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CHAMFERING.

Chamfering is called the bevel of the corner along the edge of the board. Any ELECTRIC PLANER can do this, but many models are equipped with special V-grooves on the front sole. Their walls serve as a support for, so that work requires less effort and you can focus on main task- strictly maintaining the angle. If you have to remove a very wide chamfer, use the largest groove and set the depth to the maximum, plan the narrow one with the smallest groove, and set the depth to "0".

TEST #4

Chamfer several times using all available grooves. The work is carried out without auxiliary means. The ergonomics of the ELECTRIC PLANE are evaluated, as well as how difficult it is to maintain the transverse angle. Of course, the little things that help or hinder in the work are also given attention.

ELECTRIC PLANE BOSCH GH0 15-82.
This small and, most importantly, lightweight ELECTRIC PLANE seems to be made for such work. Three grooves on the sole different sizes, the angle is easy to hold. The POWER TOOL did not cause serious complaints, except that the smallest groove is not visible (there are pillars), and the ejection of chips is one-sided.

METABO ELECTRIC PLANE No 0882.
There is only one groove on the sole (albeit a large one) and it is located in the center. Overall and weighty, it was not easy to maintain an angle of 45 °. During chamfering, the angle seemed to be correct, but as a result, it turned out to be more gentle. It was only after several “lapping” attempts that the results improved.

ELECTRIC PLANER SPARKY P 382.
Externally, the POWER TOOL is quite unusual, but how does this affect the work?
The point of coverage is located at the bottom and shifted back, and the center of gravity is shifted up and forward. It turns out that during planing, the ELECTRIC PLANE is pushed from behind. This action requires less effort than guiding a conventional ELECTRIC PLANE of the same weight with a standard grip, which is especially noticeable when working vertically or at an angle. The second "plus" is easier to put pressure on rear frame end of the passage. It should be noted such a disadvantage of the layout as a poor view of the area in front of the ELECTRIC PLANE: the hand clasping the additional handle interferes.
You should not be surprised at the high rating, this one has good makings for chamfering. All grooves are quite large, and the weight of the POWER TOOL is felt weakly, thanks to the unusual layout! Convenient separate additional handle. The only inconvenience is that the POWER TOOL does not lie flat on the edge, but with a longitudinal skew, and as you advance, you have to press the sole against the workpiece.

ELECTRIC PLANE MAKITA KR0810.
Even with a very decent weight, the POWER TOOL turned out to be convenient for chamfering. The corner is maintained without problems, and the sole fits snugly on the edge at the very beginning of the passage. In this type of planing, the ELECTRIC PLANE even has its own style: whether the chamfer is removed or not, you cannot immediately determine, the sound practically does not change. Work is determined only by the outgoing dust.

And now let's talk about the performance and mobility of our "competitors".

Being engaged in the processing of wood, you can not do without a planer. Not everyone can use a hand planer professionally. But there are electric planes that anyone can master. This tool allows you to achieve excellent results after a short training.

A planer in the hands of a professional carpenter is capable of literally to create miracles. But it takes years to master this instrument to such an extent. Home master who would like to learn planing faster, we can recommend purchasing an electric planer. It is not difficult to master it, besides, when using such a planer, you do not need to make great efforts: they are “saving” by an electric motor.

It is possible to cleanly process the edges of boards or narrow parts with an electric plane without having any experience with this tool, that is, the first time.

Some skills will require the processing of large surfaces.

It is important here to prevent the formation of ugly furrows between the individual passes of the planer, which happens if the tool is positioned and driven inaccurately. Therefore, it is better to first test it on cheap timber. So, lay out the boards that are rough after sawing on a plane, glue them together by connecting them with plug-in spikes, and then try to plan the resulting shield to give it a smooth surface.

An electric planer can be driven over a fixed workpiece or mounted on a workbench and passed workpieces through it.

In this chapter, we will tell you how to use the electric planer correctly.

Installation

Both manual and electric planers can adjust the depth of cut (usually between one and three millimeters). Moreover, for a planer of any type, the rule is true: the smaller the set depth of cut, the less risk that the work will be unsuccessful. It happens, for example, that at the end of the pass, the planer is involuntarily pressed harder, due to which the edge of the workpiece is rounded off. But this is easier to avoid if the rotating knives just barely rise above the sole of the tool. And in general, the thinner the layer of wood that the knives of the electric planer remove, the more imperceptible are the traces of its passages.

Increase gradually

When processing unplaned wood, first set the planer to a relatively large depth of cut, and then - before each new pass - gradually reduce it.

As experience is gained, skill comes, the ability to properly handle the planer and, in particular, the ability to take it away at the end of the passage, preventing the back edge of the part from rounding. Now you can already try to remove the maximum layer of wood when selecting a fold in order to process the edge not in ten passes, but in just four or five. How accurately the depth of cut is set, which is determined by the position of the front end base plate planer in relation to its back, it is easy to check with a ruler.

The position of the front of the planer sole can be adjusted to allow the rotating blades to cut more or less wood.

Planing direction

Both manual and electric planes are best planed in the direction of the wood fibers.

One of the basic rules for working with a hand planer is to guide the tool only in the direction of the wood grain. And although the high-speed rotating knives of the electric planer affect the material differently than the cutter hand planer, nevertheless, here the results will be much better if you follow the indicated, repeatedly tested rule. But there are no rules without exceptions. For example, the surfaces of panels assembled from several boards or bars of different thicknesses, that is, with noticeable protrusions, should be treated differently. In such cases, a smooth surface can be obtained faster if the electric planer is driven at an angle to the direction of the wood fibers.

Surfaces of parts assembled from different elements, smooth, leading the electric planer at an angle to the adhesive seams.

edges

When processing or, as experts say, gouging the edge of the board with a planer, it is very important, firstly, to guide the tool exactly at a right angle to the surface of the part and, secondly, when approaching its trailing edge, do not press the planer too hard.

It is possible to clean the edge without resorting to improvised means only to those who confidently use the tool and feel it well. Therefore, it is better for a beginner to use an angular stop in conjunction with a fixed electric planer, which will allow you to more accurately guide the part and avoid beveling its cut edge. The installed angular stop forms a right angle with the planer sole, and if the part fits snugly against the stop all the time, then the planer sole is always perpendicular to it.

Proper care

In order for the emphasis to provide correct position parts, it must be well fixed. If the stop is used for a long time, it is necessary to periodically check whether there are any deviations from its initial installation, and, if necessary, tighten the fixing screws. It is also necessary to check from time to time work surface stop, as resin deposits may appear on it. Periodically, both the surface of the stop and the sole of the planer should be washed with white spirit, thereby ensuring good sliding of the workpiece.

The board, placed on the edge, should fit snugly against the corner stop. This ensures that the planer cuts the edge of the part exactly at right angles to the base surface.

Chamfer gouging

Sharp edges of boards or slabs can split. Therefore, they are "blunted", that is, they make a chamfer. Such processing should also be subjected to parts that will later be varnished, which will avoid hard transitions from one lacquered surface to another.

The triangular notch in the sole, which all electric planes have, facilitates the formation of a chamfer (bevel) on the edge of the part.

All electric planers have a triangular notch on the sole, which facilitates the formation of a chamfer. But you can also use the corner stop, setting it at an angle of 45 degrees to the surface of the desktop. When gouging chamfers, the stop must fit snugly against the part. After completing the work, do not forget to return the stop to its previous position, that is, set it at an angle of 90 degrees.

If it is necessary to trim the entire edge of the part with a bevel, then the corner stop is set at an angle of 45 degrees.

Edge seam gouging

For a conventional hand planer, the selection of a fold - a rectangular groove along the edge of the part - is an impossible task (here you need a special planing tool - a selector or a folder). But even a beginner can successfully cope with this operation if he has an electric planer, an angle stop and a cutting depth limiter at his disposal.

Selecting a fold of the desired width

The corner stop is set at a given distance from the part. In this way, it limits the width of the planing and at the same time ensures a right angle between the planer and the edge of the part. On the right side of the planer, a cutting depth limiter is installed. Now, with a planer, in which the knife outreach should be maximum (previously, the knives should be tightly driven to the right outer edge of the sole and partially covered with a small folding plate), pass by pass - until the depth gauge hits the spring next to the fold.

At the end of the pass, do not put pressure on the planer from above: when the front of the sole slips over the edge of the part, the cutting depth gauge does not always work and the planer knives can cut too deep into the tree.

When gouging a fold at the end of the board, you can not bring the planer to the edge too quickly, otherwise there may be chips. However, it is worth noting that the risk of chipping when machining the ends of parts electric planer much less than with manual processing.

The selection of a fold of the required width and depth is provided by an angular stop and a cutting depth limiter.

Imitation rough finish

The knives of an electric planer, as a rule, have two cutting edges, and if the knives are dull on one side, then they are simply turned over. Of course, knives with straight cutting edges are most often used. But such knives can be replaced with rusticated ones - with wavy cutting edges (replacing knives that are fastened with screws on the knife shaft is a simple procedure).

The wavy cutting edges of rusticated knives leave parallel grooves on the surface of the wood.

The photo below shows how the surface of the tree looks like, processed with rusticated knives. Note that it acquires this form as a result of at least two passes with a planer. During the first pass, the knives cut parallel grooves. During the second pass, the planer is led with slight displacements, first to one side, then to the other, so that chaotic grooves remain, and the surface of the tree seems to be hand-crafted with an ax or a chisel. If some areas are too smooth or orderly, then a third pass is made with a planer, achieving a highly textured surface - such as would normally be considered rough.

By repeated planing, the desired texture is obtained: the bridges between the grooves are cut off and the surface seems to be randomly processed.

Cycling

The cycle removes all the irregularities left after processing the surface of the tree with a planer. After processing with an electric planer, the surface is not completely even and smooth: even after the most careful work, more or less noticeable traces remain that need to be removed. First, the surface is treated with cycles, then with a thin sandpaper.

The blade of the cycle should be sharp and straight. It is led along the tree at a slight angle in the direction of the fibers. The blade of the cycle cuts off tiny bumps (bridges between the passages of the planer) and protruding fibers. The cycle evenly removes chips in the form of small and thin “curls”.

Sharpening cycles

After prolonged use, the blade of the cycle becomes dull. This manifests itself as follows: the cycle still cuts off from the raw and Not flat surface thin wood chips, but instead of old irregularities, new ones appear. So, the cycle needs to be sharpened.

After scraping, the surface of the wood is treated with fine-grained sandpaper (grit 180). The result will be better if the surface is pre-moistened with water, then dried and sanded again with fresh sandpaper. From the water, the fibers of the tree swell, and the incised ones straighten and therefore are better cut.

The cycle removes the bridges between the traces of the planer and all the bumps that still remain on the surface of the tree.

Usually, when planing wooden blocks or narrow boards, it is often necessary to chamfer small size from the edges of the workpiece, in order to reduce the sharpness of the corners, as well as make them more beautiful. To do this under normal conditions, you have to hold the workpiece with a planer at an angle of about 45 degrees, which is not very convenient, especially when you work with an electric planer, which is many times heavier than a manual one. Decide this problem you can use your special device, which will look like a longitudinal corner, where the bar will be placed, which will be further processed, and its edge will be just at the top, which is convenient for processing.

This arrangement of the workpiece in a homemade fixture will also help for planing faceted and round bars, as well as wooden handles that are inconvenient to process on a flat surface. The author of the homemade product thought about making such a device, since it became necessary when he was planing blanks for the handles of shovels, because with such a device the work was completed faster, and it was also much more convenient to work this way.

In order to make this device, you must:
Two wooden planks 2 cm thick, 4 cm wide and 6 cm wide, and 2 m long.
Wooden plank 2 cm thick, 5 cm wide, and 50 cm long.
Wood screws 4x50 mm.
Drawing and measuring tools (pencil, tape measure and square).
Awl.
Electric jigsaw with saw for curly cut.
Electric drill-driver.
Drill for metal with a diameter of 4 mm.
Spherical cutter for wood.
Cross (shaped) bit RN2, for screwdriving.
Sandpaper.

When all the materials, as well as tools, are available, then you can proceed to the most interesting, this assembly process.

Step one.
First of all, you need to decide on the dimensions, you can use the dimensions that are given here, but if your workpiece has big sizes, then we simply increase the size of the milestones constituent parts to the required. Using a pencil, we mark a bar 6 cm wide, then using a screwdriver and a drill, we drill holes along its entire length, on one side there are 5 or 6 holes for screws, as a rule, the more, the better, and more reliable.

Step two.
Having placed the bar on the opposite side with the help of a drill installed in the screwdriver chuck, we increase the dimensions for the screw heads, using a spherical wood cutter.

After we have increased the holes for the hats, we insert screws into these holes and screw our bar to the end of another bar 4 cm wide.

What should work for this stage can be seen in the photo, this is the so-called wooden corner, its length is 2 m, it is made in order to have a margin in length used in the processing of blanks, thereby increasing the range of application, since you do not have to combine the sizes of either small or large fixtures, and it’s easier and more practical to make one, but more authentic.

Step three.
Using a jigsaw, we cut out a smaller workpiece from a plank, which will be the supporting part, with which the device will be held on a flat surface, this process requires sufficient accuracy and accuracy, for better accuracy, use a special corner stand on the jigsaw, which will help in creating even cuts. When working with a jigsaw, be extremely careful and do not forget to wear safety glasses and gloves, protecting yourself from accidental sawdust and wood dust getting into your eyes, and also protecting you from slipping out of the hands of the tool.

Step four.
The previous blank, the role of which is to hold our corner part, must be drawn, the lines must correspond to an angle of 45 degrees, as in the main part, for a better match, attach the future support and circle with a pencil. To fix it, you need to drill holes for the screws, in this case there will be three of them, which is quite enough, we select the drill according to the diameter of the screws so that the thread passes without difficulty.

Step five.
Then we tighten the screws with a screwdriver, that is, we fasten this workpiece to the end of our corner fixture, try not to overdo it with the twisting force so as not to damage the support and form a crack in it.

The rest of the bar will also benefit, we make the same blanks from it using a jigsaw, you will need two of these.

We supplement the corner with two more supports, which will make it much more stable, and it will also acquire a large workload, which is also important during processing. We fasten them in the same way as the first support.
Step six.
The back of the fixture must be drilled on each side, while using a screwdriver with a drill, the diameter of which is equal to the thickness of the screw, for strength we make two holes on each side to prevent turning.

The place of the holes, as in the previous stages, must be processed with a spherical wood cutter in order to drown the screw heads and thereby eliminate accidental engagement.

Step seven.
Armed with a screwdriver and a bit for driving screws, we twist the screws into blanks.

Next, we move on to more precise processing, for this we use sandpaper, as usual we start with a larger one, gradually reduce the grain size as we approach the finish of grinding.
On this our makeshift fixture done, now consider it from all sides for a full assessment.
This is what its back looks like.

And so is the front.

After you make such a device, you will have the opportunity to process bars without any difficulties and inconvenience, whether it be a wooden handle or a blank with square edges.

A device with a workpiece for processing.

A chamfer is the surface of a product, which is formed during the processing of a rolled product or pipe by a bevel of the end edge of the material. A chamfer is necessary to prepare the edges of sheets, beams and pipes for welding.

The main types of chamfers are:

"Gas". This is the cheapest type of pipe bevel due to its poor quality. However, this type is one of the most common. This chamfer is removed using . Chamfer "Gas" can be made in field conditions. Its surface is usually with characteristic grooves, which are formed from a gas jet (propane or acetylene).
"Plasma". Outwardly, this type of chamfer is practically no different from the "mechanics". It can also be attributed to the "factory". The "Plasma" chamfer is an air-plasma cutter, a compressor and, forcing the cutter to move strictly in a circle, when a certain chamfer angle is set.
"Mechanics". This is a factory chamfer best quality. For cutting the chamfer "mechanics" are used and. In the pipe market, this chamfer is mainly used due to the high quality of the chamfer.

What is the purpose of chamfering? When welding blanks, the metal is melted, which subsequently ensures the connection of the edges with each other. If the thickness of the metal is more than 3-5 mm, obtaining a complete and high-quality connection becomes difficult. To obtain high-quality penetration, this type of processing is carried out: it allows you to create a so-called weld pool, which is filled with a welding compound during the welding process. It is important to remember that an edge prepared for welding is an edge with a chamfer and blunting (see the figure and symbols for it below).

Types of chamfers (methods of cutting edges).

There are three main ways of cutting edges for welding: Y-shaped, X-shaped, and J-shaped. Sometimes in some sources they are denoted by letters: V, K and U, respectively. Hereinafter, the above methods will be denoted by the letters: Y, X. J. Most often, a Y-shaped cutting of the edges is carried out, but there is also an X-shaped method. IN special occasions, when there is an increased requirement for the quality of the weld, a J-shaped chamfer is used, that is, a chamfer with a curved surface (not to be confused with edge curvature!).

In addition to the main ways of processing Y, X. J edges, there are a number of edge preparations. They are not so rare, and not everywhere you can find their description. For example, GOST 5264-80 describes a butt joint type with a broken edge bevel; symbol- C14.

The diagrams above show some examples of processing methods:

1: an example of a Y-shaped chamfering method;

2, 3, 4: examples of the X-shaped chamfering method;

5: Y-shaped processing of the ends of two pipes with their subsequent connection;

Chamfering methods.

Chamfering can be done in two ways: mechanical and thermal (table 1). Mechanical chamfering is performed using milling, beveling and edge-cutting machines. For thermal chamfering, flame cutting machines (stationary or portable) are used that perform plasma or oxy-fuel cutting. However, the preferred method is mechanical, as it allows you to exclude changes in physical and chemical properties material due to overheating. As you know, during heat treatment, a so-called heat-affected zone is formed. The heat affected zone is the carburization of the edge due to overheating of the material, which impairs weldability and increases the brittleness and brittleness of the edge. But, despite these shortcomings, the thermal method is quite common because of its simplicity and speed of use, and the relatively low cost of equipment.

Table 1. Advantages and disadvantages of thermal and mechanical ways chamfering.

Table 1 says that thermal chamfering can be done quickly and cheaply. Of the processing methods described above, mechanical is still preferable, since it allows you to save the metal from overheating and from subsequent changes in physical and chemical properties. In the West, by the way, this method is called cold-cutting (cold working), that is, a type of processing in which there is no thermal effect on the metal, which means there are no changes in chemical and physical properties metal.

Video footage:

1. Pipe cutting by gas cutting machine CG2-11G, simultaneous chamfering of the pipe is carried out by tilting the cutter at the required angle.

2. Chamfering from a 76x6mm pipe with a Mangust-2MT machine

3. Pipe chamfering with a TT series chamfer, and pipe chamfering with a P3-SD split pipe cutter

The SPIKOM group of companies offers to supply equipment for chamfering pipes and metal using all of the above processing methods (gas, plasma, mechanical).

Do you want to remove small bevels on the edges of a countertop or drawer front? This is easy to do by grinding, but it is difficult to achieve clarity and uniformity, and using a router will require a long setup. A handy little planer will do the job just fine. It is easy and quick to set up and always ready to go. And it doesn't have tangled wires.

First make a body-block

1 For the manufacture of body A, a blank with a size of 25x35x152 mm is required. (We cut it out of a 45mm thick maple board. You can glue a block of thinner boards.) Copy the cabinet template to match the slope saw machine left or right). Cut the template along the contour and glue it with spray glue to one of the sides and the end of the workpiece, bending along the fold line.

2 To make an angled sole on body A, tilt the saw blade of the machine at an angle of 45° away from the longitudinal (parallel) stop and adjust the depth of cut to the cut mark 1 on the template. (On machines with right tilt saw blade install longitudinal stop to the left of the disk. If the blade tilts to the left, leave the stop to the right of it.) Secure the stop by aligning the disk with the oblique line on the template and make a cut (fig. 1, step 1). Then return the saw blade to the vertical position, adjust the depth of cut to cut mark 2, align the blade with the line on the template and make the second cut (fig. 1, step 2).

3 File body A across to the final length. Save the cut.

4 To make a notch in the middle part of body A, first attach a 100 mm high wooden extension to the movable (corner) stop of the machine. Glue the case to it with double-sided tape on fabric basis, tilt the saw blade of the machine at an angle of 20 ° and make two cuts, as shown in the photo "Tips 1 and 2". When sawing, pass the planer body together with the trim through the saw blade and turn off the machine. Do not slide the workpiece back over the rotating disc. (The photo shows the machine with a right-hand tilt saw blade, and the body with the fence bar is to the right of the blade. On a machine with a left-hand tilt of the saw blade, the body and fence should be on the left.)

5 By grinding, make roundings on the body in the places indicated on the template. Delete the template.

Now add cheeks

1 Saw and plan a 6x38x203mm blank for cheeks B, C. (We used bubingo wood to make the planer match the other tools in our collection series. Walnut or cherry can be a good substitute.) Make copies of the templates for the left and right cheeks and glue them to the blank aerosol adhesive. Cut out the cheeks with band saw or jigsaw and sand to final shape. On milling table with an edge cutter, make roundings with a radius of 3 mm on the cheeks in the places indicated on the template (photo "Tip 3").

2 Glue the right cheek B to the body A, aligning it in the center (Fig. 2) and fix the gluing with clamps. When the glue dries, glue the left cheek C to the body, flush with the sole and with equal indents in front and behind.

3 Take the scrap left over from the body blank and use it to prevent chipping when drilling the hole for the brass rod (photo A).

4 Remove the trim and cheek templates, then finish sanding the planer. Soften slightly the sharp edges of body A by sanding.

5 With a hacksaw for metal, saw off a piece 40 mm long from a brass bar with a diameter of 5 mm and insert it into the holes of the cheeks, while on one side the brass rod should protrude by about 6 mm. Apply a drop of "second" (cyanoacrylate) glue to the protruding end of the rod, and then push it further into the holes. On both sides, the rod should protrude from the cheeks by about 0.8 mm. Once the glue has set, use a file and sandpaper to line up the protruding ends of the rod flush with the sides of the case.

Make a locking wedge

1 Cut out a 6x25x76mm blank for the wedge (we used the same material as for the jaws). Make a copy of the wedge template. Use spray adhesive to glue the template to the top and one of the sides of the workpiece, bending it along the fold line.

2 Set to jigsaw machine file #12 and, placing the workpiece on the side with the template up, cut out the side outline of the wedge. Guide the cut along the contour with an indent of about 0.8 mm in order to subsequently fine-tune the thickness of the wedge. Use double-sided tape on a fabric basis to glue the sawn off part of the workpiece to the wedge. (photo B). Then cut out the top outline (photo C).

3 Insert the blade into the body so that the cutting edge protrudes slightly from the sole, and fix it with a wedge. Adjust the blade reach and tighten the wedge by hitting the front end of the body with a mallet. By carefully grinding the front end from above, adjust the wedge, achieving a tight pressing of the blade. Then finish sanding the wedge, slightly rounding the ribs on the back of the wedge.