How to install heating batteries in a private house. Do-it-yourself installation of heating batteries (radiators) - the main technological stages. Her main virtues

Content:

In order to install heating batteries in an apartment yourself, you need to choose the right type of them, decide on the type of wiring and connection diagram, and then follow the rules.

Do-it-yourself heating radiator installation - Photo

Defects in the heating system of an apartment can occur for many reasons, which can not be eliminated without replacing the batteries. Then one of the most acceptable solutions would be to install heating radiators with your own hands. This is not an easy matter and requires strict adherence to technologies and rules, as well as accuracy and at least minimal skills in handling simple tools, such as a level, different types wrenches, drill, screwdriver, etc. Equally important is the use of quality materials and knowledge of how to install the battery.

The main stages of self-installation of heating batteries

Stage 1. Preparatory. It includes quite a few actions, each of which is very important.

You should start with the theory, only then the replacement of heating radiators in the apartment will be successful, and the immediate elimination of the mistakes made will not be required.

Ways of wiring radiators and their connection diagrams

Methods for distributing heating pipes - Photo

You should start by studying battery wiring methods, and choose the most appropriate of the existing options:

Single pipe or series . It is the simplest in terms of its device, which is a definite plus for people who decide to do such work for the first time and do not really understand how to install a battery.

The coolant is sequentially supplied to all heating devices and returned through the same pipe. It has the following significant disadvantages:

• the final battery with such a scheme most often does not warm up enough;
• no control over temperature regime each radiator;
• to repair or replace the battery, you will have to turn off the entire riser.

ADVICE. Install a bypass, which will allow you to turn off only those radiators that are equipped with this device.

Two-pipe . This option is somewhat more complicated than the previous one, but it’s real to deal with it with your own hands, you just need to make every effort and effort.

Used here parallel connection, when the coolant is supplied to each radiator and returns already cooled down through another, called the return.

Among the advantages of this option: the ability to regulate the degree of heating of the battery using thermostats, the room warms up more evenly, and repairs are much easier to perform, since you can turn off any of the devices separately without involving the entire system in the process.

Collector . For apartments, it is not used and, moreover, is the most difficult to implement. Therefore, we will not dwell on it in detail.

battery connection diagrams in the apartment - Photo

Of no less importance connection diagram. They are selected according to design features apartments, existing system heating and some other factors. Consider the features of each option:

• The most common connection type is unilateral lateral . It has good heat dissipation, but if multi-section radiators are used in the apartment, then insufficient heating of those sections that are located on the edge is possible. Correcting this shortcoming is not at all difficult - you need to install an extension cord for the water flow.
• lower. This method is advisable if the heating pipes pass under the baseboard or are built into the floor. Branch pipes for hot water supply and return are located at the very bottom of the battery and directed vertically downwards, which does not violate the aesthetic perception of the room. However, heat losses can reach very significant values ​​- up to 15%.
• Diagonal . This option is preferred if the radiators have 12 or more sections. Here, the hot carrier pipe is connected to the upper branch pipe on one side of the battery, and the return pipe is connected to the lower one, located on its side. reverse side. Heat losses do not exceed 5%. However, this figure will double if the connection points of the return and the main pipe are reversed.

Given the characteristics of your home, as well as your preferences, you can choose the most suitable type of connection. In case of serious doubts, you can seek the advice of professionals.

The choice of heating devices (radiators)

When installing heating radiators with your own hands, it is important to choose correctly which of the many available on the market today are suitable for specific conditions. Consider the most interesting and popular types:

Cast iron. The advantages of such familiar heating devices include: durability, good heat dissipation, unpretentiousness. However, in order to ensure good heating of the room, such batteries must have a fairly large number of sections, which are not so easy to assemble.

There are also features of fixing such batteries in houses built from different materials. For example, if the walls are built of wood, in addition to supporting fasteners, you will need a support stand.

Aluminum . Fit into interiors different styles and have good heat dissipation, low weight. Great for installing do-it-yourself heating radiators.

Steel batteries . These corrosion-resistant heating devices are characterized by good heat dissipation and high level operational characteristics. Other advantages include low price and ease of installation.

Bimetallic . Such batteries look very attractive, have high heat dissipation, low weight, do not require special maintenance.

Aluminum heating radiator - Photo

Choosing the most suitable type of radiators you need calculate the required number of sections. It is better to find out all the necessary values ​​\u200b\u200bfrom the specialists of the store where you plan to purchase these devices.

ADVICE. In accordance with the good old rules, one section is enough for a quality heating of 2 m2, if the ceiling height does not exceed 2.7 m. This calculation does not reflect specifications modern types of radiators, as well as specific conditions that last years have changed significantly. Therefore, such a calculation can only be taken as a very approximate guideline.

Stage 2. Documentation, acquisition the right details and materials.

Heating in the apartment is part of a single centralized system and in order to drain the coolant, it will be necessary to turn off the entire house. Coordination of such actions with state bodies is prerequisite. If you try to install heating batteries with your own hands, without permission, you may be held administratively liable in the form of a fine.

ADVICE. It is advisable to issue permits in advance, since a decision on your application takes some time.

To properly and quickly install the batteries in the apartment you will need:

• brackets, which are selected according to the type of materials of the walls of the apartment. Their number is calculated based on the rule: at least one bracket for each meter of battery area.
• Shut-off valves. When installing heating radiators with your own hands, having no experience in performing such work, preference should be given to radiator-type products.
• Drives. They are used to connect batteries to the heating system without welding and plumbing. They must match the size of the battery and the threads of the pipes used.
• Adapters, couplings, Mayevsky cranes, tow, sealing tape etc.

Stage 3. Choosing a place and rules for installing batteries.

Do-it-yourself battery installation in the apartment - Photo

After the old batteries have been dismantled, you can proceed to marking the mounts for the new ones. Here it is very important to know how to install the battery so that the indoor climate is pleasant.

There is nothing complicated: radiators are installed in places where there is a significant temperature difference - near doors and windows.

Exists whole line rules on how to properly install batteries, which must be strictly observed:

The slope of the eyeliner elements should be at least 0.005, but it is better if this figure is twice as large. It is most expedient to measure it along the length of the pipes, based on the calculation that each meter should be inclined by 0.5 cm towards the circulation of the coolant.
. The distances from the battery to other surfaces should be:
o to the floor - 6-10 cm;
o to the windowsill - 5-10 cm;
o to the wall - 3-5 cm.
. Strict observance of the horizontal and vertical when installing the heater, and not “by eye”, but with the help of a level.

ADVICE. Install a heat shield behind the radiator or cover the wall with a similar material. This will improve battery performance, improve the microclimate at no extra cost.

• The centers of the window opening and the battery must match. A slight displacement is possible - no more than 2 cm, which is not visually noticeable.
• Radiators in the same room should be placed at the same level, which is technologically advanced and looks aesthetically attractive.

Stage 4. Final. Installation of batteries and connection to the riser.

Before proceeding with the installation of radiators, you need to install brackets for which:

• Mark the points of their placement, which are selected, taking into account the installation rules;
• Holes are drilled in the wall, where dowels are installed and fasteners are screwed in, which are purchased or made independently. Connecting battery sections requires special tools and some skill, so it's wiser to have the job done in a store. It is quite possible to assemble the mounting kit yourself.

  To connect the battery to the heating system, a threaded drive is used, and then the joints are sealed with tow, and welding is also used.

  Installation of aluminum or bimetal heating radiators video
  

  Other options are possible if, when creating heating system metal-plastic or propylene pipes are installed.

  Now you have an idea how to install a heating battery, and if you wish, you can easily do this work yourself.

Independent installation of heating devices is a task for which you need to carefully prepare. The slightest violation of the simplest process in the opinion of an amateur often leads to negative emergency consequences. Therefore, it is advisable to entrust the replacement of batteries in city apartments to plumbers, on whose powerful shoulders the entire burden of responsibility will fall, and in a private house, installation of heating batteries with their own hands can be successfully performed by the owner. However, in order not to have to repair the floors and re-paste the wallpaper after a hot "flood", you should familiarize yourself with the information about the basic rules and nuances of installation.

Preparatory stage of work

The first step is to find out what type of wiring was used when organizing the heating system. The owners who arranged it on their own should know whether the heating network provides heat to their country estates.

Before you start installing a radiator, you should find out a single-pipe or two-pipe heating circuit in the house, the choice of parts and their number depend on the wiring diagram

Parts required for installation

Details are selected depending on the design features. For a battery built into single-pipe heating, it will be necessary. This element will allow, in case of any malfunctions, to turn off only the device equipped with a bypass without shutting off the entire heating system, which is extremely undesirable in frosty weather.

The connection scheme and type of radiator also determine the number of connecting and functional elements required for proper installation. According to the scheme and dimensions, adapters, couplings, nipples, corners are selected.

An inexperienced performer should not get carried away with details for mounting a radiator that are too complicated to install: 1) corners, 2) radiator shut-off valve, 3) "American", 4) tap with an American

The future installer will also need shut-off valves. It is the radiator type of valves that is recommended to choose, without being carried away by too complicated ball valves with an "American" that require professional skills from the performer. Ensuring tightness without experience is problematic. To connect the battery to the pipeline, you will need spurs with a thread corresponding to the size of the radiator and pipes. A sleeve will still be screwed onto the sleeves, which is then twisted and inserted into the battery.

With the help of spurs, it is easier and easier to connect the radiator to the heating circuit - there is no need to weld the joints of the supply and pipeline

It is important to note that when purchasing for installation, you must first check whether the brackets included in the kit correspond to the type of material from which the walls are built.

In order to let air out of the battery, it must be equipped with a Mayevsky crane. Usually it is available in the factory, but if not, you will need to buy it.

An important detail for correct installation heating radiator - Mayevsky tap, necessary to release air from the device

How to calculate location?

Those wishing to carry out the installation of the radiator on their own should be aware that the sections of pipes leading to the devices must be positioned with a slight slope in the direction of movement. In the case of strictly horizontal laying, as well as in the case of a slight distortion in the radiator installation, air will “collect” in steel or cast iron batteries. It will have to be constantly blown by hand to avoid a decrease in heat transfer.

It is desirable that the central axis of the radiator coincides with the axis passing through the center of the window opening. Deviations of 2 cm are permissible, absolutely not determined visually. This recommendation is not a strict requirement.

In the list of strict rules:

• The elements of the connection to the heating devices should be located so that the slope is 0.005, it is recommended to increase it to 0.01. That is, one meter of the pipeline must be inclined towards the circulation by at least 0.5 cm. The angle of inclination should be calculated according to the length of the installed pipe sections.
• From the floor plane to the battery 6-10 cm or more.
• From the bottom line of the window sill to the top line of the radiator 5-10 cm.
• From the wall surface to the radiator 3-5 cm.

When installing a radiator, a prerequisite is the observance of horizontal and vertical directions.

Norms and rules for installing a heating device: distances from the floor, walls, window sill

In order to increase the performance of the radiator, a specialized shield made of heat-reflecting material can be installed on the wall behind it before installation. You can simply cover the surface of the wall with a composition with similar properties.

For aesthetic and technological reasons, radiators in the same room are located on the same level.

Marking batteries with brackets

The sectional principle of selecting heating devices allows you to accurately determine the number of sections needed to heat a room with specific specifications. Information about the rules of payment must be found and studied before buying. But according to the installation rules, 1 m² of the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe heating surface of the battery is equipped with one bracket.

Brackets for mounting radiators: home-made on top, factory-made on the bottom, if desired House master he will be able to do it with his own hands, by analogy with factory-made battery mounts

So, here's what to do:

• Taking into account the above rules, we mark the installation points of the brackets.
• Before drilling holes, all distances are checked again.
• We insert dowels into the drilled holes, into which we then screw the fasteners.

If the markup was done correctly, the battery will “lie down” tightly on all installed supports, firmly resting on each of them. Further installation of the radiator with your own hands is to connect the device to the communication system.

Tools and Consumables

The performer will need torque wrenches with dimensions that allow to observe the torque moment with high accuracy. Since the coolant moves through the system under pressure, insufficient tightness will lead to a jet from the junction. Overtightening will cause thread stripping with similar consequences. Therefore, you should carefully follow the instructions that come with each device. They indicate the value of the dynamometric moments.

You will need to stock up with sealant, tow, impregnated oil paint, or special sealing tape.

Direct installation process

Before starting work, it is necessary to completely shut off the heating circuit, drain the water from the system, and the pump will help to remove the remnants of it qualitatively. Carefully check with the help of a level the battery hung on the supports vertically and horizontally.

• All plugs must be unscrewed from the device.
• Connect a valve-equipped bypass, required only for a one-pipe circuit. A bypass is not needed to connect to a two-pipe circuit; only a squeegee with a valve attached to it is used for connection.

With the help of threaded rods, we connect the battery to the system, to seal the joints using tow or other sealant (if you have experience in welding, the joints of the pigtails and the pipeline can be welded).

A bypass is required for connection to a single-pipe circuit - connection diagram: 1 - tee for metal plastic pipes; 2 - direct control valve; 3 - direct shut-off valve; 4 - adapter for metal-plastic pipes; 5 - rotary valve for air release

It is important to note that until the end of the installation with, and devices, it is not necessary to remove the packaging shell.

Installation completed, but more needed. For its implementation, you will need to call a plumber. Both his experience and the device will come in handy, which does not make sense to buy for the sake of installing several batteries.

The specifics of installing a cast-iron radiator

No matter how intensely the manufacturers of innovative batteries promote their aesthetic ultra-light aluminum and bimetallic products, there are still quite a few adherents of cast iron. The material, which is not pleasing with elegance, retains heat for an incredibly long time, gradually transferring it to the heated space. Those who wish to learn how to properly install a heating radiator made of heat-intensive cast iron should familiarize themselves with specific features device design and installation:

• Before installation, the cast iron battery will need to be unscrewed, the nipples adjusted, and then the device must be reassembled. Disassembly is carried out on a workbench, using a pair of radiator wrenches inserted into the nipple holes. To increase the applied force and to fix it, a crowbar is inserted into the eye of the key designed to unscrew the lower nipple. To avoid distortion, both nipples located above and below are unscrewed simultaneously. It is more convenient to do the work together. When unscrewing a cast iron radiator, pay attention to the direction of the thread. On different sides of the cast iron radiator, threads with the opposite direction. Have you deployed? Take off the section.
• By analogy, you need to unscrew all the sections, and then group them in a strict reverse order into a single device with the number of sections required to heat a particular room. The assembled battery must be pressed, if a leak is detected, adjust the nipple in the problem area.
• Cast iron wall-mounted batteries can be fixed on brick and foam concrete walls. Wood walls will not support the weight, so the owner wooden house you will need radiators with special floor stands-supports. However, supporting fasteners must also be installed on the walls.
• Since in private houses heating is mainly single-pipe, a bypass is being installed. In the connection diagram, there must be a Mayevsky crane and the corresponding shutoff valves.

Connection to the pipeline is carried out using threaded spurs. IN wooden buildings It is better not to use a welding machine.

Breakout and assembly technology cast iron batteries: a - nipples capture the thread of sections (2-3 threads); b - twist the nipples, dock the sections; c - mount the third section; g - group two radiators

The difference in the schemes for attaching a cast-iron battery to walls made of different building materials:
a) wooden wall: 1) support bar, 2) stand
b) brick wall: 1) window sill, 2) niche, 3) brackets

Whether or not it is worth saving on installing batteries is a personal matter of the owner. In fact, there is not a single particularly difficult moment in the installation technology. By strictly following the sequence, knowing the rules, having studied the information on how to install a heating radiator, you can safely get down to business with your hands, confidently holding radiator, torque wrenches and other tools. True, to achieve success, confidence alone will not be enough. Thorough observance of the installation rules and the formation of impeccable tightness, which guarantees the complete absence of leaks, will certainly help.

Lost battery? Do you want to replace an old bulky cast-iron battery with a compact and more economical bimetallic one?

Installing a heating radiator

Before starting work, consider some of the nuances:

• Before replacing the battery, the water must be turned off only in the customer's apartment, and not in the whole house.

• Water should be blocked only by ZhEK employees who have the appropriate qualifications for this. Even when replacing the battery with your own hands, entrust this task to specialists. Otherwise, you risk leaving without water supply all the residents whose apartments are located along the riser.

• Battery replacement, ideally, should also be carried out by employees of the housing office or workers specially hired for this. If the removal and installation by the customer were carried out independently, then all responsibility for the serviceability of the system lies with him.

• Installation and replacement of the battery when using the pipe bending method and gas welding, instead of the usual installation system, must also be carried out by workers who have certain qualifications for high-level work.

Selection and installation of radiators of various types

On the market today are radiators made of cast iron, aluminum, steel, as well as bimetallic radiators. How to choose the right one among them?

Cast iron radiators

Modern cast iron radiators- these are no longer the bulky accordions that we used to see them in "Khrushchev" and most Soviet apartments. Today they look like flat panels with smoothed corners and presentable appearance. Due to its physical properties, cast iron, when heated, retains heat for a long time, gradually giving it to the room.

Advantages: improved heat transfer, service life of about 25-50 years. Disadvantages: heavy weight (one section of a cast-iron battery weighs about 8 kg), therefore, the installation of cast-iron heating radiators is impossible in a number of rooms, the walls of which are made of wood or, for example, drywall. The only option for mounting a radiator in such houses is through the wall. In addition, due to the rough surface and small gaps between sections, such radiators are difficult to clean.

Flaws: a lot of weight (one section of a cast-iron battery weighs about 8 kg), therefore, the installation of cast-iron heating radiators is not possible in a number of rooms, the walls of which are made of wood or, for example, drywall. The only option for mounting a radiator in such houses is through the wall. In addition, due to the rough surface and small gaps between sections, such radiators are difficult to clean.

Manufacturers: Model MS-140 or the so-called "accordion" is an eternal classic, well known to all of us. Transformed cast iron radiators can be found in the catalogs of VIADRUS (Czech Republic), ROCA (Spain) and FERROLI (Italy), as well as domestic manufacturers - CHAZ (Cheboksary Aggregate Plant) or MZOO (Belarus). Price: from $8 per section.

Aluminum radiators

By design, modern aluminum radiators differ little from cast iron ones. However, a significant difference between them is the weight of the radiator sections.

Advantages: good heat transfer performance, the presence of ventilation windows that evenly distribute warm air throughout the room, the weight of the sections (only 1 kg!), smooth surface, can be fixed on any surface.

Flaws: susceptibility to chemical composition water, pressure surges in the pipeline.

Manufacturers: Due to the fact that a small radiator can heat a relatively large area, on the market you can find models from 80-100 mm deep and center-to-center distance from 300 to 800 mm, and the number of sections in the radiator from 4 to 16. Italian-made models are more common: radiators firms FONDITAL, DECORAL, RAGALL, FARAL, as well as a number of radiators of domestic production - SMK (Stupino) and MMZiK (Mias). Price: from $12 per section.

Bimetal radiators

We can say that this type of radiator is a compromise between cast iron and aluminum. Externally, bimetallic radiators are difficult to distinguish from aluminum ones, however, such products are not sensitive to the composition of water and changes in pressure. Versatile design of such heating radiators directs hot water through steel pipes that give off heat aluminum panels and they heat the air in the room. Installation of a heating radiator of this type is the best option both in price and in terms of the physical properties of the product.

Advantages: weight, advanced battery design, good heat dissipation performance.

Flaws: not yet discovered.

Manufacturers: On the market you can find products mainly from Italian (SIRA, GLOBAL) and Czech manufacturers (ARMATHERMAL). Of the domestic radiators, RIFAR (Gai, Orenburg region), TsVELIT-R (Ryazan) and SANTEKHPROM (Moscow) are rightfully considered the best. Price: from $15 per section.

Steel radiators

Guided by the above general rules for the location of the radiator relative to the window, mark the mounting locations.

If necessary, cover the surface of the wall with heat-reflecting material and fix the brackets to the wall (be sure to use a level to determine the horizontal, as well as a tape measure to determine the length of the bracket entering the wall).

Fix the radiator to the brackets by placing their hooks between the battery sections.
Connect the radiator to a centralized or autonomous space heating system according to the selected connection scheme.

Installation of aluminum radiators can be made both in one- and two-pipe heating systems with horizontal or vertical pipelines. These radiators can also be used for space heating with natural and forced circulation of hot water. Today, the market can offer two options for aluminum radiators:

• Reinforced radiators with working pressure up to 16 atm. Such batteries are used for heating high-rise residential and non-residential buildings. For heating a private house, the use of this type of radiators is unjustified due to the high cost of the sections.

• European type of aluminum radiators, designed for space heating with autonomous heating systems. The maximum working pressure in such radiators is no more than 6 atm.

The installation kit for aluminum radiators consists of:

• automatic or manual air release valve (the so-called Mayevsky valve);
• plugs (right or left thread);
• sealing gaskets;
• racks or brackets;
• shut-off or thermostatic valves.

Installation of cast iron radiators

The installation of cast-iron radiators is basically the same as the installation of aluminum radiators. In the case of cast iron products, however, it is important not to overload the wall, and also pay more attention to torque moments. Cast iron radiators are recommended to be installed at a slight slope so that hot air does not accumulate inside the radiator (this can lead to a decrease in the heat transfer of the device).

Cast iron radiators also have an assembly system different from others: before installing such a radiator, you need to unscrew it, tighten the nipples and assemble the radiator together again. floor stands. At the same time, wall mounts are also performed, however, they perform only a supporting function.

Installation of bimetallic radiators

The advantages of installation bimetallic radiators, and not cast iron or aluminum in that they weigh relatively little and, provided that they are not inferior to aluminum in terms of heat transfer, bimetallic radiators are able to operate smoothly even at high pressure in the system. The installation method, as well as general recommendations for installing such heating devices, are indicated in the instructions for the product.

IMPORTANT! Pay attention to the manufacturer's recommendations regarding the use of pipes made of one or another material in combination with bimetallic radiators. So, for example, for most houses, only metal pipes are installed, and metal-plastic can only stand in private houses, whose heating system operates at high pressure.

$ The cost of installing heating radiators

The cost of installing a radiator will directly depend on the material of the product, the number of installed sections for one heating point, as well as the total number of heating points installed in the apartment. The total amount of installation costs will be affected by the connection scheme and the cost of the components necessary for the work. Of course, you can do such work with your own hands. However, this will place on you all responsibility for the system's performance, as well as for all possible negative consequences associated with its breakdown. So, how much does installing a radiator cost? On average, all work on the arrangement of one heating point in an apartment can drag on $ 40-50.

Radiator installation:

• Kyiv - 250-350 UAH. for a point;
• Moscow - 2,650-3,000 rubles. for a point.
• The cost of work on the supply or replacement of heating pipes is calculated separately.

Installation of radiators: VIDEO

Do-it-yourself installation of heating radiators: VIDEO

Performing independent installation of the heating system, among other issues, we need to decide at what distance from the wall to hang the radiator. Although this aspect may not seem important enough to some, in fact, the efficiency of the system largely depends on compliance with the installation parameters.

In our article, we will explain why it is necessary to monitor the distance from the battery to surfaces, and also give recommendations for installing the radiator on the wall or on the floor.

Importance of respecting installation parameters

Heating appliances, as their name implies, are installed in a room to heat it. At the same time, for most radiator-type models, heat radiation is characteristic of the entire surface, which imposes certain restrictions on the installation.

As a rule, the distance from the wall to the heating radiator is from 25 to 60 mm. This value is determined, in fact, by two parameters: the fundamental possibility of installation (the size of the window sill, the dimensions of the niche, etc.), as well as the power of the device.

Note!
The more powerful the device and the higher its heat transfer, the greater should be the gap between the rear surface and the wall.

Installing the battery close to the wall is not recommended, and here's why:

• Firstly, for efficient heat exchange between the radiator material and air, it is necessary to provide at least a minimum level of circulation. In a small gap, the air remains almost motionless, and therefore part of the heat is lost.
• Secondly, in the too narrow space between back wall the radiator and the wall surface are constantly kept at a high temperature. Because of this, the level of heat dissipation decreases, the battery wall overheats, and the device fails earlier.

Note!
This is important for both water radiators and electric heaters.
For the former, with constant overheating, corrosion is activated, for the latter, the risk of a short circuit increases.

• Finally, a narrow gap is very quickly clogged with dust, which can be extremely inconvenient to remove during cleaning.. If you leave the dust where it has accumulated, then overheating and problems with heat dissipation will begin to appear fairly quickly.

It is on the basis of these considerations that experts decide what distance between the wall and the radiator must be maintained. Well, how to put it into practice, we will tell below.

Mounting technique

wall variant

When doing installation work with your own hands, it is much easier to fix the battery on the wall. This task is less labor intensive than floor mounting, but at the same time all operations must be performed very high quality.

The installation process itself includes the following steps:

As you can see, the instructions are not complicated, but you need to control the quality of the work at each stage.

floor version

Sometimes the battery is too heavy to hang on the wall - there is a risk that the material simply can not stand it. In this case, installation is carried out using floor brackets. Yes, price similar products will be slightly higher than wall mounts, however, the margin of safety is incomparable.

The installation process itself involves the following steps:

• Choose a pair of brackets that have enough load capacity to support the weight of the battery.
• We install racks on the base of the floor, which we fix with anchors. We select the distance from the wall in such a way that the minimum gap between it and the mounted radiator is 60 mm.

Advice!
It is better to mount the floor brackets before pouring the screed - so we can mask the attachment point.

• We fill the screed, hiding the bases of the brackets and the caps of the fixing anchors.
• We put hooks on the racks, which we set to the desired height and fix with bolts. If the product package provides for this, we install metal gaskets that will protect the radiator material at the point of contact with the hook.
• We hang the radiator on the hooks, which we then carefully align.

Despite the great complexity of implementation, this system has obvious advantages: the load from the battery is transferred not to the wall, but to the floor, so the risk of loose fasteners is minimal.

Conclusion

It is possible to provide the distance between the wall and the heating radiator necessary for effective heat transfer in different ways. At the same time, it is important to make this gap sufficient so that the air in the gap circulates freely, making the heating of the room as efficient as possible. For a more detailed study of the technique, you should watch the video in this article.

s heating in the apartment is the right one and inexpensive way return heat to your apartment. In addition, this cannot be called a complicated process, it is only important to observe all the nuances of installation and installation rules.

Battery connection examples.

Preparatory work

Before starting work, you need to consider some of the nuances:

Connecting the battery can be entrusted to a qualified specialist who will do all the work quickly and efficiently.

1. It is not worth replacing the battery on your own, but it is better to entrust this matter to a specialist, who bears all responsibility for further malfunctions in the operation of the radiator. In addition, when replacing with your own hands, there are risks of leaving without water all the residents of the house, whose apartments are located along the riser. Water before work in the apartment should be blocked only by employees of the housing office who have the appropriate qualifications.
2. If the pipe bending method and gas welding work are used during installation and replacement, then the work must also be carried out by workers with certain qualifications for carrying out work with increased safety.

Radiator selection

There is a wide range of radiators on the market today, designed for different customers. The principle “the more expensive the better” does not always work here. You need to make your choice based on the following reasons:

• place of residence;
• heating system wiring;
• on how it will be necessary to install heating radiators;
• temperature regime in the heating system;
• accounting for what material was used in the production of pipes;
• the need for control elements and fittings;
• the location of the premises in the building.

Having made this analysis, you can proceed to the choice of battery.

Today, cast-iron radiators can look quite presentable, they can be decorated. Thus, they can easily fit into overall design premises.

Cast iron radiators modern type- these are no longer huge accordions that were in the Soviet apartment, but flat panels with smoothed corners and a presentable appearance. Having good physical heating properties, cast iron retains heat for a long time and gradually releases it into the room. These radiators are long term service, 20-50 years. The main disadvantage is the large weight (one section weighs about 8 kg), so it is impossible to mount them correctly in rooms where the walls are made of wood, drywall. Having a rough surface, they are not very easy to clean.

Aluminum radiators differ little in design from cast iron ones, the only difference is the weight of the sections (1 kg). Also, these devices have good qualities heat transfer, smooth surface, ventilation windows evenly distribute air in the room, they can be fixed on any surface. The main disadvantage is the easy perception of the chemical composition of water and pressure surges in the pipeline.

Bimetal radiators are a compromise solution between cast iron and aluminum. Outwardly, they almost do not differ from aluminum ones, but they are not sensitive to the composition of water and pressure surges. They have good heat transfer performance, are easy to install and inexpensive.

Steel radiators have a panel appearance and a relief surface. Have various possibilities connections, good thermal properties. No major deficiencies were identified.

Radiator Installation Rules

Before replacing, it is necessary to coordinate with the specialists the installation scheme, which will allow you to correctly perform installation work and effectively heat the room. It is necessary to follow the sequence of actions:

1. Turn off the water in the apartment and at a specific site.
2. Drain the water from the area to be replaced.
3. Blow out the pipes and remove the remaining water.
4. Install a new battery according to the installation instructions and the manufacturer's recommendations.
5. After installation, test the system for leaks and operation of the radiator sections.

Attention! When choosing a radiator, consider the temperature heating power, the area for normal heating with a certain number of sections, and the operating pressure of the coolant.

Rules for installing a radiator in accordance with SNiP

Installation of radiators in the room must be carried out in accordance with SNiP 3.05.01-85.

There must be at least 2 cm from the radiator to the wall.

1. The norm for installing radiators correctly involves mounting the battery relative to the center of the window: the center of the window and the battery must match, with an error of no more than 2 cm.
2. The width of the battery should be equal to 50-70% of the width of the window sill.
3. The height of the battery above the floor should not be more than 12 cm from the finished floor, the distance from the top edge of the battery to the window sill should not be more than 5 cm.
4. The distance from the radiator to the wall is 2-5 cm. An exception may be special processing walls with heat-reflecting material.

Attention! Do not install the radiator too close to the floor and wall, as this affects the heat transfer performance. In single-pipe heating systems, it is impossible to use more sections than before. In systems with artificial water circulation, if the number of sections is more than 24, a versatile method of connecting heating devices must be used during installation.

Rules for installing aluminum radiators

1. Correctly assemble the radiator by screwing the radiator caps with gaskets, install thermostatic fittings, stop valves, Mayevsky valve.
2. Guided by the general rules for the location of the radiator relative to the window, mark the attachment points.
3. If necessary, cover the surface of the wall with heat-reflecting material and attach the brackets to the wall.
4. Fasten the radiator to the brackets, placing the hooks between the sections, and connect it to a centralized or room.

It is possible to mount aluminum radiators both in one-pipe and in two-pipe heating systems with vertical and horizontal pipelines. Today's market can offer two types of aluminum radiators: reinforced radiators with pressure up to 16 atm., which are used for heating high-rise buildings, and European aluminum radiators no more than 6 atm., used for heating in autonomous systems heating.

Rules for the installation of cast iron and bimetallic radiators

The process is not much different from the installation of aluminum. It is important here not to overload the wall, but it is recommended to install them at a slight slope so that hot air does not accumulate inside the battery, which leads to low heat transfer from the device.

Before installation, you need to unscrew the radiator correctly, tighten the nipples, and put everything back together again. IN wooden houses, having a weaker wall structure, it is provided for mounting not on brackets, but on floor stands, while mounting on the wall has a supporting function.

The heat supply system is an integral part of the engineering systems installed in every home. And its arrangement must be treated with special attention. This also applies to the assembly of pipelines, and hanging heating radiators. After all, even a small malfunction can lead to global consequences, so it is important to know how to properly hang a heating radiator.

Work on the installation of radiators must begin with the definition of their connection scheme. In practice, 3 methods are used, they are defined by building codes:

1. Side. They are used very often, since it is he who provides the maximum thermal return.
2. Diagonal. Most effective when connecting long heaters.
3. Bottom connection. They are used for heat supply systems from pipes, which are placed directly under the floor covering.

Instructions for installing heating radiators

After the connection diagrams are determined and heating batteries are purchased, it is necessary to find and carefully study SNiP 3.05.01 - 85. It sets out the requirements for installing heating radiators. Most manufacturing companies attach detailed instructions for installing heaters to their products. If you follow the requirements of regulatory and operational documentation, then there should be no problems with installing radiators.

The main requirement is compliance with the dimensions of fixing the heating battery relative to the floor and wall. Otherwise, the heated air will circulate poorly, and the efficiency of the thermal device will drop dramatically. The requirements of regulatory documentation determine that the distance to inner surface window sill and to the floor covering should not be less than 100 mm. Practice shows that 120 mm will be optimal.

Distance from inner wall niches to the rear surface of the radiator should not be less than ¾ of the depth of the mounted battery. If the specified dimensions are not observed, then, as already noted, the efficiency of the heat flow will decrease. If the heater is not mounted in a niche located under the window, but directly next to the wall, then the marked distances should not be less than 200 mm. Neglect of the established indicators will lead to difficulty in movement warm air and accumulation of dust on the back wall.

What tool is needed for installation work

In order to carry out the work of installing a heating battery, it is necessary to carry out a little preparatory work and prepare a tool.

Useful for installation:

• perforator;
• drill (its diameter is determined by the size of the dowel into which the bracket will be screwed);
• roulette;
• building level;
• locksmith tool.

The procedure for assembling a heating radiator

Before starting the installation of the battery, it is necessary to determine the installation location of the fasteners. The number of fasteners is determined by the dimensions of the heater. But even when installing a radiator with minimum dimensions, the number of attachment points should not be less than three.

The next step is to install the battery mounting brackets. To increase the reliability of the system, dowels or cement mortar can be used. Work on installing the battery must begin with checking the complete set of the radiator. Then you can proceed to install the components (plugs, fasteners, adapters) on the heating device.

The requirements of regulatory documentation determine that automatic air vents must be installed on heating radiators. If possible, it is advisable to use a Mayevsky crane.

Crane "Mayevsky"

In addition to the installed devices on the heating radiator, it makes sense to mount at the inlet and outlet Ball Valves. Their presence will avoid difficulties with dismantling if necessary to repair it. By closing the taps, the radiator can be safely removed.

It will not be superfluous to install thermostats. Their presence will allow you to regulate the heat supply to the heating devices, which will create a comfortable temperature in each room.

After installing all the devices and fittings, you can connect the pipelines. The method of their connection to the radiator (traditional welding, crimping or threaded connection) depends on the scheme for including it in the heat supply system. The type of connection between the pipes and the battery is determined by the material from which they are made.

On last step the heating system needs to be tested. It must be remembered that during the tests, pipes and radiators are supplied with pressure 1.5-2 times higher than the nominal pressure. It is desirable to maintain the system under high pressure for some time. This will help installers see how pipe joints and radiator connections behave.

Important! The coolant must be supplied both during tests and when the system is started, gradually opening the tap. Otherwise, a phenomenon such as water hammer can be provoked, which can lead to the destruction of the components of the thermal energy supply system.

After mounting the radiator on the installed fasteners, it is necessary to check the correctness of its placement in the horizontal and vertical planes.

It is allowed to raise the edge of the radiator, on which the air vent is located. This will ensure that the air that has entered the system is collected at the highest possible point, and its release will be carried out quickly and with maximum efficiency.

But a change in level of more than one centimeter is unacceptable, as well as a reverse slope. In this case, the formation of an air pocket is guaranteed, and the supply of coolant further along the pipeline will be limited or stopped.

Advice! Almost all heating companies require installers to install only on pre-prepared walls. That is, the surface must be flat and clean. This will allow for the correct marking of places for fasteners.

The heating radiator is hung on two hooks (brackets), which are located in the upper part, and the third must be installed as a support for the lower edge of the device. The installer must remember that the number of brackets is determined by the weight and length of the battery.

Types of radiators

Structurally, all heating radiators are similar, but the essential difference is in the material from which they are made. There are the following types of heating batteries:

• bimetallic,
• steel,
• cast iron,
• aluminum.

Aluminum are distinguished by good heat dissipation and relative lightness, so it makes sense to install them in houses with wooden walls. Their disadvantage is susceptibility to water pressure drops in the system and its chemical composition.

Cast iron are deprived of these disadvantages, however, their large weight imposes some restrictions. In addition, they are distinguished by a long period of operation (about 50 years).

The remaining two types are considered a compromise between cast iron and aluminum radiators. They have a relatively small mass and good performance characteristics.

For private houses, if you have your own well, it is possible to install heating radiators of any type, but bimetallic ones will be the most convenient in installation.

Site selection and preparation for installation

To install heating batteries, craftsmen from housing departments or specialized companies are usually involved, but this operation can also be done by hand. When implementing installation work it is necessary to take into account the location of the radiator relative to the window and the floor, its heat transfer depends on it.

Installation of heating radiators should take place exactly in the middle of the window, the deviation from the center should not exceed 2 cm. Its width should be proportional to the width of the window sill and be 50-75% of its size.

It is equally important to observe the distance between the floor and the heating device. It should not be more than 12 cm. At the same time, the gap between the upper point of the battery and the lower edge of the window sill should not be less than 5 cm. And between the wall and the radiator - in the range of 2-5 cm.

If the radiator is installed in own house, then it should be borne in mind that it should be preceded by preparatory work:

• overlapping water;
• draining water from dismantled parts of the heating system;
• pressure testing of pipes (cleaning of liquid with compressed air);
• dismantling the replacement radiator.

Radiator connection diagrams

Do-it-yourself installation of radiators requires a properly selected wiring diagram. It depends on the location of the inlet and outlet holes for the coolant in it. In total, there are three schemes for connecting radiators:

• cross (heat loss 2%);
• lower (12-13%);
• single-pipe (19-20% loss), also called "Leningrad".

The choice of connection scheme depends on the type of heating: one-pipe or two-pipe. The first option is most common in apartment buildings. The principle of such a scheme is that the incoming and cooled coolant move along the same circuit. With a two-pipe system, the cooled coolant moves for subsequent heating through a separate pipe.

In private houses with a two-pipe heating system, the most popular is bottom diagram connecting a radiator - it is characterized by relative ease of installation and low heat loss.

Features of connecting and mounting radiators

When installing radiators with your own hands, it is impossible to avoid certain difficulties. But you can minimize them by following the instructions and guidance provided by our experts.

Aluminum radiators

The installation of aluminum heating batteries requires assembling the sections together by screwing in a plug with gaskets and radiator plugs, and then mounting the Mayevsky faucet and thermostatic valves. Installed aluminum radiator on special brackets, previously fixed on the wall.

Cast iron radiators

Fundamentally, the installation of cast iron batteries is not much different from aluminum batteries, but it is necessary to take into account the weight of the radiator and the strength of the wall. This is especially true for multi-section cast-iron radiators, their weight can exceed 100 kg.

In wooden or dilapidated houses with fragile walls, it is more expedient to install cast iron not on brackets, but on special mounting legs; they can be sold separately or together with a battery. It is also desirable to use additional props.

To increase heat transfer, the batteries are installed at an inclination of about 5 degrees. It is recommended to make a slope in such a way that air accumulates at the valve, that is, this angle should be set a little higher. Before installation, it is necessary to unscrew the cast-iron radiators in order to check the tightness of the connection of the nipples between the connecting pipes of the sections.

The bimetallic radiator, despite the rather high price, is in great demand. Such popularity of batteries of this type is explained by their high strength and immunity to the chemical composition of the coolant. But they also have some nuances during installation. Installation is recommended to be carried out in a protective factory film, which will prevent mechanical damage.

Wall mounting is done with brackets. Due to its lightness, the radiator can be fixed both on the main concrete wall, so on drywall construction. In the first case, the brackets are mounted to the wall with dowels and cement mortar, and in the second - by means of double-sided mounting fittings.

When installing aluminum and bimetallic radiators, it is imperative to provide for the installation of a valve (Mayevsky) to bleed air. It should be located at the top bimetallic battery. It can be either mechanical or automatic. Each model contains it in the configuration, or its installation is provided in the design.

When installing, it is better to use an automatic valve, as it allows you to remove the air accumulated in the battery without human intervention, thereby extending the life of the device.

Outcome

Regardless of the type of radiator, do-it-yourself installation must take place in strict accordance with the attached instructions. Having drawn up a clear action plan, having calculated the installation site and using our advice, you can easily install the heating battery yourself. If you decide to entrust the work to a specialist, then thanks to the information received, you will be able to control the process and participate in the preparation of the plan, which will help to avoid problems and shortcomings later.

Do-it-yourself installation of heating radiators video