustible material.

Due to the fact that the chimney channel can be made long and curved, the stove can easily be given its original shape.

Option for making a stove-bed with original form

The adobe coating, which acts as a heat accumulator, is made from a mixture of fatty clay with sand and chopped straw.

Principles of starting a stove

Important! Continuous combustion jet stoves are launched exclusively “on a warm pipe”.

Before loading standard fuel, kindling is done with paper, shavings, straw and other dry light materials, which are placed in an open ash pit. When the vertical channel warms up sufficiently, the hum of the furnace subsides or changes tone. This is a signal that you can add the main fuel; it will flare up from the booster.

A jet stove will not regulate itself, so the hopper lid of a small stove or the ash door of a stationary unit should be kept open until the standard fuel ignites and the stove hums. The door is closed, trying to reduce the sound to a “whisper”. When the sound of the stove increases again, close the door again a little more tightly. If the door slams shut, then lifting it can allow the fuel to burn normally.

A mobile rocket stove is a convenient travel option, undemanding in terms of fuel and economical. Stationary units, depending on the design and size, are used for heating residential and auxiliary premises.