How to cut the dobor along. Installation of extensions and trim from MDF - my experience in the work. Installation of dobors on self-tapping screws

What are add-ons? Why are they needed during installation interior doors? What are the extensions by type of edge and method of fastening? How are fees set? These and other questions will be discussed in detail in this article.

We usually tell our clients "If your wall thickness is more than 7 cm, then you will need extensions". To independently determine whether extensions are needed for your doorway, you should correctly measure the doorways.

How to determine the number of donations?

Almost all door manufacturers sell extensions in standard widths - 100, 150 and 200 mm, and the door frame is almost always 70 mm wide. All this to the fact that before installing the extensions, they must be sawn along to give them the desired width.

For example, if you have a wall thickness of 90 mm, then it turns out that you will definitely need another 25 mm wide extension to the box. (about 5 mm is needed to insert the extension into the groove of the box) But extensions of this width are not sold, so we buy an extension 100 mm wide and saw off a strip of 25 mm along each edge of the extension.

As a result, we will have one more strip of extension (middle) with a width of 45 mm (5 mm was spent on cuts), which, theoretically, can also be used on the top of the box, but in practice this is not done, especially if the extensions have edged edges, i.e. e. the end of the dobor has the same coating as the front part of the dobor.

Dobors, without edging, have, basically, only veneered doors. veneer (a thin cut of wood) is not an elastic brittle material and it is impossible to bend it at a right angle and not break it. Therefore, almost all veneered extensions do not have an edge. Dobors with artificial coatings (Laminate, PVC, Eco-veneer, Laminatin,) have edged ends. In addition, like a door frame or architraves, extensions can also be simple and telescopic.

Types of extensions on the end

We return to our example with cutting extensions with a wall thickness of 90 mm. For this case, you will need 1.5 sticks of extensions. From one stick (board) of the extension, we make two extensions, sawing it into pieces, and from 0.5 extension we also saw off a piece of the desired width and put it on top of the box.

As a result, it turns out that if we have a wall thickness of 70 to 90 mm, then we will not need a complete set of extensions (2.5 sticks), but 1.5 sticks 100 mm wide will be enough. If the wall thickness is from 90 to 165 mm, then a complete set of extensions is required - 2.5 sticks 100 mm wide.

Table 1: Complete set of extensions for doorways under interior doors. The required number of extensions for each case of doorway wall thickness.

Standard trim widths

Telescopic extensions and their features

As mentioned above, there are extensions with and without an edge. There is also a third type of edge: the end of the extension has a slot. These are telescopic dobors, which are designed for the installation of telescopic architraves.

What are the features of telescopic extensions? For example, if the thickness of the wall in the doorway is 800 mm, then it becomes possible to save money: buy doors with telescopic accessories, and it will be possible not to buy extensions. we will close the missing 10 mm with a telescopic casing due to the fact that it can be pulled out of the groove of the frame by 5 mm on each side of the door frame.

Although telescopic moldings cost almost one and a half times more than simple ones, in our case we not only exclude the cost of extensions, but also the cost of their installation. In addition, if the telescopic extension has to be cut in half, then it will be more difficult to attach it to the box, because. you will have to prepare a box for additional, which will also entail additional costs.

Some manufacturers make extensions one-sided, i.e. cutout for telescopic casing on one side only. When cutting the extension to the desired width, this of course facilitates the work of attaching the extension to the box, but the downside is that such extensions will always have to be bought in complete set by quantity, because do not split them in two.

If the walls are wide?

Typically, a doorway brick houses or in bearing wall may be more than 300 mm thick. In this case, it is better to ennoble the doorway under the wall (paste over with wallpaper or paint) and not put extensions. The downside is that the unprotected corners of this opening run the risk of being quickly damaged. Therefore, extensions are installed in the entire opening and ennobled with platbands on both sides. There are two ways to solve this problem:

1. Close the end of the doorway with solid extensions. Many door manufacturers make Wall panels or additional shields. In fact, these are the same extensions about a meter wide. In addition, under the order, you can order extensions of the desired width, but only in multiples of 100 mm. IN last resort you can buy wall panels from another manufacturer, choosing the color.

2. Close the end of the doorway with docked extensions. If, for example, the wall thickness is 30 cm, then you can take two sets of extensions 10 and 15 cm wide and join them by sawing one of the sets in width. It is especially good to join telescopic extensions with a glazing bead.

Installation of extensions

Extras are installed when collecting the box. At the beginning, we assemble the box, and then we attach the extensions sawn to the desired width to the box using special mounting plates short screws. Thus, the extensions with the door frame become one. The whole structure is mounted in the doorway.

Put door frame separately and then wide extensions it is not recommended separately because it will be problematic to securely fasten the extensions to the box. If glued or not fixed at all, then over time, the extensions from the box can move away, forming a gap. Separately, you can install extensions with a width of not more than 50 mm.

Now I will install the extension on this door. The dobor will be telescopic. For those who don't know, here it is in the cut.

Here is such a groove. There is a groove in the doborny bar. And on the cashing there is such a spike. Cashing has such a profile.

What is it for? That's when we put an addition, then the cash is inserted into it. And we can adjust the distance within this pass. About half an inch.

Now, if we have, for example, this distance is not 8 centimeters, that's how it is here. And there from 5 to 15 millimeters, we can cash out right away without any extra. This box is certainly not telescopic. This door has been around for a long time. This simple box. In general, in telescopic boxes there are passes here. Immediately, so that the cash can be mounted there.

Where do I start installing the add-on. First I saw off in height. First, I end up the bottom, then here I make a mark with a clerical knife and saw off 1 millimeter shorter.

Then, I take a square and measure this distance from the box to the edge. And add more depth to the groove. In this case, it is 1 centimeter. And I mark up reverse side. Here is the line.

Well, here we must take into account that it is necessary to saw off from the side where it will be inserted into the box. Because this region cannot be spoiled. Well, here I expect the additional plank to be somewhere a couple of millimeters less than to the plane of the wall itself. Because it doesn't matter here. I can adjust these 2-3, even 5 millimeters with this cashing spike. If the usual additional strips, then on the contrary, I make the width of the additional strip 1 millimeter larger. For what? That cashing in any case is enough. And you need to measure. The walls are not always level, so I measure at several points. Well, about 4. Up, around here and down here.

If the wall is approximately flat, you can at 3 points. And I adjust, thus, the left and right additional bar. Then I mount the top one on top of them, right on them. I saw off the whole thing with a jigsaw. You can use a circular saw with some kind of parquet or mini-circular. top bar, I mark it like this.

Here I put it like this so that this edge of it is even before the beginning of the groove. Here I also mark out, right in the groove. Knife once and for all. Then I turn it over and paste it like this. And here we already make labels, as it were, in width. Because there is a different left edge and right. This is how we make labels. Here and here. Like this.

And then I draw and cut.

Dobor installation

So, now that all our typesetting strips are prepared, sawn off, we put them in place.

Here, so that the plane coincides. I check it with my fingers.

So, there is a right angle and up to the groove. Here's what we get.

Like this. Why do you have to do it this way? So that when we insert cash, nothing here sticks out or interferes. And this corner will tighten up with us, that's how it will be. Here he is.

It should be. This plane also coincides. Here she is. Here too here. Everything matches.

In the case when, for example, a gap is formed in this corner. Well, there is no foam, for example, to rest. Here I am drilling and screwing screws. They are, as it were, an emphasis, and they prop up this whole corner. That's all. Now we will mount them. To do this, first I moisten this case so that the foam disperses better. It expands more evenly.

Because foam expands when exposed to moisture. So, we take foam. And with such cakes I go through the entire perimeter.

Now I take masking tape wide from me. And I fix the gain. I make sure that there is a right angle.

And so around the perimeter. This is how I recorded it all. After about one hour, everything can be withdrawn and cashed in. I will do the same on this side as well. From the edge and from above. Everything, dobory will be ready. This mount is sufficient. There is no load here. No mechanical fasteners are required here. Here is the whole set ready. You can say now it will freeze and that's it. Propenil, fixed.

Why do I do these dots, and not all over. Two reasons. First, saving foam. Secondly, it is a guarantee that the extensions will not be squeezed out by an arc. Because the foam has room to expand into free space. That's all. The addition has been made. This is done for a short time within 10-15 minutes. Now I will make an addition on the other door. During this time, the foam will cool down and it will be possible to start cashing out.

Cashing out installation

Here our dobros froze. I cut the foam, removed the tape. Now I'm going to cash out. But I will put it here at an angle of 45 degrees.

In general, telescopic cashing, as a rule, is cut like this at a right angle here. And from the top, the cash goes in here, like this.

But, since cashing is already installed on this door like this. So this also needs to be done on this side. How to mark up. This is how I take it and here I put a half mark with a knife. Like this. Everything, I cut off here and here.

I put the top one first. Then I also substitute the vertical ones overlapping like this. So here I put it and make a mark. This is how it stands, for example. And I times her.

So I put a label. Here she is, barely visible. And I cut everything. First, of course, you need to trim the bottom, and then I applied liquid nails right here on this edge. Right here. Here on this road edge, like this.

Here, here and all the way. And I'll slap her. Because if you glue the entire groove. This glue will fill everywhere, and it will be almost impossible to remove it. It is already tight there and you just need to fix it a little bit. You can apply glue here. On the wall straight ahead, a few points. It would be enough.

We insert everything. Maybe a little between them.

We mount everything.

So, here's what we ended up with. Here is such a corner.

Here you can tint with a pencil so that this seam is not visible. Strongly will not rush into the gas. And here is everything. Everything is clear and beautiful. I'll show you how to markup. Here I put it, the knife like this.

All. There is a label. Now we take the label like this, here. And at a right angle we hold the knife and carry it. That's it, now you need to cut diagonally. Everything goes to the market. The truth here, due to the fact that there is a groove, it becomes crooked. I just put a piece of wood here according to the thickness of this distance.

Here I put it and it melts evenly. And I'm sawing off.

Well, here's what we ended up with. Such is the gain. Black, hard to see, well, nothing. Now I'll show you up close.

Everything is tight, everything is smooth, no gaps. Here is the node. Everything, the door is absolutely ready.

All rights to the video belong to: Roman Zaitsev

Why do you need extras and what is it? Before answering this question, you need to remember a little, and young people to study history. As it was before? Each enterprise producing building materials strictly complied with the current state standards for its products. The sizes of bricks, blocks, panel slabs, etc. were regulated. e. Building organizations had standards for the thickness of the plaster. This allowed woodworking companies to produce joinery (windows and doors) with standard door frame dimensions. After their installation in the openings, no additional fitting with trims was required.

Today everything is different. The vast majority of enterprises are guided not by state standards, but by their own specifications. This has led to the fact that the same brick or block from different manufacturers can have different sizes. Now no one can determine the thickness of the walls with certainty, make several standard sizes door and window frames is not possible. The solution was found simple and effective. The box is made with the minimum allowable width, which guarantees its physical strength, and the missing width, depending on the thickness of the walls, is made up by installing extensions.

Due to the fact that most modern door frames are made of MDF in order to reduce costs, the same material is also used during the manufacture of extensions. There are, however, door frames and extensions made of natural wood, but they are rare and much more expensive. Principles of installation of wooden and MDF extensions are no different.

Extensions - ordinary MDF boards, have a width of 100 mm to 200 mm, are produced by door manufacturers, have the same color and texture as the doors. According to the constructive device, they can be ordinary (simple) and adjustable. Simple extensions rest against the L-shaped cutout in the sidewalls of the box, adjustable with the box have a tenon / groove connection. This allows you to precisely adjust the protrusion after taking the preliminary dimensions and preparing the extensions. In addition, the presence of the connection somewhat simplifies and speeds up the foaming process.

We will look at installation methods for both types of extensions, starting with simple ones.

Installation of simple extensions

Simple extensions can be joined with foam (the most fast way), studs and self-tapping screws (the longest way). Choose for yourself the method that seems most appropriate to you, experienced builders install dobors only on the foam. The method of installing extensions has almost no effect on the reliability of fastening the platbands, and the work is greatly simplified and accelerated.

Adjustable extensions are installed only on the foam.

Measurement and preparation of additions

The technological task of the extensions is to serve as a platform for attaching trim. In order for the architraves to lie correctly, the end of the extensions must lie on the same line with the plane of the wall. Measurements should be made on an already installed door frame. Dimensioning is done in the following ways.

Now we need to find out the height of the left and right elements and the length of the horizontal element. At the top of the box, the extensions are connected with the letter P, keep this in mind when taking measurements.

You can cut trim boards hand saw, jigsaw, portable electric saw or on stationary machine. The latter option is preferable - work is much accelerated, their accuracy is increased and the risks of chipping are minimized.

First, cut the blanks along the length, then on each make width marks at the ends. Draw a straight, even line and carefully cut off the excess. It is better to draw a straight line with the same extensions; you don’t have to look for even and long wooden slats. At the place of the cut, you need to remove a small chamfer, so the board will fit snugly against the door frame.

Video - Measurement of extensions

All elements are prepared, you can proceed to their installation. Let's start with the most difficult method and finish with the simplest.

Installation of dobors on self-tapping screws

Step 1. On the extensions, make a sweat under the screws.

The thickness of the MDF boards is 10 millimeters; for melting, you need to take a drill with a diameter of no more than 9 millimeters. The exact diameter should be consistent with the diameter of the head of the self-tapping screws. The diameter of the caps, in turn, varies with their length. The length of the self-tapping screws is selected so that they enter the door frame for two or three turns, otherwise it may crack.

It is desirable that the drills were under the tree, they have thin needle protrusions at the end, which allow you to more accurately center the hole and prevent the drill from moving during drilling.

Important. Always leave at least 1.5 mm of board thickness on the side of the front part of the extension, there is nothing to worry about if the hole for the flush completely drills out the wall of the extension from the back side. The depth of sweating is regulated by the length of the self-tapping screws, the main condition, as we have already mentioned, is that they must be screwed into the box by no more than two or three turns. In total, it is enough to install 4 screws for the long vertical part, make the same number of holes.

Step 2 Drill holes for self-tapping screws. The diameter of the drill must match the diameter of the screws. Drilling these holes is somewhat more difficult, you need a "keep" eye and skill.

How to drill them?

1. It is better to drill holes on the reverse side of the holes for sweat.
   Very important. Drilling will not need to be perpendicular to the plane of the board, but at a slight angle. This is done so that the self-tapping screw has a direction towards the center of the door frame - the possible risks of its cracking on the front part are reduced. If the end of the self-tapping screw comes out from the back of the box, there is nothing to worry about.

   

2. Place the drill perpendicular to the plane of the addition, exactly opposite the hole for the sweat.
3. Drill a few millimeters deep, turn off the drill. Set the drill under right angle and continue drilling until its end appears in the sweat hole.

   

   

We have already mentioned that this method is the most difficult, we do not recommend using it. But, if someone has convinced you, then we will continue to talk about him. Prepare all the elements of the add-ons in the described way.

Step 3 Insert self-tapping screws into the holes and scroll them until the ends appear on the opposite side.

Step 4 First screw the vertical extensions, then the horizontal one. If the self-tapping screw is tight, do not apply much force, unscrew it a few turns, and then tighten it again.

Step 5 Check the position of the extensions, if there are places with a loose fit to the door frame - press them with any materials at hand.

Step 6 Prevent bending of the extensions with mounting foam.

To do this, you can fix them in two ways: with construction paper tape or spacers. Construction tape has high tensile strength in the perpendicular direction and calmly holds the force of the foam. If the wall is smooth - use carpenter's tape, stick it to the extension and the wall in three or four places on the vertical elements and in two or three on the horizontal.

If the tape does not stick to the wall, use spacers. They can be made from wooden slats. The length of the rail should be 1÷2 centimeters shorter than the width of the doors. In the future, the spacers are pressed with various linings.

Step 7 Fill the gap between the wall and the extensions with mounting foam.

Very important. It is rare to find responsible builders who, before foaming any structures, clean them of dust and wet the surfaces. And the foam has very weak adhesion to dry surfaces, there is nothing to say about dust and dirt. Try to touch the fresh foam with a wet finger - then you won’t wash it off with anything.

For foaming, use any foam, extensions are not a door frame, they do not carry any load, you can use the cheapest brands. The main thing - do not leave passes. If the gap between the wall and the extension is narrow and deep - fit on the nozzle various extension cords. For very thin gaps, we used cocktail tubes - we taped them with tape to the existing outlet from the foam can and worked. This design, however, is a one-time use, but you don’t need more.

Step 8 Wait at least 24 hours for the foam to cool, cut off the excess with a sharp mounting knife. Check by tapping the stability of the position of the extensions. Problem areas are found - add foam to them.

Video - Installing dobors on self-tapping screws

Everything, on this work on the installation of extensions is completed, you can start working with

Installation of dobors on carnations

In this section, we will talk about another way to measure extensions. They need to be inserted in turn into the seats of the door frame and, using the sharp side of the rule, draw a wall line.

You must act carefully. If you inserted additional elements in the position in which they will be fixed, then the marked line must be symmetrically transferred to the other side of the board and cut off only along it. But you can insert the board in a rotated form, then the line will immediately be in its place. Further, all cutting operations are identical to those described above.

Step 1. With a drill of small diameter (should correspond to the diameter of the finishing nails no more than one millimeter), drill holes at a distance of approximately 20 cm in the end of the extension adjacent to the door frame.

In the photo - the finishing nail next to the finisher

Important. Carefully drill, keep the drill strictly in a vertical position. The depth of the holes should be 3 ÷ 5 millimeters less than the length of the studs.

Step 2 Insert the nails into the drilled holes as far as they will go. Before this, you need to bite off the caps with wire cutters, the carnations are inserted with the sharp end outward.

Step 3 Carefully insert each element of the extension into its place in the door frame in turn. Using a hammer, drive the sharp protruding ends of the nails into the door frame through the wooden gasket. Do not rush, before fixing, firmly press the additional element to the side of the protruding seat of the box. If you are inattentive and miss the gap, you will have to remove the additional element and start all over again or seal the gap with sealant to match the door. Both options are highly undesirable. In the first case, because you have to pull out the “wrong” nail and drill a hole for it in another place. The fact is that the wrong mount is a few tenths of a millimeter from the right one. And in this case, the nail will never make a new hole for itself, but will always slip into the existing one. In the second case, any sealing of cracks with sealant will not go unnoticed and will indicate the low professionalism of the performer.

Step 4 Wedge the extensions on the reverse side, with tape or spacers, fix their position from bursting with foam.

Step 5 Clean the surfaces from dust and dirt, moisten them with an ordinary water spray (spray gun).

Step 6 Blow out the gap with sealant over the entire plane. After the foam has cooled, carefully cut off the protruding part.

Video - Installing dobors on carnations

We deliberately left the easiest way for last, this will give you the opportunity to compare all the described methods and make right choice. Marking and cutting out elements is no different from the first two.

And then everything is simple. Put the extensions in place, wedge them with inside until the surfaces are completely pressed against seats door frame, with tape or spacers, prevent bursting and foam after cleaning and wetting the surfaces. As you can see, there are no steps, drillings and clogging. Why do we recommend using this method?

1. The strength of such an installation is no different from complex methods.
2. You never run the risk of ruining the extensions while drilling holes or driving in studs for one simple reason - there are no holes or studs.
3. During the time that the “big” specialist drills holes for screws or nails, you yourself will completely install the extensions on two door frames with the same quality of work.

We compared how much less technological operations, how much less risk of damage to extensions and the door frame, and how much more benefits? Now make a decision.

Video - Installing foam extensions

Installation of adjustable extensions

Adjustable extensions have several advantages.

1. The connection of the elements in a tongue/groove allows you to tightly press the elements with visible planes. The appearance of cracks is completely excluded, there is no need to wedge them.

   

2. The extensions can be moved in the door frame up/down or out/in. These few "free" millimeters allow you to fine-tune their location and compensate for possible mistakes during measurement or sawing.

   

   

Such extensions also have a drawback - they cannot be installed without a stationary circular. The fact is that only on a stationary circular saw can a spike of the desired thickness and depth be cut on the additional elements.

How are they installed?

Step 1. Take measurements, while taking into account the depth of the groove on the door frame. You can measure it and add it to the obtained width values, or you can take a piece thin plywood or a ruler, insert into the groove and in this position measure the width of the extensions. Take measurements in several places around the entire perimeter of the doorway, the walls are often uneven.

Step 2 Designate the left and right extensions and transfer the dimensions to the blanks.

Important. In order to further simplify the installation of all elements, reduce their width by 2÷3 millimeters. This stock will make it possible to move the extensions in the grooves in the right direction.

Step 3 Cut the blanks to length and width.

Step 4 Set stop circular saw tenon width, raise the saw table in such a way that the desired tenon height is provided. Put the extension on the edge and carefully cut out the spike.

Step 5. In the same way, prepare all the remaining elements of the extensions.

Further, everything is simple. Install them in place, align them at the joints and along the plane of the wall. To prevent cracks, stick construction tape to the wall and extensions, clean the surfaces from dirt and dust, moisten them and foam them. The presence of a tongue/groove connection eliminates the need for wedging, the extensions keep their size perfectly and are tightly pressed against the door frame.

Video - Installing adjustable extensions

During the installation of extensions, do not create unnecessary problems and difficulties for yourself, use only the third most in a simple way- Foam mounting. Why?

1. Firstly, pull-out efforts never act on the extensions; in any case, they will reliably hold the platbands.
2. Secondly, the studs only play the role of reliably pressing the extensions to the door frame, and do not keep them from tearing out. Ordinary wedges made of foam, paper and other improvised materials cope with the same task no worse.
3. Thirdly, any "drilling" in thin boards of extensions and in the door frame can cause cracks to appear on the front side. You will have to change the dobor or repair the box.

And the first, and the second, and the third nobody needs. Why are there the first two installation methods? We think this is one of effective methods undeserved increase in wages to unscrupulous builders. They importantly declare to customers what kind of complex work you have to pay the appropriate amount.

It is not necessary to nail the horizontal addition to the vertical ones in the corners of the joints, it is already perfectly pressed with foam. If you are worried, press it in these places with any wedges. Extra studs in thin extensions - an extra chance to see a hole on the front, and this is a direct marriage in the work.

Do not pinch planks together

You can find advice before installing extensions in the door frame to connect all the elements with the letter P. We do not recommend doing this for two reasons.

1. First, it does not reduce, but increases the installation time.
2. Secondly, the connection is “flimsy”, during the movement and installation of the structure, the carnations will still move away a little and a gap will appear between the horizontal and vertical extensions. In any case, it will need to be eliminated on the spot.
3. Thirdly, the design may warp so much during transportation that the studs will violate the integrity front side dobor. This is a very unpleasant situation; it will never be possible to repair a crack “to its original state”. Experienced Master always sees the problem.

And the last tip. Sometimes there are times when you have to invite the help of a master. You install several door extensions yourself, and the master must install several. Perhaps you want to finish this stage of the construction of the bath as soon as possible, or there is not enough time, the vacation is ending, but you want to finish the decoration of the bath as soon as possible, the reasons may be different.

The master has come - look what tools he has. If they are dirty, it immediately catches your eye that they are not looked after - refuse the services of such a master. If among his tools you saw sealants for gaps, shake the hand of the “craftsman” and send him back. modern doors from MDF must be installed so accurately that the presence of cracks only indicates the carelessness, inexperience or irresponsibility of the master.

Video - Installing an extension on the door

You may come face to face with the problem that standard openings are only suitable for standard doors. There is also a situation where the standard box does not match the walls in. You can close the gap with mounting foam, and then cover the opening with plaster for a long and tedious time. But it's better to make things much simpler. Use extensions (extenders) that increase the size of the door frame.

Dobors are panels that have a thickness of 5 to 400 mm, and you can make more dobors large sizes. They are vertical and horizontal. The extensions will ennoble the appearance of the doorway, giving solidity to the entire structure, and will also greatly facilitate the repair process. They need to be selected in the same color as your door with a door frame

Installing extensions is easy. If you have special grooves in the door frame, you can safely take an extension with a 10 mm wide lath. But in the case of a slotless door, any additional strips in width will do. Dobors are usually attached to one side of the door. Although there are situations when the box needs to be “built up” on both sides.

Installation can be carried out before the installation of the door. To do this, just screw the extensions to the back of the door frame. And if the extensions are mounted on already installed door, you need to drill through the additional one and fix the extension itself to the door frame with a self-tapping screw through the hole made. If the width of the opening does not allow this, try to nail the rail indented from the edge of the door frame. True, in this case, a gap may appear. But it is not difficult to cover it with sealant.

Horizontal extensions are installed after the vertical ones, on top of them. After that, you can deal with platbands. Installing extensions is not very difficult, but painstaking. So it takes several hours to install extensions on just one door.

If you wish, you can make your own extensions. Just cut for this panel the right sizes, paint them exactly the same color as the door. If your walls are not very smooth, make an additional panel with a slight slope. Then you visually align the walls.

Dobory for interior doors can be installed independently. The materials required for this are inexpensive, and the right tools there are even a novice home master.

Dobory for interior doors: what they look like and what they are for

Dobors (additional boards) are wooden planks or MDF panels that cover door slopes. Such slopes are formed if the thickness of the wall is greater than the width of the door frame. As a result, the box does not cover the entire end of the wall and bare concrete or broken bricks are visible. Sometimes this area is plastered, wallpapered, covered with plastic, but it is easier, faster and more aesthetic to install extensions.

The design of the door block with the use of extensions

Unlike ordinary slopes, additional boards, as it were, continue the missing width of the box itself, forming a single structure with it. In order not to make a mistake with the tone, add-ons are bought simultaneously with door leaf and cash.

Benefits of using

• Properly installed extensions look presentable and, depending on the overall style decision, bring an element of wealth and luxury or restraint and solidity to the interior.
• Attachments are fast and easy, which saves time, effort and money.
• During finishing works door block does not come into contact with wet solutions, which prevents its soaking and deterioration. Extends the life of the door.

Finished design looks nice and modern

Dobori can make your own or buy ready-made. The store will offer additional strips of standard sizes:

• length - 2.1 m;
• width - 7–25 cm;
• thickness - 6–30 mm.

To calculate the width of the additional plank, the depth of the groove in the box is added to the width of the slope, or the width of the box is subtracted from the thickness of the wall, taking into account the groove.

With particularly thick walls, the width of the extension can reach 40 cm or more, but such planks are made to order. The thickness of the trim strip must not exceed the width of the groove in the door frame..

Based design features, additional strips are divided into:

• ordinary;
• conventional with edging ends;
• telescopic.

The simplest extension is a straight strip of fibreboard (MDF) or laminate without a facing edge. Many masters believe that sticking a facing edge on the ends is a waste of time and money. After all, one end fits snugly against the door frame, and the second will be closed with a platband. But in this case, the installation must be carried out with special care, because even a deviation of a couple of millimeters will give out a novice master: a gray raw edge will be striking.

The simplest addition is a regular bar

If the end of the extension is previously closed with an edge tape matched tone-on-tone, minor flaws will be invisible. The edge itself costs a penny, and you can stick it in a few minutes using a regular iron. This method is also preferable because the edging of the ends prevents the MDF board from swelling under the influence of moisture. This is especially true for door blocks in kitchens and bathrooms.

A more perfect additional plank is distinguished by the presence of an edge at the ends

Most complex structure at the telescopic dobor. Its feature is the presence of special grooves that allow installation without the use of screws and nails. Moreover, it is almost impossible to miss: the dobor fits perfectly with the box and platbands. The width of the dobor is regulated by the depth of the groove. To make a telescopic extension yourself, you will need certain skills and a special tool. It's easier to buy ready-made slats.

Telescopic door extension has special recesses

Necessary tools and materials

When installing extensions, a minimum set of tools is used:

• level;
• roulette;
• pencil;
• saw or jigsaw;
• plane;
• hammer;
• sharp knife.

Necessary materials:

• polyurethane foam;
• fasteners (self-tapping screws, nails or "liquid nails");
• trim strips.

As a rule, extensions are bought together with the door leaf, but if the doors are not going to be changed, but they only plan to close the slopes, they are used to make extensions:

• wooden planks;
• pieces of MDF;
• long pieces of chipboard;
• plastic.

If applicable natural wood, to extend the service life, it is pre-treated with antiseptic impregnations.

Home-made extensions from ordinary MDF will differ from factory ones, since in industrial designs the inside between two thin fibreboards is filled with cellular material.

Chipboards lose to wood and MDF in terms of appearance and durability, but inside the room, chipboard extensions can be used.

Plastic as a material for the manufacture of extensions is rarely used. And if it is still used, then especially strong, metal-reinforced PVC panels are selected.

Dobors can be made of natural wood, chipboard, MDF panels or plastic

Installation of trim strips

Groove installation

If you plan to use extensions, then it is better to buy a door frame with a special groove. The presence of a groove not only speeds up the installation process, but also allows you to push / push the additional bar deep into the box by a few millimeters, which increases the accuracy of installation.

1. It is assumed that by the time the extensions are installed, the door frame is already fixed in doorway. Therefore, first measure the distance from the door frame to the edge of the wall. All slopes are measured separately and each at least four points. As a rule, these indicators differ: even if the box is installed strictly vertically, the wall itself may turn out to be uneven.

   It is convenient to take measurements with a construction square

2. To the width of the slope add the depth of the groove in the door frame. The resulting value determines the width of the additional plank.
3. With an electric jigsaw or saw, cut the extensions in length and width to the desired size.

   Additional strips are bought with a margin in width, and an exact fit is made during the installation process

4. Dobors are installed in the grooves of the door frame.

   The design of the door block using conventional extensions

5. If telescopic extensions are used, then the door frame and trim must also be telescopic. The entire block is assembled as a constructor, inserting the protrusions of some elements into the recesses of others. For strength, additional strips and platbands are put on glue or "liquid nails". The structure assembled in this way looks like a single whole.

   When mounting telescopic extensions, the tongue-to-groove method is used.

6. The upper horizontal dobor lies on the side ones, forming the letter P.

   The upper dobor lies on the side at a right angle

7. To ensure the immobility of the extensions, they are temporarily attached to the walls and the box with masking tape.
8. Eliminate the voids formed between the additional strip and the wall, filling the gaps with mounting foam. As a rule, spacers are installed between the extensions. If there are no spacers, the gap is foamed in several stages so that a too saturated layer of foam does not squeeze out the extensions inside the doorway.

   The gap between the wall and the dobor is filled with foam

9. Wait a few hours and after the foam has hardened, its excess is cut off with a knife.

   The use of foam during installation allows you to do without nails and screws

Grooveless installation

If there is no special groove in the door frame, the extensions are fixed back to back. Such installation requires very accurate (up to a millimeter) measurements, careful fitting of additional strips and special care during installation.

1. Measure the width of the slopes in the same way as when installing extensions in the groove.
2. Trim the slats to the desired size. If extra millimeters remain after sawing, they are cut off with a planer.
3. An edge tape is glued onto the resulting sections. To do this, the edge is ironed with a hot iron, as a result of which the glue on the reverse side is melted and the tape is firmly attached to the bar.

   The edge is glued with an iron

4. Thin nails up to half are hammered into the ends of the extensions in increments of 20–25 cm. If glue is additionally used, three nails are enough for a vertical extension and one (in the middle) for a horizontal one.
5. Nail heads are bitten off at an angle so that the end is sharp.

   Nails are hammered into the end of the dobor and the hats are bitten off

6. Install the extensions in place - first the side rails, then the top. The vertical dobor is pressed tightly at the bottom, slammed and finished off with a hammer so that the nail enters the door frame. Then nail the middle, then the top. Make sure that there are no gaps between the extensions and the box.
7. The upper horizontal bar is placed on the vertical ones, the right angle is checked and nailed with a hammer.

   After installing the extensions, the nails are not visible

8. The gaps between the wall and the extension are foamed in the same way as when installing the extensions in the groove.

Platband installation

After the extensions are installed and the mounting foam has dried, the trim is fixed.

1. Measure the height of the side rails. To do this, add the width of the upper casing to the height of the doorway.

   The length of the vertical casing is calculated taking into account the width of the horizontal

2. The top of the right casing is cut down at an angle of 45 degrees so that the edge of the plank that will adjoin the extension is shorter.

   A miter box will help cut the casing at an angle of exactly 45 degrees

3. Also at an angle of 45 degrees, but in a mirror image, the top of the left casing is sawn down.
4. Saw off excess length from platbands.
5. Vertical platbands are put in place and each is baited on two nails - at the bottom and in the middle.
6. Apply the upper casing and make markings.

   It is desirable to bite off the heads of the nails. So they will be almost invisible.

   If self-tapping screws are used instead of nails, then a hole is first drilled into which the hat is drowned. Then they are screwed, and the caps are closed with special plastic plugs.

   It is not difficult to install extensions for interior doors on your own, although the process cannot be called fast. But if everything is done correctly, the new door unit will become the main decoration of the room.