Aluminum heating radiators how to disassemble the sections. How to disassemble a cast-iron heating radiator, assembling the device

Aluminum heating radiators - general information and characteristics

In the 80s of the twentieth century, a model was introduced to the world market aluminum radiator heating. Compared with such a familiar product as cast iron batteries, this type of heating device had a number of serious advantages, as a result of which it quickly gained popularity among consumers. Indeed, the aluminum heating radiator has a number of characteristics, because of which it is considered one of the most convenient heating devices. Let's take a closer look at these features:

1. Aluminum is a material with excellent thermal conductivity, as a result of which products made from it can be used in systems with an unstable coolant pressure. Half of the heat is transferred by radiation, half by thermal convection;
2. Light weight - this simplifies the installation of this type of device, as well as their transportation and maintenance;
3. Strength - aluminum heating radiators withstand pressure of 16 atmospheres;
4. Low cost - devices of this type are much lower than similar bimetallic or copper products;
5. Possibility of regulation;
6. Aesthetic appearance.

Thanks to all these characteristics, aluminum radiators quickly conquered the market and became widely used for space heating.

However, along with the advantages, these devices have a number of significant disadvantages:

1. Aluminum is a chemically active metal and has insufficient resistance to corrosion;
2. In prefabricated models, it is impossible to use any other coolant, except for water with strictly maintained acid-base characteristics;
3. Aluminum radiators are prone to airing. Therefore, it is periodically necessary to bleed air from the system;
4. The threaded connection in such models is a weak point. In case of hydraulic shock, the tightness of the product may be violated.

Aluminum batteries are available in two types:

• solid;
• prefabricated, consisting of separate sections. If desired, they can be increased - add additional sections, or vice versa remove them.

Disassembly of aluminum radiators

Dismantling an aluminum heating radiator is required, as a rule, in cases where:

1. We are going to assemble new system heating;
2. It is necessary to increase the battery or remove extra sections;
3. Leakage must be repaired or seals must be replaced.

In order to disassemble the product, we need a set of wrenches, a screwdriver and a radiator wrench.

The first step is to remove the battery from its attachment point. To do this, perform the following steps:

1. We stop the circulation of water in the system and relieve pressure;
2. Make sure the device is cool and hot water inside it will not scald us, spilling out;
3. We find a threaded connection in the place where the hose is attached to the battery pipe by means of a coupling. Choosing the right size wrench- with its help it is necessary to unwind this connection;
4. We shift the coupling along the pipe, remove the device and put it on a specially laid floor polyethylene film. Some water may remain inside - it should be drained. We put the radiator front side up;
5. We take out the special filter and immediately wash it. Otherwise, the dirt on it may dry out to such an extent that it will be impossible to clean it. In this case, you will have to buy a new filter - reusing the old one will be impossible.

The next step will be to disassemble the battery itself into separate sections. You should know that the battery sections are connected to each other using nipple nuts - these are empty nuts inside with external threads on both sides and grooves for mounting inside. For this purpose, we use a radiator wrench specially designed to work with nipple nuts. If necessary, you can make it yourself. This is a spatula key with serifs on the shaft - the distance between them corresponds to . That is, referring to how many serifs the key went inside, we can find out which nipple-nut we are twisting in this moment.

Having placed the blade in the grooves of the corresponding nipple-nut in the hole on top, we make a couple of turns counterclockwise. Then we take out the key, insert it into the hole from below into the grooves of the corresponding nipple-nut and also turn it a couple of turns. Then we return the key to the upper nut and repeat everything until the sections are separated.

Unscrewing the nipple nuts in this way is necessary to avoid distortion. In order to be able to apply the necessary force, there is a through slot at the end of the key, into which, if necessary, we insert a metal rod as a lever.

After we managed to disassemble the radiator, we clean it inside, change gaskets and seals. If there is a need to increase the battery, you need to add required amount sections.

If it is necessary to eliminate the leak, we prepare a special solution - in epoxy resin you need to add bronze powder and mix thoroughly. We clean the damaged area with a cable, after which we process it with the prepared composition and wait 30-60 minutes until it dries completely. When working with this composition, everything should be done so quickly as to prevent it from drying out ahead of time.

After performing all the necessary maintenance and troubleshooting of the product, it is necessary to assemble the battery and install it.

Assembly of aluminum radiators

The sequence of actions when assembling an aluminum radiator:

1. In order to assemble the battery back, place it on a flat surface. We carefully examine all threaded connections for cracks and chips;
2. We clean each connection from litter and contaminants. If we want to add new parts, we need to clean the ends to a shine. Even the manufacturer's paint is removed - at the joints it will be a significant hindrance, causing premature leakage of the coolant. For cleaning we use sandpaper with very fine grain, so as not to leave scratches on the surface, which can also cause a leak;
3. We degrease the ends with gasoline. Wash pads in soapy water. Degreasing is mandatory in systems where antifreeze is used rather than plain water. They have a high rate of fluidity and can penetrate into the smallest irregularities;
4. Now we can start connecting the sections. We put paronite seals on the nipple-nut and attach them on both sides of the product section. We place the key hole on top and turn a couple of times without using the lever. Then, in the same way, we make a couple of turns of the nipple-nut in the lower hole. We do this until the key stops turning, and we reach it with the help of a lever. We do not apply much effort - aluminum is a soft metal and it is very easy to damage the thread. According to this scheme, we assemble the entire product;
5. We put a plug on an unused hole, and on the other hand we attach the Mayevsky crane - it serves to bleed excess air from the system. After that, we install the radiator and connect it to the system. We make sure that the coupling hermetically connects the product to the water supply hose. After that, we can supply water to the system, observing if there are any leaks of the coolant somewhere.

Conclusion

So, we were able to make sure that disassembling and then assembling an aluminum heating battery is not very difficult. All operations should be carried out very carefully - aluminum is a very soft metal and it is very easy to damage it. To perform the work, no special construction skills are needed - only a set of simple tools, attentiveness and accuracy. Thus, if the product needs maintenance or if you need to add a certain number of sections, you will be able to cope with this task on your own.

The need to disassemble heating radiators arises in cases where they began to leak, one of the ribs cracked or burst. In old buildings, when there was no question of energy saving yet, radiators were installed in which there were more fins than required, so the extra fins must be removed.

Heating radiator device.

Before disassembling heating radiators, regardless of their type, you should make sure that no water is supplied to the pipes. It is advisable to work together.

If the heating system is mounted on polypropylene or metal-plastic pipes, couplings are disassembled.

If the heating system is installed from steel pipes, you need to try to unwind the surges at the entrance and exit of the sections. If it doesn’t work out, as it often happens in apartments of an old building, the spurs need to be cut off with a grinder or autogenous.

It remains to remove the battery from the hooks with which it is attached to the wall, and put it on a flat surface.

Disassembly of cast iron radiators

Dismantling cast-iron radiators sometimes becomes a very time-consuming process, but necessary.

Scheme of disassembling cast-iron heating radiators: a - capturing the threads of sections by nipples by 2-3 threads; b - turning the nipples and joining the sections; in - connection of the third section; g - grouping of two radiators; 1 - section; 2 - nipple; 3 - gasket; 4 - short radiator key; 5 - crowbar; 6 - a long radiator key.

A new or old radiator is placed on a level place. At least on one side, you need to remove the usual futors or deaf ones - plugs. On different sections of radiators, they can be left-handed or right-handed. Usually, cast iron fittings have a right-hand thread, plugs have a left-hand thread. If there are no disassembly skills, and there is a free section, it is better to find out what kind of thread this is and in which direction the key should be rotated before applying force. If the thread is left-handed, when disassembling cast-iron batteries, you need to rotate the key clockwise.

As with unscrewing any nuts, you first need to “break” the futors from their place, i.e. turn them a quarter of a turn on both sides of the battery. Then the futors are unscrewed so that a gap of several millimeters is formed between the sections. If you release the futorki more, the whole structure will begin to bend under its own weight and due to the applied efforts. In this case, the thread may jam. To prevent this from happening, an assistant must stand on the disassembled battery, which will prevent bending with its weight.

Usually, dismantling of old heating radiators is difficult because the fittings and sections are “boiled”. In order to disassemble such a battery, you will have to use an autogen or a blowtorch. The junction is heated in a circular motion. As soon as it is warm enough, the futorki are twisted out. If it was not possible to unscrew the first time, the actions are repeated.

If there is not enough strength to disassemble the battery, you need to increase the length of the key. An ordinary pipe is used, which serves as a lever.

Similarly, built-in nipples for airing cast-iron radiators are unscrewed.

If it was not possible to disassemble the cast-iron battery using the considered methods, it remains to cut it with a grinder or autogenous or smash it in a supine position with a sledgehammer. You need to carefully break or cut one section. After this operation, the adhesion between the sections may loosen, the battery can be disassembled, the remaining sections can be saved.

The use of a “liquid key” or WD liquid does not give an effect, since in old cast-iron batteries the futors were sealed with linen and paint, and liquids would not get on the threads.

Disassembly of aluminum heating radiators

Scheme of aluminum heating radiators.

Aluminum or bimetallic heating radiators are disassembled similarly to cast iron ones, but there are slight differences:

heatmonster.ru

How to disassemble a heating radiator on your own?

You will need:

• aluminum radiator
• Remove radiator
• Drain the water from the radiator
• Disassemble the radiator

Aluminum radiators immediately liked their appearance and ease of installation. Their high heat output allows you to heat an apartment or house immediately after turning on the boiler. But practice has shown that they quickly fail due to the oxidation of aluminum with water. But what if one section leaked in the middle heating season, and the family budget is not designed for an urgent replacement of batteries? There is only one way out - to eliminate the leak.

Before removing the heating radiator, drain all water from the heating system. Then the radiator is unscrewed and water is poured out of it. The radiator is recommended to be flushed warm water from the inside, lightly tapping each section with a rubber mallet. A lot of scale and rust will fly out. Then it is carefully reviewed. In places of leaks, swelling of the paint is visible. If you poke a nail in these places, you can find a hole.

It is worth mentioning that at home aluminum is difficult to weld, this can only be done by a specialist. Before you close the radiator, you should think about ways to fix the leak. Aluminum is welded with argon. Argon-arc welding is expensive, sometimes up to 300 rubles per 1 cm. Argon does not allow aluminum to burn, unlike conventional welding. It is easier to unscrew the damaged section and replace it with a new one. One section costs around 400 rubles. You will need new clamps and gaskets.

If the heating system is made of polypropylene, then you can not change the section to a new one, but simply remove it. Pipes are easy to build using pieces polypropylene pipe or a barrel. The question arises, how to disassemble the heating radiator on your own? The radiator is placed on a flat surface, preferably on the floor, and they begin to disassemble it. Sections can turn away with great difficulty. It is better if the assistant gets on the battery. When the desired section is unscrewed, we screw a new one in its place.

How to choose heating radiators. With a ceiling height of up to 2.7 meters, one section is taken for every 2 m2 plus 20-30% of the stock. So, for a room with an area of ​​16 m2, you need 8 sections plus 2 more sections, for a total of 10. And for a room with an area of ​​30 m2, you need two radiators of 10 sections, a total of 20 (15 sections plus a margin for an equal account of 5 sections).

The service life of aluminum radiators is short, about 4-5 years. After fixing one leak, other sections may leak within a month. Before you change heating radiators, you need to decide whether to buy aluminum again or leave your choice on bimetallic ones. The second option will cost more, but will quickly pay for itself, the battery life is up to 20-25 years.

www.uznay-kak.ru

How to disassemble the radiator: preparing tools, disconnecting and disassembling the battery

Sometimes situations arise that require the immediate dismantling of the heating radiator. Of course, you can call professional plumbers to perform such an operation, but this will take time and financial costs. In this article, we will look at how to disassemble the battery yourself.

Do-it-yourself disassembly of a heating radiator

Step-by-step description of dismantling works

A few words about when you may need to disassemble the heating battery:

• In case of replacing the old radiator with a new one, having greater performance and the best look.
• If you need to add additional sections for the battery.
• If it is necessary to replace a separate section or gasket that has leaked.

The instruction begins with the preparation of the necessary tools:

Step #1: Preparing the Tools

Photo of a nipple wrench

Sample gas key

Tip: taking into account the fact that it is very rarely needed on the farm, and its price is not the lowest, it is recommended not to buy a nipple wrench, but to rent it. This will save the family budget.

Step #2: Disconnecting the Battery

Before disassembling an aluminum or cast iron radiator, it must be disconnected from the heating system. To do this, it is imperative to turn off the heating and drain the water from the riser, otherwise you will simply flood the room and get burned.

Tip: it is recommended to cover the floor under the battery with a film, rags, or at least newspapers before starting dismantling to avoid getting any liquid residue on it, which may be in the circuit even after draining the riser.

1. Polypropylene pipes. In this case union connection, as a rule, twisted with bare hands, without causing any difficulties.
2. Steel new. With some effort, you will most likely be able to spin the battery inlet and outlet horns with a gas wrench.

Disconnection of new steel pipes

1. Old steel or cast iron pipes. First we try by removing the paint from the docking area blowtorch And wire brush, we try to unwind the connection as described in the previous version. But in systems that have worked for a long time, most often this does not give a result, and then we simply cut off the drive with a “grinder” or autogenous.

Cutting old sgons using a "grinder"

After disconnecting the battery from the pipes, we remove it from the hooks and lay it on a flat plane.

Step 3: Radiator Disassembly

Battery section disconnect diagram

The battery can be cast iron, aluminum or bimetallic.

The most difficult option for parsing is the first of the listed ones, and we will start with it:

1. How to disassemble cast iron radiator heating on your own:

• Carefully, we check the threading on the fittings or plugs, which can be either left or right.
• We insert the nipple wrench inside, we increase its torque with the help of a piece of pipe or a crowbar.
• We tear off the thread by scrolling the tool a quarter of a turn, first at the top, and then at the bottom.
• Then we also alternately continue to unscrew the nipples so that the radiator does not warp.
• The main problem with old batteries is that the futors can get stuck in the course of many years of operation and not give in to the key. In this case, the junction must be heated in a circular motion with a blowtorch, and then again try to unscrew the nipple. The procedure is repeated until the thread yields. If it still doesn’t work out, then you have to cut it with an autogenous.

Dismantled old cast-iron radiator

1. Let's find out how to disassemble a bimetallic or aluminum radiator? The procedure is almost the same as described above, but has several differences:

• A smaller nipple wrench is used.
• So much effort is not required when unscrewing the nipples.
• Plugs and futurok are marked with the direction of the thread in the form of the letters S and D, where the first indicates the left stroke, and the second - the right.
• The metal spacers between the sections are wiped, polished and stored until the next battery assembly.

Disassembly of the aluminum battery

After completing the described tasks, you can replace the leaking part, add a section, or even install a new radiator in place of the old one.

Conclusion

Dismantling the heating battery is quite doable on our own. The greatest difficulty can be the unwinding of old cast-iron models, in which the joints, as a rule, become attached over many years of service. Then you have to use a blowtorch and make more physical effort. With new aluminum and bimetallic radiators, there are no such problems, and they are easily dismantled.

Separation of a bimetallic battery into sections

The video in this article will introduce you to additional materials, which are directly related to the topic outlined. Be careful and attentive, and you will succeed.

Page 2

Painting heating radiators performs not only an aesthetic function. Layer finishing materials applied on metal surface, protects it from corrosion, extending the life of the radiator.

In our article, we will tell you how to properly perform all the preparatory operations, as well as what you need to keep in mind when painting with your own hands.

Decorative coating protects the surface from corrosion

Why do you need battery coloring?

If standard cast-iron or steel radiators are installed in your house, then the layer of finishing materials applied to their surface must be periodically updated.

The need for such work is due to the following considerations:

Do not leave the radiator in this state!

• First, sooner or later the paint wears out and needs to be reapplied. At the same time, the finish makes it possible to partially compensate for the aesthetic shortcomings of radiators, which (for the most part, this is true for older models, but also modern designs not far from them) are by no means distinguished by their exquisite design.
• Secondly, painting the surface protects it from moisture and other factors, which leads to a decrease in the intensity of corrosion processes. And if this is less relevant for cast iron, then steel radiator with an unpainted surface rusts very quickly.

Where the paint has peeled off, the metal begins to rust.

• Third, when using suitable formulations the heat transfer of the battery, if reduced, is insignificant. That is why, by painting the radiators with a specialized pigment, we will not damage the microclimate in the room.

Note! But copper batteries do not cast color. On the one hand, polished copper already looks good enough, but on the other hand, it does not rust, therefore it does not require additional protection.

In addition, high heat dissipation copper pipes when painting will be reduced quite significantly.

As you can see, it is highly desirable to subject steel and cast iron products to such processing at least once every few years. With the right approach, this task will not take much time, so it is quite possible to cope on your own, without the involvement of third-party specialists.

Coloring technology

Paint selection

At industrial production battery surface treatment is carried out by applying powder pigments in special chamber. This technology is very effective, since it ensures maximum adhesion of the paint layer to the base, but it is impossible to implement it on your own without the appropriate equipment.

That is why radiators are usually painted either with a brush or with a spray gun using special liquid formulations.

Alkyd specialized composition

For processing similar products elastic heat-resistant pigments with good thermal conductivity are used:

Advice! To maximize the speed of the finishing process, you can take car enamel in aerosol can.

The only disadvantage of this solution is the high price, but the costs will be significant only if you have to paint several dozen radiators.

Paintable area calculator

Before buying a pigment, you need to decide on the amount of paint, which depends on the area of ​​​​the surface to be treated. It is most convenient to determine the area of ​​heating radiators for painting using special programs: just enter the type of batteries and their number in the appropriate fields, and the algorithm will give us the required number.

Preparation

In order for the paint to lay flat and hold firmly, the surfaces must be carefully prepared.

Instructions for the implementation of preparatory activities will be as follows:

• All work is carried out with the batteries disconnected. Applying paint to a working radiator is pointless: heat base will not provide a normal drying mode, and the pigment will begin to peel off very quickly.

Pipes also need to be prepared

Advice! Ideally, the radiator should be removed and thoroughly tapped with a mallet. So we're withdrawing old paint make it easier, and we will knock off internal deposits from the walls.

Then they can be poured out through the holes for connecting the heating pipe.

• Be sure to remove the old paint. To do this, we either use special washes, or we heat the surfaces with a building hair dryer and clean off the layer paintwork materials spatula.
• After removing the paint, sand the surfaces. We carry out roughing with the help of a grinder (a brushing nozzle is used), and then once again we pass along the planes with a metal brush.

Sanding the surface with a grinder

After that, degrease all surfaces. We should get a metal battery without traces of old pigment and rust - so we will paint it.

Coloring and drying

Painting cast iron radiators is done as follows:

We cover the walls and floor with paper, as shown in the photo.

• If a pigment is used in an aerosol can or an airbrush, then we paste old newspapers on the wall behind the radiator to prevent drops from falling on the finish. When painting with a brush, it is enough to cover the floor directly under the battery.

Advice! It is advisable to take at least two brushes: wide - for processing the main surfaces of the sections, and narrow - for painting hard-to-reach places between the ribs.

• The first layer is applied with a composition diluted approximately 1/4. This layer will act as a primer.
• We let the primer coat dry for 24 hours, after which we apply a second coat, now with paint of normal density. Carefully paint over all areas, trying not to leave empty seats– this is where the battery will begin to rust in the first place.

Applying paint with a brush

• We dry the radiator again during the day. Only after the paint is completely polymerized, you can turn on the heating.

Conclusion

Painting radiators and heating pipes does not require us to have complex tools or specific skills. If you know simple rules(and for this it is enough to read the above recommendations and watch the video in this article), then the work will not take much time, and the result will be quite worthy.

Page 3

What is it - vacuum radiators? How are they arranged? What ensures their unsurpassed efficiency and economy, which is promised to a potential buyer by numerous sellers? And, most importantly, to what extent do the advertising statements of manufacturers and sellers correspond to reality? Let's figure it out.

Our hero.

What it is

Device

How is this heating device arranged? In the version intended for water heating systems, it is a sealed container of complex shape, through which (through the lower manifold) a heating pipe with a heat carrier passes. The radiator is fully compatible with any of its types; connection is also quite standard.

The pressure inside the container, although far from the vacuum of space, is noticeably lower than atmospheric pressure. Part of the volume of the device is filled with its own volatile coolant, which does not come into contact with the external circuit in any way (according to the assurances of the sellers - some kind of lithium-bromide liquid, an exact description of the composition of which is not given).

However: some manufacturers mention the possibility of using ethanol (ethyl alcohol) as a working fluid.

Vacuum cooler device.

Principle of operation

The principle of operation of vacuum heating radiators, according to the assurances of all the same manufacturers and sellers, is reduced to the transfer of heat by a volatile coolant under rarefaction conditions:

• When heated to 35C, lithium bromide liquid boils and actively evaporates;
• Having a sufficiently high heat capacity, it transfers heat to the upper part of the heater, providing the fastest (in 1-2 minutes) and uniform heating;
• In the future, due to the special properties of the liquid, it retains a gaseous state for a long time, which prevents the device from cooling down and saves thermal energy.

A special case: electric vacuum radiators differ from conventional ones designed for operation in water heating circuits by the presence of their own heating element in the lower manifold. Thanks to this feature, the heater is connected only to the outlet, which greatly simplifies installation.

The device is equipped with its own heating element.

Sample study

We will take as a sample the lineup quite specific company Energy Eco. Vacuum radiators produced by it are positioned as follows:

A simple calculation shows that one section is able to provide sufficient heat transfer to heat 4.5 m2 of a living space.

According to the assurances of the seller, this device is able to heat a two-room apartment.

Reference: according to Soviet SNiP, thermal power for calculating heating systems, it is taken equal to 100 watts per 1 m2. In modern energy efficient houses thanks to comprehensive measures to reduce heat leakage, it can be reduced to 60 watts / m2.

Thus, one section of the radiator should provide heat transfer of at least 4.5 * 60 = 270 watts.

In the description of the technical characteristics of heaters, the manufacturer puts all the dots over the "i":

Once again: 169 watts, and not 270 at all. As the notorious character of the unforgettable Mikhail Afanasyevich said: “Congratulations, citizen, you are lying.”

Focuses and their exposure

If we already remembered Bulgakov, it would be logical to remind the reader of one more quote: "We are interested in both tricks and their exposure."

• Quick access to the operating mode: heating of the room starts immediately after the heater reaches 35C. Holy truth - if the temperature in the room is below 35C. This is true for any two objects with different temperatures. Thermodynamics, you know.

At the boundary of media with different temperatures, there is always a transfer of thermal energy.

• Vacuum radiators do not suffer from air locks. This is so because there are no staples in the device where air can accumulate. But the circuit as a whole may well have them, which reduces this dubious advantage to nothing.
• These heaters do not suffer from slagging of pipes and corrosion. Excuse me, but where does slagging come from in an autonomous system with a limited amount of water? The argument about corrosion is also demagogy: oxygen, which causes rust, in filled and closed system there's just nowhere to go.
• Small amount of coolant. This parameter only affects the thermal inertia of the circuit: with a small amount of coolant, it heats up quickly and cools down quickly. When filling a water heating system, the volume of water in it is only of speculative interest.
• Durability. Excuse me, but how can a device with a 1.5 mm wall of carbon steel be more durable than a pipe with a 2.5 mm wall of the same steel? Polypropylene and metal-plastic also seem to have a service life comparable to the duration of a human life ... In general, again demagogy.

The oldest cast iron radiators are over a century old, and their functionality is no different from newer appliances.

• Low hydraulic resistance. Fact: a vacuum radiator will create a slightly lower resistance to the flow of the coolant of the main circuit compared to cast iron or aluminum and will save on work circulation pump. Taking into account the fact that the price of the device is 3-4 times higher than that of a conventional aluminum radiator, the payback period for the difference in cost can be estimated at about 400 - 500 years: the difference in the power consumed by the pump will be calculated in hundredths of a percent.

Postulate: Vacuum heaters are exceptionally economical. Savings compared to traditional radiators in different versions of advertising varies from 30 to ... 400%.

Dear reader, secondary education in the Soviet, and now - the Russian education system is mandatory. The school physics course includes the study of the law of conservation of energy.

If we slightly clarify and paraphrase the wording of Sir Isaac Newton, in relation to our case, it will take the following form:

1. The final form of any energy transformation is mechanical work (that is, the movement of mass against the gravitational vector) or heating of the medium.

Sir Isaac is saddened by the current level of education.

1. Since our heater does not raise anything anywhere, all the energy received by it is completely converted into heating.

We emphasize: this statement is true for any heating device, regardless of its design. The efficiency is always 100%: having taken away 500 watts of heat from the coolant, the battery will completely dissipate them in environment regardless of their design.

Sarcastic Notes

The author will allow himself a few more comments on the device and the advertised advantages of vacuum radiators. The principle of their operation is completely identical to the so-called heat pipe - a pipe with a volatile coolant.

Evaporating in the heated part of the sealed container and condensing at its colder end, it provides efficient heat transfer. The first heat pipes began to be used in the 18th century, at the same time as the first steam engines.

One of the problems with tubes is the return of coolant condensate to the heating zone. In a more primitive version, with a vacuum radiator as a tracing paper, the liquid flowed down by gravity - which is what we observe in the design under study. In 1942, a capillary tube was patented that can work in any position.

This design is over a century old.

A modified version of the invention is a capillary heat pipe.

By the way: the statement that the coolant retains its gaseous state after heating the radiator and continues to heat it is a first-class lie. It continuously condenses in the upper collector and flows down by gravity.

Ammonia, ethanol and ... water are used as a heat carrier in a heat pipe, which can evaporate at low temperatures under reduced pressure.

The only advantage of a heat pipe is its high thermal conductivity throughout its entire volume. She has no other magical properties.

Installation

Is it difficult to install a vacuum heating radiator with your own hands, if you still liked the idea of ​​\u200b\u200bthis device?

Installation instructions are absolutely standard.

1. The device is hung on brackets in a horizontal position.
2. Pipes are supplied to it, corresponding to the nominal diameter of the threads and equipped with shut-off valves, chokes or a thermal head. Wiring diagram - bottom to bottom.

The device in the photo is equipped with a pair of chokes.

1. American women are used to connect the radiator to the valves.

Conclusion

We hope that our miniature critical review has helped the reader to recover from excessive trust in advertising. To learn more about what vacuum radiators are and how they work, the video in this article will allow. Good luck!

o-trubah.ru

Aluminum radiators

The progress of heating systems has affected not only the heat carrier heating devices, but also the systems themselves, including radiators.

If until recently everyone had cast-iron batteries in their homes, now they are being successfully replaced with bimetallic or aluminum radiators.

Aluminum batteries - which are better?

In order to decide which aluminum batteries from a wide range of these products are better, you first need to understand their differences.

At the moment, radiators are produced according to two technologies, these are:

1. Extrusion. As a result of using this method, aluminum parts are extruded under great pressure, and the joints of the individual components are glued with a special composite adhesive.

2. Foundry. A more traditional method, in which sections of the radiators are cast in special molds, and the joints are connected by welding.

Of course, the casting method, and the order is more reliable compared to batteries manufactured by extrusion, if only because welding at the joints holds an order of magnitude better than glue.

On the other hand, radiators made by extrusion are much cheaper. In addition to this difference, radiators also differ in the integrity parameter.

Batteries can be sectional and consist of separate parts, the connection of which must be made by welding.

More reliable are solid radiator panels without mechanical connections. Wanting to get reliable aluminum radiators, it is better to opt for cast one-piece battery models.

Specifications of aluminum batteries

The great demand for aluminum radiators is determined by technical and physical characteristics, as well as the advantages of both the metal itself and the radiator as a whole.

1. Unlike most other metals, aluminum has excellent thermal conductivity and heat dissipation, respectively, the radiator heats up an order of magnitude faster and less coolant is spent.

This is very important for autonomous systems heating, as it can significantly reduce the cost of energy consumption for the heating boiler.

2. Aluminum is practically not subject to corrosion, especially if it is cleaned by anodizing. Such radiators can withstand very high pressure and not collapse long term.

As for the parameters and dimensions of the radiator, it directly depends on the chosen model and the number of sections.

On average, the distance between the upper and lower tubes, through which the coolant circulates, ranges from 200-800 mm.

How to disassemble an aluminum heating battery?

In some cases, it is necessary to disassemble the aluminum heating radiator, for example, in order to build up additional sections, to flush it, or to replace a failed battery cell.

Ideally, it is better to entrust the disassembly of the battery to a professional, but if you have to do it yourself, you need to prepare the appropriate tool.

In addition to the usual pliers, a hammer and other standard tools, you should purchase or borrow a nipple wrench. You can buy it in almost any store specializing in plumbing and everything connected with it.

The nipple wrench allows you to separate one section of the battery from another. In order for the battery sections to unscrew more easily, it is necessary to loosen the nipples alternately in the upper and lower tubes.

To begin with, loosen the top nut a few turns, then the bottom nut, and then return to the top nut again and so on alternately until they are completely unscrewed.

From the author: Hello friends! The modern market offers a huge number various radiators heating. They compare favorably with those clumsy products that were previously installed in all apartment buildings. Moreover, the difference lies not only in appearance but also in functionality and ease of use.

Of course, for ease of use, you need to know at least basic information about batteries - for example, how to disassemble a bimetallic heating radiator, and then reassemble it. This procedure is necessary in two cases.

The first is to increase the number of sections. If you don't have enough heat given off by the battery, you can simply disassemble it, insert a couple of additional segments and enjoy. comfortable temperature in an apartment or house.

The second case is the need for repair work. Even the most quality radiator not immune to breakage. Moreover, the most frequent cases are not the consequences of design flaws, but external mechanical action. For example, radiators often suffer from active children's games.

In any case, the problem is solved quite simply. To do this, you will need a minimum set of tools, your hands and a small amount of time.

Radiator design

Before disassembly bimetal radiator with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with the design of the equipment. In principle, here we can immediately talk about another variety, namely, about aluminum batteries. They are made on the same principle as bimetallic ones, so the disassembly process is almost the same.

Aluminum, bimetallic, cast iron radiators are assembled according to the same principle: the sections in the upper and lower parts are interconnected by nipple nuts. Nipple nuts are hollow ring nuts with external threads. Threaded on both ends. Inside each, special grooves are made. During assembly and disassembly, a key is inserted into them, by rotating which the contraction or separation (depending on the direction of rotation) of both sections occurs. Sealing is provided by a gasket made of paronite or silicone, put on top of the nut.

As a rule, it is necessary to disassemble and assemble heating batteries in the following cases:

Disassembly of aluminum and bimetal radiator

Before disassembling the heating battery, prepare the necessary tools.

A nipple wrench is used as the main tool (can be rented at a specialized store for little money). It is a rod about 700 mm long. On the one hand, a key head with a size of 24x40 mm is welded to it, and on the other, it is made through hole. You can insert a metal bar into it. With it, it will be easier to scroll the nut.

This is the main tool that is used when assembling / disassembling heating radiators.

Several notches are applied on the surface of the key. The distance between them corresponds to the width of the radiator section. By inserting the key inside the battery, and counting the number of notches, you can easily find the nipple of the desired section.

Before disassembling the heating battery, it is necessary to orient with the direction of rotation of the key. The radiator is laid on a flat horizontal surface with the front side up. The right side will be a right hand thread and the left side will be a left hand thread. In order not to get confused, you can do it easier: we take the nut and bait alternately on the right and left, and then we conclude in which direction to turn the key. This is important because the threads are easy to break and then you need to buy two new sections. Import manufacturers on the plugs and fittings on the front side of the section, the following designation for the thread is made: D-right, S-left.

Let's say you need to unscrew one section on the right. To do this, insert the key with a “spatula” into the upper hole to the desired place, fix it in the groove of the nipple-nut and, turning the key counterclockwise with force, “tear” it off. This is where a bar inserted into the ring on the key may be needed: a decent effort is required.

We make two full turns and rearrange the key to the bottom of the radiator. We repeat the operation by rotating the key in the same direction. We unscrew the nipple by 2 turns here. Again we take out the key and repeat the procedure for the upper part. So alternately unscrew the section completely. This is done so that there are no distortions.

How to assemble an aluminum radiator

Assemble in reverse order. We place the sections on a flat surface (a table of suitable size or simply put it on the floor). If the radiator is not new, unscrew the end cap and Mayevsky's tap.

Before installation, you should carefully examine the threads and grooves, they must be of high quality, without chips and drops. On the mounted section for the sample, we “drive” the thread by screwing in and unscrewing the nipple. Here you need to pay attention to the fact that before the carving, under a layer of factory paint, there may be a gasket. Rub the end slightly with fine sandpaper, if it is found there, then it must be carefully cut with a knife with a sharp blade.

Before adding sections of the heating radiator, be sure to clean the ends to smooth surface. We even remove factory paint. At the ends of the radiators, it is not needed, but will only contribute to the early manifestation of leaks. Sooner or later, coolant will begin to seep under the paint. In the case of antifreeze liquids, this will happen very soon, if water is used in the system, then not very much, but it will definitely happen. And then the coolant will begin to leak between the sections, although the gaskets are still in perfect condition. And the thing is that the paint on the ends exfoliated or corroded it, microcracks appeared. So be sure to clean the ends to bare metal, but use fine sandpaper so that the metal surface is smooth and without scratches. This ensures that the system operates without leaks in the radiators.

For better tightness, the ends then need to be degreased (you can use gasoline). Gaskets are also degreased, but they need to be washed with ordinary soapy water. For a system that will be filled with water, degreasing is an optional procedure, but for systems that will operate on antifreeze, it must be carried out. Antifreezes have a high fluidity and seep into the smallest pores. After everything is dry, we begin to assemble aluminum radiators.

Then we bait both nipple nuts half a turn. Heat-resistant paronite (silicone) gaskets are put on top of the nipple to seal the joints. Now we take the section that needs to be screwed on and attach it tightly to the nuts, checking the tightness of their fit. Next, insert the key into the upper hole and twist 1-2 turns. In this case, we do not use the lever yet. We turn our hands. Then we do the same operation in the lower hole. Repeat several times, alternately tightening both nuts a few turns.

We twist as much as we can. Only after manual tightening can the lever be used. This must be done in two steps on each nipple. It is better not to apply excessive force during the final tightening of the nipples, since you can easily strip the thread: aluminum is a soft metal, do not forget.

If the section is fully assembled, we screw a plug onto the unused holes on one side, and on the other, a Mayevsky tap (to bleed air from the system). Now you know how to assemble sections of a heating radiator and, if necessary, you can grow several sections.

Disassembly of cast iron radiators

The most common cast-iron radiators MC140. During their operation, and this is in some cases 30 or more years, they showed themselves only from the best side:

• accumulates heat;
• resistant to poor quality coolant;
• ease of maintenance;
• reliable and have long term service (from 10 years and above)

How to disassemble this grandfather? And it’s very simple, because structurally all radiators are assembled according to the same principle: with the help of nipple nuts and gaskets for tightness. True, in those ancient times, tow with paint was wound on the nut and there was a rubber gasket.

There are no problems with disassembling a new radiator. But with the old one you have to tinker:

• over time, the joint between the sections "sticks";
• internal protrusions for the key corrode under the action of the coolant.

That is why it is rather problematic to disassemble the old "cast iron".

Another difficulty in working with cast iron is its heavy weight. The mass of one "clean" section is 7.5 kg. The battery of 10 sections weighs 75 kg, so it is better to carry it together. Before disassembling the radiator, it is best to remove and rinse it. A small battery can be washed in the bath, after laying a rag. To do this, it is best to take a piece of hose, connect it to a tap with cold water and rinse well. If it is a pity to dirty the bath, you can go out into the yard. Only the presence of water is important, you also need a drain: any horror in the water will be more than enough.

The place for disassembling the radiator is chosen even and spacious enough. If you live in a high-rise building, then this work can be done on stairwell. Of the tools you will need:

• radiator key;
• chisel, hammer, small sledgehammer;
• brush with metal bristles, blowtorch;
• several boards or chocks for lining under the battery;
• plumbing wrench No. 2.3 for unscrewing side plugs (futorok) and plugs.

A few words about the key: you are unlikely to find something like this in a store, it’s easier to look in the market or borrow from a plumber you know.

The key is a round bar with a diameter of 18 mm. On the one hand, it is flattened in the form of a spatula under inner size: its width is 28x40mm and its thickness is 6mm. On the other hand, a ring is welded to it, into which a lever is inserted for rotation. The key length is defined as ½ the length of the largest radiator plus approximately 300 mm. You can make such a “miracle” from a suitable piece of a half-inch pipe, flattening one end. But this option is only suitable for disassembling a new radiator.

The joint was leaking - the gasket was leaking. It is necessary to disassemble the cast-iron battery and change it

To facilitate the work, before disassembling the joint, it is necessary to warm it up with a building hair dryer or a blowtorch. This is where the boards are needed: you put the battery on them and heat them.

There are a lot of problems with "boiled" sections. They are so “related” that even significant physical efforts do not help. Then the first "cure" is heating. Heat the metal to a faint glow, then try to unwind (just take thicker gloves). Another option may come up: unwind after cooling, but only immediately after the temperature drops. In this case, microcracks are formed in the gaskets, and such a connection is destroyed more easily.

Now about the procedure. Having previously unscrewed the plugs, we apply the key on top of the radiator, aligning the key head with the place where the nipple will be unscrewed, and make a circular mark with chalk on the body of the key along the end of the section. Instead of chalk, you can use a piece of electrical tape or tape. Next, insert the key into the lower inner hole and slightly turning along the axis to the right and left bring it to the mark made.

Now about which way you need to unscrew the section. If there is a nipple, then we “bait” it alternately with the left or right side. We determine in which direction it twists. Then unscrew the nut with a wrench in the opposite direction. If the thread is right-handed (twisted clockwise), then to unscrew it, turn the key counterclockwise. For left-handed threads, unscrew clockwise.

If a miracle happened, and you managed to break the thread, do not rush to unwind it completely. Unscrew the nut one turn, then do the same with the top nipple. And so little by little unscrew it from above, then from below. Cast iron does not like distortions and can simply split. In the same way we unwind all sections.

It happens that the leaked section cannot be untwisted. Then try sawing it in the center of the nipple with a grinder or a hacksaw. Just cut the section very carefully. After all, cast iron is by nature a brittle material. There is another way: the middle part of the unusable section is simply broken with a small sledgehammer on both sides, and the nipples are unscrewed with a plumbing key or knocked out with a hammer and chisel.

Assembling a cast iron radiator

It is carried out in the reverse order, the only difference is in changing the direction of rotation of the key. Do not forget about replacing gaskets, it is best to buy paronite gaskets in the store, they are stronger, more durable and withstand aggressive coolants (antifreeze).

Suddenly you will not find such gaskets, you can use sanitary flax. It is wound on the right thread clockwise, and vice versa on the left - counterclockwise. Even for reliability, a sealant can be applied to the thread of the nipple nut (for example, Unilock). If you plan to use antifreeze in the system, then paint cannot be applied to the winding - it will corrode very quickly and you will have to repack everything. And this is the draining of the system, flushing it, disassembling it, then assembling all the sections ... a lot of work. So under the system with antifreeze, use a chemical resistant sealant and paronite gaskets.

Results

Assembly and disassembly of radiators from any material occurs according to one scenario. Only weight can be different, and some more specific characteristics metals (brittleness of cast iron, for example).

Disassembling the heating battery into its component sections is a laborious procedure that is performed either in case of an emergency leak with an emergency attack, or in the order of planned work, which for a number of reasons was necessarily postponed for another period, following the saying: "Until the thunder strikes ...".

It is better to treat philosophically the need for periodic disassembly of the radiator, flushing it from accumulated rust and replacing worn gaskets as an elementary prevention of the heating system.

Along the way, time the disassembly of the heating battery to other repair activities in the apartment, including a quality audit cast iron sections for their further use, adjusting the number of sections in the battery, installing an additional stop valves or moving the battery to another place.

Regulations for the preventive disassembly of the heating battery

Naturally, the disassembly of the battery can only be carried out in the absence of water in heating circuit. Therefore, the method of stopping the supply of coolant is not considered in the regulations.

Then the following operations will be included in the disassembly work:

• dismantling the radiator from the attachment point;
• turning out radiator plugs;
• detachment of sections;
• cleaning of sections, their washing;
• cleaning or replacing nipples;
• connection of sections with screwing in of radiator plugs;
• installation of the radiator in place of attachment.

Dismantling the radiator from the attachment point

In most cases, the radiator is hung on reinforcing steel hooks driven into the wall. Before removing it from these hooks, the radiator must be disconnected from the heating pipes. If the pipes have already rusted through, then it is better not to stand on ceremony with them, but to saw off near the cork at the end of the radiator. The radiator is removed from the hooks along with the protruding horns.

Removing plugs and detaching radiator sections

The removed radiator is laid on a flat place. You need to remove the radiator caps. They can either be with nipples or be blind plugs. Before applying force to loosen, you must determine the direction of the thread. Knowing how to disassemble the heating battery, radiator plugs are removed with a pipe wrench. It is harder to unscrew the stuck threads of batteries that have been in operation for a long time. You have to use the heating of the disassembled intersectional joint with a blowtorch. On adjacent joints that do not need to be disassembled, it is necessary to put a wet rag.

An audible click will be heard when the junction of the two sections is separated. By rotating the nipple, the sections are separated. Thus, it is possible to completely disassemble the battery into its component parts.

Assembly of radiator sections

After disassembling the radiator into sections, it is cleaned of accumulated rust and pieces of old gaskets. On plugs in several passes, it is necessary to refresh the old thread. Then the sections are assembled into a radiator, radiator plugs are screwed in. The radiator is hung in place.

Disassembly of the aluminum radiator

Dismantling an aluminum radiator is similar to the sequence outlined for cast iron batteries. The only difference is that these radiators are relatively new, so for unscrewing threaded connections no need to put in a lot of effort.

Determining the size of the radiator

As already mentioned, in anticipation of the dismantling and disassembly work, you can adjust the number of docked battery sections so that the temperature in the home is comfortable. There are several methods for calculating the size of a heating battery, of which the most popular are calculations for the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe heated room. With sufficient accuracy, they allow you to determine the optimal number of sections of the heater.

Calculations of heating devices for the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room

They involve the standard specific thermal power, determined sanitary standards for heating 1 sq. meters of residential premises with different ceiling heights. Its value is determined in the range from 100 W for a low room to 130 W for a standard room, taking into account two windows.

If we multiply the estimated area of ​​​​the room by the indicated standards, we get the rated power of the heating radiator, which could warm this room. In the case of rooms with ceilings or windows higher than standard, a correction factor of 1.1 is entered.

From the technical data sheet of the radiator model, we use the value of thermal power indicated there for one section.

After dividing the value of the rated power of the heater required for heating the room by the nameplate power of the device, the desired number of sections is obtained. Rounding it up, we come to the size of the battery.