The entrance doors of apartments and private houses must not only be insulated, but also, if necessary, sealed, achieving, if possible, the maximum allowable design features tightness between the canvas and the box. The effect of a properly performed compaction will make itself felt immediately - it will become warmer and even cleaner in an apartment or your house; there will be fewer drafts if they do not disappear at all; annoying extraneous sounds and smells will no longer penetrate from the entrance or from the street. Sealing any doorway can be done independently - for this, there are several ways to do this work and types of seals for both metal and wooden doors, as they say, for any ability and wallet of the owner of the home.
Where and how to start - preparatory work
First, inspect the door and box. If they already have some kind of seal that has ceased to perform its functions, then it must be dismantled. After that, if necessary, we perform a preliminary cleaning of the surfaces in those places where the old material was, removing its remnants. We use fine sandpaper for this.
Then recommended if necessary. Misalignment will cause uneven fit and seal wear. different value gaps between the frame and the door at the top and bottom, left and right will also lead to this if a material of the same thickness is selected for the entire opening. Or you will have to select a seal for each side of the opening. The critical value of misalignment and gap size difference is 1–1.5 mm. If they are larger, then it is better to eliminate them by adjusting the door. It happens that performing this operation eliminates the reason why it was decided to seal the opening, and there is no need for such work.
Now we determine the installation location and the type of seal. It depends on which part of the door or frame needs to be measured in order to find out the right amount of material.
Then we measure the perimeter (or it is enough to measure the width and height in one place, and then add and multiply by 2) of the contour on which the sealing inserts will be installed. This is the total length the right material. But it is better to take with a margin, based on the place and method of installation.
Then, if the seal is intended for installation in one of the gaps between the door and the frame, its required width and thickness should be determined. The first size is clear. It is determined by measuring the width of the installation site.
To determine the thickness, ordinary plasticine is best suited. We sculpt it on the box at the place of the upcoming installation of the material and close the door. Then we open it and measure the thickness of the flattened-lubricated plasticine. This will be right size sealing insert height. But this is the thickness of the material in the compressed state when the door is closed.
It is necessary to take the seal a little thicker. In this case, it is necessary to take into account what material the insert is made of, as well as its density, rigidity and strength. For example, a too thick foam pad may soon simply tear, and a rubber one will prevent the door from closing well and bursting it, which will create an additional load on the lock and hinges, thereby reducing their service life. And if the insert is not thick enough, then gaps may remain somewhere.
If the gap on the left, right, bottom and top is different and very different, then it will be necessary to make thickness measurements with plasticine for each of these sides and, possibly, take material with a corresponding different height. For wooden unadjusted (skewed) doors, in the case of sealing with rails along the gap, it may generally be necessary to adjust at least 2 extreme points of each side.
It is necessary to buy sealing inserts in whole pieces of the required total length for all sides or for each of them if it needs to be cut. And in any case, it is not recommended to use separate pieces, and even more so cuttings of the sealant. The result of such work will be poor-quality sealing of the door, therefore, if part of the material was damaged during unsuccessful cutting or installation, it is better to buy it in the required length.
After acquiring the material, we produce, if necessary, its cutting (cutting) into pieces of the desired size. And only immediately before installation, if necessary, we prepare the surfaces on which the sealant will be installed. We clean them of dust and dirt and remove convex irregularities. Then, if a sealant with an adhesive base (self-adhesive) or with the help of glue is being installed, the surfaces of the metal door must also be degreased (with white spirit, solvent, acetone or gasoline), and the wood should be sanded with the smallest scissor (zero).
Then we start installing the material. special attention, precision and accuracy requires sealing corners. This is where the risk of leaving gaps is highest. When laying the seal in pieces (2 short for the bottom and top and 2 long for the left and right side), loose joints may occur between them. And when installed as a whole, the seal in the corners tends to wrinkle and / or may not attach tightly enough.
We seal a metal door - types of materials and their installation
The choice of sealant must be taken no less seriously than its subsequent installation. After all, it also depends on how long it will last, and most importantly, it will be possible to increase the tightness of the opening, including. Choose desired type and type of material according to the following criteria:
- Design features front door: Are there any special slots or space for installing a sealing insert. They are provided in branded doors of reputable manufacturers.
- The location of the door is apartment in the entrance or with access to the street in a private house. This affects operating conditions such as temperature and humidity. Their performance is especially important in winter.
- Slit size in doorway which needs to be eliminated.
Accordingly, we select a product with the desired characteristics:
- 1. Material type: rubber, plastic, PE foam, silicone or foam.
- 2. Type of profile: regular rectangular or square without sectional cavities or profiled - can have the most different shape and cavities and/or protrusions, including those intended for mounting on a door.
- 3. Type or method of fastening: coupling with profile elements to the part of the door structure intended for this (for profiled seals); fixation clamping bar(metal or from the same material); by gluing with an adhesive base (for self-adhesive inserts) or using a universal adhesive or .
Note:
- 1. You can make a seal yourself: for example, we wrap foam rubber in leatherette or artificial leather. Mounting is done by gluing.
- 2. Self-tapping seals are installed only on wooden doors.
- 3. What compositions should be used to glue the foam inserts, described in the article.
To seal a metal front door, rubber inserts are most often used. By the way, they are produced in all types of profile and mounting methods. Various profiled rubber seals are in great demand, the most common of which resemble letters in shape:
- C, K and E-profiles - used for small gaps - up to 3 mm - between the frame and the door;
- P and V-profiles - for medium slots 3–5 mm in size;
- D and O-profiles - for large gaps up to 7 mm.
Most profiled inserts are designed to be installed in the opening on the end of the door or opposite it on the frame. The latter are mounted only by gluing. Doors can also be so-called mortise - they are installed by pressing into a special groove on the door frame. There are also sealing inserts installed on the porch of the box. They just stick. When the porch is double, the material is usually mounted on each of them. The dimensions of the insert for the first and second vestibules are different. There are also such seals that are mounted not in the opening, but on the edge (end) of the outer decorative door leaf.
Equally in demand are rubber seals of a solid rectangular and square section. Mounted by gluing in the opening and/or on the porch and on the door and/or frame.
Plastic, polyethylene foam and silicone seals also produce almost all of the above types (rubber). Foam rubber - mostly solid rectangular and square sections, and there are also profiled products with a simple profile. But all foam rubber seals are installed only by gluing.
Rubber, plastic, polyethylene foam and silicone plastic sealing inserts are produced in different colors, which allows you to choose the material to match the color of the door or its tone. Most of the colors are for rubber seals. However, experts say that dyes significantly reduce the quality of seals. And first of all, again, this applies to rubber products.
The installation of the seal is carried out in the selected location of the frame and / or door along their entire perimeter and in accordance with the type of installation envisaged. At the corners, a joint is usually made, that is, the material is cut. To do this, first measure desired length for each side from one corner to the other. Then the material is cut into pieces, which are cut off from a common skein at an angle of 45 o . And then they install it.
Self-adhesive (with a base in the form of a film on which glue is applied), as many believe, it is the easiest to mount. The protective paper from their adhesive base must be removed during the process (after cutting into pieces) and as the seal is installed . That is, they separated the paper from a small section of the material and immediately pressed it against the door. And so gradually, but without stopping, we move until we finish the entire opening (if we seal it with a single piece of insert) or one side of it (when the door seal is cut into 4 parts). Then once again press the sealing insert well. If the glued seal peels off after some time, then it must be glued with Moment glue.
Sealing a wooden door - the most common options
To condense wooden door, you can glue any of the profiled or solid rectangular (square) materials listed in the previous chapter. Of course, from among those that are designed for such an installation (self-adhesive and mounted with glue). For greater reliability of attachment, you can additionally screw the sealing inserts through the washers with self-tapping screws. The installation locations are the same as for the metal door.
And it is possible to seal the material own production- the so-called rollers. We wrap some kind of insulation (foam rubber is most often used) in leatherette or artificial leather. This is the roller. It must be mounted inside the apartment (house). Installation is done:
- On the box - along its inner surface on the left, right and top at a short distance from the door. It is necessary to ensure that the door, when closing, fits snugly against the rollers. The rollers are not mounted on the threshold, because they wear out very quickly.
- And on the door - to its lower edge.
The rollers are fastened with decorative nails along that side of them, which is opposite to the place where the leatherette is folded in half around the foam rubber.
Despite the effectiveness of sealing by the above methods, it is currently customary to use a variety of flashing rails for wooden doors:
- wedge-shaped strips;
- outer strips;
- plastic tubes inserted with the help of special clamps on them into the grooves;
- metal and plastic strips with a brush or rubber band;
- and others.
The wedge-shaped bar is installed on the box in the corner between the porch and the surface opposite the frame of the closed door. Moreover, installation is done only for the upper part of the opening and its sides. Before mounting, the bar is cut to the size of these installation sites. For docking points (at the top of the opening), they are cut at an angle of 45 o. And it is necessary to cut the bar in the places with which it will adhere to door lock and loops. Then we nail it with nails.
The outer bar is installed on the door stop of the box (that is, it is, as it were, a continuation of the vestibule). It is also cut to the size of the opening for its top and sides. Mount with screws or self-tapping screws. After correct installation between plank and closed door a sheet of paper must pass.
There are also rails that are installed on the outer front side of the door, closing the gap in the opening. They are also first cut into segments of the desired size. Then they are screwed to the door, which must be closed at the same time. It is very important to carry out installation with corrosion-resistant screws - rusted hardware can cause rotting of a wooden door.
The bottom of the doorway is sealed with other types of slats, the technology of which is also slightly different . Some flash rails are nailed to the threshold, while others are nailed to the inner front side doors. All of them are cut along the width of the bottom of the doorway, fastened with screws.
Flat threshold products are an aluminum or plastic base, to the bottom of which a brush or a rubber plate is attached. Such strips can be installed both on external and on internal doors. After correct installation the gap between the flat rail and the threshold should be as small as possible. But at the same time, the bar should not interfere with the easy free opening and closing of the door. Some types of flat bars are equipped with special (elongated) holes for screws, thanks to which you can adjust the height of their installation.
Threshold products with a plastic shield prevent moist air from entering the apartment (house). As a rule, they are installed on the outer door.
Combined slats consist of 2 metal slats, one of which has a nylon brush attached. The product without a brush is mounted on the threshold. And a bar with a brush - on the door. The rail on the threshold is equipped with a special groove that prevents water from entering the room.
After the combined rail has been properly installed, the hanging edge of the rail installed on the threshold should “look” towards the premises. And the door lining brush should exert a slight pressure on the sill rail.
It is quite difficult to fit a wooden door to a door frame in such a way that they fit snugly. Yes, and wood is a material that is subject to deformation when dried and changes its dimensions, depending on the humidity in the room. And this means that between the door frame and the door there will always remain, albeit small, but a gap. Sounds will seep through the gap between the box and the door, and if we are talking about the front door, then dust and cold.
To put a barrier in the way of cold, noise and dust, you need a seal for a wooden door. It also has a cushioning function, that is, it softens the blows of the door on the box.
What types of seals does the modern market provide?
Seal parameters
First, seals are made from various materials. These are foam rubber, and rubber, and artificial rubber, and PVC, and polyurethane.
Secondly, seals differ in profile shape and color. The seal profile can be rectangular (foam rubber, rubber) or different shapes capable of sealing gaps when compressed different sizes and take a different shape (PVC, polyurethane). These are E-, P-, B-, V-, C-, O-profiles, the shape of which resembles the letters of the Latin alphabet (a profile similar to the letter “E” is called “K-profile”). Also profiles come in other configurations.
Thirdly, the method of fastening to the door frame. The seal for a wooden door can be self-adhesive, requiring gluing with a silicone sealant or a ditch type, i.e., designed to be inserted into a groove cut by a special cutter in the door frame. If there is no groove, it must be cut with a face mill to a depth of 6-7 mm.
Types of seals
Foam seals are usually self-adhesive. They are the most worn and short-lived. Designed for one season; not very effective due to the fragility of the material.
Rubber seals are D-shaped, designed to seal gaps of 8-11 mm and are glued with a sticky rubber layer. Their frost resistance down to -40 °C, resistant to ultraviolet. There are black and white colors.
Ethylene propylene rubber seals are reinforced with fiberglass and come in different colors (white, gray, black, yellow and coffee), D-, E-, P-, V- and rectangular profile and are designed for joints from 1-2 to 2-7 mm. They are superelastic, resistant to frost and heat (range from -50 to 150 °C). Attached to an adhesive backing.
Gaskets made of modified PVC - groove type, have profiles of seven different configurations, designed to seal gaps from 2 to 9 mm. They are resistant to temperature extremes and ultraviolet. Presented in monochrome, yellow and brown. Mounting method: inserted into a groove sawn with a cutter in the door frame using a special tool or a thin screwdriver.
It remains to be added that the softer and more elastic the sealant, the better it will take its original shape after compression, and the more long term service it is calculated. When buying self-adhesive seals, you need to pay attention to the expiration date of the adhesive layer - if it is expired, the seal will not last long. Groove seals are most firmly attached to the door frame and are designed for 5-10 years of service.
Regardless of which wooden door you have chosen for your home, it must fulfill its functions 100%: to protect the house or apartment from the intrusion of noise, smell, dust, drafts. canvas and box without additional elements cannot provide it completely.
Gaps and crevices are the main disadvantage of wooden doors due to the nature of wood. Seals solve the problem.
Wood has the ability to change its qualities under the influence of climatic phenomena and environment. Therefore, slots and gaps for both the entrance and are provided even for expensive models.
Modern technologies make it possible to solve such a problem in a factory way or with your own hands. A seal for wooden doors is of interest to many consumers who think about their comfort. Consider the specifics and varieties of insulation to eliminate gaps between any canvas and a box in a doorway.
Sealant for wooden doors: specifics of use
Do not rush to run to the store right away if your door is not tightly adjacent to the box. Without knowing the detailed characteristics of the seal, it is difficult to choose what is right for your door. Just as door blocks are different, seals have their own classification.
A large assortment of seals can confuse any buyer. Let's figure it out.
According to the material used for the production, door seals are divided into the following types:
- rubber;
- PVC material;
- on a foam basis;
- rubber;
- silicone.
How softer material, used for the production of a sealant, the better its properties and the density of the adjoining of the web to the box. For self-installation, you can not use all types of sealant, because the specific installation of each type has its own subtleties.
Seals are divided according to the place of installation and their functional purpose:
- threshold seals - hide the gap between the floor and the canvas;
- fire-fighting - allow you to reduce the penetration of smoke into an apartment or other room during a fire;
- contour - mounted on all sides of the web or door frame to prevent the influence of external factors.
Let's get acquainted with each of the types of insulating tapes in more detail.
Threshold door seals
Attached to the bottom of the canvas at the end. A seal that replaces the threshold improves the tight fit of the door if there is no threshold in the opening or the floors have different levels, different flooring is used in two adjacent rooms.
The threshold seal for doors allows you to hide the gap between the floor and the leaf in the absence of a threshold. Such a seal works only at the moment the door is closed, completely hiding the gap between the floor and the canvas. Installation is carried out in the factory.
It is difficult to install a threshold heater on your own. It is better to provide for its installation when ordering from the door manufacturer. In the lower part of the canvas, a special cut-profile is made with a milling cutter, into which a sealant with a special button is mounted. This button is a specific lever that is compressed when the door is closed and lowers the seal brush down. At the moment of opening the door, the button returns to its original position and raises the aluminum strip with the brush inside the canvas. Install the button most often from the side of the loops.
If you do not want to put a threshold in a house or apartment in interior opening, but there is a need for thermal, noise or sound insulation, use a threshold seal for.
Fire seals for wooden doors
This is a special type of sealant made of a material that has the property of foaming, swelling from exposure to high temperatures.
Exposed Fire Sealant high temperatures foams and blocks the path of smoke. Typically, such elements are installed in institutions with high level fire hazard. The seal does not allow smoke to enter the room, which increases the possibility of evacuation or saving lives. In apartments fire-fighting material fixed at the request of the owner when ordering a wooden door.
Contour seal for a wooden door
Installed in two ways:
- along the perimeter of the canvas;
- around the perimeter of the racks.
The option is selected by the client based on the features. It is produced in the form of a tape, which is in the greatest demand among analogues. It can be supplied with the door when ordered or installed independently.
The contour seal is installed in the groove of the canvas or box. Surface gluing is possible. The choice is up to the consumer. At the factory, a groove is made along the end of the box or canvas, into which the fastening (leg) of the seal is inserted. For better adhesion, the base is coated with silicone-based glue.
When installing with your own hands, choose a self-adhesive tape, which is easily fixed with a sticky side to the surface. It is necessary to remove the protective film, stick the tape yourself, pressing firmly and holding for a few seconds. The disadvantage of this model is the short service life. The tape under constant friction loses its elasticity, the glue dries out. After a year or two, you will have to replace the entire insulation layer again.
You can independently install the seal in the groove if you first make a special cut with a milling cutter. The contour seal installed in the groove serves longer and more reliably. If the door was bought a long time ago and the seal is not provided on it, remove the canvas, make a groove with your own hands and install an insulating profile. It will take a little time, but will create comfortable conditions for living without smells, noise, drafts.
Choosing the right door seal
To purchase a product, it is not enough to know information about its varieties; it is necessary to clarify the parameters of the door unit that needs to be improved. Slots, gaps are not the same, so the seal for each case requires a different size and type of profile.
Perhaps you paid attention to the similarity of the edge of the product with some letters of the alphabet: E, P, C, O, etc. This different types profiles that have their purpose. Some products are universal and can be installed both on the input and interior door. But some models are developed only for a certain canvas, its thickness, the material used. The more information you know about your door, the easier it is to choose the right type of profile.
Some products can be selected color scheme corresponding to the color of the door: beech, alder, oak, wenge, etc. But there are also classic seals in black, white and brown.
Do not use 1 mm thick tape if the gap between the tape and the box is 9 mm. Choose the right size for a positive result.
When choosing a wooden one or for your home, take care of the seals at the stage of ordering the product. Specialists will take into account all the nuances of installing the unit, select the necessary insulating materials. And you will enjoy the comfort that a reliable wooden door will provide.
The seal for the entrance wooden doors is designed to solve the issue of thermal insulation of residential premises. There are several types of materials designed to seal gaps formed during operation. entrance group.
All seals are produced in the form of tapes having different profiles and widths. For the manufacture of these products are used the following materials:
- rubber;
- ethylene propylene rubber;
- polychlorovinide (PVC);
- foam rubber;
- silicone.
All elastic seals for wooden entrance doors are called contour, which indicates the features of their installation: along the contour of the door leaf or frame. The most common options are foam-based and PVC tapes. The first have a self-adhesive base, fragile and short-lived. Their main advantage is their low price.
Self-adhesive foam tapes are suitable for filling small gaps formed between the wooden door leaf and the frame. In order to prevent cold air from entering the living room, it is important to choose the right thickness of the tape.
Rubber bands have D-shape and are designed to eliminate wider gaps: 8-12 mm. The manufacturers of these sealing tapes offer these materials in two color solutions: black and white. For warming the entrance group of a dwelling, garage and workshop, any will do.
Ethylene propylene rubber tapes are the most durable of all listed, as they are reinforced with fiberglass threads. The profile of these self-adhesive materials is different: D-, E-, P-, V-shaped, as well as rectangular. Any of these types of tapes are designed to fill gaps with a width of 1-7 mm. Among the advantages are high frost resistance and a wide range operating temperature: from -50°С to +50°С.
fire fighting
Thermal insulation materials fire-fighting type used in the construction and glazing of entrance wooden doors, expansion joints. These tapes have a self-adhesive base and are capable of expanding under the influence of high temperatures in a planar direction (only in height) or in three directions at once: in both directions and in height. The task of such materials is to localize the fire in the room in which it originated.
The most popular are two types of fire seals: Palusol and ROKU-strip. The processes of foaming and expansion of these tapes begin at a temperature of 100°C. Sealing a wooden door is possible in three ways:
- along the perimeter of the door frame at the points of contact with the door leaf;
- in the grooves of the front door or box;
- along the contour of a wooden or metal front door.
Threshold
The threshold seal for the door is able to reliably close the gaps through which cold air. Distinctive feature of these products is that they are made from more durable materials:
- rubber;
- thermoplastic elastomer;
- ethylpropylene rubber.
All these materials long time do not lose their properties. Threshold seals are installed in a gap specially made for this purpose in the end part of the wooden door leaf. Inside this slot, first insert a plastic or metallic profile, then a strip of thermoplastic elastomer or rubber.
In the side part of the profile there is a button, upon contact with the door frame thermal insulation material falls out of the gap cavity and reliably covers the space between the floor and the lower part of the door leaf. There should be no gaps between the floor and the rubber gasket. When opening, the seal rises and enters the groove intended for it.
The specifics of the use of seals
All heat and noise insulating materials designed to eliminate gaps in door blocks, easy to stick on a wooden base and just as easy to remove. This ease of installation and dismantling of the sealing circuit allows you to independently insulate the room without resorting to the help of specialists. Thanks to detailed instructions on the installation of threshold profiles in the lower part of the leaf of a wooden front door, any owner will cope with this task.
Tubular-type materials made of rubber, silicone or rubber are attached to the base with a moisture and frost-resistant sealant or glue. Criteria for choosing seals for the entrance group:
- E-shaped profile (marking "C" or "K") - to eliminate gaps up to 3 mm;
- P-shaped (marking "V") - to cover gaps, 3-5 mm wide;
- D-shaped profile (marking "O") - to eliminate wide gaps, with a width of 5 mm.
How to seal a wooden door
The material that seals the entrance wooden door must be resilient and elastic. If it does not have a self-adhesive backing, installation will require silicone sealant, glue gun or liquid nails. In addition to them, you will need the following materials and tools:
- scissors or stationery knife;
- White Spirit;
- clean dry rag.
Operating procedure
- Ribbon cutting.
- Base degreasing.
- Tape sticker.
Installation and sealing
For the correct installation of the seal, it is necessary to accurately measure the length of the tapes that will be pasted over the ends of the wooden door leaf. This can be done in two ways:
- attaching the tape to the end and cutting it off in the right place;
- using a tape measure, having previously measured the length of the butt and measuring the same distance on the tape.
If the gaps are wide, more than 5 mm, sealing materials can not be cut into pieces, but immediately glued to the base. It must be free from dust, dirt and grease and oils. For this purpose, white spirit and a clean, dry rag are used. Self-adhesive seals are attached by pressing them to the wooden sheet and gradually, as they move forward, removing the protective layer. Before mounting materials without an adhesive base, a fixing composition is applied in the right places: silicone sealant or glue. Similarly, the insulation of the interior door leaf is performed.
Door frame mounting
If wooden door leaf has a relief surface, it is more convenient to perform insulation from the side of the box. In this case, the door can be removed from the hinges, having previously marked with a pencil the places where the heat-insulating tapes are pasted. Before the beginning installation work all sides of the wooden door frame are cleaned and degreased with white spirit. After that, sealing materials are glued in a convenient way.
In the insulation of a wooden door, the most important thing is to choose the right thickness of the tape. In this case, you can count on high-quality sound and heat insulation.
If suddenly a feeling of a draft appeared in a house or apartment, or street or porch smells began to be felt, then this indicates that the door has ceased to close tightly. To resolve this issue on your own You can buy door seals.
Entrance doors often frustrate their owners by failing to cope with their main task - keeping the heat in the room. Doors from the inside can be filled with insulation, but if they do not fit snugly against the door frame, then they are ineffective and play a minimal role in maintaining the internal microclimate.
What are gaskets for?
Self-adhesive door seal. Material installation
On modern metal and plastic doors manufacturers install a special seal that can last from several months to several years, depending on the cost, the more expensive the door, the better the seal. Cheap exterior doors have poor quality plastic seals which soon fall into disrepair.
It is not difficult to install a self-adhesive door seal for doors on your own - it is important to choose the right one required thickness material and its profile. To do this, you can apply the method used by our fathers and grandfathers: wrap a piece of plasticine in polyethylene, put it in a slot and close the door tightly. After opening the door, the approximate thickness of the future seal will be obtained with the doorway closed.
The door seal for doors is attached quite simply: before installing the material, it is necessary to degrease the attachment point, then gradually remove it from the material protective film from the sticky side and tightly pressed against the door fold. Some manufacturers save on glue for a sticky surface, and such a sealant soon begins to lag behind the door. To correct this situation, you can use quick-drying glue, for example, "Moment" or "Second".
Conclusion
Summing up all of the above, we come to the conclusion that a door seal is the tool that can save a house or apartment from the penetration of foreign sounds, smells and drafts from the outside. This is especially true for cheap doors, which are often sold without a seal or on which there is a cheap sealing material that quickly becomes unusable.
Seals vary in quality and appearance. Each of them is designed to close door gaps of different widths. Therefore, before you should decide on his profile, so that later you do not have to reinstall it again.
Seals come from different materials A: rubber, foam rubber, plastic and so on. The most common are rubber, as they are more durable, better and more reliable. They are easy to install on doors and door jambs and just as easy to remove. The most important thing to remember: before installing the material, it is necessary to remove debris, dust and degrease the surface where the seal will be glued with a solvent or alcohol. Otherwise, it will definitely peel off during operation, and you will have to buy a new one.
Experts also advise not to pursue colored sealants, since due to the color pigment added to the material, it loses its qualities under the influence of weather conditions.
