For the improvement of the site, either mortar or concrete is often needed. Kneading it by hand is hard and long, and the quality of the solution is far from the best: it is difficult to achieve uniformity. Not everyone wants to buy a concrete mixer for its periodic use. A good way out is a do-it-yourself concrete mixer. You need a little money, in terms of performance, home-made units are no worse than Chinese ones, and sometimes even better.
manual concrete mixer
There is not always electricity at the construction site, and large volumes of mortar and concrete are also not always required. The way out is to make a small volume concrete mixer that will rotate manually (with manual drive). The designs of these models are simple and uncomplicated.
From a milk flask
The simplest manual concrete mixer can be made with an ordinary metal flask (previously milk was sold in such). You will also need pipe trimmings or some other scrap metal. The design is simple, such a do-it-yourself concrete mixer is implemented in a couple of hours. The main thing is to weld the frame. The assembly of the concrete mixer itself will take a couple of tens of minutes on the strength.
Make a frame from round pipe bend the handle. In the upper part of the frame, weld two water couplings (for example). Their inner diameter is slightly larger diameter pipe used for the handle. The pipe is passed through the flask, welded to the body.
To make the barrel spin easily, you need to find the center of gravity. To do this, you can put it on some thin object, and moving it forward / backward, find this very center. This is where you need to pass the pen through it. Having skipped the handle, it is attached to the walls of the case. This is where difficulties can arise: flasks are usually made from aluminum alloy, and the handle can be made of steel. It will not be possible to connect from by welding. The only available way out is cold welding. He is quite real. Other modes - with bimetallic gaskets or argon-arc welding at home are not implemented. Another way out is to weld plates on the handle, which are riveted to the sides of the flask.
So that the handle does not play much and does not fall out during operation, nuts are welded to it on both sides of the coupling.
In general, this is all about making a manual concrete mixer with your own hands. For one batch in a 40 liter can, you can get 2.5-3 buckets of solution. More than enough for use in the country or on the site near the house (without construction).
If there is no can, you can adapt a barrel (thick-walled). Then the problem with welding the handle disappears, but you will have to come up with a system for fixing the lid. You can do something similar to the one that the can has.
In the video - an example of a manual home-made concrete mixer from a milk flask. The design is slightly different, but not too different. Eat interesting idea- dividers are welded to the pipe inside the tank, which accelerate mixing.
From the barrel (manual and electric)
The author called this design a “drunken barrel” because of the peculiar trajectory of movement. The whole point is that the axis of rotation goes obliquely through the container. Because of this, the solution rolls over from one wall to another. The design is also simple and effective. What is important - there are no problems with welding dissimilar metals. A drawing of a manual concrete mixer from a barrel is shown below.
In the upper part of the frame, bearings are installed in the center, into which the handle is threaded. Thanks to them spinning 200 liter barrel easily. Just choose a container with thick walls - it will last longer. Inside, no additional blades are welded: they only delay the components, interfering with mixing and complicating unloading.
IN original design the hatch of loading/unloading is in the bottom. This is a cut-off part (approximately 1/3), attached with loops to the bottom, equipped with sealing rubber around the perimeter and closed with two locks. When loading the barrel, turn it so that the hatch is at the top. When unloading - turn down. The solution moves by gravity into the substituted container, and the stuck one can be removed by tapping on the body with a hammer or sledgehammer.
This design served the author for 10 years, although it was made for one-time work, but it turned out to be very successful: 2.5 buckets of solution mix well in 20-30 revolutions. During this time, it was repeated and improved by neighbors and acquaintances. Basically, the alterations concerned the hatch. Experimentally, its most successful design was revealed - similar to the one used in the milk flask. Such a "neck" is welded to the body of the barrel on one side (see the photo above). They also make handles on both sides - for the possibility of working together.
This design easily turns into an electric homemade concrete mixer. Doesn't fit very well powerful engine- 1 kW for a barrel of 200 liters is enough, a small asterisk is attached to the axis of which, an asterisk is welded to the axis-pipe bigger size(to reduce the number of revolutions), they are connected using a chain (from a scooter, for example).
Do-it-yourself electric concrete mixer from a barrel and a washing machine engine
This concrete mixer is gear type. To make this model you need:
- barrel made of galvanized steel for 180 liters (diameter 560 mm, height - 720 mm);
- engine washing machine- 180 W, 1450 rpm;
- flywheel and starter gear from Moskvich 412;
- two pulleys from a washing machine with a diameter of 300 mm and 60 mm;
- wheels from a garden cart;
- frame scrap.
Gears, wheels - everything is old, everything was in the garage
First of all, we clean everything from rust, process it with a rust converter and cover it with primer.
We cook a frame from pipes, a channel. We strengthen the corners of the frame by welding metal plates. Everything must be tough and reliable. We make a serious crossbar: a barrel with a solution will “hang” on it, and everything will vibrate and spin.
The frame is the basis of the structure. Pipes are almost new.
We weld the pins seat under the gears. We clean from rust, process with a rust converter, primer.
We fix the wheels from the cart. They have justified themselves with wide treads: it is not difficult to drag a concrete mixer even just around the site.
From the pipes we cook more structures for the stop and installation of the entire “filling”.
The second is for greater stability
We begin to assemble the drive. First we put a large gear on the previously welded pin.
We install an assembly in the seat - a small gear connected to a wheel for a belt drive.
We attach the engine to the plate welded in advance.
We hang it so that the two belt drive wheels are at the same level. It is also necessary to ensure the normal tension of the belt.
It remains to attach the barrel. In it in the center we make a hole for a large pulley, we drill a hole for fasteners. We put it in place.
Only the electrical part remains. The cable is connected via
A few photos of the main nodes. Maybe someone needs to take a closer look.
The second transmission option is from a car disk
The 200-liter barrel, its edges were cut, bent and welded, forming the usual "pear".
They made a “pear” from a barrel
The car disk was bolted to the bottom (with rubber gaskets). It was selected so that a recess for the belt drive was formed. A hub was pre-attached to the disk.
Blades were welded inside the barrel for more efficient mixing of the solution.
All this economy was attached to the frame.
Where the plate is welded is a place for the engine. We expose it so that the belt runs smoothly. Power was supplied through the toggle switch, the timer was switched on sequentially from the washing machine, from which the motor was removed.
In general, the rotation speed turned out to be 35-40 rpm. Should be enough.
Homemade mixers in the video version
If understandable general principle how a concrete mixer is made with your own hands, you can modernize and redo it, adjusting it to the available details. Help in this video, collected in this section.
crown type
Another option, only no longer geared, but of the crown type. The crown, by the way, can be bought (cast iron or plastic) and installed on the barrel.
With rollers as a support
When large-scale construction works, not the last question that needs to be decided where to get a mortar mixer - if you mix the mortar manually, then the lost time does not compensate for the savings from not buying a concrete mixer. Some skill in welding and locksmithing and instructions on how to make a concrete mixer with your own hands will help reduce costs.
Basic principles of operation of mortar mixers
According to the principle of operation, a do-it-yourself concrete mixer is no different from industrial analogues - the differences will be only in the materials used and sizes. In addition, it will be easier to repair a concrete mixer with your own hands, since you know the mechanism you have made yourself inside and out.
Based on the scope of the planned work and the available components, finished device can mix concrete in a concrete mixer by force, gravitational or combined. The latter is used most often due to the ease of manufacture of the device and the high quality of its work.
Forced mixing of the solution
It works according to this principle construction mixer or a drill with a special nozzle - a whisk is lowered into the solution and, rotating, mixes its components. But such tools are more suitable for gypsum plasters- sand and cement, especially with the addition of crushed stone, have a much greater weight, so at best you simply won’t get a high-quality mixture, and at worst - when making a mortar, you can burn the drill motor or its gearbox yourself.
For the preparation of concrete, a slightly modified design is used - a shaft passes through the center of the tank, on which blades are mounted, mixing the components of the mixture. Also good results show frame mixers that break up clods of mortar, turning it into a homogeneous mixture. Some builders are convinced that only such an arbolite mixer can prepare an arbolite solution with high quality.
Advantages and disadvantages
This method shows excellent results in production, but before using it at home, you should weigh the pros and cons of the design.
There is only one advantage - such a concrete mixer will produce the most homogeneous solution in the shortest time.
The disadvantages of such a device are much more:
- The complexity of the design. It is necessary to ensure the tightness of the place where the shaft passes through the mixing container. This determines how often the bearing needs to be replaced, which is usually installed in this place. It is also necessary to reduce the "dead zones" that are located near the walls of the tank - the blades or frame must rotate freely, but at the same time pass close enough to the surface so as not to leave unmixed parts of the solution there.
- Need quality parts. concrete mortar quite heavy in itself, and adding crushed stone or other inclusions to it requires additional capacities from the concrete mixer. As a result, in order to get a good concrete mixer, you need to remember or master the basics of strength of materials.
- The design is not designed for the preparation of a solution that includes medium and large fractions of crushed stone or expanded clay - they will simply get stuck between the blades and walls.
- Large power consumption. Again, everything is tied to the density and weight of the concrete in which the blades will rotate. For the same reason, a homemade forced-action concrete mixer must necessarily be with an engine - if you try to rotate the shaft manually, you can use shovels with the same success.
If the quality of the mortar and the speed of its mixing are more important, then a forced concrete mixer with your own hands can be made according to the following schemes.
Details and device
The design consists of the following components:
- Carrying frame. Its execution is individual in each case.
- Drum for a batch, with smooth internal walls.
- working shaft. Frames or blades are attached to it, mixing the solution.
- Electric motor.
- Reduction gear.
- Coupling. Transfers force from the gearbox to the shaft. It can act as a fuse in case of jamming.
- Luke for rashing the finished solution.
- Lever for opening the hatch (or turning the drum).
Do-it-yourself forced-action concrete mixers require special attention to the way in which the prepared mortar will be unloaded. This is a hatch in the bottom of the mixing container or a device for completely turning it over so that the finished mixture is poured out through the loading compartment. Which of the methods is more suitable, it is advisable to decide in advance.
Visually forced concrete mixer in the video:
Gravity mixing
When using this method, the container itself is spinning into which the components of the solution are poured. Mixing occurs due to the constant pouring of sand and cement from top to bottom. The most difficult thing in this design is to ensure that the lid closes tightly so that water does not seep through it.
The most important advantage of the design is its simplicity. Such a do-it-yourself mortar mixer can be made from an ordinary can, even an unnecessary and leaky one will do. Do not drink water from it, so the hole can be closed by any means, and the neck rarely deteriorates and still provides the necessary tightness.
Such devices can also be used during construction in places where there is no electricity - such a home-made concrete mixer made by oneself does not have to be equipped with an electric drive, although its presence will greatly simplify the work.
Working on the same principle, but more common is a homemade concrete mixer from a barrel. It is easier for her to find a container, it is more capacious and mixing the solution allows you to perform more thoroughly. As practice has shown, the solution is better mixed in a barrel fixed in opposite corners.
Details and device
The following components are used:
- Iron barrel of suitable size. Some craftsmen adapt plastic containers for these purposes.
- Frame. There are no restrictions - full scope for imagination. The main thing is that it is convenient to pour out your finished solution.
- A shaft that supports a container that can support the weight of a barrel of cement.
- Bearings.
- Pen. The longer it is, the easier it is to rotate the shaft.
- Handle.
- Cover for draining the finished solution.
- Clips that hold the lid to the neck.
- Seals.
- Hinges for opening the lid.
How a do-it-yourself concrete mixer from a barrel works is clearly shown in the following video:
Combined concrete mixers
The most common devices - the solution is mixed due to gravitational influence, plus breaking up lumps with blades or pins welded to the body of the barrel. Suitable for making arbolite with your own hands. They require more time to prepare the solution than forced mixers, but have an extensive list of advantages:
- The design is as simple as possible, reliable and unpretentious in operation.
- Less force is generated on the shaft that rotates the barrel, which allows the use of not as powerful electric motors as for forced mixing. As a result - significantly less wear on components.
- It is not required to seal any joints - the solution is mixed inside the barrel, and all the nodes of the mechanism are outside.
- It is possible to mix solutions with any size fractions of crushed stone, expanded clay and other fillers.
The simplest combined manual concrete mixer made by hand from iron barrel- it's the same manual concrete mixer, but with blades or combs welded on the inside. If necessary, an electric motor can be connected to it.
Self-manufacturing
A factory-made or do-it-yourself concrete mixer consists of three main components: a bucket in which the mortar is mixed, a frame for attaching the components and a drive - manual or electric (in some cases motors from a moped or scooter are used).
In the video, a home-made tub for combined mixing of the solution is installed on a T-16 tractor:
Solution bucket
First, you need to consider its size, given that it will be loaded by 30-40%. No more, as the solution will splash out and mix poorly.
Secondly, attention should be paid to the shape - it should be pear-shaped. From above, so that water and mortar do not splash out, from below - so that concrete particles do not clog into the corners between the wall and the bottom.
This tub is almost ready plastic barrel the right sizes- besides the fact that it fits the shape, an additional plus will be her weight.
Alternatively, a concrete mixer can be made from a washing machine - if an old Soviet round “washer” is lying around in the attic, then a laundry tank is removed from it, which is specially designed to have liquid spinning inside it. The bottom is strengthened, the top is narrowed and the tank is ready.
If there is nothing suitable, then a pear for a concrete mixer can be made from a steel sheet with a cross section of 2-3 mm. For the bottom, you should take a thicker metal - about 5 mm - the main load from the drive will go to it.
With a diameter of 500 mm and a height of 400, a compact bucket is obtained, in which, however, 30 liters of solution can be prepared at a time.
The following drawings will tell you more about the design:
It is possible to make a quality pear for a concrete mixer without using the blades. In the diagram shown, instead of them, mortar dividers from 16 mm reinforcing bar are welded inside the tank, which additionally strengthen the structure. This design is an excellent mixer for wood concrete.
Attachment to the shaft occurs through the hub from car wheel, which is welded or screwed to the bottom. If there are no auto parts lying around in the garage, then the fasteners will have to be made manually according to the drawing.
Carrier frame
There can be a variety of variations in its design - there is complete freedom of action, the main rule of its manufacture is that it securely holds all the components and gives free access for loading and unloading concrete.
The main differences in engineering are in the method of pouring the finished solution, for which the tub itself is made movable, or the entire frame is designed in a certain way.
For a bucket made of steel sheet, a frame that provides it with an inclination will be optimal. The container itself is connected to the gearbox drive (15), to which the force comes from the engine (17) through the clutch (16).
All this is mounted on a subframe (18) and rotates on a hinge (14). For different types solutions, the working slope of the bucket can be adjusted, for which an eyelet (22) is welded to the subframe, through which a sector (10) passes, held in the desired position by a pin (23).
The main provisions of the sector need at least three:
Slope 50% - for heavy solutions.
Slope 30% - for light mixtures (for example, plaster).
Horizontal position for rinsing the container.
Electric motor and gearbox
Rarely, these parts are bought separately - the easiest way is to use what is at hand. The electric motor is suitable from the washing machine, circuit diagram from the same place, and the gearboxes are assembled from bicycle wheels, belt or chain gears. The closest thing to the factory design is a flywheel welded to the bottom, which spins from the “native” Benedix of an automobile starter mounted on a shaft.
All calculations are made based on the following considerations:
- Engine power is selected according to the ratio of 20 watts per liter of solution.
- The number of revolutions that the gearbox produces for the tub should be in the range of 30-50 per minute. A smaller amount will increase mixing time, and a larger amount will splatter the solution or even cause centrifugal forces, due to which mixing will not occur.
Briefly about the main
manual concrete mixer, assembled with your own hands, this is a completely solvable task for a person who knows how to properly work with a welding machine and has the skills of plumbing.
If a do-it-yourself mixer is made from a barrel, then you can pick up a plastic container that is already completely ready for installation.
When assembling, you need to remember about the engine power, the optimal number of revolutions and the careful centering of the mechanism.
Like many summer residents, the do-it-yourself concrete mixer was made by our user belor44 not for fun. In the summer, the foundation for the house was to be poured. The nearest mortar-concrete unit, where it would be possible to purchase a high-quality building mixture, was located 80 km from the dacha. The cost of concrete with delivery was impressive. Another option - to hire "Tajikstroy" - also quickly disappeared: these workers have constant problems with the tool.
How to make a pear;
How to make a bed;
How to make a reducer.
How to properly load components for a raster.
How to choose the volume of a pear
40 cubic meters of concrete is a considerable amount for manual labor alone. And why, when a simple device will cope with this task! So the idea gradually matured to knead the concrete himself, with the help of a concrete mixer. But even here everything was not simple: the devices presented in retail outlets left much to be desired.
The conclusion suggested itself: a small do-it-yourself home-made concrete mixer. In the search engines, the forum member found everything he needed to know: design, dimensions, drawings, calculations, etc. For a simple home-made concrete mixer, a volume of 0.25 cubic meters seemed optimal. Belor44 found all the necessary “rough” used material at metal collection points and car dismantling points.
On FORUMHOUSE you will find that will help you decide on the volume.
How to make a pear
Sledgehammer - in right hand, the left one holds parts cut from 2.5 mm thick metal. You can start! The forum member brought all the elements of the future pear to desired shape on the channel.
The bottom of the device was cut from sheet metal 5 mm thick.
A homemade concrete mixer pear can be made from a metal barrel!
One of the difficult operations for belor44 was to combine all the details of the pear. First, he tied the middle and bottom. This was again helped by the best assistants of the Russian master - a log and a sledgehammer.
The sledgehammer had to work hard, but carefully. It didn’t work out like this for a forum member: the bottom flew out from the impact. After several unsuccessful attempts, he made a kind of limiter on the middle part of the pear: he cut the edges slightly, by 5 mm, and bent inward. He inserted the upper part into the middle and "picked out" with the help of a nail puller and a log.
The experience that came after was that everything should not have been done so tightly. It was necessary to “weaken” the top, limiting its exit in the same way as he did with the bottom.
What mistakes can be made
Before installing the upper part (until the weight of the structure became unbearable), belor44 arranged a seat for the pear. Forumchanin believes that this is his main miscalculation. First of all, he broke the structure. The second mistake - he cooked steel with cast iron. The master really wanted to get the most disassembled mechanism! After all, considerable loads were assumed, and, therefore, repairs. However, in this case, the forum member believes, instead of a brake disc, it made sense to cut a reliable circle of steel, this would improve the quality of the product.
How to make a bed
Finally, belor44 took up the frame, on which everything already assembled will be held. The forum member did not have the opportunity to acquire free bearings, so he decided to make the tipping mechanism simple: a pipe inside a pipe. A do-it-yourself concrete mixer was not made for sale, so this option is a pretty good solution.
The main thing when designing a frame is to choose the center of gravity. Otherwise, the device will tip over. Unloading of concrete should take place without much effort. If during operation you will transport the concrete mixer around the site, put the frame on wheels!
The base of the forum member turned out to be powerful and heavy: not very good, but belor44 decided that it was better than devices of dubious manufacturers that wobble during operation. And the assistant, in case of a rearrangement, the master had more than a good one - a crane.
How to make a reducer
For the rotation mechanism, belor44 bought a flywheel and hub from Volga and a bendix from Moskvich. He did not remove the crown from the flywheel axis, although he added weight to an already not so light device. I decided that centering it and attaching it to a pear is a troublesome business, and the forum member planned a removable pear - so that later it could be changed to a sieve.
For tipping, belor44 welded a mechanism to the frame - a flywheel and a gear from classic vase. He cut off the gear from the bendix, then welded it to the roller. Two bearings were used, they fit tightly into the selected pipe. I also made a hex wheel.
I had to weld additional amplifiers. The forum member scalded the neck with a six and set about making a “gearbox”. Again, acted old scheme: shaft, pipe, two bearings. On the shaft and the engine, he calculated the pulleys in such a way that there were no more than 25 revolutions per minute.
The forum member used the engine at 380 V, 0.6 kW - it is small, but it has been proven, since the times of the Union.
Experience in construction
Ready, the first tests were successful. Having studied the experience of members of the forum, belor44 found the most acceptable order for loading components for mixing concrete:
- Loaded all the rubble;
- Poured some water;
- Fall asleep part of the cement;
- Filled up with water again
- Another piece of cement;
- A little sand.
For the blind area of the garage, the owner made the solution stronger by mixing cement, sand, crushed stone and water in a ratio of 1: 2: 3: 0.7 -0.6 and adding C-3 plasticizer.
To make it more convenient, when loading, the forum member put the pear vertically. Due to this, two buckets of 12 liters of cement, 4 of sand, 6 of crushed stone, 2 (0.7 liters each) of water were freely placed and mixed in the containers.
See other topics of our users about:
vibrating tables, vibrating plates, mixers, concrete mixers with photos, drawings and reviews.
According to the materials of the participant of the forum "House and Dacha"
Any owner of the site wants to equip it as much as possible - to erect the necessary buildings, create flat areas and paths, etc. Often in such cases, concrete is required, and its manual preparation takes a lot of time and effort. You can, of course, buy a ready-made unit for these purposes, but considerable funds will be required. DIY concrete mixer solves such problems(see others for private construction).
A concrete mixer is an installation designed for the preparation by uniform mixing the necessary components of the mixture and ensure the desired consistency of the solution. In practice, four mixing principles are used:
- Gravity method. It is based on the use of the weight of substances, i.e. gravitational forces. The problem is solved in a rotating container (drum). The components that are at the top fall down onto other substances, due to which they are mixed. The repetition of this procedure is provided by many revolutions of the drum. The main difference between the gravitational method is rotation of the entire container with concrete mix ingredients.
- mechanical method. This option is similar mixer. To stir the mixture, you need rotating blades, which descend into it and perform the task. Using mechanical way the working container remains stationary, and the blades inside it rotate.
- vibration method. It can be realized by shaking the components at a certain frequency. Home craftsmen rarely use this technology. due to installation complexity.
- Combined method. It combines the gravitational and mechanical approach. It can be implemented in two ways - independent rotation of the container and the blades located inside it, or rotation of the container only, but with the placement of rigidly fixed blades in it.
Types of concrete mixers and materials used
- working capacity;
- mixing blades;
- drive with transmission;
- body (bed);
- mechanism for unloading the solution.
According to the method of setting the torque, 2 types of installations are distinguished - manual and mechanized.
In the first case, the rotation is done manually, and the transmission increases the speed of rotation of the working body. Mechanization is provided by an electric or gasoline engine.
By working tank design the following main varieties are distinguished.
Milk can (flask)
From such a container, it is quite simple to make a manual concrete mixer. A pipe is passed through the center of gravity of the can, which goes out on both sides. The pipe must be securely fixed in the walls of the flask, for which it is used cold welding.
This design mounted on racks. On the one hand, the pipe is bent to form a handle, for which you can turn the container manually. The second pipe outlet is installed on the frame in the bearing. Suitable for such a simple installation. 40 l standard flask.
From the barrel
If use metal barrel up to 100 l, That manual installation produced in the same way as the previous one. When a barrel is used 200 l, fits good electric drive.
This design requires a container close tightly with a lid. A shaft is passed through the bottom and the lid of the barrel. When assembled, the container is installed on the racks of the bed so that the axis of rotation is inclined.
A large gear is mounted on the shaft from the side of the bottom of the barrel for chain drive or belt pulley. Torque provided electric motor with a power of 1-1.2 kW. The window for the ingredients is cut into the bottom closer to its edge. When loading, it is located at the top, and when unloading the solution - in the lower position.
Washing machine option
This Appliances and suggests itself in the basis of a concrete mixer. Most suitable option– . It is better to replace the activator reservoir with a metal barrel.
A shaft of the same diameter is installed in place of the gearbox. On the carving of the machine, the blades and brackets are strengthened, which must be well balanced. The drain hole is plugged. This homemade concrete mixer is quite suitable to prepare a small amount of concrete.
How to do it yourself?
When choosing the design of a homemade concrete mixer, one must proceed from availability of a home workshop and the necessary equipment. You should take care of such a tool in advance: a welding machine, a grinder, an electric drill, a vice, a hacksaw, a chisel, a set of files, pliers, a screwdriver, a hammer, a sledgehammer, a set wrenches, adjustable wrench, metal scissors, caliper, metal ruler.
Working capacity
Its volume is selected based on the need. For example, when building a basement, small structures, arranging paths, it is enough to find sealed tank for 40-60 l, and when building a house, you will need a container with volume not less than 100-120 l.
Large containers should be made of metal, and for miniature installations, durable plastic can be used.
For homemade devices any cylindrical, sufficiently strong tanks of the required volume are of interest - metal or plastic barrels, a large saucepan, a tank of a washing machine or heating installations (for example, Ariston), a milk can, etc.
The manufacturing process can be considered on the example of a barrel. The role of mixing elements can be performed comb formed inside the container. The comb is made of a metal rail, to which are welded in a row nails 20 cm long in increments of 8-12 cm.
Two such details are welded along the entire height of the barrel opposite each other. Then, in the center of the bottom and covers are attached on both sides bearing flanges, after which a hole is drilled and the shaft is threaded. To strengthen the shaft entry point, it is recommended to strengthen the bottom and cover by welding cross-shaped rails. The lid is hermetically welded to the body of the barrel. The loading opening can be made bottom or side.
Body and base
The body of the concrete mixer must withstand significant loads during operation, caused by a rotating container with fully loaded solution. The base of the housing must ensure its stability during operation, despite vibrations and torque.
To do this, the width of the support is selected approximately twice as much working container diameter. The drum is mounted on vertical racks, which are reinforced with oblique supports.
For the base it is recommended to use a corner measuring at least 10x10 cm. The tank is installed at a height of at least 110 cm. The lower position makes it difficult to unload the solution. All connections are best provided by welding, but in the absence welding machine can be envisaged threaded connection using bolts with a diameter of at least 20 mm. For small concrete mixers the body can be made of wood - timber and board.
Engine
IN homemade devices, most often, rotation is provided by an electric motor power 1-2 kW.
It attaches securely to the frame base and is adjustable for alignment.
The transmission of torque to the shaft of the working capacity is carried out using chain or belt drive.
To do this, a gear or pulley of the appropriate diameter is pressed onto the working shaft. It is recommended to keep the drum rotation speed within 20-30 rpm. For this, the required gearbox on the engine is used and the diameter of the driving and driven gears (pulley) is selected.
final assembly
Direct assembly of the concrete mixer is carried out in the following order:
- Enclosure mounting and strengthening the foundation. If necessary, it is weighted.
- Installation and fixing working capacity on vertical racks. Best Option- the shaft is inclined.
- Installation electric motor and its gearbox on the frame so that the output gear (pulley) coincides with the location of the gear (pulley) on the drum shaft.
- Installation and adjustment transmission belt or chain.
- Installation electrical network , starting and control devices.
Common mistakes in the manufacture of a stirrer
Experience with home craftsmen homemade concrete mixers points to such typical mistakes allowed in the manufacture:
- Installation of old containers, in which holes quickly form when exposed to the solution. For the working body, it is necessary to select a high-quality tank that is not subjected to severe corrosion.
- Production of details "by eye". During installation, and even worse during operation, inconsistencies will definitely come to light. Everything must be done strictly according to the detailed drawings.
- The combination of cast iron and steel in the body does not give a reliable weld. As a result, they are destroyed by vibration.
- The container is selected taking into account that it can be filled with a solution of only 2/3 of the volume. Exceeding the load leads to engine failure.
Advantages and disadvantages
The main advantage of a homemade concrete mixer is in saving money during numerous works using concrete pouring. It allows you to reduce the complexity of preparing the solution, speed up construction, mechanize labor. Using such a device, you can carry out work without assistants. There is no need to think that the unused concrete will harden in a timely manner and will have to be thrown away.
A homemade concrete mixer also has significant drawbacks. In him there is no way to control the mixing process that is reflected in the quality of the concrete. When building a large object, it will not be able to fully satisfy the need for a solution. The materials used and the craftsmanship can only provide a limited operability of the plant.
Useful videos
Look at a homemade concrete mixer in action:
Manual drum agitator, see:
How to do it yourself - all the steps in detail:
Detailed story about self-manufacturing complete concrete mixer sheet metal and the engine from the washing machine, look:
On present stage development construction technologies, not a single building can do without the use of such a device as a concrete mixer.
Concrete is the main element of both large-scale construction and local construction. Summer cottages they simply cannot do without a concrete mixer, since with its help you can always correct construction errors or simply strengthen a well or other garden structures.
Of course, the option of mixing concrete using conventional shovel nobody canceled. But it is too laborious, besides, it allows you to knead only small volumes of concrete.
The expenditure of time and energy is enormous. In addition, concrete stagnates quickly enough, so often mixing concrete with a shovel can turn into a completely useless undertaking.
Market building materials replete with ready-made concrete mixers, which in most cases are beyond the reach of ordinary summer residents.
A do-it-yourself homemade concrete mixer comes to the rescue.
Detailed instructions and a visual aid will be presented below.
Done - the pride and joy of any summer resident. Instructions and possible options in our website.
Bubbleweed viburnum Diabolo is an elegant decoration of any garden. What in terms of care and reproduction?
Drawings and designs of homemade concrete mixers
First of all, for a concrete mixer, it is necessary to prepare containers of such dimensions that will be appropriate for your types of work.
Do not choose small containers. In them, the concrete will quickly stagnate, and if the amount of recycled material is not enough for you, you will need to knead it again. The most acceptable container volume is 200 liters.
The next step is to cut out the bottom of a medium size in your future concrete mixer.
Please note that any concrete mixer must be durable and stable. It is recommended to take the most responsible approach to manufacturing, since any inaccuracies will immediately lead to a breakdown of the structure.
In the event that the expected volume of work of the concrete mixer is not very large, then its frame may well be wooden.
The average size of a beam can be from 10x10 to 20x20, no more and no less.
It is important that the connection of the parts in the frame should be based on the tenon principle. In addition, it must necessarily be smeared with glue and planted on self-tapping screws.
This design guarantees long term operation of the concrete mixer.
The frame for the concrete mixer must be metal. In order to design it, stock up on a corner in advance small sizes. A channel is also suitable for his responsibility. Nuts, rivets, or even welding will help you fold the structure.
As for the engine, homemade concrete mixers often use a motor from old cars or scooters. Again, if production volumes are negligible.
motor from old washing machine will also come in very handy. Its advantage is that it can work for a long time without burning out.
Drawings of homemade concrete mixers in the photo gallery.
During the mixing of concrete, the torsion moment of concrete is important. The motor from the washing machine was originally designed for this, therefore it is able to withstand any load.
For a concrete mixer, a small number of revolutions is suitable - 25 revolutions per minute.
In order to provide this amount, reducers are needed. It is important that they are different schemes. The most primitive gearbox is the one that consists of a pulley and a belt.
Alternatively, this is a concrete mixer with a motor from an old moped or, as mentioned earlier, a scooter. Its advantage is that this option is very compact and mobile, since it does not require electricity to operate. Even on a large plot of the garden, it can be moved and transported without unnecessary hassle and inconvenience.
But as for the gearbox, it, of course, must be chain. Otherwise, such a design simply will not work.
The video describes in detail and shows how a concrete mixer is made with your own hands with drawings and visual aid for manufacturing.
A homemade concrete mixer from a barrel is one of the simplest DIY designs. But at the same time, it is able to mix concrete very well and, moreover, for a fairly long time.
In order to start using it, you do not need either gasoline or electricity.
Drawing of a concrete mixer from a barrel
Basically you need to find the right barrel. Pay attention to the fact that there are no holes in it and there is no rust.
The barrel must have a solid bottom and a good lid. If one of these components is missing, then you will have to weld it or fix it in some other way.
Next, on both sides you need to fix the flanges with bearings and after that cut a small hole from one side of the barrel. Secure the cut hole with hinges so that you can open and close this hatch at any time.
In order to securely attach your structure to the ground, a shaft must be threaded through it. Then, in the previously cut hatch, you can fill in the required ingredients and close the lid tightly. Start the mechanism, and after a while your mixture will be ready.
Please note that the design, which is based on a barrel, is able to mix other working, building materials.
In the video, a concrete mixer from a barrel based on an engine from a washing machine.
As a basis - a washing machine
First of all, it is worth noting that a machine that has a vertical load is best suited.
But even if it doesn't exist, it doesn't matter. If desired, a concrete mixer can be made from absolutely any model. Most importantly, it must necessarily have a container for the activator, which should be replaced immediately.
Reducer for concrete mixer
And in its place, install a shaft that will fit proportionately.
Important condition: and brackets and blades must be strictly symmetrical. The life of this device will largely depend on such a condition.
Please note that the brackets must have one mounting hole. And they must be connected in a perpendicular way.
Each washing machine has a drain hole of a different shape. In order not to damage it when mixing concrete, the drain must be fixed or completely changed, and subsequently drowned out.
Pictured is a concrete mixer from a washing machine
A homemade concrete mixer from a washing machine is not suitable for large volumes of work for many reasons. But otherwise, it will be simply irreplaceable.
In addition, it will give your equipment a second life, which, first of all, will save your money.
Common Mistakes
In the process of manufacturing this device, a number of errors may occur that must be foreseen in advance and, if possible, prevented:
- First, any the container you will use must be of high quality. Check in advance for holes, rust, or other damage.
- Secondly, follow instructions in detail. Since all deviations will lead to inconsistency in your actions, which means that there is a risk of eventually getting a low-quality concrete mixer.
- Thirdly, the metal frames that you will need for the concrete mixer, cannot be welded with cast iron. This will only complicate your already difficult work.
- Fourth, try not to overload your device with excess weight. If you are counting on a small amount of concrete, then do not exceed it.
Any craftsman can always save a decent amount of money if he knows how to make a concrete mixer with his own hands. Plus, it's not that hard to do.
It is enough to have a minimum of building materials, tools, resourcefulness and attention.
In addition, no matter what the concrete mixer is made of, it can serve you for a long time with proper care and proper design.
It is better to start the construction of two or three together. One person will not be able to cope with the amount of work that will need to be done at a time.
