Concrete pavement. Do-it-yourself blind area: step-by-step instructions and tips for construction. Why the blind area can become unusable

Saving on construction is a difficult stage, where the edge of quality / cost is important, so that in the future it will not go bankrupt for repairs, and at the same time, it is quite comfortable to feel comfortable during the operation of the structure.

The blind area should be built after the foundation, basement, walls, roof have already been finally built. Although, the blind area can be built at almost any stage of construction, after the walls have been laid. But the blind area after all stages of construction will cost the cheapest and least time-consuming, because in this case you save on calculations and errors, and the formwork can also be built from only three sides.

A concrete blind area from 70 cm around the whole house will be the most simple option. For the construction of a high-quality blind area, it is necessary to take into account a number of rules:

1. The width of the blind area should be greater than the protruding part of the roof, as a rule, by at least 20 cm. This is done so that moisture dripping from the roof does not deform land plot, which actively affects the quality of the foundation.
2. The blind area should be continuous, monolithic around the entire house. Only in this case, the foundation will be safely protected from moisture, which, however, does not exclude waterproofing in any case.
3. A wider blind area is also more functional in terms of moisture protection.
4. The slope of the blind area will optimally provide a tap at 1.5 degrees. You can do more slope, but remember that it is possible to slip on a steeper slope in winter. The slope is formed at the stage of the underlying layer, it is also possible at the stage of laying the coating.
5. The blind area, made in accordance with all the rules, determines the quality, economy and lack of repair for a long time, both the blind area and the basement.

1. The underlying layer is an even compacted base for the coating. For him, materials such as clay, fine gravel, sand are used. The material of the underlying layer directly depends on the coating material used. Thickness up to 2 cm.
2. The coating must perform the task of complete waterproofness and resistance to the damaging effects of water. Use clay, concrete, asphalt, small cobblestone. Layer thickness up to 10 cm.

These layers are necessary for any blind area.

In our case, the width of the blind area is 100 cm. The soil along the entire perimeter of the house must be removed to a depth of 20-25cm. As a rule, the soil is removed here at the very beginning of the construction of the house. Dig should be under the entire width of the blind area of ​​1m. The calculation is also carried out from the material with which the blind area is laid. With respect to the blind area of ​​concrete, a depth of 20-25 cm is needed, with respect to other materials - a different depth.

Some developers recommend immediately after digging a trench around the house, level the floor and walls, and then immediately cover them with herbicides. So that the roots of the plants do not then grow and do not damage the blind area. This is your own choice.

The formwork is made from boards. As a rule, boards 2 cm thick are used for this.

On the soil that we compacted, a layer of clay a few centimeters should be laid. Then, it is necessary to level the layer and compact it.

A layer of sand is laid with a thickness of 10 cm. It also seals very well. To make compaction easier for yourself, dampen the sand with water. But not abundantly, so that the water does not reach the clay.

Then, there is a layer of rubble in 5-10cm.

In order to strengthen the blind area - reinforce it fiberglass reinforcement with gaps at the joints of 10 cm. Reinforcement makes it possible to achieve stability of concrete not only in compression, but also in tension. Land displacement occurs frequently, so reinforcement is required in any case.

At the junction of the blind area with the walls of the basement, a seam must be made. It's called compensation. Also, this seam is called deformation or temperature. This seam will protect the basement and blind area from soil subsidence and further destruction. In this case, the blind area will go down, but when moving, it will not damage the base, since all the mechanical impact will fall on the seam. The width of such a seam is up to 1.5 cm. It should be made from a mixture of fine gravel and sand, bitumen, mastic, or two layers of roofing material. Someone even uses a tourniquet made of polyethylene foam. The diameter of such a bundle is a quarter larger than the width of the seam. Thus, the jute fits very tightly into the gap for the seam.

Features when placing the tourniquet - it must go into the gap completely, and leave some space on top. Those. there should be a depth free from everything on top, which is equal to half the width of the seam. A piece of plywood will allow you to carry out this process faster.

In our case, a simple sealant was used.

Filling the blind area should be done every 2 meters across the expansion joint. They keep the blind area from tearing in the winter. Wooden slats placed on edge are perfect for these purposes. The surface of the rails should be flush with the surface of the blind area. The slope of the blind area should also be taken into account, and therefore, place the slats either under the slope, or make the slats pre-oblique on the edge, to match the slope. To protect wooden inserts from rotting, they should be treated with bituminous mastic.

Expansion joints should also be installed in the corners of the house. Those. at the corners of the blind area.

Concrete, in addition to pouring, should also be compacted and leveled. Reiki will help you navigate the height of the concrete pour. It remains to wait until it completely hardens.

Ironing gives the greatest strength to the formwork. Ironing, performed by the wet method, will help the blind area to achieve the greatest water resistance.

The last step is to cover concrete surface fabric material, gradually, as it dries, wetting the fabric with water. This will help keep the concrete from drying out until it has completely hardened. If you have to lay the blind area during the rainy season, then you can do without moisture.

After 2 weeks, the blind area will be ready.

With the correct laying of the foundation, basement and blind area of ​​​​the house, for many years you will not have any problems. But what if they appeared? For example, the blind area is cracked? Yes, even significantly.

Small cracks will be enough to fill the stakes concrete mix in a ratio of 1:1.

Cracks of larger sizes should be cut down to the entire depth of their formation, the recess should be cleaned of dust, dirt and other debris, and filled with liquid mastic (2/3 bitumen, BND-90\130, 10% crushed slag and 15% asbestos material). Then sprinkle the filled cracks with any sand.

If the destruction of the blind area turned out to be even more significant, then it should be fully restored, with the help of a fresh portion of concrete and a couple of simple manipulations. The surface must be cleaned of dirt and primed. For the latter, a cement mortar is suitable. Lay the fresh mixture and level it. Then, it is necessary to prevent the fresh concrete mixture from drying out until it is completely cured. Those. stably moisten it, at the slightest drying, and cover with a film of polyethylene.

Repair of the blind area is best done in spring period or autumn. Need cool weather. During the summer period - you should choose the morning as the most prosperous time for work. Because due to high temperatures the concrete will expand and the cracks will shrink. In winter, concrete work is not possible.

Do not forget that the brand of concrete also affects the strength level of the blind area. It is easy to find a 500 brand of cement on sale, which we then divide into the desired proportions. With the highest density of 500 marks, the blind area will turn out to be very strong, and it will really last for decades. If only because it is the 500 grade of cement that is used for the construction of large bridges and tall buildings over 30 floors.

Video instruction for the construction of the blind area

A blind area is a single continuous covering encircling a house or other building around the perimeter. The arrangement of the blind area is one of the final stages of construction, i.e. it is done after the construction of the building. If the developer has planned to finish the basement with plaster, tile, brick or other material, the blind area is constructed after the completion of the said event.

Helpful advice! With the implementation of all tasks related to the arrangement of the blind area, it is necessary to cope before the arrival of cold weather.

For the manufacture of the structure in question, a variety of materials can be used: paving stones, asphalt, tiles, etc. The most widespread among private developers was the blind area made of concrete. This material characterized long term service, high operational and technical characteristics and relatively affordable cost.

Blind area around the house
The blind area is concrete

Stone pavement
Brick pavement

Many owners are not fully aware of the importance of the blind area, considering it exclusively decorative element landscape. Along with this, such a coating performs a number of significant practical functions. After reviewing the information below, you will find out why a blind area is needed, what materials can be used to equip it and how to make such a coating on their own.

As noted, the decorative function of the blind area is one of the main, but far from the only one. You can find information about the purpose of the design in question in the following table.

Table. blind area functions

Design features and requirements for the blind area

The design of the blind area includes 2 main layers. The first one is underlayment. Its main function is to create a dense, reliable foundation for the overlying layer. The underlying layer can be made with or without a slope. For the manufacture of this ball of construction, it is allowed to use crushed stone, gravel, sand. The recommended thickness of the underlying layer is about 2 cm.

Sometimes the soil around the building is additionally treated with special chemicals- herbicides. The use of such eliminates the growth of plant roots and grass in the future, thereby minimizing the risk of violating the integrity of the supporting structure of the house.

The top layer is a coating that provides a decorative function and protection of the foundation from water. Thickness - up to 100 mm. For the manufacture of the upper ball, asphalt, paving stones, concrete and other materials are used.

In addition to the above, the blind area includes other important layers. The structural features of the structure can be found in the following image.

In order for the blind area to fully cope with the tasks mentioned earlier, in the process of its arrangement it is necessary to ensure compliance with a number of important requirements.

1. Firstly, the width of the blind area should exceed that of the roof overhang. When arranging a site on sandy soil, it is recommended to make its width 25-30 cm larger than the cornice (the total width, in this case, should be more than 60 cm). In most cases, the total width of the blind area does not exceed 80 cm, but when working on heaving type soils, the mentioned indicator increases to an average of 100 cm.

   

   Blind areas: a - clay gravel; b - concrete; c - asphalt; g - cobblestone; 1 - compacted crushed stone 20 mm; 2 - clay; 3 - cement screed 15 mm; 5 - concrete preparation 100 mm; 5 - asphalt 15-20 mm; 6 - crushed stone 10 mm; 7 - cobblestone; 8 - sand preparation 50 mm

   

2. Secondly, the blind area must be done with a slope in the direction of the site. The specific value of the slope is selected taking into account the characteristics of the finish coating. For example, in the case of a concrete blind area, a 3-10 degree slope from the walls is made. The minimum allowable slope value, regardless of the material used, should be 1.5 degrees.

   

   

3. Thirdly, the blind area should be continuous, encircling the structure around the entire perimeter. Intervals are strongly discouraged - overall quality structures will be significantly reduced.

   

4. Fourthly, the blind area cannot be associated with the foundation - these systems are characterized by varying degrees of settlement. In view of this, a minimum expansion joint of 1-1.2 cm must be maintained between the supporting structure and the surrounding surface. It can be filled with bitumen, sealed with sealant, filled with geotextiles and similar materials, or covered with sand.

   

   

   

Varieties of blind areas and their purpose

Depending on the material of manufacture, design features, service life and a number of other indicators all existing varieties blind area can be classified into 3 main groups. Information about them is presented in the table.

Table. Types of blind area

The most optimal type of coatings in terms of cost, quality and appearance are semi-rigid blind areas. They serve up to 20-30 years, are suitable for use in almost all climatic zones, with the possible exception of permafrost, are characterized by high maintainability and require relatively little resources for their development.

An additional advantage of semi-rigid blind area is an attractive appearance. For example, by making a cover of paving slabs, the owner gets at his disposal a very beautiful playground, which is no different from the traditional garden paths. At the same time, semi-rigid blind areas are equipped in the same order - only the material of the finishing coating differs (usually it is paving stones or paving slabs).

Prices for paving slabs

paving slabs

The underlying layer (pillow) is made in the same order, regardless of the type of blind area chosen (the only exception is a monolithic concrete system, related issues will be considered separately).

As you can see in the image, the pillow consists of soil, clay and sand. In the case of a soft gravel blind area, a layer of crushed stone is poured on top. If a semi-rigid blind area is being built, a layer of gravel and an additional layer of sand are poured over the pillow shown in the image, after which tiles / paving stones are laid. In the case of pouring a hard site, a sand and gravel pad is equipped, sand and gravel are poured, insulation is laid, reinforcement is performed and a number of other activities are carried out prior to pouring the concrete mix, which will be discussed separately in the corresponding section of the manual.

Sand cushion under the blind area
Rubble pillow

The arrangement of the pillow is described in the table.

Table. Do-it-yourself blind area pillow

The pillow is ready. The further procedure is determined by the features of the type of blind area chosen by the developer. We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the instructions for arranging the most common options for the design in question.

Soft crushed stone blind area

In fact, the pillow described above can be considered as a soft blind area made of gravel. To broaden your horizons, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with an alternative arrangement for such a design using additional waterproofing material.

Pre-dig a trench and fill in a layer of sand, leveling it and setting the required slope, as in the above instructions, then follow the steps below.

Table. Soft blind area

Temporary soft gravel blind area is ready. If desired, you can hide the formwork boards with decorative borders.

Prices for crushed stone

Basic information

As noted, the technology for arranging the blind area with top coat in the form of paving stones and tiles remains the same. The choice of a particular material is up to the owner, but there are a few important considerations.

So, the use of paving stones is permissible only if the foundation has previously been waterproofed. Among the shortcomings of paving stones, one can only note a relatively high cost.

Tile is one of the most popular materials widely used in arranging the blind area. This option has a number of significant advantages:

• tiles are much cheaper than concrete in the amount necessary to fill the site;
• the material is presented in a huge range of size variations, colors and shapes, which allows you to get exactly the finish option that the owner wants to see it;
• tiles can be laid on their own, spending relatively little time on this - you definitely won’t have to wait 3-4 weeks until the concrete hardens.

Prices for paving stones

paving stones

What tile to use?

When choosing a tile for the blind area, follow the tips below.

Council the first. To perform the work in question, tiles made using the vibrocompression method are best suited. By purchasing such material, you significantly reduce the risk of acquiring a fake for yourself, because. the manufacture of this finish in artisanal conditions is impossible - for the production of tiles of this group, serious expensive industrial equipment is used.

Vibrocast tiles (the second popular variety) are relatively easy to make in an ordinary garage. It costs less, but the actual quality of such products usually remains a mystery.

Tip two. Pre-prepare a plan for the future arrangement of tiles on paper or in a special computer program- so you can choose the picture you like best and make it easier for yourself to continue the work. If you wish, you can use one of ready-made options shown in the images.

Tip three. Choose tiles for paving the blind area that will go well with other paths and other areas with similar finishes located on the site.

Paving technology

You have already made a pillow for the blind area. Further work is performed in the sequence shown in the table.

Table. Do-it-yourself tile blind area

Important note! Many developers insist that a layer be poured before laying paving stones / tiles cement screed. We advise you to lay the finish directly on the compacted sand - in this case, more efficient water drainage through the gaps between the tiles down will be ensured. In the case of the arrangement of cement pouring, the permeability of the system will decrease, and this threatens the appearance of ice in the cold season and all the attendant troubles.

If, due to any circumstances, a blind area without the use of a cement screed is not possible, after filling the sand layer, do the following:

• prepare a mixture of 1 share of cement (from M400), 3 shares of sand (sifted, fine, river) and clean water in an amount sufficient to obtain a homogeneous plastic solution of medium density;
• spread the solution over the surface of the site to be equipped using a trowel or any other the right tool, then level it with a mop or a long straight rail (rule). The final thickness of the cement layer should be 30-40 mm.

After waiting for the cement to dry, proceed to laying the tiles. It is most convenient to use glue designed specifically for fixing the considered finishing materials. Check the manufacturer's instructions for the preparation and proper use of the adhesive - for different compositions, these points may differ.

Some developers even accept a cement-filled structure without subsequent finishing as a finished blind area.

This option is possible, but its appearance does not satisfy everyone. If desired, special coloring pigments can be added to the cement composition - the surface will take on a more attractive appearance.

Concrete pavement

An option for owners who are accustomed to doing everything thoroughly and for a long time. Having once spent a relatively significant amount on the arrangement of a concrete blind area, you will have at your disposal a durable, reliable and most durable structure.

We will talk about the procedure for arranging an insulated reinforced concrete blind area. The presence of a heat-insulating layer will have a beneficial effect on a number of key operational and technical characteristics of the foundation, basement and the entire structure as a whole. If you wish, you can exclude the steps that affect the installation of insulation from the manual and use the same instructions, but it is strongly not recommended to refuse thermal insulation.

Insulated blind area made of concrete - photo of layers
Concrete pavement - scheme

Ideally, the width of the insulated blind area should correspond to or exceed the depth of soil freezing. In practice, a device of a similar design, firstly, will require very large financial investments, and secondly, it will take away the usable area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe site. In view of this, developers adhere to the "golden mean", which is 700-900 mm.

Before starting work, you need to choose a suitable thermal insulation material. In order for the choice to be as objective and correct as possible, it is necessary to take into account a number of significant points.

1. Firstly, this is the ratio of the cost of insulation and its characteristics.
2. Secondly, the operating conditions (in the ground, outdoors, i.e. the material should not rot).
3. Thirdly, the climate at the location of the building.

Taking into account the above criteria, the most optimal material for insulating the blind area is foam. Extruded polystyrene foam performs even better, but it costs more. For most regions of the Russian Federation, a 5-centimeter layer of insulation is sufficient. In particularly cold areas, this figure can be increased to 10 cm. In this case, it is better to equip the insulation in 2 layers.

The composition of the pillow for the concrete blind area remains similar to the previous designs, but the sequence of actions undergoes certain changes.

First of all, you need to understand the nuances of lateral insulation of the structure. If the impossibility of subsequent dismantling of the wooden formwork does not bother you (for example, the subsequent decoration of visible structural elements with special borders or other suitable elements is planned), you can simply glue the insulation boards to pre-assembled boards using a binder composition designed specifically for polystyrene foam materials.

In addition, available Alternative option: slate sheets are wrapped in plastic wrap and deepened into the ground along the blind area. If such a design remains in sight after the event in question, it will be much easier to disguise it than wooden elements. This system looks like this.

Improvised formwork with heat-insulating material installed along the entire length of the blind area. Bricks can be used as supports or building blocks by placing them on the ground from the back of the formwork. Will be shown in the following photos.

The foam plastic will already stand quite confidently on a pre-compacted base, while it will be supported by the materials that are poured further. For greater confidence, you can bury the plates in the ground for a couple of centimeters or glue the insulation to the slate. It is not worth using mechanical fasteners - each hole in the slate leads to a decrease in its strength, and in the foam - to the formation of cold bridges.

From the insulation, in this case, you can make a damper layer between the basement of the house and the blind area. With the help of a separating layer, you can ensure that the slope of the formwork is maintained: for this, it (the damper) must have a greater height in relation to the opposite wall.

After installing the side heat-insulating plates, make the pillow discussed earlier. Its composition will be the same as when arranging the blind area with subsequent paving with paving slabs.

Table. Do-it-yourself concrete pavement

Helpful advice! Before pouring the concrete mixture, cover the parts of the insulation protruding above the ground with a fiberglass mesh. To fasten it with foam, ordinary PVA glue is suitable. The presence of a mesh will protect the insulation from possible damage.

In this case, it was decided to abandon the intermediate transverse damper partitions from the boards (described earlier). The structure is insulated in 2 layers and on the sides, which is why the thermal insulation simultaneously takes on the function of dampers, and it is better not to break the reinforcement - the strength will decrease.

concrete mix prices

concrete mix

Drainage Issues

To ensure the effective removal of atmospheric precipitation, the blind area is equipped with a drainage system. The design is elementary in its execution:

• an asbestos-cement pipe with a diameter of 10 cm or more is cut lengthwise into 2 parts. A grinder is suitable for cutting;
• the resulting halves of the pipe are laid along the perimeter of the blind area close to it;
• in the corners of the blind area at the junction of the pipes mentioned above, solid drainage systems are placed. The same asbestos-cement pipes will do. To accommodate them, trenches are dug. Choose the dimensions of the pit so that at least 5 cm of free space remains on the sides and top of the pipe. At the bottom of the trench, first fill in a 5-centimeter layer of sand and tamp. The pipes themselves are wrapped in geotextile and diverted towards the wastewater collection structure. The exact option depends on individual characteristics arrangement of the site.

The described drainage looks like this:

To improve the appearance of the concrete blind area, it can be tiled or decorated with other material of the owner's choice.

Successful work!

Video - Do-it-yourself blind area

How to make a blind area around the house with your own hands in short time? The blind area is carried out in two layers - the underlying layer and the overlap. The underlayment is required to obtain a compacted level base for laying the pavement. This layer is made of crushed stone, sand, carving or clay. The last option is considered the best.

Underlayment material selected depending on coverage. Thickness - from 20 to 30 centimeters.

The cover must be waterproof. It is made of paving slabs, concrete, clay, small cobblestones and asphalt. It happens that the blind area is made from a mixture of clay and sand, or clay with rubble. Thickness - from 5 to 15 centimeters.

Types of blind area

There are several types of blind area, depending on the material used in the manufacture:

• concrete;
• cobblestone;
• from concrete slabs;
• ground;
• brick;
• asphalt.

Work performance technology

How to make a blind area around the house with your own hands? You should start with excavation. A trench is dug around the perimeter of the building, its depth should be approximately 30 cm.

The integrity of the blind area can be disturbed by the roots of plants, so the soil should first be treated with herbicides. Then, a removable formwork or curb stone is placed along the width of the blind area. Under a slope in the trench, the underlying layer is laid.

Laying concrete pavement

Concrete construction is the most common type of coating.

It is worth noting that in case of severe frosts, the blind area can fail. To prevent this from happening, rails are mounted on the edge across the blind area every 3 meters, they must be treated with bitumen in advance. Next, the solution is poured with concrete and leveled.

Concrete reinforcement helps to increase the operational life of the blind area. In this case, concrete performs work in compression, and metal in tension. A metal crate is installed in increments of 100 by 100 millimeters. Further along the level, cement mortar is poured.

The finished surface is covered with dry concrete and leveled. Then it is covered with a dark film and left for a week, periodically watered.

How to inexpensively make a blind area around the house? If there is a desire to reduce costs, it is worth giving preference to the blind area of ​​reinforced slabs. Their shape is chosen depending on the structural features of the roof and the characteristics of the site. The best option- slabs 60x60 centimeters.

When using ready-made slabs as a coating, the work becomes much easier. After laying them on a pre-prepared surface, the seams are filled with mortar. If this is necessary, the blind area is insulated with heat-insulating materials.

The construction of insulation and slab is placed in such a way that under it is air bag. As a basis for it, bitumen-impregnated and carefully compacted crushed stone serves.

Slope and Width

When erecting a blind area, it is necessary to observe the required slope and width.

In subsiding soil width can be more than 1 meter, on average it is 80 centimeters. At the same time, it should be 20 centimeters larger than the overhang of the eaves.

Slope from the wall building and to the storm drain should reach approximately 5 °. A storm drain is a groove along the perimeter of the blind area, necessary for drainage. Instead, you can build a channel that collects water in a storm well.

Waterproofing and insulation

In the event that your house has a basement or ground floor, it is necessary to carry out waterproofing and insulation of the blind area. Waterproofing materials suitable for this purpose are bituminous mixtures, PVC and polyethylene films, ruberoid.

under waterproofing layer insulation is installed on the ground.

It can be expanded polystyrene, foam glass and other materials.

The main functions of the blind area

• practical function. If the blind area will act as a pedestrian zone, then it should be performed taking into account the characteristics of the object and design loads.
• Protective function. A high-quality blind area reliably protects the foundation of the building from melt water, precipitation, and deformation. It transports water a sufficient distance from the foundation.
• decorative function. The blind area is a logical continuation of the building. The finishing layer is selected taking into account the style of the house and the design of landscape design.
• Warming. Thermal insulation properties buildings, if there is a blind area with an insulation structure, rise.

In order for the blind area to fully fulfill its purpose, you have to follow some rules:

1. The slope is formed both during the laying of the coating and during the installation of the underlying layer.
2. Pay attention to the junction of the wall of the house and the blind area. There should be an expansion joint. Best result obtained in the presence of two layers of special sealant or roofing material and sealant.
3. The blind area should be performed around the entire house continuously. Only in this case the base will be reliably protected.
4. The cheapest option for covering is crushed stone laid with tamping. The most reliable is pouring compacted rubble with cement mortar.

So, building the right blind area around the house with my own hands under the power of everyone.

However, before starting work, should decide on the type of blind area It depends on what materials you need. Do not forget about observing the width and slope. If the building has a basement or basement, insulation and waterproofing will be required.

The blind area surrounding the house plays very important role in ensuring long and comfortable use at home. It provides protection for the foundation structure and the soil around it from water ingress. The accumulation of moisture near the house when snow melts or during precipitation can erode the topsoil and reach the foundation. If she manages to seep to the sole of the foundation and damage it, then its bearing capacity and strength will be reduced, which as a result can cause the destruction of the house. It is especially important to correctly use a shallow base, in which the sole is close to the surface, which is why moisture can easily reach its depth.

The width of the blind area should be as wide as possible, as it should protect the base.

As a result of soaking, the strength of the sole decreases, and it begins to sag unevenly, destroying the foundation. However, even in the case of using recessed bases, it is also necessary. It must always be done, regardless of the design of the base, type of soil and other conditions.

Preparing to create a blind area around the house

How to make a quality one so that it lasts as long as possible and becomes reliable protection for a foundation? To do this, you need to choose suitable material good quality and strictly follow the technology.

First of all, you need to choose a width. Since it must protect the base, its width should be as wide as possible.

The scheme of the blind area around the house.

In addition to the protective function, the blind area around the house is also erected as a path along the perimeter of the building. This must also be taken into account when choosing its width so that in the future you do not have to walk on it sideways. Based on the foregoing, we can conclude that the most optimal width of a correctly made blind area around the house, which meets all standards and requirements, is in the range of about 1-2.5 m.

The blind area around the house must be done with a certain slope, due to which water will drain away from the walls of the building. Building codes define the value of the slope, equal to 50-100 mm per 1 m of width. This means that the edge of the blind area around the house, whose width is 1 m, will have a height of 50-100 mm near the wall of the house, and its other edge will be flush with the ground. The resulting descent is good for draining water from the building: water will flow down it quickly enough, but it is difficult to walk along such a blind area. However, if you make the angle of inclination smaller, then the water will drain much more slowly or even linger on the surface, but it will be much more convenient to walk. A compromise between efficiency and comfort is considered to be a slope of 15 mm per 1 m of width. When walking, such a slope is almost not noticeable, and the water flows down completely and does not linger on the surface.

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Materials and coating for the blind area around the house

Scheme of the blind area device.

In order to properly make a blind area around the house, you need to prepare the appropriate materials. There are several popular options for its manufacture, in which various materials are used, but the most common is a blind area made of concrete.

The manufacturing technology is quite simple. First of all, the area for the blind area is cleared, after which the reinforcement bars with a diameter of 6 mm or more are laid in the form of a grid. The rods are connected to each other by means of a knitting wire. Next, formwork is installed, made of wooden planks. At the end, the formwork is poured with concrete mortar.

To independently make a blind area around the house, prepare the following tools and materials:

• shovel;
• Hydraulic level;
• Wheelbarrow for transportation of crushed stone and removal of soil;
• Manual tamper;
• Waterproofing materials;
• insulation;
• Sand;
• crushed stone;
• clay;
• Reinforced mesh with 10x10 cells or reinforcement bars.

Before starting work, it is advisable to perform the necessary preparatory actions, for which you should organize free access to the house from all sides, as well as prepare the tools and materials listed earlier.

The next stage is the execution of marking work. It is most convenient to carry out this procedure using wooden or metal pegs (driven in around the perimeter of the future) and a cord pulled between them. At the same time, it is necessary to ensure that the blind area has the same width at all points (as a rule, around private houses with a width of 1 m).

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Do-it-yourself concrete blind area around the house: step by step instructions

Scheme of the construction of a concrete blind area.

From the blind area, made in accordance with all norms and rules, depends on the durability of the foundation, as well as the amount of money and time spent on the construction of the structure itself. It is better to take care of creating a blind area immediately after the completion of the construction of the house.

The blind area around the house consists of 2 structural layers. The first of these is the underlying layer. The main task of this layer is to create a compacted even base for the coating. Material used: sand, clay or small gravel. Layer thickness - up to 20 mm. The choice of material for the underlying layer depends entirely on the material of the second layer, i.e. coatings. The main task of the coating is resistance to the damaging effects of moisture and water resistance. Material used: clay (it can be used both as a base layer and for creating a coating), asphalt mix, concrete, small cobblestone. Layer thickness - up to 100 mm.

Scheme of the device of the concrete blind area.

This is true for any type of blind area around the house. Next, the instructions for the blind area device will be given using the example of the most popular option - concrete.

To prepare the concrete mixture, it is necessary to take M400 cement, crushed stone and sand in proportions of 1: 4: 2.

Make markings for the future blind area around the house. ABOUT minimum width structures have been discussed previously. Remove and compact the earth around the perimeter of the building. Usually the soil is removed at the zero cycle of construction work. When constructing a blind area, it is necessary to prepare the ground exactly for the width of the future structure in accordance with the markings made. In this case, it is necessary to take into account what material will be used in construction. For the ground, you need to take it out to a depth of about 25 cm (“on the bayonet of a shovel”).

The next step is the manufacture of formwork from boards. For formwork, boards with a thickness of 20 mm are used. A small layer of clay is laid on the compacted earth. The clay is leveled and compacted. A layer of sand about 10 cm thick is laid. The sand must be carefully compacted, for which it should be additionally spilled with water. Try not to overdo it. Remember that the bottom is clay. Especially carefully you need to compact the sand at the foundation. Now you need to lay the crushed stone with a layer of 60-70 mm.

Filling the blind area around the house - milestone in the construction of any house or structure. It is invisible and seems insignificant. But experienced builder and the user is aware of its importance. It is necessary to observe the technology of its manufacture, to choose the right type. With a careful study of construction technology, it can be done with your own hands.

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Purpose

The idea of ​​\u200b\u200bthe meaning of the concrete blind area will help answer the question: “How to properly fill the blind area around the house?” The main mission of the blind area is to protect the foundation of the house. This building part takes rain water, spring floods. The farther moisture goes from the perimeter of the house, the drier the basement. The blind area reduces the load on drainage system, saves vertical waterproofing. The main parameter of the blind area is its width. The most common value is one meter.

You can limit yourself to a smaller size if the house is small and the size of the plot is tiny. But this deviation should not exceed 20 centimeters. An essential landmark is the cornice of the house. Its projection on the blind area should be 20 centimeters smaller, should be closer to the foundation. The blind area completes the architectural image of any house, serves as a territory for pedestrians. She must have a slight slope away from the house. So the water will be better discharged from the foundation. A two percent slope will suffice. Before starting work, it is important to calculate the height of the blind area near the wall of the house.

Construction and materials

The blind area looks like this:

1. Sand layer. It is rammed and compacted with irrigation.
2. Drainage. Rammed without watering.
3. waterproofing layer.
4. Concrete pavement.
5. Damper seam every 2 meters blind area.
6. Sod, which is adjacent to the blind area on the opposite side of the foundation.

It is impossible to fill the blind area around the house without materials:

1. Bedding. It is prepared before the start of pouring the solution. Its manufacture will require sand, crushed stone or gravel, not very large sizes. It is considered a violation to pour concrete over fine sand. Such a foundation will not be strong, it will definitely shrink. The more serious the design, the more reliable it is. It is preferable to make a pillow of at least two substances. The bottom layer will compact the soil, level the surface. You will need gravel or gravel. The second layer will need sand.
2. Reinforcing mesh. Fittings with a diameter of 6 to 8 millimeters are useful. The softer the soil, the smaller the cell sizes. They can be from 20 to 50 cm.
3. Wooden formwork. Enough boards with a thickness of 20-30 mm., And a width of 100 mm.
4. Concrete solution. The strength of concrete should not be less than B15. Using more serious concrete is economically unprofitable. But if the house is located in the northern latitudes, the concrete must be more frost-resistant.
5. Sealant.

It will be problematic to do this work without the following tools and devices:

1. Bayonet shovel, shovel shovel.
2. Hammer and nails for formwork.
3. Spatula, master.
4. Rule for leveling the solution.
5. Level, roulette.
6. Mixture container.
7. Buckets.
8. Twine or fishing line.

concrete mortar

The brand of concrete used should be based on winter temperatures. Do not use a brand below F50. The best option for Russian conditions is the F100 brand. The main thing in the manufacture of concrete on their own is to accurately maintain the proportions. Perfect option- use a ready-made mixture from the factory. But it costs money, it will be very difficult for one to quickly work out the quantity that the concrete truck will deliver. Filling the blind area around the house is a laborious process: you simply can’t cope physically. Part of the concrete will disappear or seize, making problems for the near future.

Concrete homemade will require the use of four ingredients: water, sand, cement and crushed stone. The optimal brand of cement is M400. It is desirable to take sand of medium size, fine sand is suitable as an alternative. To obtain a mixture of brand B15, the following ratio will be required:

• Cement - 1 share.
• Sand - 2.9 shares.
• Crushed stone - 4.9 shares.
• Water - 0.6 shares.

If you take ten liters of cement, then the above proportion will give out 54 liters of concrete. Other brands of cement suggest a similar ratio of sand and a slightly smaller amount of coarse aggregate.

The order of the main operations

Proper filling of the blind area involves performing operations in strict accordance with the sequence:

1. Marking around the house. It will help determine the perimeter of the future structure.
2. Excavation around the entire perimeter of the house. The depth of the trench should take into account the thickness of all layers - the bedding and the concrete itself. The standard depth is 30 centimeters.
3. Foundation tamper.
4. Formwork installation. Should be a one-piece, solid construction.
5. Laying loose materials - crushed stone and sand. The process is accompanied by compaction. The minimum thickness of the first layer is 20 centimeters. Sometimes between ground and bulk materials lay a small layer of clay (5 centimeters). The process of tamping sand is accompanied by watering. The closer to the foundation, the more effort is worth making. Instead of rubble, you can use a brick fight.
6. Laying of reinforcement meshes. If conventional reinforcement is used, then it is tied with wire.
7. Installation of boards that will serve as expansion joints. They will not allow concrete to collapse in winter. The step has already been indicated above: 2 meters.
8. Blind area concreting: laying the concrete itself and its compaction, leveling. The standard thickness is 15 centimeters.
9. Structural ironwork. It will give hardness, will reliably protect from moisture. Ironing is the backfilling of fresh mortar with a thin layer of cement after 20 minutes. With a spatula or trowel, it is rubbed over the entire surface of the blind area. This operation can be skipped if you will be laying tiles or other types of decorative material to the blind area.
10. Care of concrete in the process of setting. The structure must be protected from unauthorized entry of foreign objects, animals, guests of the yard.

Subtleties and nuances

The manufacture of the blind area should be started immediately after the construction of the foundation and its finishing. It should be remembered that the blind area should not be closely adjacent to it. It is necessary to provide a small gap between the base and the blind area. The recommended value is 20 millimeters. The gap will allow these two powerful structures settle with different meaning. This will not lead to the appearance of cracks on their surface. If you do not use insulation for the foundation and blind area, then it is recommended to fill this gap with sealant.

Full setting of the filled blind area occurs after 4 weeks at a temperature of 20 degrees Celsius. The lower the temperature and the higher the humidity, the longer this period. There is a simple principle: the longer the better! But the formwork can be dismantled much earlier than this period. Concrete care will not be superfluous. It consists in systematic wetting. To prevent evaporation, you can fill the structure with a film. This will prevent cracking during setting.

Warming welcome. Extruded polystyrene foam, which is laid under a layer of concrete for backfill, will help. This procedure is relevant if the sole of the basement is above the freezing value of the soil. The ideal design of the blind area has a drain channel, which is located on its edge. It will help to effectively drain rainwater. The construction of this channel will not be problematic if the yard is sloped. The advanced blind area will be equipped with insulation, which is one with the insulation layer of the whole house. And the gap between the blind area and the foundation will favor this.

decorative design

The blind area can be not only a protective structure, but also become an ornament to the foundation of the house. Its surface can be covered with paving stones, bricks. FEMs are very popular - figured elements for paving. You can lay the blind area with asphalt, but it's expensive. The best option- blind area from paving stones. It has suitable strength, long service life, produced in various color performance. It is laid after the blind area has completely hardened. You can put it on a dry mix or on a regular solution of sand and cement. Connoisseurs add a little substance with which they wash dishes. The coating is laid on the mortar, leveled with a rubber mallet. The gaps between the elements are filled with sand or cement. You can walk a week after installation.

Additionally

Before starting all the work, you can take a small master class from specialists. Better yet, work for a few days as an assistant in a construction team. Remember about safety precautions, work with gloves. The main hazard in carrying out this work is lifting weights. The help of a partner will be appropriate.

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