Homemade potbelly stove with your own hands. How to make a potbelly stove for a garage: making a potbelly stove with your own hands correctly Do-it-yourself potbelly stove dimensions

Heating technical premises often becomes a real problem. Electricity is expensive, resulting in high heating costs. The best way out is to use alternative sources energy. This can be firewood, coal, anthracite and much more.

To burn solid fuel Ovens of various formats are used. One of them is a potbelly stove, characterized by extreme simplicity and low cost.

In this review we will talk:

About the features of potbelly stoves;
About the materials needed for their assembly;
ABOUT step by step assembly potbelly stoves.

Upgrading the potbelly stove will also be considered, which will help increase its efficiency. The article will be interesting - read and get acquainted.

What is a potbelly stove?

Potbelly stoves have been known among our compatriots for a very long time. They gained their popularity due to their extreme simplicity. A simple metal box with a door and a blower - and the simplest version of the stove is already ready. Considering the ingenuity of our people, this world has seen many different bourgeois women, delighting their owners with the coveted warmth. Let's see what you can assemble such a stove from:

You can make a potbelly stove not only from a used safe or a well-worn gas cylinder, but also by simply welding several sheets of durable metal together.

From an old gas cylinder - great option, all that remains is to find the cylinder itself (you will get a horizontal or vertical stove). Plump modifications are suitable here, as thin and tall oxygen cylinders too narrow;
From an old flask - someone probably has such a thing lying around in their garage or barn. There is already a door here, all that remains is to attach the chimney;
From an old barrel - homemade potbelly stoves are often made from them long burning, since the capacity of the barrels allows you to organize a large combustion chamber;
There is no point in throwing away the old safe, it will still serve.

Homemade potbelly stoves can also be made from sheet metal - for this you need to arm yourself with suitable tools.

The construction of a potbelly stove is extremely simple. Its basis is a certain capacious container, which plays the role of a combustion chamber. A pipe emerges from its upper or rear part, to which the chimney is attached. In the front part there are two doors (less often one) - fuel is loaded through the large one, and ash is removed through the small one. The internal space is divided by a metal grate through which air is supplied - through which the ash formed during the combustion of wood is removed.

The lower door simultaneously acts as a blower - by adjusting the degree of its opening, you regulate the intensity of the flame and the temperature in the room.

The dimensions of the potbelly stove can be very different, for example, 250x450x450 mm (WxDxH). A gas cylinder will make a larger and more efficient stove. The largest size will be a barrel stove - after all, the internal volume of 150-200 liters can accommodate a huge amount of firewood. You can make a unit of almost any size - you don’t even have to worry too much about strictly observing the dimensions indicated in the drawings.

Scope of application for potbelly stoves

These simple stoves are in great demand. For their work, they use firewood, coal, coke, wood waste and many other types of fuel, pleasing with their unpretentiousness and stable operation. Such a stove can be placed in the garage - it will take up minimal space, but will provide the room with pleasant warmth. If you have a large supply of firewood or access to a cheap source of solid fuel, feel free to build a long-burning potbelly stove.

Wood is the simplest, cheapest and most widely available type of fuel for stoves. However, its consumption leaves much to be desired.

A mini potbelly stove can be used to heat a barn or home utility room, which has no heating. Agree, doing something here in winter is not so comfortable - your teeth chatter and your muscles cramp. And with the stove, things immediately go smoothly - just have time to add firewood so as not to freeze.

Long-burning potbelly stoves are useful not only for the garage, but also for any other premises, including residential ones - these can be temporary buildings, cottages, poultry houses, premises for keeping livestock and much more. In general, the scope of their application is huge. They are most in demand in towns and villages where there is no gas, but residential and non-residential buildings need to be heated somehow.

Advantages and disadvantages

Let's see what's good about homemade potbelly stoves made by folk craftsmen:

Cheap - most materials can be found for free or you can pay mere pennies for them;
Omnivorous - in fact, any solid fuel can burn in a potbelly stove;
Simple design - if we look at the drawings, we will not find anything complicated in them;
Possibility of cooking - for this purpose, potbelly stoves are equipped with cooking holes with lids;
Easy to use - subject to availability good chimney, the potbelly stove will work properly and will not cause smoke in the entire room.

Unfortunately, heating with a potbelly stove also has its disadvantages:

Low efficiency of the stove - without proper modernization, most of the heat will fly into the chimney;
Not the most respectable appearance - although some craftsmen make real works of art out of potbelly stoves;
High body temperature can cause burns;
High fuel consumption - in order for the stove to retain heat for a long time, without requiring the burning of tons of wood, you will have to resort to tricks.

Despite some shortcomings, simple potbelly stoves wood burning stoves are still in demand among those who need heat in the absence of a gas main.

How to make a potbelly stove with your own hands

You can make a potbelly stove with your own hands surprisingly quickly. First you need to decide what material it will be made of. Prepare the following tools:

A home-made potbelly stove can have the most intricate and elaborate appearance. Show your imagination and you can get a unique thing, which cannot be found anywhere else in the world.

Grinder (angle grinder);
Welding machine;
Sandpaper and file for processing metal edges;
Tape measure for measuring sizes;
A powerful drill and suitable drill bits.

Let's see how to cook a potbelly stove with good heat transfer for a summer house or garage from an iron barrel.

Do-it-yourself potbelly stove from a barrel

The simplest option is a potbelly stove made from a large-volume barrel (150-200 liters). It needs to be supplemented with grates, doors and a chimney. We begin the manufacture of the stove by constructing a reliable non-combustible base. The best option is to lay out a small brickwork on which the barrel itself will stand. It will take several days to make it. After this, we proceed to further work.

In the front wall of our potbelly stove, you should cut a rectangular hole for the loading door - use a metal jigsaw for this. The resulting piece of metal will act as our door - we attach a rotating lock, handle and hinges to it. After this, we weld the second part of the loops to the barrel. We weld on the opposite side metal loop, into which the constipation will fit.

At the bottom you need to make an ash pan with another door. We allocate 10-15% of the total volume for it. We make the door using the method described above, but it should be narrower - the ash is raked out through it, and it also serves as an ash pit. Optimal height– 40-50 mm. Next, we proceed to the manufacture of grates:

Cut off the top lid of the barrel;
We make a grate from sections of metal pipes (you should get a circle with long slots);
We weld the grate on the inside of the barrel, between the loading door and the ash pan door.

An old can or flask is also a great option. Using it, you free yourself from the need to weld the loading door.

We make a hole in the lid with a diameter of 100 mm, weld a small piece of pipe of the same diameter here - this will be the chimney hole. Next, weld the lid in place. Our potbelly stove is ready, all that remains is to attach a chimney to it and we can start testing - load the wood and try to light the flame.

We have made a long-burning potbelly stove with our own hands - it has an extremely large combustion chamber. Please note that you can make a cooking hole in the top lid - its diameter is 100-150 mm. Instead of a barrel, you can easily use a gas cylinder or a piece of pipe of a suitable diameter. Remember that a potbelly stove made from a pipe and a cylinder must have sufficient large diameter(at least 350-400 mm).

If necessary, you can make a similar potbelly stove in a horizontal design - you just need to slightly change its design. Otherwise, the assembly principle does not change.

The most efficient stove is a pyrolysis stove, which burns the remaining flammable gases and releases a large number of heat compared to other ovens. There is no need to think that this will be a complex unit. Making a potbelly stove of this type will take you about 20 minutes longer than a conventional unit without pyrolysis. Let's see how it is produced.

A unit welded from sheet metal with a thickness of 3 to 5 mm. Using thin iron does not make much sense - the stove will be too thin, the heat will bend it, and in the end it will be destroyed by corrosion. So find steel thick enough so that you don't have to make a new furnace every heating season.

We need to cut out seven pieces of metal (our iron thickness is 3 mm):

The main advantage of using sheet metal is that you can make a potbelly stove of any size and volume.

Two pieces measuring 450x450 mm are the side walls;
Four pieces measuring 450x250 mm are the front, rear, top and bottom walls;
One piece measuring 440x240 mm will be the grate;
Two pieces measuring 244x350 mm will be the internal partitions.

Thus, we will get a Loginov furnace, which has two internal partitions to increase efficiency. These same partitions will be responsible for pyrolysis.

We make two doors in the front wall - in accordance with the instructions described above. Next, we weld all the pieces into a metal box without a top lid. The next stage is making the grate. To do this, we take a metal sheet and make many holes in it with a diameter of 10-15 mm. We fix the grate at a height of 80 mm from the bottom of the stove. Next, we weld the partitions, placing them at a height of 60 and 120 mm from the top cover.

We make a couple of small holes on the back surface and weld thin metal tubes (10-15 mm in diameter) into them. They should be located above the lower partition, extending to the front wall. Their length is about 150 mm - secondary air will be sucked through them. The tubes are welded before securing the second partition.

We prepare the top cover - we cut a hole in it with a diameter of 100 mm for the chimney. If necessary, we supplement the wood-burning stove with a cooking hole. We weld the lid to our stove - everything is ready! Now we install the stove in its regular place and begin testing. And yes, don’t forget to attach legs to it or install it on a non-combustible base (for example, made of brick).

The height of the chimney for potbelly stoves is at least one meter. Optimal indicator– 1.5-2 meters from the horizontal outlet or top cover.

Modernization of potbelly stoves

Now you know how to properly make a potbelly stove so that it can be used to heat a country house, garage or utility room. But we need the furnace to be efficient - to provide maximum energy while burning a minimum of fuel. You will be surprised, but one possible variant We have already considered modernization - the pyrolysis unit presented above is an improved version. Take out the partitions from there, and you will get the most banal stove-stove.

The choice of chimney pipes should be approached with special attention - pipes that are too thin or poorly welded will quickly burn out, which will lead to smoke in the room.

Not only pyrolysis will help increase the efficiency of the stove. If you look at the drawing of the potbelly stove given above (made of sheet metal), you will notice that the unit is covered on three sides with metal sheets. They are spaced 50 mm from the body and play a protective role. But that’s not all - a draft is formed in the internal space, a convection process occurs. Thanks to this, the efficiency of the potbelly stove increases.

The next stage of modernization is the creation of a chimney bend. The thing is that a gigantic amount of heat escapes through it into the atmosphere. By increasing the length of the chimney using horizontal section, we can use it to heat the room. The disadvantage of this approach is the deposition of soot on a horizontal area.

In few films about war you won’t see a potbelly stove with blazing wood, next to which soldiers are huddled and conferring about something.

A simple shape in the form of a barrel, a knee placed outside through a window and a couple of logs could quickly and efficiently heat even a large room. Why this design was called a potbelly stove remains in history, but even today this stove enjoys well-deserved popularity. Below we will tell you how to quickly make a potbelly stove with your own hands, show you the most effective models, and also see photos and videos of the most successful models ovens.

Advantages and disadvantages of using potbelly stoves

By analogy with any other heating devices, potbelly stoves also have certain pros and cons in their operation.

Among the positive properties, the following can be noted:

use of an unlimited range of solid fuels - firewood, sawdust, coal, wood chips, briquettes, pellets, peat, etc. In some cases, even recycled motor oil is used as fuel;
the ability to make a potbelly stove with your own hands (see drawings below) practically from scrap materials;
compact size of the oven, which allows it to be placed even in a small room;
there is no need to install a chimney, foundation and platform.

Negative characteristics include:

the need to protect against combustion objects falling out of the firebox - embers, sparks, etc.;
strong and rapid heating of the oven walls, which increases the risk of injury to others;
high fuel consumption - it is rational to use such a stove only for short-term heating.

Types of furnace designs

Structurally, a potbelly stove is a rectangular or oval container equipped with a firebox with a door, an ash pan and an elbow for removing smoke (similar to a chimney).

Preferred material - stainless steel or cast iron. Cast iron accepts any type of fuel, but is fragile - sudden cooling of the potbelly stove body is prohibited.

On an industrial scale, potbelly stoves are divided into the following categories:

oven with hob;
pyrolysis;
equipped with a heat transfer-increasing casing.

The main feature of a potbelly stove is that in most cases it is made in a handicraft way, using metal boxes, cans and other suitable containers. Next, we will tell and show how to make potbelly stoves with your own hands - drawings, photos, videos

Furnaces differ from each other in the following categories:

manufacturing material - cast iron, steel, brick;
functionality - with a hob, heaters and gas generators;
type of fuel - solid and liquid.

Classic oven

A stove made of metal sheet is a traditional option that fully reveals the characteristics of a potbelly stove.

Manufacturing process

Necessary materials:

metal sheet 4 mm;
fittings with a diameter of 10-15 mm for the grate;
corners;
pipe (diameter according to the diagram);
Bulgarian;
welding.

Video 1 An example of making a beautiful potbelly stove with your own hands

Use a grinder to cut out all the body parts from a sheet of metal according to the drawing.

On the back and side walls, hot weld the corners, on which you will then lay the grate and another sheet (in the drawing), which will hold the bricks.

A properly made grate will help increase the burning time of firewood. If it is not a solid steel sheet, but a stacked grate made of reinforcement (up to 15 cm in diameter), the smoldering fuel itself will suck in the necessary air, making combustion more complete and lasting.

Next, cut out 2 doors (for the firebox and ash pan) and put them on the hinges. On the top part, cut a hole for the pipe, to which you weld a sleeve 200 mm high. After this, you weld or put on a pipe to the sleeve, the bending angle of which is 450.

Technology itself effective potbelly stove was given by V. Loginov. The material used is a metal sheet, grate bars are reinforcement, hot welding is used to connect parts, and pneumatic scissors or a grinder are used for cutting.

To increase heat transfer, it is necessary to ensure a certain resistance coefficient of the chimney.

How to determine the diameter of a chimney pipe

Calculate the volume of the combustion chamber (liter) in relation to the pipe diameter (mm) in the ratio 1:2.7. For example, if the volume of the firebox is for furnace gas, resistance must be created. From thermal engineering calculations, the volume of the combustion chamber in liters should be 2.7 times smaller in digital terms than the pipe diameter in millimeters. For example, if the firebox volume is 70 liters, then the pipe diameter will be 182 mm.

Potbelly stove made from a milk can

The second most popular material for making a potbelly stove after metal sheet is a milk can. This is easily explained, since the airtight case is almost ready, and everything else can be done with your own hands literally within a couple of hours.

Manufacturing process

Punch through with a chisel or cut out a crescent-shaped slot under the neck. This future is blowing
At the bottom of the can, cut a hole for the pipe, where the sleeve will be inserted and the chimney pipe will be put on.
It is better to make the grate in such a potbelly stove serpentine or made of reinforcement, but it is necessary to carefully insert it into the can so that there is no need to cut additional holes.
The dimensions of the potbelly stove made from a can are in the drawing. The finished structure should be placed on legs or made of brick.

The longer the chimney, the less heat loss will be.

Potbelly stove from a gas cylinder

An excellent material is a gas cylinder, which also fully ensures the tightness of the structure and its safe use.

Materials and tools:

waste gas cylinder;
metal sheet 4 mm;
pipe (diameter see above);
fittings for a set of gratings;
corners;
combustion door;
Bulgarian
welding.

To begin, knock off the top rim with the tap and cut out a crescent-shaped hole for the blower on the bottom of the cylinder
Weld a pipe to the bottom of the cylinder where the sleeve will be inserted and the chimney pipe will be put on.
It is better to make the grate in such a potbelly stove made from fittings; in this case, there will be a natural intake of air and the fuel will burn almost completely.
The dimensions of the potbelly stove made from a cylinder are in the photo. The finished structure should be placed on legs or made of brick.

Video 2 An example of making a potbelly stove from a gas cylinder at home

The potbelly stove has survived the most different times and has proven that it is the most reliable and in a simple way heating small rooms. Despite the relative simplicity of the design, during its manufacture it is necessary to observe certain proportions in order to increase the burning time of the filling and, accordingly, the efficiency of the furnace.

Photos of the most effective potbelly stoves according to readers

Photo 11 Bubafonya type stove

Photo 12 Potbelly stove that works

A potbelly stove is a simple but very effective stove that can be used for heating country houses, garages, various buildings under construction and other places. Is an excellent temporary alternative to full-fledged heating system. To make a potbelly stove you can use various materials and improvised means.

Work on self-production potbelly stove begins with choosing the type of construction. The stove can have a round or rectangular cross-section. Even an old can for water, milk and other liquids is suitable for assembling such a unit.

No expensive materials or hard-to-find tools are required. Everything you need can be found in the shed or purchased at a hardware store.

Tools and materials for assembling a potbelly stove

Can.
Metal rod with a diameter of 0.6 mm.
Hammer.
Chisel.
Smoke exhaust pipe.
File.

To assemble some models of potbelly stove, you will need a welding machine, but if you really want, everything can be done without welding. Advantage of using welding machine is that with its help it is possible to ensure higher reliability and rigidity of the structure. Recommendations for any specific sizes are not given, because... in the case of homemade potbelly stoves, everything is selected individually. When choosing the sizes of additional units, be guided by the dimensions of the main container.

First of all, you need to prepare the blower. Take your can and make a hole in it. It should be arranged just below the level of the neck. The cut hole should be shaped into a regular rectangle. To do this, take a file and carefully sand the edges of the resulting connector.

The next hole must be prepared in the bottom of the can. It must be of such a diameter that in the future the pipe for removing combustion products enters it with sufficiently great effort. Determining the appropriate size is extremely simple. Prepare markings in the area where the chimney is installed. Mark a hole approximately 15-20 mm smaller than the diameter of the chimney pipe. Next, you will need to arm yourself with a chisel and an ordinary hammer. With these simple tools you can knock out the hole you need. In the end, all that remains is to level it with a file.

Take the chimney pipe and try to fit it into the prepared connector. If the chimney does not go through, you will have to work with the file for some time. However, there is no need to be too zealous either. The chimney, as already noted, must fit into the connector with sufficiently great effort.

Take a metal rod with a diameter of 0.6 mm and try to bend it like a snake. In the future you will use this snake as a grate. The prepared lattice must be bent so that it can be positioned normally in the neck. At the end, all that remains is to align the grate in the container, and the homemade stove will be ready.

Experts recommend installing such stoves on special stands. This is more reliable and safe. Additionally, the design of a homemade potbelly stove can be improved by installing a damper on the ash pan. It will allow you to regulate the intensity of traction, fuel consumption and heating level.

Thus, a basic potbelly stove can be assembled even from an old can. No expensive special equipment is required for this work. Finally, all that remains is to place the oven in suitable place and connect the chimney pipe. Homemade stove will provide high-quality heating of the room until you decide to install a more functional and productive system.

In this case, you cannot do without a welding machine. The function of the basis of the structure will be performed by a segment of ordinary metal pipe. It will even do old barrel. Assembly will be carried out according to the scheme already familiar to you. Make a grate from the rods and fasten it to the body. The connection is made by welding . This potbelly stove will have 2 dampers at once: a blower and a firebox. The model can be successfully used both for heating various rooms and for preparing a variety of food.

Potbelly stoves are valued precisely because they are able to warm up a room in the shortest possible time. But at the same time there arises the main disadvantage of such stoves is that after combustion stops they cool down as quickly as they heat up. Metal practically does not accumulate heat.

To eliminate the above drawback, it is enough to cover a homemade potbelly stove with refractory bricks. It accumulates heat well and continues to release it to the surrounding area for a long time after the stove has stopped operating. However, in order for the room to warm up, the stove will have to be heated longer than without such a brick fence. But this drawback can be easily eliminated. It is enough just to make a few in a brick screen ventilation holes. Such systems are quite often used in baths.

The brick screen is laid out at some distance from the walls of the unit. This is very important point. When choosing a suitable distance, you should focus on the area of the heated room and the dimensions of the stove itself.

A potbelly stove, fenced with a brick screen, will use fuel as efficiently as possible and efficiently heat the room for a very long time.

The brick screen in question, as already noted, eliminates the furnace from its main drawback, which is extremely rapid cooling. You turn off the stove, but it will continue to provide heat. However, the design of such a screen must take into account a number of important rules and requirements.

Typically, the laying is done at a distance of about 15 cm from the body of the heating unit. Ventilation holes are created at the bottom and top of the brick screen, thanks to which air can circulate inside the structure. Eventually it will be organized efficient heating with the most rational fuel consumption. Warm air will be able to go into the heated room, and the cold one entering its place will cool the stove body, protecting its walls from excessive heating and burnout.

In some situations, the masonry is done without a gap between the stove body and the screen, or the brick is laid in a checkerboard pattern. This is a completely wrong approach; it is better not to consider it at all. If there is no gap, the heating efficiency will noticeably decrease. Excess heat will simply evaporate into the chimney. The disadvantage of “checkerboard” masonry is that in such conditions the air does not have the opportunity to circulate normally.

The total screen area is much smaller than in the case of solid masonry, which is why the oven will cool down very quickly. The total heat loss will be about 50%. The room, of course, will warm up quickly, but it will also cool down just as quickly. And in this case, is there any point in arranging such a screen at all?

If you are very limited in money, you can not buy a new brick, but make a screen from broken and used products. This is not a fundamental point. But if the potbelly stove will be used as a constant source of heat, it is better to allocate money and do everything conscientiously.

Improved model of potbelly stove

Do-it-yourself potbelly stove - professionally drawn up diagram

If desired, you can slightly improve the design of the potbelly stove and obtain a more productive and efficient heating unit. To do this, you just need to prepare a certain amount of sheet metal or several boxes from the same material. As a result, you will get a rectangular stove with a more aesthetic appearance.

The design must include smoke vents. They will significantly reduce the cost of heating materials. It is also recommended to install control dampers. Thanks to them, you can change traction and control fuel consumption as much as possible.

The assembly of the structure is carried out in the same order as in the previous instructions. The only differences are in the shape of the body. Otherwise, the structure is assembled, equipped and used in a similar manner.

Thus, this unit received its historical name completely undeservedly. With proper assembly, no excessive fuel consumption is observed. Such a simple but very effective stove began to be called a “potbelly stove” simply because of an erroneous interpretation. However, in order for the unit to fully realize its potential, you need to choose the right place for its installation and adhere to certain recommendations during operation.

Recommendations for placing and using a homemade stove

The installation and use of the oven must be carried out in accordance with the technology established and tested by many users. If the potbelly stove will be installed in wooden house, the minimum permissible distance between it and the nearest walls will be 100 cm. Safety precautions require the installation of a smoke exhaust pipe. Sections cannot be extended; the pipe must be continuous and integral.

In certain situations, it is impossible to solve the problem of smoke removal without extending pipes. Craftsmen found a completely safe and effective solution this problem. The main thing is that the sections fit together as tightly as possible. The lower part is inserted into the above section, and nothing else.

If the pipe goes outside through a wall, the point of contact between the objects must be equipped with a thermal barrier. Typically, brick is used for its arrangement. You should refrain from using concrete because... it loses its strength with temperature changes.

If the pipe goes outside through a wall, the place where the objects come into contact must be equipped with a thermal barrier

If desired, the potbelly stove can be further refined using a variety of accessories, for example, devices for convenient storage fuel. In accordance with safety precautions, fuel must also be stored away from the stove body. This distance must be at least 1 m.

A properly assembled potbelly stove can heat a room in just 15-20 minutes. If desired, it can be decorated and turned into a wonderful addition to the interior of the room, making it a full-fledged constant source of heat. Follow the recommendations received and everything will work out.

Good luck!

Video - Do-it-yourself potbelly stove

Often homeowners prefer to assemble simple and useful homemade products from improvised and unnecessary materials, instead of buying ready-made. And a potbelly stove is one of these useful devices.

The main feature of a potbelly stove is that it heats up as quickly as it cools down. Therefore, the scope of its use is narrowed mainly to those rooms where it is necessary to provide rapid heating, while the appearance of the device is often completely unimportant for the user.

You can make a potbelly stove with your own hands, and, if desired, modernize it to achieve more efficient heat transfer.

Are you also thinking about assembling such a homemade product and don’t know where to start? We will help you complete the task - the article discusses the assembly procedure various options homemade stoves, drawings and diagrams are provided.

Also discussed in detail are ways to improve a homemade potbelly stove, as a result of which the efficiency of the stove will become noticeably higher.

The choice of furnace design depends on what material is used as fuel. Each user himself determines the degree of its availability and economic feasibility.

Exactly flammable material, which has different temperatures and the nature of combustion dictates the principles for creating various modifications of the device.

The shape of a potbelly stove can be different, often depending on the availability of suitable material. This could be an old can, a gas cylinder, a metal container - whatever is at hand. The main thing when choosing it is the thickness of the metal and the shape, which requires a minimum of alterations.

Image gallery

A grate made of grate (it can be welded from reinforcement) is placed at the bottom of the chamber, under which ash will accumulate. You can also arrange hob. It is easier to do this on a horizontally located cylinder by welding corners on it on both sides.

It’s good if the barrel initially has legs. If not, you need to weld them or install the stove on bricks.

A potbelly stove made from a gas cylinder can also be used as a basis for the further construction of a hot water column, as it is also called “Titan”. To do this, install on top of the stove stainless steel container, through which the chimney pipe passes.

The water in a wood-burning boiler heats up quickly, and little firewood is used - in the summer, one load into a small firebox is enough.

A metal container with walls at least 3 mm thick is also suitable for a potbelly stove. The open top of the container is closed with a circle of metal sheet and brewed.

A hole is cut out in the lid or wall for the chimney. Its diameter should be at least 100-150 mm. The top of such a potbelly stove will heat up so much that you can cook food and heat water on it.

We also have more on our website detailed instructions with diagrams and drawings for manufacturing.

Features of a sawdust stove

If there is no shortage of sawdust on the farm, then this type of fuel will fully justify its use. Such a potbelly stove does not require frequent loading - the compacted sawdust inside does not burn, it slowly smolders, releasing thermal energy gradually and providing heat for a long time.

A self-made sawdust stove operates on the principle of long-term combustion. The slow combustion process saves resources - heat does not immediately fly out into the chimney, heating the atmosphere

The basis of the furnace can be metal barrel with an open top (if the container is sealed, then the top is cut off) or a pipe with a diameter of 300 to 600 mm.

Then a metal circle is cut out of a sheet three or more millimeters thick, which should be smaller than the inner diameter of the barrel. In its middle, a hole with a diameter of 100 mm is cut under a cone for compacting sawdust.

The workpiece is welded to the walls of the barrel. Using this circle, the ash pit is fenced off - in it, with the help of shavings or wood chips, ignition will be carried out. The height of the ash pan should be 100-200 mm.

Below the welded circle, a window is cut out, which will serve as a blower. Curtains are welded to the cut piece of metal, making a door for the same hole.

An exit to the chimney is made in the lid of the container. The lid must fit tightly onto the potbelly stove and be made of a fairly thick sheet, otherwise it will quickly burn out.

In order for sawdust to burn gradually, it is necessary to ensure a limited supply of oxygen to the fuel compartment. To do this, a cone-shaped core is inserted inside the firebox, sawdust is poured around it and compacted. The cone is carefully removed, turning, and the lid is put on the barrel.

The same model can be improved by adding an additional cylinder. In this option, the sawdust will be in the inner chamber, and the space between the two compartments will serve to burn gases and increase the heating area. In this option, the outlet of smoky gases is arranged in the lower part of the stove.

How can you improve your potbelly stove?

An ordinary potbelly stove has a mass positive qualities, but also has many significant disadvantages. It is unable to accumulate heat and heats the room while the fire is burning. Requires continuous fuel supply, on average every 30-40 minutes.

In addition, a large amount of heat escapes through the chimney into the atmosphere, bringing no benefit. That is why work on improving the potbelly stove is ongoing.

The standard design of a potbelly stove has many modernized designs that allow:

save fuel;
increase the efficiency of the stove;
increase heat capacity;
reduce the frequency of fuel filling.

The most common methods for increasing the efficiency of a potbelly stove are creating a slow burning mode, a gas afterburning system, and installing heat-resistant lining of the internal walls.

You can also improve the quality performance of the stove by increasing the heat transfer area using welded pipes and an installed fan that will drive air flows through them.

The industrial model of such a potbelly stove is called “Buleryan”, but besides it, there are many more various designs made in a handicraft way. We recommend watching detailed master class By homemade production.

You can increase the heat transfer time if you line the stove with brickwork. Such a potbelly stove will heat up more slowly, but will also give off heat longer, maintaining the temperature in the room for some time after the fire has died down.

Are you interested brickwork? We have it on our website detailed guide do it yourself with diagrams and drawings.

Option #1 – stove with increased fuel load

This model is designed to increase efficiency and continuous burning time. The basis is taken as a horizontal rectangular potbelly stove on massive, stable legs and complemented with a cassette made of a blind sealed cylinder. Such design additions significantly increase its efficiency.

A flange is welded to a cassette cylinder about 400 mm high. After installing the cylinder into the burner hole, its edge should fall 5-10 mm below the stove plate. To make it easy to install and remove the cylinder, handles are welded to its body.

The cylinder is filled with firewood in such a way that there is some space between them and when installing it on the stove, they can immediately fall onto the burning coals

How does a potbelly stove work:

The lower part of the firewood, falling on the coals of the preparatory ignition, flares up. In this case, the upper part, located in the cassette, will not burn due to lack of oxygen, but will dry under the influence of hot smoke.
Under the weight of its own mass and as it burns, the firewood gradually falls into the firebox.
The hot gas, which is in the cylinder for some time, gives off heat to it, thereby increasing the heat transfer area in the room. In this case, the cylinder cover can serve as a cooking surface.
At the same time, the temperature of the exhaust smoke decreases, which means the heat capacity and efficiency of the potbelly stove increases.

As a result of this modernization, the time interval between laying firewood increases and the efficiency of using the stove increases.

Option #2 – long-burning potbelly stove “Bubafonya”

The low efficiency of a conventional potbelly stove is a fact that has long been known and verified by many users.

One of the methods to increase it is to slow down the combustion process by limiting the flow of air into the combustion chamber. This improvement can be found in such stoves as “Bubafonya” and “Filipina”.

This model of potbelly stove is used in non-residential premises - workshops, greenhouses, and other outbuildings. To work for 9-12 hours, one stack of small firewood, chips, and sawdust is enough. In this model heating device Do not use coarsely chopped or damp firewood.

A potbelly stove can be created from any metal tank. Most often they use a barrel of fuel and lubricants or an old cylinder.

Manufacturing is carried out in the following sequence:

A combustion chamber is prepared from an accessible cylindrical container, in the upper part of which a hole is cut for the chimney.
A circle is cut out of metal (at least 10 mm thick), slightly smaller than the inner diameter of the barrel.
A hole with a diameter of 100-150 mm is made in the center of the circle (the exact size depends on the diameter of the rod pipe used).
Ribs up to 50 mm high are welded onto one of the planes of the circle.
A pipe is welded to the center of the circle. Its length is calculated so that the piston, when lowered, rises above the reservoir lid by approximately 100 mm. If you leave the pipe longer than necessary, draft will arise in it and it will begin to smoke.
Next, they build a lid that will fit tightly on the barrel and cut a hole in it that fits the piston pipe

You can further increase the efficiency of this model by organizing the supply of air from the street into the firebox. Thus, heated air from the room will not fly out into the chimney.

Option #3 – furnace with secondary combustion “Filipina”

The furnace uses two methods to increase its efficiency, based on the principles of long-term combustion and pyrolysis. To make it, you will need two gas cylinders, which will serve as chambers for primary and secondary combustion.

The sequence of actions for making a potbelly stove is as follows:

The cylinders are prepared for use by releasing the remaining gas from them and filling them with water. Without this procedure, it is absolutely impossible to cut them, otherwise the sparks that are formed during the operation of the angle grinder can provoke a gas explosion, a certain amount of which always remains in the cylinder.
In the first cylinder, which will serve as a chamber for the firebox and ash pan, remove the tap and cut off the top (it is used to make the door), and cut out a hole for installing a chimney.
Opposite the hole for the chimney, a pipe is welded, the other end of which should not rest against the lid of the second chamber, leaving free space for smoke to escape.
At the outlet of the pipe from the first cylinder, a metal ring is welded; it will serve as a support for installing the upper cylinder. Holes are drilled in it.
A metal ring is also welded to the second cylinder where the top is cut, in which the locations for the holes are marked, focusing on the holes already made in the first ring.
Before finally installing the second cylinder, an air supply pipe is inserted into it.
Place the upper chamber on the pipe, aligning the holes, wind a heat-resistant rope between the rings, and secure the connection with screws.
The chimney exit is made from the bottom of the secondary combustion chamber.

To obtain a stable structure, reliable legs are welded to the lower chamber. Install the door on the awnings. It can be further improved by adding the ability to regulate the air entering the firebox.

And in a private country house, and own garage or a workshop, it’s always a good idea to have a mobile or stationary stove-stove. Today there are many on sale different models these heating devices, but they can be expensive. Therefore, if you have experience working with metal, suitable material And necessary tools, stoves are often made independently.

Which model of wood stove to choose with your own hands is up to the master to decide, since these homemade devices may have the most different kind and be made both from new material and from improvised metal objects.

Craftsmen have learned to adapt metal barrels with walls 2.5-3 mm thick, gas or oxygen cylinders, medium-diameter pipes, metal sheets and even rims from large automobile wheels to make potbelly stoves.

Tools for making a potbelly stove

To work with metal you will need special tools, some of them are available in almost every private home, while others will have to be purchased or rented.

Angle grinding machine - “grinder” and consumables in the form of cutting discs and grinding wheels.
A welding machine with a power of 200 A, and also consumables - electrodes Ø 3 and 4 mm. In addition, you will definitely need a special mask and protective suit.
Metal brush.
Slag hammer.
Measuring tools - folding meter, long metal ruler, tape measure, chalk or marker.
Pliers, hammer, chisel.
Drill with metal drills of various diameters.

The choice of stove model most often depends on where it is planned to be located, since residential premises require a more aesthetic appearance of the heating device and increased safety. Therefore, for installation in a house, the best option is one made from metal sheets or a piece of medium-diameter pipe.

Any of them will do existing models, but it is better to choose one that will help not only bring warmth into the room, but also warm the water.

To finally make your choice, it is worth considering different variants and get acquainted with the process of their production.

Gas cylinder stove

Installation of a potbelly stove from a cylinder can take place in different ways:

Using one cylinder with a vertical or horizontal arrangement;
Using two cylinders that are installed perpendicular to each other.

The second model will provide more heat, since the heating area of the oven is almost twice as large.

The cylinder itself has a neat appearance, you can make a hob on it, and if you give the finished stove a decent appearance, it can even be installed in a residential area.

Materials for production

For the manufacture of the first model will need one cylinder, for the second, respectively, two, but besides this for the manufacture of the oven will need:

A steel sheet with a thickness of at least 3 mm - the jumper between the firebox and the ash pan will be made from it, as well as hob.
If you want the stove to look more respectable, then you need to purchase a ready-made cast iron door with a cast pattern for the firebox and ash pan.
If appearance is not so important, then the door can be made from a piece of metal cut from the cylinder itself or from a steel sheet.
Chimney pipe with a diameter of 90 — 100 mm.
Reinforcing rod with a diameter of 12 — 15 mm or steel angle for making a grate and legs. made of cast iron can also be purchased at a specialized store, or the bottom of a horizontally laid cylinder in which holes are drilled can serve as a grate.

Any of the models can be made not only from large cylinders, but also from small ones - this will depend on the space allocated for the stove.

Preparing the gas cylinder

Before starting work, the cylinder must be prepared, especially if the container is not new, but has already been in use. In this case, a certain concentration of gas may always remain inside the cylinder, and if a spark occurs during its cutting, an explosion is possible. Measures for appropriate preparation of the container cannot be neglected, since do work will be extremely dangerous.

Preparation is carried out in the following sequence:

First of all, unscrew the valve, which is located on top of the cylinder, and clear the hole in which it is installed. The container is left outside or in a utility room for about a day, filling it to the top with water.
After this time, the water from the cylinder is drained. It should be taken into account that the liquid will have bad smell, so you need to drain it away from your home.
A washed cylinder can be used for work, since the last remaining gas should be removed from it along with the water.

Making a vertical stove from a cylinder

The first step is to mark the prepared cylinder - the location of the firebox and ash pan is indicated on it. For this procedure you will need a marker and a flexible measuring tape - thanks to her a fairly rigid but elastic tape can be measured and drawn location door

The next step is to carefully cut out the marked parts using a grinder. The cut out fragments are almost always used for further work.

Cutting openings for the firebox doors and ash pan

These elements are boiled, adding sides, hinges and a handle-latch, and they make excellent doors.
Next, the internal diameter of the cylinder is measured, and according to this measurement, a ring is rolled up from thick wire, which will become the basis for welding the fittings. Thus, a grate for the firebox is made.
Then, the level of installation of the grate is outlined. The grate should be located 30 ÷ 50 mm below the edge of the cut opening for the firebox door. The grate thus becomes a separator between the ash pit chamber and the firebox. Reinforcing bars are welded at a distance of 8 ÷ 10 mm from each other.

Hinges attached to the door are welded to one side of the firebox opening. It is very important to accurately align the installation location so that the doors close and open easily.

On the opposite side of the hinges, a loop-hook for the bolt, open at the top, is fixed. It should keep the door securely closed while the stove is heating.
The door on the ash pan is secured in the same way.
It is recommended to cut off the top part of the cylinder for welding on top of the round metal panel, which will act as a hob.
The chimney can be discharged either through the top of the cylinder or through the back or side wall of the stove. If you choose the second option, the upper hob will be much larger, since it will be freed from the chimney pipe.

If the cylinder stands vertically, it will take much less space than the horizontal option, but you also need to remember that any stove should be located at a distance of 200 mm from the wall, and the walls themselves must be covered with heat-resistant material.

Efficient potbelly stove made from two gas cylinders

To make such a potbelly stove you will need two cylinders, which, when heated, can heat the room much faster. In addition, if desired, it is quite possible to install a water heating tank in the vertical part of the furnace if you install a hermetically sealed container inside, bring the tap out and cut in pipes for supplying and extracting water.

The first step is to prepare the cylinder, which will stand horizontally. The top part is cut off from it so that it turns out round hole with a diameter approximately 30 - 35 mm smaller than the internal diameter of the cylinder.

In the bottom part of the future firebox, holes with a diameter of 10 - 12 mm are drilled in several lines, which in this case will serve as a kind of grate.

A metal box is welded under this “grid” - this will ash pan. Then you need to install a tightly closing door on it to prevent coals and ash from falling out. As an air regulator it is used will not be available in this model.
Legs made from corners or fittings are welded next to the ash pan.

On top of the horizontally located cylinder, on the side opposite the firebox door, a round hole is cut out onto which the vertical part of the stove will be installed.

A door is installed, which would best be made from the head of another cylinder. A hole is cut in the center into which a pipe with a diameter of about 76 mm is welded. This pipe is equipped with a valve, with which you can regulate the flow of air into the firebox, and therefore the intensity of firewood combustion. Door hinges It is recommended to place it on top - under the influence of its gravity, the lid will reliably close the combustion chamber window and minimize air suction.

The most difficult thing in preparing the upper, vertical part of the potbelly stove is the process of marking and cutting out a certain shape, which is ideal for putting on and welded to the horizontal body.

In this case, an additional heat exchange chamber is installed in the vertical part of the furnace, i.e. smoke entering this section does not immediately go down the chimney, but lingers in the chamber.

To do this, metal plates with holes are welded inside the vertical body at a certain distance, which can vary from 250 to 400 mm. The holes should be cut close to the edge of the metal round piece. When installing them, the hole on the first jumper should be located on the opposite side from from version on the second jumper and so on. The best option in this case, there will be the installation of three similar jumpers, located equidistant from each other.
The vertical unit with the partitions already mounted is installed and welded on top to the horizontally mounted housing. A connection pipe is welded onto the top cylinder.

Video: potbelly stove from two gas cylinders

Potbelly stove from a cylinder installed horizontally

This version of the potbelly stove is made from one cylinder, and the operating technology is in many ways similar to the option described above. Therefore, it is only worth considering the difference between some elements.

Instead of a vertical assembly, only a pipe for connecting the chimney pipe is welded into the rear upper part of the cylinder.

A rectangular hole is cut out for the combustion door - it can be adjusted in size to the finished one cast iron door. If it is purchased in a store, then you should pay attention to the doors designed for blower holes brick kilns- sometimes they are ideal for a potbelly stove from a cylinder.

You can make a door and from a balloon cut out rectangular part. The size of the sides will fit well into the resulting hole, but in the middle there will be a hole from the valve. It will need to be welded with a patch cut from a metal sheet.
In both the previous and this version, a hob can be added. For this, for example, from a steel bar, 5 — 8 mm, a rectangle is bent, which is welded onto the container, creating a small but fairly flat surface.
Instead of wire, you can use two steel strips, welded on both sides of the cylinder along its entire length.

Potbelly stove from a barrel

A potbelly stove made from a barrel is more voluminous and takes up much more space than a stove made from a cylinder. That is why it is able to heat a room with a larger area. Such a stove can also be horizontal or vertical, but both the first and second options are used for heating not only utility and technical premises, but also housing.

To make this potbelly stove, you will need a metal barrel, a steel sheet and a chimney pipe with a diameter of 100-150 mm.

Vertical stove

The barrel is measured and marked on its surface location the vent and firebox doors, as well as the location of the cut. It should extend below the edge of the firebox by 30 ÷ 50mm.
Then the barrel is cut into two parts, and each of them is initially worked on separately.
A round plate is cut out of a steel sheet, equal in diameter to the size of the barrel. It provides a hole for the passage of the chimney pipe.
A hole is also cut in the top of the barrel so that it can be aligned with the hole on the round piece that will become the hob.
The chimney pipe is welded into the hole in the barrel, and then from above, through the hole onto the pipe, a hob is threaded and laid, which is welded to the sides of the barrel. The air space created between them, which is the height of the side, will help to more long term keep the hob hot.
Next, a round metal part with holes cut in it is also welded to the lower side of the upper part - the grate. Another option is to weld two semicircular brackets under the finished cast iron grate. The photo clearly shows how these elements look and are located.
When the bottom and top panel of this part of the stove are ready, you can use the previously made markings to cut a hole for the firebox door.
The cut out part is scalded around with metal strips, hinges and a handle with a vertical latch are attached to the door.
Next, the hinges for the door and the hook for the latch are welded to the body. This process must be carried out very carefully, accurately calculating the distances for installation, since the door should open and close easily, and the latch should fit freely into the holder arranged with a hook.
An opening is cut in the lower part of the barrel for the ash pan. The door is prepared and hung - the same as in the case of the combustion chamber.
After this, both parts are connected into a single structure by a weld.

Horizontal potbelly stove from a barrel

The process of making a horizontal version of a potbelly stove from a barrel is carried out in almost the same way as from a cylinder.

In the upper plane, a window is marked and cut out on which a door made from a cut piece of metal will be installed. Connections between the door and the hinges and the hinges and the body are made using rivets.

The standard pressure release hole in the barrel, 20 mm in diameter, is used as a blower. There is no separate door for the ash pan is provided.
It is recommended to immediately make a stand to place the future stove. It is made from scraps of pipes or corners, so that the shelves ensure the stability of the barrel laid on them, without play.

The next stage is the manufacture of a grate from a metal sheet 3-4 mm thick. First, the area is measured and, based on the data obtained, it is cut out. the right size panel in which holes are drilled for air supply. The finished grate is placed on the bottom of the barrel in such a way that at the highest point, in the center, the distance between the grate and inner surface barrels was about 70 mm. The grate is not fixed rigidly - it should be easily removed to clean the stove from accumulated ash.

For the chimney pipe, a special connecting unit is made in the rear upper part. After marking for the required diameter, a grinder cuts diametrical slots at an angle of 15º from one another - a total of 12 cuts will be obtained. The resulting “teeth” are bent upward - the chimney pipe, which is then inserted, will be attached to them using rivets.

Video: the simplest horizontal potbelly stove made from a barrel

Potbelly stove made from wheel rims

A potbelly stove can also be made from two disks from large wheels and a piece of pipe large diameter— it must be selected to match the diameter of the prepared disks. The height of the cut may vary depending on the preference of the master and the stability of the structure, but is usually limited to 300 - 450 mm.

There is nothing complicated in the design and manufacturing process of this version of the potbelly stove, but it is more suitable for technical and utility rooms than for residential ones.

Getting ready individual elements for the future stove - two disks, a piece of pipe, a metal sheet and a pipe for the chimney.
All three parts are welded together into a single vertical structure. To make it easier to adjust the diameter of the pipe to the discs, it is permissible to cut off the outermost rib from the latter along the circumference, on one side.

Next, an opening for the firebox is marked on the pipe and cut out with a grinder.
The cut out part is scalded around the perimeter, a valve and hinges are installed on it, thereby obtaining the necessary door.
Then, you need to make a hole for the ash pan, otherwise the fire in the stove simply won’t burn. To do this, a window measuring 100-120 mm in width and height is cut out in the lower disk.

A hole for the chimney is cut from the back of the upper disk and a pipe is welded there.
It is recommended to make a hob for the upper disk from a steel sheet 4 mm thick — 5 mm. It is tightly welded to the edge of the upper disk, thus becoming an additional heat exchanger.
The same is done with the bottom of the stove in order to create a full-fledged ash pit and increase the safety of operation of the potbelly stove.

In fact, such a potbelly stove is more like a fire fenced with metal, and is neither economical nor easy to use. However, for garage needs and provided the source materials are free, this is a completely acceptable option.

Video: an example of an effective potbelly stove made from wheel rims

Potbelly stove "Gnome"

One of the most popular of all homemade potbelly stoves is compact. It looks neat and can be installed in any room. This potbelly stove is a good size for small country houses, since it does not take up much space and is an indispensable assistant in cooking and heating rooms.

One of the most common models is the “Gnome” potbelly stove.

A similar model of potbelly stove can be equipped with internal partitions - plates, then it will receive the properties of additional heat transfer, or you can make the most ordinary body with a division into a firebox and an ash pan.

The first version of the stove will retain heat in the room for a long time, and this is very important if summer residents live outside the city from early spring to late autumn, when the nights are cold.

In order to make such a potbelly stove, you need to purchase a steel sheet with a thickness of 3 — 4 mm, chimney pipe, corner 40 × 40 or 50 × 50 mm. You can make a lid for the burner yourself or buy it ready-made.

Relying on drawing, on metal details are drawn on sheets potbelly stoves: panels all walls, a grate and two plates for securing them inside the structure.
Rectangular holes for the firebox and ash pan are cut out in the front panel. The cut pieces of metal are used to make doors. They are scalded with a corner and the latches and hinges are immediately attached to them. Then, the doors are attached to the front panel.
On the same panel, only on its inner side at a distance of 150 ÷ 160 mm from the top, one of the plates is welded, which will regulate the output of heated air. The plates must be 80 ÷ 100 mm shorter than the length of the side walls of the housing.
After that on back wall, at a distance of 70 — 80 mm from the top, the second plate is welded. Together, these two plates form a zigzag labyrinth for the smoke when the stove burns. Thanks to this, each corner of the potbelly stove body will warm up.
IN hob two holes are cut out - for the burner and for the chimney.
Legs made of thick reinforcement or angle are welded to the bottom wall of the body. You can choose the option of a frame from a corner, which includes legs and a base for attaching the bottom and lower ribs of the side panels to it.
Before welding the side parts to the frame or to the bottom panel, it is necessary to mark and weld corners on them along the entire length of the panel; they must be welded at the same level, since their role is to serve as brackets for laying the grate.
In the panel prepared for the grate, holes with a diameter of 12 ÷ 15 mm are drilled in a checkerboard pattern, at a distance of 30 ÷ 40 mm from each other. Another option for a grate can be a grate welded from reinforcing bars. The possibility of purchasing a ready-made cast iron grate should not be discounted.
Installation and welding of all walls of the potbelly stove are carried out. The main thing is to achieve complete tightness of the welds, so sometimes it becomes useful to install a 30 × 30 mm metal corner outside. This will make it a little heavier. general design, but will give it additional strength and reliability.
Welded top cover with chimney pipe and hob.
To make the stove look respectable, you need to clean all welding seams and cover its surface with heat-resistant paint.

It makes sense to additionally install a screen on the side and rear surfaces, which will increase the safety of the stove and create a powerful convection flow of hot air, significantly accelerating the heating of the room. The screen panels are mounted on racks so that they are spaced from the stove body at a distance of 30 to 50 mm.

Video: master class on making a potbelly stove from steel sheet

What to consider when installing a potbelly stove

A one made independently will bring warmth and comfort to a house or outbuildings, without causing problems, only if safety rules are followed during its installation.

The surface on which the stove is installed must be hard and fire-resistant. This could be, for example, brickwork or ceramic tiles. Can also be used asbestos sheet, which The top is covered with a metal sheet.
Heat-resistant plasterboard or asbestos sheets are installed on the walls around the stove. Wall cladding is also suitable ceramic tiles or brick.
It is prohibited to place flammable materials and compounds near the stove or near the firebox.
The chimney must also be insulated from combustible surfaces when passing through a wall or attic.
It is very important for safety to equip a reliable ventilation system so that carbon monoxide cannot accumulate in the room.
In order for the stove to work for a long time and efficiently, you need to choose only high-quality material for its manufacture.
Before installing the stove on its permanent place be sure to carry out street tests, paying attention Special attention on the quality of welds and the accuracy of fit of all parts.