Mixer      06/16/2019

Wood treated with oil. The best materials in woodworking: choosing wood oil for interior work. What you need to know about spontaneous combustion risks

Wood is an environmentally friendly and safe material that requires proper attention and care throughout its entire service life.

Impregnation of wood with natural oil is the easiest and most effective method protect it from destruction, decay, damage by mold and pathogens.

Wood has high hydrophilic properties, which lead to drying out and damage to the surface.

In order to avoid such troubles in the future, experts recommend treating the tree with vegetable oils, which turn into a solid under the influence of sunlight and oxygen. protective covering. They quickly penetrate into wood fibers and reliably protect them from the negative effects of various factors.

The main reasons why oil coating matters are:

  • On wooden surfaces, mechanical damage is not noticeable, which can lead to a decrease in the effectiveness of the coating;
  • Processing with such compositions makes the surface pleasant to the touch, allowing it to maintain its original structure;
  • Natural oils give wooden surfaces an attractive glossy sheen, eliminating tarnishing and fading;
  • Impregnation with linseed oil provides effective damage to fungal spores. Impregnation reliably closes the pores, which prevents water from entering them.

Benefits of oils

In hardware stores, a huge number of protective compounds for wood are presented - oils, stains, varnishes, and waxes.

The most popular and effective for the impregnation of wooden surfaces are protective oil and wax. They have powerful waterproofing characteristics, while being completely safe and environmentally friendly.

Oils have the following benefits:

  • Contains only environmentally friendly components;
  • Provide reliable closing of small wood pores;
  • Possess high water-repellent, wear-resistant properties;
  • Gives wood surfaces an attractive look appearance;
  • Increase the life of the tree;
  • Well applied and quickly restored;
  • Do not exfoliate, do not peel off, do not deform;
  • Do not change the natural color of the tree;
  • Well cleaned of dirt;
  • They have good value for money.

Despite the obvious advantages, oil impregnations have some disadvantages. Thus, oiled wood surfaces require more attention than lacquered surfaces. Every 4 months they need to be covered with a fresh layer of oil.

Oil treatment does not prevent the appearance greasy spots, which are difficult to remove with improvised means.

Types of oils for wood, their choice

For wooden surfaces various types natural and artificial oils are used.

Vegetable oils are natural ingredients processed by chemical means, to obtain an effective protective composition. They are divided into three categories:

  • Drying - poppy, walnut, woody, perilla, niger, linen, hemp, tar and others;
  • Semi-drying - sunflower, rapeseed, cotton and others;
  • Non-drying - castor, olive, palm, almond and others.

artificial protective compounds are made with the addition of various chemical components that are designed to improve the wear-resistant characteristics of a wooden coating.

Linseed and hemp oils are most in demand for tree protection, which differ high content glyceride compounds of linoleic and linolenic acids.

To choose the right oil for wood, first you need to determine whether the impregnation corresponds to the type and density of the wood.

The best option for most types of wood are universal oil formulations that have an extended spectrum of action. Some impregnations have a slight coloring effect on wood flooring, thereby giving it a deep rich hue.

Surface preparation for processing

Before proceeding with the impregnation of wood with an oil composition, the surface should be prepared - thoroughly cleaned of dust, sanded and polished.

If the wood is damaged by mold or pathogens, the surface requires cleaning, disinfection, treatment with a deep penetration antibacterial primer. The treated base or parts must be left to dry completely.

Grinding the base is carried out with fine or medium grit sandpaper, the resulting dust is cleaned with a soft brush or a clean rag. The old paint layer is previously removed with simple solvents and a scraper.

The finished surface must be smooth, without defects and damage. This is necessary in order to ensure better adhesion of the impregnation to the wood.

The process of applying impregnation to wood is carried out in several stages with technological breaks of 1.5-2 hours each.

For impregnation it is necessary to prepare the following materials and tools:

  • Oil composition;
  • Wax;
  • Small capacity;
  • wide brush;
  • Soft clean rags;
  • Fine grit sandpaper.

In any hardware store you can purchase special formulations for wood, it is recommended linseed oil. To accelerate the hardening, it is additionally recommended to use wax. Work on the impregnation of surfaces with compounds and wax is carried out as follows:

  1. To obtain an oil product in different containers, it is necessary to heat the wax and linseed oil. Combine the finished components and mix thoroughly.
  2. Apply the warm mass evenly with a brush on the treated surface along the wood fibers. Repeat the procedure 4-5 times. Depending on the type of wood, the procedure can be carried out in several approaches. The minimum interval between oil coats is 1.5 hours.
  3. The coating is cleaned of excess oil with a clean rag until the impregnation hardens. With a little effort, the rag must be pressed against the surface in order to remove the resulting roughness of the wood fibers.
  4. Leave the surface treated with compounds and wax until completely dry for 2-3 days.
  5. After drying, the coating should be polished to a matte sheen.

Important! If linseed oil contains polyurethane components, then no need to add wax. Some wooden substrates can only be treated with wax.

Wood drying is carried out in a ventilated room or on the street. During drying, the treated surface must be protected from moisture, dust and direct sunlight.

Subsequent work with bases, treated compounds and wax should be postponed for 7-10 days.

  • Any wooden base can be treated with oil compounds and wax. In this case, the moisture content of wood should be no more than 14%. If the surface treatment process is carried out indoors, then the air humidity should not exceed 70%, for outdoor work it is better to choose a good sunny day.
  • Coatings with rapid wear are recommended to be treated up to 4 times a year, bases with a slight mechanical impact - no more than 1 time in 2 years.
  • Linseed oil and wax treatments are not performed on painted or lacquered substrates.
  • Unused linseed oil and wax can be stored in a cool place at a constant temperature of 0 degrees.
  • Valuable wood species are recommended to be treated with linen-based wax.
  • For impregnation of external wooden bases and elements, pure linseed oil without auxiliary additives is suitable, which has pronounced moisture and dirt-repellent characteristics. For internal surfaces You can also use wax.
  • High-quality impregnation with linseed oil can be performed in two ways - rubbing and soaking. Rubbing the composition is done with a sponge or brush along the fibers. This method is suitable for large bases. For small items and elements, soaking can be used. In this case, the product is immersed in a container with a protective agent for a couple of hours or days. After the impregnation is completed, the wood is left to dry completely.
  • For reliable protection of wood, it is better to use oil and wax, not varnish. The lacquer coating is susceptible to mechanical damage, cracks and chips, which can cause swelling and decay of wood. Unlike varnish, linen protectant and wax penetrate deep into the fibers, preventing cracks and protecting the wood from environmental negative factors. In addition, the composition gives the base a rich shade and an attractive natural shine.

Timely impregnation with oil formulations will provide high-quality and reliable protection wooden bases throughout the entire service life.

In the very recent past, almost all dishes were made of clay or wood. The only exception was frying pans. This made sense: food cooked in a clay pot had a special flavor. And the wooden spoon never got hot. No chemicals were used in these products. Even to give wooden spoons and bowls of gloss were not used with any varnishes or paints - they were simply boiled in hemp or linseed oil. The effect of this was excellent: wooden products were soaked with oil and became more attractive.

To give wooden surface Shine and radiance can be applied to it with oil.

Impregnation of wood with oil has been used to this day, although modern technologies wood finishes and differ from ancient ways. At present, wood impregnation does not require boiling the product itself. But boiled oil is used for this purpose. But in order to understand all the tricks of impregnation, it is necessary to understand the processes of finishing wood products more deeply.

Why impregnation is needed

Classification of types of wood protection.

First consider the need finishing coatings and their types. Any material requires protection - this is an indisputable fact. This is what the main task any impregnation - to protect the tree from pests, fungal infections and excess moisture, which can provoke the appearance of fungus. The second task of impregnation is to hide defects in the processing of the product or minor flaws in the material itself. Such impregnations include wood staining, waxing and oil impregnation. Wood staining does not have a protective function, therefore it is more of a decorative impregnation.

Waxing a wooden surface can greatly improve the visual appeal of a tree. The essence of waxing is that hot wax is applied to a wooden surface in a large layer, after which the excess wax is either simply removed with a soft cloth or rubbed into the surface. At the same time, all microcracks on the surface of the wood are clogged with wax (and they are always present), so the surface becomes smoother and receives excellent protection from moisture.

What is needed for impregnation

Before applying oil to a wooden surface, it must be cleaned with sandpaper.

Wood impregnation is the strongest protection for wood, as the oil penetrates deep into its structure. To impregnate wood with oil at home, you will need:

  • oily liquid for impregnation;
  • capacity;
  • brush;
  • soft fabric;
  • sandpaper.

Wood impregnation begins with surface preparation. First, the outer part must be carefully cleaned (this applies to old surfaces). The fact is that the tree very well absorbs dust and other contaminants. If the tree is not cleaned, then all these blockages, together with the oily liquid, will fall deep into the structure, it will be completely impossible to remove them. We clean the tree sandpaper and blow off wood dust from the surface. After that, you can already begin to apply the composition to the surface.

How to choose oil

In practice, linseed oil is often used to treat wooden surfaces.

Various oils can be used as impregnation. The choice of special compositions in the building products market is wide. When choosing it, you should not rush, because by mistake you can purchase a product that is not suitable for impregnating certain wood. Density of a tree different breeds differs very much, therefore there are several oils just for the type of wood. Such highly specialized liquids are not worth buying.

It is better to choose an oil intended, for example, for hardwood trees. Such a substance has a wider spectrum of action, so it will be more difficult to make a mistake in choosing. Do not forget to pay attention to other parameters of the oil. Do not be surprised if you see information on the container that the oil has a coloring effect. Manufacturers of the named product specifically took this step. Firstly, it is much easier to work with such an oil product, and secondly, after the surface dries, the wood will get a richer shade. For impregnation, not only a specialized oil composition can be used. In practice, conventional formulations are often used plant origin: linen, hemp, tar. Drying oil can also be considered oil for impregnation (by the way, it was drying oil that was used for the first time for impregnating wooden surfaces).

Procedure and technology for applying oil

It is necessary to apply oil to wood along the structural fibers.

Oil industrial production applied to the tree according to the attached instructions. The oil is usually applied warm. So the oil particles will have a greater speed and will quickly penetrate deep into the structure of the tree. The impregnation of the surface of the tree with oil is carried out by the usual paint brush medium hardness.

The width of the brush is chosen depending on the width of the product itself. Smears should be applied in one direction along the structural fibers. If the impregnated surface has a large width, then its oil coating is carried out from top to bottom. Good impregnation should be plentiful, and it is applied in 2-3 layers with an interval of several hours (it all depends on weather conditions).

Typically, the time interval between applying layers is 2 hours. The last layer is to be treated with a dry cloth. Movements are also carried out along the structural fibers. We press the rag to the surface strongly, as if trying to push the oil even deeper. Why is this? After several coats of oil upper layer wood is somewhat soaked, so the surface has become slightly rough. Strong pressure with a soft cloth will return all the particles to their original position. After drying, the wood will be very smooth.

The impregnation does not dry instantly, so postpone all work with the impregnated surface for a while (about a week). The tree should dry under normal weather conditions, but in a ventilated area. Direct Sun rays will be an enemy for impregnation, so the product must be dried indoors. Further, the surface should simply be polished. Use special chemical compositions there is no need, since the impregnation itself already gives the product a beautiful look.

Features of the type of wood and additional finishes

Coniferous trees do not need oil impregnation, as they contain natural resins, which can also be considered impregnation.

Since coniferous woods do not need to be impregnated with oil, use varnishing to protect them.

There is only one drawback: the resin is able to evaporate. Products from conifers trees are also partially impregnated after several years of operation. It is pointless to use oils for these purposes, since resins do not allow the oil to penetrate deep into the wooden structure. The need exists only to protect the top layer of the product. Waxing or varnishing gives such wood a beautiful appearance and provides the necessary protection for several years. After a certain period of time, waxing or varnishing must be repeated. By the way, a tree impregnated with an oil composition also has a non-eternal protective ability. Typically, this coverage is valid for about 5 years. After this period, the entire procedure described should be repeated. True, in this case it is not necessary to apply several layers: the oil product is present in the inner part of the tree and continues to protect the product.

More reliable protection should be considered the use of several ways of finishing the material. Often, after impregnation and polishing, a layer of varnish is also applied to the product. The varnish creates a barrier to the evaporation of oil particles, so the impregnation is preserved for a longer period. But the varnish layer will have to be updated after a while. If you have chosen just such a way to protect the tree, then we can recommend using a matte varnish. On an oil-soaked surface, such a varnish looks more organic.

To wooden products served for many years, they need to be protected from the appearance of fungus and insects. Such a task is faced by craftsmen who make furniture from wood.

Wood oil is increasingly being used for this purpose. For internal works - a time-tested method.

In contact with

Penetrating oils

the very best protective material is coal tar oil, which has a characteristic phenolic odor, which makes it impossible to use it at home. Therefore, it is used to clean railway sleepers. For interior work use available oils that have a pleasant smell.

wood oil, what it is? For a long time, impregnating oils have been used to impregnate wood in order to increase its durability. They possess deep penetration and antiseptic properties, making the wood surface elastic.

mixtures protect against the appearance of bugs, while the pores of the wood are not clogged, the tree continues to "breathe". An important factor is that the compositions are natural, environmentally friendly product, able to adjust the moisture content of the wood.

The most common wood oils for interior use are:

  • teak;
  • linen;
  • tung;
  • tar.

Positive characteristics and cons

There are many advantages to use:

  • natural material;
  • ease of use;
  • eco-friendly;
  • after impregnation, the surfaces acquire an attractive appearance;
  • the possibility of rapid restoration;
  • availability.

Thanks to these properties oil impregnation used to treat surfaces and furniture made of expensive and exotic woods, wooden houses exposed to constant moisture.

But oil impregnation There are some negatives that should be mentioned:

  1. Demand and complexity in care, regardless of the surfaces on which the composition is applied. To type of products remained attractive, it is recommended to apply the composition and polish every four months.
  2. Products treated with oil, are not resistant to fatty contaminants. Stains appear, and they can be removed only by re-treatment.

positive many more sides so they remain popular for a long time.

Impregnating compositions and their properties

To understand what impregnation for wood use it yourself for wood processing, we will analyze the most popular compositions in detail.

Teak

Multifunctional composition, which can be used both for external processing and for indoor work. They are protected by:

  • ceilings and floors;
  • stair railings;
  • decor elements;
  • gazebos;
  • figurines standing in the garden;
  • facades;
  • garden furniture and so on.

teak impregnation ideal for mahogany, oak, beech and other exotic woods . This composition has no connection with there is no tree of the same name. The mixture consists of linseed and tung oils diluted with turpentine and is an environmentally friendly product.

Advice! Teak oil must not be diluted! Just stir before using. In addition, it protects the wood, so it can be used in wet areas.

Linen

Rightly Recognized the best and cheapest composition for impregnation of wooden products. High waterproofing performance allows the use of wood impregnation even on external surfaces. They are often trimmed with facades wooden buildings, garden furniture, gazebos. Linen impregnation is valued when processing interior items; when applying the composition, it shows the structure of wood. Machined plane becomes waterproof - the tree is conserved.

Linolenic and linoleic acids contribute to the thickening of the composition under the influence of low temperatures - this should be taken into account when processing external coatings.

Important! Linen impregnation for wood is a long-drying composition. If you do not add turpentine or tar to it, then the process can last three weeks.

Tung

The composition, which used for soaking wood materials in antiquity. Protects against bugs, water, rot and fungus. Our ancestors impregnated with tung oil not only floors, furniture, ceiling surfaces and platbands, but also dishes.

Before use tung impregnation mix and apply at t +15 degrees. At low temperature Tikkurila oil for interior work begins to thicken, which significantly increases the consumption during application.

On one square meter usually takes up to 150 grams when applied with a brush in a thin layer. The composition is absorbed for 20 minutes, then they take a rag and begin to rub the excess over the wood fibers. What is not included in the wood fibers should be removed. In order for the composition to be absorbed, it can be diluted with white spirit by 40%. Processed materials dries 24 hours.

All rags after use should be disposed of. With hand impregnation on water based Washes off easily with soap and warm water.

Interesting! Tung impregnation for wood during the reign of the tsar was used in exceptional cases, for processing interior items made of valuable wood. This is due to the fact that the texture of the wood treated with the composition becomes pronounced.

Tar

natural composition, which not only protects wood from water, but also has a strong disinfecting quality. The mixture includes:

  • pine turpentine;
  • stump resin;
  • flax oil.

Tar impregnation is used to impregnate berths and boat bottoms, and this is not surprising - turpentine liquid promotes deep penetration into the wood, flax lubricant delays the mixture from coming to the surface. mineral impregnation for wood, it is characterized by the processing of materials exposed to constant moisture.

If we compare oil impregnations, then, according to its characteristics, tar oil for wood for internal processes is similar to tung and teak. It perfectly copes with the protection of wood planes from insects, water and decay, while not distorting the color of the wood. As for the expense, then:

  • for impregnation of a sanded surface, no more than 150 ml per 1 m2 will be required;
  • for application to the walls of the house per 1 m2 it will take 5-10 liters.

Finished surface dry in a week, depending on air humidity and wood species. If the material is processed in one layer, then after 24 hours it is ready for use. Tar grease cannot be diluted; it is simply mixed before use.

Advice! All oils, except flaxseed, should be stored in a dry place in a sealed container. After freezing, they retain excellent properties.

How to trim a tree yourself

In most cases For home use use linseed oil to impregnate wood for interior work, as it is inexpensive and widely available. For application, it is recommended to prepare the following materials and tools:

  • oil composition;
  • natural brush, soft foam, rags and soft cloth;
  • building hair dryer;
  • hard metal brush;
  • sandpaper;
  • broom or vacuum cleaner;
  • protective gloves.

Once everything is ready, you can begin to perform the application.

Work technology

Process wooden planes possible in several ways. You can apply liquid and then rub or soak. It should be noted that soaking can only be applied to small products, such as:

  • figurines;
  • dishes;
  • decorative items.

Processed tableware usable, it is moisture resistant, so you can store fruits, salt and sugar, bread in it.

Surface preparation

One of milestones in wood oil treatment for interior use is their preparation. If it is supposed to impregnate small figures or utensils, then they must be well sanded. If the objects were previously covered with varnish, this layer is completely removed.

In preparation a large area will have to:

  1. Remove old cover e using a spatula or a metal brush. If the coating cannot be cleaned off, then you will need a building hair dryer, which should heat the surface, from which the paint or varnish begins to bubble and can be easily removed.
  2. Then you need to sand the first stage with the use of sandpaper of a large fraction, the second stage to take a fine skin. It is necessary to clean until the plane is smooth to the touch.
  3. Dust the surface. To do this, you need to sweep the room or vacuum.

Applying an oil composition

The most common way wood processing is considered oiling. If the surface to be treated is small, then you can use a brush with natural bristles, but for a large area it is better to use a rag soaked in grease. You need to do this as follows:

  • grease for protection wood should be mixed well and poured a little into the paint bath;
  • wet a rag and start smearing the surface, applying strictly along the fibers;
  • leave flat for 20 minutes, remove excess with a rag;
  • surface should dry well before the second layer.

Once applied to the surface the right number of layers and it dries completely, it needs to be well polished to a shine.

soaking

Oiled in this way small items. Pour oil into a container, enough to wooden product was completely covered. You can endure as much as you like - there are no restrictions.

As experts advise the product should be in the oil composition until air bubbles stop coming out.

On a prepared table covered with clean paper, set the object soaked in oil in such a way that the excess composition of the glass.

After that, the subject polish thoroughly with a rag. If the item is soaked in linseed oil, then the protection is maximum, since the drying process of the composition lasts three weeks. If you want to use the finished item earlier, then use wax oil for wood. This mixture can be prepared independently, for this need to wax and pour it into the oil heated to smoke, and then mix until a homogeneous composition.

What's better

Many home craftsmen cannot decide what material to use to protect their wooden surfaces. We have considered the advantage of using lubrication in detail, it remains to analyze two other methods.

Wood protection with wax

Waxing - this method is familiar mankind since antiquity. Wax protects the wood from moisture, filling the porous surface of the wood, while the surface acquires a matte sheen. Unlike oil impregnation, wax does not allow the wood to “breathe”.

Important! It is uneconomical and impractical to use pure wax, therefore it is mixed with oil impregnations in different proportions.

Lacquering

This is the most time-consuming and expensive method of wood protection. from moisture, rot, mold and insects. In addition to the fact that the surface will have to be processed at least four times, varnish coatings are afraid mechanical damage, which can be eliminated only with a complete restoration.

Lacquer coating is afraid temperature difference, when heated, it begins to flake off, the surface fades from frost. When hit by an aggressive detergent a stain appears, which can only be removed by cleaning the entire surface and varnishing it again. Plus to everything - cutting, bad smell , which does not fade for a long time.

Useful video


Based on the foregoing, we can safely say that the most the best option for independent processing of wooden surfaces is oiling. Easy application, inexpensive material cost, the possibility of quick restoration - all this makes wood protection oil popular and in demand among home craftsmen.

Oil treatment of wood is a traditional way of caring for wooden surfaces. Oil compositions ensure the safety of the material for many years of operation, give the surface hydrophobic properties and protect against the development of all kinds of adverse processes. However, oil treatment is not such a simple operation as it seems at first glance. The application of oil products to wood has its own characteristics, without knowing which, you can get a completely opposite result and spoil the coating. In this review, we will focus on how to apply oil on wood, what subtleties and nuances exist in this work.

The most common oils used for wood processing:

  • tung;
  • teak;
  • tar;
  • linen.

Each of the presented oils has its own characteristics, short review of all means is given in the article. Here we will focus on the criteria for choosing an oil, and also consider the best way to cover a tree in a particular case.

  1. The most popular of these products is flaxseed oil. It is versatile and can be used both outside and inside the house. Linen impregnation is great for wet rooms, because. has good hydrophobic properties. The oil dries long enough, up to three weeks, to speed up the process, wax is added to it. At negative temperatures the oil becomes hard, which complicates the processing of external surfaces.
  2. Tar oil is ideal for treating log facades and timber houses. It perfectly withstands all weather conditions and is resistant to sub-zero temperatures. In addition, it is one of the best natural antiseptics, and protects external surfaces from decay. It is undesirable to use tar impregnation indoors, since it contains turpentine.
  3. Teak oil is suitable for impregnation of any surfaces, it provides effective protection from moisture, from UV radiation and other adverse factors. This tool is also used to cover expensive wood species.
  4. Tung oil is intended for the treatment of internal surfaces. It differs from other types of oils in a higher drying rate. The oil creates a durable film that has a high water-repellent effect. Very often used for the restoration of antiques.

All the above oils are natural products, their use does not cause any adverse effects on humans. Today, mineral oil, which is based on petroleum products, is often used for surface treatment.

Manufacturers claim that synthetics are safe and can be used for processing interior spaces. However, this is not the case, synthetic additives are released into the atmosphere and are harmful to health. Therefore, the use of artificial oils is permissible only outside, and only if the product has undergone deep cleaning.

The choice of oil according to the type of wood

When choosing a particular oil, you should always consider the wood species. To determine how the oiled surface will look, it is necessary to test on a small section.

  1. Conifers contain resins that prevent the penetration of oil into the structure, so they do not need oil impregnation. To protect the surface, in case of emergency, you can use thick compositions in one layer or process the tree of this species by waxing.
  2. For low density wood, alder and linden, it is also better to use thick saturated impregnations. The use of fluid compositions is undesirable, since with deep penetration, they remain inside in a liquid state.
  3. Beech and birch are characterized by high density, and therefore, they are first treated with liquid compositions, and then with thicker ones, which have a high degree of dry residue, and with wax.

What can dilute the oil

To improve one or another characteristic of the oil, various components are added to it. For example, to increase the absorbency of tung oil, it is diluted by 40% with white spirit.

To increase the drying rate of linseed oil, it is mixed with turpentine in a ratio (70:30) and then heated. However, it should be noted that turpentine is toxic and has a pungent odor, so this composition can only be used for outdoor processing. Tar is less toxic and can also be added to oil to speed up the drying process.

To impregnate wooden surfaces inside the house, wax is added to the oil. It increases the water-repellent and antistatic properties of the surface and accelerates the process of solidification of the oil composition.

If you want to change the color of the wood or get a more saturated shade, you can tint the oil with pigments. Tinting enhances the look wooden house, coloring it in natural tones more valuable tree species.

If you want to give the house an unnatural color for wood (red, green, blue), add to the impregnation oil paints or casein oil tempera. You can also dilute the oil with gouache, but in this case, mixing must be done hot to remove excess liquid from the paint.

Oil application technologies

There are three ways to paint wood with oil:

  1. Vacuum impregnation. This technique is commonly used in industrial settings. Such processing requires special equipment, so it is impossible to cover the surface using this technology on your own.
  2. Soaking. The method consists in placing the tree in heated oil, soaking for a certain time, and then drying it. In this way, only small wooden products can be painted.
  3. Layer coating. This technology is the most common. It is used to treat wooden surfaces different area. This method is discussed in detail below.

Preparatory work

Properly preparing the surface is 80% of success in this work. Oil is very strongly absorbed and under it it is impossible to hide defects. Any scuffs, scratches, bumps after applying the oil will remain noticeable. Therefore, the main task here is to bring the surface to an ideal state.

It is quite difficult to do this manually, it is advisable to use professional equipmentgrinders, pads for polishing. If there are no special tools, you can do the work yourself, but of course, the appearance of the surface will be far from ideal.

So what needs to be done:

  1. If you have to oil an old log house, first of all, remove the old coating. Remove paint or varnish wire brush. This must be done very carefully so as not to damage the wood itself. If it is not possible to clean off the coating in this way, you can heat it with a building hair dryer, when the paint bubbles, it can be removed with a spatula.
  2. Then you need to carefully sand the wood. Professionals perform this operation using a grinder with circles of different grain sizes, which are selected based on the condition of the surface. For rough cleaning, nozzles No. 40-80 are used, for medium - No. 100-120, for polishing - No. 150-180. If there are no machines, you can grind manually with sandpaper of different fractions.
  3. Before finishing polishing, all cracks and cracks must be repaired. It is necessary to putty with putty in the color of the wood so that the patches remain invisible after applying the oil.
  4. After graduation preparatory work all dust must be removed with construction vacuum cleaner. The remaining dust will also be visible after applying the oil, so do this work as carefully as possible.

Oil application instructions

Interior surface treatment

The oil can be applied cold or hot. Application rules are the same for both options. The difference is in the temperature of the oil impregnation. In the first case, oil is used room temperature, in the second - before use, the composition is heated to a temperature of 80 degrees. It is also necessary to warm the surface itself with a special thermal pad, since it will not work to soak a cold tree with hot oil, the product will not be able to be absorbed and will remain on the surface.

Regardless of the chosen method, you need to paint a tree with oil in stages:

  1. First, the first layer of impregnation is applied. The oil is applied with a brush or cotton cloth in a thin layer and evenly distributed over the surface.
  2. Remove excess oil immediately, if this is not done, the impregnation will dry out and form a crust, which will then be very difficult to remove. To remove excess oil, you need to wipe this place with a dry cloth. It is necessary to rub the impregnation until the rag collects the oil. If the oil is not absorbed and lies on the surface of the floor, you can take rubber spatula and rake the excess with them into puddles, and then collect with a rag.
  3. Next, the surface is polished with a soft cloth. After that, all wet areas are wiped dry with a cotton cloth.
  4. With a cold method of processing, the application of the second layer is started no earlier than 5 hours, in some cases it is necessary to wait up to 12 hours. It depends on the type of oil. The second treatment with hot oil can be done after 2-2.5 hours, because. it dries out much faster.
  5. Re-processing is carried out similarly to the first, each layer must be polished. The number of layers depends on the condition of the surface, tree species and type of oil. Usually 2-3 layers are enough.

It takes two to three weeks for the surface to dry completely, the exact period depends on the combination of the factors listed above.

House treatment outside

Applying oil on the facade of a house made of timber and logs should be done in warm sunny weather. It is advisable to prime the surface before this. Let's take linseed oil as an example. If the treatment is carried out with oil from flax, it must first be cleaned of impurities, since under the influence of solar radiation the flax impregnation turns yellow.

Oil purification methods:

  1. With normal saline solution. To achieve good result, the oil must be washed at least 5-7 times.
  2. By mixing the oil with lead salt and heating the composition to 60 degrees.
  3. By adding ethanol.
  4. Photooxidation. The oil is boiled with water, filtered and kept in the light.

Impregnation process:

  1. We remove the old coating.
  2. We grind the surface.
  3. Remove dust with a vacuum cleaner.
  4. With a brush with soft bristles, apply the first layer of oil-turpentine impregnation.
  5. After drying, grind the surface and apply the oil again.
  6. After the final drying, we process the tree a third time.

Conclusion

Oil is a product that is quite difficult to work with on your own. The slightest violation of technology and any inaccuracy immediately affect the quality of painting. All work must be carried out with the utmost care, especially when it comes to transparent composition. Perfect smoothness of grinding, Smooth surface, the absence of defects is a prerequisite for obtaining a beautiful and high-quality coating.

All these conditions are feasible when professionals get down to business. The Mater Srubov company is your reliable assistant in creating high-quality and beautiful interior wooden house. Specialists high level preparations will perform any finishing work inside and outside the log house. To apply, go to the section. There you will find all our coordinates.

Calculate the cost of painting and insulating your home right now

Lineups on oil based- This one-stop solution suitable for decorative finishes any wood. They do not create a durable and wear-resistant coating, but they have a wide range of other advantages: excellent adhesion, ease of application, antiseptic protection, and environmental friendliness. Processing wood with oil does not create a film on the surface of the product, it allows you to emphasize the natural beauty of the texture of the material and tactilely feel its texture.

A simple application technology avoids streaks, smudges, brush marks and other defects. If necessary, the finish can be easily removed and updated. As a rule, oil is used for wooden objects that are not subject to intense abrasion and moisture.

What oils are most in demand?

Linseed oil - it is distinguished by ease of application, deep penetration into the structure of wood, high resistance to environmental influences. The main disadvantage is the long drying process (up to 3 days). Processing of large-pored wood with linseed oil is carried out in several layers.

Drying oil This is boiled linseed oil. Due to the presence of desiccants in its composition - catalysts that accelerate drying, the polymerization process takes no more than a day, which makes this type of finish much more practical.

Tung oil , obtained from the seeds of the Chinese tung tree, effectively emphasizes the texture of wood and forms a wear-resistant matte finish. The drying process takes about 24 hours. If linseed oil is more suitable for restoring old surfaces, then the use of tung oil is more appropriate when finishing new products.

Danish oil - finishing composition based on natural vegetable oils with the addition of resins and absorbent substances. Wood treatment with Danish oil allows you to emphasize its natural texture and create a durable matte finish. Drying time: 4-12 hours depending on the characteristics of the composition.

teak oil - mixture natural oils, resins and absorbent components. Finishing the wood with teak oil results in a durable decorative coating with glossy effect. The drying process takes 4-6 hours, depending on the specific composition.

What is dry oil residue?

The percentage of dry oil residue is an important characteristic that determines the features of the finishing composition. Dry residue is understood as the percentage of non-volatile substances in the oil - these are various hardening additives, waxes, inclusions that improve absorption, etc. The higher the percentage of dry residue of the product, the better the covering ability it has. Accordingly, an oil with a high solids content requires fewer layers of application. At the same time, the process of drying (polymerization) of such compositions takes more time.

How to properly prepare the surface?

Before applying the finishing composition, the surface of the wood is ground using abrasives of various grain sizes:

  • wood with an open structure (oak, etc.) - coarse abrasives P150-P180;
  • wood with a closed structure (maple, beech, etc.) - fine-grained abrasives P180-P240.

The sanded surface is dusted with a damp lint-free cloth. When applying the finish to oily woods (iroko, teak, etc.), it is recommended to additionally wipe the surface with white spirit.

How to treat wood with oil: general principles

The oil is applied to the prepared and dried surface with a swab or brush, followed by rubbing. Evenly distributing a plentiful amount of oil on a wooden surface, it must be allowed to soak (about 15 minutes), then wipe the excess composition along the fibers using a swab. Otherwise, the surface will be glossy, sticky, with possible staining.

Spread the oil evenly to avoid spotting. Edges and ends should be treated first, because. due to the capillary effect, they absorb the finishing composition more intensively. In multi-layer processing, each new layer is applied after the previous one has completely dried, with preliminary grinding with a fine-grained abrasive.

The optimum temperature for wood treatment with oil is 15-25°C. At indicators below 10 ° C and high humidity, it is better to temporarily abandon work.

Professional intricacies of oil application

If stains form on the surface, increase the amount of oil applied.

To give the composition a more liquid consistency, necessary for even distribution over the surface, place the container of oil in hot water. Avoid contact with open flames.

Oil should not be applied under direct sun exposure, as it will absorb too quickly, which in turn will make re-treatment more difficult.

Use a special dispenser to impregnate the surface - a simple and ergonomic device that promotes uniform application and economical consumption of the composition.

How does the oil lay on the stain?

Oil and stain - not the best, but quite acceptable combination. Any stain impairs the absorbency of subsequent compositions, because. partially fills the pores. In combination with oils, only water-based stains can be used. At the same time, practice shows that tinting pastes for tinting oils are a more effective alternative to stain in this case.

How long does it take for oil to dry?

  • linseed oil - 2-3 days;
  • linseed drying oil - 24 hours;
  • tung oil - 24 hours;
  • polyurethane oil varnish - 12 hours;
  • Danish oil - 4-12 hours;
  • teak oil - 4-6 tsp.

Since oils harden (polymerize) during the oxidation process, reacting with oxygen, products must be dried in a room with constant air circulation.

What you need to know about the risks of spontaneous combustion?

Reacting with oxygen, oils oxidize. This process is accompanied by heating, which can provoke spontaneous combustion of cleaning cloths and other items used in the course of work. Therefore, never leave oil-soaked rags rolled up: dry them unfolded outside and only then dispose of them. All items and materials (sanding felt, dispenser, sponges, etc.) that have come into contact with oil should be stored in a sealed metal container.