New doors are installed, debris is swept up and the idealistic picture of fresh renovation is broken only by slopes for entrance doors. Not always the companies that install the doors undertake to repair the slopes - the pleasure of putting the finish line in the repair in this case fell to you!

Do-it-yourself front door slopes - what to do?

If from the outside the doors are a complete composition with platbands, then inside the apartment the view is far from ideal: gray concrete, mounting foam, bricks and fixtures. All this disgrace will help to hide the internal slopes of the front door - a section of the wall bordering the entrance from the end. Fortunately, this process can be performed according to several scenarios, and you just have to choose which one will be the most understandable and accessible for you to complete.

People try to install slopes on the front door for two quite understandable reasons: to give a complete look and, more importantly, to hide the door frame fasteners, on which its burglary resistance depends. There are several ways to form slopes: sheathing with a finishing material on a previously prepared frame, grouting and plastering, gluing finishing materials. Finishing materials can be very different: the usual drywall, laminate, wooden lamellas, cellulose panels and much more.

Sealing the slopes of the front door with cement or putty mortar is the most effective in terms of sound insulation and insulation.

In addition, this option is most acceptable in terms of protecting the door structure - a burglar will have to make a lot of noise to find fasteners under a layer of cement. By itself, the mortar finish does not have a special visual appeal, however, decorative elements can be mounted on the mortar layer. Decoration Materials, achieving any effect, or apply textured paint.

The easiest and fastest way is to install the finishing material on the frame made of metal profile or wooden bars. In addition to simplicity, it is also economical, especially in cases where too much mortar is required to seal the slopes. This option allows even a person far from construction to achieve ideal flat surface. Frame slope– the only solution in cases where you want to install lighting and switches directly in doorway. Do not forget about the possibility of hiding the “traces” of communications in the frame - wires and cables.

Installation of slopes of the front door - the preparatory stage

Whatever finishing method you choose, the preparatory work will be the same. First you need to protect the door leaf and frame with masking tape, but it is better to cover the entire surface with a film. And only then proceed to leveling the base - if individual sections protrude too much, they need to be cut off, and also get rid of all loose materials that are too loose.

With a broom or a brush with a fairly coarse bristle, we sweep dust from all cracks and cracks, sweep every centimeter of the base thoroughly, especially if you decide to finish with a solution - the adhesion strength of materials depends on this. Further, the surface is primed with deep penetration compounds. However, foam concrete or similar loose material should be primed with a conventional surface primer.

At this stage, you can lay electrical wiring under the switch or provide a through hole for the cable - for this purpose, you can fix an aluminum tube at the very bottom of the plinth with a slightly larger diameter than the diameter of the cable, through which you can later lay it. If you plan to get by with the formation of a frame, then you will have to tinker with the wire after it has been created.

How to close the slopes of the front door - plaster

When the gypsum composition under the lighthouses has hardened, start kneading the cement-sand mortar in a standard ratio of 1 to 4. The sand for the mortar should be well sifted, without debris and lumps, the cement should be M400. It is necessary to mix the components construction mixer or a drill with a special nozzle at low speeds. The consistency of the finished solution should be at the level of the density of the curd mass. If you know how to work with the solution quickly, then you can add a portion of gypsum.

A wide spatula and trowel are the main tools for the master plasterer, without which he cannot level the surface. Having slightly moistened the base with water to increase the adhesion of materials, apply the solution to the slope and align with the beacons with a spatula. A day later, you can apply two layers of putty - the main and finishing. The last layer is polished with an abrasive mesh. What to do with the slope after that - leave it as it is, paint it or cover it with a finishing material - it's up to you, all options are acceptable.

How to make slopes of the front door on the frame - a quick way

The preparatory stage, described at the very beginning, is not canceled - although we do not use any solutions, we need to prime the surface. In the future, this will prevent it from shedding. To create a frame, you will need metal profiles used to create drywall structures, or wooden blocks. Both should fit snugly against the wall, so the surface should be fairly flat.

To strengthen the structure, jumpers are installed on the main load-bearing elements, especially at the corners between the sides of the opening and the upper plane. Then wires and cables are laid. If you use drywall for sheathing, it is enough to fix it around the perimeter with self-tapping screws. To hide the junction of the drywall and the wall, you can fill it with mortar, but it is easier and faster to cover it with platbands. Be sure to install perforated corners at the edges, and seal the joints with a special tape. It remains only to putty the surface and level it with a fine grater.

Medium-density MDF boards have better aesthetic and technical qualities. Fixing the panels can be carried out both with the help of self-tapping screws, and with the help of small nails, if the crate is wooden. Fasteners should be distributed along the edges or in other places that you plan to cover with trim and corners. You can fix the latter on liquid nails.

By the same principle, you can finish the surface of the slopes with a laminate or parquet board. It is somewhat easier with them - nails can be hammered into locks, this will not interfere with a high-quality connection. So all fasteners will be securely hidden from prying eyes, except that the corners will still have to be hidden behind the corners.

Slopes for entrance doors - a combination of materials

If you are not a master at leveling surfaces, this method is just right for you. The essence of the method is to attach the finishing materials not to the frame, but to a layer of cement-sand mortar or glue. To do this, the slopes for the entrance doors must already be leveled and primed. It is also necessary to mark the slope level and provide a stop for finishing materials. For this purpose, screws or self-tapping screws are screwed into the surface so that their caps form one straight line. Consider the thickness of the solution and the thickness of the finishing materials themselves, so as not to miscalculate with the overall dimensions of the slope.

Then we knead the solution according to the instructions already described above and fill the entire slope space with the finished mixture. To be more reliable, we recommend that the cement-sand mortar be brought out a little less than to the level of the hats, as evenly as you can. Let it harden properly (at least 1 day) and apply an adhesive solution to the surface.

Also apply glue to the reverse side of the finishing material. After attaching the trim sheets to the slope, lightly press them down so that they rest firmly on the surface and the air between them and the cement layer is released. Using the level, find out if you managed to set the sheets evenly, and while the glue has not hardened, correct their positions. Then you can attach trim and corners, if any.

The front door forms the first impression of the home, so it must be both reliable and aesthetically attractive, and well-mounted. At the same time, the complete editing cycle includes stages that are often neglected due to ignorance. These include finishing the slopes of the front door, which is necessary not only for the beauty of the structure, but also for high-quality operation for a long time.

What it is?

As practice shows, slopes are often confused with platbands, since platbands are their external, decorative part. By themselves, they have only an aesthetic function. But the slopes are involved in ensuring tightness, sound insulation and thermal insulation, increase the resistance of the front door to breaking.

By definition, slopes are the inner and outer portions of a wall that “surround” a door frame. Slopes are also considered to be the left, right and upper sides of the doorway in which the door is supposed, but not installed. Not all types doorways there are slopes on both sides. Sometimes they may be absent on the outside, but on the inside they are in most cases.

The device of the door slope is quite complicated. High-quality slopes are not just parts of the wall protruding beyond the frame, they are the optimal combination of materials, each of which is necessary to perform a separate function. Materials are superimposed on the principle of "layer cake".

The first layer is rough. To create it are used:

• Primer. It is applied to the cleaned wall surface as a pre-finish coating. Priming compositions are necessary to level the absorbent properties of the surface, as well as to improve the “adhesion” of the following materials to it.

• Styrofoam. This layer is optional, but desirable in cases where the wall needs to be insulated. This is true for apartments on the lower floors and private houses.

• Plaster. The primer improves the adhesion of materials to the wall, but does not level the surface. Plastering is necessary to fill in irregularities, recesses or cracks in the wall. This process is the most time-consuming and long and requires certain skills and abilities.

Alternatively, you can use an easier-to-use material - drywall. This option allows you to quickly prepare the surface for further types of finishes, but it is not suitable in all cases. In the conditions of the Russian climate, it is more often used for interior decoration or in warm regions with high humidity.

• Reinforcing corners. These thin but strong metal corners are essential for protecting plaster at the corners of slopes. The front door is a place with a lot of traffic, and the corners of the opening are often hit, hit, scratched. Without proper protection, plastered corners will quickly begin to crumble and lose their presentable appearance.

• Putty. With its help, all the shortcomings are leveled after the installation of the corners. Putty compositions lie in an uneven layer, therefore, after they dry, the surfaces of the slopes must be cleaned. For this purpose, fine-grained sheets of sandpaper or small power grinders are used. Furniture is also suitable if it reaches hard-to-reach places.

• Re-priming before applying the decorative coating.

The second layer is the finishing, or front. There are no strict rules in choosing finishes. It depends only on individual preferences and financial capabilities. The only condition that must be met is to choose a finish that is in harmony with the door leaf and wall decoration.

What to decorate inside the apartment?

The slopes protrude both from the outside and from inside doors. Accordingly, there are two types of finishes - external and internal. External, as a rule, is less variable. The main focus is on the design of the door leaf, and the slopes echo either with it or with the wall decoration. More often these are practical and concise options that do not attract attention.

Inside an apartment or house, the slope decoration becomes part of the interior. She is assigned a decorative role, so the types of materials and methods of decoration are of great importance.

Finishing with facing materials from the inside is of the following types:

• Surface plastering.
• Bonding finishing materials.
• Frame cladding.
• Coloring.

For the first type, plaster, primer, water and all the necessary tools are used. This process takes a lot of time, but it makes it possible to putty all the irregularities, insulate the structure, and make a layer of the desired thickness. Decor from other materials is often superimposed on top of the plaster, but in itself it is already considered a finished finish, therefore it belongs to the basic repair techniques.

“Clean” slopes after plastering are easy to paint in any suitable color, while they are polished to smoothness or, on the contrary, left embossed.

For decoration, you can use the following materials:

• Ceramic tile (tile). Differs in rigidity, moisture resistance, hygiene, low price and a wide range of colors, shapes and textures. It is easy to care for the ceramic surface, however, the tile can crack or chip off due to mechanical damage, and during the replacement process you will have to work hard so as not to damage neighboring elements.

The undeniable advantage of tiles is the many possibilities for design. The mosaic looks especially original. It can be made from solid tiles small size or small pieces. Mosaic fragments are obtained artificially from tiles, cutting it into pieces of the desired size, and jacks of all trades can use for this purpose broken tiles which is considered unsuitable. The result is original and unique, and the cost of materials is minimal.

Any construction adhesive is suitable for gluing tiles. It is applied evenly with a plastic spatula, and the seams are rubbed in a day with a rubber spatula.

• Porcelain tile. This material is often confused with ceramic tiles. Indeed, in the manufacture of porcelain stoneware, the same composition of the substance is used as for tiles, but the production technology is very different. As a result, the tile has a color coating only on top and becomes ugly when chipped, while porcelain stoneware has a uniform color throughout the entire thickness of the slab and damage is less noticeable on it. Also, its structure is denser, so it is more resistant to damage. In addition to being moisture resistant, environmentally friendly and durable, it also has frost resistance. In appearance, this material is more noble, but the color spectrum is very limited and its cost is higher than for ceramic tiles.

• Decorative rock. It is truly an interior decoration, although it is far from always appropriate and is expensive. A feature of this material is that it can be used to simulate a real masonry. He has an attractive appearance, gives zest to the interior, impeccable in terms of performance. The stone is not prickly, easy to clean, refers to durable and safe materials. To fix it on the surface of the slopes, construction glue is used, but there are also ways to “sheath” the surface with decorative stone.

• Wallpaper. Wallpapering is perhaps the easiest and most budgetary way to decorate. It is most convenient to stick wallpaper on slopes with plasterboard trim. The glue will also “grab” on the plaster, but for this the surface will have to be leveled especially carefully so that “bubbles” do not form on the wallpaper.

Given the high traffic at the entrance to the room, it is better to choose a washable wallpaper and in dark colors.

Sheathe openings with the following materials:

• MDF. Finely dispersed fraction panels are very popular in all types of finishes. They are universal for any interior, look aesthetically pleasing and have a number of other advantages: strength, a variety of coatings that imitate different types of wood, ease of installation, improved sound and heat insulation in the room.

• Chipboard. Finishing chipboard is the easiest way to tidy up part of the doorway if, after installing the door, it looks deplorable. In this case, even a primer and putty are not needed. It is enough to sheathe the surface with even sheets, matching in tone and pattern to the door leaf.

• Laminate. Laminate sheathing is widespread for two reasons: it is inexpensive and looks an order of magnitude more solid than non-laminated recycled wood materials. The basis of the coating is fiberboard or chipboard (therefore, “sew up the slopes of chipboard” means the same as laminate), and on top it is decorated with a polymer film. The most common option is the stylization of precious wood, but there are other shades in a dark and light palette. It has a number of advantages inherent in all wood-based materials, as well as certain disadvantages. So, among the most common disadvantages are hydrophobia (the material can exfoliate and swell from water) and average wear resistance.

• Dobory. sheathing internal slopes from the addition - this is rather a necessity than an element of decor. Dobors are narrow plates made of different materials, which are necessary to mask slopes, the width of which is more than 7 cm. As a rule, they are used when the door and slopes must be sheathed in the same style and with the same materials.

• Drywall. The choice of drywall is relevant when you need a high-quality and budget result, which is convenient to work with with your own hands. In addition, drywall perfectly levels the surface for decorative finishes in the future and enhances the insulating properties of the front door.

• Plastic. No matter how versatile MDF, laminate and similar materials are, plastic door requires the design of the adjacent space with PVC-based materials. The use of sandwich panels is especially popular. They have a variable width - from 5 to 150 cm, which allows you to cover each side of the slope with just one piece.

The performance characteristics of the product are also on top: an aesthetic appearance that persists for a long time, biostability, resistance to humidity and temperature extremes, the presence of air sections inside the panels, which ensure the preservation of heat in the house, and hygiene.

Modern plastic manufacturing technologies guarantee it environmental safety and non-toxicity.

• Siding. The characteristics of siding panels are very diverse, because they are made from various materials from aluminum to plastic. Slopes are finished with aluminum, copper, wood, plinth and vinyl siding.

The best option is vinyl. It is a monolithic PVC panel, the main feature of which is flexibility. It can be given absolutely any shape, ideally adjusted to angles without joints and gaps. Vinyl is not subject to rotting and burning processes, is not afraid of water, does not crack at temperature extremes, is easily cleaned of contaminants, and is not of interest to fungi and insects. The front side of the panels can be plain, with a pattern, stylized as stone, wood or brick.

The framing means pre-assembly metal (aluminum) or wooden profile around the perimeter of the doorway, to which any material is subsequently attached using self-tapping screws. This method is considered the most time-consuming, since before attaching the profile, it is necessary to prime and level the slopes with cement mortar.

Some types of materials (plaster, chipboard, MDF and drywall without a decorative coating) need to be painted to harmoniously blend with the interior of the room.

For these purposes are used:

• Acrylic paints. They are convenient to add to the composition for plastering the surface. This simultaneously reduces the number of finishing steps, since surface leveling and painting take place simultaneously, and makes damage less noticeable, since the entire layer of plaster is painted over;
• Water emulsion. Such paints can be added to the plaster or painted on the wall over the leveling layer. Using acrylic and paint water based, it is important to remember that they must be primed from above, otherwise the surface will get dirty. You can dilute the primer yourself from PVA and water in a ratio of 1: 5;
• Latex based paints can also be used in two ways, but their advantage is that the final primer is not needed. Latex compounds are not hydrophobic and easy to clean;
• Alkyd and oil. These compounds are indispensable in conditions of high humidity. They are more wear-resistant and dense, but they are more difficult to work with due to the thick consistency and toxic smell.

How to insulate?

Thermal insulation and sound insulation are functions of the front door, which partially depend on the type of slope finish. To warm the room, it is not necessary to run to the store for a heater. First you need to take care of maximum tightness, and you should start with the front door. This will not only increase the level of comfort in the house, but also help save money on utility bills in the future.

Insulation of slopes from the inside is carried out step by step:

• Choice of materials. The leading positions are occupied by sandwich panels, drywall, polystyrene foam, mineral wool, polystyrene. Experts recommend choosing polystyrene, which is superior to other materials in many ways. At a relatively low cost, it is capable of thermoforming and vacuum forming, is resistant to moisture and chemical processing, does not smell, is environmentally friendly, and can be processed in various ways. If polystyrene is not available, it can be replaced with a mineral slab (wool).

• Preparatory work. They include all measures to clean the work surface. Need to cut mounting foam, remove the old coating, if any, to eliminate irregularities as much as possible. After removing the old plaster, the surface must be dusted with a vacuum cleaner and a damp sponge.

• Primer and putty. It is imperative to prime the surface of the slopes. This will ensure a good adhesion of subsequent layers to the wall, as well as minimize the likelihood of fungi and bacteria on the wall. Suitable for this purpose any soil of deep action. After applying it, the surface must be allowed to dry for 3-4 hours. Reapplying primer to plaster is acceptable.

It is not necessary to putty the slopes, but it is desirable, especially if the surface has many defects, chips and depressions. All these minor gaps greatly affect the insulating qualities of the front door.

• Heater installation. At this stage, it is the turn of the insulating material. Polystyrene boards and mineral wool are glued with specialized adhesives. The glue is applied with a spatula to the slab, then it is applied to the surface of the slope and adjusted to the level. The drying time of the glue is at least a day. After that, the plates are fixed with dowels.

• Fixing the heater. Ideally, polystyrene or mineral boards should be covered with a plastic mesh for interior finishing. This will protect against cracks and bumps in the future. The glue is applied to the mesh in layers, each layer dries to hardness in 6-12 hours.

• Surface leveling. Here again, putty is needed. You can level the surface up to 2-3 layers. Then you need to let it dry for the time indicated in the instructions on the container, and process it with fine-grained sandpaper. The grain number on the sandpaper package is at least 100.

• Final finishing. It includes the application of a colorless primer, followed by painting or any other decoration method.

It is important to consider that finishing materials have not only their own characteristics that affect thermal insulation, but also their own weight. It is necessary to calculate in advance whether the insulated slope will withstand, for example, the weight of porcelain stoneware or wall paneling, or whether paint, plastic, wallpaper should be preferred.

How to make a slope on the front door from mdf panels with your own hands, see the next video.

Colors

Slopes are a small detail that can both support the style in the interior and completely break out of it. The inappropriate color of the finish will become an element that violates the integrity of the overall picture, so it is important to choose the right color in accordance with the design of the door and the decoration of the walls, floor and ceiling in the room.

No matter how chic the door you set for yourself, and without a decent frame, it will look, to put it mildly, unpresentable. Finishing the slopes of the front door is no less important than its installation. But often a person has no idea how to finish the slopes of the front door. Let's talk about how to improve the doorway, discuss the pros and cons of the most popular materials.

Often, it is the slopes that are responsible for the presentable appearance of the doorway.

Before you decorate the doorway, let's figure out what the openings of the entrance doors are in general.

1. The classic regular rectangle is the standard, most common option. No matter how strange it may sound, but deciding how to finish the doorway of the front door with classic shapes is the most difficult thing. You can decorate with anything, but the problem lies in the large selection of materials, which can be difficult to decide on. The main plus is that finishing rectangular doorways with your own hands will not cause much difficulty.
2. The arch looks more impressive, but finishing the door slopes after installing the arched entrance door is technologically more difficult. Plus, not all materials will fit. Except for the branded overlays that come with the door, then only plaster, drywall and elastic polyurethane slopes remain.

Arched openings look more impressive.

If the arched design of the doorways haunts you, it is not necessary to equip a real arch: it is much easier to install a decorative overlay in the form of an arch in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe lintel (upper crossbar). This can be done both from the inside and outside, the door itself and the slopes will be rectangular.

A decorative overlay will help to design the doors in the form of an arch.

How and with what you can finish the slopes of the main door of your home

If you are faced with the task of how to trim the slopes of the front door, you can find step-by-step instructions in and on the video in this article, and we will try to analyze all the pros and cons to the smallest detail, which are often forgotten to be mentioned in brochures.

Option number 1. Good old plaster

Finishing doorways with cement plaster is deservedly considered the patriarch of the direction. This finish of the door slopes appeared along with the doors themselves.

A well-plastered and finished slope will last for more than a dozen years, it is not afraid of any temperature changes, or humidity, or cold. The plaster will fill all voids and irregularities. To spoil such a slope, you need to beat on it with a hammer. If you are not going to influence your doors so radically, then you can be calm about the rest. To freshen up the surroundings, the plastered slope can be repainted, wallpapered or lined with a fashionable now reflective film with a 3D effect: a smooth and durable surface will withstand everything.

But plaster also has a downside. Of all the finishing methods, plastering slopes is the most time-consuming and dirty process.

Plastering the slopes of the entrance doors is not an easy task.

Of course, if you install the beacons correctly, buy good plaster mixes and high-quality tools, then things will go much faster. Although believe me, if you have never plastered doorways with your own hands, this kind of design is not for you. In addition, plaster is, in fact, a stone, only artificial, and you should not expect any serious insulation from such a finish.

There is one more professional nuance. Even on a well-leveled slope, you can only paste wallpaper, and then after two layers of primer. For high-quality painting, one plaster is not enough: the surface will still have to be additionally puttied and sanded, and puttying and grinding will take no less time, effort and money than plaster.

Plastered doorways look simple yet elegant.

By the way, if you plan to finish the slope with natural or artificial stone, then the plaster will be the best and most reliable base, you do not need to putty it.

Option number 2. Drywall slopes

The next most reliable is the finishing of the doorway of the front door with drywall sheets. This cladding is also called dry plaster.

Drywall attracts with speed and relative ease of installation, plus, if necessary, door jambs can be closed almost completely. If you conditionally break down all the work, then in short, finishing the front door opening with sheets of moisture-resistant drywall consists of 5 stages:

1. According to the rules, before finishing the front door opening, the surface must be cleaned of debris and covered with soil. But if the base is solid, for example, a brick wall, then it is enough to brush off the dust and walk with a solution of copper sulfate so that the fungus does not start.
2. Next, we install a frame of metal profiles. There are wall and ceiling profiles, so for slopes it is better to take ceiling (UD / CD). If a large space is covered, then a solid frame is mounted, and when there is not enough space, only extreme vertical guides are placed.

1. GKL is better to take wall (12.5 mm), and the sheets must be moisture resistant. If an arch is formed, then there is an arched drywall (7.5 mm) for it. Sheets are fastened to the frame with self-tapping screws, and glued to the wall tile adhesive or similar building mix.
2. When the structure is assembled, it must be puttied. Remember - nothing is glued to the "bare" sheets, it is not painted or attached.
3. The last step is the decor of the doorway. It all depends on taste, skill and financial capabilities. The easiest way is to paste over the slopes with wallpaper. They don't need to be carefully sanded. Next comes the painting, but before it you have to sand the slope well. Tiles or stone are more expensive, but glued quickly and easily.

At the hollow drywall slope there is one more indisputable advantage: it can be filled with insulation, thereby increasing heat and sound insulation. In this case, it is better to take polystyrene as a heater. There is an option to blow the mounting foam inside, but you need to act carefully: when it expands, it can squeeze out the sheet. It is advisable not to use mineral or any other wool for warming the passages of the entrance doors: it will become damp from condensate and become useless.

Many people blame drywall for the fact that it allegedly breaks easily, but believe me, if you mount good frame with a gap between the profiles of no more than 200 mm, and when mounting on glue, you will not regret the glue, then you don’t have to worry about the strength of the slope.

Option number 3. MDF

Finishing the jambs of the front door with MDF boards is currently considered perhaps the most common. It's pretty tough and at the same time beautiful material, such panels behave well at temperature extremes and in conditions of high humidity.

When choosing MDF panels, there is a small nuance: you can take any sheets to finish the front door from the inside, but under the outer slopes, especially if the doors go straight to the street, you should buy only moisture resistant ones (their back has a greenish tint), otherwise after a year all beauty will bubble.

In this case, we are only interested in laminated panels, it makes no sense to take ordinary ones and then paint them separately. The range also includes panels covered with natural wood veneer. The price for them is about half as high as for laminated ones, but such slopes are practically indistinguishable from expensive wood.

A backlit slope made of veneered MDF is not only beautiful, but also convenient.

Concerning self-assembly, then dobors, platbands, mounting angles and other things to buy and install are not a problem. Essentially, you are dealing with a constructor. First, a frame of wooden bars is constructed along the perimeter of the opening, and panels are already attached to it.

From a relatively expensive tool you will need Miter saw or at least a jigsaw, as well as a drill and a screwdriver. A hammer, tape measure, etc. are usually in the arsenal of any home craftsman.

The downside of MDF slopes is only the price of the material itself. More expensive than such a cladding is only natural wood of elite species, by the way, it is mounted in the same way, but it’s better not to take it on yourself: the risk of spoiling is too great.

To equip a door slope from MDF is not as difficult as it seems.

Option number 4. Clapboard

Price for a good wooden lining approximately equal to the cost of MDF, but in this case you get slopes made of natural wood. This design of the doorway looks pretty solid, but there are nuances.

Any lining is mounted on wooden crate, which means that you should have enough space for such a crate. Accordingly, it is problematic to make small slopes from the lining.

Natural wood is a good material, but rather capricious. In extreme conditions of entrance doors, wood must be covered with antiseptics, fire retardants and other protective compounds.

Previously, the lining was completely varnished, now design experts do not recommend varnish. The fact is that most people associate varnished lining with balconies and garages, and the front door is still the face of the home. It is best to buy an oil-wax impregnation and apply it. The result pleases: quickly, beautifully and inexpensively.

Option number 5. PVC

Slopes from PVC finishing panels can be mounted within 1 day, plus the price of this material is affordable for almost everyone, but decorating a doorway with plastic has whole line negative points.

Plastic PVC slopes are mounted easily and quickly.

You can break through a hollow thin panel by simply leaning on it. As practice has shown, even the highest quality plastic panels on a good crate in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe front doors last no more than two to three years.

Under the plastic you need a wooden or metal crate. Theoretically, such a panel can be glued to a plastered slope liquid nails, but if you have a good plastered slope, then why do you need plastic then.

In addition, according to fire regulations, it is extremely undesirable to mount plastic in the entrance area. In the event of a fire, it will actively melt and emit suffocating acrid smoke, thereby blocking the exit.

Although, on the other hand, as a temporary solution to the problem, plastic fits perfectly. And when you have enough funds, you can quickly dismantle it and install solid slopes from high-quality MDF on the same crate.

PVC panels have a fairly wide range of decor.

Option number 6. Decorative polyurethane lining

If you dream of seeing your doors decorated with luxurious moldings, we recommend that you pay attention to decorative polyurethane linings. Visually, such a finish cannot be distinguished from good stucco, and the performance of such slopes is an order of magnitude higher. The only problem is that the price for such decorations is quite serious, plus you can’t glue an overlay on a curved base. In other words, you will first need to level the slope with plaster or drywall, and then glue polyurethane beauty on it.

If the slopes are decorated with luxurious stucco, this speaks of good taste and the status of the owner.

A few words about the decorative finishing of door slopes

Finishing decorative finish is applied only on a solid prepared base, respectively, we can only choose between plaster and drywall.

1. Most often, people choose simple staining. The quality of modern paints is such that they can retain their original appearance for quite a long time and under any weather conditions, plus, if you get tired of the color, you can always repaint.
2. The next in the ranking of finishing door slopes is decorative tiles. Tiles for entrance doors are not suitable, so it is better to give preference to clinker tiles. If funds allow, then it is possible to line the slopes with artificial stone, by and large this is the same tile, only made from stone dust and polymers.
3. The top three leaders are natural stone. Pleasure is far from cheap, in addition, it is better not to undertake it with your own hands and without preparation. Natural stone is a heavy and difficult material to process.

Qualitative fake diamond visually does not differ from natural.

Conclusion

In conclusion, we would like to note that it is better for homemade ones to dwell on materials designed for crates. These are MDF, wood and PVC. If you are confident in yourself, then you can swing at drywall. But we recommend leaving the plastering of slopes to professionals.

MDF door slopes are one of the most affordable for self-arrangement.

The first thing to do after setting the input door block, this is to tidy up the slopes for the entrance doors. Such is the technology of mounting the door frame that even with the most careful handling of the opening and the box, it is practically impossible to avoid updating the finishing of the front door jambs inside the apartment. If it was replaced by steel structure, then avoid repairing door slopes after installation iron door impossible. Therefore, the problem of finishing the space around the entrance block has to be solved long before the start of work.

Varieties of door slopes on the front door

There are several ways to put a door block at the entrance to a house or apartment. Depending on the size and design of the front door, the device, shape and size of the slope zone changes:

• Standard option. The entrance door with a supporting frame is taken out and installed along the outer plane of the main wall. In this case, the finishing of the slopes of the front door is carried out from the inside of the apartment;
• The reverse version, the front door with the frame is mounted on the inner surface of the wall. In this embodiment, the slopes are located outside the door block, but finishing the jambs of the front door is still necessary to preserve the appearance and protect the walls;
• The most difficult option. In this case, the door vestibule and the adjacent space are expanded to the size of the corridor wall.

For your information! The latter option more than doubles the area of ​​the door slopes on the entrance doors, the amount of work increases, but, according to the designers, it is this method of building a “tunnel” that is most convenient for small hallways and lobbies.

External slopes are usually simply plastered and painted to match the color of the front door. This is part of the external space, so most apartment owners do not attach much importance to their decoration. The main thing is that the ends of the walls are protected and the appearance is more or less ennobled. While there are many finishing options for the internal slopes of the front door, one is more interesting than the other.

How to make slopes of the front door with your own hands

There are several ways to decorate the jambs. The specific version depends on the thickness of the walls, the dimensions of the front door and the method of its installation.

If a mounting groove or perimeter was cut to install the door frame, then the front door carrier frame is installed in the doorway with a minimum excess above the rough surface of the walls. Most often, this situation occurs when repairing door slopes after installing an iron door.

Masters do not really like to work with a puncher, therefore, instead of fully cutting and expanding the opening for installing a larger metal front door, they prefer to make only a mounting groove.

In this case, slopes are formed by cutting and grinding concrete. bearing walls. The most time-consuming option, with minimal cost and low decorative effect.

Important! Polished door slopes on the front door are not recommended for private houses and apartments with an entrance door leading to the street. In this case, the formation of cold bridges and dampening of whitewash or paint is possible.

A more rational option would be to install slopes on the front door using an intermediate finishing layer with a thickness of at least 4 mm. If the wall is too thin, for example assembled wireframe or from prefabricated panels, it may be necessary to insulate the slope surface before proceeding with the laying of decorative trim.

In this case, in order to successfully mount the slopes on the front door with your own hands, you will need to increase the dimensions of the doorway by at least 2 cm in width and height. The specific size of the expansion is selected based on the material and method of arranging the jamb.

How to install slopes on the front door

The most difficult question is to choose the right way to lay decorative finishes.

Material on the surface of the walls of the vestibule can be laid in several ways:

• Stick on the walls when using roll or fabric coverings;
• Lay on a polyurethane foam base;
• Mount on a supporting frame assembled from rails or a mounting profile;
• Plaster or apply a decorative coating such as liquid wallpaper.

Of course, the above methods can and should be combined with each other, for example, for painting or sticking a soft decorative coating, you will need at least a primer and surface leveling in order to get rid of base defects.

Often, the preparation and alignment of the opening and vestibule takes more time than the actual finishing of the door slopes after the installation of the front door. For example, installing a reinforced steel frame under a heavy door leaf involves gating a whole pattern of strips and grooves, 15-20 cm wide. This is a lot, then you have to close and lay the cut material on the slopes with mortar.

How to finish the slopes of the front door inside the apartment

Not less than important condition is correct selection decor, which is planned to be used to decorate the surface of the jambs. First of all, the interior and decoration of the corridor or hallway are taken into account. For example, if a lot of materials imitating a wood pattern are used in the design of a room, then building the slopes of the front door from a laminate can be a good option.

Entrance door slope plastering

The design and decoration of jambs with the help of cement-lime and gypsum mortars is considered the simplest and most accessible way level the uneven end surface of the walls.

First of all, an insulating layer is laid, usually a solution with the addition of an acrylic primer. Decorative layers are made of gypsum plaster. After grouting and grinding, the plaster is painted with white or colored water-based paint.

Finishing the slopes of the entrance door MDF

Pressed cellulose web paneling will fit perfectly into the design of the slopes if the entrance doors are decorated with the same material. The MDF coating retains heat well, is not afraid of direct contact with moisture.

Before laying the panels, the surface of the walls is primed with acrylic paint, after which it is necessary to assemble the frame from wooden slats 15-20 mm thick.

Important! The thickness of the rails is selected taking into account the height of the future surface of the slopes, so that the lining does not extend beyond the edge of the doorway.

The panels themselves are stacked on the frame using steel brackets and self-tapping screws. After the assembly process is completed, a solid surface is obtained, divided by joint lines.

Finishing door slopes with laminate

This method of finishing the walls of the vestibule is somewhat different from using conventional materials, first of all, the fact that the laminate is not intended for laying on vertical surfaces.

Therefore, to finish the jambs with laminate panels, the supporting frame must be sewn on. Without crates, the lining of the vestibule will sag and block the front door.

In order to fix the laminate on the walls, use mounting foam or adhesive composition acrylic based. After laying, the laminate must be fixed mechanically. It is best to install the spacers at night while the front door is not in use. If this is not done, then the expanded mounting foam can tear off the lining from the surface of the slopes.

The use of polyurethane foam for fixing slopes will provide two very important advantages:

• High fastening strength;
• Good sound insulation and additional insulation of the vestibule.

If the entrance doors go straight to the street, then facing with a laminate on polyurethane foam will eliminate most of the problems associated with installing a door block with a metal base.

PVC panel decor

Facing slopes with PVC lining is used quite rarely, firstly, the type of plastic itself is inferior to wood, MDF and even drywall in terms of decorative qualities, and secondly, it is not recommended to install PVC at the entrance to the room for fire reasons.

Technology PVC mounting- slopes are similar to facing the walls of a bathroom or kitchen ceiling.

Finishing the slopes of the front door from the inside with a decorative stone

Popularity artificial material made of polyurethane, similar in color, texture, shape and size to crushed rubble or granite, is growing every year. This lightweight and durable plastic decor can be laid on slope walls using a metal profile or spike screws screwed into the wall surface.

Decorative stone is most often glued to primed slope walls using polystyrene dissolved in a mixture of aromatic hydrocarbons. Usually, the lower parts of the jambs and walls are sealed with a fake buta.

Finishing the slopes of the front door with decorative stone allows you to protect the most vulnerable part of the front door vestibule, it is the lower sphere that most often gets dirty and damaged by careless touch, shoes, hand luggage, umbrellas and bags.

Finishing door slopes with wallpaper

This method is used mainly for apartments or any other housing, the entrance doors of which open into the foyer, lobby or landing. Previously, the surface and corners of the jambs are plastered or leveled with a gypsum primer to make the vestibule walls as flat and even as possible.

The use of wallpaper for decorating slopes is no different from the process of pasting the walls of residential premises with tapestries. The only condition is the use of wallpaper glue with increased adhesion.

Advice! It is best to glue wallpaper on an aqueous PVA emulsion, but it will be very difficult to remove them from slopes in the future.

Once the wall is primed, dried, the second pass is pasted wallpaper. In the space in front of the entrance doors there are always drafts and areas with high humidity and temperature changes. So on the usual "Metilan" wallpaper on the slopes simply will not hold.

Tiling

The use of tile materials is the most time-consuming option for finishing work. In theory, tiles can be laid directly on a plastered surface with a good tile adhesive. In fact, the slope zone constantly experiences vibrations and shock loads when the front door is carelessly closed. One has only to slam the heavy entrance sash a couple of times, as the lining will begin to peel off.

Therefore, the tiles are laid either on elastic materials, or special inter-suture fasteners are used to ensure that the cladding is securely held on the wall.

To finish the slopes of the front door, tiles with a porous terracotta surface are most often used. Such tiles can be stunningly beautiful and at the same time able to hide all the flaws made when installing the front door.

Drywall finishing

Performing finishing work using drywall is one of the most common ways to design jambs on the front door. The process of laying the sheet itself is not particularly difficult, but the preparation and cutting of the material takes 3-4 times more time than with all other types of finishes.

Usually the walls of the front door vestibule are not plastered under drywall. This is not particularly necessary, since the decor sheets will be laid on a frame made of a galvanized mounting profile. Before fixing on the wall, each strip of the U-shaped section is leveled with the help of a building level and linings from pieces of fiberboard.

Seams and joints are sealed with masking tape, after which they are rubbed with a primer, dried and sanded. After priming and painting, the entire structure of the slopes on the front door takes the form of a single structure.

The final finish can be done with decorative plaster or pasted over with pretty cork trellises. They perfectly muffle noise, do not react to fluctuations in humidity and air temperature.

Painting door frames

Many craftsmen consider staining solely as a temporary way to close the door slopes for the duration of the repair. It is enough to paint the ends of the walls around the perimeter of the front door to get rid of dust and condensation.

In fact, when used correctly, painting can be just as effective a way to design slopes as plastering or wallpapering.

The easiest way to use paint on brick walls. To do this, the slopes and the space around the front door are thoroughly washed from the remnants of the mortar, mounting foam, dust and stains. The seams between the bricks are painted over with a contrasting black or white color, the rest of the masonry with a bright red or terracotta toner. It remains only to open with acrylic varnish to enhance the effect, and the Loft-style design is ready.

How to close the slopes after installing a metal door

Increasingly, instead of wooden and plastic door blocks, apartment owners prefer to install steel entrance doors. This is not only a concern for security, but also a way to extend the life of the entrance to the apartment. Usually metal door frame larger than wood, so the doorway has to be expanded and enlarged.

As a result, after installing the steel frame and the door leaf, the entrance opening is the ends of the walls with an uneven concrete surface and curved geometry.

Preparation for work

To put the slopes in order, first of all, it is necessary to measure the distance between the vertical surfaces of the walls and the position of the upper edge. If the concrete lintel is above steel door remained horizontal, the situation is greatly simplified. If the crossbar, after measuring the building level, turned out to be with a slope, then you will have to cut off some part of the brick or concrete with a perforator in order to bring its position as close as possible to the horizontal. Next, you will only need to plaster and level the surface above the entrance doors along the horizon.

There are fewer problems with vertical slope surfaces. If the difference between the largest and smallest distance between the sidewalls of the vestibule is more than 15 mm, then the slopes will have to be made of drywall, if the spread is smaller, then the surface of the jambs must be leveled with gypsum plaster.

Slope arrangement

The next step is to prime the surface of the slopes so that the plaster mass adheres without bubbles. On the corners, as well as on the vertical edges adjacent to the front door, stick plastic corners grid. Plastic will be used to level the plane of the plastered surface.

We apply the plaster mass in small portions and stretch it using the rule over the entire plane of the slopes. The frame and part of the front door leaf must be sealed with construction masking tape so that the primer and gypsum plaster do not get on the seal.

If the laid layer is not enough, then after three to four hours it will be necessary to plaster with a finishing layer, it can be quite thin, therefore, at the same time as leveling the material, it is necessary to check the deviation of the surface from the vertical.

After 8-10 hours, the tape is removed from the front door, and the hardened plaster is sanded with an emery mesh. Fresh slopes must be primed and applied finishing. It can be anything:

• Beautiful wallpaper to match the tapestries pasted in the corridor;
• Furniture veneer, matching the color and texture of the surface with the front door leaf;
• Liquid wallpaper;
• Decorative plaster.

The easiest way is to paint the slopes in the color of the corridor or even a tone lighter. Do not abuse dark and brown tones, from this the space turns into a dark and uncomfortable tunnel.

Sometimes the situation develops in such a way that there is simply no time to perform work in compliance with all the requirements of the technology. In this case, the jamb can be lined with drywall and polyurethane foam. It is enough just to cut the panels to size, apply a small amount of foam, install the finish in place and spread the canvas with homemade crossbars.

After a couple of hours, the excess foam that has seeped into the gap between the drywall and the edge of the front door is cut off, and the joints and sharp edges are sanded with sandpaper. The whole finish will take 2-3 hours. Of course, at the first opportunity, the slopes can be primed and painted, but even in an unfinished form, this type of decor looks very convincing.

Conclusion

Collecting slopes for front doors is no more difficult than doing decorative cladding walls in the kitchen or hallway. Master finishers claim that the amount of work that will need to be done to bring the door jambs into an acceptable form depends on the professionalism of the specialists who installed the door in the opening. In many cases, it is possible to get by with minimal priming and repainting of the old plaster.

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Finishing the doors in your home - a guide for the home master

It is no secret that by entering a house or apartment, others judge the respectability of the owners. Today I will tell you how do-it-yourself door finishing is done simply and relatively inexpensively. And not only entrance, but also interior, on which harmony in the interior of the home depends.

First, we will talk in detail about how to finish the front door from the inside, around and partially outside. And for dessert we'll have a finish interior doors, more precisely, those options that are available to an ordinary home master.

We make a worthy entrance

We live in a time when a metal front door is installed in the vast majority of houses, apartments and offices. Wood products are certainly beautiful, but compared to metal, wood clearly loses in this sector. Therefore, further we will focus on the decoration of the metal front door.

Basic tools and materials

Working with a door, no matter if it is an entrance door or an interior door, requires at least a minimum set of tools. Do not be afraid, you will not need any machines or very expensive tools:

• If we are going to equip the space around the front door, then without a good electric drill, and better than a perforator, we definitely can not do;
• Ideally, it is advisable to get a screwdriver, but if it is not there, then a set of screwdrivers will do;

• You will also need two hacksaws, for metal and for wood. Although it is better to have a jigsaw or a miter saw;
• Such obligatory things as a tape measure, a level, a square, a knife, a pencil, etc. should be in the set of every home master;
• It’s good if you bought an already insulated structure, otherwise you will also have to take a heater. As far as I have come across, PSB-S25 foam is best suited for a metal door, the thickness of the sheet is now easy to choose according to the thickness of the structure, but usually it is 40 mm;

Some small workshops lay glass wool in the door leaf, and take money as for full-fledged insulation. I categorically do not recommend you to use any kind of cotton wool, in a year it will sit down and there will be no sense from such warming. Styrofoam is the best option, not expensive and angry.

• You will also need mounting foam, silicone sealant and universal glue "Liquid nails". It is better to take this entire set in tubes for a construction pistol, of course, the pistol itself is also needed;
• Self-tapping screws for wood, metal, dowels Quick installation”, as well as metal or plastic starting profiles and other related fittings, are selected depending on the type of cladding in place.

The subtleties of arranging the door leaf with a solid sheet

Let's start with which door trim is cheaper. We do not take into account such options for finishing the entrance as painting. Everything is simple there - I bought paint, brushes and painted it. From what you can now freely buy on the market, 2 options remain:

1. waterproof ;
2. laminate.

If you do not take the elite sector, then the price of these materials is approximately the same. Difference in other:

• A sheet of waterproof plywood is faster and easier to install;
• Laminate looks much better. There are also laminated MDF door linings, but they will come out more expensive.

Remember the order of work - finishing after installing the front door. That is, the loot should be thoroughly and finally fixed, and the canvas itself should open and close freely. It is also desirable that the locks and the peephole have already been embedded.

First, let's talk about how the interior decoration of the front door with waterproof plywood is done. It makes no sense to veneer the outer side with such plywood, in this case it is easier to paint it.

In order not to return to this issue, let's first talk about insulation, because by and large the lining can be changed, and the insulation will remain the same.

The metal door is arranged extremely simply: a welded frame made of a profiled pipe or corner, on the facade of which a solid sheet of metal with a thickness of 2 mm or more is welded. As for the jambs of the front door, they are often welded from a powerful corner with a wing size of 50 mm or more.

All fittings must be removed from the finished structure. That is, a peephole, handles and pads for locks. At the same time, he mortise lock dismantling is not necessary, it will not interfere with us.

Suppose we are dealing with a frame made of a profiled pipe with a section of 40x40 mm. Then we should buy polystyrene with a thickness of 40 mm. A high-quality construction is not just a frame, there must be stiffening ribs inside, between which we will lay the insulation.

It is most convenient to glue the foam with polyurethane foam, they are perfectly “friendly” and hold everything tight. To do this, apply foam around the perimeter and in the center of the cell.

The foam must be cut a few millimeters more than the cell for which it is intended, because the sheet must enter as tightly as possible. If for some reason there are gaps, this is not a problem, but then they will also need to be filled with foam.

After the internal cavity of the structure is filled with foam and foamed where necessary, all the foam that has come out should be cut off, after which we proceed to the installation of the guide U-shaped profiles.

In this case, metal profiles will be used. These guides are attached along the perimeter of the frame from a profiled pipe to self-tapping screws for metal.

The thickness of these profiles should be 2 - 3 mm more than the thickness of the sheet of waterproof plywood you have chosen. This is due to the fact that in addition to the plywood itself, you need to leave more space for the caps of the self-tapping screws with which the profile will be attached.

But there is one subtlety here. Guides need to be fixed not around the entire perimeter, but only on three sides, on the sides and bottom. The point is to then push our plywood into these profiles, as if into a pencil case. In order to cover the upper edge of the door leaf, we simply cut out the profile and set it aside.

You are unlikely to be able to buy a sheet of waterproof plywood clearly under the door leaf, so we will cut it with an electric jigsaw along the right size from a standard sheet, it is approximately 2.5x1.5m.

I do not advise you to take ordinary FC plywood, although it is cheaper, it is afraid of moisture and may begin to peel off over time. But if for some reason you make such a decision, then first cover the sheet once with a layer of yacht varnish completely, on both sides. This will strengthen the top layer. After that, the front side will need to be varnished a couple more times.

A sheet of plywood cut to size will need to be carefully tucked into our kind of pencil case. I would not advise you to do this alone. If somewhere the sheet is skewed, then the thin profile may be damaged.

After our sheet of waterproof plywood is tucked in, you will need to take the top edge cut earlier from the U-shaped profile and simply glue it. Do not worry, she will hold on tight, because, in fact, she has nowhere to go. But, if for some reason you want to replace the lining, you can do it without much difficulty.

Waterproof plywood looks pretty decent, but if that look doesn't suit you, then you can install some kind of thin sheet with a decorative finish on top of it. Only then either the plywood needs to be taken a little thinner, or the profiles should be a little wider. Alternatively, you can use a 6 mm thick MDF sheet.

Video of finishing with waterproof plywood.

Laminate cladding

Of course, initially a laminate is a floor covering, but as it turned out, finishing the front door from the inside with a laminate looks great and is relatively inexpensive. Plus, no one bothers you with the same material to line the vestibule of the front door and slopes, but I will talk about this in a separate chapter, but for now we are trimming the door leaf itself.

Floor laminate is of different quality, the higher the class, the stronger the coating and better wear resistance. But in our case, you can take the most common laminate No. 31. It makes no sense to pay more, because this is not a floor, but in appearance they are all the same.

In order to mount laminate planks on a vertical surface, we will need a wooden crate. Such a crate is attached from the inside to the frame and stiffeners of the door leaf with self-tapping screws.

Since we initially agreed that the frame of our metal structure was welded from a 40x40 mm profiled pipe, then we also need wooden bars 30x40 mm or 20x40 mm. I do not advise you to take thinner, they can split during installation.

But first you will need to decide how the laminate will be laid, vertically or horizontally. Depending on this, load-bearing wooden blocks are installed perpendicular to the direction of laying the front planks.

In the vast majority, the laminate is decorated under a tree and the direction of the fibers is usually oriented vertically. But the planks of the floor laminate are short and you will have to connect several planks at the end when mounting vertically. I won't say it's harder, it just takes more time.

Horizontal installation is easier, here you will need to cut the strips along the width of the door and then connect them into a continuous sheet. The length of the planks of the floor laminate is usually just over a meter, and the width of a standard door leaf is 90 cm.

It is not so important from which side you will start the installation, the main thing is to leave a gap of about 2 - 3 mm between our type-setting laminated sheet and the edge of the slopes.

As you know, the laminate is connected according to the tenon / groove principle, and so the spike will need to be cut off from the starting bar. The plank itself on a wooden crate is fixed near the cut edge with small self-tapping screws in the bottom. The caps of these screws will then be covered with a decorative overlay.

The groove on the floor laminate is made with a small platform along the base, and in this platform we will fix the bar. Personally, I fix the laminate with a stapler, but if you don't have one, you can use small 20mm studs.

When the starting bar is fixed, the spike of the next bar is inserted into the groove of the previous one and is also attached to the wooden crate from the opposite side in the same way. The cladding ends with fastening along the perimeter of the L-shaped decorative profile.

If you are not satisfied with the appearance front side entrance, then a flat metal sheet is also easy to veneer with a laminate. Only in this case, the planks should not be mounted on a wooden crate, but glued over the entire area.

The typesetting sheet is glued clearly along the edges of the door. After that, a U-shaped or L-shaped plastic profile is glued to the end to match the color of the laminate. Moreover, this profile captures both the laminate itself and the metal door leaf on which it is glued.

We mount slopes and equip the vestibule

As a rule, in city apartments new metal doors mounted directly on the outer part of the opening, as a result, the owners get a small vestibule of about 30 cm between the old and new doors. Some masters call this part of the structure a portal.

I do not advise you to dismantle the old door after installing a new one. In quadrature, you will not benefit in any way, but this portal will retain cold air in winter.

Here we will continue to finish this portal of the front door. In this case, plastering will not be the most best solution. It's long and messy, plus not everyone can do the job.

Personally, I prefer to finish the vestibule of the front door with the same floor laminate. Firstly, the laminate is suitable for lining the vestibule of both narrow and wide doorways. And secondly, any novice master will be able to cope with this, in total it will take a maximum of 1 day.

Before finishing the opening, it is not necessary to remove either old or new doors from their hinges.

Work begins at the threshold. The threshold of the front door is perhaps the most important sector. Often the gap between the floor of the house and the floor of our future portal is equal to the thickness of the construction jamb, which is about 50 mm.

The floor laminate is a hardy thing, but the bottom should be solid foundation. Some plant the coating simply on mounting foam and small props. But the foam is not designed for constant mechanical impact, and over time, such thresholds sag and the coating cracks.

To avoid such trouble, you need to install a crate of several wooden planks. I usually put the bars perpendicular to the jamb every 100 - 150 mm. Sometimes the bars need to be trimmed so that they stand in the same plane, but then the laminate will definitely not sag.

It is not worth fixing the bars on the “Quick Installation” dowels, they have nowhere to go anyway. Plus, before the direct installation of the laminate, the space around the bars is filled with mounting foam, it will act as glue.

We mount the threshold and ceiling strips parallel to the jamb. The width of one plank is often not enough, so you will have to cut another plank to length.

The mounting pads along the edges of the laminate must be cut with a jigsaw, as they will interfere. When cutting the mounting platform, the jigsaw is placed at an angle so as not to hook the front surface of the bar.

If the lower gap between the canvas and the jamb of the old door allows, then the laminate strips can be brought under the canvas. In this case, it will be necessary to cut grooves on the sides for the side protrusions of the jamb.

Now you connect the planks into a single plane, blow out the gaps between the wooden bars of the crate with foam and install the laminate. So that the foam does not squeeze our threshold up during expansion, you need to put some kind of load on it. At the last stage, we fasten the aluminum threshold around the edge.

We turn to the arrangement of the overlap of the vestibule. The crate is no longer needed here, since there will be no pressure on the lining. We will glue the laminated type-setting panel onto mounting foam.

But before work, you will need to prepare props. They are made from scraps of laminitis. A double-sided adhesive tape is glued to a small strip, after which this strip is cut with an electric jigsaw into "pyataki" of 2 - 3 cm.

These nickels will play the role of temporary props. Just remove the protective layer from the adhesive tape and stick the support on the door jamb according to the markings. To hold the top panel, it is enough to support it by 3 points on each side.

First, glue 3 supports to the top beam of the outer structure. After that, we insert the upper platform into the opening, blow out the foam, press it against the base and fix the panel with the same supports on the adjacent jamb.

The crate for the side panels is also not needed. Therefore, we install mounting supports along the perimeter of the jamb, put mounting foam inside and, having attached the connected panel to the wall, fix it with mounting supports on the reverse side, 5 - 7 supports for each jamb.

In order for the foam to take better, the base should be sprinkled with water.

Often, after installing a metal structure, unpleasant cracks filled with foam remain outside along the perimeter of the jamb; naturally, they will need to be repaired.

I use any finishing putty. After dilution, all these cracks are smeared with a spatula, and the excess is wiped off with a damp cloth. Everything takes no more than 10-15 minutes.

Now we just have to seal the seams at the junctions of the planes in the vestibule. For this, a transparent silicone sealant is usually used. After filling the seam, the sealant must be leveled with a rubber spatula or just with a finger, otherwise it will be ugly.

Video of installation of slopes of entrance doors.

Arrangement of interior doors

Finishing interior doors is a creative activity and, in my opinion, not so difficult.

• Firstly, there is no need to finish the thresholds in the room, because they most often do not exist. The only exception is the threshold balcony door. But a one-piece plastic balcony block is usually installed there and there is no talk of any additional finishing at all;
• In addition, the jambs of interior doors, or rather the architraves covering them, are often quite modest in size and it takes many times less time to finish them than on the vestibule of the front door;
• And most importantly, a monolithic or paneled interior door is much lighter than the front door, which means that it is easier to work with it. Especially when you consider that we have a metal structure installed at the entrance.

As a rule, the question of how to finish interior doors is of interest to people who have started cosmetic repairs and are not going to invest in this stage serious means to completely replace all important nodes Houses. Therefore, I will focus on budget options for finishing.

Preparatory processing and staining as one of the simple options

It is better to reanimate the wooden canvases and jambs of the interior door. The fact is that there are still hollow boxes, where the frame of wooden slats is sheathed at best with plywood or MDF, and most often with fiberboard sheets in general.

It's cheaper to buy here new door than to decorate an old box with expensive materials. These items are considered disposable.

For those who are not in the know, a paneled door is a canvas with decorative square and rectangular inserts or overlays, as a rule, it is a prefabricated structure. We are interested in it from the side that decorating these islands looks much more spectacular than finishing a flat canvas.

We will start from the fact that we are dealing with a wooden canvas, the lining of which is in a deplorable state. Ideally, it is better for a novice master to remove the canvas from the hinges and lay it on some platform to make it easier to work.

Platbands are also desirable to remove. You should be left with only a bare frame of interior doors. After all, you most likely have no experience in this matter, which means that there is a high probability of damage to the wall. And it will be problematic to decorate the line of junction of platbands to the walls.

Of course, there is an option to paste over everything around with masking tape, but it does not give one hundred percent protection. They are used either by professionals who are confident in their abilities, or by housewives who are not able to disassemble the door structure, but want to do everything beautifully.

First of all, you need to remove old paint. Rubbing with emery, even large ones, will take a very long time. Therefore, for these purposes, I use a metal scraper with replaceable blades, plus I heat the surface with a hairdryer.

On the market, this tool is not expensive. And emery is useful for cleaning up problematic, curly elements.

When the paint is removed, the wood must be sanded to a perfectly even state. Because the scraper will leave furrows on the canvas.

After that, all cracks, chips and other serious defects on the tree should be repaired. Previously, a mixture of furniture varnish with small sawdust was used for such purposes, now it is easier to buy a special putty for wood, and the color of the putty can be matched to any type of wood. When the putty dries, this place is polished again.

Now apply the first layer of varnish or paint and leave to dry. After the coating dries, it will need to be lightly sanded again with fine emery. You should not be too zealous, it is enough to spend a couple of times with a sandpaper. This is necessary to remove the pile.

In principle, everything, then you can apply subsequent layers of coating. With continuous staining, it is enough to paint over the canvas 1 more time. And if you varnish your doors, then in order to achieve good result up to 5 to 7 applications may be needed. Keep in mind that each subsequent layer is applied after the previous one has dried.

Patina application

Patination is one of the ways to highlight the relief. If you play with colors, then in this way you can achieve the effect of aging. For example, we will take a pure white painted door and apply patina in fragments.

• Gray-violet acrylic paint is taken as the starting material and a little Brown. The composition must be liquid, so you need to slightly dilute it with water;

• Apply this liquid mixture we will use a regular brush, along the contour of the panels, into the recesses. In order to highlight decorative inserts and make them more contrasting;

• After the paint dries, we take fine-grained emery and carefully process the painted surface. Thus, the texture will appear and the surface will become more expressive;

• Next, we need to fix the result. For this, matte acrylic varnish in an aerosol can will be used, it is easier to work with it. Spray the varnish evenly, holding the spray can at a distance of 25 - 30 cm over the entire surface;

• The meaning of patination is that a dark background is applied to a light base and after that it appears in some way. In this case, we used emery, but there are options when cleaning is done using special washes. Although without experience, I do not advise taking on such things.

Video on applying patina.

vintage decor

Vintage is considered quite sophisticated and sophisticated style. Its beauty is that the panels can be designed in accordance with the tastes and color preferences of the owners. This will be a truly exclusive option, "sharpened" for a specific person.

• We start everything as usual: remove the canvas, cook, sand and paint. But in this case, we need a slight touch of antiquity. Therefore, after the acrylic paint dries, the surface is cleaned with large emery;
• For decor, we will need to prepare some pictures on paper in advance. Most often, old newspapers, magazines, music books, etc. are used;
• Next, the surface to be treated is covered with a layer of PVA glue and our pictures are randomly glued onto it. Pictures should lie without wrinkles. You can smooth them with a foam roller or with your hands;
• When everything is dry, the canvas will need to be coated a couple of times with clear acrylic or furniture varnish.

As you probably already understood, the whole “trick” is that you can pick up any pictures:

• Newspapers will go under romantic antiquity;
• For a catchy, flashy design, you can use bright flowers;
• In the nursery, decorate the doors in a cartoon style. Moreover, it is not necessary to paste over the entire canvas, you can decorate, only islands of panels.

Conclusion

I am sure that after reading the article you yourself will be able to ennoble your door structures. The main thing is to set a goal and there will be a solution. The photo and video in this article contains materials on the topic of door finishing.