DIY plywood boat drawing. Homemade plywood boats. DIY boat: drawings. Features of wooden “boat work”

A boat on the farm may be needed not only for fishing, hunting or recreation on the water. In sparsely populated regions with a developed network waterways a boat is a basic necessity, and in residential areas the production and rental of watercraft is a profitable business. Everyone knows how boatmen make money at resorts. However, in trade classifiers, small vessels are not classified as goods whose pricing is subject to regulation. Therefore, the question: is this possible at all, and how to make a boat with your own hands is quite popular. The answer to the first question is clear: yes, and much simpler than is commonly believed. A good, roomy, reliable and seaworthy boat can be made away from the water without a boathouse or slipway, in any room of suitable size. And how - there is this article about this.

In the preparation of materials for this publication, the books “300 tips on boats, boats and motors” were of great help. Compiled and scientific editor G. M. Novak L. Shipbuilding 1974, “Boats, boats and motors in questions and answers” ​​Handbook ed. G. M. Novak. L. Shipbuilding 1977 and “Kurbatov D. A. 15 projects of ships for amateur construction” L. Shipbuilding 1986. The author expresses deep gratitude to the authors of these informative manuals. Further in the hints for the illustrations they are designated “H74”, “H77” and “K.”, respectively. As for the years of publication, have the waters and winds changed since then? Today's ships are built and sail according to the same laws, only modern materials and computer technology allow them to be used more fully.

Organizational issues

The reader probably already has some questions: is it really that simple? Build it and float? With your wife, kids, passengers, at sea in a storm? Depending on the circumstances, you may need a wake on your rigid hull boat. documents and supplies:

1. A boat just for yourself, a small non-navigable body of water - sales receipts for the materials used in case you need to prove that they were not stolen. A small body of water is considered to be a body of water in which the distance from the shore is possible no more than 500 m, and the boat is only for one person;
2. A boat for yourself, a navigable body of water of any size - additionally a certificate of the right to operate a small boat (analogous to a license for motor vehicles) and a certificate of its registration. Both are issued by local transport (water) inspection authorities. There must be a sign on the side of the boat registration number in the prescribed form;
3. The same as in paragraphs. 1 and 2, the boat can have free passengers - except for the documents under paragraphs. 1 and 2 also a life jacket for each person on board and a mandatory minimum set of supplies, see below;
4. Everything is the same, but passengers or cargo are paid - additionally a license for the right to transport passengers or cargo by water;
5. Everything according to paragraphs. 1-4, sailing boat or sail-motor boat, incl. with a complete emergency sail - in addition, a yacht helmsman’s certificate or other certificate for the right to operate a sailing vessel;
6. The boat was made for sale, not serial - a license for the right to produce small watercraft.

It must be said that on non-navigable water bodies, violations under paragraphs. 1-3 are widespread, and in sparsely populated areas - endemic. The water inspection has neither the legal nor the organizational and technical capabilities to get there. Therefore, claims against the owner of the vessel arise or criminal prosecution begins only after the consequences of the accident.

What's a yes and a no?

There are countless designs of small vessels, but for a novice amateur when choosing a prototype need to be guided by the following. considerations that a homemade boat must satisfy:

1. The boat must be built according to a proven design and/or with full consideration of the vital provisions of the theory of the ship, the rules of shipbuilding and navigation, see below;
2. The boat must be reliable, i.e. strong, durable, stable, spacious in weight and volume, sufficiently seaworthy for the given sailing conditions and at the same time controllable in waves, currents in a river and in a shallow overgrown reservoir;
3. The boat must be light enough so that the owner can pull it ashore or launch it alone, and load it for transportation with an adult and moderately developed assistant;
4. The technology for building a boat should not include operations that require special qualifications or production equipment, but should forgive the mistakes of a beginner and the replacement of standard materials and manufacturing methods available in the given circumstances;
5. It is desirable that the boat can move well and stay on the wave with oars, under a motor and sail - to save fuel and have a complete beneficial rest;
6. The costs of building a boat should be minimal;
7. If the boat is stored away from a body of water, it is highly desirable that it meets the requirements for cartop vessels, i.e. allowed transportation on the top rack passenger car.

For the entire set of qualities, except for the price of materials, optimal choice for my first vessel I will have a plywood boat. The boardwalk will cost approx. half the price, but it will be the same number of times heavier and will last much less, except for the option with a thin-walled steel bottom, see below. Homemade fiberglass boats are expensive and difficult to build, although they are reliable and durable. Taking into account all these conditions, the following are not considered further:

• All-metal welded and riveted boats.
• Planing ships.
• Small pleasure catamarans.
• Foam boats, plastic bottles, pontoon boats and planks of rectangular shape, etc. exotic.
• Inflatable boat.

The reasons for this “truncation” are as follows. All-metal homemade vessels are not inspected or registered by transport inspection bodies due to the fact that it is technically impossible to ensure their proper reliability in makeshift conditions.

Building a speedboat is not for a beginner. The standard dynamic loads on the planing hull are high, and you can take it on after making sure that your first boat still floats well. Although, I must say, with some experience, at home it is quite possible to build a cartop boat that goes on planing on a small wave with an engine of only 3.5-6 hp, see for example. track. video.

Video: an example of a homemade planing boat and its testing

A small catamaran, let the reader know, is easier to build than a boat of equal capacity, and the restrictions on the choice of materials for it are softer; for example, polystyrene foam can be widely used. On the catamaran bridge (the platform connecting the float hulls) you can stand, walk, tumble as you please, you can put up a tent there and even cook a barbecue. However, a catamaran is not a boat and the issue of homemade catamarans requires separate consideration.

Exotic boats made from scrap materials are simply dangerous. For example, a monohull boat made of foam plastic will turn out to be either something extremely fragile, suitable for swimming only in a fenced “paddling pool”, or an almost uncontrollable raft, highly susceptible to drift by current or wind.

Concerning inflatable boats, then the enthusiasm for them is explained, in addition to the possibility of carrying on oneself, by the fact that in order to register a purchased rubber boat on a navigable body of water, it is enough to present a manufacturer’s certificate, and even then the water inspection turns a blind eye to it. However, this in no way applies to homemade inflatable boats.

At the same time, it is enough to look at the patterns of a simple inflatable boat (see Fig.) to be convinced: properly gluing its seams in artisanal conditions is much more difficult than building a more spacious and reliable boat with a rigid hull, and quality materials for a soft plastic boat will cost much more than the best plywood and epoxy glue.

But the most important thing: without special equipment, it is generally impossible to reliably (without the possibility of inspection) glue safety bulkheads into the cylinder. A homemade “elastic band” will be single-cylinder: suddenly there is a hole, and you are not wearing a life jacket, it is far from the shore, or the pond is very overgrown - you will only have to mentally take stock of your life. For its end is near.

Note: if you absolutely want to glue your boat, not build it, then it’s better to make it from... scraps water pipes. Such a boat cannot be blown away and hidden in a backpack, but it will be unsinkable. How to make a boat from PVC pipes, see the video below.

Video: example of a homemade boat made from PVC pipes

Which one should I do?

There are also many designs of plywood and plank boats that do not require production conditions for construction; People have been swimming since time immemorial. Let's try to decide how a novice shipbuilder/navigator can navigate this diversity. For example, boats such as a canoe (item 1 in the figure), kayak, canoes or domestic boats are very fast, very seaworthy and at the same time are not afraid of overgrown shallow waters. However, managing them requires not just experience, but great art. In terms of the number of drownings among beginners, canoe-type boats are firmly in the top ranking among small boats. In addition, such boats with a rigid skin are technologically complex, because their contours are double curvature.

The Russian fofan boat (pos. 2) is no less legendary in its reliability than the American dory (see below), but it is very stable, roomy, and can be driven by a green newbie. The twisted contours in the bow make the fofan well able to ride waves when fully loaded, and together with the “pot-bellied” hull, gentle contours in the stern and a recessed transom, it is capable of traveling quite quickly, up to 20 km/h or more, under a fairly powerful engine in transitional (semi-planing) conditions. ) mode. But, as we see, the contours of the fofan are also doubly curved, and it is heavy: to move the fofan, you need at least 2-3 strong men.

The Russian tuzik pleasure-fishing boat (item 3; Russian because there is also an American dinghi tuzik boat, see below) is light, but again with double-curvature contours. The same applies to the sea sailing boat, pos. 5, although under sail she stays steadily on course on a 4-point wave, and it is possible to pull her ashore alone.

Bend once!

So, we have decided on one more requirement for a homemade plywood boat: its contours must be single curvature, i.e. The surfaces forming the body must be curved planes. For small, quiet inland waters, the optimal choice would be a skiff-type punt boat, pos. 5. Scythians in such conditions have proven themselves to be the most reliable ships. In addition, skiff boats are cheap, easy to build, and lightweight: a 4-meter skiff with a galvanized bottom can be lifted and loaded by one person. An additional advantage for these sailing conditions is that the skiffs handle well in currents and in overgrown reservoirs. There is simply nothing for water or algae to grab onto.

Note: Contrary to popular belief, a skiff boat can sail perfectly, see below. But - only on calm water! In rough weather, the skiff, like any shallow-draft punt, becomes dangerous - the wave hits the bottom, knocking the ship off course and trying to capsize.

In slightly more difficult sailing conditions, with waves up to 2-3 points, a dinghy boat will be optimal. In appearance, dinghies can be easily recognized by the bow transom-forestpigel and the keeled (as they say, having a transverse V) bottom, pos. 6. The latter makes it easier for the dinghy to ride the wave, and the forespire makes the ratio of capacity to overall dimensions and the dinghy’s own weight is almost a record. Thanks to this, the dinghi is the most popular weekend boat among residents of places remote from the water: a 2-3-seater dinghi on the top trunk fits into the dimensions of a passenger car, and can weigh less than 50 kg. Technologically, a dinghy is even simpler than a skiff - it can be assembled by sewing plywood (see below) simply on the floor of an apartment.

The sailing dinghy (item 7) is quite safe, but very nimble, and is therefore an excellent vessel for initial sailing training. Once you have learned how to control one, you can safely move on to the tiller/wheel and sheets of a large yacht. In the USSR, “Goldfish” dinghies were widely used to train teenage cadets in yacht clubs.

Note: in coastal areas you can often find seaworthy, sharp-nosed dingas. Outwardly, they look like a fofan compressed along its length (pos. 8), but in fact the hydrodynamics and mechanics of their hull are almost the same as those of a dinghy with a forespigel.

Finally, if you live by the sea or a large inland lake, know big water and want to finally build a boat for it with your own hands, then the choice should be a dory. Dory boats are truly ocean-going. Newfoundland fishermen have caught and continue to catch fish with them 280 and even 400 km from the coast. The seaworthiness and reliability of the dory are phenomenal: there are many cases where large, reliable ships were wrecked in a severe storm, and the dory then returned home safely in the same waters.

Dory boats are known in 2 modifications: purely rowing and sailing (pos. 9). To drive a bank dory, you need to be a thoroughly salted sailor since childhood, because... their static stability is low. A sailing dory is not so capricious; a beginner who knows the basics of how a vessel moves under sail can learn to sail it. In addition, it is possible to install a motor in a well on a sailing dory. Equipping a boat with a motor well is, of course, more difficult than strengthening the transom for the motor (see below), but the motor and propeller will be better protected from damage, and repairing the motor on the water will be possible without fear of drowning a part or tool.

Basic truths

To make a boat correctly, you need to choose a technically competent design suitable for the given sailing conditions and available resources. To choose a project, you need to know at least the very basics of ship theory, small shipbuilding, navigation and maritime practice on small ships. So let's start with theory.

Sales rate

The performance of a displacement vessel is determined by the Froude number Fr. Physically, it means that with an increase in Fr, the length of the bow wave of the ship increases rapidly, see figure:

Wherein most of engine power or sail thrust is spent on maintaining it. The engine goes into “fuel guzzling” mode, at the same time quickly burning out its resource, and the sail, as a rule, is not capable of pulling the ship to Fr>0.3. Hence the important conclusion: do not try to increase the speed of the boat by installing an overly powerful motor on it. You will only make sailing more dangerous and waste your money on fuel. If the boat design does not indicate the recommended motor power, it can be determined from the table. on the trail. rice.

Moving at a value of Fr that is too high for a given hull is also dangerous: the boat may seem to be hanging on the crests of neighboring waves, or it will tend to slide back from the bow wave and bury its stern in the water. If, frightened by a wave rising in front of the bow, you sharply release the gas, the boat will be flooded from the stern by the next wave coming in: once formed, the waves move according to their own laws.

The energy consumption of the ship's propulsion for wave formation depends not only on the length, but also on the height of the waves generated. It can be reduced, firstly, by increasing the ratio of the length of the vessel to its width (the “length runs” rule), but at the same time its lateral stability and controllability are reduced. Secondly, the rational construction of the hull contours: its formation along the frames (see below) should be as flat as possible. Thirdly, with overlapping skin (see items 2 and 4 in the figure with types of boats). The ribs of the skin belts turbulize the boundary layer of water, preventing the bow wave from swelling too much. This, by the way, is one of the secrets of the excellent performance of the Viking warships, drakkars and augers. Unfortunately, the sheathing is technologically complex, susceptible to water leakage and therefore requires regular inspection and maintenance.

Stability

The stability of the vessel is distinguished between static (while stationary) and dynamic while underway. The stability of the vessel is determined by the interaction of the capsizing moment, the force of which is applied to the center of gravity, and the restoring moment, the force of which is applied to the center of buoyancy C - the geometric center of the submerged part of the vessel.

The amount of stability is determined by the elevation of the metacenter M above the center of gravity G (see figure). A ship with a large excess of M over G will be very stable, but also very rolly, with a sharp roll, i.e. overly stable. With a continuous increase in the roll angle Θ, the metacenter first “runs away” upward from the center of gravity and then moves back. When M is below G, the capsizing moment will exceed the righting moment and the ship will capsize. Resp. the angle Θ for decked ships is called the angle of decline. The critical list for undecked ships will be that at which the ship draws broadside. Then Θ is called the flood angle.

Stability rules are subject to the square-cube law. For small ships, this is, on the one hand, bad, because a small vessel turns out to be less stable than a large one of the same proportions. If a 5-meter boat sails with a critical list, then the list of a 20-meter schooner in the same wind will not be dangerous, and a 70-meter barque is almost invisible. When in the old days captains of sailing ships, trying to escape from a storm, ordered to “set sails as long as the masts can bear,” they knew what they were doing. But, on the other hand, for the same reason, the dynamic stability of a more or less regular small displacement vessel will be greater than the static one. In order for a boat, stable when parked, to capsize while moving, its designer will have to try very hard in the opposite sense.

Controllability

It is wrong to think that the ship turns by shifting the rudder. The ship turns the oncoming flow of water slanting towards its bow, and the rudder only helps it to stand under it, see fig. on right. There, however, with all due respect to the author of the original source, an inaccuracy crept in: what is designated as the center of gravity of the CG is actually a projection of the center of rotation of the CG vessel onto the main plane (see below). From here there is also an important conclusion: if the boat is poorly controlled, do not sin on the rudder feather being too small. His optimal area– approx. 3% of the cross-sectional area of ​​the hull amidships, i.e. across at the widest part. Check and, if it does, then either you did something wrong, or you chose an unimportant project.

The position of the CV is determined by the interaction of the moments of forces applied to the CG and C already horizontally. In a perfectly controlled ship without heeling, the CG is located exactly above C, which is what designers strive for. Hence another important conclusion: do not get carried away with the roll. Romantic, but also dangerous, because... The ship's controllability decreases, which increases the risk of capsizing.

Sailing

Yachtsmen sometimes say: a sailing yacht is an airplane, one wing of which is in the air and the other in the water. In general this is correct. For diagrams explaining the principles of vessel movement under an oblique sail, see Fig. From there it is clear why you can sail against the wind. The first thing that is important here is that the CP and the CB are greatly spaced vertically, which creates a significant heeling moment. Hence the conclusion: if the design of the boat does not provide for sailing equipment, do not install a “homemade boat”. IN as a last resort and under completely favorable circumstances it is possible to construct an emergency sprint sail from a pair of oars and a cover or clothing. For example, the engine died, it’s a long way to the shore, you’re exhausted from rowing, but the wind is weak and the waves are insignificant.

The interaction of the thrust forces of the sail and the lateral resistance of a properly designed vessel also creates a moment that tends to bring it towards the wind, i.e. turn your nose directly into the wind. On the one hand, this is good, because if the ship turns out to be uncontrollable, it will take the wave on its bow, which is the least dangerous. But on the other hand, if the CPU moves too far ahead of the central steering system, the ship will become difficult to control or even uncontrollable: it will begin to drift towards the wind, no matter how you turn the tiller; It's not far from here to trouble.

The matter is complicated by the fact that when the course changes relative to the wind, both the CP and the central axis shift. If the CPU ends up behind the central station, the ship will begin to fall into the wind (“wants” to become its stern), which threatens disaster. Hence the most important conclusion: do not experiment with sails without proper knowledge of seamanship! You risk making an “overkill turn” in light winds on calm water!

So that a vessel without a large deadrise of the bottom and lines specially designed for sails can carry sailing rigs, lifting keels are used - centerboards - placed in centerboard wells, see fig. on right. If the project has a sail, but no centerboard drawings, we reject it, ignorant. Then, some amateurs try to adapt a flat-bottomed boat for sail by stuffing false keels and longitudinal steps from boards on the bottom, incorrectly called bottom stringers (which are actually parts of the hull). Technically, this is the same as cutting the wings off an airplane or trying to fit them, the tail, and the jet engine onto a bus.

Outlines and drawings

The main dimensions and characteristics of the vessel are given in pos. 1 Fig., and on pos. 2 – the main planes of his theoretical drawing. The midsection plane is indicated by a special squiggle icon. Pos. 3 shows how the theoretical drawing is constructed. Sectioning with diagonals and constructing fish are used in drawings of fairly large ships, carried out on a small scale, to verify the coincidence of lines. On theoretical drawings of small ships, instead of fish, they often give drill lines along the frames, see below.

Just by looking at the theoretical drawing you can estimate at what Froude numbers a given vessel can sail. For example, a boat at pos. 5 – semi-planing. Next you need to check the coincidence of the drawing lines:

• The distances from the DP to the overhead line waterlines on the half-latitude projection must coincide with the distances from the DP to the frame lines on the hull projection, respectively. levels from OP. Taking into account the scale, because the body projection required for constructing patterns and frame templates is most often given on an enlarged scale (see item 4).
• The distances from the OP to the buttocks must be equal to the distances from the OP to the lines of the frames and waterlines on the same cutting plane parallel to the DP, also taking into account the scale.

Next, you should evaluate the performance of the vessel: using the trapezoidal method, the cross-sectional areas of the underwater part are determined by frames and segments, respectively. lengths are laid out along the vertical axis, see fig. The distance between the segments (on the same scale) is one spacing, i.e. distance between sections along frames. The envelope of segments, the so-called. marching along the frames, should form a semi-contour of some streamlined body.

The formation of a formation along frames is similar to the application of the area rule in aviation. But, firstly, in incompressible water its effect affects any speeds, and not transonic ones. Secondly, the ship’s hull is only partially immersed in water and therefore excites gravitational waves rather than pressure waves in motion. Therefore, the formation along the frames should look like half of not a drop, but an ogive-shaped body, like an artillery shell. The flatter the line along the frames, the more efficient the ship will be, and a wide line indicates its good handling. The “tail” at the back indicates the ability to walk at significant Froude numbers, and the “beak” at the front indicates good ability to ride waves, but at the same time a tendency to yaw.

Note: In addition to the frames, the true contour of the inclined transom is built according to the theoretical drawing, see figure:

Materials

Wood and plywood

Basic construction materials for a boat require some pre-processing. To make a wooden boat last as long as possible, wood materials First you need to soak it generously with a water-soluble antiseptic (biocide) for wood. It won't be oily, it won't be exposed to air!

Plywood, incl. waterproof, impregnated in several stages with intermediate drying to avoid delamination. In the latter, only the glue is waterproof, and the wood veneer is as is. Next, in order to fix the biocide and reduce the swelling of the wood, the material is impregnated in the same way 2-3 times with a water-polymer emulsion. Unless otherwise specified in the project, the thickness of plywood for the sides of a boat up to 4 m long should be taken from 4 mm, for the bottom from 6 mm and for the transom from 12 mm; boards, depending on the type and quality of the wood, are three to four times more. The method of correct gluing of wooden parts and the permissible bending radii of the boards are given in Fig. higher. They are different from construction ones!

Plywood sheets larger than 1550 mm are difficult to find, so they are glued into strips in advance required length miter connection, see fig. It is impossible to learn how to accurately and accurately cut plywood from descriptions, so practice on scraps. We can only advise you to rough out the mustache with a plane, and finish it with a grinder or a smooth block wrapped in sandpaper. Glue the sheets with epoxy glue. The quality of the fastening is checked next. way:

• Cut a strip approx. wide. 10 cm. This is almost always possible, because Curvilinear details will be cut out.
• The strip is brought into a ring and pulled together until the plywood bursts.
• If the joint is of high quality, the plywood should crack anywhere except it.

Stacked boat hulls are assembled using red copper nails (you need to drill holes for them), galvanized or conical screws. Red copper nails are bitten and riveted into washers; galvanized ones are bent. Holes are drilled for the screws; their dimensions, methods of working with nails and fastening tables, see Fig.

Note: V Lately Quite a lot of amateurs assemble boats using confirmed furniture screws, using the same technological techniques as when assembling cabinet furniture - cabinets, kitchen corners, etc. For now, these boats are floating, but not for long enough to judge their long-term reliability.

Fiberglass

Fiberglass glued with epoxy glue is widely used in small shipbuilding. But there are a lot of complaints about it: they say, I didn’t swim until the fall - it started leaking. The reason is the wax that is used to coat the fiberglass before it is spun and woven. Paraffin from fiberglass is removed by boiling in water. You can’t burn it, the fabric will become fragile! Boil the fiberglass cloth in a clean container for at least half an hour, then allow the container and contents to cool completely, remove the paraffin crust from the surface of the water, and only then remove the fiberglass cloth.

Techniques for working with fiberglass on fiberglass and wood are shown in Fig. Gluing set parts made of extruded polystyrene foam EPS – effective method increase the rigidity of a wooden hull, slightly increasing its weight, and assembling a plywood boat by sewing with epoxy glue is technologically simple and produces a completely reliable vessel. Staples are made from copper wire diameter 2-3 mm; the pitch of pairs of holes for them is 40-60 mm. Looking ahead, the technology for sewing boats from plywood on epoxy is as follows:

1. Cut out parts without allowance;
2. The edges are planed to form a wedge-shaped profile joint with a width of 1.5-2 mm at the base;
3. If the bottom is keeled, staple its parts together, place the blank on keel blocks (see below) and sew on the sides. The flat bottom is immediately placed on the trestles, the sides are sewn on;
4. Align the body along the contours (also see below) and fill the seams with glue from the inside;
5. After the glue has hardened, the seams are also sealed from the inside with 3 layers of fiberglass (see figure above). There is no need to remove the staples: firstly, the seam with them will be stronger, and secondly, the putty holes from the staples are a potential source of water leakage;
6. When the last sizing has hardened, the transoms (transom) are glued in the same way;
7. Remove the body from the keel blocks (traces), bite the brackets flush from the outside and cover the seams on the outside with 3 layers of fiberglass;
8. They glue into the hull the frames, centerboard well, cans (seats), breshtuk (see below), gunwale, fender beam, etc., which is necessary for the project;
9. They carry out additional equipment and finishing.

How to make a boat?

Sew

In projects of cartop dinghy and skiff boats, patterns of their parts are often given. In this case, the boat is assembled by sewing (stitching) on ​​keel blocks or trestles, see fig. The dry-sewn body is aligned along the contours using templates and temporary mounting spacers. The seams of the sheets, being the most durable, are placed closer to the nose, as it is the most loaded and susceptible to damage.

We are building

The construction of a sharp-chine boat of greater than sewn capacity with single-curvature contours begins with the manufacture of the stem (see below) and the assembly of frame frames. The frames of sewn boats are often simply cut out of plywood (there are only 2-3 of them), but in this case it is uneconomical - too much of the rather expensive material will go to waste. The frames are assembled on the plaza, i.e. on a flat plane onto which the projections of the theoretical drawing on a scale of 1:1 are transferred. If the contours of the boat are simple and there is little space, only the hull projection can be transferred to the plaza. Methods for assembling frame frames, as strength, complexity and weight increase, are given in Fig. The grooves for the keel and stringers are selected in advance.

Next, the frame frames are placed on the frame (item a in the next figure), aligned vertically, along the contours, and the keel beam, stem (see below), fender beam and stringers are attached. After this, the body set is closed with a flat strip (pos. b). The purpose of the malkovka is, firstly, to create cuts in the keel beam, along which it will be planed to a given deadrise; secondly, check whether a section of double curvature has been tucked in somewhere, etc. trim the bottom edges of the floortimbers. Then the skin is applied, starting from the keel (below in the figure). After this, the body is removed from the frame, completed and equipped.

Note: Some amateurs, after the fry, are hacking against the rules of shipbuilding, removing the cutting of the skin from the milled set onto sheets of packaging cardboard. Then there is no need to suffer with geometry according to a theoretical drawing, and the boats float.

Nose

Forteven is the most loaded and important part of the hull set. One of the immutable rules of navigation safety says: if danger cannot be avoided, it must be taken on board. Therefore, the manufacture of a boat stem should be taken with full responsibility.

The designs of boat stems are shown in Fig. Waterstop plugs made of solid, non-rotting wood prevent water from seeping into the housing. In terms of reliability, all these designs are approximately the same. A stem with a false bow is used in cartop boats with a narrow stem.

In rough seas and when hitting obstacles, the stem experiences large dynamic loads that tend to push the hull apart, so it is reinforced with a bridge insert. Amateur shipbuilders often neglect it or do not even know what it is; This is one of the significant reasons that homemade boats last much less than the terms stated in the projects.

Stern

Another rather important part of the set, especially for a boat designed for a motor, is the transom. Transom design for motors up to 10-12 hp. is given in Fig. on right. The total thickness of the transom, with reinforcement, is from 40 mm. Perhaps more: the mounting clamps on some outboard motors do not converge by less than 50-60 mm.

Unsinkability

A radical way to avoid the serious consequences of accidents on the water is an unsinkable boat. It is quite easy to make an undecked vessel with a displacement of up to 0.5 tons unsinkable: foam blocks are glued under the cans and along the sides from the inside; then, in the bow and stern, you can fence off the corresponding. forepeak and afterpeak and fill them with foam. Volume of unsinkable blocks in cubic meters. m is calculated by the formula V=1.2W(1+ρ), where W – displacement in t, 1 – density fresh water, ρ – mass density of foam plastic. For example, if ρ=0.08 tf/cubic. m, then for a boat with a displacement of 0.25 tons you will need 0.324 cubic meters. m or 324 cu.m. dm foam plastic. It seems like a lot, but in a dinghy boat 3 m long, such a quantity can be accommodated without any noticeable deterioration in habitability.

Supply

The minimum set of mandatory equipment for a pleasure and fishing boat consists of oars, life jackets according to human capacity, an anchor on a chain or cable, a mooring line and, in case of sailing in the dark, a white bow or masthead (on the mast) all-round visibility navigation light. The latter is often neglected, which is unforgivable in our time: now on sale there are autonomous LED lamps the size of a child’s fist with a built-in solar battery and battery. The anchor from this set deserves special attention.

Anchor

Joseph Conrad called anchors “honest pieces of iron,” and no wonder: an anchor may be the last chance to save the ship and the people on it. Small vessels are most often equipped with grapple anchors, but this is far from best option. First, cats often get stuck on rocks. There are grapple anchors on sale with legs that fold back during a sharp jerk, but they are unreliable: the vessel can spontaneously unmoor just when it needs to be firmly held on. Secondly, the cat, like the classic Admiralty anchor, becomes dangerous in shallow water: the ship can sit with its bottom on the arm of the anchor sticking up.

For small vessels, Hall and Matrosov anchors and lightweight Trident anchors with increased holding power are also produced. They are quite expensive, but you can’t make them yourself; you need cast parts. You can make a welded Kurbatov anchor yourself (see figure), it is suitable for boats up to 5 m long. If it is impossible or undesirable to weight the anchor with a chain, on rocky soils a weight is lowered to it along a cable on a pin (thin cable or thick fishing line). pig of 2-3 kg.

What if Kurbatov's anchor gets stuck in the rocks; the pig needs to be lifted before it can be freed. The anchor, which is completely stuck, is released with a strong sharp tug on the cable. In this case, parts 4 and 8 may be damaged, but in most cases they can be corrected right there with the help of a hammer and pliers.

About securing the anchor

During manufacturing, you need to insert an eye into the butt of the anchor - a steel ring that dangles freely in it. The eye is also supplied with the cud-tack - the attachment point for the anchor cable/chain to the hull of the vessel. Eyelets greatly reduce wear on the cable/chain and the likelihood of sudden breakage.

The chewing tack is attached to the outside of the stem. You need to attach the chewing tack lower, above the waterline. In this case, the boat at anchor will be able to play better on the wave, not bury its nose in the water during waves, and the likelihood of the anchor getting stuck is much reduced.

Examples of projects

There are enough good projects of cartop boats, dinghies and skiffs in RuNet and in general on the Internet. Therefore, we will focus on more spacious boat designs.

Scythian

The appearance, data and design of the skiff boat developed by D. A. Kurbatov, suitable for transportation on the top trunk of a passenger car, are given in Fig. Her distinctive feature extremely cheap: the main material is boards, and the bottom is small, i.e. monkeys. If you choose the right boards for the bottom (highlighted in red in the next figure), then the plank bottom will be quite reliable. Moreover, these days the seams between the boards can be caulked with construction deformation cord (used to seal cracks in concrete) and silicone sealant. Of course, the bottom of this boat can also be made of plywood, then its weight will be reduced to 70-80 kg.

On the trail. rice. Drawings of the parts of this boat are given and a method of assembling it is shown, which is also very economical: on a simplified slipway using templates. Under the motor, the transom is strengthened as described above.

Next in Fig. the sailing rig of this boat and drawings of the oars for it are shown. The sail is a rack sail (emphasis on the “o”), you can learn how to handle it in half an hour or an hour, without knowing any theory at all. But – don’t set this sail in a fresh and stronger wind! The CPU of a rack sail is significantly higher, it heels the boat more, and it is a punt!

As for the oars, it is better to make them exactly according to the drawing. Scythian boats move very easily without oars, therefore, to save the rower's muscular efforts, the configuration of the oars and the profile of their blades become of great importance.

About the iron day

Skiff boats are sometimes made with a bottom made of galvanized iron. Firstly, such a boat with plywood sides weighs only approx. 50 kg or less, i.e. you can move it any way you want alone. Secondly, a boat with a steel bottom turns out to be much more durable in reservoirs with an acidic water reaction, of which there are more than enough in the Russian Federation: ions of even very weak acids spoil the glue and protective coatings. The disadvantage of homemade boats with steel bottom one: submitting them for examination for the purpose of registration is useless, and they will not look at them.

Dory

The same author also developed the project sailboat plywood dory, see pic; According to the table of plaza ordinates, the sheathing is cut, but, see above. In shallow sea waters with a short, steep “angry” wave (Azov, the north of the Caspian Sea, the Marquis Puddle in the Baltic), this boat showed itself better than a sea dinghy or an Azov longboat.

Below in Fig. Dan construction drawing boat, showing the method of its construction on a slipway, the design of the stem and the method of inserting the longitudinal parts of the set. Wood must be of high quality, without knots or defects, because... wooden parts sets are prestressed during assembly.

On the trail. Figure shows drawings of the dory's sailing rig. Since a dory can be sailed in quite strong winds, provision is made for taking one reef on the sail. Observe the specified dimensions exactly: dory boats are very critical to the relative position of the CPU and central nervous system!

Many people prefer to have a personal watercraft. Since branded ones cost quite a lot, homemade plywood boats can be an excellent solution.

The vessel in question can comfortably accommodate three people, and its weight is low, like that of a regular kayak. It is suitable for both fishing and walking with friends or family. If necessary, the boat can be equipped with a motor or sail.

Plywood is a durable material, so homemade motor boats made from it can accelerate to very decent speeds, while being stable and safe.

Parameters of the future boat

The watercraft in question will be 4,500 mm long, its width will be 1050 mm, and its depth will be 400 mm. Such parameters allow the boat to be used universally.

Material for production

To make the body durable and easily withstand loads, it is better to choose three-layer plywood that does not have knots, with a sheet thickness of 4 to 5 mm, and always impregnated with resin-based glue. This material makes excellent homemade wooden boats.

Plywood is used everywhere in shipbuilding. After all, thin layers of plywood connected with resin glue produce a very durable veneer that can withstand enormous loads.

What is the boat made of?

The main element of the entire structure is the keel. It is like the backbone of a boat and is attached to it on one side by a stem, which forms the bow, and on the other side by a sternpost, which forms the stern. These structural elements are responsible for the longitudinal rigidity of the vessel, ensuring that the homemade plywood motor boat is durable.

Transverse rigidity is provided by frames. Their lower part, which will become the bottom, is called flortimbers, and the two upper side parts are called futoxes.

When all the elements are assembled and securely fastened, the frame is sheathed with plywood. After this, to give the structure greater rigidity, the top of the stems, as well as the frames, are fixed with boards - sides.

To cover the body with plywood, you need to use solid sheets that will completely cover the required plane. This is the only way homemade boats and boats will have minimal amount seams. The plywood sheathing lies on the frame, forming smooth transitions lines and creating a streamlined boat shape. There is a minimal break in the waterline only on frames 2 and 4.

Materials for building a boat

• Plywood 3 sheets 1500x1500 mm.
• Boards - 3 pieces of pine, 6.5 m long and 15 mm thick.
• Two boards for the keel and false keels, the length of which is 6.5 m, thickness 25 mm.
• One board for making a stern oar, the length of which
• A board whose thickness is 40 mm and length 6.5 m (for making frames).
• Two boards for oars and stems, length 2 m, thickness 55 mm.
• Lightweight fabric 10 m, which will cover the body.
• 7 kg of tree resin.
• 4 kg of natural drying oil.
• 2 kg oil paint.
• Nails in lengths of 75, 50, 30 and 20 millimeters.
• Oarlocks for oars with bolts and fastenings.

We make parts

We create frames; they need to be drawn on plywood. To ensure everything is perfectly straight, use graph paper. It is made according to the drawings that will be presented here. Let's start with the first one.

The first step is to draw a vertical axis or diametrical plane - DP. Then horizontal lines are drawn so that the DP divides them in half. There should be nine of them, and the distance between them is 5 centimeters. Then marks are placed on these horizontal lines, along which the bends of the boat itself will be created. It is better to make them using a metal ruler, bending it along the marks. This way, a boat made with your own hands will have ideal outlines.

Now we create the inner contour. From the bottom horizontal line, two more straight lines are drawn upward, parallel to it at a distance of 60 and 75 mm. After this, 130 mm is measured from the outer bend to the axis on frames No. 2, 3 and 4. And on frames No. 1 and 5 in the same places they put aside 100 mm, because they are extreme and are being narrowed. Thus, we draw the inner high tide point on the floortimber, after which we draw a line down from it to its upper cut.

Constructing the internal contour of the futoxes

From the outer part, 40 mm is deposited inward along the entire length. And where the floortimbers join the footoxes, it needs to be made a little wider so that the structure is reliable. Thanks to this element, homemade motor boats have the necessary safety margin.

When everything is done, the drawing needs to be checked by bending it along the center line. If all the contours match, good. This means that you can make patterns from cardboard for further transfer of the image onto wooden blanks. In the case where there are inaccuracies, you can use the half that is ideal and make patterns from it, applying first one side and then the other. The drawings must have perfect symmetry, otherwise homemade plywood boats will not be strong and stable on the water.

How to transfer an image from templates to wood

When the templates are ready, we place them on a board whose thickness is 40 mm. The location should be in the direction of the wood fibers, you need to calculate everything so that they are cut as little as possible.

When drawing templates and cutting out futoxas based on them, it is worth leaving a margin, making them a little longer than the planned dimensions. When making homemade boats from plywood, make the drawings in good faith, taking into account all the nuances! The presented drawings will help you with this. Pay attention to some margin in the side view drawing, as well as in the illustration of the frame, which is shown a little higher. Such a reserve will allow you to avoid mistakes when assembling the boat frame.

When the flortimbers and futox are ready, they are placed on the drawing to mark all the overlaps in the joints. You need to mark everything with a margin of a millimeter. This is done so that during the fitting process the parts can be more carefully connected.

When everything fits perfectly, you can fasten the connection with nails. They must pierce through both parts of the frame. Bend or rivet the sharp end that comes out. This way, your homemade plywood boats will be even more durable!

Since sheathing is nailed to futox boards No. 2 and 4, they should be made 40 mm thick, but for the rest you can take thinner boards - 30 mm.

Material for stem

If you want a good and durable stem, use oak or elm to make it. It is desirable that the workpiece have a bend in the shape of the stem. If you can’t find it, then it is made of two parts, as shown in the figure. First, its shape is cut out, and then the edges of the side edges are ground at an angle of 25 degrees to the axis of the boat. Before making a watercraft, you need to study in detail the drawings of boats of the same design.

Making the keel

You need to take a board, the thickness of which is 25 mm and the length is 3.5 m. Two lines are drawn on its surface, the distance between which is 70 mm. They are used to make the future keel.

Side boards

Two boards are hewn to form perfectly even boards 150 mm wide and 5 m long.

Transom

The rear wall of the stern, where the motor is mounted, is called the transom. It is made from boards 25 mm thick. A block is nailed to it on top to increase the strength of the ship's frame.

Boat frame

They are assembled from plywood on a workbench where the keel is installed. A sternpost and a transom attached to it are attached to it on one side, and a stem on the other. The remaining parts of the boat's hull, such as stems and frames, are connected using small nails, screws, rivets, in a word, whatever, in the opinion of the craftsman, will be held more securely.

Everything is checked in detail to prevent frame distortions. You especially need to make sure that the stem and transom are in line with the axle. This is very easy to check: attach a tight rope to the top of them and make sure that this line aligns perfectly with the axis of the boat. Before creating a vessel, it is advisable to look at homemade plywood boats of various designs, drawings of which are widely presented in shipbuilding magazines.

All connections must be made with resin-impregnated cloth. The fasteners are connected to the fabric using nails. They are driven in so that they come out on the other side by five millimeters.

Frames are attached to the keel. They make grooves into which the keel is tightly secured. They are cut half a millimeter smaller than needed, so that in case of bevel it is possible to correct everything. In general, when making homemade boats and boats, it is worth leaving gaps in all joints in order to adjust the parts already on the assembled frame for its ideal shape. And after that, all connections are firmly secured with nails, as described above.

Sheathing a boat with plywood

To cover the boat, the boat is turned over and the frames are shortened. That is, they level their surface so that the plywood fits perfectly. To do this, take a metal ruler or something even and elastic and apply it to the surface of the frame. This will make it easy to see where the material needs to be removed.

To ensure that the plywood bends well, it is steamed. You need to pour water into the trough and light a fire under it. A sheet of plywood is placed on top. Water steams it, and it becomes more pliable. There is no perfect pattern from which to cut planks, although many boat plans present them. In any case, these are only approximate shapes, because everything is customized individually.

The fibers of the outer layers of plywood should run along the hull of the boat, so it will be much stronger in use and will not burst when covered.

Putty and painting

For greater strength and to prevent leakage, the boat should be covered with fabric. To do this, a cover is sewn together that will cover it up to the sides. After this, false keels are made to install them on the outside of the bottom of the vessel. Holes are drilled in the false frames for their further fastening.

After this they make putty for the boat. Take lime sifted through a sieve, pour resin into it, stir thoroughly until it resembles the consistency of batter. Then they make a spatula and putty the entire hull of the boat.

Next, the hull is coated twice with hot resin up to the sides. A previously prepared fabric cover is placed over the damp covering. It must be carefully crimped for tight gluing. All folds are smoothed out well. Afterwards, the prepared false keels are nailed and the top of the already fully assembled boat is covered with resin in three layers. Then it is turned over with the keel down, all unnecessary gaps are sawed off and auxiliary parts are removed, covered with two layers of drying oil with a gap of 35 hours. And then they paint and decorate as desired, like other homemade boats, photos of which can be seen in magazines or in this article.

Vessel registration

Registration of a homemade boat is carried out by applying to the GIMS. There you should write an application indicating the type of vessel you are planning, passport details, place of residence and telephone number. You also need to attach drawings of the vessel from all projections, indicate all the places where mechanical parts will be installed, in general, all information related to the product. In addition, you need to attach receipts of purchased materials for Only after reviewing the project by the commission, a decision will be made to register your homemade watercraft.

A punt boat is a traditional fishing craft that appeared long before keel analogues made of PVC and aluminum. Convenient and quite simple, it was used not only for fishing - it was used to transport bulky cargo and people through the water. Despite the appearance large quantity models of inflatable boats, the punt has not lost its popularity even today. One of the reasons for this is the fact that such a watercraft can not only be purchased, but also made with your own hands.

More details about what a punt is, what it consists of and what types there are, what its pros and cons are, as well as how to make such a boat yourself will be discussed in this article.

Device

The craft consists of the following:

• of two sides (right and left) up to 60–70 cm high;
• flat bottom, reinforced with longitudinal or transverse stiffeners (lamellas);
• rectangular stern (transom).

To transport people and control the boat, 2–3 benches (banks) are attached between its sides. Various fishing accessories are stored in a box with a locking lid mounted on the stern. Depending on how many people are planned to be transported by boat. Its length varies from 2 to 4 meters with a width of 1.0–1.2 meters.

Majority modern models They have a pointed or narrowed shape of the bow, due to which such a boat acquires better maneuverability and speed of movement (especially against the current), and has less windage in strong headwinds.

You can move around on a punt either with the help of oars or with mounted screw or water-jet engines mounted on the stern.

Kinds

Depending on the material used to make the punt, they come in the following types:
Wooden is the classic version of this boat. Wooden boats are made independently from boards coniferous species(spruce, pine), plywood. The disadvantage of such watercraft is their considerable weight, which is why fishermen who do not have a car with a trailer use such a boat only on a nearby body of water.

A wooden boat must be made from boards with a moisture content of no more than 16%, free from cracks and falling knots

Plastic - lightweight and durable factory boats with a one-piece structure made of durable and impact-resistant polypropylene, fiberglass, and ABS plastic. It is impossible to make such a boat yourself. Its price, compared to inflatable analogues, is slightly lower. The disadvantage of such a boat is its fragility at low temperatures and very difficult independent repairs.

Plastic models should be used only in the warm season - in cold weather and frosts their body becomes fragile and is easily damaged

Metal – such boats are made from aluminum and duralumin. In terms of strength and weight, such boats are the “golden mean” between wooden and plastic models. Having low weight and constant strength of the body material, independent of air and water temperature, they can be used freely throughout the entire open water season.

Aluminum punt boat is not suitable for sea navigation – lightweight design easily capsized by a large wave

Advantages and disadvantages

If you ask yourself which boat is better - a keel or a flat bottom - then the latter has a number of advantages, such as:

• Stability - due to the large area of ​​​​contact between the craft and the water, a flat-bottomed boat is more resistant to side waves and wind compared to its keel counterpart;
• High maneuverability and carrying capacity - having a shallow draft, such boats allow you to transport up to 5-6 people with a length of 4 m, while moving through shallow water areas;

On a note. By installing an outboard screw motor-swamp vehicle on a punt, you can navigate through overgrown and silted bays and swamps. The design of the unit and the material used to make its propeller allow it to chop up the grass that gets in its way and not get clogged with dirt.

• Light weight - plastic and aluminum punts weigh significantly less than wooden and some inflatable boats;
• Ease of manufacture - you can make a punt with your own hands with a minimal set of tools and materials. The cost of such a watercraft will be significantly lower than the factory model.

The main disadvantage of such a boat is its low maneuverability and speed compared to keel boats.

Thanks to its shallow draft, the punt's maneuverability in shallow waters is higher than that of any boat or keelboat

Making a punt with your own hands

Assembling a punt with your own hands includes drawing up drawings, purchasing materials, preparing necessary tools, manufacturing the bottom, sides, stern from boards, fastening them and treating the structure against rotting with antiseptics and resin.

Materials and tools

Required tools:

• Jigsaw.
• Roulette.
• Square.
• Marker.
• Hammer.
• Screwdriver.

The materials required are dry spruce or pine boards 25–30 mm thick, bars with a cross section of 50×50 mm, nails or galvanized screws, resin, tow, waterproof paint.

Drawing up a drawing

In order to build a punt boat from planks yourself, you must first of all make clear and visual drawings (project) of its main parts: the sides, bottom, stern (transom). Based on the drawings, the need for materials is calculated: boards, plywood, bars for the frame and lamellas.

The drawing of a flat-bottomed boat should be visual and understandable - an error in dimensions during the manufacture of the watercraft will lead to a decrease in its tightness and maneuverability.

Making the bottom

Several boards are placed close to each other, and the contour of the bottom is drawn on them with a marker according to the dimensions of the drawing. 5 crossbars are made from the bars, the length of which is equal to the width of the bottom in the middle, stern and bow parts. The laid boards are sewn together in the middle with the longest cross member, after which the bottom is cut out along the outlined contour using a jigsaw or a hand-held circular saw, leaving areas at the bow and stern uncut.

In the bow and stern parts, the bottom blank is additionally fixed with boards and nylon cord

By tightening the bottom with crossbars, we achieve minimal gaps between its boards

Installation of bow and stern boards

After the bottom is cut to the bow using rough nails or self-tapping screws, a block - the bow board - is attached at a close to right angle. Then several boards are attached to the rear of the bottom, from which the stern (transom) is formed.

Close to right angle fastening the bow board will allow you to evenly distribute the force of the oncoming flow of water acting on the bow as the boat moves

Fastening to the bottom of the sides

The first two boards on the right and left sides are first nailed to the bow board, then bent along the contour of the bottom and tied together with a strong cord at the stern. After this, they are attached to the ends of the bottom with nails.

When attaching the first boards of the sides, it is better to fix them at the stern with a strong nylon cord

To fasten subsequent boards parallel to the crossbars, bulkheads are nailed to the bottom.

To prevent the sides from moving, the boards of the starboard and port sides are nailed to the bulkheads at the same time, without first assembling the starboard or port side completely.

With a boat length of 3.5–4 meters, it is necessary to have at least 2 bulkheads to which the side boards are sewn

Treatment of the bottom and sides

All cracks in the bottom and between the side boards are caulked with tow. To protect the wood of the bottom from rotting, as well as to prevent leaks, the bottom and sides are well coated with resin.

Flat-bottomed plywood boat

A ring for a chain or mooring rope is installed in the bow.

A flat-bottomed boat can be made not only from boards, but also from moisture-resistant plywood of the FBS or FSF brands.

A punt boat is made from plywood using a simpler technology than its analogue from boards. First, two sides 30–40 cm high in the form of rectangular trapezoids, a rectangular stern and a bow are cut out of a sheet of plywood using a jigsaw. Then, using special glue, first the right side, then the stern, the left side, and the bow are attached to a whole sheet of plywood (bottom). In this case, the stern part is attached to the bottom at a right angle, and the bow part at an obtuse angle (120–130°). All elements, in addition to glue, are fastened together and the bottom with bars located inside the craft. After assembly, the outside of the boat is coated with two layers of waterproof paint or resin.

Such a boat, compared to one made from boards, has such advantages as light weight, low costs for purchasing materials, and ease of manufacture.

The following video will tell you more about how such a punt boat is made with your own hands:

On a note. Punts are not only homemade, but also factory-made. Among them, such models as “SAVA” 270, “SAVA” 370, Liman”, “Tortilla-2”, “Kazanka 6M” are popular. The cost of budget boats is 18,000–20,000 rubles, while the purchase of more spacious premium models will cost 25,000–30,000 rubles.

Thus, a punt boat is a watercraft slightly inferior in its characteristics to keel boats. It is made from both boards and moisture-resistant plywood. In addition to homemade boats, there is a large selection of factory models of plastic and aluminum punts on sale.

Good day to all!
Today the author of this work invites us to look at the process of making a homemade plywood boat; he was inspired to do this by an old dream. First of all, he went to one of the factories where similar boats are produced, it is located in the city of Cherepovets, where he emphasized several points for himself that would later be useful in production, and bought the necessary material there.

To make a boat we will need:

Tool:

Pencil;
- ruler;
- electric screwdriver;
- Sander;
- electric planer;
- clamps;
- pliers.
- square ruler.

Materials:

Plywood;
- copper wire
- fiberglass;
- epoxy adhesive;
- self-tapping screws.

Since the plywood sheets were smaller than the planned dimensions of the boat, the author had to glue them together, going through everything possible options, this type of gluing was chosen “on the mustache”

And so, we take the sheets and start marking.

We smooth the ends of the plywood at an angle, for this we use a plane, and then we go through it with a sanding machine

It should look like this.

Next, the sheets are applied to each other and glued together using wood glue, then we place them under the press, placing a pressure bar along the entire length of the seam.

After the sheets have completely stuck together, you can remove them from under the press, remove clamping bars, the joint should be smooth and very strong, so we got the blanks of the length we needed.

We mark a center line on a sheet of plywood; all the main dimensions will go from it in the future.

Draw the bottom of the boat, as shown in the photo

Further using electric jigsaw We cut out the bottom according to the markings, use a specialized blade designed for plywood, it is best to cut at high speeds.

Then we mark one side for the boat, cut it out, and use it as a template for making the second one.

Next, we make markings and cut out the transom.

We join the cut parts, chamfer the joints using grinder. Next, we make holes on the sides and bottom of the boat with a thin drill, and begin to sew together the elements of the boat using prepared pieces of copper wire, which we insert into the holes made, and then twist with pliers.

Sew from stern to bow.

In this process you will need an assistant, since it will be difficult to do it alone.

Example of seams.

The final result, when the last part is fixed, we get a body like this.

We do a fitting.

Next, we check the geometry of the resulting shape; if necessary, we additionally tighten the staples, and then use a chisel to fit them, doing this with inside sides After the operations were completed, we cut out and installed temporary spacers; they were secured in place of the future frames.

In order to form a more even seam, it was decided to use masking tape.

Next, the author drew a template for the frames and began assembly.

These are the frames we got, everything is fastened with self-tapping screws and epoxy glue.

Let's start gluing the internal seams, for this we use strips of fiberglass, and epoxy resin, glue it in three layers, try to saturate the fiberglass well, make sure that there are no bubbles.

The end result is a beautiful transparent seam.

Next, the author adjusted the frames and screwed on the fenders

Then I secured the frames using glue and self-tapping screws.

Then you need to turn the boat over and remove all the staples using pliers. When everything is ready, we round the joints

Next, you can begin gluing the seams. We do everything the same as when gluing the inside.

When all the seams were dry, the author attached slats for the front and middle bench.

Fishing enthusiasts or simply people living near some body of water sooner or later face the question of purchasing a boat. It can provide not only pleasant boat trips under the gentle sun, but also accessibility to the most catchable places where trophy fish are found. Buying a boat ready for launch is very expensive for many people, but a boat made of plywood, built with your own hands, will cost several times less. And this process itself, interesting and creative, will bring a lot of pleasure.

Let's dispel doubts

After hearing the phrase - a boat made of plywood - some pessimists will twist their finger at their temples and say that this is absolutely impossible. Like, making a real watercraft from thin and straight plywood, and one that can support more than one person, is a utopia. In fact, this is quite possible. Moreover, you can build not just a small punt, but even a real sailing yacht, and if a small outboard motor is installed on the reinforced transom, and a cockpit is made on the bow, you will get something like a boat. So what, the boat will work out. And these are not fishing tales.

Plywood comes in different thicknesses and strengths. It is even easier to cut parts to size and in different configurations from it than from boards. In addition, it bends well enough to give the sides the desired roundness. Modern means to ensure the moisture resistance of a plywood boat is also sufficient. Therefore, for someone who decides to make a boat on their own, only three things are needed: desire, a working head and hands that are not afraid of work. Everything else can be easily found.

Well, the advantages of a plywood boat are simply undeniable:

• Light weight. The simplest punt weighs only 15-20 kg.
• A well-made boat can last a very long time.
• There are boat designs that can easily support up to 5 people.
• Cheapness.

Preparations for work

Having set out to build a plywood boat yourself, the first thing you need to do is find an appropriate room in which all the work will be carried out. It should be spacious, dry, with good lighting. Sudden changes in temperature and high humidity are categorically excluded. The entire production will take enough time, which is stupid to waste in the summer, when you can do other things. Therefore, work is usually carried out either in winter or spring, so that the atmosphere is “ production workshop"plays a very important role. Untreated plywood does not tolerate moisture well, but glue and impregnating liquids are applied better and with better quality in warmth. Yes and paint ready product It's also better in the warmth.

Second necessary action- this is a drawing. There should be no problem with this - you can find it on the Internet in just a few minutes. But even purchasing material without it is not worth it.

There is no point in starting work without a quality drawing.

There are different types of homemade plywood boats, and you need to choose a project that you can carry out yourself. If this is your first experience in shipbuilding, then it is best to choose the project of the most ordinary punt. Despite the simplicity of the design, the possibilities it provides are almost unlimited. You can hang a motor on it, and even put a mast. And under the oars she walks just fine.

Having calculated from the drawing what and how much material is needed, you can begin purchasing it.

Material

It is not worth reminding that the material from which the plywood boat will be built must be of high quality. The plywood itself is without knots, the glue is only from a trusted manufacturer, and the impregnating liquids too.

The entire list looks like this:

• Sheet plywood 1.5-1.5 m, 5 mm thick, grade BS, BK or FSF.
• Several boards, preferably oak.
• Fiberglass.
• Putty.
• Waterproof glue.
• Waterproof impregnation for wood or drying oil.
• Waterproof enamel or Oil paint.
• Self-tapping screws.
• Nails.
• Copper wire.

When choosing plywood, you need to carefully inspect the edges for chips and cracks at the ends. You shouldn’t hope that you can saw off a couple of centimeters. Everything else can be easily and at a very reasonable price purchased at any hardware or hardware store.

Tool

A good owner, who is accustomed to independently produce certain things in the house renovation work, the set of tools is already there. Even with interest. Directly building a boat will require the following arsenal:

• Jigsaw.
• Electric planer.
• Screwdriver.
• A circular saw.
• Sander.
• Plane.
• Hacksaw.
• Hammer.
• Pliers.
• Screwdrivers.
• Metal ruler.
• Chisel.
• Spatulas.
• Brushes.
• Clamps.
• Drawing set.
• Graph paper.
• Cardboard.

Having prepared everything according to these two lists, you can proceed directly to work.

Power tools will make the job much easier

Let's start drawing

Mark the contours of the boat directly on plywood sheet It would be quite reckless. A small mistake and the vessel will yaw to the side or tilt to one side. Therefore, it is better to first draw a diagram or sketch on graph paper in full size. Moreover, the word diagram is not very appropriate here, because it is necessary to strictly maintain the dimensions.

The algorithm of actions is as follows:

• A center line is drawn dividing the bottom of the boat lengthwise.
• At one end, a transom line is drawn perpendicularly to size.
• The installation points of the frames are marked on the center line itself.
• At these points, perpendiculars are drawn to suit the size of the frames.
• Using patterns, the bottom itself is drawn.
• The resulting diagram is folded in half along the center line to check symmetry.

Patterns for the sides, frames and transom are made in the same way, taking into account their sizes and configurations. But the drawing doesn't end there. Now, after the symmetry of the bottom and the sameness of the sides have been carefully checked, the stage of transferring the drawing onto a cardboard template begins. The graph paper is too thin, but it will be much easier to transfer the drawing onto plywood from a cardboard template without errors.

First gluing

If you managed to get sheet plywood that matches the length of the future boat, that’s good. But if you have ordinary sheets of 1.5-1.5 meters, you will have to glue them together. Most The best way– gluing with a mustache.

Mustache gluing is the strongest connection between plywood sheets

A distance equal to 10-12 sheet thicknesses is retreated from the edge of the sheet, and ground off at an angle with a plane. After this, you need to go through the sander and do the same operations with the second sheet. Cleaned and degreased surfaces are smeared with glue, carefully connected and secured with clamps. Since clamps can only be placed at the edges, a weight must be placed in the center. After the glue has dried, the clamps can be removed, but let the product sit for at least another day.

Cutting out parts

After the glue has dried and all burrs and smudges at the gluing site have been removed, you can transfer the dimensions of the bottom and sides using cardboard templates. During this simple process, you should ensure that there are no allowances even of a couple of millimeters. Especially on different sides.

Then a jigsaw with a small-toothed file tucked into it is used. Large ones can clutter the cutting edge. But even after a small one, it’s better to carefully go through a medium-sized one sandpaper. You need to cut carefully, without rushing. One wrong movement, the slightest deviation from the drawn line - and in the best case you will have to go back a few centimeters, in the worst case you will have to start this detail from the very beginning. That is, from drawing a new one.

You can draw and cut frames right away in full size. But you'll have to think about the transom. If a motor boat is planned, then it needs to be reinforced. There are two options. One is to cut several identical parts from plywood and glue them together. Or make a transom from a solid board with a thickness of at least 25 mm.

Let's start collecting

The boat is assembled using the “sew and glue” principle. It’s better to start with the transom - then it will be easier to install the sides. Holes of such a diameter are drilled in the rear of the bottom and in the lower part of the transom that the copper wire can pass through. The holes must be strictly opposite each other. Using pieces of wire, the transom is attached to the bottom. After making sure that the edges match, you need to tighten the twists of the wire with pliers.

Instead of copper wire, you can take a wire of suitable diameter

The sides are attached in a similar way, starting from the stern and ending with the last twist at the bow of the boat. At this point, the result is a collapsible model, which can still be corrected. Trim excess, smooth out uneven areas. After the next operation, you can forget about dismountable tactics.

Second gluing

Or rather, gluing the seams between the bottom, sides and transom in order not only to secure the parts, but also to ensure moisture resistance. A strip of fiberglass is carefully laid on the seam and carefully coated with moisture-resistant glue. In this case, one layer is not enough. You will need at least three. And if the first layer of fiberglass is approximately 100 mm, that is, 50 on each side, then the second and third layers should be wider. 125-135 mm. it will be just right, only each subsequent layer needs to be shifted a little - one towards the bottom, the other, on the contrary, towards the side. This is done so that the fiberglass comes into contact and sticks directly to the plywood. After the glue dries properly, this folding gasket will turn into almost real plastic, and this will guarantee that the boat is moisture resistant.

Installation of frames

The frames are installed strictly in place on the adhesive base and screwed with self-tapping screws. After the glue has dried, the screws are unscrewed, and the holes left by them are filled with the same glue. If nails are used instead of self-tapping screws, then after pulling them out, you need to hammer wooden nails into the holes and coat them with glue.

Final imparting moisture resistance

This completes the construction of the boat. What remains is internal and exterior decoration, serving not only for aesthetics, but also to ensure that the boat does not leak. Ordinary wooden boats will be tarred, but what to impregnate a plywood boat with - there is a very specific answer to this question. On the outside, all seams and the entire body are treated with fiberglass and glue, in the same way as was done when gluing the parts. Before this operation, the protruding wire should be removed or cut off. The inside of the plywood boat is impregnated with hot drying oil.

When covering a boat with fiberglass, you must carefully ensure that there are no bubbles.

Painting

At this point, the construction of the plywood boat can be considered complete. It will take some time to dry, and by and large you can already swim on it. On oars, with the help of an engine, if you tried to make the transom for a motor, or even under a sail, if this is provided for by the design. It is already completely waterproof, but absolutely not aesthetically pleasing. Painting is the most final stage, and then the production of the boat will be completed completely.

There are two options here. Or oil paint - the color is chosen according to taste - for fishing, something merging with nature, for walking, it can be brighter. Or waterproof enamel, selected according to the same principle. You'll have to wait a little longer until the paint or enamel dries - and you can safely set sail.

Main

Before you start building a plywood boat yourself, you need to understand that such homemade products do not tolerate careless approach to the matter. This may affect not only appearance products, but also on your own safety and reliability. The first thing you need to pay attention to Special attention, is the room in which the work will be carried out. If it was decided to build a boat in winter or in early spring, then you need to exclude drafts and high humidity.

The second thing you need to pay special attention to is the material and tools. Plywood must be selected without knots, glue, paint and drying oil only from a trusted manufacturer. The tool must be in in perfect order. The jigsaw is equipped with a file with small teeth.

If you are planning a motor boat, special attention should be paid to the transom. To make it, it is better to take a solid oak board. Plywood glued together in several layers will also work, but the board will be more reliable.

You should also strictly monitor the symmetry of the bottom and the uniformity of the sides. Incorrect bending of one side on a boat or on a dinghy, depending on what is being built, will lead to the fact that it will scour the water or pull to one side.

And lastly: there is no need to rush under any circumstances. If the instructions for the glue indicate that it should dry for three days, then further work should be started only on the fourth. The same principles apply with paint and drying oil.

Building a plywood boat yourself is not an easy task. But there’s nothing particularly complicated about it. You just need to spend some time and apply maximum knowledge and skills, which can be easily gleaned both on the Internet and from more knowledgeable people. But after completing this interesting and creative work you will be able to safely go to the reservoir on a unique watercraft built with your own hands.