Distribution of water supply in the country. Summer and winter plumbing. Autonomous water supply in the country

Here, as in the well-known proverb, you need to measure everything seven times, that is, calculate in advance how much water you will need for normal living at the dacha of the whole family, and do this even with a small margin.

The calculation should be made taking into account all points of water consumption and water intake, taking into account the amount of their constant use by all family members. The most water-consuming objects should also be taken into account - a sauna, a bathhouse, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe site allotted for growing vegetables, orchard which in some regions is now difficult to grow without irrigation.

With each liter of water counted in water consumption, the proposed future source of water supply should also become more abundant.

When locating a water supply source, be sure to take into account the fact that every ten meters of the pipeline will reduce the pump head by 1 meter. This is necessary so that water can be delivered to the most remote corners of the site.

With a small flow of water - for example, if you use the house only as a summer home and a place to relax, you can make a shaft well. It is easy to build, relatively inexpensive, and all the work on its device is easy to do with your own hands. It is fed with water by ground water, the depth of which ranges from 4 to 15 meters.

Device mine well the simplest: head above the ground, underground reinforced concrete rings or a frame made of wooden beam thick, usually 25 cm.

The shaft of such a country well should be deepened into aquifer by 3, and even better by four meters. Layers of sand, gravel, crushed stone are alternately covered at the bottom of the mine well, each of which should be 20-25 centimeters thick, subsequently they will act as a natural filter for purifying incoming water. Many, in addition to the bottom flow of water, also make holes in the concrete rings so that it comes from the sides. Then set to the bottom.

The amount of water that a shaft-type well can provide cannot, of course, be calculated in advance. It will be possible to do this after its construction - for this, the initial volume of water that has entered it by gravity is calculated, after which it is pumped out by a pump and the time after which it will be filled again to the previous level is measured.

In principle, it is always enough for a normal water supply of a summer house, they also dry up extremely rarely, in my practice of a “shabashnika” this happened only a few times, and even then after pumping out the water and cleaning, disinfecting the well, the water began to flow again.

If groundwater is deep

If a suitable aquifer is located at a depth of more than 15 meters and deeper, then the option with a well is eliminated, in which case a well will have to be drilled. They are drilled "on sand" and "on limestone".

Drilling a well in sand is much faster, much cheaper, and so much easier that if you borrow a tool from someone, even an inexperienced person can handle this job.

To construct a well in sand, only a pump, a filter mesh, and a casing steel pipe with a diameter of 125-133 mm will be needed.

Drilling a well "on the sand" takes no more than two days. Such a well will provide you with a volume of water equal to a cube per hour. This is not much, but quite enough for most owners of a personal plot.

Among the disadvantages of drilling a well “on sand”, it can be noted that the water from it is not very clean, and, therefore, the well will “silt up” over time. As a rule, even with its not very intensive use, the life of the well "on sand" is 4-5 years.

An artesian well or a “limestone” well is expensive, takes a long time, 90% of summer residents will not be able to drill it on their own, but ... It serves for a long time, from 30 to 75 years (depending on the amount and concentration of suspensions) and can give out “to the mountain” from 5 to 100 cubic meters of water per hour (at a depth of 30 meters).

Drilling artesian wells or wells "on limestone"

The most commonly used method is to run the casing to the limestone layer through the clay layers. The next stage is the “opening” of the limestone layer, which is drilled with the so-called “open hole”, to the very aquifer.

In order to avoid damage to the rock, through which surface water can penetrate deep into the depths, grouting is used, which consists in pouring a small volume cement-sand mortar through a special steel pipe upon reaching the limestone layer. There is such a peculiar filling of cracks through which contaminated surface water could get into the "artesian".

By the way, the water contained in limestone (from 30 m and deeper) is no longer groundwater, but artesian water. To get it, you need to get permission from the authorities. Work can only be carried out by a specialized licensed company.

This type of wells is even required to obtain a special "well passport".

Using the so-called European well drilling technology (so-called because the same technology was used a long time ago in some regions of the USSR), the well device is of a two-pipe nature.

The first pipe large diameter stands on the limestone itself, after which a well is drilled with a final, working diameter. In order to avoid contamination of the artesian well with surface water, a compactonite clay sealing plug is made between the two types of used pipes.

Such a well will cost more than an ordinary one-pipe well by more than 50%. As a rule, several neighbors drill them together, but even that comes out all the same expensive. Their very existence at such a cost is explained by the very high quality of water.

Lifting water from a well or well

So, we got to the rise of water from a well or well. To establish the supply of water from a not very deep mine well, the vast majority of summer residents use surface pumps.

The main condition for their use is the distance from the water source to the house: in most designs of such pumps, it cannot be more than 50 meters (or rather, it can - there will be no sense).

If the well is deep, or a filter well is used to extract water, these are the same surface pumps, but already ejector ones. More often, submersible well pumps are used, which can easily “master” a distance of 40 meters (depth).

Well, if you are a happy owner of an artesian well, then you will have to use a submersible borehole pump, which is quite capable of lifting water from a depth of 100 meters.

If there is a desire to automate the whole thing, then you will have to resort to buying a CAB (system autonomous water supply), which consists directly of the pump itself, a hydraulic accumulator and a control pressure switch. The thing is excellent, but for many expensive.

Pros and cons of different methods of extracting water

1. Mine well Labor-intensive work. Despite the fact that much of its construction can be done with your own hands, you will have to call equipment and assistants, at least at the stage of digging, excavating the earth from the well space and lowering it there concrete rings.The advantages of the design of a shaft well are obvious: the possibility self repair, cleaning and disinfection as such a need arises (it may not occur for decades - it all depends on the place). It is recommended to resort to a shaft structure in dachas and areas with a close level of groundwater.
2. What is a driving, or in other words, an Abyssinian well This is a design in which a steel pipe is driven into the ground until it reaches the underground water table. On its lower link there is a filter and a head with holes made in it, through which water will actually get inside this very steel pipe, and be pumped out from there by a pump.
3. What is a well chamber The option that people move to the country for permanent residence now not uncommon - hence the need for water constantly. In this case, a well chamber is built to protect electrical appliances from the effects of precipitation. The chamber is easy to build with your own hands from the same concrete rings or blocks with maximum waterproofing. Cover required.
4. What is a drill well This is such a water supply device when a well is drilled to the groundwater table. Then, to a depth of 7-8 meters, an ordinary sewer pipe(115 millimeters in diameter), after which, using a filter segment (such blue pipes made of polyethylene), water enters the pipe and climbs up.

Water supply from a well - both cold and hot: how to do it?

If the dacha already has a well (maybe made by hand, or maybe left over from the previous owners), then at a relatively low cost, it is possible to organize not only cold, but also hot water supply at home. In our case, an inexpensive submersible pump"Aquarius". The pipe exit from the well is waterproofed with silicone and cement. The distance from the well to the house is 5-6 m. So that there is no stagnation of water in the system, a valve is placed at the lowest level of the network.

We conduct water with our own hands - step by step

1. Using a cable, the pump was lowered into the well, preventing tension on the power cable and supply hose. Fixed the cable to the surface. A cap for water intake was installed on the supply hose.
2. We supply water to the house polyethylene pipe, stretched along the bottom of a trench 50 cm deep. In parallel, a second pipe was laid, inside which an electric cable was passed.
3. The supply pipe was connected to the - further part of the water supply using a check valve to prevent the water from draining back into the well. A mechanical (coarse) filter was installed.
4. They brought the supply hose into the house. A pressure switch, a pressure gauge and a fine filter were installed on the inlet dispensing unit. Connected everything to the mains.
5. After being cleaned and filtered, the water enters the accumulator, which supports the right pressure in a pressurized water supply system, saving the time to turn on the pump.
6. From the distributing unit, wiring was carried out along the walls of polypropylene pipes. The bathroom has a shower, sink and water heater.

Every summer resident who is puzzled by the question of its construction should know the requirements for the “correct” well.

Often on suburban area, not connected to a centralized water supply, cottage owners have to drill a well or dig a well. The task is not easy. But even in the event of a power outage, the well will provide continuous water supply.

With a relatively small depth of groundwater in the area (up to 40 m), shaft wells are constructed, water enters them through the bottom of the well (90%) and partially through loose wall joints (10%). The usual depth of such a well is 10-15 meters.

Summer plumbing

First, consider the water supply system in the country, which will be operated only in the summer. Such a water supply system is used for watering plants in the country, connecting and current household needs. In winter, its operation is not provided. Summer water supply in the country can be both permanent and collapsible.

The most common is the water supply, the pipes (hoses) of which lie directly on the ground. They make such a water supply system from simple rubber or silicone hoses connected to each other by adapters.

Connecting adapters are commercially available, they are made of galvanized steel or plastic. On sale there are also special latches on the one hand, which have "ruffs" where the hose is put on, and on the other hand there is a convenient spring-loaded connector. These latches can be connected and disconnected in one motion. They are quite capable of providing a reliable joint.

Note that when buying hoses, you need to take rubber ones with thick walls, which are reinforced with nylon fibers. Of course, plastic plumbing in the country will cost less, but such hoses will last longer - at least 15 years.

For permanent summer plumbing pipes must be laid in the ground, and water taps should be brought to the surface. In this case, it is enough to just cover the pipes with earth a little so as not to stumble over them and to protect them from theft.

The main disadvantage of a permanent summer water supply is the need to observe a slope to the connection point - to the main highway. At this lowest point of the water supply, a drain valve is placed in order to drain water for the winter. Otherwise, the water may freeze and break the pipes.

Now let's talk about more solid and capital schemes. Let's start with a description of the winter plumbing. Winter does not mean that it can only be used in winter, this name simply implies that the water supply is carried out according to a permanent scheme and it can be operated at any time of the year, even winter.

To supply water from a well, it is better to use a submersible pump. Its power is chosen depending on the depth from which water will be supplied. For a well up to ten meters deep, a rather small “brook” or “aquarius” is quite small. If water is supplied from a well, then you will have to buy a more powerful pump, which will cost much more.

Due to the fact that when installing a winter water supply, the pump must be connected to a voltage source, it is permissible to combine cable laying and water supply in a single casing made of plastic sewer pipes. It will protect well from freezing and mechanical damage.

Plumbing

For laying water pipes, you can use plastic pipes with soldered connections or special plastic fittings. For soldered joints, a special electric soldering iron is used. It is not very expensive, besides, in specialized stores, such soldering irons are often offered for rent. To install the pipeline, you will need a soldering iron for no more than a day. Connections on fittings are made with “bare hands” without a soldering iron. For a regular dacha, pipes with a diameter of 20 or 25 millimeters are quite suitable.

When laying a water pipe, pipes must be placed below the freezing level of the soil. The value of this value for each specific climatic zone can be found in special reference books. But often, in order not to dig too deep a trench, you can use one of the following methods:

• Fill the pipe laid at a depth of 60 centimeters with a 20-30 cm layer of insulation from foam plastic, furnace slag, expanded clay, etc. The main condition is that the insulation does not absorb moisture well and is strong enough.
• Insulate the pipeline with an insulation system consisting of special thermal insulation and a casing made of corrugated polyethylene. With the help of such a system, the depth of the trench can be made much smaller (about 30 centimeters).
• Lay a heating cable that allows you to lay pipes on the surface at all. But you have to pay a lot for electricity.

It should be noted that the trench should approach the house at a right angle, because it will be necessary to dig the foundation, which is fraught with its settlement and the formation of cracks in the wall.

To connect the pump to the water supply next to the well, it is necessary to arrange a pit, one meter deep and 70x70 centimeters in size. The walls of the pit are laid out with bricks, or they are strengthened in another way, for example, boards impregnated with an antiseptic. It would be more correct to fill the bottom of the pit with concrete or, in extreme cases, fill it with rubble and tamp it down.

A water pipe with a “ruff” is brought out and fixed into the pit for attaching the hose that comes from the pump, as well as the electrical wire. The function of the pit is that, if necessary, you can easily disconnect and remove the pump. The pit is insulated to prevent freezing of water in the pump hose.

To connect the pump, install a waterproof outlet or use a hermetic contact connector, better known as "father-mother". The main condition is that the pump can be safely connected and disconnected, even if the cable is energized.

Water folding devices

With how to make plumbing in the country, we decided. Now let's take a closer look at water-folding devices. For outdoor use, bronze or cast-iron gate valves, as well as ordinary taps with valve axle boxes, are quite suitable. Ball valves have an attractive appearance, but it is undesirable to use them: when the tap is in the open position for a long time or vice versa - closed, as well as with strong temperature fluctuations and exposure to precipitation - such taps can quickly fail.

The most complex water supply unit is a water-folding unit, which is located outdoors, or in an unheated room. Special requirements are placed on him, because he will have to work with negative temperatures. Usually use water columns. The disadvantage of the column is the complexity of installation and high cost.

What pipes for water supply in the country is better to prefer? How to combine them into a single water supply system? Is there any way to prevent this system from defrosting during cold weather?

Let's try to find out.

Choice

To begin with, let's try to understand what, in fact, we have to choose from. So, what materials are used in the construction of a water supply system?

Description

• Black steel compares favorably with the highest mechanical strength. The main disadvantage is susceptibility to corrosion and, as a result, a limited service life. When laying on the ground, the first fistulas on the threads may appear after 3-5 years.
• Cink Steel not only durable, but also resistant to corrosion. It would be an ideal material if it were not for the high price and labor-intensive installation with the need for welding or hand-threading.

However: country water supply is often assembled on ordinary garden hoses stretched over the ends of the pipe and tightened with clamps.

• Metal-plastic - an aluminum tube between two polymer layers. Decent strength, reasonable cost and easy installation make the material a good choice. You can only find fault with rather expensive fittings.

• Polypropylene is even cheaper than metal-plastic, it is light and durable. Alas, low-temperature welding is used for installation, which requires a special soldering iron and, more importantly, electricity, which is far from being available everywhere. Yes, buying or renting a diesel generator for a summer residence will solve the problem; but is it worth creating?
• Finally, polyethylene pipes compare favorably with polypropylene in that they are assembled on compression fittings. Unlike fittings for metal-plastic, polyethylene ones are extremely cheap and do not require the use of any tool: with a diameter of up to DN32, installation of HDPE pipes for water supply in the country is done by hand.

In the photo - bays of polyethylene pipes in a warehouse.

Price

Here are the average prices for the listed types of pipes for the most running diameter - 20 mm (3/4 inch).

Wow! But country water supply from plastic pipes turns out to be very profitable, and polyethylene looks the most advantageous.

Let's explore another parameter - frost resistance.

Defrost behavior

What happens to each of the tested materials if water freezes inside the pipe?

• Seam steel pipes, regardless of the presence or absence of an anti-corrosion zinc coating, will burst at the seam and require replacement.

• The metal-polymer ones will remain intact externally: only the aluminum core will be torn. Its damage will mean a sharp drop in the maximum working pressure of the water supply.

In addition: brass fittings are also very likely to be crushed by ice and become unusable.

• Polypropylene will only deform slightly in straight sections. The deformation will partially remain after defrosting.
• Finally, polyethylene, which remains elastic at low temperatures, will simply stretch and return to its original dimensions after the ice melts.

The conclusions seem to be obvious. Our choice is polyethylene pipes with compression fittings.

Installation

How to mount plastic water pipes for giving the type we have chosen?

There are, in general, few subtleties here.

1. From the outer side, cut to size of the pipe, a chamfer is preliminarily removed.
2. It is better not to try to insert the pipe into the assembled fitting by loosening the thread, but to completely disassemble it. Then the clamping nut, collet, thrust and sealing rings are successively put on the pipe. Finally, the pipe is inserted into the body of the fitting, after which the rings and collet are tightened with a nut by hand.

We repeat: for pipes with a diameter of up to 32 mm, the tool is not used. If you try to tighten the connection more, you will most likely strip the threads on the nut or body.

To connect plastic pipes with steel or brass threads (faucets, valves, etc.), the instruction is also not difficult: in this case, adapter fittings with a standard pipe thread. The metal part is pre-wound with FUM tape.

Don't forget when planning your layout stop valves, provide a valve to completely drain the water supply. As a rule, water is supplied to summer cottages only in the warm season; for the winter, despite the elasticity of polyethylene, it is better to drain the pipes.

Cold, cold

In some cases, however, plumbing has to be used at temperatures below zero ().

Examples? Please.

• In some regions of the country, short-term frosts during the summer season are normal. For example, in the Khabarovsk Territory, the first cold weather begins in late September - early October.
• In addition, cottages can be used all year round subject to autonomous water supply. A well or a well with a submersible pump will provide the house with water without any problems; the only problem is not to let her freeze.

The solution to this problem is pretty obvious: general case the water pipe is buried in the ground below the level of its freezing.

Sometimes, however, individual sections have to be laid on the surface. If, say, country houses from block containers installed directly on the ground surface allow water to be brought directly under them, then buried strip foundation on permafrost, such an opportunity will not be given.

For areas with year-round power supply, the simplest solution is to heat the water pipes in the country house with a self-regulating heating cable with a power of 16 W / m.

Why self-regulating? For reasons of energy saving. The power consumed by this cable depends on its temperature: when heated, the electrical resistance of the polymer matrix separating its cores increases, and when cooled, it decreases.

Useful: this feature at the same time protects the cable from overheating and failure when overlapping.

How to install a heating system?

There are two installation methods.

1. The cable is attracted to the pipe from the outside with polyethylene clamps or aluminum tape, after which the water supply is thermally insulated - with a foam shell, foamed polyethylene, etc.
2. In some cases, it is more convenient to pass the cable inside the pipe, since the tightness of the end sleeve allows this. To seal the cable entry point into the pipe, a special clamping sleeve with a rubber seal is used.

Conclusion

As always, additional thematic information can be found in the video in this article. Good luck!

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Any summer resident, and especially a city dweller accustomed to comfort, understands how necessary plumbing is in country house. Difficult to take care of without personal plot, it is impossible to use household appliances, even washing dishes or taking a shower is quite problematic. That is why the owner of the house, in the end, thinks about how to make plumbing in the country with his own hands. Self installation- this is a big savings and valuable experience that will come in handy for the maintenance or repair of the water supply system.

Ideally, the installation of a water supply system is discussed at the design stage of a house: they draw up a phased plan, draw layouts of pipes and mechanisms, calculate estimates, and purchase equipment. For the installation of a boiler and water meter unit, a small room on the ground floor with an area of ​​​​2-3 m² is suitable. By installing technical devices and a water inlet unit in the same room, it is convenient to monitor and regulate the water supply process.

Diagram of a water supply system using polypropylene pipes

The local water supply system consists of the following equipment:

• pipeline (metal, metal-plastic, polypropylene) with a set of fittings and valves;
• water-lifting mechanisms - a pumping station or a submersible pump;
• equipment for adjusting a certain pressure in the system - a pressure gauge, a pressure switch, a hydraulic accumulator (expansion tank);
• electrical escort with automatic protection;
• filters for water purification from pollution and suspended particles;
• water heater (preferably storage).

Some will be interested in how winter plumbing works in the country. So, the definition of "winter" does not mean that it is used only in winter. This device the water supply in the country has a capital scheme that works properly all year round.

It will also be useful material on how to properly supply water to a private house from a well or well:

Winter water supply in the country requires insulation of pipes from the place of water intake to the boiler unit

Installation of pumping equipment

Of course, laying a water pipe in a country house is impossible without a source of water. Usually, a pre-equipped well, a capturing spring chamber or a well is used. . For example, the water in a well is much cleaner, but drilling it will result in a large amount. It is much cheaper to dig a well, equip it with a submersible pump and install a three-stage water filter system.

• Submersible pump. Maintains a water level of 20 m, operates silently. pump with check valve supplement with a hydraulic accumulator, a filtration unit, automatic block and a distributing node with fittings. When choosing, pay attention to the material of the impeller. For contaminated water, it is better to use a stainless steel wheel.

The location of the pump depends on which pump is chosen, submersible or surface.

• Surface pump. They are used if the water level is less than 8 m. Installed indoors, connected to the well with a supply pipe.
• Automatic pumping station. The hydraulic part is separated from the electric motor by a partition. A diesel or gasoline generator is often used to pump groundwater or irrigate a site. The station consists of a pump, a hydraulic accumulator and an automation unit. The hydroaccumulation tank simultaneously acts as a reserve reservoir and also prevents the pump from being switched on frequently. Inexpensive pumping stations produce loud noise (for example, "Dzhileks"), so it is better to install new generation equipment (Grundfos JP, Espa Technoplus).

Features of laying plumbing in the house

A reliable water supply device in the country largely depends on the quality of the pipes. Reliable, durable material will allow you to avoid an early repair. Easily installed and excellent performance green polypropylene welded pipes from Banninger (diameter 25 mm). They are 30% more expensive than white traditional pipes (for example, "Pro Aqua"), but they are resistant to temperature extremes and maintain tightness even during frost.

For welding PP pipes, an “iron” soldering iron is used, which can be purchased at a store for 2-3 thousand rubles.

Soldering iron for polypropylene pipes can be rented - 250-300 rubles per day

Some components of the pipeline are assembled "on weight", and then mounted indoors. It must be remembered that about 8 cm of the pipe will be required for welding, so each segment of the water pipe is calculated in advance.

Some pipe elements are best fixed in place using special holders.

The place for laying pipes is chosen based on the layout of the rooms and ease of installation. If indoors are scheduled suspended structures, the traditional low installation above the floor can be replaced by a top installation - under false ceiling. Such pipe laying is optimal for a bathroom or kitchen.

The upper location of the pipes (under the ceiling) has its advantages: quick heating and prompt draining of water

An expansion tank is required to regulate the pressure in the pipes. 100 l capacity is enough for the plumbing system two-story house. This does not mean that the tank will be able to draw 100 liters of water, it is filled by about one third (at a pressure of 3 atm.). Therefore, if necessary, you should buy a larger expansion tank.

It is better to start the installation of water supply in the boiler unit with the installation of expansion and water heating tanks

There is a feature here. Expansion tanks for heating - red, tanks for water supply - blue.

Installation of water filters

In order for the water to be not just clean, but safe and healthy, it is necessary to install a multi-stage filtration system. A variety of filters in stores allows you to choose the most suitable model, depending on the composition of the water.

Suppose that the water in the well, which is used for home plumbing, rich in iron. In this case, a cleaning system of two filters is suitable, which can be installed in two identical flasks:

• 1 - ion-exchange filter that removes dissolved iron from water. An example of such a filter is Big Blue products. The cost of the flask is 1.5 thousand rubles, the cartridge is 3.5 thousand rubles. If the indicator of iron in water is 1 mg / l, then the cartridge life is 60 cubic meters.

To lubricate the sealing gum, plumbing petroleum jelly is used in order to remove the flask without hindrance in the future

• 2 - carbon filter for mechanical cleaning.

A carbon filter is necessary for both mechanical and chemical water purification.

To find out if the water is suitable for drinking, a sample should be taken for analysis. If the results are unsatisfactory, it is worth putting another filter, and be sure to boil the water before drinking.

Summer plumbing - temporary construction

The summer version of the water supply is suitable for summer residents who leave the city only in the warm season. The purpose of this system is to ensure the watering of beds and flower beds, the operation of the shower and household appliances. At the end of the season, the equipment is washed, disassembled and preserved until next summer.

It is easy to equip the summer water supply of the cottage with your own hands. To do this, use a system of flexible hoses with adapters. The main pressure falls on the connecting elements, so they are made of plastic or galvanized steel. Steel elements are stronger and more stable than plastic counterparts, but they are also more expensive.

Summer water supply in the country is used only during the warm period

There are two options for laying hoses (pipes):

• The water supply is located on the surface of the soil. Plus - easy installation and dismantling. The downside is the possibility of breakage.
• Pipes are buried shallow in the ground, only cranes come to the surface. During operation, the system does not interfere, and if desired, it is easy to dig out and dismantle it.

One of the purposes of the summer water supply is watering the beds. Pipes lie freely on the surface of the earth

You should know how to make water supply in the country so that at the end of the season you can easily drain the water from the pipes. To do this, create a slight slope for draining. A valve is installed at the lowest point of the water supply: water is drained through it so that in winter, when it freezes, it does not break pipes and hoses.

When installing a winter or summer system, it is necessary to monitor the safety of the electrical network. For this purpose, sealed connectors and waterproof sockets are used.

many owners country houses, they begin to build a country house only after they have carried water to the site. Even during the construction of a frame country house, in which it seems that water is not needed anywhere, there will always be a place for concrete and mortars for "gravy", "grease", foundation construction work, which means that water will also be required. In addition, water, as the basis of life, will always be found when using our 6 acres for its intended purpose. Watering the garden and garden, washing the car, paving slabs with which the yard is paved, and of course their own washing. So the supply of water to the summer cottage is a paramount issue - that is why in this article we will try to consider the maximum number of issues related to the water supply of the summer cottage and the plot.

If a central water supply system passes near the site, the solution of the problem is not always significantly simplified. Soviet water pipelines are dilapidated and almost completely worn out (recently, when replacing an old water supply system, a comrade dug up a cast-iron inlet pipe with the stamp of 57 - the cast iron literally crumbled into pieces in his hands). And new water pipelines are rarely laid in modern Russia, it is very expensive, and in order to achieve this, one has to apply almost directly to the President (everyone probably remembers the story of the woman who turned to him for help in this matter).

Therefore, in order not to depend on someone's goodwill and use water as much as necessary, the summer resident has only two options: a well or wells, although, by the way, many experienced summer residents combine both options - even more substantial savings are obtained.

From the list of solutions to the issue of country water supply, we excluded the use of natural reservoirs in advance - you yourself know what kind of ecology, it can be scary to use not only for the kitchen and for irrigation, and despite the fact that the Slavs have always tried to build dwellings near the water, they are far away from the dachas not everyone cares.

Criteria for choosing the type of country water supply and water supply

Here, as in the well-known proverb, you need to measure everything seven times, that is, calculate in advance how much water you will need for normal living at the dacha of the whole family, and do this even with a small margin.

The calculation should be made taking into account all points of water consumption and water intake, taking into account the amount of their constant use by all family members. The most water-consuming objects should also be taken into account - a sauna, a bathhouse, a swimming pool in the country, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe site allotted for growing vegetables, an orchard, which in some regions is now difficult to grow without irrigation.

With each liter of water counted in water consumption, the proposed future source of water supply should also become more abundant.

When locating a water supply source, be sure to take into account the fact that every ten meters of the pipeline will reduce the pump head by 1 meter. This is necessary so that water can be delivered to the most remote corners of the site, garden.

With a small flow of water - for example, if you use the house only as a summer home and a place to relax, you can make a shaft well. It is easy to build, relatively inexpensive, and all the work on its device is easy to do with your own hands. It is fed with water at the expense of groundwater, the depth of which varies from 4 to 15 meters.

The device of a mine well is the simplest: a cap above the ground, underground reinforced concrete rings or a frame made of wooden beams, usually 25 cm thick.

The shaft of such a country well should be deepened into the aquifer by 3, and even better by four meters. At the bottom of the shaft well, soybeans of sand, gravel, crushed stone, each of which should be 20-25 centimeters thick, are alternately poured, and later they will act as a natural filter to purify the incoming water. Many, in addition to the bottom flow of water, also make holes in the concrete rings so that it comes from the sides. After that, a submersible pump is installed at the bottom.

The amount of water that a shaft-type well can provide cannot, of course, be calculated in advance. Whether it will be possible to do this after its construction - for this, the initial volume of water that has entered it by gravity is calculated, after which it is pumped out with a pump and the time is measured after which it will be filled again to the previous mirror.

In principle, it is always enough for a normal water supply for a summer cottage, they also dry up extremely rarely, in my practice of a “shabashnik” this happened only a few times, and even then after pumping out the water and cleaning and disinfecting the well, the water began to flow again.

If the groundwater is deep.

If a suitable aquifer is located at a depth of more than 15 meters and deeper, then the option with a well is eliminated, in which case a well will have to be drilled. They are drilled "on sand" and "on limestone". Let's explain:

Drilling a well in sand is much faster, much cheaper, and so much easier that if you borrow a tool from someone, even an inexperienced person can handle this job.

To construct a well in sand, you will only need a pump, a filter mesh, and a steel casing with a diameter of 125-133 mm.

Drilling a well "on the sand" takes no more than two days. Such a well will provide you with a volume of water equal to a cube per hour. This is not much, but it is enough for most site owners.

Among the disadvantages of drilling a well “on sand”, it can be noted that the water from it is not very clean, and, therefore, the well will “silt up” over time. As a rule, even if it is not used very intensively, the life of the well “on sand” is 4-5 years.

Artesian well or limestone well it is expensive, it takes a long time, 90% of summer residents will not be able to drill it on their own, but ... It serves for a long time, from 30 to 75 years (depending on the amount and concentration of suspensions), it can give out "to the mountain" from 5 to 100 cubic meters of water per hour ( at a depth of 30 meters).

Drilling artesian wells or wells "on limestone"

The most commonly used method is to run the casing to the limestone layer through the clay layers. The next stage is the “opening” of the limestone layer, which is drilled with the so-called “open hole”, to the very aquifer.

In order to avoid damage to the rock through which surface water can penetrate deep into, grouting is used, which consists in pouring a small volume of cement-sand mortar through a special steel pipe under the limestone layer. There is such a peculiar filling of cracks through which contaminated surface water could get into the "artesian".

By the way:

This type of wells is even required to obtain a special "well passport".

Using the so-called European well drilling technology (so-called because the same technology was used a long time ago in some regions of the USSR), the well device is of a two-pipe nature. The first pipe with a large diameter stands on the limestone itself, after which a well is drilled with a final, working diameter. In order to avoid contamination of the artesian well with surface water, a compactonite clay sealing plug is made between the two types of used pipes.

Such a well will cost more than an ordinary one-pipe well by more than 50%. As a rule, several neighbors drill them together, but even that comes out all the same expensive. Their very existence at such a cost is explained by the very high quality of water.

Lifting water from a well or well

So, we got to the rise of water from a well or well. To establish the supply of water from a not very deep mine well, the vast majority of summer residents use surface pumps. The main condition and application is the distance from the water source to the house: in most designs of such pumps, it cannot be more than 50 meters (or rather, it can - there will be no sense).

If the well is deep, or a filter well is used to extract water, the same surface pumps, but already ejector ones. More often, submersible well pumps are used, which can easily “master” a distance of 40 meters (depth).

Well, if you are a happy owner of an artesian well, then you will have to use a submersible borehole pump, which is quite capable of lifting water from a depth of 100 meters.

If there is a desire to automate the whole thing, then you will have to resort to buying a CAB (autonomous water supply system), which consists directly of the pump itself, a hydraulic accumulator and a control pressure switch. The thing is great but expensive for many.

Pros and cons of different methods of extracting water

1. mine well. (Number 1 on the drawing-scheme)

The work is labor intensive. Despite the fact that much of its construction can be done with your own hands, you will have to call in equipment and assistants, at least at the stage of digging, removing the earth from the well space and lowering concrete rings there.

The advantages of the shaft well design are obvious: the possibility of self-repair, cleaning and disinfection as such a need arises (it may not occur for decades - it all depends on the place). It is recommended to resort to a shaft structure in dachas and areas with a close level of groundwater.

2. What is driving or otherwise Abyssinian well.(Number 2 on the drawing-scheme)

This is a design in which a steel pipe is hammered into the ground until it reaches the underground water table. On its lower link there is a filter and a head with holes made in it, through which the water will actually get inside this very steel pipe and be pumped out from there by a pump.

3. What is well chamber. (Number 3 on the drawing-scheme)

The option that people move to the dacha for permanent residence and give their apartment (or rent) to the young is not uncommon now - therefore, water is constantly needed. In this case, a well chamber is built to protect electrical appliances from the effects of precipitation. The chamber is easy to build with your own hands from the same concrete rings or blocks with maximum waterproofing. Cover required.

4. What is drilling well(Number 4 on the drawing-scheme)

This is such a water supply device when a well is drilled to the groundwater table. Then, to a depth of 7-8 meters, an ordinary sewer pipe (115 millimeters in diameter) is mounted in it, after which, using a filter segment (such blue polyethylene pipes), water enters the pipe and climbs up.

Water supply from a well - both cold and hot: how to do it?

If there is already a well in the dacha (maybe dug with your own hands or maybe left over from the previous owners), then at a relatively low cost, you can organize not only cold, but also hot water supply at home. In our case, an inexpensive submersible pump "Aquarius" was used to lift the water. The pipe exit from the well is waterproofed with silicone and cement. The distance from the well to the house is 5-6 m. So that there is no stagnation of water in the system, a valve is placed at the lowest level of the network.

We conduct water with our own hands - step by step

1. Using a cable, lower the pump into the well, avoiding tension on the power cable and supply hose. Fixed the cable to the surface. A cap for water intake was installed on the supply hose.

2. We supply water to the house through a polyethylene pipe stretched along the bottom of a trench 50 cm deep. At the same time, a second pipe was laid, inside which an electric cable was passed.

3. The supply pipe was connected to - the further part of the water supply using a check valve to prevent the water from draining back into the well. A mechanical (coarse) filter was installed.

4. Bring the supply hose into the house. A pressure switch, a pressure gauge and a fine filter were installed on the inlet dispensing unit. Connected everything to the mains.

5. After being cleaned and filtered, the water enters the accumulator, which maintains the required pressure in the pressurized water supply system, saving the time the pump is turned on.

6. From the distributing unit, wiring was carried out along the walls of polypropylene pipes. The bathroom has a shower, sink and water heater.

More about the device of the well.

Every summer resident who is puzzled by the question of its construction should know the requirements for the “correct” well.

Often, in a suburban area that is not connected to a centralized water supply, cottage owners have to drill a well or dig a well. The task is not easy. But even in the event of a power outage, the well will provide continuous water supply.

With a relatively small depth of groundwater in the area (up to 40 m), shaft wells are constructed, water enters them through the bottom of the well (90%) and partially through loose wall joints (10%). The usual depth of such a well is 10-15 meters.

Signs and signs of the close occurrence of groundwater

1. The surest sign (unfortunately of course) is water in the basement, cellar.

2. The proximity of natural water bodies - lakes, rivers.

3. Dense evening fog in the absence of water bodies.

4. Juicy dense grass even in hot summers, not withering in the heat.

5. Plants on the site that need in large numbers moisture.

6. Midges and mosquitoes in the air after sunset

7. Mochar on the site and covering the ground in some places with a light layer of moss.

How to start making a well

The best time to dig a well is autumn. In autumn, as a rule, the groundwater level is the lowest. Otherwise, you can “under-dig”, and the well will come out dry.

If the site is hilly and has elevations and irregularities in the landscape, then for the construction of a well fit better most high place- sounds strange, but it's right, and here's why.

According to the laws of gravity, surface water, which most often pollutes the well, will flow away from the well, and not towards it, therefore the water in the well will be cleaner. Avoid the banks of rivers and places with a sharp change in terrain due to possible fluctuations in the level of groundwater. Minimum distance from pollution sources ( cesspool, parking, toilet) - 25 m, from the house - 4-5 m - this requirement must be observed.

Despite technological advances, well digging is still manual labor. The walls are traditionally reinforced with wood, concrete, stone or brick. The sinking process has become much simpler with the advent of reinforced concrete rings (more often they use rings "KS 10-9" or similar ones with a height of 0.9 meters and a diameter of 1 meter).

The initial ring is mounted on the bottom of the prepared pit, the next ones are added from above one by one as the soil is excavated from under the bottom one, which gradually settles. One or two rings are installed in the aquifer. After that, the joints are sealed with mortar, and the bottom is covered with a layer of gravel or gravel 20-30 cm thick - it serves as a filter for incoming water.

The space around the mine is covered with gravel and sand, and starting from the depth of freezing of the soil, a so-called “castle” is made of clay, which is needed to prevent surface and especially melt water from entering the well.

Packed clay is an excellent water seal, so additional waterproofing is not needed. On top of the clay, a concrete pavement is made with a hard surface and a slight slope for drainage. A well shaft made of concrete rings is absolutely waterproof for groundwater, therefore, with proper construction, you will always have pure water.

Do-it-yourself well - drawing 1 and photo

On the diagram-drawing in numbers:

• cap
• rings
• ventilation tube
• blind area
• clay castle
• aquifer
• waterproof soil
• reservoir

In the photo (on the right), in numbers, the stages of building a well from concrete rings:

1. Laying the first ring
2. Installation of the second ring
3. Sealing with mortar
4. backfilling

We make the head of the well

As soon as the last ring is installed and the water level in the well is sufficient, we take up the construction of the ground part. The original and beautifully designed cap (outer part of the well) will become worthy decoration your site.

The head should protrude above the ground by about 1 m, and the shaft itself should be closed with a lid. A roof is erected over it in the form of a closed house, a canopy or a gazebo. A well-made roof will protect the well from dust, precipitation, foreign objects and leaves.

Gates are used to lift water various designs, manual or mechanical pumps. Cranes - popular in the villages lifting devices- too bulky for small summer cottages, so they are rarely used here.

Shaft well - installation of a "log house underground"

The installation of an ordinary, mine well with walls made of timber or logs is done by simply digging the soil under the log house.

Logs for logging a well must be taken of high quality, waste from the bathhouse or other residues after construction will not work.

Be sure to check the logs for mold, wood beetle grinder, fungus, etc. The forest should be taken only dry and nothing else - the opinion “it will get wet anyway” is erroneous.

Typically, the thickness of the forest for the installation of a well log house according to the mine type ranges from 20-22 centimeters. I think that the forest intended for these purposes should be cleared of excess bark and knots.

To facilitate installation, the crowns of the log house must be assembled on the surface by making the usual log marks. After that, the crowns are disassembled in a strict sequence, so as not to confuse the queue during assembly, and lowered into the shaft, where they are tightly adjusted on the spot.

At the next stage, in the middle of each of the 4 sides of the log house, a sample of land is made by 25-30 centimeters, after which the pores at the corners of the log house remove the supports in turn. The supports released from under the corners are brought to the places where the soil was chosen from and fixed there, again, in turn. Now they dig out the soil at the corners of the log house, as a result of which the structure lowers, and this work must be repeated until you reach the groundwater level.

The gap that is formed between the walls of the log house and the pit (from the outside) is covered with the same soil that was taken out of the pit and rammed as tightly as possible. After that, you can go down into the well shaft and trim its walls.

What should be the taste of water from a wooden well

The taste of water in wooden wells largely depends on the wood. It is better to choose alder, linden or birch: the flavor will be almost invisible. True, these breeds are durable. A log house made from undried pine will give the water a resinous flavor. And the water from the aspen well is slightly bitter at first. Most of all, larch is used for the construction of wells. She, like oak, does not give any "suspicious" smells and serves 20-25 years.

Well care

Inspect and, if necessary, clean your well, it is necessary to do this according to the recommendations of the old “well affairs” masters at least twice a year.

Garbage can also be removed with a bucket, but it is better to prepare a long pole in advance with a hook on one side and a stack like a net on the other.

We think it is unnecessary to say that one should not climb into the well alone.

Before descending into the well, check its gas contamination.

The general rule of working in a well is to check its gas content, it is always recommended to do it, regardless of whether there is a gas outlet or a swamp nearby. The easiest way is a candle on a string: it burns evenly - everything is fine, the flame fluctuates and gradually fades - there is gas, but it is not much, and if it goes out, then there is a lot of gas and you can’t go down.

If the well is old...

In practice, if you bought a plot with a well in the secondary market, then you cannot use the well - it must be cleaned, you never know what the old owners dropped there (well, if not on purpose - people are different, especially in our time).

An old well should be thoroughly cleaned by pumping water out of it. Pump out water gradually: after lowering the water level by 30 centimeters - half a meter, start cleaning the walls, then pump out the same volume of water again and continue cleaning, and repeat until you reach the bottom, which needs to be cleaned especially carefully.

After cleaning, the well and the outer house are disinfected with a 10-15% bleach solution: the walls are impregnated with it 2-3 times. Then the remains of the solution are poured into the well, mixed with water and in this state for 24-48 hours. At the same time, the head of the well is carefully covered with a tarpaulin so that chlorine does not evaporate. The first water that fills the well after cleaning must be pumped out.

On a note:

When digging a well, the approach of the aquifer is determined by a noticeable cooling: the air temperature in the well drops by a couple of degrees, and mini-fontanelles appear on the walls of the mine.

A well is a sacred place, a place of almost all peoples. Christians on the eve of big church holidays(Easter, Christmas, Epiphany) the water in the well was considered miraculous. They washed themselves with it, consecrated buildings, kneaded bread on it. Children were washed with water from a new well so that they would not cry.

The well requires a serious approach. In the village, the “well” traditions are still observed: do not arrange gatherings and picnics near the well, do not smoke or swear near it, do not give water from your well to ill-wishers and strangers, treat the well with respect.

Pumps for summer cottages - how to choose the right one, what they generally are

Of course, the type of pump for water supply country house and the site will depend on the type of water source and its parameters in the form of the number of points that consume water and such characteristics as diameter, total volume of water, and, of course, depth. The concentration level of suspended matter in water is also a very important characteristic.

You will actually have to choose based on the above of three types - a borehole pump, a pump for a well or an automatic water supply station.

The simplest and cheapest solution is submersible well pump(of course, if you chose a well of one of the types considered above for the water supply of the dacha).

Such a pump will easily provide a small amount of precious moisture. country house, and of course watering.

Its design is simple: stainless steel body, motor, start relay, centrifugal pump.

It does not require installation as such - tie it to a stronger string and lower it into the well, not reaching the bottom 1 meter.

A submersible well pump can pump out up to 6 cubic meters per hour from a depth of up to 10 meters (we don’t even honor manufacturers’ assurances about 30 meters or more, they make the sellers in stores angry, because pumps are often returned back with scandals, they simply don’t pull such depths ).

Some trade marks they produce submersible pumps with a base - they can be placed on a clean bottom of the tank.

Also, one of the advantages of submersible pumps is the fact that they are practically insensitive to water quality, they are equipped with a filter at the inlet. In favor of these words is the fact that the masters "wells" for many years digging wells carry the same pump with them to pump out the first muddy water from the customer's well, and only after that I connect the owner's pump when water is coming already clean.

The cooling of submersible pumps is natural, due to the pumping of cold transported water through itself.

This type of pump is quiet, does not require maintenance (it works according to the principle: it is broken - it is cheaper to buy a new one).

Of the minuses, relatively (compared to borehole pumps) large dimensions. The consumption of electricity, and the lack of automation - will pump until you turn it off.

Downhole pumps (deep pumps)

Actually, everything is said in the name - they are needed for lifting and supplying water from wells, from great depths up to 40 meters inclusive.

Choose exactly knowing the depth of the well, and having calculated at least approximately your need for water. A well passport with a characteristic of the number of liters of water per hour will help you and, of course, advice from the one who drilled the well for you (if you did not drill it yourself).

They don’t buy a borehole pump with a margin - if the water is pumped out earlier, it will idle, and this is for borehole pumps unacceptable load and a moment that largely determines their service life.

The dimensions are very compact, allowing them to extract water even from very narrow wells. The water pressure is excellent - on the spot, you can water a third of our standard plots of 6 acres.

Additionally.

Most perfect option water supply using pumps is, of course, automatic, arranged with the help of a pump, a hydraulic accumulator, a pressure gauge, a pressure switch, shut-off and check valves. With this design, there is enough water for everything and for a washing machine and a dishwasher and for washing a car and for watering and showering.

home station

Pumping station operating in automatic mode most The best decision for autonomous water supply of summer cottages. It replaces the submersible pump and supplies water from 10 meter water storage tanks. It has the already mentioned accumulator, relays, mesh filters, etc.

The core of the system is a pump, it can be either centrifugal or vortex.

Vortex will provide smaller dimensions than centrifugal, it costs less and gives more pressure. The main disadvantage of the vortex pump is that it does not tolerate even the slightest water pollution and quickly fails.

ANS with centrifugal pump“indifferent” to the quality of water - it pumps what it has, it can be equipped with an ejector, which further enhances its power and will allow pumping water from 20-25, and in some cases, more than meters.

Cons: Very noisy.

There are also many other options for a separate, autonomous water supply, given the annual improvement of manufacturers in this area. Every year, water filtration methods are improved, the productivity of pumps is growing, and, therefore, it is always possible to increase the depth of a future well to improve the amount of water.

How to calculate the amount of water you need.

Daily and weekly water costs can be determined by knowing the flow rate at all water intake points. The water consumption norms provided for various plumbing devices and appliances will help you with this.

On a note:

Watering the lawn will require at least three cubic meters of water per square meter. At the same time, water consumption can either increase or decrease due to the method of irrigation - fan, drip, automatic irrigation by time of day.

Irrigation of lawns and flower beds requires 3-6 cubic meters of water per square meter, while the consumption also depends on the method of irrigation and the intensity of irrigation.

Calculation of water pressure - formula

To calculate the pump head you need, use the formula below:

"Htr \u003d Hgeo + S + Hsvob".

"Ngeo"- the height of the pipeline entering the building relative to the water level in the well (which must be indicated in the well certificate).

S- the sum of all pressure losses, taking into account friction in the water supply and other parts of the system.

Nsvob- the pressure that is needed at the point of entry into the house, taking into account the provision at the highest and most remote point of the water consumption of the pressure value (0.5 atmospheres).

Interesting fact:

Water-lifting devices, consisting of a wheel and trays and jugs attached to it, were known in antiquity to many peoples. The wheel rotated by the force of the river, the water scooped up by jugs moved by gravity along the trays over long distances. Later, the simplest pumps appeared, made of wood with a movable piston for drawing water from a well. In the first century BC, a Greek scientist constructively described the first fire extinguishing pump.

1. Be sure to compare those parameters and water quality characteristics with those recommended by the pump manufacturer in the REU.
2. Make sure the pump is equipped with surge protection, " idle move”, sealed, resistant to water hammer.
3. Be sure to read the instructions for installing the pump and its installation - even if you don’t install it yourself, you will control the situation when the installers start installing it.
4. A guarantee for a pump and a service is far from empty for them and must be - pumps work under heavy load and their failure is not such a rarity.
5. I don’t advise you to take pumps with a plastic case; in general, when buying, pay close attention to the quality of the case.

Principle of operation drainage pump

An impeller with blades is fixed on the drive shaft of the drainage pump. Through the suction grate at the bottom of the pump, the pumped water enters the rotating vane channel. Here, entrained by the impeller into rotation, it acquires a significant speed and radial (from the center to the periphery) pressure. At the outlet of the impeller, the liquid leaves the pump in an intense flow through the nozzle.

float switch

This is a device that is used as a pumped water level sensor to control the operation of the pump. Usage float switch prevents the pump from running without water (dry running protection), thereby protecting it from failure.

Built into the float circuit breaker, which (when the pumped water drops below a certain level and the float lowers) opens the contacts in the power circuit of the pump motor, thereby interrupting its operation. When the water level rises, the float rises and when a certain level is reached, the engine power circuit closes and the pump resumes operation.

We decorate the well - do-it-yourself decorative wooden head

Mine wells assembled from gray concrete rings naturally will not improve the appearance of a summer cottage. Therefore, somehow you will have to ennoble this business with your own hands. Hiring a carpenter or joiner because of such a trifle is reluctant - after all, the process is creative, and you want to fulfill the idea on your own.

And in the case of decorative well(these can often be seen in cottages in a rural style or "country style") even simpler - excavation will not be required at all, since the well is installed directly on the ground. Rack anchors driven into the ground will prevent the structure from tipping over in strong winds. The role of a well reservoir will be played by an ordinary barrel for irrigation. Water is supplied to the container using a hose laid in one of the racks, and a pump. A bucket on a chain plays a decorative role in the design. There is no need to scoop water from above, bending over under the weight of the bucket: an additionally installed drain valve at the bottom of the well solves the problem. It is enough to substitute the container and turn the handle!

Stage one: preparation of wooden blanks

1. Draw a horizontal projection of an octagonal well on a piece of drawing paper on a scale of 1:1.

2. From a bar with a section of 38 x 68 mm, cut pieces 35.5 cm long on the outside. Cut the ends at a 45° angle.

3. Lay out the trial parts directly on the plan. If the dimensions are correct, you can start cutting. A total of 88 parts are needed.

4. For the threaded rods on which the log parts are assembled, drill the segments through from one end.

Stage 2: Assembly of the well

1. Put the bars of the first row on the rods equipped with nuts and washers. Lubricate the joints (ends) with glue and additionally strengthen with self-tapping screws.

2. Lay row after row, in each subsequent row shifting the bars relative to the rod. Also use an additional glue joint between rows.

3. After laying the last row, saw off the threaded rods flush and file them. Washers and nuts "drown", after countersinking the holes.

4. In one of the segments of the upper row, pre-drill a hole d = 26 mm to install a hose that supplies water to the barrel.

5. One of the racks will hide the water supply. Make a groove for the hose in it: make two parallel cuts circular saw, then take out the wood with a chisel.

6. Attach the posts to the sump body with four mounting bolts (8 x 140 mm). Drill holes d = 8.5 mm in advance, insert the nuts inside.

7. After fixing the stands, install the water supply. Since the water pressure will be low, simple plastic hose fittings will suffice.

8. The parapet of the well is formed by bars laid horizontally and beveled at the ends by 22.5 °. In two segments, first make cuttings for the racks.

9. The rods alternately pass through one of the elements of every second row. Details are strung in a checkerboard pattern.

Stage 3: Installation of the roof

1. The supporting structure of the roof consists of two triangular "pediments" screwed together from bars. For added strength, add an adhesive joint.

2. Connect the pediments with six bars - they will serve as a crate for the roof. Compose the skate from two angled and glued bars.

3. Lay a roof over the crate - a simple or tongue-and-groove board. It will be possible to lay the existing roofing material on top.

4. In order for the roof structure to rest securely on the racks, stiffen the corners on both sides with braces. To do this, chamfer the bars by 45° and screw them on.

5. Make the axis of the gate from a thin log d = 9 cm. For the main necks, use round rods d = 2.8 cm. For the crank, take a bar 23 cm long and drill it (hole diameter 2.8 cm).

6. Install the main journals with waterproof glue in drilled holes. From the side of the handle, release the neck behind the rack by about 5 cm. Put the crank on this outlet, after lubricating it with glue. When the glue dries, additionally strengthen the junction with a dowel.

7. Strengthen the gable boards by sawing them off with a bevel from the side of the ridge. A small protrusion of the boards towards the roof is designed to hide the edge of the roofing material.

8. If the well is “fake” and only masks the water column, then the design of the gate is similar to the real one, but plays a purely decorative role: the root necks passed through the racks are glued tightly into them and cannot rotate.

Do-it-yourself summer water supply in the country

The water supply in the dacha, where they live in the summer, and the rest of the time they come for the weekend (or less often), differs from the water supply of the cottage. Firstly, in the house where they stay constantly and all year round, there is always a positive temperature, which cannot be said about summer cottages. Secondly, when installing a water pipe outside the city, it is necessary to provide for the supply of water not only to the house, but also to the bathhouse, summer kitchen, greenhouse. Thirdly, summer water supply is used mainly in summer, and is not used in winter. Depending on your needs and the frequency of visiting the cottage, a stationary or collapsible water supply system is selected. The second option is as simple as possible in the device and consists of simple hoses lying directly on the ground. In the autumn they are put away for storage in a barn.

Choosing pipes

For a stationary summer water supply scheme, pipes are laid in the ground, and only water taps are brought to the surface. The choice of pipes comes between two types - polyethylene (HDPE) and polypropylene (PP). HDPE pipes are cheaper, but it is unlikely that it will be possible to save much, since the components for them will be expensive. Polypropylene pipes are more expensive, but they have a lower cost of related materials. True, for the installation of polypropylene pipes you will need a special soldering iron.

How to avoid freezing plumbing

Both polyethylene and polypropylene pipes frost resistant. For the possible winter use of the water supply, they are placed in the ground to a depth of 1.5 meters (below the freezing level of the soil in middle lane). If you plan to use water only in summer, one meter of depth is enough. It makes sense to dig a trench only to a residential building - pipes can be laid directly on the surface in the garden and vegetable garden.

The insulation system will save the water supply during winter use, if you do not want to deepen it. Special thermal insulation of pipes and a polyethylene corrugated casing will allow laying pipes to a depth of up to 30 cm. Another option is laying a heating cable, which will make it possible to place pipes directly on the surface.

The optimal diameter of the pipes: 15 mm is usually enough in the house, pipes with an inner diameter of 20 mm or 25 mm are used for plumbing, the inlet pipe must be at least 32 mm.

Calculation

Before buying all necessary details study the place where the water will come from (the diameter of the valve, if it is already there, must match the diameter of the pipes). Next, determine where the outlets will be - for example, at the greenhouse, near the platform for the car, etc. Then draw a diagram on the site plan - how you will run the pipes from the water exit point. The plan will allow you to more accurately calculate the number of parts needed and help you communicate with the seller.

Drainage Tips

• When connecting a water heater, provide a tee and a tap for discharging used water with a hose nozzle
• To drain more than 50 liters from a water heater, provide a branch that will not go into a septic tank or loss, otherwise you will have to dump water into the street, which is not only not aesthetically pleasing, but also inconvenient.
• Traditional ceramic mixers or taps with rubber seals are less sensitive to residual water freezing.

On a note:

The main disadvantage of a permanent water supply, which is used only in summer, is the correct slope of all pipes of the system, namely, all of them must go with a slope to the tie-in connection.

As a rule, the tie-in is the lowest point of the water supply, usually a valve is made here, which is designed to drain water for the winter or in case of repair of the water supply.

Summer water supply does not have to be autonomous (from a well or well) - it can also be connected to main water supply(if he is). In this case, there is no need to drill a well or dig a well, save electricity, but there is a monthly fee for the use of water.

Conservation of plumbing for the winter

If the dacha is not heated in winter, then you will have to drain the water from the system every time before a long departure, absence.

Draining will be more convenient if, in front of the check valve of the pipe through which water enters the house, install wiring, a tee and a tap for emergency draining.

The same tap will be needed at the lowest point of each pipe branch in the house. Remember to remove water from washing machines, toilet bowls, etc. devices. In these cases, simply draining the water is not enough - the units will need to be turned over or blown through with a compressor. The water from the toilet should be pumped out (or filled with salt) so that in winter it does not freeze and the toilet does not burst. The sequence of actions is as follows: first, the pipeline supplying it is freed from water, then the liquid is removed from the water heater, then drained washing machine and plumbing. After draining, the residual water in the expansion tank membrane tank should not damage it when freezing.

Polypropylene plumbing

First, all threaded connections are assembled, then they are attached to the pipe. The most difficult thing is to assemble the threaded connections so that water does not leak from them. IN threaded connection one part has an external thread, the other has an internal thread. A fum tape is carefully wound onto the external thread (6-7 layers are enough, but if the thread is completely bad, then more is possible).

Then they screw and tighten the parts, pressing them tightly against each other, making sure not to skew. After that, you can gently tighten the details with a key, without fanaticism, of course.

To fix the pipe in the coupling, it is evenly cut with a hacksaw.

After loosening the clamping nut as much as possible, insert the pipe tightly. The pipe, which has gone into the coupling all the way, continues to be pushed further - another two centimeters. When the pipe finally stops, tighten the clamping nut.

Assembling a summer plumbing system in the country with your own hands - a description of the photo

1. We measure and cut the pipes, clean their ends from burrs, take a welding machine.

2. Welding of polypropylene pipes. The technology is simple: the element of the apparatus is heated to the melting temperature of the pipe, a sleeve is put on one sleeve, a pipe is inserted into the other. The pipe and coupling are melted, they are removed from the apparatus and inserted into each other. Frozen, they form a single whole.

3. Install a tee - branching water into the house and the garden. Let's make a conclusion to the crane. If in the future such a water supply is planned to be finalized and, for example, increased, put a plug.

4. We put the coupling nut on the tape, screw it on plastic pipe with a faucet. It will be very convenient with its help to preserve the water supply for the winter.

5. Entering water into the house. The water inlet hole was made more than 2 years ago when the kitchen and sink were installed. The drain then went into the pit.

6. Ready plumbing in the house with a flow filter. In total, at least two filters are needed - a standard mesh filter and a flow filter with one container.

Water analysis, purification and filtration

Sanitary services monitor the quality of drinking water in the city. Outside the city, all responsibility lies with the owners of summer cottages. How to know if water is safe or full harmful substances harmful to health? Laboratory analysis of water will give a detailed answer, what exactly we will drink under the guise of a clear liquid. Water sampling for research will be done either by a specialist or by you.

The most polluting water is runoff from poorly insulated pit latrines. From there we get bacteria and viruses, worm eggs. Domestic sewage will give water surface-active substances (surfactants), salts, complex aromatic hydrocarbons, phosphates, nitrates and nitrites. Mineral and organic fertilizers add calcium, carbonates, sulfates, chlorides. And after washing your own car on the site, you will get oil products, particles of lead, cadmium and other heavy metals (they are abundant in the soil along highways). And if we can wash the car at a car wash, then what about the water after washing clothes and other inevitable drains? The way out is to install an affordable filtration system and reliable treatment facilities. By the way, when ordering filtration or sewer installations the company you contact will most likely offer you a water test for free.

Where to do?

Laboratory research with quantitative indicators of harmful substances is carried out at the sanitary and epidemiological station, in scientific organizations or specialized laboratories. A protocol with the results and a conclusion on the suitability of water will be given to you in 1-2 days. It is better to do a complete analysis during the initial examination of the source, and then conduct an annual preventive examination.

What are water tests?

• basic (general assessment of the state of water according to 7-16 main indicators)
• complete (about 40 indicators)
• specific (for individual indicators at the request of the customer)

How to send water for analysis

1. Sterile container for bacteriological analysis (purchased at a pharmacy or sterilized by steam ourselves).

2. We take a sample “under the neck”, so that water does not come into contact with the strongest natural oxidizing agent - oxygen.

3. For chemical analysis, water can be brought in clean plastic bottle from under mineral water rinsed with a pre-tested sample.

4. Before drawing water from the well, pump the system for at least 10 minutes.

Plot column

Inside the light construction of a garden, decorative standpipe, between two wooden racks, a galvanized pipe and a threaded fitting are hidden, only a drain valve with front side. In fact, the column is a holder for a pipe, water to which is supplied by any accessible way: from a well or from central water supply. The panel on the rear side is easily unscrewed and removed, so the supply "pipeline" is always available for repair.

The only difficulty is that the construction will require a concrete foundation with a depth of about 80 cm! The column itself is assembled elementarily. Two posts with a section of 7 x 7 cm are attached to the foundation with steel anchors at a distance of 7 cm from each other (special grooves in the anchors - the bends of the holders on both sides - provide a sufficient distance between the soil and the tree). Communications are laid between the racks and closed on both sides wood paneling. It remains to cover the "column" with a lid that protects from precipitation - and you're done, such a Russian!

materials

The material for the wooden column was 7 x 7 cm wooden blocks and a 22 cm wide x 20 mm thick pressure impregnated pine panel. For such material protective covering, in principle, is not required, but you need to be prepared for the fact that in a few years the tree will turn gray.

Probably not a single person will argue that one of the main factors ensuring a good pastime in the country, a minimum of labor and a rich harvest is the abundance of clean water that can be used when watering beds, flower beds, and fruit plants. Of course, if all the cultivated vegetation on your site is limited to a small flower bed with an area of ​​​​two square meters, or if heavy rains occur in the region at least once or twice a week, then you don’t have to puzzle over it - the plants will grow just fine anyway.

But if it rains much less frequently, and in summer the heat in the shade reaches +30 degrees and above, then you will have to seriously think about how to facilitate watering. After all, carrying water from the well in buckets to water three to four hundred square meters of potatoes, one hundred square meters of cucumbers, tomatoes and cabbage, and even an orchard, is too tiring. It is hardly possible to cope with such a task for a whole day of hard labor, uninterrupted labor.

That's why the best way to solve this problem is the summer water supply in the country. Yes, the installation will have to spend more than one day, as well as a certain amount. But as a result you get easy way water your entire garden in half an hour, and watering itself turns into a real pleasure. In addition, you can forget about the need to bring water into the house manually if there is no working water supply in the area of ​​\u200b\u200byour dacha.

One of the most important issues to consider before purchasing materials is the selection of suitable pipes. After all, pipes are one of the main components of the water supply system. And the modern market offers a fairly large selection. suitable materials. Of course, they have both certain advantages and disadvantages.

You need to know about them in order to make an objective choice, and not regret it in the future. So, you can make plumbing from several types of pipes.

metal pipes

Time-tested, not too expensive and reliable. Metal pipes without the slightest harm to themselves will survive shock, strong compression, falling and any other mechanical impact. At proper care metal plumbing will easily serve you for decades. Alas, metal pipes also have a number of disadvantages. First of all, they are quite heavy, which complicates the process of transportation and installation. In addition, the metal is susceptible to corrosion.

Yes, this problem can be solved for 3-5 years if the pipes are coated with high-quality metal paint. But if you decide to install a permanent pipeline (by laying the pipes underground), you don't want to dig up the pipes every few years to paint them.

And, finally, after a few years, even with the most careful care, the inner wall will rust. This will significantly worsen the drinking quality of water - it is possible that it will even cease to be drinkable. An additional complication is the connection of pipes to the water supply. We have to use gas welding, which increases the cost of installation, as in most cases it forces us to invite specialists.

Metal-plastic pipes

Metal-plastic pipes are quite complex structure. The first layer is plastic. There is an adhesive layer on top of it. Next - aluminum, which bears the main load. Aluminum is covered with another adhesive layer, which, in turn, is protected by a layer of plastic. This is really a good option. Pipes are light, durable, non-corrosive and can withstand quite a lot of pressure without harm to themselves.

But the complexity of manufacturing and the high cost of aluminum lead to the fact that the price for them is set quite high. Many people who are willing to spend tens of thousands of rubles to equip summer water supply in the country.

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Polypropylene pipes

In recent years, polypropylene pipes have become increasingly popular. They are light, not afraid of corrosion, quite cheap and easy to install. Thermal welding is much cheaper than gas welding. You can just buy a special building iron - in stores they are usually sold at a price of 2 to 4 thousand rubles. Yes, pipes can be damaged when strong blows or squeezing. But if you bury them in the ground, then nothing is guaranteed to harm them there. They do not rust, which means that in 10 years the same clean water will flow from them as at the time of installation.

As you can see, you can use a variety of pipes for summer plumbing. Which of them should be preferred? Decide for yourself!

Permanent or collapsible plumbing

When you have decided on the material, it's time to think about which plumbing will best meet your requirements - collapsible or permanent? As the name implies, the first can be collected in the spring, at the beginning holiday season, and dismantled in the fall, so as not to become easy prey for thieves in winter.

The permanent one is mounted once and for all. What are the advantages and disadvantages of both of these options?

Collapsible plumbing

Let's start with a collapsible plumbing.

Its advantages include the simplicity and speed of installation - no need to dig pipes into the ground, carrying out a considerable amount of land work.

If any pipe or seam is damaged, the leak will be immediately noticeable and fixing it will not cause you any extra trouble.

The main disadvantage is the need to collect and adjust the water supply every spring, and in the fall - to disassemble and take it to the city.

In addition, all summer the pipes will lie near the beds. You can easily trip over them or just step on them, causing serious damage. And, of course, if you leave the cottage for a week or two, the water supply may well be simply stolen.

Constant water supply

— is a completely different matter.

You will have to spend much more time on laying this water supply, but only once. You do not have to carry out collapsible work twice a season. Pipes are buried to a depth of 30 to 50 centimeters, and do not interfere with your walking on the beds. It all consists in the usual draining of water from the system so that it does not freeze and damage the pipes. Thieves certainly will not dig into the ground, carrying out a huge amount of work to steal several tens of meters of pipes.

There are relatively few downsides to this option.

For example, if a pipeline is damaged, it will be quite difficult to notice a leak, it will be quite difficult to find it and eliminate it - you will have to dig the entire trench. Also more important is correct styling pipes - all along they must go downhill so that no water remains in the system in winter. And the longer the pipe, the deeper the trench will have to be dug.

Plant Watering Options

It is equally important to choose the right irrigation principle. You can use two options - watering the beds with water drawn directly from a well or well, or watering the beds from a tank filled from the main water source.

direct watering

The first option is simple. You just need to open the necessary valves in the pipeline and start the pump. Passing through the beds, you will close some valves and open others as you water individual areas.

This system is simple and convenient. Alas, there is a serious minus here, which you must be aware of. Experienced summer residents it is not recommended to water the beds with ice water, which is usually supplied from wells and wells. This can slow down the growth of plants or even lead to their death.