According to current SNiP, installation of plumbing equipment (including a toilet) is carried out in compliance with certain rules, which guarantees a long service life. Many companies provide installation services, but you can carry out this operation yourself and save a decent amount.
Before we figure out how to attach a toilet to the floor, let’s get acquainted with their known types and find out their design features.
Toilets differ in the following characteristics:
- device of the tank and drain bowl, method of their articulation;
- direction of sewage flow (direct or lateral);
- the material from which the toilet is made;
- dimensions and total weight.
When considering the installation of toilets of this class, the main attention is paid to the first point (that is, design differences).
Reliable fastening of the toilet to the floor can be achieved if its design features are taken into account.
These plumbing samples come in two types:
- models with a tank that is mounted on the ledge of the bowl on the back side
(in this case, the water storage tank is adjacent directly to the toilet wall);
- monoblocks, in which the bowl and drain tank are made as one module, do not
having detachable parts.
The advantage of the combined version or monoblock is the ease of maintenance of the toilet, including its repair. To this should be added the relatively low noise level of the flushing procedure compared to a standard separate design.
The disadvantages of this class of plumbing fixtures include a noticeable reduction
pressure of the drain mass.
Let's figure out how to attach the toilet to the floor in the toilet.
There are three methods:
- installation on dowels (bolts),
- on glue
- taffeta fixation.
Let's look at each of these toilet mounting methods in more detail.
Installation using dowels (bolts)
This method is the most practical and does not require large expenses. He also
provides a secure attachment for the toilet, provided that the floor screed
pre-prepared for installation.
Small irregularities do not impair the tightness of the installation, since in this case an elastic gasket can be used.
Fastening the toilet to the floor with bolts is suitable for both conventional structures and
lightweight, compact, that is, this option can be considered universal.
Bolts for attaching the toilet to the floor allow you to get a tight connection,
if a sealing gasket cut from a piece of linoleum is used
or elastic rubber.
These blanks are placed under it, and then outlined along the contour with a marker. Immediately after this, a sharp knife (sometimes scissors are used for this) is cut sealing element, corresponding in shape to the supporting part of the product.
Before fixing the toilet to the floor, markings are made on the surface of the screed
specifically for dowels, into which hardware is then “driven”. The latter are usually included
included in the kit of the mounted device. If they are not available, special bolts for
Mounting the toilet to the floor can be purchased at a hardware store.
The order of further operations looks like this:
- First, the purchased toilet is placed on the already prepared place for fitting, and
then traced along the contour with the same marker. - Then the toilet is removed, and the marked area is coated with a sealing compound,
onto which the previously prepared gasket is glued.
Additional information: in some cases it is possible to do without compaction, but for this, the surface of the floor in the toilet must first be well leveled. - Before attaching the toilet to the prepared surface, you need to
prepare holes for metal dowels, for which a drill with
with a diameter slightly larger than the size of the hardware. - Then the same holes are made at pre-marked points
glued gasket. - Now you can hammer the dowels into them and carefully install them on the gasket
toilet for subsequent fixation. - The bolts for attaching the toilet to the floor should be screwed in very carefully, without
force, being careful not to damage the ceramics.
Violation of this rule when handling tools and hardware can lead to
the appearance of cracks or chips at fastening points.
This is unacceptable - the cup will then become unusable. After securing, proceed to connecting to the sewer, paying attention Special attention connecting the drain channel corrugation.
For education hermetic connection its ends are generously lubricated with silicone,
one of them is inserted into the socket sewer outlet, and the second one is put on
release neck. During installation, the joints are carefully pressed together with your palms,
which will allow the sealed composition to quickly absorb into the corrugation material and form
reliable contact.
To obtain a tight connection, the toilet flush area can be additionally sealed with metallized tape.
After all these operations are completed, it is time to connect the water supply
outlet, and the plumbing fixture is completely ready for use.
Fixation with glue
A reliable mount for the toilet bowl can also be created using an adhesive composition,
purchased in finished form or homemade.
This method is considered the simplest, but at the same time, fastening without bolts will require a lot of time (it takes 12–15 hours for the adhesive epoxy mixture to completely harden).
Another condition for obtaining reliable fastening is as follows. Before as
glue the toilet to the floor, you will need to carefully level the surface of the screed or
cover it with thick floor tiles.
When figuring out how to glue a toilet to the floor or tile, preference is usually given to special epoxy resins prepared according to the instructions included with the composition.
Method of attaching sanitary ware to adhesive composition simple for this
You will need to do the following preparatory operations:
- First, the working surfaces are cleaned of dust and remaining dirt.
Before gluing the toilet to the tile, it is advisable to give it a small
roughness, for which you can use coarse sandpaper - this technique helps improve the adhesion of the surfaces to be bonded.
- Next, they are degreased using a solvent or ordinary acetone, then
You can proceed to preparing the glue. You can buy it in the store ready-made
or cook it yourself.
To do this you will need: 100 parts of ED-6 resin, 200 parts of high-grade cement, 20 parts of solvent and 35 of hardener.
When preparing the adhesive composition, the sequence of actions is important, determining
the order in which individual components are added to it.
First of all, you should heat the resin to 50 degrees and add solvent to the thick solution. This is followed by the addition of a hardener and at the very end of the procedure cement is placed there. During the addition of components, the mixture must be continuously stirred, resulting in a homogeneous and thick plastic mass.
For better fixation of a plumbing fixture on a screed or tile surface
pre-clean and lubricate with a not very thick layer of prepared adhesive
mixtures.
Upon completion of installation, excess epoxy composition up to 4 mm thick, squeezed out by the mass of the device, is immediately removed with a damp cloth.
It is advisable to use the mixture prepared for installation within one and a half hours. Otherwise, it will harden and become unusable.
When installing the toilet, you should carefully ensure that its socket is located exactly opposite the sewer drain hole. If this is not observed, you need to forcefully press the base to the floor.
Upon completion of these operations, the device is left for approximately 12 hours, necessary for the final hardening of the adhesive composition. After the specified time has passed, you can proceed to connecting it to the water supply and sewerage system.
Taffeta fastening
When choosing fasteners for a toilet to the floor, take into account the possibility of installing it on wooden floor, which is usually required in private buildings. In this case, you will need a special gasket made from durable wood (called taffeta).
To make it, take a board 28–30 cm thick, corresponding in size
the shape of a toilet support stand. In order to protect its surface from moisture and destruction
covered with a layer of drying oil.
To properly install the toilet on tiles follow our step by step instructions, equipped with photos and videos.
Working time: ~ 1 hour.
Total time: ~ 24 hours.
Preparing the room for installing a toilet
It is better to install a toilet in a completely renovated room, so as not to damage the plumbing. You must have a hole ready for the outgoing sewer pipe, as well as a water outlet for the drain tank.
Tools and materials required for proper installation
To install the toilet we will need the following tools and materials:
- Adjustable wrench
- Flexible hose
- Fum tape
- Pencil or felt-tip pen
- Yardstick
- Hammer
- Dowels and bolts (must be included with the toilet)
- Plumbing grease
- Liquid silicone
- Rubber spatula
How to properly install a toilet with your own hands
Step 1. Connection to the cistern
Shut off water access to the system. Unscrew the plug on the water outlet using an adjustable wrench. A faucet must be connected here. You can use an angle or straight tap according to your choice. Seal the threads on the tap with fum tape and screw the tap into the water outlet. If using an angle tap, screw it so that it faces down. Turn off the faucet valve.
Screw it on flexible liner to the tap outlet. It is not necessary to use fum tape, since the design of the flexible supply hose includes a sealing rubber band.
Step 2. Marking the toilet installation guide
To install the toilet exactly in the middle of the toilet, measure the width of the room against the wall and mark the middle with a pencil. Do the same in the middle of the room and draw a line along two marks. This line will be our guideline, determining the direction correct installation toilet.
Step 3. Assembling the sewer drain
If necessary, supplement the sewer drain with an angled pipe (45-90 degrees) so that its opening faces the toilet outlet pipe at a smoother angle.
Advice: To make it easier to connect two pipes, use plumber's lubricant. Apply it to inner surface drain hole (lubricate the rubber O-ring) and onto the outside of the corner pipe that will fit into the hole.
The sewer drain can be connected to the toilet outlet in two ways:
- hard plastic adapter;
- flexible corrugation.
In both cases, when inserting connecting element use plumber's lubricant as indicated above.
Step 4. Preparing the base of the toilet and marking it on the tiled floor
Advice: Do not pre-connect the tank to the toilet. You will learn later in the article when and how to connect the tank to the toilet.
Take the base of the toilet and turn it upside down. The edge of the toilet support must be smooth and free of defects. Clean it if necessary with a sharp knife.
Place the toilet base on the floor at the installation location. Refer to the line you drew earlier (see step 2) to position the toilet correctly and exactly in the center of the toilet. Additionally, check the correct installation by measuring the distances from the toilet to the left and right walls with a tape measure.
Connect the toilet pipe to the drain system adapter and outline the perimeter of the toilet base with a pencil or felt-tip pen - this will help you install it in the future without additional measurements. Also mark the locations of the mounting holes on both sides.
Step 5. Attaching the toilet to the tile floor
Move the toilet aside and drill holes in the tile for fasteners. Use a special tile drill. The depth of the holes should be equal to the length of the dowels that come with the toilet. Drive plastic dowels into the holes drilled in the tiles.
Reinstall the toilet along the lines you drew and connect it to the sewer drain. Screw the metal screws with washers that come with the toilet into both mounting holes, but only halfway.
Step 6. Additional fastening of the toilet with liquid silicone
Raise the toilet 0.5-1 cm, place some supports in two or three places (use what you have on hand - plastic, pieces of tile, etc.). Very carefully insert white liquid silicone into the gap between the base of the toilet and the floor tiles. Do this around the entire perimeter of the toilet base. Lift the edges of the toilet with your hands and add silicone as you remove the stands. The silicone should be distributed evenly around the entire perimeter of the toilet base and create a generous “cushion”.
Lower the toilet and tighten the mounting screws completely by hand (without excessive force). Remove any excess silicone that appears on the outside using a dampened plastic spatula. soap solution. Form a beautiful edging around the entire perimeter of the base.
You need to wait a few hours (see the silicone hardening time on the packaging), and only then continue to install the toilet.
How to install a toilet flush mechanism
On the main thread drain device put on the gasket and insert it into the technological hole of the drain tank. WITH reverse side Tighten the wide nut with your own hands - do not use tools to avoid splitting the tank.
Advice: We recommend installing a shut-off device that controls the flow of water into the flush tank after installing the flush tank on the toilet. This will make tightening the mounting screws more convenient - you will not be disturbed by the extra mechanism inside the tank.
When installing the shut-off device, check for burrs on the bottom of the device where the hose fits. Remove any rough edges to ensure a tight connection. Insert the shut-off device into the hole provided for it in the tank and tighten it on the reverse side with a plastic nut. Again, do not use any tools; tighten the nut by hand.
How to install a flush cistern on a toilet
Once the silicone is completely cured and assembled drain mechanism tank, you can begin installing it on the toilet.
Between the flush cistern and the base of the toilet it is necessary to lay a soft gasket in the form of a ring (included with the toilet). Then slide the tank onto the toilet so that the holes for the tie screws on the toilet line up with the holes on the tank. The connecting screws should have a plastic flat washer and a rubber cone washer. Insert the mounting screws into the holes in the drain tank and use plastic nuts (horns) to tighten them on the other side. When tightening the screws, make sure the tank is horizontal.
Screw the flexible hose supplying water to the fitting at the drain tank. This connection does not require the use of fum tape, since the connection will occur through a rubber gasket.
The installation of the flush tank on the toilet is completed, you can open the tap and check the flow of water, as well as see and eliminate possible leaks in the system.
Place the lid on the drain tank so that all elements of the trigger mechanism fit into the hole. Screw the release button into the hole. Check the functionality of the button. At this stage, the installation of the toilet cistern is complete.
How to install a toilet seat and toilet seat
The simplest thing remains. Place the seat on the toilet and insert the mounting screws into the holes. Lightly tighten the screws on the back of the toilet with nuts. The toilet seat installation is complete.
Video lesson: How to properly install a toilet on a tiled floor in a toilet
The work is completed. You installed the toilet yourself and rest assured, you did it right!
If you sort out the issue of installing a toilet, you can save a lot on the services of plumbing specialists. And don’t be afraid of this work, because there are no particularly difficult technological processes. The main thing is to get to the heart of the matter, study the material provided and reinforce the whole theory with the video material you watched.
In this article we will tell you about popular methods of attaching a toilet to the floor. It’s worth saying right away that we will not describe the technology of concreting a toilet; it is gradually becoming a thing of the past. Now the toilet is installed directly on the tile and here it is important to understand the methods of its fastening.
Dismantling works
First of all, it is necessary to carry out installation work to remove the old device. All this work shouldn't take much time. First of all, turn off the tap that supplies water to the tank. After this, the nut on the hose is unscrewed. Water drains from the tank. Next, the mount on the tank is dismantled.
Helpful advice! If the fastener is metal and it is slightly rusty, then unscrewing the nut will be problematic. In this case, you can use special compounds, for example, WD-40. In just a few minutes, the rust will come off and you can easily unscrew the fasteners.
After this, the fasteners on the toilet itself are dismantled. These are usually anchors screwed into the floor. If you still have old toilet, then it can be cemented. In this case, you need to carefully break the screed and completely remove the old toilet.
If there are no plans for it or it is already leaking, then you can break the toilet itself, in which case dismantling will be easier. But remember, this is acceptable if it is concreted!
During the dismantling process, be sure to follow safety precautions so that fragments do not damage unprotected areas of the body. Plus, you need to carefully remove the toilet from the sewer pipe. If it is damaged, the installation process may be difficult.
Preparing the base
After complete dismantling The base for installing the toilet should be prepared. The amount of work will depend entirely on the quality of the floor. If there are tiles on it and you do not plan to replace them, then just make sure that they are held securely. If you remove old tiles and lay new ones, you should not rush to install the toilet.
If the old device was concreted and a hole formed in the floor after its removal, then it must be completely cleaned and cemented. It is also important to pay attention to the outlet of the sewer pipe. It must be intact to eliminate the possibility of leakage waste water. If you have cast iron pipes, then immediately plan to replace the pipe with a plastic one.
Tools
To secure the toilet with your own hands, you need the appropriate tool. Most DIYers have one. In particular, you may need:
- Hammer.
- Adjustable wrench.
- Hammer.
- Roulette.
- New flexible hose.
- FUM tape.
- Fastening elements.
- Sealant.
This is the main set of tools. Its configuration may vary slightly depending on the installation method.
Instructions for fixing the toilet - 3 ways
So, we invite you to familiarize yourself with three ways to secure a toilet:
- Using dowels.
- For glue.
- For taffeta.
Although the technology is different, the task remains the same - securely fix the toilet to the floor so that it does not fall during use.
Using dowels
If you have a flat floor, then this method is the most common. But a perfectly flat tile floor is important here. If there is a slight difference at the mounting location, the toilet may break.
To prevent this from happening, you can place a rubber lining or a piece of old linoleum under the toilet. To cut it out, you need to place the toilet on the material, trace the outline with a marker and then cut out the given shape.
After this, markings are carried out directly on the floor. In most cases, toilets have two fasteners. The marking process is carried out as follows:
- Place the toilet in the intended place.
- Trace its outline on the floor.
- Place marks where the mounting hole will be drilled.
- Remove the device and apply a sealant to the floor, with which the lining you selected and cut will be glued.
While the sealant hardens, you can begin making the hole. The quality of fastening will largely depend on the correct drill diameter chosen. It must fully match the diameter of the dowel. You can drill through the gasket.
A plastic dowel must be driven into the prepared hole. After this, we install the toilet in place and secure it with dowels. The device should be firmly tightened, but only moderately, otherwise the eyelet on the mount may break off.
For simplified installation, usually the dowels for fastening are equipped with a special plastic gasket, which eliminates the possibility of possible chipping.
At the next stage, the toilet is connected to the sewer, the tank is installed and the water is connected. When installing the tank, a rubber seal must be used. To make it more likely, it can be coated with silicone or other sealant. This will increase the quality of the joint and prevent water leakage during draining.
note
After filling the tank, you need to drain it several times. This is done to ensure that all joints are completely sealed: between the tank and the toilet, on the water hose and on the sewer pipe connection.
At the end of all work, it is recommended to treat the junction of the toilet and the tiles on the floor silicone sealant. This will prevent water from flowing in and moisture from accumulating.
On glue
You can also fix the toilet with glue. This is especially necessary when there is heated floor technology. As an adhesive composition they can be different materials, such as epoxy glue, silicone and other sealants.
If epoxy adhesive is present, its use is only allowed if the floors are sufficiently smooth. The work process is as follows:
- First, the floor surface must be thoroughly cleaned of all kinds of contaminants. There should also be no moisture that will prevent good adhesion.
- To ensure high adhesion quality, floor tiles can be roughened using a stiff brush.
- Next, the surface is degreased with acetone or another solvent.
- If the glue is ready, then it must be applied to the bottom of the toilet sole, with a layer thickness of up to 4 mm.
- Then bring the device to the sewer hole, connect it and at the same time install it in its place.
- After placing the toilet on the floor, it must be pressed and left for half a day for the glue to harden.
- Only when the glue has dried can the tank and water supply be connected.
That's the whole technology of gluing the toilet to the floor.
For taffeta
If you have a wooden floor, then this method of fixing the toilet is the most suitable. Taffeta refers to a special layer of wood.
The thickness of the wood should be around 300 mm. In order to prevent rotting of this embedded part, it must be treated with drying oil and other anti-corrosion compounds. The essence of this technology is as follows:
- Place nails on the prepared timber so that they protrude 30 mm from the taffeta.
- Next, a recess is prepared in the screed according to the size of the taffeta.
- Fill the hole with solution.
- Apply the workpiece to the solution with the side where the nails stick out.
- As a result, it should be flush with the floor.
- It is necessary to give time for the solution to completely set and strengthen.
- After 12 hours, you can fix the toilet using self-tapping screws directly into the wooden embed.
Advice! To make the screws easy to tighten, they can be lubricated with graphite or grease. Thanks to this, after a while they will also be easy to unscrew..
After this, the standard procedure for connecting the barrel is carried out. Additionally, you can coat the joint between the toilet and taffeta with silicone. This will eliminate the possibility that moisture will flow and accumulate under the sole.
Conclusion
So, we looked at the two most common technologies for how to properly install a toilet on tiles. We also additionally learned what to do if you have a wooden floor. As you can see, there are no particularly complex processes. One of the main tasks is to choose the right fasteners.
Although in most cases, it comes with the purchased device. We hope that this material will help you independently understand all the details of installing and fastening the toilet.
How to install a toilet on tiles with your own hands, video example
Installation of plumbing equipment is carried out in strict accordance with building regulations and norms. Home craftsmen are often afraid of such work. This is used by service companies that charge very decent money for performing fairly simple operations. Meanwhile, fixing the toilet to the floor is quite accessible for self-execution event. It is only important to carefully familiarize yourself with existing work technologies, choose the most suitable one, and strictly follow all instructions.
Regardless of the chosen method of attaching the toilet, installation work begins with assembling the flush cistern. The device is assembled in accordance with the instructions and fixed in the place intended for it. Also, before installing the toilet, the water supply and drainage units must be prepared. There are several methods for attaching devices. The main selection criterion is the floor material on which the equipment will be installed. Let's take a closer look at the most common methods.
Method No. 1: installation on dowels
The most practical method to install the device with at the lowest cost energy and time. It is optimal for use on a flat, smooth base, since the slightest differences in height negatively affect the quality of flushing. It is preferable to use this fastening method for lightweight compact structures, since the fixation may not be entirely reliable. Plumbers advise installing the equipment on a special gasket, which you can easily make yourself from old linoleum or a sheet of thin rubber. The toilet bowl is installed on the workpiece and traced along the contour with a marker. After which, using a sharp knife or simply scissors, the gasket of the desired shape is cut out.
The device is fixed to the floor using dowels or special plumbing fasteners. Fasteners are usually included with new equipment. It can also be purchased in specialized stores
Now you need to mark. We “try on” the toilet in the place prepared for the equipment and trace its outline. We remove the device. Apply a thin layer of sealant and glue the gasket onto it. This design will be the most reliable, although some craftsmen prefer to do without a substrate at all. You can start drilling holes for fasteners. As practice shows, if you glue the gasket well and choose the diameter of the drill so that the holes for the fasteners are slightly larger than it, then further installation will be much easier. This is due to the fact that the rubber backing acts as a kind of “contact spot” for the floor and the device.
It happens that you need to not only fix the toilet to the floor, but also raise it a little. This is relevant if there are several devices in the apartment. Then the last one in the system needs to be raised by about 3-4 cm. In this case, use a piece of a two-inch board, which is used as a stand. It is cut exactly along the contour of the toilet and laid on the floor, with a rubber backing placed on top of it. All this is held together with sealant and forms a reliable and robust construction. We drill holes for fastenings directly along the gasket.
You must tighten the fastening on the base of the toilet very carefully. Excessive force may damage the ceramic material from which the device is made.
Long metal dowels or special plumbing fasteners can be used as fastenings. The latter usually come complete with new equipment. The quality of fastening is approximately the same, so both options can be used. We hammer the dowels into the holes prepared in the floor. We install the toilet and carefully screw it on. It must be remembered that if over-tightened, the ceramic from which the device is made may be damaged.
Now you need to connect the device to the sewer. At this stage we pay special attention to the corrugation. Generously lubricate both edges with silicone. We insert one of them into the sewer socket, and put the second one on the toilet outlet. All areas of the connection should be carefully pressed with your fingers to ensure a good seal. As additional measure You can use metallized tape to seal the joints. We connect the water supply and the device is ready for use. There is a similar fastening method, which is presented in detail in the video.
Method No. 2: glue installation
Of all the methods for fixing a toilet to the floor, this is the simplest, but at the same time the most time-consuming. It takes about 12-15 hours for the epoxy mixture, which is used as glue, to harden. This method can only be used on smooth surface. It is most often used to secure equipment to floor tiles. The method is very simple to implement. First, both surfaces to be glued must be thoroughly cleaned of dust and debris. Floor tiles can be sanded to make it rougher. This will improve the adhesion of the material. Surfaces are degreased with any solvent or acetone.
Prepare the glue. You can buy a ready-made epoxy compound or prepare it yourself. To do this you need to take 100 parts epoxy resin ED-6, 200 parts of cement, 20 parts of solvent or plasticizer and 35 parts of hardener. The sequence of adding components to the solution is important. First, the resin is heated to 50C, a solvent is added to it, then a hardener and, at the very end, cement. The composition must be constantly stirred to form a plastic, homogeneous mass.
To ensure the toilet is securely locked in place, flooring prepare: clean for better adhesion and coat with a small layer of glue. Excess composition released under the weight of the equipment is immediately removed with a damp cloth.
A properly prepared adhesive mixture can be used within one and a half hours. We apply it to the base of the toilet so that the solution covers an area of at least 20 square meters. cm, and the layer thickness was at least 4 mm. We install the prepared equipment in the right place, aligning the sewer socket with the outlet, and forcefully press it to the floor. After which we leave the device for at least 12 hours. This period is necessary for the adhesive to harden. During this time, it is not recommended to even touch the toilet. Then we connect the equipment to the water supply and sewerage.
Method No. 3: fastening with taffeta
This method is most often used to install toilets on wooden floors. Taffeta is a pad of durable wood to which the equipment is attached. The thickness of the board from which the element corresponding to the shape of the toilet support column is cut should be 28-32 mm. To protect the part from dampness, it must be carefully treated with drying oil. To securely fasten it to the floor, anchors are installed at the bottom of the taffeta. The simplest option is nails driven in in a checkerboard pattern, which should protrude 2-3 cm from the part. The recess prepared for installing the toilet is filled cement mortar. Taffeta is sunk into it with anchors. As a result, it should be flush with the floor.
After approximately 12 hours, during which the solution completely dries, you can begin attaching the equipment. The device is fixed with screws. Rubber washers must be placed under their heads, which will prevent possible damage to the toilet frame when tightened. Experts advise lubricating the screws with grease or graphite before work so that later, if necessary, they can be easily unscrewed. Wood taffeta can be replaced with a rubber backing. She's cut out of sheet material thickness from 5 to 15 mm, possibly even from an old rubber mat. Such a substrate should be 1-2 cm smaller than the toilet support stand.
Fastening the toilet to taffeta involves the use of a special wooden insert. The diagram shows all the elements of such fastening
The methods for attaching a standard toilet to the floor are varied. They differ significantly in complexity and time spent on installation work. It is important to choose the right fastening method. It depends on the material from which the floor in the room is made. You can carry out the installation work yourself, but if you have no experience or desire, it is better to turn to professionals. They will quickly and competently carry out all the work, guaranteeing long and flawless service of the new equipment.
Nowadays there are three main methods of fixing a toilet. They differ in fastening elements (dowels, glue, screws), as well as in the base or material from which the floor in the bathroom is made. The time that will pass from the moment the work is completed to the start of using the toilet will also differ. We will try to consider these methods of attaching a toilet and the nuances that are worth considering.
Methods for attaching the toilet to the floor
Main methods:
- Fastening with dowels.
- Adhesive installation.
- Installation using taffeta.
Even before purchasing, you should also decide how to secure the toilet to the floor. Let's consider these methods.
Fastening with dowels
This fastening method is the most common. The base for this mounting is a concrete floor. The floor can also be tiled that can be drilled.
The underlying surface must be level enough so that the toilet can be mounted without distortions, and in the future the drainage system will work normally.
How to properly install and secure a toilet
Before proceeding with installation, you need to make sure that the connection between the toilet and the sewer pipes allows it to be mounted in the required location. If flexible corrugation is used, there will be no problems. If a rigid pipe or elbow is used, then it is necessary to first put them in the working position and, if necessary, adjust them to size by cutting off the excess. This adjustment can be made for any mounting method.
When purchasing, make sure that it comes with bolts for attaching the toilet. Otherwise, you will need to purchase the kit yourself.
Make sure that the diameter of the dowels and bolts matches the hole in the base of the toilet. The bolts must be equipped with a rubber gasket under its head.
To secure the toilet to tiled floor, it is installed in the required position and future holes are marked. The toilet is removed, then using a drill in normal drilling mode, holes with the diameter indicated on the dowel are drilled to a depth of at least the length of the dowel .
It is necessary to drill holes in concrete (not in tiles) at a slight angle with the drill going inward, since the shelf on the toilet leg, by which it will be pulled, also has a certain slope.
- Drilling tiles. To drill tiles, drills with special tips for tiles are used. Do not use drill bits with an impact drill or hammer drill. Once the tiles have been drilled, drilling into the concrete can be continued using the hammer drill mode with a concrete drill bit. If the drilling depth is large, it is necessary to allow the drill to cool.
- Drilling porcelain stoneware. To drill porcelain tiles, use porcelain tile bits. Because small diameter crowns do not have a center drill, a jig is used to hold the crown in place. It is made from a piece of board by drilling a hole in it with a diameter corresponding to the crown. The jig is placed over the marked hole, a drill with a crown is inserted and a small recess is drilled. After this, there is no longer a need for a conductor.
- Cooling of the crown is carried out by pouring a small amount of water directly onto the drilled hole and around the future hole.
When the holes are ready, dowels are inserted into them, the toilet is placed on top and bolted to the floor.
Some experts advise using a rubber gasket between the tiles and the toilet. It will serve as a kind of damper, which will ensure a more uniform fit of the toilet to the tile and close possible gaps. This gasket must be cut exactly to the shape of the mounting surface.
You can also use clear caulk to seal gaps. It is pre-applied to the bottom of the toilet, or it is passed along the rim after installation.
To avoid damage ceramic coating on the toilet, under the head of the bolt it is necessary to place a rubber gasket with a diameter of at least the head. Also, the bolt should be screwed tightly, but without excessive force. It's ceramic, not metal, and it's fragile.
Now all that remains is (if necessary) to ensure the tightness of the outlet element at the junction with the toilet and reception area sewer pipe crimp rings, connect the water supply, adjust the drain and the product can be used.
How to fix a toilet with side holes
This is a variation of the first method. However, the side attachment of the toilet to the floor is different. The fasteners themselves will be located inside the toilet mounting leg. For them, holes are also marked on the floor, and the fasteners are first screwed on. Then the toilet is installed on top of them and fixed to the fasteners through the side holes. This type of fastening is a little more complicated, but has a more aesthetic appearance.
If the toilet is installed before laying the tiles (which is undesirable), then it is necessary to provide a substrate on which it will be raised to the future floor level. Subsequently, this will make it easier to maintain and replace the toilet without damaging the floor covering.
Installing a toilet on an adhesive base
When drilling the floor in the place where the toilet is installed is unacceptable, then the only method of fastening is adhesive-based installation. If you were thinking about how to fix the toilet so that it does not wobble, then this method will probably be the most suitable.
Begin by cleaning the floor and base of the toilet from dust, dirt, grease and other substances that prevent adhesion. After which the toilet is installed in its future location and its shape is outlined with a marker.
The tile in the place of gluing must first be treated with rough sandpaper or other tool to roughen the surface. This will significantly enhance the adhesion (gluing) of the adhesive to the tile.
After this, dust is removed from the surfaces to be glued, and they are degreased with a solvent or acetone. A layer of special epoxy-based adhesive is applied along the line outlined on the floor. The thickness of the glue should be at least four millimeters. In order not to bother yourself with preparation, it will be much easier to buy it cooked.
Carefully install the toilet on top of the applied glue, aligning the toilet outlet with the sewer pipe. We press the toilet, leveling the seating surface.
Now it must be left alone for at least 12 hours until the glue hardens. At this time, it is advisable not to even touch it. After hardening, the necessary connections are made.
The toilet is ready for use.
Installation using taffeta
If your bathroom has wooden floors and the boards are thin, you will need to think about how to secure the toilet to prevent it from wobbling.
Methods for attaching the toilet using taffeta are designed to solve this problem. These methods involve creating a certain void in the floor in the shape of the mounting surface of the toilet with a recess of 5 - 7 centimeters. It will be filled with cement mortar to a depth from the floor level minus the thickness of the taffeta.
Taffeta is made from hard rocks wood (oak, acacia). A board 28 - 32 millimeters thick is taken and a shape is cut out of it that matches the shape of the toilet sole. This form must be treated generously with drying oil to avoid wetting and swelling. Nails or anchors are placed at the bottom of this form in a checkerboard pattern. They should protrude beyond the board by 2 - 3 centimeters.
We produce mortar or concrete mixture. Depending on the required thickness The strength of the solution should be selected. For a thickness of 3–5 centimeters, a proportion of 400 grade cement to 1/4 sand will be sufficient. As the thickness of the mortar increases, its strength should decrease and the number of driven nails should increase.
If possible, it is better to prepare a concrete mixture using crushed stone of fraction 5 - 10 with volumetric proportions of cement/sand/crushed stone - 1/3/3. The result will be sanded concrete that will not crack if the layer is thick, but will be flexible enough to embed taffeta into it.
Then the taffeta is immersed in a solution poured into the recess and lowered with vibrating movements to the same level as the floor. The excess solution should spread to the sides. If this is not possible, it is necessary to provide for the possibility of removing excess solution. To do this, the recess in the floor should be slightly wider than the taffeta, and the solution should have sufficient plasticity. This is achieved by adding a plasticizer, but not water.
Now you need to let the solution set. Although it is recommended to wait 12 hours, it is advisable to increase this time if no reaction accelerators were added to the solution. Wait at least a day. After all, the time for complete reaction of cement without additives is 28 days.
After the solution has set, you can install the toilet. It is secured with long screws of the appropriate diameter. Don't forget to place rubber gaskets under the screw heads.
