Concrete mixing machine, or concrete mixer, or concrete block - building device intended for self cooking quality building mix. Such a machine can be stationary and mobile, differing in purpose and principle of operation. Today, a do-it-yourself concrete mixer is a good option for a practical and convenient unit. Its production will require minimal financial costs.
Types of concrete mixers and the principle of their work
A concrete mixer is a technical device widely used in conditions modern construction for the preparation of concrete or other cement-based mortar, and presented in very different types or forms. Regardless of the typical characteristics and design features, the main function of a concrete mixing machine or mixer is to obtain maximum efficiency in the process of mixing all the components.
Continuous concrete mixers
concrete mixers continuous action have a forced mixing process of all components. From a constructive point of view, these units are the same, and the main differences are in the size, performance and shape of the mixing blades.
The principle of operation of a continuous concrete mixer is the forced process of mixing the components of the solution
Continuous concrete mixing machines carry out a complete set of all technological processes, represented by loading and mixing individual components, as well as unloading the finished mixture from the unit, which is provided not only by production, but also by control equipment.
The diagram shows the device of a continuous unit
- 8 - a continuous flow of the components of the mixture is fed into the trough;
- 7 - blades mounted on shafts inside the trough at an angle of 40–45 °;
- 6 - shafts inside the trough;
- 5 - unloading gate;
- 4 - gear pair;
- 3 - reducer;
- 2 - belt drive.
The principle of operation of the mixer is based on the loading of a continuous flow of components by belt feeders or conveyors. Simultaneous supply of bulk components and water makes it possible to obtain a homogeneous and high-quality solution in the mixing tank, which is discharged through the discharge opening and can be loaded directly into a special vehicle.
The technical performance indicators of continuous mixers depend on the volume of solution that moves in a certain time in the direction of the axis, as well as on the size and angle of the blade part with their rotational speed. The advantages of this version of the concrete mixer are represented by the ability to prepare mortars and hard concretes in significant quantities, as well as the complete static nature of the body. The disadvantages include the need for a constant supply of components, and the inability to obtain a small volume of solution.
Cyclic action
Installations of cyclic action are distinguished by the loading of new components of the mixture only after the complete unloading of the already prepared solution. This version of mixing equipment is more mobile, and the performance level is determined by the quality of the loaded components and the total volume of the mixing tank.
Cyclic concrete mixers are more mobile
The main function of the cyclic device is to obtain high-quality concrete of mobile, molding and rigid type with the presence of special additives. Units of this type can have a cylindrical or trough-shaped body with a vertical or horizontal shaft.
Mixing of the solution occurs with the help of paddle shafts
- 1 - bearing;
- 2 - electric motor;
- 3 - frame structure;
- 4 - V-belt transmission;
- 5 - reducer;
- 6 - clutch;
- 7 - unit body;
- 8 - blade part;
- 9 - holder;
- 10 - opening for loading;
- 11 - shaft;
- 12 - pneumatic cylinder;
- 13 - shutter;
- 14 - unloading opening of the unit.
The principle of operation is ensured by the rotation of the blades on the shafts in the mutual direction, which causes the inclusion of an electric motor and V-belt transmission. Due to the extremely uniform arrangement of the blades on the shafts, such elements fit perfectly into the free spaces. Mixed components are delivered inside the working mixer through a lock-type opening, after which mixing takes place with the help of paddle shafts and the finished mixture is unloaded through an unloading opening controlled by a pneumatic cylinder.
Benefits most modern models consist in a high quality of mixing in a relatively short time period and in the possibility of using components with different densities, resulting in a high-quality finished composition. The main disadvantages of cyclic equipment are represented by the high cost and technical complexity of the transmission, which implies the provision of regular and competent Maintenance unit.
Gravitational
A variant of a construction machine characterized by agitation concrete mixtures due to gravity. Gravity mixers are a drum that rotates around an axis of a horizontal or inclined type. A prerequisite for functioning is a strictly defined number of blade rotations, which prevents an excess of centrifugal force inside the drum.
The advantages of this type of concrete mixer are ease of installation and performance.
Gravity construction mixers, as a rule, are designed for the preparation of mixtures, the volume of which does not exceed one cubic meter. A modern mobile type plant is very easy to transport. The most popular and common gravity models are concrete mixing plants in the form of traditional concrete mixer trucks.
The rotational speed in this type of concrete mixer is 20 rpm.
- 1 - loading bucket;
- 2 - a pair of lifting drums;
- 3 - self-braking worm-type gearbox;
- 4 - flange electric motor;
- 5 - mixing drum with blades;
- 6 - steering wheel of the unit;
- 7 - output shaft of a three-stage cylindro-conical type gearbox;
- 8 - the ends of the rope, which covers the bucket;
- 9 and 10 - limit switches for turning off the electric motor;
- 11 - traverse;
- 12 - flange electric motor;
- 13 - single-stage gearbox;
- 14 - fixing device.
Principle of operation: bladed elements inside the drum during their uniform rotation pick up, lift and drop down the prepared solution. The standard speed in gravity concrete mixing technology is limited to 20 rpm.
The undoubted advantages of any gravity mixer are represented by the optimal ratio of the weight of the installation and the total working volume of the tank, the simplicity and reliability of the design, the possibility of using large aggregates, as well as the very low energy load of such equipment. Serious disadvantages of such models include low rates of versatility and the risk of not obtaining homogeneous rigid mixtures.
Forced
Forced-action concrete mixing units are used in the production of not only mobile, but also rigid molding-type concrete, and also allow the production of lightweight concrete with a significant amount of various additives. Forced mixers can be equipped with a horizontal or vertical shaft, which is placed in a trough-shaped or cylindrical body.
In such a concrete mixer, you can prepare solutions with different densities
In forced mixers, high-quality mixing of all components is ensured, and due to the versatility of the design, the production of concretes, as well as solutions with different density and mobility levels, is greatly facilitated.
All components are loaded inside the concrete mixer drum, thanks to the blades they are mixed, and a high-quality solution is obtained
- 1 - mixer body;
- 2 - frame structure;
- 3 - electric motor;
- 4 - unit control panel;
- 5 - sector type shutter;
- 6 - drive handle for opening the shutter;
- 7 - protective element;
- 8 - drive gear for shafts;
- 9 - belt drive protection;
- 10 - safety clutch;
- 11 - mixing shaft.
The principle of operation is based on the loading of all components inside the drum and the ability of the blades to mix the components during rotation to obtain a homogeneous and high-quality mass of the finished solution.
The advantages of forced construction mixers are represented by high mixing quality, equipment reliability and its ability to function even in difficult conditions, as well as small dimensions and ease of transportation. The disadvantages include the lack of a maximum ratio of the weight of the equipment to the usable volume of the mixer, as well as the too high installed power of the electric drive.
How to make a concrete mixer with your own hands
Of course, mixing can be done in a trough using a conventional shovel, but this approach is very labor-intensive, not allowing to obtain a sufficient amount of a homogeneous and high-quality mixture, and the consumption of components in this case increases significantly.
Independent production of a concrete mixer does not cause difficulties even in the absence of professional knowledge and special skills in this area. It is enough to familiarize yourself with the manufacturing scheme, prepare necessary material and a set of tools, as well as strictly adhere to the step-by-step instructions.
From a barrel
The design has a peculiar trajectory of movement, in the form of an axis of rotation, going through the tank strictly obliquely. Simple mortar mixers are able to function well with temperature regime not lower than plus 2 o C, since the design does not provide heating of the prepared mixture.
The design of such a concrete mixer is quite simple.
- 1 - metal barrel;
- 2 - base from a metal corner;
- 3 - a shaft from a pipe;
- 4 - bearing system;
- 5, 6 - handle and handle;
- 7 - hatch cover;
- 8 - lock connection;
- 9 - rubber seal;
- 10 - loop.
The prepared solution moves between two walls, which ensures the simplicity and efficiency of regular operation. A barrel mixer is capable of mixing about three buckets very well in twenty revolutions. concrete mortar.
Materials and tools:
- metal barrel;
- a set of hardware, represented by bolts, nuts and washers;
- bearings;
- fittings for the handle;
- standard metal corner;
- welding machine;
- electric drill;
- "Bulgarian" or a hacksaw for working with metal;
- spanners;
- level, tape measure and marker.
- Drill holes on the ends of the barrel for the installation of the shaft.
- Install bearings under the rotary handle on the outer part of the covers.
- Cut a hole for unimpeded extraction of the finished solution.
- Seal the door with rubber.
- Fix the door with hinged hinges on the hinged latches.
- Weld the supporting frame structure from metal corners.
- Equip the shaft with blades made of steel sheet.
- Install shaft and knobs.
- Place the barrel on a supporting metal structure.
If desired, the design can be supplemented by an electric motor, a gearbox to reduce torque, a V-belt and a moisture-proof switch, as well as a wire system. In operation, this model of a concrete mixer is less stable, therefore, it is necessary to ensure high-quality additional fixation.
From the washing machine
Construction mixer made on the basis of washing machine, has a fairly high performance. In the process of drum rotation, stable stability is necessary, but the presence of a certain dissonance is explained by the components of the solution, which constantly shift the center of gravity. For this reason, it is necessary to resolve the issue of a reliable base or frame for installing a concrete mixer made using a washing machine.
The most sustainable geometric figure- a triangle that can withstand significant loads and retains its position well. The advantages of a concrete mixer, self-assembled on the basis of a washing machine, are represented by individual height selection, but the best option is a design with a lower tank location at a level of 50–80 cm. cement mortar directly depends on the size of the tank of the washing machine.
To ensure stability, you need to make a reliable base for the concrete mixer
Materials and tools:
- welding machine;
- electric drill;
- standard set of screwdrivers;
- hacksaw for working with metal;
- capacity from the washing machine;
- metal corners or a pipe for the manufacture of a frame frame;
- steel sheet for the manufacture of blades.
If you want to make your own auger concrete mixer, you need to make a special shaft.
Step by step manufacturing process:
- Seal the drain hole in the working activator type washing machine.
- Craft rotary mechanism from metal corners or pipes.
- Place the washing machine on the swivel tipping mechanism.
- Install the frame on "legs" half a meter high to ensure maximum stability of the structure.
It is important not to carry out a rigid fastening of the tank along the perimeter of the frame, and installation on a canopy should allow tipping with emphasis on the frame base. Such a design is fixed on the basis of an activator-type washing machine with only four metal corners. The performance of the finished construction mixer is ensured by connecting the unit to a 220 V network.
From a flask
Traditional flasks made from milk or paint can be an excellent base used in the manufacture of a compact concrete mixer. Technological capabilities allow the frame to be made on the basis of metal corners or pipes, as well as ordinary wooden bars. As a rule, three buckets of concrete mortar can be made at the same time inside such a mixer.
Compact concrete mixer that allows you to prepare three buckets of mortar in one go
The flask must be placed in an inclined position, using for this purpose four conventional rotating supports or a frame structure with an angle of 20–30 ° relative to the horizon. Thus, the device is provided with the rotation of the unit in accordance with the longitudinal axis.
Photo gallery: components of a homemade flask-based concrete mixer
The flask will be a good reservoir for mixing 
Engine elements 
Variant with manual drive 
Working principle of concrete mixer 
Composite mechanism for homemade concrete mixer
A homemade manual concrete mixer can be made within a couple of hours using a milk flask and almost any scrap metal for this purpose.
Materials and tools:
- welding machine;
- electric drill;
- screwdrivers;
- hacksaw for working with metals;
- metal flask;
- metal corners for the manufacture of a frame frame.
Step by step manufacturing process:
- Drill holes for the handle.
- Pass the axle equipped with a handle through the holes drilled in the flask.
- Fabricate a supporting metal frame structure.
- Install the unit on the frame.
Easy operation of the construction mixer is ensured by the obligatory balance of such a unit, therefore the axis is passed only through the center of gravity. Ordinary water couplings can serve as bushings for the axle, and the stops are made by welding nuts lubricated with lithol or grease to the axial part. This option is very simple to use, but a large amount of the solution is not mixed well enough and quickly.
Variants of concrete mixers for self-production (with drawings)
There are several easy-to-do-it-yourself options for construction mixers that have proven to be highly effective in preparing concrete solutions of various volumes.
Mechanical option
The main advantage is a fairly large volume, and both electric and manual drives can be used for equipment. The unloading of the finished composition is carried out by the traditional tilt of the structure to the side.
The main disadvantage of such a cylindrical tub is the insufficiently high-quality mixing of the solution in the corner zones and the risk of splashing the mixture if the design is too fast. The model is able to knead a simple mixture within five minutes, and mixing dry ingredients takes no more than ten minutes.
Combined horizontal version with combs
Electric or manual construction based on a cylindrical tank with high uniformity and excellent mixing speed. The device also has a high speed and quality of the solution manufacturing procedure. To mix one batch of solution, it is enough to perform only four turns of the handle.
concrete mixers combined type have good mixing speed
The disadvantage is the structural complexity and the large number of constituent parts, and the installation of an unloading hatch with high-quality and very reliable seals, latches and hinges requires increased attention.
Combs are made from ordinary metal corners
For the manufacture of the comb, metal corners should be used, which are securely fixed on the base.
For reliability and stability under the concrete mixer, it is recommended to make a base
For welding side racks, struts, channels are used, cut into individual elements, as well as durable metal corners.
Electric option
The most common and popular design of a construction mixer, most often done by hand. To date, a huge number of variations of such a unit are known, which may have some differences in terms of design and specifications.
Such construction mixer way to ensure a considerable yield of the finished solution
The best option it is considered to be the use of a cylindrical tank, in which the bottom part and the neck must necessarily be strengthened with cross-welded strips. For such a frame electric concrete mixing structure, securely welded on the axis, it is characteristic high performance and a sufficient yield of the finished solution.
Some difficulty can be caused by the assembly of the container rotated together with the axial element, which is due to the need to make a high-strength frame structure. However, thanks to this technical features, the electric concrete mixer can be used for the longest time possible.
vibration option
If you have a hammer drill with a power rating of 1.0–1.3 kW and a percussion forced mechanism, it is quite possible to make a home-made vibratory concrete mixer.
In this design, it must be taken into account that the distance to the bottom part must correspond to the radius of the unit
In the manufacture of such a design, it must be remembered that the tank used must be round and high, not very wide, located on the axis. The standard distance to the bottom must correspond to the radius of the machine. It is strictly forbidden to use any flat containers made of sheet metal. In such a tank, there is no wave excitation necessary for mixing the solution. The best option is to use a pair of metal plates stacked together, and the diameter of the vibrator should be a quarter of a meter for every 1.3 kW of power.
Modern barrel variant
An interesting design from a technical point of view, which can be easily carried out in accordance with the step-by-step illustrations below. It is necessary to prepare a two-hundred-liter barrel, an electric motor for 250 W and 1430 revolutions, as well as a wheel from a conventional motorcycle, two belts and a couple of rings welded to each other. The pulley is securely welded to the bottom of the tank. The frame structure is made on the basis of a channel and a durable metal pipe.
Photo gallery: making a concrete mixer from an ordinary barrel
For the manufacture of a concrete mixer, an ordinary barrel is suitable 
Drive mechanism part 
Fastening metal sheets to the frame 
Preparation of the base for a concrete mixer 
Installing the concrete mixer on the base 
Concrete mixer ready to go 
The construction unit can be equipped with an engine 
Engine drive belt 
Reservoir with blades for mixing the components of the solution 
Concrete mixer at work
Video: homemade concrete mixer at work
Video: making a concrete mixing unit from a barrel
Thus, the standard ready-made design of a self-made construction mixer is represented by a stationary or mobile bed, mixing working elements, a tank for a direct mixing process and an unloading mechanism. Also important parts of the design include transmission and gasoline or electric propulsion unit.
It is not difficult to make an efficient concrete mixing unit on your own, but it should be remembered that the distance from the gears to the pulleys must be correctly verified as much as possible even before execution. installation work. The impossibility of connecting a grounding contract to a concrete mixer is leveled by the electrification of the device using a standard RCD, and all moving internal parts must be equipped with protective covers. The starting start of the concrete mixing machine is carried out in idle mode, but the preparation of the first concrete solution should not be the full load of the device.
An individual household in the private sector is always permanent - new tasks and problems constantly arise that require not only ingenuity, but also the use of mechanization. Such means include a concrete mixer, which a zealous owner will try not to purchase, but to make on his own. Not all home craftsmen know how to make a concrete mixer with their own hands, and innovative solutions to this problem give rise to many original and unusual decisions. Most often, homemade concrete mixers use the principle of forced mechanical mixing. This means that the solution in the tank is mixed both by the gravitational method (transferring during rotation) and by the blades fixed in the tank.
All independently designed concrete mixers can be classified and divided into mechanical, electrical and autonomous units. Also, the separation of structures is carried out both by the type of drive and by the type of unloading of the solution. The simplest drawing of a concrete mixer includes a mortar tank, a frame on which it is attached, and a container rotation mechanism.
Any do-it-yourself home-made concrete mixer has a gearbox as part of the design. It can be implemented in any way - belt drive, gear or chain system, transmission without belts (contact drive): the main condition for the gearbox is to ensure slow rotation of the tank, about 25-40 rpm. The drum of the device can be driven by hands, an electric motor or a gasoline (diesel) engine. Also, concrete mixers can be stationary or mobile - it depends on the inventor's imagination and construction needs.
The unloading of the solution is organized in different ways. It can be a tank without a lid with concrete unloading over the edge of the bucket by simply tilting the concrete mixer if the axis of rotation is in vertical plane. Also, the container can be fixed horizontally, and then the concrete is unloaded through the cut upper edge of the barrel (bucket). To do this, the tub must also simply be tilted, which is ensured by the design of the unit.
With a vertically located tank, there is no need for a hatch - the solution is unloaded by tipping into a substituted container. The advantage of the design without a hatch is that it is not necessary to seal the cover, which means that there is no need to complicate the device. A vertical tank can be loaded at 60-70%, while an inclined or horizontal tank can be loaded at 30-50% so that the liquid solution does not splash.
It makes no sense to make any home-made concrete mixer more than 1 cubic meter - the weight of concrete with a solution volume of 1 m 3 will be about 1.6 tons, which will greatly complicate both mixing and unloading the solution. The most common design is a concrete mixer from a washing machine or from a metal 200- liter barrel for fuel.
Next design feature home-made concrete mixer - the design of the mixing unit. It can be different: the blades are welded to the bottom of the tank if the drum rotates vertically; the blades are attached to the walls of the rotating container, and the container can rotate both in the vertical and in the horizontal plane; the blades rotate horizontally or vertically in a fixed tank. To choose a suitable design, you should carefully study the drawings of different concrete mixers, compare them with your capabilities and the availability of parts.
manual concrete mixer
The mechanical manual rotation drive of the concrete mixer, made from improvised parts and assemblies, is the simplest design solution, and it is based on the principle of rotation - the tank rotates with a curved handle, like on any well. Such a home-made concrete mixer requires considerable effort, so the container is made of a small volume, which reduces the performance of the unit. The advantage of the design is the simplicity and economy of manufacture, autonomy and possible mobility. Disadvantages - small volume of the tank and manual labor.
electric concrete mixer
An electrically driven concrete mixer is more widely used among home craftsmen, as it greatly facilitates manual labor - it is enough to load the mortar components into a container in the correct proportion, and the electric drive will mix the mixture in a matter of minutes. The unloading of concrete in a concrete mixer in any design usually occurs by dumping the mixture into a trough, the remains are cleaned with a shovel. Unloading is not automated due to the small volume of concrete mortar being prepared.
For the improvement of the site, either mortar or concrete is often needed. Kneading it by hand is hard and long, and the quality of the solution is far from the best: it is difficult to achieve uniformity. Not everyone wants to buy a concrete mixer for its periodic use. A good way out is a do-it-yourself concrete mixer. You need a little money, in terms of performance, home-made units are no worse than Chinese ones, and sometimes even better.
manual concrete mixer
There is not always electricity at the construction site, and large volumes of mortar and concrete are also not always required. The way out is to make a small volume concrete mixer that will rotate manually (with a manual drive). The designs of these models are simple and uncomplicated.
From a milk flask
The simplest manual concrete mixer can be made with an ordinary metal flask (previously milk was sold in such). You will also need pipe trimmings or some other scrap metal. The design is simple, such a do-it-yourself concrete mixer is implemented in a couple of hours. The main thing is to weld the frame. The assembly of the concrete mixer itself will take a couple of tens of minutes on the strength.
Make a frame from round pipe bend the handle. In the upper part of the frame, weld two water couplings (for example). Their inner diameter is slightly larger diameter pipe used for the handle. The pipe is passed through the flask, welded to the body.
To make the barrel spin easily, you need to find the center of gravity. To do this, you can put it on some thin object, and moving it forward / backward, find this very center. This is where you need to pass the pen through it. Having skipped the handle, it is attached to the walls of the case. This is where difficulties can arise: flasks are usually made from aluminum alloy, and the handle can be made of steel. It will not be possible to connect from by welding. The only available way out is cold welding. He is quite real. Other modes - with bimetallic gaskets or argon-arc welding at home are not implemented. Another way out is to weld plates on the handle, which are riveted to the sides of the flask.
So that the handle does not play much and does not fall out during operation, nuts are welded to it on both sides of the coupling.
In general, this is all manufacturing manual concrete mixer with your own hands. For one batch in a 40 liter can, you can get 2.5-3 buckets of solution. More than enough for use in the country or on the site near the house (without construction).
If there is no can, you can adapt a barrel (thick-walled). Then the problem with welding the handle disappears, but you will have to come up with a system for fixing the lid. You can do something similar to the one that the can has.
In the video - an example of a manual home-made concrete mixer from a milk flask. The design is slightly different, but not too different. Eat interesting idea- dividers are welded to the pipe inside the tank, which accelerate mixing.
From the barrel (manual and electric)
The author called this design a “drunken barrel” because of the peculiar trajectory of movement. The whole point is that the axis of rotation goes obliquely through the container. Because of this, the solution rolls over from one wall to another. The design is also simple and effective. What is important - there are no problems with welding dissimilar metals. A drawing of a manual concrete mixer from a barrel is shown below.
In the upper part of the frame, bearings are installed in the center, into which the handle is threaded. Thanks to them, a 200 liter barrel is spinning easily. Just choose a container with thick walls - it will last longer. Inside, no additional blades are welded: they only delay the components, interfering with mixing and complicating unloading.
IN original design the hatch of loading/unloading is in the bottom. This is a cut-off part (approximately 1/3), attached with loops to the bottom, equipped with sealing rubber around the perimeter and closed with two locks. When loading the barrel, turn it so that the hatch is at the top. When unloading - turn down. The solution moves by gravity into the substituted container, and the stuck one can be removed by tapping on the body with a hammer or sledgehammer.
This design served the author for 10 years, although it was made for one-time work, but it turned out to be very successful: 2.5 buckets of solution mix well in 20-30 revolutions. During this time, it was repeated and improved by neighbors and acquaintances. Basically, the alterations concerned the hatch. Experimentally, its most successful design was revealed - similar to the one used in the milk flask. Such a "neck" is welded to the body of the barrel on one side (see the photo above). They also make handles on both sides - for the possibility of working together.
This design easily turns into an electric homemade concrete mixer. Doesn't fit very well powerful engine- 1 kW for a barrel of 200 liters is enough, to the axis of which a small sprocket is attached, a larger sprocket is welded to the axis-pipe (to reduce the number of revolutions), they are connected using a chain (from a scooter, for example).
Do-it-yourself electric concrete mixer from a barrel and a washing machine engine
This concrete mixer is gear type. To make this model you need:
- barrel made of galvanized steel for 180 liters (diameter 560 mm, height - 720 mm);
- washing machine motor - 180 W, 1450 rpm;
- flywheel and starter gear from Moskvich 412;
- two pulleys from a washing machine with a diameter of 300 mm and 60 mm;
- wheels from a garden cart;
- frame scrap.
Gears, wheels - everything is old, everything was in the garage
First of all, we clean everything from rust, process it with a rust converter and cover it with primer.
We cook a frame from pipes, a channel. We strengthen the corners of the frame by welding metal plates. Everything must be tough and reliable. We make a serious crossbar: a barrel with a solution will “hang” on it, and everything will vibrate and spin.
The frame is the basis of the structure. Pipes are almost new.
We weld the pins seat under the gears. We clean from rust, process with a rust converter, primer.
We fix the wheels from the cart. They have justified themselves with wide treads: it is not difficult to drag a concrete mixer even just around the site.
From the pipes we cook more structures for the stop and installation of the entire “filling”.
The second is for greater stability
We begin to assemble the drive. First we put a large gear on the previously welded pin.
We install an assembly in the seat - a small gear connected to a wheel for a belt drive.
We attach the engine to the plate welded in advance.
We hang it so that the two belt drive wheels are at the same level. It is also necessary to ensure the normal tension of the belt.
It remains to attach the barrel. In it in the center we make a hole for a large pulley, we drill a hole for fasteners. We put it in place.
Only the electrical part remains. The cable is connected via
A few photos of the main nodes. Maybe someone needs to take a closer look.
The second transmission option is from a car disk
The 200-liter barrel, its edges were cut, bent and welded, forming the usual "pear".
They made a “pear” from a barrel
The car disk was bolted to the bottom (with rubber gaskets). It was selected so that a recess for the belt drive was formed. A hub was pre-attached to the disk.
Blades were welded inside the barrel for more efficient mixing of the solution.
All this economy was attached to the frame.
Where the plate is welded is a place for the engine. We expose it so that the belt runs smoothly. Power was supplied through the toggle switch, the timer was switched on sequentially from the washing machine, from which the motor was removed.
In general, the rotation speed turned out to be 35-40 rpm. Should be enough.
Homemade mixers in the video version
If you understand the general principle of how a concrete mixer is made with your own hands, you can upgrade and redo it, adjusting it to the available parts. Help in this video, collected in this section.
crown type
Another option, only no longer geared, but of the crown type. The crown, by the way, can be bought (cast iron or plastic) and installed on the barrel.
With rollers as a support
When large-scale construction work is planned, not the last question to be decided is where to get a mortar mixer - if you mix the mortar manually, then the lost time does not compensate for the savings from not buying a concrete mixer. Some skill in welding and locksmithing and instructions on how to make a concrete mixer with your own hands will help reduce costs.
Basic principles of operation of mortar mixers
According to the principle of operation, a do-it-yourself concrete mixer is no different from industrial analogues - the differences will be only in the materials used and sizes. In addition, it will be easier to repair a concrete mixer with your own hands, since you know the mechanism you have made yourself inside and out.
Based on the scope of the planned work and the available components, finished device can mix concrete in a concrete mixer by force, gravitational or combined. The latter is used most often due to the ease of manufacture of the device and the high quality of its work.
Forced mixing of the solution
According to this principle, a construction mixer or a drill with a special nozzle operates - a whisk is lowered into the solution and, rotating, mixes its components. But such tools are more suitable for gypsum plasters- sand and cement, especially with the addition of crushed stone, have a much greater weight, so at best you simply won’t get a high-quality mixture, and at worst - when making a mortar, you can burn the drill motor or its gearbox yourself.
For the preparation of concrete, a slightly modified design is used - a shaft passes through the center of the tank, on which blades are mounted, mixing the components of the mixture. Also good results show frame mixers that break up clods of mortar, turning it into a homogeneous mixture. Some builders are convinced that only such an arbolite mixer can prepare an arbolite solution with high quality.
Advantages and disadvantages
This method shows excellent results in production, but before using it at home, you should weigh the pros and cons of the design.
There is only one advantage - such a concrete mixer will produce the most homogeneous solution in the shortest time.
The disadvantages of such a device are much more:
- The complexity of the design. It is necessary to ensure the tightness of the place where the shaft passes through the mixing container. This determines how often the bearing needs to be replaced, which is usually installed in this place. It is also necessary to reduce the "dead zones" that are located near the walls of the tank - the blades or frame must rotate freely, but at the same time pass close enough to the surface so as not to leave unmixed parts of the solution there.
- Need quality parts. The concrete solution is quite heavy in itself, and the addition of crushed stone or other inclusions to it requires additional capacities from the concrete mixer. As a result, in order to get a good concrete mixer, you need to remember or master the basics of strength of materials.
- The design is not designed for the preparation of a solution that includes medium and large fractions of crushed stone or expanded clay - they will simply get stuck between the blades and walls.
- Large power consumption. Again, everything is tied to the density and weight of the concrete in which the blades will rotate. For the same reason, a homemade forced-action concrete mixer must necessarily be with an engine - if you try to rotate the shaft manually, you can use shovels with the same success.
If the quality of the mortar and the speed of its mixing are more important, then a forced concrete mixer with your own hands can be made according to the following schemes.
Details and device
The design consists of the following components:
- Carrying frame. Its execution is individual in each case.
- Drum for a batch, with smooth internal walls.
- working shaft. Frames or blades are attached to it, mixing the solution.
- Electric motor.
- Reduction gear.
- Coupling. Transfers force from the gearbox to the shaft. It can act as a fuse in case of jamming.
- Luke for rashing the finished solution.
- Lever for opening the hatch (or turning the drum).
Do-it-yourself forced-action concrete mixers require special attention to the way in which the prepared mortar will be unloaded. This is a hatch in the bottom of the mixing container or a device for completely turning it over so that the finished mixture is poured out through the loading compartment. Which of the methods is more suitable, it is advisable to decide in advance.
Visually forced concrete mixer in the video:
Gravity mixing
When using this method, the container itself is spinning into which the components of the solution are poured. Mixing occurs due to the constant pouring of sand and cement from top to bottom. The most difficult thing in this design is to ensure that the lid closes tightly so that water does not seep through it.
The most important advantage of the design is its simplicity. Such a do-it-yourself mortar mixer can be made from an ordinary can, even an unnecessary and leaky one will do. Do not drink water from it, so the hole can be closed by any means, and the neck rarely deteriorates and still provides the necessary tightness.
Such devices can also be used during construction in places where there is no electricity - such a home-made concrete mixer made by oneself does not have to be equipped with an electric drive, although its presence will greatly simplify the work.
Working on the same principle, but more common is a homemade concrete mixer from a barrel. It is easier for her to find a container, it is more capacious and mixing the solution allows you to perform more thoroughly. As practice has shown, the solution is better mixed in a barrel fixed in opposite corners.
Details and device
The following components are used:
- Iron barrel of suitable size. Some craftsmen adapt plastic containers for these purposes.
- Frame. There are no restrictions - full scope for imagination. The main thing is that it is convenient to pour out your finished solution.
- A shaft that supports a container that can support the weight of a barrel of cement.
- Bearings.
- Pen. The longer it is, the easier it is to rotate the shaft.
- Handle.
- Cover for draining the finished solution.
- Clips that hold the lid to the neck.
- Seals.
- Hinges for opening the lid.
How a do-it-yourself concrete mixer from a barrel works is clearly shown in the following video:
Combined concrete mixers
The most common devices - the solution is mixed due to gravitational influence, plus breaking up lumps with blades or pins welded to the body of the barrel. Suitable for making arbolite with your own hands. They require more time to prepare the solution than forced mixers, but have an extensive list of advantages:
- The design is as simple as possible, reliable and unpretentious in operation.
- Less force is generated on the shaft that rotates the barrel, which allows the use of not as powerful electric motors as for forced mixing. As a result - significantly less wear on components.
- It is not required to seal any joints - the solution is mixed inside the barrel, and all the nodes of the mechanism are outside.
- It is possible to mix solutions with any size fractions of crushed stone, expanded clay and other fillers.
The simplest combined manual concrete mixer made by hand from iron barrel- this is the same manual concrete mixer, but with blades or combs welded from the inside. If necessary, an electric motor can be connected to it.
Self-manufacturing
A factory-made or do-it-yourself concrete mixer consists of three main components: a bucket in which the mortar is mixed, a frame for attaching the components and a drive - manual or electric (in some cases motors from a moped or scooter are used).
In the video, a home-made tub for combined mixing of the solution is installed on a T-16 tractor:
Solution bucket
First, you need to consider its size, given that it will be loaded by 30-40%. No more, as the solution will splash out and mix poorly.
Secondly, attention should be paid to the shape - it should be pear-shaped. From above, so that water and mortar do not splash out, from below - so that concrete particles do not clog into the corners between the wall and the bottom.
This tub is almost ready plastic barrel the right sizes- besides the fact that it fits the shape, an additional plus will be her weight.
Alternatively, a concrete mixer can be made from a washing machine - if an old Soviet round “washer” is lying around in the attic, then a laundry tank is removed from it, which is specially designed to have liquid spinning inside it. The bottom is strengthened, the top is narrowed and the tank is ready.
If there is nothing suitable, then a pear for a concrete mixer can be made from a steel sheet with a cross section of 2-3 mm. For the bottom, you should take a thicker metal - about 5 mm - the main load from the drive will go to it.
With a diameter of 500 mm and a height of 400, a compact bucket is obtained, in which, however, 30 liters of solution can be prepared at a time.
The following drawings will tell you more about the design:
It is possible to make a quality pear for a concrete mixer without using the blades. In the diagram shown, instead of them, mortar dividers from 16 mm reinforcing bar are welded inside the tank, which additionally strengthen the structure. This design is an excellent mixer for wood concrete.
Attachment to the shaft occurs through the hub from car wheel, which is welded or screwed to the bottom. If there are no auto parts lying around in the garage, then the fasteners will have to be made manually according to the drawing.
Carrier frame
There can be a variety of variations in its design - there is complete freedom of action, the main rule of its manufacture is that it securely holds all the components and gives free access for loading and unloading concrete.
The main differences in engineering are in the method of pouring the finished solution, for which the tub itself is made movable, or the entire frame is designed in a certain way.
For a bucket made of steel sheet, a frame that provides it with an inclination will be optimal. The container itself is connected to the gearbox drive (15), to which the force comes from the engine (17) through the clutch (16).
All this is mounted on a subframe (18) and rotates on a hinge (14). For different types solutions, the working slope of the bucket can be adjusted, for which an eyelet (22) is welded to the subframe, through which a sector (10) passes, held in the desired position by a pin (23).
The main provisions of the sector need at least three:
Slope 50% - for heavy solutions.
Slope 30% - for light mixtures (for example, plaster).
Horizontal position for rinsing the container.
Electric motor and gearbox
Rarely, these parts are bought separately - the easiest way is to use what is at hand. The electric motor is suitable from the washing machine, circuit diagram from there, and the gearboxes are assembled from bicycle wheels, belt or chain drives. The closest thing to the factory design is a flywheel welded to the bottom, which spins from the “native” Benedix of an automobile starter mounted on a shaft.
All calculations are made based on the following considerations:
- Engine power is selected according to the ratio of 20 watts per liter of solution.
- The number of revolutions that the gearbox produces for the tub should be in the range of 30-50 per minute. A smaller amount will increase mixing time, and a larger amount will splatter the solution or even cause centrifugal forces, due to which mixing will not occur.
Briefly about the main
A self-assembled manual concrete mixer is a completely solvable task for a person who knows how to properly work with a welding machine and has the skills of plumbing.
If a do-it-yourself mixer is made from a barrel, then you can pick up a plastic container that is already completely ready for installation.
When assembling, you need to remember about the engine power, the optimal number of revolutions and the careful centering of the mechanism.
This article is suitable for any amateur builder who, in his free time from his main job, is trying to equip life on suburban area. Construction is indispensable without concrete. Even if you make a house out of wooden beams, reinforced concrete foundation or piles you will definitely need. And having kneaded a concrete solution a couple of times with your hands in a bucket or trough using a drill or a shovel, an inquisitive mind begins to look for less labor-intensive ways.
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There are several options. You can order home delivery and the next day the truck mixer will bring required amount cubic meters. Perhaps this option is not entirely economical. More hardworking owners can buy a concrete mixer, it is compact and equipped with an electric motor for mixing the solution. Throw cement, sand, water and gravel into it in the right proportions, and only manage to release the concrete mixer by pouring the solution out of it. It is cheaper, but you still have to buy such a concrete mixer.
But there is another option: to make a concrete mixer with your own hands. Yes, it is possible if there are drawings. You will spend time on this, but it will more than pay off for you. Moreover, the device is not as complicated as it seems at first glance. The concrete mixer has a simple principle:
- there is a tub or something like a flask where the solution is mixed;
- drive, that is, the mechanism by which the tub rotates and mixing occurs;
- frame that holds it all together.
The concrete mixer has additional small parts, which will be discussed below, but these three are the main ones. And now let's delve into the nuances of making a homemade concrete mixer.
What is a concrete mixer
According to the mixing method, concrete mixers are mainly divided into four types: gravity, mechanical, vibration and combined. Let's talk a little about each, so that you have a little idea about it and so that you can choose the right one for yourself. After all, it can be used for absolutely different needs: basically this is the foundation (of a house, a fence and much more), but various building materials can be molded from it in shape. Blocks of cement, wood concrete and other things.
Gravitational
A unit of this type is the easiest option both to manufacture and to use. Do-it-yourself manual concrete mixer, the tub of which simply rotates along the axis, and the components of the mortar are mixed under the action of gravity. For large volumes, this option is not suitable, because it does not provide good mixing. But if you always knead the solution in small quantities and you didn’t need more, then this option may well be suitable.
Mechanical
Such a home-made forced-action concrete mixer in its pure form is rarely used, because it has a number of disadvantages. It looks like this: a barrel in a horizontal position with a hole at the top for the entire length. The axis runs along the center of the barrel, and metal parts are welded to it, which mix the solution. The hole does not allow you to turn the barrel in only one direction and have to swing it from side to side. Compared to gravity, it has a larger volume, which is a plus. The disadvantages are: poor mixing in the corners and splashing of the solution at high vibrations.
Sometimes mechanical concrete mixers are made absolutely motionless, only the axis inside it moves, to which metal dividers are welded. This design is well suited for the manufacture of wood concrete blocks. We will talk about this below.
Vibrating
Making this type of manual concrete mixer with your own hands is not such a simple matter. The basic principle is that the solution remains stationary and all the mixing work is done by the vibrator. There are many nuances here, which, if not taken into account, will only lead to wasted time.
The tub must be round, not wide, but high, similar to the shape of a Soviet washing machine. The vibrator should be of a strictly defined shape, similar to two low plates stacked together. Actually, at home, two metal plates are the best option. The vibrator should not be too large, its size depends on the volume of the mixing vessel. If you overdo it in choosing the size, then even with visible work, it still will not mix. And the last thing: the location of the vibrator inside the vessel is strictly along the axis, the distance to the bottom of the barrel is equal to the diameter of the vibrator.
If all these conditions are met, the ideal solution from your barrel is guaranteed. But with poor quality sand or cement, it will take a little longer to mix. One minus: high power consumption. And in no case do not try to use a perforator as a drum vibrator. Many craftsmen tried to make a concrete mixer, but most often failed.
Combined Concrete Mixer
This type of concrete mixer is a combination of gravity and mechanical installation. The solution rotates in a horizontal or inclined plane, and protrusions are made inside the vessel itself, which additionally help to mix the components. They are usually made of metal plates of various shapes, which are welded to inside flasks. This type of concrete mixer allows you to mix a large volume of mortar, the mixing quality is also good. Weld plates in a concrete mixer will not amount to great work, so this type is the most widely used. In the future, we will talk about this type of concrete mixers.
We manufacture a concrete mixer
The theory is over. Let's get down to practice. Now let's take a closer look at how to make a concrete mixer with your own hands. This process must be divided into several stages. We know that a concrete mixer consists of three main components: a mixing bucket, a drive, and a frame. If everything is clear with the drive, it can be either manual or mechanical, when a concrete mixer uses a gearbox and an electric motor, then we will dwell on the manufacture of the tub and frame in more detail. If there are drawings at hand during work, it will be generally wonderful.
Making a bucket
The most popular item used as a mixing vessel is standard 200 liter drums. With some reservations, it is suitable for any type of homemade concrete mixer. You can use the body of the washing machine if it is strong enough. But that would be too easy, our goal is to make the tub ourselves.
First, the material. For walls, we take metal with a thickness of at least 2 mm, for the bottom - at least 5 mm. Secondly, the form. It is cylindrical, but at the top in the neck area should narrow in the form of a cone.
Let's write down the sequence of actions point by point:
- We make a flange-hub. You can find her drawings and make it yourself, but it's better to buy a ready-made one. The detail is important, but not easy to manufacture.
- We make the bottom of sheet steel with a minimum thickness of 5 mm. In the very center we drill holes and attach the flange-hub.
- We cut out five main parts of the body from metal 2 mm thick - a shell (it folds up and a cylinder is obtained) and four petals, which are then fastened together to form a cone.
- We connect the bottom, shell and cone with welding machine and get the base of the barrel for mixing.
- We strengthen the neck so that later it does not deform. To do this, we weld a reinforcing bar of 10 mm to its circumference.
- Inside the barrel we weld crosswise cutters. Usually two or three is enough. They are also made from reinforcement, but more durable, or from metal plates. The main thing is to bend them at a right angle. They will mix the solution. In addition, due to them, a homemade concrete mixer will be stronger.
When the tub-mixer is ready, you can start making the frame.
Frame manufacturing
The frame is the backbone of the entire structure. A bucket, a drive and a gearbox are attached to it. For good stability, the legs of the support are welded, and to make it easy to move the concrete mixer, even when filled with mortar, wheels are installed. The frame design itself can be different, the main thing is to maintain stability during the operation of the entire device. Many craftsmen for this adapt various unnecessary metal parts collected in the corners of their summer cottage.
- The concrete mixer is based on a T-shaped design, due to which a home-made concrete mixer will stand steadily on the surface. The first post is vertically welded to it.
- Welded to the second post cross beam along the edges of which the wheels are attached.
- Both racks are fastened together at the bottom with a beam (this makes the structure more stable) and at the top with a stretcher, which will later serve as the basis for attaching the tub.
- The frame is reinforced with an inclined rack, to which the capacitor box and the starter are attached. These two devices serve to turn on the rotation mechanism.
- The subframe is made of two pipes and a corner. It looks like a double frame, fastened with jumpers.
- An electric motor and gearbox are installed on the subframe.
- The hub flange, which is already attached to the tub, is put on the gearbox. To fix the mixer, a key is used and it is finally fixed with a bolt through a hole in the shaft.
- A handle is attached to the subframe, which allows you to tilt the mixer tub at different angles.
- At the end, the frame is protected from scale and covered with paint for metal. The tub can also be painted, but only on the outside, inside the barrel is not necessary.
Now the do-it-yourself concrete mixer is ready for use! You can pour the foundation, install pillars, pour forms of building blocks from wood concrete and much more.
Drive for homemade concrete mixer
In practice, it often happens that the master already has an electric drive and a gearbox of a certain power, and the concrete mixer and its parameters are selected based on this. The ratio of the volume of the mixed components and the power of the electric motor should be approximately as follows: 20 W per 1 liter of solution.
That is, if you have a 1 kW engine at your disposal, then the maximum volume of the mixture should be 50 liters. Given that the tub must be loaded by 30-40%, then its approximate volume can be from 125 to 160 liters. For a standard 200 liter barrel, a gearbox with a 1.2 kW electric motor is suitable, the load will be equal to 60 liters of solution.
The number of turns is also important. Optimum value: from 30 to 50 rpm. If you do more, then the solution may splatter. You can do less, of course, but then the mixing process will be long, and excess electricity will be consumed.
If there is no electricity
There are times when you need to start construction on a site where electricity has not yet been installed. Then we do not need the engine, but we will use manual power. The sequence of actions in the manufacture remains exactly the same, only the drive is replaced by two handles - on one side and the other. The disadvantage is that it takes more effort to mix and it will take more time. But for short and small works, this option can be considered quite acceptable.
Washing machine tub
You can make a tub out of a washing machine if you have it lying around since Soviet times. Moreover, the body of almost any washing machine is suitable for this. You just need to solder all the holes in the drum of the old washing machine. For this, a machine with both horizontal and vertical loading is suitable. There is another feature of this option. If the amount of mortar that you are going to knead in the future concrete mixer is not too large, then the washing machine engine will fit perfectly as a drive.
Using a concrete mixer
A concrete mixer is rarely used in one place. Often you have to drag it or roll it around the site, so prepare an extension cord of sufficient length in advance. Components are loaded into a tub with an inclination of 20-40 degrees in the following order: water, cement, sand, and lastly crushed stone, gravel, expanded clay are poured.
For complete mixing of the concrete solution or a mixture of wood concrete, 3 to 5 minutes are enough, then the bucket is tilted with the handle, and the solution is poured into the place prepared for this. You can immediately fill in a new portion of the components and continue working.
After a hard day's work, the device, all its connections and seams must be thoroughly rinsed. Usually this happens already in the evening, when there is not much strength left and you want to leave everything, because the next day it will again have to be dirty. Don't be lazy. Even in such a situation, it is better to rinse the concrete mixer, this will increase its service life.
Wood concrete blocks consist mainly of two components. In addition to various chemical additives, this sawdust and chips, as well as the hydraulic binder Portland cement. Such blocks are valuable because houses made of them perfectly retain heat. Therefore, blocks of wood concrete - perfect solution for the construction of the walls of a warm house. As for the properties of wood concrete, it is low thermal conductivity, increased bending strength, does not support combustion, and is easy to process.
Imagine that everything worked out for you and now you are the owner of a very useful thing in construction - this is a concrete mixer. But so that its service life does not end with one foundation or a set fence, and the thing serves you for a long and long time, you will have to follow the safety rules and take care of it:
- Pay close attention to cables and contact connections. They must be securely isolated. The work takes place in conditions of high humidity and water splashing, so the requirements of electrical safety rules come first;
- The vibration that accompanies the operation of the concrete mixer relaxes threaded connections your makeshift bucket. Therefore, periodically check them and tighten them. And do not forget about the welds, they can also be broken;
- Before turning on the machine, make sure it is stable. All regular stands should rest firmly on the ground, and it is desirable to install wheel chocks under the wheels;
- It is impossible to check the quality of the solution during the operation of the concrete mixer, there are frequent cases of serious industrial injuries;
- Use skin and eye protection;
- Never leave a running concrete mixer unattended.
Conclusion
In conditions of total savings, when the budget for construction work is limited, and this is no wonder these days, many people save on quality building materials or on the services of third-party masters. But there are craftsmen who also save on construction equipment. Of course, make a drill or electric planer- a dubious occupation. But the concrete mixer, despite its apparent complexity and bulkiness, is ideal for this, even for home production blocks from wood concrete. You could see this in our article.
Let's summarize. A small number of parts, some of which can be found right on your site. Homemade concrete mixer has a simple scheme, drawings and manufacturing sequence. You will also need a few tools: a grinder, welding, work with a drill, and, possibly, a soldering iron. From Supplies: bolts, nuts, washers, metal sheet and angle. The main thing is to clearly define in advance why you need it and what you want to see as a result of your work. Then your concrete mixer will not yield to any industrial production, even if it is made from the body of a washing machine.
