Do-it-yourself installation of a metal tile roof - step by step instructions. Installation of a metal tile independently Scheme of installation of a roof from a metal tile

The metal tile is an engineering and technical "alloy" of steel strength and the aesthetics of traditional roofing ceramics. Lightweight profiled sheets practically do not affect the weight of the building and delight installers with convenient dimensions.

A sure plus in the piggy bank of material priorities is the ability to independently carry out the entire cycle roofing works without paid participation of builders. Only first you need to find out how the roof is made of metal tiles with your own hands, and learn about the rules and intricacies of the process of its construction.

The corrugated metal sheets of the now popular coating are equipped with double protection against atmospheric attacks. Steel profiled blanks are first immersed in hot zinc tanks, which forms an anti-corrosion film on the surface. Then the outer side of the material is covered with a colored polymer shell that performs aesthetic and protective functions.

However, both degrees of protection will not be able to withstand the attacks of precipitation and household fumes if the roofing pie is arranged with violations and errors. In the space under the coating, condensate will begin to accumulate, which will slowly but surely get to the metal. The insulation will get wet and lose its insulating qualities. Wooden elements get wet, as a result of which they rot.

Relying completely on light weight and an impressive area of ​​​​sheets of material is also not worth it: the rafter system must be strong enough, and the crate must be such that each element is fixed at the required number of points. Therefore, you should properly prepare for the self-assembly of metal tiles, i.e. get to know the details of the building roof structure, battens and roofing cake.

Rafter system and crate

Metal tiles are used in the arrangement of cold and insulated roofs. The truss system for the cold type can be built from steel or aluminum elements. But wood is still a priority, because it is easier to attach coating sheets to it. Insulated structures require more powerful roof trusses, because between their legs there will be thermal insulation. The use of metal in such situations is impractical, so warm roofs are arranged according to wooden rafters with a crate.

Note that the installation of a roof made of metal tiles is possible on pitched roofs ah with a minimum slope of 14º. The slope of the roofs is from 15º to 20º.

In the construction of a truss system for a warm roof with metal tiles, there are rules, these are:

• The step between the rafter legs should not exceed 90 cm. The minimum distance between the rafters is 60cm. If the step of the existing truss system is greater than the specified upper limit, an additional crate is arranged from a transversely installed board.
• The rafter system is arranged from a board 50 mm thick. The recommended board height is 100 or 150 mm depending on the thickness of the thermal insulation.
• Laid in a spacer between the rafter legs should not come into contact with traditional waterproofing. If the thickness of the insulation is equal to the transverse height of the board used in the device of the truss structure, then an additional counter-rail of 30 × 50 or 50 × 50 is stuffed onto the rafters along their direction. It will create a gap of 3-5cm.

In order to ensure ventilation wooden elements it is advisable to drill holes Ø 2-2.5 cm in the rafter legs on the side. The formation of holes is an optional procedure, but strongly recommended by metal tile manufacturers. If there are concerns about the weakening of the structure, they are advised to place them closer to the ridge in two or three rows with a step of 30 cm.

Before the construction of the crate, which works as the basis for fastening the sheets, the geometric parameters of the truss system should be checked. Measure and verify the length of the diagonals of rectangular slopes. On mansard roofs, the length of the diagonals of each part of the slope is separate. You need to control the horizontal position of the overhangs and the ridge, as well as the location of the outer surface of the rafter legs in the same plane. Timely detection of deviations in geometry will eliminate further errors.

After making sure that the roof trusses are geometrically flawless, you can proceed to the construction of the crate, in the device of which, by analogy, clear rules apply:

• The first lath - the lowest rail on the overhang should be higher than the subsequent ordinary rails. For its construction, it is necessary to take a bar thicker than for ordinary laths. For example, for the bottom rail 50x50, and for all subsequent 30x50.
• The initial rail of the crate should be clearly parallel to the line of the eaves.
• The step between the first and second bars is 28 or 30 cm. The step between subsequent rails is 30, 35 or 40cm. the step is determined by the distance between the transverse waves of the metal tile.
• In the process of installing the lathing, through penetrations through the roof are taken into account and fasteners for pipes are installed.
• In the grooves, around the dormer windows, chimney, fan and other pipes, a continuous crate of boards is arranged.
• In the upper part of the slopes, two boards are nailed to the rafters to ensure reliable fixation of the cornice strip. Boards are installed at a distance of 5 cm from each other.

Among other things, before installing the crate, all wooden components should be treated with an antiseptic and fire-fighting compound.

The crate plays not only the role of the basis for fastening the sheets, but at the same time performs another very important job. It forms ventilation channels through which air flows circulate from the overhang to the ridge, and provides a ventilation gap between the waterproofing layer and the coating.

ventilation ducts must remain free so that air can flow under the metal sheets without interference and also come out. From the side of the overhangs and from the side of the ridge, they are simply covered with perforated tape, which prevents dust and debris from entering the roofing pie.

Structural roof boards

Cornice boards are used to reinforce the slope and give it cruelty in case the roof is planned to be equipped with an organized drain or to hem the overhangs with vinyl siding. In situations where filing is done with a corny board, there is no need to use board reinforcement.

Cornice boards are laid along the overhangs in the grooves pre-selected in the rafters. The dimensions of the grooves must correspond to the dimensions of the board so that the plane of the overhang remains unchanged and the height of the truss system does not increase. If it is planned to install long hooks used to fix the gutter, grooves are cut in the cornice board for their fastening. Hooks with a short leg are screwed only to the front board. They apply when the device drainage system it was not planned in advance when repairing old roofs. The installation step of all types of hooks is equal to the step of the rafter legs.

The frontal board is used if the roof does not have an organized drain. It is attached to the ends of the rafters with galvanized nails. Serves as an element for fastening various roofing parts and accessories, including for hemming overhangs. The end board serves as the basis for the end plank, the latter covers the waterproofing laid over the board. In addition to the decorative function, the plank nailed to the end board prevents the roof from rattling.

Time to hem the overhangs

Coating manufacturers strongly advise to hem overhangs with valves specially produced for this purpose, such as KTV or Vilpe. For filing cornices, siding, profiled sheet or vinyl spotlights are recommended. Dobora are on sale with the application of connecting details and with the instruction. You can economically hem a board attached with a gap for roof ventilation.

The specifics of the roofing cake

The composition and structure of the roofing pie under the metal tile depends on whether the structure will be insulated or not. In the simplest non-insulated scheme, only a waterproofing film is used. A vapor barrier is used if the attic is supposed to be hemmed.

The insulated roofing cake includes three standard layers, these are:

• Vapor barrier. It is located on the side of the future intake of household fumes, i.e. from within the truss system. Her job is to protect the insulation from steam. Strips of vapor barrier material are laid parallel to the overhangs with an overlap of 10-15 cm. They are attached to the rafters with a stapler, and they are connected into a single canvas with adhesive tape. Between inner lining attic and vapor barrier should create a gap by installing battens.
• Thermal insulation. As a heater, mineral wool boards are most often used, the thickness of which is determined in accordance with the requirements of SNiP II-3-79. The material is installed at a distance between the rafter legs. To ensure the rigidity of the installation, the plates are cut with a width of 1.5-2 cm more than the distance between the rafters.
• Waterproofing. It is needed as a barrier against atmospheric precipitation. They lay it on the outside of the truss system in front of the batten, they try to arrange it immediately after laying the insulation, so as not to get wet. waterproofing material it is laid, like a vapor barrier, in strips with a similar overlap and fastening methods.

The waterproofing layer is laid so that its canvas overlaps the lines of the walls along the perimeter by at least 20 cm. In the areas where the slopes join, in the valleys, laying is carried out with overlaps of 20-30 cm. Along the ridge line, the waterproofing must have a gap so as not to interfere with air circulation.

An important condition: bituminous water-repellent materials cannot be used as a waterproofing of a roofing cake when installing a roof made of metal tiles. Waterproofing must pass steam and condensate accumulated in the insulation.

The method of constructing a water-repellent layer depends on the material used:

• Classic version of waterproofing - reinforced or non-reinforced polyethylene film, which must be provided with two ventilation gaps. The first of them is formed by the truss system and is located between the insulation and the film, the second is formed by the crate and is located between the film and the roofing. The size of each of the gaps is 3-5 cm.
• The superdiffusion membrane can work fine with a single ventilation gap of 3-5cm. It is created between the membrane and the metal tile. When using a polymeric material, there is no point in breaking the contact between the waterproofing and the insulation. After all, the membrane is able to pass excess moisture out, preventing it from getting inside.
• Anti-condensation materials with a fleecy surface designed to accumulate moisture. Their pile is quickly ventilated when washed with air, which should be provided with a path. Therefore, this option also needs dual-circuit ventilation, like the classic. It is mainly used in the arrangement of cold roofs.

All types of insulating materials, except for polymeric waterproofing, are laid with sagging. So it is necessary that when the film is pulled, it does not break. Only the membrane does not need to be laid with sagging - it tends to stretch.

Around the through passages through the roof, waterproofing is placed on the walls of communication pipes by 5-7 cm. Ideally, an additional waterproofing layer is recommended around pipes and other weakened areas of the roof.

Installation of parts before laying the coating

Before laying the metal tile, it is mandatory to install:

• Eaves strips, excluding the penetration of dust and debris into the under-roof space. They are mounted on top of the ventilation tape attached to the ends and the legs of the drain hooks. The slats are attached to the frontal and eaves board with self-tapping screws in increments of 30 cm. To prevent rattling from gusts of wind, these metal parts are installed with an interference fit.
• Cornice droppers, which are located under the waterproofing film. They are needed to remove moisture from waterproofing.
• A lower valley that reinforces the protection of the concave corners of the roof. It is a metal corner that repeats the shape of the groove. It is mounted on top of a solid plank crate. The lower edge of the corner is located above the cornice board. In almost flat grooves, the boardwalk is equipped with an additional strip of waterproofing. The lower valley is screwed with self-tapping screws every 30 cm. A porous sealant is covered over the lower valley.
• Protective bypass around chimneys crossing the roof. It is carried out using metal bypass strips, the upper edge of which is attached to a strobe formed in the pipe walls and treated with a sealant. Stitching into the seam is prohibited! The same rules apply when arranging adjoining walls.
• Lightning rod required for the safe operation of a metal roof.

The lightning rod system consists of three main parts. The first is a lightning rod, which is a steel or aluminum bar Ø 12mm, from 20 cm to 1.5 m long. The second component of the down conductor is a single-core steel or aluminum wire Ø 6 mm welded to the lightning rod. They lay a down conductor along the crate and along the walls, lead to the ground. Grounding, the third part of the system, is an iron beam 1.5 m long buried at a depth of 1.5 m or a steel sheet with an area of ​​1 m × 1 m, for example.

Rules for laying sheets of metal

Before laying profiled sheets, it is necessary to arrange logs for transporting material to the roof. In order not to lift the coating one sheet at a time, it is advisable to build racks for temporary storage at the top. More home master you will need soft shoes, diligence and accuracy in the process of moving along the roof. The work contractor is allowed to step only into the deflections of profiled waves.

When laying metal tiles, you can move even to the left, even to the right of the first fixed sheet. The main thing is that the capillary groove overlaps with the sheet laid on top. The guideline for choosing the direction of laying is convenience. However, it is better to act in such a way that the element laid on top immediately fits under the extreme wave of the previous one and snaps into place with a capillary groove. This way it stays in place and doesn't slide off.

Typical installation sequence

Indisputable rules for the installation of metal tiles:

• Starting sheets are attached to the first lath through the wave on top of the transverse step of the cover. Their lower edge extends 5 cm beyond the eaves.
• All subsequent fastening of sheets is carried out in recessions of waves from below the transverse step.
• Along the end board, the profiled coating is attached to all waves.

Before fastening, it is necessary to carefully check the horizontal position of the sheet. After making sure that the installation is flawless, it is temporarily fixed with one self-tapping screw at the upper edge in the center. Then the second sheet is laid, leveled and temporarily fixed in the same way. Aligned sheets are fastened together. Do the same with the third and fourth.

Screwing to the crate is carried out when a block of 3-4 sheets is laid and temporarily fixed. The block is fixed at all the required points. Only the outer sheet is not screwed to the crate, so that it remains possible to connect it with the next element.

The process of laying metal tile sheets in several rows differs only in that the rows of material will also have to be fastened to each other. Sheets in height are increased vertically.

Profiled sheets are suitable for pitched roofs of any configuration. However, for a competent device of a hip or hip roof made of metal tiles, you will have to act according to a different scheme.

Installation of sheets on slopes of a triangular shape:

• We find the center of the overhang and draw the central axis through it.
• We take the first sheet and do the same with it.
• We combine the axes of the slope and the sheet in fact, we verify the horizontal and vertical.
• Temporarily fasten the sheet with a self-tapping screw in the center at the top edge.
• We install the sheets to the right and left of the central element of the coating in the usual way.

After fastening the corrugated sheets, the excess is cut off.

The convenience of trimming with marking material for arranging valleys, triangular, trapezoidal and oblique slopes will provide a home-made "devil". It is built from four boards 10 cm wide. The boards are arranged in parallel pairs and are connected to each other according to the hinge principle. A simple fixture will help to accurately outline the cut segments.

Final installation work

After laying the wavy coating with a light soul, you can proceed to the finishing touches:

• Install passage elements around pipes, antennas and other communications. All components of the roofing cake at the intersection points are sealed with adhesive tape. Butt joints are filled with sealant.
• Screw the end plate to the end board with self-tapping screws every 50-60 cm.
• Screw the top bar of the valley, having laid a self-expanding sealant on the coating beforehand.
• Build a horse. To do this, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ridge is glued on the outside with waterproofing of the Metalroll or Figarol brand. Ventilation ducts must remain open. The ridge is fixed with self-tapping screws to the crate, the fasteners should be screwed through a convex comb. The ends of the ridge element are closed with plugs.

A drainage system, snow guards, service ladders and fencing, if planned, are installed on the laid coating.

A detailed video instruction will become an excellent consolidation of information about the device on the roof of a solid roof made of metal tiles with your own master's hands:

There are many nuances in the construction of a roof with metal tiles. However, there is nothing super complicated in technology. It is necessary to familiarize yourself with the intricacies of the device and observe them so that you do not again have to change the roof to the next option.

Metal tiles and metal profiles are two new materials that confidently occupy a leading position in the roofing market. Each of them has its own minor differences, relating to a greater extent design solutions, not technical parameters and performance characteristics.

In order to avoid annoying mistakes during the arrangement of a roof made of metal tiles, you need not only to know the technology of installation work, but also to understand why this or that operation is necessary. Experienced roofers have such special knowledge, they enable them to take right decisions in unforeseen situations. During construction, there are no and cannot be completely identical objects and conditions, experienced craftsmen independently choose the best option for solving problems, taking into account the preferences and capabilities of the customer and existing objective factors.

We do not consider the types of truss systems, there are quite a few of them. By the way, not all of them are considered the best option for metal tiles. The article focuses on the types of roofing, and they can only be of two types.

roof type	Performance characteristics
	Warm roof is not a technical, but a commercial name. From a physical point of view, the roof itself does not heat anything, it does not produce thermal energy. A warm roof only minimizes heat loss from the attic space and thereby improves the microclimate parameters, reduces the cost of maintaining residential premises during the heating period. Such roofs are often called mansard roofs; they are rather complex and very expensive structures. They require unquestioning compliance with the recommendations of manufacturers and building codes. Developers should remember that deviations from existing technologies not only significantly reduce the efficiency of heat saving, this is not the main problem. The danger is that a poorly made warm roof causes a quick failure load-bearing elements rafter system. As a result, the need to perform roof repairs, and they are always very expensive and time-consuming. Warm roofs in our country began to be used relatively recently, but even in this short time they have become very popular with developers.
	Common traditional method of roofing on buildings for various purposes. This option is chosen in the case when the attic space is not planned to be used as residential, the estimated cost of the structure is much cheaper than the warm one. But there are certain nuances - some unscrupulous roofers are trying to convince customers of the need to install a counter-lattice, vapor protection and other elements of a warm roof on an ordinary roof. They argue this for various reasons, but do not indicate the main one. And it is very simple - the desire to get the maximum amount of remuneration for their work, including useless. We will dwell on these nuances in more detail below.

Prices for metal tiles

metal tile

For example, we will consider the most common technology for laying metal tiles - without an insulating layer. What are the most common mistakes and what technology recommendations should be followed?

Vapor barrier of metal tiles

Unscrupulous or illiterate roofers strongly recommend developers to vaporize a cold roof. Explanations - due to this, the ingress of steam on metal sheets is reduced and their service life is greatly increased. In fact, everything is exactly the opposite, significantly deteriorating operational parameters. Why?

1. Even theoretically, it is impossible to make the vapor barrier completely airtight, moist air will in any case enter the metal tile through leaky joints, due to linear temperature fluctuations in the rafter system, due to the fact that the vapor barrier membranes themselves pass moisture in small quantities, etc. This means that the presence of vapor barrier membranes does not exclude the formation of condensate on the sheets with all the negative consequences.
2. If a membrane is installed, then the effectiveness of the natural ventilation of the under-roof space is significantly reduced. Slightly improves the position and counter-lattice with special products. Best of all, the sheets dry out only when their plane is completely open, condensate is removed not only during the movement of air masses, but also in a calm state due to the pressure difference of the air saturated with vapors.
3. The visual revision of the state of the wooden structures of the truss system is very difficult. Roof can long time have leaks that are difficult to see from the attic due to the installed membrane. A constantly wet tree is quickly affected by rot, loses its original load-bearing properties, the truss system requires complex repairs. Various impregnations help little.
4. Roof increase. The membrane costs a lot of money, and especially the most modern so-called diffusion membrane. Work on its laying also has to be paid, as a result - a noticeable increase in the estimated cost of the roof.

Using this example, we tried to explain why one should know not only the technology, but also understand the purpose of each operation, there should always be a clear logic and scientific explanation of certain actions.

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Vapor barrier material

During the arrangement of this element, inexperienced builders often make two mistakes.

First. The gutter fixing bracket is attached directly to the first board of the purlin. You can’t do this, the metal strip will rest against the tile sheet and deform it. This is at best, at worst, over time in this place, due to the inevitable fluctuations of the roof, thin rolled products will perforate. There is no need to talk about the consequences. A special recess should be made under the bracket, its upper plane should not protrude above the surface of the boards.

Second. The thickness of the compensating rail for the cornice strip and the lower edge of the first roof sheet is not regulated. The standard thickness of lumber for battens and counter battens is 20–25 mm, the same dimensions are for the plank for the compensating rail. As a result, it lifts the lower edge of the sheet and bends the entire profile. No need to be lazy, it is strongly recommended to reduce the thickness of the rail and adjust it in height to the parameters of the sheet profile. In most cases, the thickness of the lath should be 15 mm, the specific values ​​​​depend on the type of metal tile and should be indicated in the installation instructions from the manufacturer. If the dimensions are adjusted correctly, then the metal tile sheet will be pressed tightly along the profile, there will be no sagging.

How to align the first sheets of metal tiles

The longer the building, the more important it is to precisely set the first rows of the roof. A few millimeters of error at one end of the ramp turn into a few centimeters at the opposite end, and such an error is perfectly visible from the ground, it is impossible to completely hide the marriage.

But this is not all problems. The fact is that it is necessary to fix the metal tile only at the provided points under the upper part of the profile. The crate is made mostly of laths about 3 cm wide, due to this, a reduction in the consumption of expensive lumber is achieved. The displacement of sheets by two centimeters becomes critical - self-tapping screws do not hold the coating with design reliability. In the most difficult cases, you will either have to completely dismantle all installed sheets and start work again, taking into account the mistakes made, or nail additional laths of the crate, taking into account the amount of displacement of the fixation points. Both options are highly undesirable and always have negative consequences.

How to accurately install the first rows on a long slope? This is done in several stages.

1. Install two sheets of the first row and one sheet of the second on the rafter system. Pay attention that they are connected in the places provided. The sheets on the slope should resemble the Latin letter "L".
2. In one place, tighten the self-tapping screw, do not tighten it strongly, the sealing gum should only slightly touch the surface of the metal profile, but not shrink. The self-tapping screw is fixed on the middle sheet approximately in the center. Due to this, you can carefully move all three sheets at the same time, they do not pop out of the factory locks, they turn to the right / left by several centimeters. Such offsets are quite enough to accurately set the metal roof in relation to the eaves.
3. If you have a pre-tensioned rope for alignment - excellent, the process of installing the first sheets is somewhat simplified. While pulling the rope, it is necessary to accurately measure the width of the slopes, the spreads along the extreme planes cannot exceed ± 2 mm. If there is no rope, then alignment will have to be done by eye. It is recommended that before finally fixing the position of the first sheets, lay a few more along the length. This will increase the accuracy of the adjustment and completely eliminate the possibility of a very unpleasant error.

If there is a desire or need to make your own adjustments, then experienced roofers advise never to reduce their total number per square meter of roofing. You can increase the number of attachment points, screw them at least into each wave.

This is exactly what should be done from the sides and the eaves of the roof, then the maximum distance between the hardware is staggered through the wave. Less often it is strictly forbidden, you should not experiment, with strong gusts of wind there may be explosions up to the demolition of the entire roof.

Practical advice. There are recommendations to screw the screws into two sheets at the same time at the joint alignment point, it is located on the upper crest of the wave. This can be done only in one case: during the planning of the placement of sheets of metal tiles, a mistake was made and the locks were on the leeward side of the roof. Fixing with self-tapping screws at the joints will reduce noise during strong gusts of wind and minimize the risks of blowing fine dry snow into the cracks.

You should work in soft shoes, stand only in recesses, the ridges can bend under the weight of a person. Follow the manufacturer's recommended layout of sheets, this eliminates the appearance of large gaps at the junction of the four corners. How is such a result achieved? Everything is pretty simple. Even at the design stage of equipment for the production of profiled sheets, special edge bending radii are provided, due to which they compensate for a slight increase in thickness.

It is preferable to stack sheets from right to left, due to this technology docking is facilitated. If you do the opposite, then the joints of subsequent sheets will have to be pushed under the waves of the previous ones. This increases the risk of damage to the anti-corrosion protection and complicates the process of fixing screws.

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Screwdrivers

Step-by-step instruction

The more complex the roof truss system, the more difficult it is to make and the more unproductive waste will be.

Complex roofs are recommended to be covered with soft roofing materials. If in the future it is planned to make cold roofs warm, then be sure to fasten the wind protection. The fact is that all roof insulation operations can be done from the attic, you can’t just install wind protection (water protection).

Check the dimensions of the crate. The distance between the rails along the axes should be 35 cm, this is the standard for mounting the vast majority metal sheets. The first rail is nailed closer, a distance of about 15–20 cm, depending on the specific manufacturer of the roofing material. The dimensions should be strictly observed, each self-tapping screw should be fixed only under the wave, it is in this place that the metal fits snugly against the rails. The farther from the edge, the greater the distance between the sheet and the crate, which increases the deflection of the roof. It is recommended to comply minimum angle the slope of the slopes is at least 14 °, the larger the value, the less the load on the profile, the less the risk of their deflections.

Video - Installation of the crate under the metal tile

Important. Always follow safety regulations when performing roofing work. Do not work without insurance, do not lift sheet metal with ropes and in windy weather. Always prepare special devices to facilitate movement on the roof, try to install scaffolding around the building.

Sheets can be cut with a circular portable saw with carbide teeth, electric or manual metal shears. As for the grinder, manufacturers prohibit the use of this tool for cutting sheets. Although in practice, craftsmen often cut metal tiles with a grinder. The fact is that the anti-corrosion layer suffers only at a width of 1–2 mm, and the cut point is always closed from atmospheric moisture by additional elements. To date, no roof leaks have been recorded due to cutting with a grinder. But violations of laying technology often cause a violation of tightness.

After cutting, metal shavings must be carefully removed with a soft brush, and scratches that have appeared should be repaired with a special polymer paint sold as a set with tiles.

Step 1. Proceed to install the vapor barrier film. It is mounted from the side of the attic, attached to the rafters with a stapler. An overlap of at least ten centimeters, the joints must be glued with adhesive tape. Many modern materials have a ready-made adhesive strip, you need to remove the protective paper and connect the overlap. Carefully process transition points, joints of chimneys and other engineering communications. The better the steam protection is mounted, the higher the heat saving parameters. The fact is that the thermal conductivity of mineral wool decreases sharply with increasing relative humidity.

Step 2 Nail the slats over the film, they are fixed to the rafter legs. The slats perform two tasks: they provide natural ventilation of the space between the vapor barrier and the ceiling and serve as structures for attaching the skin.

Step 3 Install the heater. Most often, basalt wool is used for these purposes. The thickness of the insulation layer should be at least 10 cm, if the building is located in cold regions, then the thickness can increase up to 25 cm.

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Important. Never try to save money by reducing the thickness of the insulation. Such actions have very sad consequences, and significant financial resources will have to be invested to eliminate them.

Lay the heat insulator with offset joints, avoid the formation of cold bridges.

Step 4 For waterproofing under metal tiles, use a special membrane. It allows steam that has entered the mineral wool to pass through, and does not allow condensate to enter the insulation again. But this is not all the tasks of the membrane. The fact is that mineral wool has a very low density, air blows through it without any problems and carries away heat. To prevent heat loss, the mineral wool should be protected from the wind; the membrane does an excellent job with these functions. The overlap of the rows is 10–15 centimeters, the membrane is fixed with a construction stapler.

Step 5 Along the rafter legs it is necessary to install bars for the counter-lattice. To ensure effective ventilation, a thickness of 5 cm bars is recommended.

The pitch of the crate is selected depending on the size of the wave of the tile profile, in most cases this size is the same and equals 35 cm. Do not forget about the features of the first lath of the crate.

For lathing, it is better to use a board with a width of at least ten centimeters, such a margin allows you to easily level out small inaccuracies during the laying of metal tiles.

Lathing from a board 100 x 25 mm

Step 6 Nail the cornice strips with an overlap of 10 cm, screw the screws in a checkerboard pattern. It is not necessary to use galvanized hardware, they are located under the sheets of metal tiles and are not exposed to the negative effects of precipitation. Self-tapping pitch ≈ 30 cm.

Install ventilation tape. It protects the under-roof space from the penetration of birds and large insects and does not interfere with effective ventilation.

Step 7 In the inner corners of the roof (valleys), install a solid crate of boards, special elements will be fixed to it.

Step 8 Replace the metal strips of the valley. Different manufacturers have some differences, but this does not affect the installation algorithm. After the shingles are laid, the valleys are covered with decorative elements that cover uneven cuts and improve the appearance of the roof.

Step 9 Close all junctions with special strips, seal the joints with sealant for outdoor work. Don't forget the overlaps.

Practical advice. The joints are finished last on the already covered roof. To minimize the likelihood of deformation of metal sheets during walking and increase the safety of work, it is recommended to install a board on the roof, tying its ends to the ridge with ropes.

The planks are fixed to the ridges of the sheets, which requires extra care when screwing in the screws. The length of the hardware should provide a strong connection with the laths of the crate.

The overhang of the sheets along the eaves depends on the width of the gutter of the gutter system; for a gutter of 100 mm, the overhang should be 50 mm.

The end strips are fixed to the end board in the direction from the bottom up, with an overlap of about 10 cm.

At the final stage, the ridge bar is attached. It can be mounted on perforated holders or fixed directly to sheets. Do not forget to leave a hole near the ridge for natural ventilation. The gap is closed with a mesh made of durable non-woven material.

Ridge crate

If there is a need, then you need to install .

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Snow guard

This completes the laying of metal tile sheets, it can proceed to finishing the soffits and installing the spillway system.

The drainage system can be plastic, metal and even wooden. When choosing, it is important to take into account the quality and durability of the elements, to select a weir that matches the style of the roofing. If you have already made a choice and plan to do the installation yourself, be sure to read to learn about all the rules for installing spillway systems.

28.09.2017 0 comments

The need for reliable and high-quality overlapping of structures for various purposes is an axiom. Developers increasingly prefer metal tiles to replace classic slate and galvanized sheet. Seemingly complex laying of material, entrusted to specialists, can be successfully completed independently with helpers from among relatives and good friends. Desire, passion, presence necessary tools should be based on certain theoretical knowledge in order to obtain the expected result from the work. Theoretical points and useful tips are presented in this material.

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Coating advantages and disadvantages

In favor of choosing a metal tile, the following qualities of roofing material can be cited:

• environmental friendliness - there are no harmful substances and compounds in the composition;
• light weight - 3.6-5.2 kg / m2;
• excellent strength, achieved by the presence of structural stiffeners, gives a properly installed metal tile sheet with a thickness of 0.5 mm the ability to withstand a load of more than 200 kg / m2;
• installation and repair of the roof is not difficult;
• Fire safety;
• aesthetic classic look wide opportunities choice of material of different thickness, profile, protective coating and color;
• minimum linear expansion under the influence of temperature and high resistance to its differences.

When choosing a material, you need to know its disadvantages. Metal roofing has:

• The tendency to form condensation on the surface of the sheet from the temperature difference between the outside air and the attic. For a material based on metal, this can cause corrosion processes.
• Noise when exposed to precipitation (rain, hail) and from contact with wind-swaying tree branches.

Both problems are significantly mitigated by the obligatory insulation of the roof from the attic. Insulating "pie" shifts the "dew point" outward and at the same time performs the role of sound insulation.

Calculation of material and necessary fittings

To order a complete set of materials for the arrangement of the roof, it is necessary to measure the prepared structure. To be measured:

• Slope length - measured in the center and at the edges of the overhang from the ridge to the outer edge of the lower cornice board. The main indicator is considered the maximum with the addition of a canopy allowance.
• Slope widths.
• The lengths of the outer (ridges) and inner (valleys) angles and their summation.
• Lengths of ridges and cornices along the perimeter of the roof structure.

All measurement results are transferred to a sketch or a roof plan. According to this sketch, a sales consultant or a construction company specialist will be able to make an accurate calculation required amount sheets of metal tiles of various sizes. Sheets are produced in 1, 3, 6 or 10 modules (a module is a unit of area equal to one profile row of a metal tile). The selection of sheets of the required dimensions will reduce the amount of material waste when laying a roof with complex geometry.

An example of the layout of sheets of metal tiles on the 1st of the slopes of the hip roof.

When calculating the number of sheets, their useful area is taken into account, which is 8-12% less than the total area due to the overlap of the sheets with each other. Then the list is supplemented by water collectors, valleys, a ridge, snow holders, strips and sheets of steel in the color of the selected tile, and the necessary fasteners. On the roof plan, existing and planned ventilation shafts, antennas, windows (dormer, dormers), chimneys should be marked. Their finishing at the junction with the roof will also require the purchase of special fittings.

Preparatory work

The main installation work is preceded by mandatory preparatory work. Their importance cannot be underestimated. At this stage, check:

• The correctness of the assembled truss system, the accuracy of its geometry.
• The presence of crates, counter-lattices. Correspondence of the section of the molded material and the pitch of the lathing with the pitch of the rafters, the expected load, and the recommendations of the accompanying documentation of the tile manufacturer.
• The presence of a solid or additional cornice crate for reliable fastening of the safety elements used (fences, snow guards).
• The integrity of the insulation membranes.
• The presence of additional boards for fastening skates and boards for strengthening in the valleys.
• The possibility of organizing ventilation of the entire space under the roof. For this, obligatory eaves and ridge vents must be provided. If they are present, air enters the cornice part, ventilates and dries the seamy side of the metal tile from possible condensate, and is removed through the ridge zone.
• Was there any processing wooden structure by special means for fire and biological protection.

The device of the truss system, lathing and hydrovapor barrier.

Main works

Step-by-step installation of metal tiles on the roof on your own.

1. For the provided water drainage system, brackets are mounted no further than 0.7 m from each other.
2. Eaves strips are nailed (step 30 cm) with galvanized nails. A waterproofing film laid under the crate is slightly let down on the bar and cut off.
3. The first sheet of metal tiles to be laid is leveled at the pediment and temporarily fixed with one self-tapping screw at the ridge, the other at the eaves.
4. The next three sheets are temporarily fixed and the whole block is aligned.
5. Now you need to fix all the sheets of tiles on the crate.
6. Further, the operation with 3-4 sheets is repeated until the entire slope is covered.
7. The edges of the profile of the metal tile should not reach the axis of the ridge at least 8 cm. A ventilation tape is installed on them and then ridge strips are fastened at the highest points of the profile with self-tapping screws (step 30-80 cm).
8. The gable plank is installed from the bottom up: the fastening step is 30-60 cm, the overlap is 5-10 cm. The plank should cover the top line of the profile wave.

Arrangement of valleys

When the full size sheets of shingles are in place, the interior corners are finished. More on preparatory stage in the valleys, additional sheathing boards were stuffed to be able to withstand the load from possible snow “bags”. Now the gutter itself is laid from below to the ridge bent sheet. Vertical overlap of sheets - 200 mm. The width of the sheet from the axis of the valley is 0.5 m per side.

On the laid sheets of the gutter, markings are made (10 mm on the sides of the axis of the valley), along which the sheets adjacent to the inner corner will be cut. A special seal is attached to the edges of the gutter. Cut, according to the markup, sheets of metal tiles are placed in their places and attached to the crate no closer than 0.25 m from the axis of the corner. An indicator of proper fastening is the absence of gaps between the tiles and the sealant and the tight fit of the sheet to the board of the crate at the point of fastening. If the edges of the tile fit to the valley were cut off unevenly and with defects, do not worry. All flaws will be hidden under the installed decorative overlay.

Roofing near pipes

Pipes passing through the roof and ventilation shafts along the perimeter are lined with a wall profile made of bent galvanized sheets with a stable polymer coating. The overlap of the profiles on the pipe is at least 15 cm. They are attached to the crate under the sheets of tiles, the junction with the pipe is treated with sealant. Under the lower profile, a “tie” is wound up and fastened - a flat triangular sheet with a flanging - to ensure that the water that enters under the roof is drained from the pipe towards the eaves. After mounting the wall profile, the “tie” and the metal tile itself, the elements of the adjacent “apron” are installed at the joints with the pipe.

Accessories

The installation of the accessories provided for by the plan is carried out strictly according to the technology specified by the manufacturer in the attached instructions for a specific product. But all installed stairs, railings, ventilation outlets, bridges and other accessories are united by the general rule of fastening - through sheets of roofing material directly to the crate using synthetic gaskets.

• A metal tile is a measured material, the length of the sheets of which reaches 7.5 m. For its temporary storage or long-term storage, a flat area is selected with wooden beams installed every 0.5 m. The same bars are used as spacers between sheets. A stack of folded sheets is covered and pressed down from above (in 2-3 places) with a load that can prevent unwanted movement of the material from gusts of wind.
• The supply of roofing material to the roof is carried out along two boards, as if along guides.
• The use of a "grinder" when working with metal tiles should be excluded, because when cutting, in addition to the edge in the cut area, the polymer coating is also broken (burned through) in places where hot metal filings hit it. The second important point is that the guarantee for sheets cut with this power tool is canceled by the manufacturer.
• Seals are not used under the decorative overlay of the valley. When fixing the overlays, you need to make sure that the valley itself is not damaged by self-tapping screws.
• The wall adjoining profile can be mounted immediately on the wall plane or in a prepared strobe with the obligatory sealing of the joint with a sealant.
• A large overhang from the eaves can cause deformation of the edge of the metal tile. The optimal overhang is 40 mm.
• Self-tapping screws are purchased at the rate of 7-10 pieces / m2. The length of the self-tapping screws for fastening the tiles to the crate is 25 mm, between each other - 19 mm.
• Usually, a metal tile is attached to the crate in every third wave of the profile; near the gables, ridges and cornices - through the wave. The self-tapping screw is driven 1.5 cm below the stamping line.
• Working with metal tiles requires maximum accuracy and delicacy to preserve the sprayed layer. Therefore, when working on the roof, shoes with soft soles are used.

The technology of mounting a roof from a metal tile profile is not complicated. Following her points and proper maintenance of the roof in the future can remove the issue of overlapping the building from the agenda for 50 years.

In contact with

The choice of roofing material is not an easy task. It is necessary that the roof be reliable, beautiful, durable, and even, preferably, inexpensive. All these requests are answered by a roof made of metal. It must be added to the pluses that it is not the most difficult installation, which even a person without roofing experience can handle with their own hands.

Metal roofing is beautiful, reliable, durable and inexpensive

Types of metal tiles

The metal tile is molded from sheet metal 0.35-0.7 mm thick, on which protective and decorative compositions are applied. It turns out a multi-layer cake. The basis of this building material is most often steel, but there are options from copper and aluminum. Since aluminum and copper are much more expensive than steel, products made from them have a high price. For this reason, copper or aluminum metal tiles are almost never found, but if desired, they can be delivered to order.

There are on sale both imported and domestic metal tiles. The European version comes strictly from steel 0.5 mm thick - this is spelled out in the standard. In our GOST, from 0.45 to 0.5 mm is allowed.

Except different materials bases, applied different protective covering. First of all, there are two types of steel protection against oxidation - zinc and aluminum-zinc. The second option appeared not so long ago, but it is he who provides better protection, although such processing costs a little more.

There are more different compositions for the top coat, one that, along with weather protection, gives the material one color or another.

Types of protective and decorative external coatings

The outer covering of the metal tile performs two functions at the same time. It protects the base metal from corrosion, and gives the material an attractive appearance. There are the following types of this coverage:

1. The most common metal roofing has a glossy polyester (PE) coating - about 70% of the total number of roofs are covered with this type of material. This is because it has an average price and good performance. Layer thickness 25-30 microns, service life 5-10 years. This coating is resistant to ultraviolet radiation and corrosion, but is easily damaged mechanically - scratches appear even when a large amount of snow comes off. Therefore, polyester metal tiles are not recommended for use in regions with heavy snowfalls. In other areas, to prevent massive snowfall, it is desirable to install a snow retention system. If you cover the roof with such material, you must be careful during installation.

   

2. Matte polyester (MPE) is obtained by adding Teflon. As a result, the film is more durable - the service life is 10-15 years, it can also be used in snowy regions. This composition is applied with a thickness of at least 35 microns. The disadvantage of tile coated with matte polyester is a smaller range of colors (about 20 shades compared to 40 glossy).

   

3. Plastisol (PVC) is a PVC-based compound. It has a beautiful structural surface, is applied in a layer of 200 microns, due to which the coating is resistant to damage. The disadvantage is low resistance to ultraviolet radiation, which significantly narrows the range of use. In addition, in some countries, due to the presence of polyvinyl chloride, this coating is prohibited.

   

4. Pural is a coating based on polyurethane with additives of polymers. Available in glossy (PUR) and matte (MatPUR) versions. Layer thickness - 50 microns, service life - up to 30 years. This is one of the best options: resistant to mechanical damage (worse than palstisol, but better than everyone else), tolerates ultraviolet and aggressive environments well, can be used for roofing on the sea coast.

   

   Pural is one of the most durable coatings

5. Polydifluoride (PVF or PVDF) is a composition based on polyvinyl fluoride with the addition of acrylic (20%). The main advantage is the high elasticity of the coating, due to which, with a small thickness (30 microns), the film is very resistant to mechanical damage. Other advantages are a wide range of colors, fade resistance, long service life - up to 30 years. The disadvantage is the highest price.

   

   The most expensive and durable coating is polydifluoride

It is clear that when building a house you do not want to spend extra money. Probably for this reason, most developers choose the cheapest option - polyester-coated metal tiles. But this is not the best solution. Let's guess. The service life of a metal tile with polyester is no more than 5-10 years, the average cost - with a metal thickness of 0.45 mm - about 260 rubles / m 2, with a steel thickness of 0.5 mm - 440 rubles / m 2. Even roofing material will last 10 years, the price of a square for a year will be 26 rubles and 44 rubles. Now let's take a very a good option- covered with pural. With a metal thickness of 0.5 mm, the cost is from 510 rubles / m 2 to 635 rubles / m 2 (depending on the manufacturer). Service life - 30 years. For a year of service, this will be 12-17 rubles / m 2. The difference is obvious. And this is without taking into account the work to cover the roof, and this is also time and money.

Profile views

When laying a metal tile, its geometric dimensions and wave parameters are important - a crate is calculated and mounted under them. Also, the wave height determines the degree of rigidity of the sheet - at high wind loads, a material with a high wave (more than 50 mm) is required - the most rigid, under normal conditions, a metal tile with a small wave (less than 50 mm) is suitable.

The waveform is symmetrical and asymmetrical, more rounded or with straight lines. There are quite a few different profiles. The table shows the geometric dimensions (useful width of a metal tile sheet, overlap, wave parameters), which will be useful when calculating the quantity.

Metal roofing in 70% of cases is made from the Monterrey profile. It has a rounded, slightly asymmetrical waveform. There are 7 subspecies with different wave parameters.

The next most popular profile is Cascade. About 15% of metal roofs are made of it. It is formed by straight lines, has a clear geometry. It looks very interesting on the roofs of complex shapes with a large number of broken lines.

This profile is used more in regions with medium wind and snow loads- the wave height is small, the load withstands medium.

About 10% of the market is occupied by Andalusia metal tiles. More than anyone else, it looks like a classic semicircular tile. The profile is symmetrical, with pronounced drops.

The profile is designed so that the joint is located on the wall of the wave, it is practically invisible. The impression of a monolithic roofing is created.

Sheet dimensions and wave parameters of the Andalusia metal tile

If we talk about color, then depending on the type of coating, shades are usually from 20 to 40 pieces. Choose the one that suits you more. The service life or other characteristics do not depend on the color, although it is believed that dark colors fade faster. In fact, the rate of fading depends on the quality of the coating and the pigment, but not on the color.

Calculation of the amount of metal tiles

To calculate the required number of sheets of material, you first need to determine the type of profile and the manufacturer of the metal tile - you will need the exact dimensions of the material itself, and each profile has its own. Then it is necessary to make accurate measurements of the slopes - the length, height, if any, it is necessary to measure all the protrusions or other decorative elements that will need to be sheathed with roofing material. If the roof has a complex shape, it is better to draw its plan, put down all the dimensions and then sit down for the calculations.

Number of rows

It is best to look for metal tiles not in stores or markets. It is advisable to go directly to the manufacturer. It's not just the price - it may not differ very much, but the fact that many workshops / factories offer to cut sheets of the required dimensions. The minimum sheet height is 0.7 m, the maximum is 8 m. That is, you can order the required number of sheets covering the roof slope from the ridge to the overhang (including the ledge).

This option is good because the metal roof will not have horizontal joints, which means there will be less chance of a leak. The second plus is the minimum amount of waste and a smaller amount of the material itself (due to the absence of horizontal overlaps, several square meters). Cons - difficulties with delivery, lifting long sheets up, inconvenient installation.

When using sheets of standard sizes, the height of the roof slope is divided by the useful length of the sheet. The resulting figure is always rounded up. The useful length is obtained after the horizontal overlap is subtracted from the total length - from 100 to 200 mm. The flatter the slope, the greater the overlap of the sheets is necessary so that precipitation cannot enter the under-roof space. On roofs with a slope of up to 12°, one sheet overlaps the other by at least 200 mm, with a slope of 12° to 30°, the overlap is 150-200 mm, more than 30° - 100-150 mm. The specified amount of overlap is subtracted from the total length of the sheet, this will be the “useful length”.

An example of calculating the number of rows of metal tiles on the roof. Let the length of the slope be 4.5 m, the useful length of the sheet is 2.3 m. Divide 4.5 by 2.3, we get 1.95, round to an integer - we get 2 rows. In this case, only a small part of one sheet will go to waste, but there are times when more than half is cut off. This is very unprofitable, since you can’t use this piece anywhere else.

Number of sheets in a row

Take the length of the slope and divide by the useful width of the sheet. This setting is specified in technical specifications to metal tiles. Most often it is 110 cm (1.1 m). The resulting number is rounded up, we get the number of sheets in a row.

An example of the calculation of sheets of metal tiles in a row. Let the length of the overhang be 8 m, the useful width of the sheet is 1.1 m. When dividing, we get 7.27 pieces, but we round up to a larger integer and get 8 pieces in one row. Moreover, more than 2/3 of one sheet will go to waste.

Features of hip roofs

At hip roofs slopes have a triangular or trapezoidal shape. Here it is necessary to select the length of the sheet - to minimize the amount of waste.

The height is chosen so that no more than half goes to waste. It is quite difficult to do this manually, and still there is a solid error - there will be 20-25% more waste than when calculating using programs. They are usually available from vendors and manufacturers. It is better to provide them with an accurate calculation, and at home to pre-measure the parameters of the roof (or call a measurer), and then try to choose the dimensions yourself. Then you can compare the number required material calculated by you and proposed.

Determination of the number of additional elements

Roofing from metal tiles requires a large number of different additional elements(dobors), which make out the ridge, the edge of the overhang, the sides of the slope, the passage of the pipe, the valley (the junction of two adjacent roof slopes). The more complex the shape of the roof, the more dobros are required. Downtime gable roof ridge elements and plugs, cornice and gable trims will be needed. That's all.

What are the additional elements for a roof made of metal and why are they needed

Despite the wide variety of extensions, they are all considered the same. Take the length of the surface on which you want to mount and divide by the useful length of the element. It is usually standard and is 1.9 m (total length 2 m). The result is rounded up.

What and how to mount

Fasten the metal tile special self-tapping screws with rubber washers. As well as the main material, they are made of galvanized steel, and on top they are painted in a tone with its coating. During installation, the self-tapping screw must be screwed in strictly perpendicular to the roof surface, its inclination is not allowed.

When fixing a metal tile, it is also necessary to monitor how tightly the fasteners adhere to the surface. You can’t tighten it too much, bending the metal, but you can’t allow a loose fit either - the connection will not be airtight.

Lathing under the metal tile

A metal tile is a rather rigid material, therefore a sparse crate is made under it, which consists of planks that are located along the roof overhang.

What material

If a metal roof has simple design, an inch edged board (24-25 mm thick) 100 mm wide goes to the crate. On a roof of complex shape or in regions with large snow loads, it is better to use a board of 32 mm thickness or a beam of 50-50 mm. The beam is also used with a large distance between the rafters (more than 80 cm).

Lathing step

Installation of metal tiles on the roof has one important feature. There is the strongest place in the profile - under the step of the wave in the hollow. This is where you need to screw the screw. The crate must be made so that the middle of the bar is just under this place. This is precisely what causes difficulties: profiles have different sizes, therefore, each of them requires its own installation step for the lathing slats. This value can be determined by measuring the already existing material, but, usually, this parameter is indicated in the instructions for the metal tile.

There are several important points of the device of the crate under the metal tile. Please note that the first plank along the overhang is thicker than all the others - the step height for this profile is added to the selected plank thickness. In addition, this plank is made wider than all the others - a dropper will be attached to it, which closes the cut, protecting the wood from precipitation.

Also note that the second bar is not stuffed with a standard, but with a shortened step, otherwise you will not get further into the wave. The step is also different when installing the last bar near the ridge - it is obtained in fact, as well as the height of the bar. We remind you that there should be sufficiently large gaps in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ridge - and the crate and roofing material should not be joined. This is necessary for proper ventilation of the attic.

Installation procedure and features

Before you cover the roof with a metal tile with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with the rules for working with the material:

• First of all, you need to take care of proper storage- in ventilated stacks, shifted with bars.
• When cutting, do not use an angle grinder (grinder), but cut only with a jigsaw or scissors for metal. The grinder overheats the metal, due to which the zinc evaporates, in the places of the cut the material will begin to rust.
• Start laying the sheets from the lower right corner (the installation diagram of the metal tiles is in the photo below).
• When mounting, wear soft, well-fitting shoes, step only in the lower part of the wave.

Next, we will talk about the device. Metal roofing comes in two versions: with a cold or insulated attic. Depending on the type chosen, the order of work changes - when arranging a warm attic, two more layers are added - a heater and a vapor barrier membrane from the side of the room.

Cold metal roofing

This type of roof is suitable if the attic is planned to be non-residential. Then all the insulation is concentrated in the ceiling, and the function of the roof is only to protect from rain and wind. The order of work is as follows:

Warm roof

When constructing an insulated roof made of metal tiles in the roofing cake, another heat-insulating material is added, which is fixed between the rafters, and a vapor barrier film, which is stuffed onto the rafters from the attic side. Further, the entire installation process is similar.

How to attach sheets

When we cover the roof with a metal tile, we must correctly position the screws. There are several rules to follow:

• Self-tapping screws are installed in the lower part of the wave, 2 cm below the step.
• The bottom row, along the overhang, is attached to each wave. Fasteners are also installed in places of horizontal and vertical joints.
• The waves between the horizontal joints are fastened through one in a checkerboard pattern.

These rules are clearly shown in the diagram. In a graphic image, some things are easier to understand.

Portal "Dachny Expert" expresses its gratitude to the company "Spets.Krovlya" for expert assistance in the preparation of this material.

Spets.Krovlya LLC is a reliable contractor for pitched roofs of any complexity. Guaranteed quality, clear deadlines and a fixed price, which is immediately spelled out in the contract and will not change!

A metal tile is a roofing material in the form of profiled steel sheets with a polymer coating. It is applied to a covering of roofs with an angle more than 14 degrees.

Outwardly, it looks like a classic ceramic tile, but surpasses it in reliability and ease of installation. In this article, we looked at which is better, ?

Material stable to temperature fluctuations and to other negative climatic influences. Its main disadvantage is low soundproofing characteristics, but it is eliminated with proper work.

In this article, you will learn how to make a metal tile roof with your own hands, step by step from A to Z. If you do not know how to choose a metal tile, then.

This stage of work should be given Special attention, since it will be on the crate. Also, this design provides natural interior roof space.

1. Metal roofing is made from wooden beam . The mutual arrangement of the boards can be continuous and thinned.
2. Most commonly used sparse constructions, while the distance between the boards () is strictly tied to the distance between the lower depressions of the waves of the tiles, since in these places the material has the greatest strength.
3. Distance between the first two bars from the side of the slope should be approximately 70 centimeters less than the established step.
4. The minimum thickness and width of the board for the crate are 25 and 100 mm respectively.
5. The width of the board for the counter-lattice can be half as much. The first board from the edge of the roof should be 15-20 mm thicker than all the others.

NOTE!

boards pre calibrated in one size to avoid future distortions and irregularities in the location of the tiles.

Lathing step

The installation of the structure is carried out after completion . The main crate is attached to the counter-crate, which is connected to the truss frame with self-tapping screws. Additional support boards are laid on the roof ridge under the metal tile.

Calculation of metal tiles

Count the required amount of material for the construction of the roof is produced as follows (or use):

When counting the number of sheets in a row, you need to keep in mind the value overlap, which can reach 15-20 centimeters.

To ensure that there is no shortage of material, it is best to round all values ​​up.

Roof calculation

Metal roofing: waterproofing and vapor barrier

Before proceeding with the installation of metal tiles with your own hands, you should take care of isolation . Protection internal spaces from liquid provided with layers of vapor barrier and waterproofing.

Waterproofing is located between the rafters and the counter-lattice and prevents moisture from the environment from entering the inside of the roofing pie. Most common waterproof materials- These are polyethylene and reinforced films. They are stretched over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe slope with slight sagging. It is important to ensure that the waterproofing does not intersect with thermal insulation.

roofing cake

Vapor barrier is a protective layer does not let moisture into the interior of the roof generated in the premises. This is the lowest layer of the roofing pie, it is located under the rafters (it is attached to them) and thermal insulation, thereby protecting it from condensation.

A mansard roof made of metal tiles must necessarily be vapor-insulated with high quality; in cold roofs without insulation, the installation of a vapor barrier is not mandatory.

Necessary tools and equipment

Covering the roof with metal tiles begins with preparing the necessary tools. To install a metal roof, you will need:

• Screwdriver.
• Rail.
• Metal shears or other metal cutting devices such as nibblers, circular saws, etc.
• Construction stapler.
• Roulette and marker.
• Components of the roof and roofing cake: tile sheets, self-tapping screws, hydro, steam and thermal insulation materials, beams for lathing and rafters.

NOTE!

When working with tiles you can't use grinder and other abrasive cutting tools, since it breaks the structure of the sheet.

Fastening and laying metal tiles - step by step

How to cover the roof with a metal tile with your own hands? Metal tile on self-tapping screws with a gasket made of ethylene-propylene rubber, which provides waterproofing of fastener areas.

If tiles with a hidden fastening are mounted, then galvanized self-tapping screws with a press washer are used.

Self-tapping screws must be tightened with optimal force.

If the holding force is insufficient moisture will get under the cap and cause it to corrode. If you tighten the screws too much, the gasket will deform, which will violate its tightness.

1. Before you cover the roof with a metal tile, you should make sure that the crate is symmetrical and reliable.
2. self-tapping screws screwed in in places of the lower deflection of the tile, they must enter strictly perpendicular to the plane of the boards of the crate.
3. When connecting two overlaps fastening is carried out in wave rises using shortened screws.
4. Installation of tiles begins from the lower left corner of the slope, subsequent sheets are stacked on top previous ones.
5. self-tapping screws screwed into each wave of tiles along the perimeter of the slope and in a checkerboard pattern in the interior areas. If a screwdriver is used for this, then its rotational effect on the material must be minimized.

Metal tile - do-it-yourself installation + instructions

Now you know how to properly lay a metal tile and we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the most important thing - instruction for the installation of metal tiles.

Installation of metal tiles - step by step instructions

How to properly cover the roof with a metal tile with your own hands? The first step is .

It is on it that all other elements of the roof will be fixed. The system is constructed from wooden beams, while their size exceeds the dimensions of the crate bars.

The most important elements of the rafters are:

• Mauerlat. This is the fulcrum of the structure.
• rafter legs. They hold on to themselves and rely on the Mauerlat.
• Racks. Reinforce the support of the rafter legs.

The fastening of the rafters to the wall is carried out using the so-called tavern. These are metal strips that connect two structures with nails or self-tapping screws.

Next are installed basic insulating layers: insulation, steam and waterproofing. A waterproofing film or membrane is applied to the rafter system and fastened to it with a stapler. Thermal insulation is placed in cells, formed by the intersections of the rafters, and is fixed with the help of cords drawn crosswise in the lower plane of the rafters.

Rafter installation

After the installation of protective structures is completed, you can proceed with the installation of the crate, on which, later, we will lay roofing. She superimposed over rafters and waterproofing layer and attached to the screws to these structures.

Do-it-yourself metal tile installation:

1. A cornice bar is attached to the frontal board, providing roof protection from the influence of the wind.
2. When performing work, the need to ensure good natural ventilation of the space is always taken into account. To do this, leave gaps between all layers of the roofing cake. The basis of natural ventilation is the possibility of free air circulation under the roof ridge.
3. The last step is installation of metal tiles. Please note that the sheets protrude beyond the edges of the crate by 5 centimeters and align horizontally along the cornice line.
4. ridge bar attached to additional two boards, which are installed at the junctions of two slopes during the installation of the crate. Such measures are necessary to ensure additional resistance of an important structural element to negative impacts.

metal roofing plan

• . They loosen the snow masses descending from the roof, making their fall relatively safe for building structures and for humans.
• Adjacency planks. These products frame the joints of the tiles with all important structures, such as chimneys and ventilation pipes.
• Corners and valleys. They protect all corner roof structures.
• low tide. Used to redirect the flow of rain and melt water.

Additional elements

• Distance between beams roof frame should be no more than 60-90 centimeters otherwise the roof structure may sag.
• When performing work, shoes must be worn on soft sole and move along the tile, stepping into its lower deflections. This will prevent the material from bursting.
• The absence of contacts between the protective layers is important not only to ensure ventilation, but to prevent them. mechanical damage during friction.
• To provide additional ventilation, you can equip dormer windows in the attic.
• For level installation of all elongated trim pieces need to stretch the thread and fix it between two already installed structures.

This is how the technology of laying metal tiles on the roof looks like. This material has an approximate service life of about 50 years, but without the need for repair work, operation will only take place if the installation is carried out correctly.

Useful video

Do-it-yourself metal tile laying in video format: