To begin with, let's figure out what a miter saw is and why it is needed. It is worth noting that in the first place it is an electric tool designed to work with lumber. Secondly, the main feature of this tool is the ability to cut the ends of wooden parts exactly at the right angle.

Of course, such a tool is necessary to have in a carpentry workshop, with large amounts of work. How to make such a tool yourself will be discussed in this article.

Preparation of materials and tools for creating a table for a miter saw

After the decision to manufacture the right tool, it is necessary to prepare everything necessary to complete this work in a short time and not clutter up the workshop with materials and tools.

INimportant to remember! How better materials, the more reliable the tool will turn out, and the cut on the wooden workpiece will be of better quality.

Charting

Before starting preparations for building a table for miter saw with your own hands, you need to decide what functions this tool should perform, and what additional functions may come in handy. Thus, a diagram of the device, its drawings and details are drawn up. And only then drawings of each part are drawn up.

And important see the big picture of the entire device, not just the picture of each node.

Product assembly

It is recommended to start assembling the entire product by studying the drawings and all the parts necessary for assembling. You also need to check for metalwork tool, without which it will be impossible to assemble the table. Important take into account the order of assembly of each of the nodes. These nodes are described below.

We begin the manufacture of a table for a miter saw with the assembly of the base or platform on which the tool itself will be installed directly. The dimensions of this plate largely depend on the dimensions of the miter saw itself. Moreover, if we want to make a universal table so that other compatible tools can be installed on it, for example, such as a slotting machine, then the size is taken according to maximum size tool.

As a material, it is better to use 19 mm plywood, in the absence of such, you can use chipboard or MDF boards of suitable sizes, but plywood is more reliable.

1. Installation of side extensions. Quite often, parts of much greater length are used than the saw bed, and removable side extensions are installed for processing such parts. Moreover, you can use those, both on the right and on the left of the bed. Extensions are usually made from the same material as the frame itself. That is, 19 mm plywood will be enough.
2. Upper shelves: an important detail of the table. In order for the part to be freely attached to the extension, as well as for a more comfortable attachment of the extension itself to the frame, it is necessary to make upper shelves. They are fastened with screws both to the frame and to the extension. Shelves are also usually made from 19mm plywood. An important feature shelves is the presence of a tongue along the entire length of the part, 19 mm wide and 3 mm deep. Its purpose will be explained later.
3. The use of clamping plates. Clamping plates allow the most accurate and reliable alignment of the frame and extensions in width. To do this, it is best to use clamps that will tighten the extensions and the base of the table together. After such fixation, the extensions can be fixed to the base of the table.
4. Collaboration of machines. When several machines work together, as mentioned earlier, it is necessary to align their planes. If, for example, you want to use a mortising machine with a miter saw, then it must be installed so that the working planes of both machines coincide. So it will be necessary to align the heights of both machines. They are inserted into the tongues made in the shelves installed on the extensions.
5. Movable stops are also important. Mobile stops are designed to fix the part with the help of guide rails made of bars hard rock tree. The quality of the trimming of parts also largely depends on the quality of their manufacture.
6. How else can you use extensions? Extensions allow you to fasten parts of a sufficiently large length. In order to use them correctly, you need to reconfigure the table for such a part. Of course, it will take some time, but then it will pay off in the manufacture a large number long pieces.

So, to summarize: you can even make a table for a miter slab in your home workshop. At the same time, the result of manufacturing parts on this table will be much better than on an ordinary workbench.

Table for a miter saw in artisanal conditions

Table for a miter saw is a device that serves as the basis for installing this type of saw, facilitating work on face machining various kinds materials as in strictly vertical plane, so not at the required angle.

What it is

Worker installation table miter saw carries solid foundation where this cutting tool is mounted, a miter saw. You will like this design, it is made of a metal profile of various sections of different metal, and additionally durable species plastic. Additional elements (side extensions, guide shelves, not stops) can be made from lumber (board, plywood, chipboard or OSB board).

The dimensions of the table depend on the geometric dimensions of the material being cut (lumber, metallic profile, tubes as it is also called fittings). You will like the design more permanent, as it is also called sliding, which allows you to change the surface area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe table, which also depends on the material being processed and the working conditions.

The table, starting from the nature of the work performed, you will like it to be made stationary, as it is also called portable installation, with a device of legs, as it is also called, providing for installation on a flat horizontal surface located above the floor level.

DIY miter saw table

Read also

Support table, where there is an option to perform trimming various materials by installing miter saw buying in stores construction tool where a wide range of similar products. However, there are cases when it is not possible to buy what exactly is needed for the process of performing work, then the question arises, how to do it yourself.

Initially, you need to answer several questions, on which the parameters of the product under construction depend, not the material that will be used, these are:

1. Where will it be installed.
2. At what level will we perform fixing on the floor, in other words, a different surface.
3. What material and what geometric dimensions are to be processed.
4. What type, method of fastening is not the geometric dimensions of the end saw, which is to be installed on the manufactured table.

Preparatory stage

During such a period, you should answer the questions that were described above as for yourself, then draw a sketch of the product under construction.

Worker saw table Metabo KSU 400

AllTools.ru presents an overview desktop For drank Metabo KSU 400.

Performing work on the manufacture of the table

Of course, the frame will be made from a metal profile of various sections, available in the assortment set. The geometric dimensions of the frame depend on the available area where the equipment will be mounted, the dimensions of the miter saw and the type of installation (stationary or portable).

On the frame, it is necessary to provide for the installation site of the saw, which must correspond to the one in the assortment set (geometric dimensions, the height of one of the marks of a possible cut, the possibility of changing the spatial arrangement).

Read also

Regardless of the size and shape of the frame, it is necessary to provide for side extensions of the table, which can be made of durable plastic, sheet metal, or plywood. The presence of lateral extensions of the working surface will facilitate sawing of long-sized workpieces. If the side extensions are located below the level of the surface of the miter saw, then it is necessary to provide for the installation of special shelves along which the workpieces will move.

Not side stops will be useful, due to which, after fixing them, of course, a lot of workpieces will be trimmed according to fixed size. For stops use corners from different kind metal, equipped with clamping elements, through which the stops are fixed on working surface, in addition, other elements (bosses, bars, etc.) made of wood, in other words, plastic, which, of course, are fixed on working surface table.

For the convenience of performing work with a large number of workpieces, it is necessary to make pressure plates. For this purpose, you use sheet metal as it is also called a metal profile, which must be equipped with devices that allow them to be rigidly fixed on the desktop. This may be a bolted or other connection, at the same time one of the plates is placed under the surface of the table (lateral expansion), and the other above the surface of the workpieces. Compression is carried out by tightening the bolted, in other words, screw connection using nuts or shanks.

1. Produced by miter saw.
   When the work on the manufacture of the frame is not additional elements completed, it is necessary to install the frame on the prepared surface not to be rigidly fixed there. After that, install miter saw not manufactured additional elements.
2. Functionality check.
   As a result of the installation of the saw and other elements that facilitate the work on this type of cutting tool, it is necessary to check its performance.

If to check the saw it is enough just to turn it on electrical network, then to check the convenience of performing work on the manufactured table, it is necessary to perform certain work, the trimming of prepared blanks. Here you need to check that:

• The geometric dimensions of the table allow you to perform the entire set of operations that are supposed to be performed on this equipment;
• Table not a miter saw rigidly fixed along the floor as it is also called a different plane;
• The size of the extensions corresponds to the size of the blanks, they move easily and are not fixed;
• Setting the stops on the pressure plates is not hindered by any irregularities on the working surface tables are not frame elements.

The support table for the miter saw is a structural element that allows you to work with high performance labor, ensuring the safe performance of processing operations various types materials.

Equip either machine with these simple extensions to support long workpieces equipped with movable stops.

PROJECT OVERVIEW

The base and side extensions are easy to fit to any miter saw or slotter. If you have both of these machines, you can make one pair of extensions to use with each machine.

Ideal for saving space in small workshops, the base and extensions are quickly fixed to the workbench and are easily removed when there is no work for them.

One sliding fence for each machine can be installed on the left or right. The distance from the stop to the center of the machine can be changed from 915 to 1525 mm.

1. Making the base-platform

Measure the width and depth of the base of your miter saw or slotter. If the machine table protrudes beyond the dimensions of the bed, measure the width of the table. Add 38mm to the depth and 178mm to the width to determine the width and length of platform base A, as shown in the figure. Then saw the bottom piece out of 19mm MDF, plywood, or plastic-coated chipboard to these dimensions.

Measure the height of the machine table and reduce this measurement by 19 mm to determine the width of the posts B. Cut two posts of this width and a length equal to the width of the base A. Press the posts with clamps to the base, drill and countersink pilot holes through the base, then fasten the parts with screws. To use one pair of extensions for both machines, measure the height of each table. Reduce the largest dimension by 19mm and cut the posts to this width for both platform bases.

2. How to make side extensions

Cut the two bottom pieces C out of 19mm material to the dimensions shown in the picture. (If necessary, you can change the length of the extensions depending on your needs and available space.) To hang the extensions on the wall (when not in use), drill a 25mm hole in both pieces. Then cut out six D posts 152 mm long and the same width as the B platform posts. Cut out two additional F clamping plates of the same dimensions and set them aside. (They will be attached to the extensions in step 4.) Now clamp the uprights to the bottom pieces with clamps, centering the middle uprights, drill pilot holes and screw in the screws.

3. Add top shelves

Lay the platform base on the workbench and place your machine on top, centering it. Place one of the extensions close to the platform as shown in the picture. Measure from the outside of the far D-pillar to the edge of the machine table. You-

cut the two upper shelves E of this length and width of 152 mm. To use extensions with both machines, measure for each machine the distance from the far post to the edge of the table and cut the shelves to match the smaller size.

Now, on a saw machine with a 19 mm thick slotted disc, cut out a 10 mm deep tongue in the center of each shelf. Clamp the shelves to the C/D extensions, drill holes, countersink them and fix the shelves to the uprights with screws.

4. Install clamping plates

Place the extensions C/D/E close to the platform base A/B, aligning at the front. Take the clamping plates F cut earlier and attach them to inside platform B pillars, aligned with the leading edge as shown. Now compress pairs of adjacent posts B, D and clamping plates with clamps, drill holes through the upper shelves E, countersink them and fix the plates with screws.

5. Level and secure the machines

Attach the extensions to the platform base using clamps. Set the machine in place and level it in the middle of the width of the base. Pressing a long, even bar against the standard stop of the machine, adjust the position of the machine to align the rear edge of the bar with the rear edges of the upper shelves E.

Make sure the edges of the plank and shelves are parallel. Now remove the bar and extensions. Mark the centers of the mounting holes for mounting the machine, remove the machine and drill holes in the base-platform L. Countersink them from below and fix the machine with countersunk screws, adding washers and nuts.

To place the tables of both machines at the same height, cut out two wooden spacers, the width of which allows you to make mounting holes for screws that will secure the machine with a lower table. Bevel the spacers to a thickness equal to the difference in height between the two tables. Now, setting the machine with a low table, make holes. Fix the machine with screws by inserting spacers between it and the base.

6. Make movable stops

Determine the width of the sliding fence G for the miter saw by measuring the distance from the front edge of one of the extensions to the front of the fence on the machine table. The width of the sliding stop H for a slotting machine is determined by the distance from the front edge of the extension to the center of the bit. Measure from the center of the table to the inside of the D-pillar closest to the platform base to determine the length of the sliders. Having found out the dimensions, cut out the fly from 19 mm material.

Then using saw machine with a slotted disk, select tongues 3 mm deep on both sides of each part at a distance of 60 mm from the front edge and make dustproof folds with a section of 3 × 3 mm at the top and bottom along each end. Now saw out of hardwood and cut two guide rails I with dimensions 11x19x305 mm.

Measure from the protruding end of the top shelf E to the inside of the D pillar closest to the platform base, and saw the guide rails to that length. Glue them into the tongues of the sliding stops, aligning the ends with the shoulders of the dustproof folds, as shown in the figure. Note. For a slotter with a front workpiece clamp, it may be necessary to make a cutout on the sliding fence to allow the fence to be moved to the center of the table.

7. How to use extensions

First, fix the base-platform together with the machine with clamps on the workbench. Then install on both sides of the extensions, aligning them with the front edge of the platform and inserting the platform posts B between the extension posts D and the clamping plates F. Fix the extensions to the platform with clamps. If the mobile fence needs to be mounted further away from the machine, clamp both extensions with clamps, placing them on the same side of the platform, as shown in the photo. (In this example, the distance from the disc to the stop was 1620 mm.)

To work with the stops, simply insert the guide rail I into the tongue of the shelf E, move the stop to the desired position and fix its position with a clamp. If the fence needs to be positioned as far away from the machine as possible, slide the end of the fence that does not have a rail over the end of the extension. To move the stop from the right side to the left, simply turn it over.

Below are other entries on the topic "How to do it yourself - to the householder!"

Table-platform for miter saw

Project Overview

• Overall dimensions, mm: width - 1222 (3073 with extensions fully extended); depth - 508; height - 165.
• Weight about 26 kg.
• Necessary materials: one sheet of plywood 19 x 1220 x 2440 mm; one maple board 19x140x2440 mm; four galvanized pipes 3/4 inch x 1085 mm.
• Quick assembly with screws and glue.

First make the panels for the platform

1. Cut the top and bottom panels according to the dimensions indicated in the "List of Materials" A. Mark the centers of the four flange nut counterbore holes on the underside of the top panel (Fig. 1 And 2). Make counterbores and drill holes, then insert M6 flange nuts.

Using a combination square, measure the height of the miter saw table on a level surface.

2. To determine the width of the side support-handles B, measure the height of the miter saw table (photo A). In our case, this size

equal to 90 mm. Then cut the handles to the specified length and give them the width according to the measurements.

3. To make 25 x 190 mm slots in the handle supports, mark the centers of the 25 mm holes (Fig. 1). Use a Forstner drill to make holes, placing a piece of scrap underneath to prevent chipping. Finish the slots by sawing the excess material between the holes with a jigsaw. Then mill 6mm roundings around the edges of the slots on both sides.

4. Glue the side handles IN to the top side of the top panel A (Fig. 2). Drill holes and screw in screws.

After bending business cards around both ends of the pipe, press the middle guide rail C and screw it to panel A.

5. Cut out the pipe guides WITH. Glue two of them to the top side of the bottom panel A. lining up the edges (Fig. 1), fix with clamps, drill mounting holes and screw in screws. Prepare 1085mm lengths of 1085mm lengths of 3/4" tubing (for extensions) to mount the middle and inner rails. Using pipes and spacers made of thin cardboard (business cards will do), position and install the middle guides (photo B) and do the same for mounting the inner rails. The spacers will provide the clearance necessary for the pipes to slide freely between the guides.

6. Apply glue to the top side of the tube guides WITH and clamp the top panel A/B to the bottom A/C. smoothing out the edges.

Add extension supports

1. For extension supports D cut out four blanks measuring 152 x 508 mm. To determine their final width, place a miter saw on the top panel A. Lay the long straight board rule on the saw table and support handles IN. so that its ends extend beyond the edges of the platform. Measure the distance from the rule to the underside of the bottom bar. Sawing blank supports D to this width and save the trimmings.

2. For marking on extension supports D centers of holes into which the ends of the pipes are inserted (Fig. 1), mark on one end of the bottom panel A centers of openings between pipe guides WITH. Draw center lines for the outer opening at the front and for the inner opening at the back.

Align the ends of the support D with the bottom panel A and transfer the center marks of the pipe openings.

Rotate the support 90°. Mark on its end the position of the underside of the top panel A.

Now, pressing the extension support D edge towards the bottom panel, extend the indicated center lines of the openings (photo C). Flip the support over to press it against both panels and the rule, and mark the position of the bottom of the top panel on it with a line. (photo D). This line defines the top edge of the pipe holes so that the top of the supports is flush with the table top of the miter saw. Using a square, mark the crosshairs by drawing lines from the marks made on the support. Transfer these labels and draw lines on the remaining extension supports.

Align the Forstner bit with the marking lines on the support D. Drill holes with a diameter of 25 mm in the outer supports and 28 mm in the internal supports.

3. In the two outer supports of the extensions D use a Forstner drill to mark a hole with a diameter of 25 mm (photo E). Mark these parts as external. Insert a 28 mm drill into the chuck and set the stop so that the cutting rim of the drill aligns with the top line of the holes. Make holes in the two remaining supports. (Large holes will allow the extension supports to easily slide over the pipes.) Please note that the distance between the centers of the holes must be the same on all supports. When installing supports on pipes on both sides of the platform (Fig. 1) you will need to deploy the ends of one pair of supports.

By drilling mounting holes through the edges of the two outer supports D and through steel pipes, screw in the screws.

4. Mill 6 mm roundings on the edges of the holes of the internal supports D (Fig. 1). Check how the pipes are inserted into the holes of the external supports. Use a round file or an electric drill to widen the holes if you want the pipe ends to fit snugly into them. To save right position do not touch the top edge of the holes with a file or sandpaper. Insert the pipes, align their ends flush with the outer side of the external supports, drill mounting holes to fix the pipes and screw in the screws (Fig. 2, photoF).

5. Cut out the flaps E and drill 8mm holes in them (Fig. 1).

6. For attaching the flaps to the outer supports of the extensions D mark the center on the inside of each stop (Fig. 2). Pay attention to the different position of the holes in the right and left stops - they should be located at the front side of the platform table. Having made counterbores and drilled holes, insert M6 flange nuts into them.

Completion

1. Cut out the rails F for mounting the structure on sawhorses. Glue them on the bottom along the edges of the bottom panel A. leaving between them a distance corresponding to the thickness of the upper bar of saw goats (Fig. 1).

2. Sand all parts with #180 sandpaper and soften all sharp corners and ribs. Remove sanding dust. If desired, apply a colorless weatherproof coat. (We used two coats of oil varnish.)

3. Attach the flaps E on external extension supports D screws M6 x 38 with handwheel, adding washers (Fig. 1). Use a marker with indelible ink to put a mark on the top of each pipe, departing from the end of 75 mm, indicating the maximum extension distance. Now put on the inner supports D on pipes (Fig. 1). Insert the pipes into the appropriate platform openings and secure them with the same handwheel screws, remembering to add washers.

4. Finally, place the platform table on the sawhorses and place the miter saw in the middle. Drill the mounting holes and secure the machine with suitable fasteners. Start new projects, because now you can cut boards conveniently and safely.

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Table for circular saw do it yourself

A circular saw is used to cut wood and plastic. Its cutting base is a flat metal disk with a serrated outer edge. Choosing such a tool, everyone decides for himself what kind he needs: desktop, manual, stationary. Many prefer manual version. However, in some situations it is necessary to fix the saw. In this case, you can make a table for a circular saw with your own hands, having the opportunity, if necessary, to fix the tool.

Preparation of tools and materials

Having decided to make a table for a manual circular saw on your own, you need to take care of the availability of all the materials necessary for work:

• laminated plywood (9 or 11 mm), size 800 mm by 800 mm;
• Chipboard 16 mm or other sheet material suitable for the manufacture of the body, sheet size 400 by 784 mm - 4 pieces;
• bars 40 by 40 mm (length depends on the installation method);
• self-tapping screws;
• bolts.

For such a table, any hand-held circular saw will do. At the same time, it must be remembered that when attached to the table, the depth of cut decreases by 10-20 mm. So saws with small discs are not suitable for such a table.

Step-by-step instructions for assembling a table for a circular saw

1. Manufacturing of the case. sheet material for the body cut to size: 400 mm by 800 mm. Parts are fastened with screws and bars. It is better to assemble by pre-drilling the outer parts of the box. The result is a rectangular box without a bottom and a lid. The upper part of the bars is subsequently used to secure the plywood sheet.

2. Preparing and fixing the plywood top. Hole cut. First, a piece of 800 mm by 80 mm is cut out of a sheet of plywood. Next, measure the support shoe of the saw that will be mounted on the table top. On reverse side plywood markup. You will need 2 center axles. Without them, you cannot perform accurate markup. Then marks are applied to the plywood corresponding to the dimensions of the support shoe. Then they make such measurements that the circular has: the diameter of the lower protective cover, its thickness, the maximum distance from the edges of the support shoe. In accordance with the dimensions obtained, marks are placed and a rectangular hole is cut out with a jigsaw.

3. Fastening the saw to the plywood tabletop. First, 4 holes are made in the shoe. Diameter - 10 mm. Next, install the tool so that the working part goes into the sawn hole. When the saw is leveled, mark the location of the holes. Marks are made in the central part. In order for the tool to stand securely, ploughshare bolts with a countersunk conical head (M8) will be needed for fastening. To install them, you will have to take care of the high-quality deepening of the cap, it can protrude by a maximum of 1 mm in an open form.

Plywood is drilled from the outside, the diameter of the holes obtained should be 8 mm, and then a countersink should be made under the cap. When the holes are ready, the saw itself is installed on the saw table for the circular saw, the bolts are tightened from the inside using nuts with plastic growers or spring washers.

4. Fastening the tabletop to the body. Start button. First, holes are made at a distance of 30 mm in the corners of the plywood tabletop. Then a hole is drilled in the central part of the bars. The parts are connected using a 18 mm M8 steel fitting. On the side part, a regular "Start - start" button is installed. An electrical network is laid inside the case, and the button on the tool itself is clamped.

5. Making a thrust beam. A simple table for a circular saw will become much more convenient if you equip it with a thrust beam. The drawings contain everything the right dimensions. The beam can be made of plywood, and fixed with furniture rails full extension. The resulting beam should slide over the surface at an angle to the cutting plane with a slight gap.

6. An emphasis for longitudinal cuts. It is made from an aluminum cornice. At 150 mm from the edges, holes for the bolts are first drilled, and then 2 lines are drawn from the place where the bolts are attached to the center line. At the intersection and further towards the bolts at a distance of 30 mm, holes of 12 mm are made. Bolts from below are tightened with nuts. And along the drawn lines, cuts are made to the tonic, their width can be seen in the photo.

Information on how to make a table for a circular saw can be viewed in the video. This will help you quickly and easily improve the equipment of your workshop.

Video of making a circular table with your own hands

Nice thermal theme! Quickly warm and reliable! There are also thermal panels made of ceramic concrete that made the office just cool.

I built a house of aerated concrete and am going to sheathe it from the outside with thermal panels. Who already installed them? How are the results? Or is it easier and cheaper to do wet facade although he doesn't.

thanks for detailed instructions! I have an old washing machine lying around in my dacha. It will be necessary to use a motor from it to create an emery machine. Unit

Interesting design decision I'll take note! The only thing that I didn’t like from what I saw in the photo is that such tiles are used as an apron in the kitchen. Pts.

This style reminded me very much of the film The Great Gatsby, in which the interiors of houses and apartments in the 1930s were decorated very luxuriously and pompously. Of course, it was a prerogative.

none wood work not without sawing. A manual circular is not very convenient for my tasks, and I have long had a desire to make a table for a circular. Because My workshop is small, so I needed a small table. I finally made it last week. (“Laziness is the engine of progress” It was necessary to cut for the next wooden product, and without it I didn’t even want to start) It took 4 evenings to make a table with equipment.

The table turned out to be simple, but quite functional.
Table dimensions (W520 x D500 x H230 mm), cross cut sled (W580 x D170 x H 80mm)

stop for ripping.

For the countertop, I managed to find a sheet on the market laminated plywood 9mm. What was very pleasing was that it was sawn off perfectly: all sides are strictly 90 o. I attached a Black & Decker CD601 manual circular to the table top. (1100 W, 5000 rpm, 170mm). The saw can change the depth and angle of the cut.

Having perfectly aligned the saw with one of the edges of the table, I attached it with M4 screws. To do this, I had to drill the iron base of the circular in four places.

In general, any circular is suitable for installation on a table, but if you choose the type of fastening with screws for the base, then it is better to choose a model with iron base. The cast may crack.

There is another popular way to fix the circular to the table without drilling holes in the base - attach it with clamps that fix the base by pressing it to the surface. Only this method seemed to me not true enough in terms of accuracy and reliability of the installation, and I did not use it.

Another important parameter of a manual circular is the ability to connect a vacuum cleaner. If you saw without a vacuum cleaner, fine wood dust rises into the air.

The base was made from 22mm chipboard panels. I chose the dimensions of the base so that you can attach equipment to the edge of the tabletop.

The disc has been sawn to the top side of the table top. Height - 40mm (Bosh wood disc 160mm). The table top reduces the cutting depth by 9 mm. The depth of cut is set on the circular saw itself. It is convenient that the disk can be completely hidden in the table.

UPD: IMPORTANT! On a number of budget circulars, it may turn out that the disk is under an imperceptible slope. And all cuts will be bevelled. Be sure to check with a tool square that the disc is at 90 degrees relative to the table surface. (before installing the saw, you can check the angle relative to the native site. If the disk is not at a right angle and there is no way to set the ideal angle of the site, you can put several strips of tin on one side under the site, achieving the ideal angle (you can use washers for the screws that fasten the saw to the table, but this solution is worse)

To make it more convenient to start the saw, I put the start button (it turned out that this is the most expensive part of my table 🙂)

Inside the table I placed a socket for the saw, which will now turn on with the start button.

To do this, the saw button on the handle was fixed with a coupler in the pressed position.

This is how you can connect a vacuum cleaner to the saw. In general, the table is ready and you can saw. (done in one evening and one morning).

Of course, it is possible to cut without equipment using slats and clamps, but it is inconvenient.

For cross sawing, I made these sleds.

This design, clinging to the edges of the table and aligning with them, can move along saw blade. By pressing the rail against the sled, you can easily cut it exactly at 90 o. Thin pieces of wood can be placed inside the sled.

Evgeny Repin on December, 16, 2014 05:52 (UTC)

The table is good, to be sure. Simple and reliable. I'll be making one for myself. Slides for cross cutting are a must. And by the way, do you have any idea how it is possible to end on a mustache (45 degrees) on this table? A platband, a frame for a photo, but you never know what, where you need, washed it down with a mustache. A miter saw is expensive to buy. I tried cutting along the line manual circular, it seems to work out well, but it takes a lot of time to prepare one cut. So what do you recommend? I will be grateful.

markellov on December, 16, 2014 06:28 (UTC)

The sled helps a lot to quickly cut the slats. What used to be a long and tedious process is now over in a matter of minutes.

If you have a lot of work on sawing at 45 degrees You can make a special sled with an emphasis at 45.

Anton Sidorov on February, 16, 2015 06:32 (UTC)

Thanks for the interesting content!

In your footsteps, I also make a saw table for CD601)
Can you tell me which start button you chose? and then I went to an electrician's store, which confused me with the current, the power of the saw ..

markellov on February, 16, 2015 07:13 (UTC)

Glad it was helpful!

If the model is written on the button, it is most likely on the back side. I can't watch anymore. I bought by asking the seller about the allowable power. because saw 1.1 kW. One and a half kilowatts is enough.

Anton Sidorov on February, 28, 2015 20:08 (UTC)

I bought a post push-button PKE 212-2UZ. Now I don't know how to connect.
Each button has 4 pins.
I found this manual http://ceshka.ru/novosti/kak-podklyuchit-p uskatel
http://forum.woodtools.ru/index.php?topi c=33775.25
but here I understand that the magnetic starter is also used for 380v.
I, as I understand it, do not need it. 220v.

Schematic diagram of PC http://www.kontaktor-m.ru/Catalogue/17/t mp2D-6.gif

Can you draw a diagram of how to connect? As I understand it, contact 1 Start must be connected to contact 3 Stop.

Yasha Kundin on February, 25, 2016 18:57 (UTC)

Very cool and easy to understand, thank you very much!
And may I ask, how are you going to make sure that the side stop for ripping always remains parallel to the blade while moving? I'm wise and wise and I don't understand how to do it.
Share your wisdom, be kind.)))) If you can write in VKontakte, I will be grateful!

markellov on February, 25, 2016 20:35 (UTC)

It would certainly be better to draw, but now there is no strength anymore.
I'll try with words.
Two furniture guides are attached under the table. A U-shaped structure is attached to them, which will extend to the right. A structure with a side stop placed on the table is attached to the U-shaped bar, which moves parallel to the disk. As soon as possible, I will model it in a 3D editor.

Maria Luchko on July, 12, 2016 10:35 (UTC)
4 machines in 1

Circular, edge trimming, milling, groove cutter
https://youtu.be/p1BSp9wpBgE

Edited at 2016-07-12 10:37 (UTC)

29MileEn on August, 1, 2016 10:07 (UTC)

Good afternoon, Vladimir.

I found a site on the net that uses the material of your wonderful article without any link to your original post: http://stanokgid.ru/osnastka/stol-dlya-c irkulyarnoi-pily-svoimi-rukami.html. Some corrections are noticeable, but photos and general style one-on-one.
It seems to me that doing this is petty and lousy, so I decided to report it.
Perhaps you also published this. there is no date or author. If that's the case, well, then it's all right.

markellov on August, 1, 2016 11:10 (UTC)

No, this is not my post. I've come across this many times before. Only illustrations are taken from my post. The article also uses illustrations and videos of other authors. I don't see anything wrong with that, if it helps someone make a tool for themselves. Maybe something is taken from my article, but basically the general steps for creating a table for a circular are described.

My article had the main goal - to help other needlewomen make their own tool. If she helps by giving her pictures to another article that serves the same purpose, I will only be happy. When, publishing my materials, they give me a link - I am grateful. Do not give - I'm not at a loss.

In any case, thank you for your care and attention!

How to make homemade trimming machine(trimming) on ​​wood with their own hands

The design of the trimmer is similar to a circular saw mounted above the work table. Its main advantages are compactness and light weight. Thanks to this, saws are used not only in workshops, but also on construction sites. Unfortunately, handmade tools are quite bulky and heavy. It is convenient to operate them in stationary mode.

The miter saw is designed for the sole purpose of trimming the ends of lumber under different angles. Due to the fact that during cutting the workpiece is stationary on the table, the cut is neat and clean. Masters dealing with woodworking prefer this particular tool. Moreover, do-it-yourself saws have been successfully used for years.

Trimming from a grinder

grinder miter saw

Technical characteristics of trimming with a do-it-yourself broach:

• disk speed - 4500;
• cutting length - 350 mm (much higher than that of a middle-class factory tool).

The tool can be removed from the table and the grinder can be used for its usual purpose.

1. The rotary device of the tool is installed on the axis of rotation car wheel(pin), it is held by a 150 mm ball bearing (if you can find more, it will do).
2. On the outer side of the bearing by welding we fasten the ears for fixing on the base. It is fixed with M6 screws.
3. To protect against chips, the clip is covered with a box.
4. We make a broach from shock absorbers from a truck (broken ones will do). Oil is poured out of them, ventilation holes are drilled, which should be tightened with a mesh from dust and chips.
5. So that at the beginning of work there is no jerk, the saw is supplemented with a module soft start, which slightly reduces the turnover.
6. The last stage of work is the manufacture of protection for the disk.

• very noisy;
• to adjust the accuracy of wood cuts, trimming bars are used, after which the thrust is fixed rigidly and you can work clean.

Trimming from various scrap metal

trimming frame made of metal

This is a rather heavy trimming on a stationary metal table. It takes some effort to manage it. But in the end, the saw mechanism moves smoothly, without jerks, do-it-yourself trimming is easy.

• electric motor power - 2.2 kW;
• disk speed - 2800;
• cutting depth 80 mm.

Materials and tools required for assembly:

• 900 W electric motor;
• a metal sheet;
• metal corner;
• channel;
• hinge group;
• powerful spring;
• Bulgarian;
• welding machine;
• file.

The bed is made of adjustable supports, a metal corner and racks from an old bed. The working surface is a metal sheet like the surface of a table, in which we cut a hole, we process the edges with a file with our own hands.

• The pendulum saw stand is welded from a channel mounted on a sheet of metal, its height is about 80 cm.
• The stand for the electric motor is made in the form of a movable metal plate mounted on hinges. When mounting an electric motor, a spring is used as a stabilizer. Then you can do without a pendulum and belts.
• Tension belts are regulated by a conventional folding bolt, the pendulum for the mechanism is also made of metal.
• As an executive tool, a disk with a diameter of 420 mm is installed on the trimming.

A miter saw is a rather dangerous equipment, assembling it with your own hands, you need to take care of the protective boxes and casings. After all, errors in work homemade equipment much more than factory.

Advantages and disadvantages of homemade crosscuts

• Making your own tools saves money. For example, about 500 rubles were spent on finalizing the grinder. Price homemade table and the saw mechanism is available to most craftsmen;
• basic parameters: cutting depth, rotational speed, disc diameter, engine power, table dimensions, are selected according to their own needs;
• having assembled the tool with his own hands, the master will easily find the cause of the problem and eliminate it.

• The service life of the tool depends on the quality of the raw materials, and homemade products are usually assembled from all sorts of rubbish;
• trimming homemade are rarely powerful enough. Indeed, for the high-quality operation of the equipment, a careful selection of parts is necessary;
• sometimes the money saved on the purchase of a factory tool is spent on repairing and refining a home-made one;
• craftsmen often save on their safety by not equipping the table and saw with protective devices;
• Factory saws are equipped with a graduated scale that accurately indicates the angle of the cut in the tree. On home device it is difficult to construct such a mechanism.

A few more convenient interesting homemade, among which is an excellent stationary, mobile and made in a couple of minutes from several plywood and screws.

A miter (end) saw is made by many power tool companies. It is used in everyday life and by professionals. Therefore, the device has many varieties that differ in functionality, dimensions, power and price. Each buyer, when choosing a tool, is guided by his needs and capabilities. Someone needs trimming for infrequent use. For example, for repairs in an apartment or the manufacture of doors and windows made of wood in the country. And someone uses a saw every day at work. Based on these requirements, a tool is selected for domestic or professional needs.

Appointment and use of miter saws

To manually cut the material at an angle, and even evenly, you need to make a lot of effort and use special tools. To facilitate this process, electric miter saws were invented. They make it possible to cut workpieces precisely at the required angle and inclination. That is, you can change the angle both in the horizontal plane and in the vertical one. The tool has found application among assemblers, carpenters and finishers. Miter saws are used in the production of furniture, doors, skirting boards, windows, laying floors and much more. The tool can cut not only wood, but also plastic and metal corners and pipes.

It is convenient, easy and fast to work with a miter saw.

Video: miter saw at work

Tool device

The main elements of a miter saw:

1. Saw blade with protective cover.
2. Handle with start button.
3. Engine.
4. Longitudinal stop.
5. Bed.
6. Ruler.

Types of miter saws, what are their differences

All miter saws are divided into two types:

Miter saws are:

• household. The materials from which they are made are not strong enough. Therefore, such devices are not suitable for everyday long-term use;
• professional. They have improved specifications and more functionality. They can work hard every day.

Main selection criteria

Before you go to the store and consult with sellers, check out the parameters that you should rely on when buying a tool. And then you can rationally make your choice.

• power. Affects performance and speed. With its increase, the weight and cost of the tool increases. Household trimmers consume less energy than professional ones;
• disk size. It depends on the depth and speed of the cut. Also find out if there are free replacement discs for the selected tool model;
• cutting parameters. Angle, width and depth. The saw should cut the workpiece at the required angle for your purposes, preferably in both directions. The manufacturer also indicates the maximum depth of cut when working at an angle of 45 and 90 degrees to the surface. The function of limiting the depth of cut is important. It is used when grooving and processing workpieces in thickness;
• horizontal stretching. Allows you to increase the width of the cut by moving the cutting part in a horizontal plane. In one pass, you can cut a fairly wide workpiece.
• number of revolutions per minute. Affects the cleanliness of the cut and makes it possible to work with hard materials. The number of revolutions of 4000 or more is a very good indicator.
• engine's type:
  • collector. It is necessary to check the anchor regularly, but such an engine has more torque;
  • asynchronous. Runs quieter and lasts longer
• transmission type:
  • serrated. No slippage under heavy loads;
  • belt. It makes less noise and dampens vibration, but the belt breaks more often than the gear teeth wear out;
  • straight. There is no gearbox, fewer rubbing parts, but lower torque;
• rotary system design. She must:
  
• security systems. The miter saw must have components that ensure safe use:
  

Reviews

Miter saw Metabo KS 216 M Lasercut 1350 W

Chose between Makita. Metaba has a more comfortable working pen and a laser. True, it is necessary to adapt to the laser, but it is tuned exactly. I put a clean disk on aluminum, sawing them and pieces of wood.
Satisfied, I recommend.

Sakharov Sergey

https://market.yandex.ru/product/10575824/reviews?hid=91657&track=tabs

Trimming Makita saw LS0714 1010 W

The device is made of very high quality, there are no backlashes. did not regret a single ruble. it is transported without any problems in a passenger car, you can carry it in one hand. I saw her: laminate, platbands, door frames, lining, plastic, plinth, moldings copes with everything with a bang if only there was a table on top

Popov Vasily

https://market.yandex.ru/product/1626905/reviews?hid=91657&track=tabs

Miter saw DeWALT DW713 1600 W

A decent saw for the cost of 12300r, I took it at a discount. I chose between Boschs, but settled on this model. It’s just that in boshes more often the price rises due to the accessories included in them (clamp, rod supporting long parts, laser sight), I like the weight, it’s average, I won’t say it’s light, so it seems to me that this device easy and should not be, inspires confidence. Made very soundly, I really liked the adjustment at angles, easy and without any torsion there, like competitors. Big working surface. I was chasing a model with backlight, and I'll tell you it was worth it! The first day I worked late on the street, so I practically did not make additional lighting for myself, because. the cut line was always visible! I recommend the XPS.
Just a wonderful native drive with big teeth! I immediately bought myself a Bosch disk, for a clean cut of laminate rolled up in plastic, and so he lost under a clean native! (I had to use it only for cutting aluminum, which it did just fine).

Rozhkov Evgeny

https://market.yandex.ru/product/2433397/reviews?hid=91657&track=tabs

Miter saw Makita LS1018L with a power of 1430 W

It smells a lot of cheap Chinese, but I bought it at Makita-online with discounts for 26 tr (sanctions, damn it). Visually - low workmanship of the aluminum body of the broach mechanism (cast, processed with a LARGE file and painted, the paint does not hold well, peels off on a new tool). Rotary table smooth, milled, but where it is painted - the same story. 0 and corners are not set, as well as the laser (I had to do it myself, I lost 15 minutes). The angle scales are PRINTED AND GLUE, just like on the riobe. some of the sticker is removed from the new one, out of the box. Not compact - it takes up more than a meter (1080mm) of space in the transport state.

Vladimirovich Andrey

https://market.yandex.ru/product/7306437/reviews?hid=91657&track=tabs

Miter saw ZUBR ZPT-255–1800 PLR with a power of 1800 W

This is my first experience with such a tool.
I set the corners in 5 minutes using an ordinary square (on the forums they scare that you have to level the guides in inexpensive models almost with a file). And then the work went on.
The purchase is quite satisfied. If not for the laser, there would be 5 ...

Ivanov Oleg

https://market.yandex.ru/product/14178347/reviews?hid=91657&track=tabs

Tool setting and adjustment

Absolutely any saw needs to be pre-configured, regardless of the brand and model. It's like the first Maintenance. The main thing that is required from the saw is the accuracy of the angle at an angle and with a turn. Any saw can be modified, improved and upgraded. Remove all attachments and extensions, such as clamps, from the tool. You will need a scalpel or a small knife with a rigid blade. Casting is accompanied by the formation of flash, which must be cut off if it interferes with maintenance.

Side stop

1. Raise the saw blade. Remove the side stand.
2. In some saws it does not have right angle with a bed. The stop is in contact with the base at two points. The bases of these points must be vertical to the surface. If there is no right angle due to uneven paint or burr, sand base surfaces. Cut off the burr first, if there is one.
3. Perform grinding on disk machine or at sandpaper. Put it on the table and grind the stop with longitudinal movements.
4. Make a small chamfer at the points of contact with the base. So that shavings that inevitably arise during sawing are hidden here. This is necessary so that the chips do not interfere with the formation desired angle cut.
5. Set the stop in place. The fixing holes of the stop are made oblong for regulation. When installed, it can be moved back and forth and rotated.

Turn fixation unit

Miter saws have two types of limbs. On one ruler - a removable element. On the other, it is not dismantled, and the limb itself has slots for frequently used angles.

The rod for fixing has a conical sharpening and does not enter completely into the slots of the limb.

How to fix an arbitrary angle

There are situations when you need to set an angle that differs by 1–2 degrees from a fixed value. When setting such an angle, a breakdown occurs and a value is fixed that we do not need. To prevent this from happening, you need to tighten the lock knob while pressing the key.

Setting an angle of 90 degrees in the horizontal plane

Most often, users apply a square to the disk and base. This is the wrong way for three reasons:

• when mounting the tooling, debris could get in and the tooling was installed unevenly;
• the disk itself was deformed;
• when we apply a corner to the rig, a light load is enough to make the disc wobble a little.

Prepare a piece of plywood, a thin rail, a 10 mm thick rail and double-sided tape.

Exposing other angles

Setting for bevel cutting

Video: setting up a miter saw

Possible malfunctions and repairs

Let's take a look at some common problems.

Divergence of surfaces in the side stop

The surfaces of the side stop converge at some angle or are located in different planes. This greatly affects the accuracy of sawing. When sawing on the right or left, a different result is obtained.

Loss of sawing accuracy

It is necessary to identify a curved element: a disk or a flange. This operation cannot be performed by starting the engine from the mains. Firstly, you risk serious injury, and secondly, this method does not work when the engine is running.

1. Turn off the saw. Raise the protective cover.
2. Take a marker and place it on the side of the disk. Keep the marker straight. Rotate the disk to a full turn.
3. Lock the spindle and loosen the disk. Rotate 180 degrees. Tighten it.
4. Take a marker of a different color and repeat drawing the circle next to the previous one.
5. See where the half rings are located. If they are on the same part of the disc, then it is crooked. Replace the drive with a new one. If the half rings are on opposite sides, then the problem is with the flange.
6. Remove disc and flange. The flange is a support washer that is mounted on the shaft along with the disk. The ground and landing planes must be parallel. The reference area is formed by turning.
7. With the disc and flange removed, the saw is completely safe. Run it from the network.
8. Take a simple pencil and touch the surface to see if there is any beating. Do not do this with a metal object, as this will violate the accuracy of the surface treatment. If there is a runout, then you need to change the shaft.
9. If there is no runout, then put the flange and screw it on. Take a simple pencil again, start the saw and touch the flange. If runout is present, the flange must be machined.
10. To do this, take a bar and a nail file. Fasten the bar with a clamp inside the casing. He will be a support. Start the engine and stick the saw blade into the bar a little further from the flange. Gradually bring the file to the flange. This must be done carefully so that the nail file removes a small amount of metal. Bring the file not with a plane, but with a curved part and start from the center to the periphery. This task is long and tedious, but it works 100%.

Engine and gearbox repair

The following factors indicate the presence of breakdowns in the engine or gearbox:

• the disk is not spinning, but the engine is running;
• the smell of burning;
• sparking in the engine area;
• the saw does not gain power;
• the tool is unstable.

If at least one of these signs is present, proceed with the analysis.

How to make an electric miter saw with your own hands

Miter saw can be made different ways. Consider options with a grinder and a manual circular.

From Bulgarian

1. Remove the disk and additional handle from the grinder. Cut a sheet for the bed from a wooden or metal sheet. Metal is more suitable for a grinder. Weld a 30 * 30 mm pipe on both sides. Make an extension for the bed of the same width. Weld a 25 * 25 mm pipe to it and insert it into the first pipe.
2. Take the legs washing machine. Attach two nuts to them. One is small, the other is long. To adjust the height of the legs. Weld the legs at the corners of the bed.
3. On the gearbox housing of the grinder, make metal fasteners.
4. Assemble the swivel assembly from bicycle scrap metal.
5. Weld it with one end to the frame, and the other to the grinder.
6. Put a spring on the swivel assembly that tightens the pads. And a stopper so that the grinder does not fall back.

   Workbench under the saw: marking the drawing, installing trimming

   1. Make a stable table from a metal frame with a 40–50 mm thick top.
   2. From the edge or in the middle, measure the area that the saw will occupy. In free space, set the platform as high as the base of the saw.
   3. Make fasteners in the area under the saw
   4. Install the trim on the table and screw it on. On the platform, draw a line that will continue the side stop of the saw.
   5. Install and screw the square profile along this line.
   6. Set a ruler on the profile.

   Buy a miter saw according to your needs. Do not neglect its setting. This process is very precise and delicate. Approach him responsibly. Then you get a workable and durable tool.

Table For miter saw do it yourself (part 3/3) Miter Saw Station

Published: six Apr. Do-it-yourself table for a manual circular saw: practical advice for manufacturing. Table for a manual circular saw with your own hands. Do-it-yourself guide ruler for a circular saw. Two thousand sixteen
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The final part on the table for the miter saw. Do-it-yourself table for a manual circular saw before making a table for a saw. Table for a circular saw with your own hands. Table for a circular saw with your own hands. How to make a table Made lateral stops protective screen made of plexiglass, led electricity to the saw.
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