Always requires the organization of a device for draining water. It is necessary to take care of the drain even before its construction begins. Drain pit is the basis of all drain system. The option of draining water with a drainage pit is very popular among summer residents. If there is a sewer line or ditch not far from the summer cottage, then making a hole will become impractical. In such cases, it makes sense to run drain pipes to sewer system and or ditches. Make a drainage hole on areas of land with a high level groundwater It is strongly not recommended, as it will not lead to any benefit, and the efforts will be wasted. Therefore, before you start building the bathhouse itself, there is no need to rush into preparing the drainage pit. If a drainage hole is still needed, then we begin construction.
So where to start? Like any other building - from design. Specialists in the field of engineering are not required here, but you need to make a few calculations. Answer the questions:
- How many people will visit the bathhouse?
- What are the characteristics of the land on the site?
- How high is the groundwater level?
About the fact that high level It is better not to make a drain hole for groundwater, as has already been said. But how do you measure the level itself? The most accurate method is drilling a well. But not everyone has a drilling rig lying around in their garage. Take a closer look at areas where vegetation is not watered. If moisture-loving plants grow there, then there is definitely water in the soil. The vegetation is dense, which means the hole needs to be dug deeper. The volume of the cesspool will depend on how intensively the owners use the bathhouse. How more people According to calculations, they will visit the steam room and shower, the larger the volume of the pit will be required. If there is a deficiency, waste water may end up overflowing. Is the soil loose? Then you will need to strengthen its edges. If the soil is hard, then it’s a plus for time.
Having determined all the characteristics of the land and the “productivity” of the future bathhouse, you can choose a place for the pit. Bathhouse construction experts advise digging a hole two meters from the walls of the bathhouse itself. Too far - then the required slope will not be provided and the water will stagnate.
Materials required for construction
If the soil is dense and well-absorbing, a lot of starting materials will not be required. In this case, there is no need to strengthen the walls of the pit. The bottom can be filled with crushed stone and rack sand. However, cases with such ideal land are not common in our country. In the vast majority of cases, the walls of the pit have to be strengthened, otherwise it may crumble. Brickwork, slate or similar material works well for this. Another option: a plastic or metal barrel with a cut out bottom, in the lower part of the walls of which you will need to make several holes so that the drain water is filtered through the ground.
An advantageous pit shape option is a cylinder. A pit made in this form distributes the load on the soil evenly, reducing the risk of structural failure to a minimum. The cube-shaped camera is inferior in this regard.
Trench preparation and excavation work
Where to put the excavated soil? If the soil is of good quality, sprinkle it on an area with vegetation. Stones, sand and clay for removal. We decided to equip a pit brickwork, ceramic bricks are just that. Durable material that does not have “hydrophobia”. You can save on bricks by laying bricks edge up. You need to leave holes between the ends - this is an outlet for water. Simple and helpful advice– using natural stone, so as not to spend money on brick, is beneficial.
Is the masonry complete? Then we begin to form the bottom, a waterproof bottom! The same crushed stone and sand will serve as backfill. Construction waste is also suitable. It is better not to underestimate the bedding layer, at least 20 cm. The upper part of the masonry should exceed the ground level by 30-40 cm. Cover the pit concrete slab or metal sheet.
If vehicles will drive across the site above the pit, then the thickness of the slab should be at least 30 cm. If the soil does not absorb drain water well, then holes can be left in the slab so that when the pit overflows, drainage can be pumped out. Only this hole needs to be covered with something, otherwise you can accidentally fall into it. The strengthening is completed, all that remains is to fill its outer part with already dug soil (fill the unusable part of the hole with sand). In the place of the former pit, you can grow plants or create a passage.
Pit made from old tires
As a rule, the drains do not contain solid waste, which means that the arrangement options can be very simple. Special materials may not be required at all. Improvised means will also do. BOO car tires perfect for this. The larger the tire diameter, the better. The sidewalls of old tires need to be cut off using a grinder or jigsaw. So, the prepared tires are placed on top of each other in the pit. The lower part of the pit is also filled with crushed stone. In the tire lying on top you need to make a hole for the drain pipe and adapt it. After this, you need to put on the cylinders a metal sheet and fill it with soil level.
Drainage hole made using slate
Wave slate is perfect for filling a drainage hole. The first sheet is placed on the bottom. The second is superimposed on the first so that their waves touch each other with high points. Subsequent sheets are also laid until 30-40 cm remains to the top of the pit. The drain pipe is inserted into the gap of the upper quarter of the slate masonry. You can strengthen the structure by filling broken pieces of slate, and then filling the remaining empty space with soil. This method is mostly suitable for sandy soil.
The last two methods should not be used if it is expected that vehicles will pass through the hole.
City property owners do not face such a question as installing a sewer system. The supply of water and its disposal after operation is carried out at the expense of housing utilities. But it is extremely difficult or even impossible to provide central sewerage to country houses and dachas. Therefore, residents often have to organize their own drainage system. This installation is not as complicated as it might seem at first glance. In this case, the most important thing is to know how to properly make a drainage hole, and what you will need for this.
Types of cesspool system arrangement
There are several options for cesspools. Some of them require periodic cleaning and regular care, others can be cleaned once every few months or years. They are divided into three main types:
- drainage pit without pumping;
- sealed tank;
- termite storage septic tank.
Each type is different design features, functionality and reliability. Of these, some are more economical, others can be used for large amounts of recycled waste. Therefore, before making a drainage hole in a private house, you first need to decide which type is more rationally suitable for a particular area.
This type of sewer system is the cheapest in terms of operating costs. Such a design is capable of efficiently processing the daily volume of wastewater of 1 cubic meter without pumping. A sewer pit without a bottom is mainly installed in summer cottages where there are no plumbing fixtures, which improve comfortable living. Also, in dacha plots, owners do not live throughout the year, but only on certain days of the week. In this regard, not accumulated in the pit a large number of water, having been purified through the drainage layer, has time to be absorbed into the soil.
You should know! If, when installing a drainage pit without a bottom, sanitary and hygienic standards are violated, the environment may be polluted from absorbing wastewater.
Hermetic storage pit
This type of storage system is considered safer for the environment than a drainage pit in a country house without a bottom. This is due to the fact that the tank consists of a sealed container that does not allow contaminated runoff into the ground. Such a structure is installed in a hole at a certain distance from the house in which a family of several people permanently lives. In addition, the tank can be filled with wastewater for several months, without frequent cleaning and care.
Storage pits - septic tank
A termite storage septic tank is an innovative device for a drainage pit in a private home. A special feature of this tank is that cleaning with sewage equipment is carried out once every 1-2 years. The termite septic tank is equipped with anaerobic bacteria, due to which high-quality breakdown of waste occurs. But in order for the wastewater to have high-quality treatment, this tank requires a nearby location of the filter device. Wastewater treatment occurs in stages, from one tank to another, through connecting pipes. At the exit, the wastewater becomes so clean that the water can be reused for agricultural needs.
As you can see, each tank has its own pros and cons during operation, which can affect the consumer’s choice. But, regardless of the type, in order to install drainage pits in a private house with your own hands, you first need to familiarize yourself with the requirements of SNiP.
Choosing a place to install a drain pit
Many consumers making a drainage pit for the first time make a big mistake by not coordinating the design of the sewer system with the SES. Such an oversight subsequently leads to litigation from complaints from residents of neighboring areas. Such claims are related to the fact that if the sewer pit is located incorrectly, destruction of the foundation of a residential building and pollution often occur. environment. Therefore, in order to avoid such problems, the location of the storage pit must comply with the following regulatory requirements:
- The drainage hole is dug only within personal plot;
- To avoid troubles, the distance from the pit to the dividing fence to the neighbor should be about 1 m;
- In order not to pollute the water, it is better to place the sewer pit at a distance of 20 m from the drinking source, and 10 m from the passing water supply;
- To avoid an unpleasant sewer smell, the distance of the pit from the house must be at least 5 m;
- If a private house is located at the lowest point of the plot; in order to avoid erosion of the foundation, the pit location should be 10 m from the house.
In addition, the consumer must provide such a distance from the cesspool to other buildings so that there is free access to it for a sewer truck.
Important! According to sanitary standards, the depth of the drainage pit must exceed the level of the drinking source. Otherwise, the drainage pit may contaminate the water source.
So, having familiarized yourself with the distance at which the storage pit should be located, according to SNiP, you can begin to calculate it.
Calculation of the size of the cesspool
Before making a drain hole, it is first more advisable to calculate its depth and diameter. The data obtained will help you correctly determine the design of the cleaning tank and extend the service life of the entire sewer system.
Cesspool depth
To periodically pump out a sealed drain pit, you will need the services of a sewer truck. This work will also be required to clean the bottom and walls of the tank from solid build-up of contaminated wastewater.
Typically suction flexible pipe the depth of the sewer truck does not exceed 3 m, therefore, in order for the hose to dispose of all waste from the tank, the depth of the drain pit should not exceed this value. Standard depth indicators for high-quality cleaning are 2.5 and 2.7 m.
An important indicator that will influence the depth of the cesspool is groundwater. If they are located at a distance of 2 m from the soil surface, then building a storage tank in this place is not recommended. Due to spring floods, the pit will quickly overflow with water, which will increase the demand for sewerage services.
Sump volume
The drainage pit in a private house must correspond to the water flow. If several people permanently live in a building and it has comfortable equipment, it is necessary to build a storage structure so that it can accommodate a large amount of wastewater. H To make an independent calculation, without the services of specialists, you can use the following formula:
V = K x D x 200, where:
- V – tank volume;
- K – number of residents;
- D is the distance between the cleaning provisions;
- 200 – standard rate water in liters per person.
Having made the calculation, 200 liters are added to the result obtained for each plumbing equipment. The final result will be equal to the total volume of the storage pit.
Important! There are cases when the drainage pit quickly fills with waste. Therefore, in order to avoid them getting into the area, it is better to select the tank volume in advance with a margin of up to 20% of the obtained value.
Installation of a cesspool
To install sewerage in country house or at the dacha with your own hands, you will need certain materials and tools. Digging a pit for a tank is carried out using special equipment or manually. The installation of the container itself can be done in several ways. The most common methods include:
- slate pit;
- drainage pit from concrete rings;
- tank with brick walls;
- fillings from car tires;
- storage pit from a septic tank.
Each method has its advantages and disadvantages. As practice has shown, it is not rational to build a hole with your own hands from bricks and car tires. This is explained by the fact that new brick has a high price, and old brick is quickly destroyed by water. To create a storage pit made from car tires, you need high-quality, expensive sealant, otherwise leaks will occur. In addition, when using tires, a strong unpleasant sewer smell appears, which will be impossible to cope with. The remaining methods are easy to install and have high performance.
Slate pit
The slate drainage pit will be good decision as a sewer for a bathhouse. With this method, the soil will absorb the wastewater, without the help of pumping a sewer truck.
For installation, you can use either new slate or the remaining material after dismantling the roofs. The work process is simple, even an inexperienced beginner can do it. To carry it out, you just need to adhere to the following order:
- First, dig a hole near the bathhouse, taking into account the location of groundwater;
- Then lay the first sheet of slate on the bottom of the pit;
- Next, install slate sheets along the walls of the pit so that their waves coincide with each other;
- The sheets are fastened using self-tapping screws and construction angles.
Finally installation work It is necessary to drill a hole in the hole for water drainage, insulate the tank properly and bury it with soil.
You should know! The most common reason when water does not drain from a well is siltation of the bottom and walls of the tank. In order to cope with this, you need to thoroughly clean the pit using chemicals.
Drainage pit made of concrete rings
If we consider all types of storage tanks, a pit made of concrete rings can be called the most the best option for a private home. It is suitable as an absorbent container, sealed pit and storage septic tank. Concrete rings for the drainage pit are characterized by positive performance characteristics. They are durable, reliable and resistant to external aggressive environments.
The construction of such a tank begins by first digging a hole of the appropriate size from the house, and then laying one concrete ring on top of another. Further installation of the container is carried out depending on its purpose:
- If a sealed tank is provided, the bottom of the concrete well is poured cement mortar, a hole is made in the wall for the sewer pipe, and the top of the pit is covered with a concrete slab;
- If concrete well will not be a cesspool, but an absorbent tank, then drainage is laid in its bottom, and additional holes are made in the walls to absorb wastewater into the soil;
- When installing a storage septic tank made of concrete rings, all seams of the tank are sealed with a high-quality water-repellent compound. To provide the yams long term Between cleanings, anaerobic bacteria are added to them.
Advice. Considering the weight of concrete rings, it is recommended to use appropriate equipment to lay them.
Storage pit from a septic tank
A DIY drain hole when using a termite septic tank does not require any specific knowledge. In addition, the arrangement of such a tank does not require compliance with serious sanitary standards. This is explained by the fact that the plastic container is made of environmentally friendly material and is absolutely sealed. Also, such a pit allows for independent wastewater treatment, without additional costs.
To produce self-installation this tank, it is enough to adhere to the following sequence:
- First you need to dig a hole of appropriate size;
- A termite septic tank is placed in the pit;
- Sewage pipes are connected to the tank;
- The septic tank is filled with water.
At the end of the installation work, the trench with sewer pipes and the tank itself are covered with earth.
So, having considered the types and methods of installing a storage tank, beginners will no longer have the question of what to do if it is not possible to connect a central sewer system to a private house or dacha. Each installation of a storage tank is not as complicated as it might seem at first glance; to carry it out, the most important thing is to familiarize yourself with sanitary standards and nuances of work execution.
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If we talk about such a design as a drainage pit for a bathhouse, then the need for it will arise only if there is no central sewer, as well as a cesspool or septic tank where a drain could be placed. As for the functions of the drainage pit, they are very simple - collecting water after washing in the bathhouse, effectively discharging it into the ground.
This is what the place for the drain hole looks like
The design of the pit is very simple - it is one container without a bottom. Instead, a drainage layer is installed here, through which water will seep into the soil, purifying itself at the same time. A drain pipe must be connected to the pit, which is installed during the construction of the foundation. As for the volume of the pit, it will depend on the number of people for which the bathhouse is designed.
This is what the pipe connection to the drain hole looks like
Based on the information provided, you can understand that you can install a drainage pit for a bathhouse with your own hands, without requiring a lot of time and effort. Even materials do not always need to be purchased. You can use available raw materials, even slate.
Materials and tools for constructing a drainage pit
From the tools you will need to prepare shovels for digging a pit, buckets for removing earth from it, and a tape measure for taking measurements. As for materials, these are sand and crushed stone for drainage, finishing material depending on your choice.
Hole Digging Tools
In some cases, when the soil on the site is very dense and there is no risk of its collapse, finishing the walls of the pit is not even necessary. But such soils are rare in our country, so you should still take care to make a drainage hole according to the rules.
You can choose brick for wall decoration. Better - ceramic. Then you will additionally need to prepare a cement mortar to give strength to the masonry. But if there is no brick, you can use any material available. If you have wave slate, it will also work well for the job.
Finishing the walls of a brick drainage pit
Sequence of work during the construction of a drainage pit
If your choice is a slate drainage pit, then the work on its arrangement and finishing will look like this:
Before starting this work, you need to lay the pipe.
How to lay a drain pipe
The drain pipe ensures the drainage of wastewater from the bathhouse into the drainage pit. Moreover, its presence should be provided for at the stage of construction and design of the bathhouse. The pipe should exit at the bottom of the foundation. As for the connection of the pipe with the drainage pit, it must be straight - no fractures or bends, because in this case the drainage will be very poorly drained. You should also observe the slope of the pipe to ensure natural movement of water. Installation work drain pipe will look like this:
Installation of the drain pipe and angle of inclination
- dig a trench of the required depth;
- arrange a cushion of crushed stone;
- lay the drain pipe, observing the slope;
- connect;
- check the tightness of the system;
- cover the pipe with soil.
In order to cope with this job, you do not need to have any special skills. Construction is quite simple and quick.
How can you strengthen the walls of a drain pit?
When there is a problem related to the flowability of soil, the question of strengthening the walls of the pit should arise to prevent them from collapsing. The solution to this problem using slate was discussed above, but it is not always at hand.
If the drainage pit collapses, it can be strengthened with bricks or natural stone. When carrying out masonry, you need to remember that gaps of 5 centimeters should be left in the rows. This will allow water to penetrate the soil better and faster and protect the pit from overflowing.
This is what brick fastenings look like
As an alternative, concrete rings can be considered, but they must be perforated. Installation is very quick, especially considering small sizes drain hole.
Probably the vast majority of owners summer cottages and country private houses cannot imagine their life without their own, since such a structure is an integral part of ancient Russian traditions. A bathhouse is not only a place for washing, but also a kind of home “dispensary” that works to restore the strength and health of the owners, and provide the necessary periodic relaxation. But in order for it to bring only pleasant sensations, its arrangement, and in particular all the necessary communications, must be carried out according to all the rules.
One of the traditionally problematic components of the bath system is the disposal of used water, so it is very important to properly organize its drainage and collection site. Disposing of contaminated, untreated wastewater onto the ground or into natural bodies of water is strictly prohibited, and such an approach will inevitably lead to penalties from supervisory environmental authorities. Therefore, in the absence of a centralized sewerage system (as is most often the case), a special storage or drainage pit is usually created for these purposes. And in order for the drainage pit for a bathhouse to function effectively, it is necessary to study its design before starting construction, and during the period of arrangement work, follow the recommendations of experienced craftsmen.
Main types of drain pits
Construction of any drainage pit is a rather labor-intensive process, since the pit will most likely have to be dug manually. At the same time, such a hydraulic structure is not very complex in design, so any owner of the site can build and equip it independently, without even involving assistants, of course, if there is enough strength for excavation work.
Drainage pits can be divided into three main types - a sealed container, a pit with drainage capacity, and one consisting of several chambers.
First, let’s figure out what each of the varieties is, in principle.
- A sealed drainage pit is most often installed on construction sites with shallow soil aquifers. It is more often called a cesspool, that is, requiring periodic emptying of the accumulated volumes dirty water.
To build it, a pit is dug into which a container with a sufficiently large volume is installed. This is where they will gather wastewater. As the container is filled to a certain critical level, the waste is pumped out by a sewage disposal machine.
This option is environmentally friendly, since no pollution or chemicals get into the soil and groundwater. cleaning solutions, which can negatively affect the condition of fertile soil on the site, as well as have a negative impact on high-lying ground aquifers. However, this option is not convenient and economical, since you will have to constantly monitor the filling level of the container and often call specialized vehicles, and such services are not cheap.
Prices for septic tanks
- There is no hermetically sealed bottom created in the drainage drainage pit. It uses a bulk layer of filter media building material- most often crushed stone or gravel is chosen for this purpose.
In addition, often in the walls drainage pit At a certain height, holes are also made through which water will be absorbed into the soil. This option is perfect for a bathhouse and is perhaps the easiest to build, however, if the soil characteristics on the site allow it.
- A septic tank is a whole system consisting of two or more chambers that have different purposes.
In any of the options, the first chamber most often has a sealed design and is used for collecting, primary filtration and purification of waste - solid components settle to the bottom, and liquid ones are clarified and undergo a cycle biological treatment due to the action of aerobic microorganisms. This container is connected to the second chamber with a special overflow pipe - clarified liquid waste flows into the next compartment, which is already organized according to the principle drainage well. Water passes through the drainage, is further purified and absorbed into the soil.
If a septic tank of three containers is planned, then the third chamber is made into a drainage chamber. The second serves for the final sedimentation of suspensions, more deep cleaning water due to the action of anaerobic microorganisms. And from here the purified liquid is poured into the drainage well.
A septic tank is most often installed when a considerable volume is expected to be collected into it. liquid waste both from a residential building and from a bathhouse.
What is important to know about the design and rules of septic tank equipment?
A septic tank is already a rather complex engineering structure, the creation of which must obey certain rules. Often, home owners prefer to install a ready-made factory-produced system. What are the rules for arranging such treatment plant, and what to look for Special attention when - read in the special publication of our portal.
Materials for arranging a drainage pit for a bathhouse
Various materials can be used to construct bath drainage pits. Their choice directly depends on the expected volume of wastewater, the financial capabilities of the site owners and the convenience of construction.
Barrel drainage pit
To create this water drainage system, metal or plastic barrels of different sizes are used. However, such a drain can be arranged in different ways:
- First option. At the bottom of the excavated pit, covered with drainage material 300–400 mm thick - crushed stone or coarse gravel, after compaction, a barrel with perforated walls and a cut bottom is installed. In this case, it is taken into account that between the walls of the barrel and the pit there should be a space of at least 100 mm, which is also filled with drainage backfill.
A pipe is inserted into the barrel at the required slope angle, through which used water from the bathhouse will flow into the container. These drains will gradually seep into the drainage layer through holes in the walls and through the bottom, be cleaned, and then be absorbed into the surrounding soil. In some cases, drainage material fills not only the free space of the pit, but even the barrel itself, that is, water will flow directly into the drainage layers and then into the ground. This way the barrel will never fill up.
It must be correctly understood that such a scheme is not suitable for collecting other types of wastewater from a residential building. For a bathhouse that is used for its intended purpose once or twice a week, such a pit becomes one of the most optimal options.
- Second option. In this method of arranging a pit, two barrels are used, installed at different levels - one above the other by about 200 mm. They are connected to each other at the top by an overflow pipe. Water from the bathhouse enters the first upper container, soap sediment and solid suspensions settle in it, and when it is filled, the water is poured into the second barrel, to which one or two long drainage pipes with perforated walls are attached.
Outlet pipes from the second tank are laid in drainage trenches filled with gravel or crushed stone, through which water purified from chemical precipitation will be distributed, moistening the soil. The trenches are filled from above with a layer of fertile soil, approximately 500 mm deep, and can be planted ornamental shrubs that will receive constant watering. Thus, two problems are solved at once - draining water from the bathhouse and irrigating plants on the site.
This option for arranging a drainage pit will be discussed in detail below.
Brick drain pit
The walls of the drainage pit can be arranged using bricks, which are laid out with gaps - through them, water is drained into the drainage backfill and further into the ground. The difference between this pit and the first version, made from a barrel, differs only in the material, but the operating principle remains the same. A drainage layer is poured into the gap between the soil and brick walls, which will purify the water and distribute it throughout the pit, discharging it into the ground.
A pit made of brick is more durable and is designed to hold a larger volume of water. Moreover, if you dig a pit deep enough, and the bottom and lower part of the walls are sealed, then this structure can also be used to drain other waste, but in this case the pit will have to be cleaned periodically.
To build this version of a drainage pit, it is not at all necessary to use new brick - used material is also quite suitable.
Prices for metal barrels
metal barrels
Drainage pit made of concrete rings
If financial and technical capabilities are available, then a drainage pit can be built from perforated concrete rings, which are installed in a prepared pit. After installing the rings, a drainage backfill is arranged at the bottom of such a well.
In this option, the entire space between the walls, as in previous cases, is also filled with drainage material, so the hole, provided it is used only for bathing needs, will never be filled with water. In the same case, when the pit is deep enough and the bottom of the well is cemented, then such a pit is suitable not only for a bathhouse, but also for a general one. True, this will require additional calculations, assessment of the absorbent properties of adjacent soils and the location of aquifers.
Pit made from old car tires
A drainage pit made from waste car tires can only be used for liquid waste, so it is impossible would be better suited for collecting periodically incoming water from the bath.
Tires are installed in different ways: in some cases, holes are cut out in their side walls, in others, a small gap is provided between the slopes, in others, the outer walls are almost completely cut off, but the principle of operation of the drainage pit remains the same.
This option for draining water from a bathhouse can be called the most popular, since it is simple to install, affordable (tires are easy to find for free) and practical to use.
The numbers on the diagram indicate:
1 – Crushed stone or coarse gravel – drainage backfill, in a layer 250÷300 mm thick.
2 – Old car tires.
3 – Drain pipe from the bathhouse (there may be two of them)
4 – Crossbars for laying the lid.
5 – Cover or hatch.
Around the stack of wheels laid out, and sometimes inside the resulting well, a drainage cushion is backfilled, which allows you to retain and purify the water coming from the bathhouse. With good drainage capacity of the soil and periodic use of the bathhouse, the pit never overflows.
It should be noted that other materials that can withstand the effects of high humidity are also suitable for the construction of a drainage bath pit.
How to independently equip a drainage pit for a bathhouse
Inspection of the soil at the site of the planned drainage pit
In order for the bathhouse drainage system to be effective, it is necessary to determine the type of soil in the area at the approximate depth of the planned pit. To do this, a trench or test hole is dug. So that the bathhouse can be used in winter time, the depth should be below the soil freezing level. Information about soil freezing in a specific area can easily be found on the Internet, or you can consult with the owners of neighboring plots who have been using similar drainage systems for a long time.
Prices for concrete rings
concrete rings
Sandy soils and sandy loams, including those with rocky inclusions, have good drainage abilities.
But dense clay layers can cause problems. At high humidity, they are well saturated with water, swell, and become practically waterproof; when dry, they shrink. In addition, they are highly susceptible to frost swelling. These qualities of such soils are unfavorable both for laying and laying pipes in trenches, as they can lead to deformation and damage to themselves and other elements of the system.
Constructing a drainage hole in such soil, if it extends to great depths, is an almost pointless exercise. Well, if you have to lay a pipe through such layers to a drainage pit that reaches the depth of soil with high absorbency, then the bottom of the trench must be lined with a sand cushion 100–120 mm thick, which will prevent the harsh impact of ground vibrations on the elements of the drainage system.
The level of groundwater (GWL) is also important, since the degree of absorption of water entering the drainage pit will also directly depend on this. So, between the bottom of the pit and the location of the stable aquifer there should be a distance of about 1000 mm. If the groundwater is located close to the surface, then the contaminated water will not flow well into the drainage, and such a well will soon turn into a fetid pit, as it will be constantly filled. In this case, as with clay soils, the option of a drainage pit is not suitable. You will have to either install a sealed container that requires periodic emptying, or organize water drainage to special surface filtration fields.
Having chosen the material for constructing the pit, you need to decide on a few more important points its arrangement, on which the efficiency of the system depends, environmental Safety, both the site itself and its inhabitants.
First of all, you will need to decide on the location where the hole will be located.
- Quite often, owners place a drainage hole directly under the building, but this becomes possible only if:
- the pit is equipped before the construction itself;
- the structure rises above the ground on a columnar or pile foundation, which will need to be well waterproofed;
- under the bathhouse building there must be provision good ventilation;
- the sewer pipe connecting the bathhouse drain and the pit will require effective thermal insulation.
- If the pit is located separately, away from the bathhouse, then it is necessary to ensure that it is located at the required distance from sources of drinking water, natural reservoirs, residential and outbuildings, trees, the border of the site and the road passing near it. The required standards are shown in the diagram below:
- The pit should be located below the level of the drain hole in the bathhouse floor by at least 150÷200 mm, and the recommended distance from the bathhouse building is 3÷5 meters.
- If the drainage pit has to be located fairly close to the bathhouse structure, then:
- the bottom of the pit should have a slope of 20÷25 degrees, draining water from the walls of the building;
- perforation in the walls of the barrel, concrete rings or tires must be done on the side that will be located further from the walls of the bathhouse;
- It is very important to maintain the correct slope of the sewer pipe so that dirty water does not stagnate inside the channel, but immediately goes into the drainage hole, and there is no risk of freezing when using the bathhouse in winter. It is especially necessary to remember this in cases where it is decided to place the pit quite far from the bathhouse. The amount of required slope depends on the selected pipe diameter - this is clearly shown in the diagram below:
It should be noted that to organize the drainage of water from a small bathhouse without a toilet, a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm is usually sufficient. In order to maintain the required slope, when digging a connecting trench, as well as when adding a sand “cushion” to it, you should control the difference in its depth using a building level.
Arrangement of a drainage pit - step by step
In this section of the publication, two options for drainage pits will be considered, which can be arranged independently.
Regular drainage hole
This version of the drainage pit has a design that can be made of various materials, which were discussed above.
| Illustration | |
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 | After determining the location of the drainage hole, you can proceed to digging a pit. For a bath drainage well, a pit depth of 2500÷3000 mm will be sufficient. It can have a round or square cross-section - it will depend on the chosen material for the walls. For example, if the pit is made of brick, then it is more convenient to lay a square or rectangular shape from it, but in some cases a round well can also be built from it. The diameter of the pit should be 150÷200 mm larger than the prepared container. |
 | When the foundation pit is prepared, from it to the construction of the bathhouse the right angle a trench is dug for laying a drainage pipe. The width of the trench can be 300÷500 mm, and the depth will depend on the level of soil freezing in the area where the bathhouse is built, but not less than 500 mm at the entrance to the well. |
 | The bottom of the finished pit is filled with medium-fraction stone - gravel, crushed stone, crushed brick or even broken slate. The drainage layer must be at least 300 mm, as it is designed to retain dirty water and purify it, that is, moisture must reach the soil by capillary action, which will allow it to be quickly absorbed. |
 | Further, they act differently. You can lay a sewer pipe right away, and then work on the brick walls of the water intake well, or you can first install or build a container, and as it is being built, a drainage pipe is inserted into one of the specially made holes. Most often, the pipe is laid at a time when the walls are brought out to the level of the depth of the trench, otherwise it will simply interfere with the work. |
 | So, the walls of the drain well can be built of brick. The laying is carried out maintaining a clearance between adjacent bricks in a row of 40÷50 mm. The wall can have a thickness of half a brick or one brick - this parameter is chosen by the builder, and largely depends on the amount of prepared material. Having raised the walls of the well by another 200÷300 mm, the space between the soil and brick walls is filled with drainage backfill. |
 | If concrete perforated rings are used to form the walls, then specialized equipment will have to be used to install them, since each of them has an impressive mass, and distortions must not be allowed during installation. After their installation, the distance between the soil and concrete also needs to be filled with drainage backfill. It should be noted here that if concrete rings are used for the pit, then you should not rush to install them in the hole of the sewer pipe wall, since under their weight they can sink somewhat into the ground - sometimes by 100-150 mm. Therefore, it is recommended to leave the finished concrete well alone for some time for shrinkage, otherwise the plastic pipe may crack or break due to the resulting pressure and tension. |
 | When used for pit metal barrels, the bottom and lid are cut off from them, and side walls you can simply cut it using a grinder. The cuts are made at a distance from each other of 200÷250 mm horizontally and in increments of 100÷120 mm in height. If two barrels are used, they are placed one on top of the other. After installing the lower one, the free space around its walls is filled with drainage. After this, in the second of them, in the top, a hole is marked and cut through which a drainage pipe will be installed into the barrel. The hole according to the markings can be cut with a grinder, but the opening made electric jigsaw. To do this, a hole is drilled at one of the points on the marked circle into which the tool file should fit freely. |
 | If plastic barrels are prepared for the drainage pit, then they are mounted in approximately the same way as metal ones, but quite often the drain pipe is connected through the top lid of the container. The bottom of a plastic barrel can also be cut off or several round holes with a diameter of 100÷120 mm. |
 | Holes with a diameter of 10 mm are drilled in the side walls along the entire perimeter of the polymer container with a frequency of 100÷150 mm horizontally and vertically. Crushed stone or gravel is poured around the barrel and under it, into which, just as in previous cases, water will flow from the holes of the barrel, be cleaned and go into the ground. |
 | The most commonly used material for arranging a bathhouse drainage well is car tires, which are stacked one on top of the other. WITH inside At the edges of the tires, in three or four places, holes with a diameter of 10 mm are drilled, through which they are fastened together using, for example, plastic clamps. The sewer pipe can be connected between two tires. In this case, for emphasis, along the edges plastic pipe and in three or four more places between the tires at the place where it passes, bricks are installed, which will relieve the load on the plastic from the upper slopes. |
 | Another option for drilling the pipe is to install it in a hole cut in the side wall of the tire. When choosing this method, it is necessary to provide for possible shrinkage of the structure by cutting a hole larger diameter pipes 70÷80 mm. |
 | Quite often, the drainage bath pit is not filled with drainage material around the barrels or tires, but is filled with it two-thirds - this allows the water to slowly flow to the soil walls and slowly be absorbed into them. |
 | It is recommended to strengthen the top of the pit with brick walls by constructing a concrete platform with a hole for a hatch. To do this, formwork is built around the well, into which a reinforcing grid is laid, and then it is poured concrete mortar, layer 70÷80 mm thick. |
 | After the concrete has hardened, a homemade cover made of a steel sheet and a corner is installed on the hole. Factory-made hatches, metal or plastic, are also quite applicable. |
 | Special plastic sewer hatches can have various shapes and linear parameters. So, when planning to install this particular option, the hatch is purchased in advance, and the top cover of the drainage pit is built according to its dimensions. |
 | A well made of concrete rings is usually covered with a special lid made of the same material with a ready-made hole for a plastic or cast iron hatch. |
 | Well walls built from tires or barrels have less rigidity than brick or concrete, so it is best to strengthen them with cement mortar mixed with crushed stone. If the drainage was filled between the walls of the well and the soil, then its top layer, 120÷150 mm high, is recommended to be made from the solution mentioned above. Further, the top of the pit can be left in this state by simply installing a hatch on the hole, or a concrete platform can be built over the structure and then backfilled with soil. |
A pit based on the principle of a two-chamber septic tank with access to a filtration field
The second option is more complex in design, but its functionality is significantly higher. This system is perfect for installation in areas with groundwater located close to the surface, since it does not require a deep pit. In addition, such a design can also be a solution for organizing drainage of water from the foundation, from a storm well, filled from linear rainwater inlets on the site or their gutters on the eaves of the roof of the house.
To figure out how to cope with the arrangement of such hydraulic structure, this process should be considered in detail.
| Illustration | Brief description of the operations performed |
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 | This system uses two plastic barrels, which are easy to prepare for installation work and connect to pipes sewer pipes from the same material. Usually, for the drainage pit of a small bathhouse, two or three containers with a volume of 200÷250 liters are enough. |
 | The pit for installing barrels is also dug 100÷150 mm larger than their diameter, and due to the fact that containers of equal size will be installed at different levels, the pit for them should have a stepped configuration. The depth of the pit in this system should be 450÷500 mm greater than the height of the barrel. This distance will be needed to create a drainage cushion under the barrel and a recess for the pipe entering it. The difference in the installation level of the containers should be 150÷200 mm, and the distance between them varies between 200 and 300 mm. The barrels are installed in one line. The bottom of the pit is compacted and filled with medium-fraction crushed stone, a layer 80÷100 mm thick, which also needs to be compacted. |
 | Next, you can move on to working on preparing the containers. The barrel installed above will serve as the primary chamber, that is, a sump for dirty water. In her top cover A neat hole is cut into which the drain pipe will be installed. In the side wall, on the opposite side from the hole in the lid, holes are cut for a pipe that will connect the first barrel with the second, installed slightly lower. For insertion plastic pipes into the lid or into the walls of the barrel, you can find special flanges at a plumbing store, such as the one shown in the illustration. |
 | If not, then you will have to cut the hole with maximum precision, and then to seal it, use high-quality silicone sealant. |
 | Additionally, it is recommended to cut a hole for installation ventilation pipe with a diameter of 40÷50 mm, or install a tee, as shown in the illustration, where one outlet will be intended for connecting the sewer drain pipe from the bathhouse, and the other, vertical, for the ventilation pipe. |
 | The second barrel is equipped with three holes, one of which is drilled in the top lid, and two in the side wall, 100÷120 mm below the top edge. The axes of these side windows should be radially rotated from the axis of the central hole by 45 degrees. |
 | Nozzles with 45-degree bends installed on them are cut into the side holes and sealed. As a result, the pipes for connecting the drainage pipes will become parallel to each other - as shown in the illustration. |
 | Additionally, in the lower part of the walls of the installed second barrel, on the opposite side from the entrance, small holes with a diameter of 5 mm are drilled, at a distance of 150÷170 mm from each other. This is an additional outlet of water into the drainage fill around the barrel. However, if powerful filter fields will certainly cope with their task, and even more so if such a septic tank has to be installed in the immediate vicinity of a bathhouse, then this operation is not necessary. |
 | The result should be a design similar to that shown in the illustration. Having installed a system of barrels and pipes, you can proceed to creating a filtration drainage field. |
 | For the drainage area, which is located at a slope from the installed barrels, a trench is dug, having a width of 1200÷1500 mm and the same depth to which the first barrel standing above is buried. If desired, the drainage filter field can be extended over the entire area, since it will not interfere with the arrangement of beds for annual crops or for planting shrubs above it. A geotextile fabric is laid at the bottom of the resulting channel, on top of which drainage will be laid. Filling the trench with crushed stone is done in layers, each of which should be carefully compacted and distributed at a slope along pre-set pegs. The slope of the trench should be approximately 25 mm per linear meter. Pegs installed in advance with the required height difference will become a kind of beacons for the correct filling of the drainage layer. |
 | As drainage material is poured around the lower barrel, water is poured into it, otherwise external soil pressure may deform it. It is recommended to fill the space between the walls of the barrels with gravel or coarse sand, which should be compacted by pouring water. Next, pipes with perforated walls are connected to the nozzles, through which water will be distributed throughout the drainage area. Holes are drilled in increments of 150÷180 mm along the bottom and sides of the pipes. After drilling, the pipes are dressed in a filtering “casing” made of geotextile - so that the inside of the pipes is not subject to silting. |
 | The next step is to fill the pipes and the entire trench space with medium-fraction crushed stone mixed with sand. Such a layer should reach the lid of the barrel installed below, that is, completely cover the pipes from above with a layer of at least 100–120 mm. It is best to backfill several different layers of soil on top of the crushed stone. So, the crushed stone is first covered with geotextiles, on which a layer of moistened sand 70÷80 mm thick is laid, and the rest of the space can be filled with fertile soil. On this site it is quite possible to arrange a flower bed, plant annual vegetable crops or even small shrubs with a shallow fibrous root system. |
At the end of the publication, it should be noted that there are other materials that can sometimes be found in the yard among old supplies or even seemingly unnecessary trash, which in fact may well be suitable for building a drainage pit for a bathhouse. For example, you can find use for old sheets of corrugated or smooth slate, or even those left over after roofing works covering scraps of corrugated board.
Some inventive owners of country houses line the walls of the drainage well with glass or plastic bottles, which are filled with sand, find others very interesting solutions. Therefore, if you want to save money, and at the same time free up part of the yard or barn room from old materials, then you need to use your imagination “to the fullest” - and act! We will be glad if any creative master will share their innovations on the pages of our portal.
Another example of a simple drain for a bathhouse is shown in the video below.
Video: How to make a bath drain yourself at minimal cost
