Cinder block is one of the most popular materials for the construction of walls of one-story buildings. It is distinguished by its low cost and the possibility of producing it independently at home.
Cinder block - wall stone
This building material is intended for low-rise construction. There is an opinion that if you include “high” grade cement in the mix, then you can make homemade blocks solid foundation for a bathhouse or a house. However, foundation blocks must withstand enormous loads, so the blocks should be purchased at the factory rather than made independently.
Cinder blocks are:
- hollow;
- full-bodied.
Due to sufficient strength characteristics, solid cinder blocks are used for cladding and construction. load-bearing walls, as well as partitions. At the same time, hollow products have good heat and sound insulation. Due to voids, raw materials are significantly saved, which means the cost of production is much lower.
Cinder blocks are also used as additional insulation when constructing frames.
How to mix a solution to create a cinder block?
The name of the building material “cinder block” speaks for itself. This means that the main component of the solution will be the slag obtained in the blast furnace, which should be sifted through a special sifter (sieve).
We will need:
- 7 parts of the main filler (slag will serve as this);
- 2 shares of gravel having fractions of 5-15 mm;
- one and a half parts of cement (it is best to take grade M 400, 500);
- about 3 parts water.
In addition to slag, other components can act as the main element: clay, expanded clay, sand, gravel, crushed stone, gypsum and many others. It should be noted that if you choose blast furnace slag as a filler, then other additives must not be used. If you want to get a colored cinder block, then you can add chalk or red bricks reduced to fine crumbs into the solution (they should be crushed).
In addition, during the production of cinder blocks, make sure that the solution does not spread.
| Component name | Qty components | Density, kg/m3 | Water absorption,% | Mrz, cycles not less | Compressive strength, kg/cm2 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Cement, kg Sand, kg (m3) Crushed stone, kg (m3) Water, l (depending on the moisture content of the components) | 500 900 (0,52) 900 (0,52) 100...200 | 2350 | 4 | 200 | 410 |
| Cement, kg Screenings, kg (m3) Sand, kg (m3) Water, l | 500 920 (0,54) 1150 (0,7) 100...200 | 2160 | 4,5 | 200 | 400 |
| Cement, kg Sand, kg (m3) Water, l | 600 1550 (0,9) 100...190 | 2200 | 5,3 | 200 | 436 |
Tip for obtaining durable blocks: you need to add a plasticizer to the solution (you can buy it at any hardware store). Then you will receive not only durable, but also frost-resistant and waterproof blocks.
When you are going to set up the process of creating cinder blocks yourself, you should understand that there is no universal solution recipe. Each master selects his own unique formula through trial and error. If you are a beginner, you can use the standard one.
Cinder block production methods
There are two ways to obtain such blocks on your site.
- Using formwork, that is, a form made of lumber or steel sheets.
- Based on the operation of a special machine.
Video - Making cinder blocks by hand
Video - Cinder block walking mobile machine
Video - Machine for making cinder blocks
Tools and materials for block production:
- molds (wood or metal), or vibrating machine;
2,3,4 – pallet blanks. 5,6,7 – frame of the matrix from below (corner 25x25). 8 – bar for fastening hollow cores. 9 – emptiness. 10 – upper void plug. 11 – lower void plug 
- concrete mixer;
- leveling spatula;
- shovel for pouring mortar;
- solution.
Instructions for making your own mold
The design of the form has the following form: bottom and side walls. Between a pair of transverse boards or sheets of metal, you should fasten the crossbars at the required distance for you. Maintain a step that corresponds to the size of the required cinder block.
Because get it ready product it will be difficult to remove from the mold; the design of the container must be collapsible. For production efficiency, make formwork designed to produce 4-6 cinder blocks.
To make a mold to create cinder blocks you will need:
- iron sheets 3 mm thick;
- 5 mm iron strips (several pieces);
- cylinders, 4 cm in diameter;
- welding machine;
- Bulgarian;
- chalk for marking.
Stages of manufacturing a single split metal mold
Step 1. We mark the sheet according to the size of the blocks: we will need two longitudinal sides and two transverse ones. We cut out our plates with a grinder.
The width of the longitudinal plate is 210 mm, the length is 450 mm, the transverse plate is 210 by 220 mm.
Step 2. Wings 3.5 cm high should be welded to the bottom of the cinder block mold so that the mold does not move, and a handle to quickly release the poured solution from the mold.
Step 3. Notches are made along the contour of the transverse and longitudinal walls in order to hook the mold onto the longitudinally installed walls.
Step 4. Let's assemble our form.
Step 5. To create voids in the cinder block, we make hanging cylinders. They must be welded to a plate 3-4 mm thick, which should seem to penetrate the cylinders closer to the top. We make notches on the end walls of our container to hook them.
Video - Do-it-yourself mold for cinder blocks
Production of cinder blocks using a split mold
Forms have any dimensions. Standard sizes structures are 90x190x188 mm; in private construction, other sizes can be used, for example, 40x20x20 cm. In order to save material, it is better to use forms with cells of 4-6 blocks and cylinders (squares) to create cavities.
A homemade metal form (detachable) looks like this.
Let's consider step by step process production of cinder blocks.
Step 1. Mix the solution in a concrete mixer.
Step 2. Pour the mixture into our mold with a shovel. In this case the mixture is thick. You can also use a liquid solution.
Step 3. Be sure to ensure that the solution fills the container evenly. To do this, compact the filled solution. We control the filling of the form to the brim. Align upper layer using a spatula.
Step 4. If the solution is dry, then you should use a special lid, the holes in which will block the bayonets in the mold. This device will help compact our cinder block. This type of lid is not used for liquid solutions.
Step 5. We are moving our unit to an open area for further storage. After 30-40 minutes, remove the bottom, sides and top cover. To better remove the cinder block, we use a regular hammer to hit the top of the wall and a longitudinal strip with cylinders.
Step 6. It will take us at least a day to dry completely.
Production of cinder blocks using a vibrator machine
Step 1. We mix our solution, taking into account the proportions. Particular attention should be paid to the right amount of water, because the cinder blocks should not spread when you remove them from the mold.
Kneading
To find out the correct consistency of the mixture, carry out small test. Squeeze the solution in your hand: if it connects in it and does not spread when it falls to the ground, it is a good and correct solution.
Step 2. We fill our form with a solution, with a slide.
Step 3 . We turn on the machine for 2-4 seconds, after which the loaded composition will be compacted. We level the mixture with our hands so that the iron pins (cylinders) are visible.
Step 4. If there is not enough mixture in the form, it needs to be replenished, insert the clamp and turn on the vibrator again. The completion of formation is indicated by the settling of the clamp on the stops.
Step 5 . Our vibration form should be turned on again for 6-10 s.
Step 6 . Close the top with a lid with holes for the cylinders. And we do another tamping by raising and lowering the lid 4-5 times.
Step 7 . Then, without turning off the machine, the uniform is removed - just take the machine to you.
Using a vibrating machine, you can produce up to 500 cinder blocks per shift.
Step 8 . We dry the blocks for 5-10 days. Complete hardening of the resulting building materials will take place after a month, while the humidity should be high and the air warm.
Step 9. After a day, the blocks can be moved to storage locations (they will not be broken), but they can only be placed together after a week. And if you do add a plasticizer to the solution, then after 6-8 hours they can be moved and stored.
Of course, you shouldn’t purchase a vibrating machine for a single production, but you should pay attention to compaction when creating cinder blocks. Special attention(the quality of the product depends on this process). In this case, you can use a regular vibratory grinder, on which you just need to place our mold with the mixture.
Video - Production of cinder blocks using a vibrator machine
Features of storing cinder blocks
The resulting products are stored in pyramidal stacks, one hundred pieces at a time.
At the same time, they are stacked at small intervals. All you have to do is dry the material for a couple of months, then you can start building a bathhouse, an extension or a shed.
What are the features of cinder block production?
When producing cinder blocks, special attention should be paid to drying. For example, any dent or unevenness will ruin the building material. Another requirement for material quality is geometry. A large number of irregularities and defects is a prerequisite for increased costs for finishing the constructed walls. Therefore, in order for the product to turn out smooth, you should fill the mold or vibrating mold to the brim. Do not skimp on pouring the solution in heaps, because the vibration will shake out your mixture.
For better plasticity, when mixing the solution, do not forget to add plasticizer at the rate of 5 g per block. This will save the product from possible cracks, increase strength and frost resistance. To build a small bathhouse, you can mix the solution manually, but a concrete mixer will help speed up the process. You just need to buy or borrow a small unit with a capacity of 02-0.5 cubic meters. m.
Video - Homemade concrete mixer
Before preparing the mixture, the slag is moistened 5-6 hours before. This will allow better binding of cement grains and filler fractions. It should be noted that if you are filling wooden or metal forms without the possibility of vibrating, the mixture should be liquid.
Pros and cons of using cinder blocks
The advantages of cinder block include:
- possibility of production at summer cottage or in a private home;
- drying of the material can take place in an autoclave ( industrial production), and on outdoors(for self-production);
- the cinder block building carries minimal losses heat;
- the material is inexpensive;
- construction of the building is carried out quickly, taking into account big sizes blocks;
- when mixing the solution, you can, by changing the proportions, give it certain qualities;
- You can produce cinder blocks of any size.
Disadvantages of cinder block:
- low frost resistance, but with the use of a special additive they can be increased;
- there are doubts about environmental friendliness, especially for products made from blast furnace slag;
- As for the liquid absorption characteristics, the material has strong moisture absorption and requires special protective coatings;
- fragility (this material is clearly not suitable for the construction of high-rise buildings).
- Blocks made with the addition of cement have the highest strength. The next place is occupied by lime blocks.
- If small granules are replaced with part of the sifted sand, the strength of the products will increase slightly.
- A combination of cement and lime (or clay) in a 3:1 ratio will allow you to save money, which will not affect the quality at all.
- Before you start pouring the solution, the molds should be cleaned and wiped. This will prevent the resulting blocks from sticking to the bottom and walls. For such wiping, diesel fuel, used oil or similar products are used.
- The density of the solution is a direct indicator of the rate of hardening. The thicker it is, the faster the block can harden. The main quality characteristics of cinder blocks depend not only on the production technology, but also on the choice of solution. Below are various types of mixtures, the use of which demonstrates certain characteristics required of the material.
Video – Cinder block. Instructions for a beginner
Wall blocks have long become one of the most common building materials. When constructing a garage, residential building or other outbuildings for the construction of walls, the cheapest building material are cinder blocks. They are made from almost any waste material. At the same time, cinder blocks are laid in walls not only on sand-cement mortar, but also on clay mortar, which further reduces the cost of construction. Unlike brick, building blocks It’s much easier to do it at home with your own hands. The process of making cinder blocks and the technology is quite simple and accessible to anyone who wants to save money and who likes to do it themselves.
Briefly, what is a cinder block?
According to the prevailing opinion, cinder blocks are usually understood as blocks made by vibrocompression (vibroforming) from concrete mortar, the main components of the solution are slag and cement as the main binder. However, today cinder blocks are conventionally called any building blocks obtained by vibrocompression (vibroforming) from concrete mortar. The presence of slag is not necessary - the components of the concrete solution can be: slag, granite screenings, granite crushed stone, river crushed stone, gravel, broken brick and concrete, broken hardened cement, broken glass, expanded clay and even sand.
Typically, the size of a cinder block is in the range of 200 mm by 200 mm by 400 mm or less. There are two types of cinder blocks - hollow and solid. There are a great many varieties of blocks: these are ordinary wall blocks(for example, cinder block, smooth block 140), wall blocks (used for the construction of partitions indoors, has a thickness of 90 mm), decorative blocks for walls (decorative block 190), blocks for fences (decorative block 140, decorative corner block), blocks for finishing facades (facade stone), etc. At home, you can also make bricks from clay - the choice is yours.
To make cinder blocks you need two things: a form and raw materials.
Mold options for cinder blocks
Shape from sheet metal 3 mm thick. Together with your assistants, using a concrete mixer, you can easily “produce” up to 300 blocks per day without much effort. Is it a lot or a little? Judge for yourself: a garage measuring 6x4 m will require 450 of these blocks, and one floor of a house measuring 6.5 x 8 m will require 1000 pieces.
Mold for concrete blocks (all sizes are internal, welds are external).
Block making solution prepares like this. Mix the slightly moistened mixture (the amount of water is determined experimentally) in the proportion: cement - 1 part, slag or expanded clay - from 7 to 12 (the proportion is given for M400 cement). Having placed the form on a flat area, fill it with solution, tamp it with a hand tamper and, aligning it along the top edge, cut off the excess with a metal strip. Now carefully remove the mold (it has no bottom) - the block is ready.
Place the form next to it and repeat the process. At the end of the work, do not forget to thoroughly wash the mold with water. After 24 hours, the blocks can already be stored (no more than three in height), freeing up space for the next batch. The size of the form is given in case you plan to lay walls with additional cladding of 1/2 brick. If your building has walls plastered on both sides, then you can take arbitrary dimensions - as long as you can then lift such a block with your hands. And when laying walls 50 cm thick, do not forget to “bandage” every two rows of blocks with a jointed brick row.
You can choose the sizes of homemade cinder blocks to suit your needs.
Most simplest form, which satisfied me most, I made as follows. I selected planed boards with a width equal to the height of the cinder block (140 mm). The length of the boards should be no more than 2 m, since working with a longer form is more difficult: you have to make a lot of unnecessary movements. Next you need cross members. The two outer crossbars are connected to the longitudinal boards “on sliding grooves” (Fig.).
Form for three cinder blocks
WITH inside longitudinal boards(between the crossbars) every 140 mm, a cut is formed with a hacksaw and a chisel, transverse grooves with a depth of 7...8 mm. The width of the cut depends on the thickness of the separating plates made of sheet iron, textolite, and getinaks. Plates made from other durable materials are also suitable. sheet material, as long as it is smooth enough. From Fig. 1 it is clear how to make a mold. It takes a long time to describe it and there is no point in it, I just want to say one thing: before pouring the solution into it, the finished form is placed on absolutely flat surface. It is advisable to paint all mold parts made of wood. oil paint, which will ensure easier removal of cinder blocks from the mold. Each time before pouring the solution into the mold, all of it internal surfaces wipe with diesel oil (diesel oil) or used machine oil. Wipe lightly, not copiously. To reduce solution consumption, and cinder blocks turned out to be light and with voids, - and this is additional heat in the room, - the molds are filled halfway with the solution, after which champagne bottles are pressed into the solution.
Form filled with solution
If after installing the bottles the solution level does not rise enough, required amount solution (to the top of the mold) is added with a trowel. After 2...3 hours, the solution will settle significantly and become stronger, then the bottles are pulled out, carefully turning them around their axis, and immediately washed with water, otherwise the solution will stick firmly to them and further use the bottles will be unusable.
The process of removing cinder blocks from the mold is very simple. Just lightly tap the mold around the perimeter with a hammer and disassemble it. The side boards are easy to separate, but removing the divider plates is a little more difficult. You will have to carefully hit the protruding plate from above and slightly to the side with a hammer.
Every day, that is, after 24 hours, I took the almost hardened cinder blocks out of the mold and poured the solution into it again. I did not use any compaction of the solution with a tamper or vibration. A few words about the solution. Despite the fact that it was quite liquid, the cinder blocks, after appropriate exposure, acquired such strength that they were the greatest work it was then possible to split or trim.
For one part of “400″ grade cement I took 9 or even 10 parts of slag. There were no defects. Why did I tell you this? Yes, in order to quickly make a significant number of cinder blocks of excellent quality with just a few molds. I made cinder blocks in the evening after work every day, and I will say that this work was not a burden for me. I don’t have a concrete mixer and I mixed the solution by hand in a tray with a capacity of 300 p. Well, if you work together, everything will turn out effortlessly. Alternatively, you can make foam blocks with your own hands .
And one more option self-made blocks. Sheet iron mold.
I chose the block sizes 510x250x215 mm (volume of 14 bricks). From scrap sheet iron I welded 11 molds without bottoms. I welded 2 handles on the sides.
I spread the roofing material right on the ground and place the form. To prevent the mixture from sticking to the walls of the mold, I wipe them from the inside with a rag moistened with waste oil or diesel fuel. I pour hard expanded clay concrete there. I don't tamp very hard. I remove the first form after filling the 11th - this is about 10-12 minutes. The blocks remain in place for 12 hours. Then I move them under the canopy. They harden at above-zero temperatures for 24 days. I make a canopy from roofing felt, tarpaulin or polyethylene film. Under it, the blocks will be protected from rain and sun.
Tried it make blocks and with voids. He inserted two wooden round timbers, turned into a cone and wrapped roofing iron. Void formers can be round, square, rectangular... Depending on how the blocks are laid, the wall thickness is 215, 250 or 510 mm.
For thick walls it is better to make blocks hollow, for thin walls - filled. Conventionally, walls with a thickness of 215 mm without voids can be called cold, 250 mm - semi-warm, 510 mm with voids - warm.
To make half blocks, I insert a sheet of iron into the mold in the center. In the blanks that are used to form openings in the walls of the house, you have to insert wooden plugs to secure the door and window frames.
Tried it make building blocks, using a vibrator, but the solution goes to the bottom of the mold and the expanded clay does not bind. To prevent this from happening, I cooked general shape for several blocks. The vibrator was attached to the side. I made the walls of the mold higher by 1/3 - this is for concrete shrinkage during vibration.
Fillers can be local materials that are not in short supply: expanded clay, slag, sawdust, etc. To prepare the mixture, I used cement, expanded clay and sand in a ratio of 1:4:1.
The hardest work is preparing the concrete. It is advisable to use a simple homemade concrete mixer or a ready-made commercial one.
Cinder blocks were and are one of the most popular materials for construction. various designs in construction. Their characteristic strength, as well as good thermal insulation properties make it possible to build quickly and relatively easily and quite cheaply. Both a professional and an inexperienced mason can build from them.
Profitability homemade cinder block no doubt, but are there really reliable ways to ensure consistently high quality at sufficiently high production volumes? Let's try to answer this question and consider the main methods homemade DIY cinder block.
Choosing a manufacturing method
Actually, there are not as many ways to make cinder blocks as there are devices for this. In all cases, cinder concrete must be mixed in a concrete mixer, and in no case by hand. At this stage, the sequence of adding ingredients, their proportions, duration and other mixing features play a role.
But for molding cinder blocks there is a large number of all kinds of matrices, presses and machines. In general, all production methods can be divided into:
- manual, when the mass is formed by compaction in single molds;
- partially mechanized, where manual lever presses;
- fully automated, based on vibration shrinkage or hydraulic pressing.
Obviously, mechanization makes it possible to increase the accuracy of production parameters, therefore lever pressing and vibration shrinkage methods are most preferable. Small hand tools will be relevant if you only need to produce a couple of hundred stones.
After molding and setting the mass, the cinder block must be removed from the mold. These actions should also be mechanized; most defects appear precisely at the planting stage. The simplest and most reliable devices for this are a lifting mold block and a damper.
Mechanisms can also be used for drying and storage. At a minimum, when moving raw material to the main drying site, it is preferable to use carts and manual forklifts.
Equipment: what to buy and what to make yourself
The desire to save money is quite reasonable, but there is equipment that is very difficult to assemble yourself and vice versa: you simply cannot buy some equipment.
The production cycle, we analyze it in stages
To prepare cinder concrete, you first need to mix bulk materials, then add water in small portions. You need to knead until the mixture acquires sufficient plasticity and stops crumbling if you squeeze it with your hands. It is better to add water using a spray bottle, gradually wetting the mixture until it becomes semi-dry.
The prepared mixture can be poured directly onto a cement floor or onto a hard sheet substrate near the machine. From there we scoop it up with a shovel and carefully fill out the form. Periodically, vibration shrinkage is used to compact the concrete and squeeze out large air bubbles. When the mold is filled to the brim with the mixture, it needs to be compacted.
In some machines, for this purpose, a response matrix is used with slight bending, with which the cinder block is compacted in vibration mode. In other cases, the same frame is connected to a system of levers and simply compresses the mass inside the mold. Upon completion of molding, you need to wait 5-10 seconds and remove the mold from the product, leaving it on the floor to pre-dry. If the molds are equipped with dampers, it is better to immediately lift the block and place the product on the pallet.
The cinder block takes from several hours to several days to dry. It all depends on the composition of the mixture and the technical equipment of the site. Subsequently, the products are carefully transported to the storage location, where they are stored.
What composition of slag concrete is optimal?
It is better to use granite screenings as the main filler. Its structure is small scales; this material is well bonded in the mass and gives excellent strength. A lighter, but not as hard cinder block is made from crushed slag from energy and metallurgy enterprises. The latter type is characterized by better thermal insulation properties.
Cement - only Portland grade not lower than 400. More precisely, cement grade 300 can also be used, but with an increase in its content by 15-25%.
Sand is used in cinder block to increase density, which is not always required. The material must be of quarry origin and must be washed. In total, sand in the total mass is up to 20%. The filler is mixed with cement 400 in a ratio of 8:1 or 9:1.
What else may be included:
- sawdust of all types;
- foam chips;
- brick, concrete battle;
- plasticizers and modifiers.
The use of the latter will ensure early setting of the mixture and relatively free setting of the products. It is also recommended to use additives to increase frost resistance. It will be useful to familiarize yourself with the standards set out in GOST 6133 as amended in 1999 - here are not only the requirements for raw materials, but also the rules for organizing production, some technical specifications and quality control methods.
Cinder block storage
The cinder block gains full hardness a few weeks after production. All this time it is exposed to natural street drying under a canopy. If there is no space for storing cinder blocks in one layer, it is permissible to stack pallets with one row of cinder blocks on top of each other. During the main drying period, it is important to ensure good ventilation of the stack and free removal of moisture.
After drying for two weeks, the cinder block can be stored without pallets, but be sure to at least cover it so that rainwater did not wash out the fastening agents. If you need a cinder block for your own construction, prepare it in advance: one winter in outdoor conditions and most of the defects will manifest themselves.
When pouring concrete, builders try to ensure complete penetration of the mass into all formwork cavities and prevent the formation of air bubbles inside. Under the pressure of its own weight, concrete becomes less fluid and may be distributed unevenly.
Another problem is poor wetting of the reinforcement. If air remains around the metal rods, the reinforcement actively corrodes, not to mention reducing the strength of the structure. Air cavities inside the concrete mass are great place for moisture condensation.
During frosts, the ice formed inside the monolith breaks the concrete with microcracks.
To minimize negative phenomena, vibrator seals are used. They are divided into several groups:
Surface vibrator
It is a plate or ruler that vibrates under the action of a mechanical device. The device is moved over the poured solution, compacting the surface and causing compaction of the deep layers. It is used when laying screeds of shallow depth, since vibrations in the concrete mass are transmitted over a short distance.
How to properly level concrete with a vibrating screed - practical advice
Deep (submersible) vibrator with mechanical drive
Based on the name, it works inside the mass of the solution, spreading vibrations throughout the entire depth. The effectiveness of such a device is an order of magnitude higher, since it covers all layers of concrete, and not just the surface.
Structurally, it consists of a submersible element, a motor and connecting hose, transmitting energy to the working tip.
Deep vibrator for concrete Sturm CV71101. We check the reliability of the vibrator in operation
The main difference from a mechanical one is that the drive is located directly in the working pin. The small electric motor does not have enough power, so it is powered by alternating current high frequency - several hundred Hz. For this purpose, high-frequency vibrators are equipped with a converter.
Despite the technological differences, the operating principle and tasks of all designs are the same. Under the influence of vibrations, the mass of concrete becomes fluid and penetrates into all cavities inside the formwork.
Wetting of the surface of the reinforcement is almost 100%, which ensures reliable protection from corrosion. When processed with a vibrator, air bubbles come to the surface, the mass becomes homogeneous and monolithic.
