First, let's figure out what a miter saw is and why it is needed. It is worth noting that, first of all, this is an electric tool designed for working with lumber. Secondly, the main feature of this tool is the ability to cut the ends of wooden parts at exactly the right angle.

Of course, such a tool is necessary to have in a carpentry workshop with large volumes of work. How to make such a tool yourself will be discussed in this article.

Preparing materials and tools to create a miter saw table

Once the decision has been made to produce the right tool, it is necessary to prepare everything necessary to complete this work in a short time and not clutter up the workshop with materials and tools.

INimportant to remember! How better materials, the more reliable the tool will turn out, and the cut on the wooden workpiece will be of better quality.

Drawing up a diagram

Before you start preparing to build a table for miter saw with your own hands, you need to decide what functions this tool should perform, and what additional functions may come in handy. Thus, a diagram of the device, its drawings and details are drawn up. And only then are drawings of each part drawn up.

Moreover important see the overall picture of the entire device, and not just the picture of each node.

Product assembly

It is recommended to start assembling the entire product by studying the drawings and all the parts necessary for assembling. It is also necessary to check the availability metalworking tools, without which it will be impossible to assemble the table. Important take into account the order of assembly of each unit. Descriptions of these nodes are given below.

We begin the manufacture of a table for a miter saw by assembling the base or platform on which the tool itself will be installed directly. The dimensions of this plate largely depend on the dimensions of the miter saw itself. Moreover, if we want to make a universal table so that it is possible to install other compatible tools on it, for example, such as a slotting machine, then the size is taken according to maximum size tool.

It is better to use 19 mm plywood as a material; if this is not available, you can use chipboard or MDF boards of suitable sizes, but plywood is more reliable.

1. Installation of side extensions. Quite often, parts are used that are much longer than the saw frame, and to process such parts, removable side extensions are installed. Moreover, you can use them both on the right and on the left of the bed. Extensions are usually made of the same material as the frame itself. That is, 19 mm plywood will be quite enough.
2. Upper shelves: an important detail of the table. In order for the part to be freely attached to the extension, as well as for more comfortable attachment of the extension itself to the frame, it is necessary to make upper shelves. They are attached with screws to both the frame and the extension. Shelves are also usually made from 19mm plywood. Important feature shelf is the presence of a tongue along the entire length of the part, 19 mm wide and 3 mm deep. Its purpose will be explained later.
3. The use of clamping plates. Clamping plates allow the most accurate and reliable alignment of the bed and extensions in width. To do this, it is best to use clamps that will tighten the extensions and the base of the table together. After such fixation, the extensions can be fixed to the base of the table.
4. Collaboration of machines. When several machines work together, as mentioned earlier, it is necessary to align their planes. If, for example, you want to use a slotting machine together with a miter saw, then it must be installed so that the working planes of both machines coincide. So it will be necessary to align the heights of both machines. They are the ones that are inserted into the tongues made in the shelves installed on the extensions.
5. Movable stops are also important. Mobile stops are designed for fixing parts using guide rails made of bars hard rocks tree. The quality of trimming of parts also largely depends on the quality of their manufacture.
6. How else can you use extensions? Extensions allow you to fasten parts of a sufficiently long length. In order to use them correctly, you need to reconfigure the table for such a part. Of course, this will take some time, but then it will pay off during production large quantity long-dimensional parts.

So, to summarize: you can make a table for a crosscut plate even in your home workshop. Moreover, the result of manufacturing parts on this table will be much better than on an ordinary workbench.

DIY miter saw table

Table for a miter saw - this is a device that serves as the basis for installing this type of saw, facilitating the execution of work on face machining various types materials as in strictly vertical plane, so not at the required angle.

What it is

Worker installation table miter saw carries within itself solid foundation, where this cutting tool is mounted, a miter saw. This design you will like is made of a metal profile of different sections of different metals, and additionally durable types plastic. Additional elements (side extensions, guide shelves and stops) can be made from lumber (board, plywood, chipboard or OSB board).

The dimensions of the table depend on the geometric dimensions of the material being cut (lumber, metallic profile, tubes as it is also called fittings). You will prefer a permanent design, also called sliding, which allows you to change the surface area of ​​the table, which also depends on the material being processed and the conditions of the work.

The table, based on the nature of the work being performed, you will like, is made of a stationary or portable installation, with a structure of legs that provides for installation on a flat horizontal surface located above the floor level.

DIY miter saw table

Read also

Support table, where there is an option to perform cross-cutting various materials by installing miter saw, buy in stores construction tools, where a wide range of similar products. However, there are times when it is not possible to buy what exactly is needed for the work process, then the question arises, how to do it yourself.

Initially, you need to answer several questions on which the parameters of the product being constructed depend on the material that will be used:

1. Where will it be installed?
2. At what level will we secure it to the floor, or other surface?
3. What material and what geometric dimensions are to be processed.
4. What type, method of fastening and geometric dimensions of the miter saw that is to be installed on the machine being manufactured table.

Preparatory stage

During this period, you should answer the questions described above as if for yourself, and then draw a sketch of the product being constructed.

Worker saw table Metabo KSU 400

VseInstruments.ru presents a review desktop For drank Metabo KSU 400.

Carrying out table manufacturing work

Of course, the frame will be made from a metal profile of various sections, available in the assortment set. The geometric dimensions of the frame depend on the available area where the equipment will be mounted, the dimensions of the miter saw and the type of installation (stationary or portable).

On the frame, it is necessary to provide for the installation site of the saw, which must correspond to the one in the assortment set (geometric dimensions, the height of one of the marks of a possible cut, the possibility of changing the spatial arrangement).

Read also

Regardless of the size and shape of the frame, it is necessary to provide for side extensions of the table, which can be made of durable plastic, sheet metal, or plywood. The presence of lateral extensions of the working surface will facilitate sawing of long-sized workpieces. If the side extensions are located below the level of the surface of the miter saw, then it is necessary to provide for the installation of special shelves along which the workpieces will move.

Not side stops will be useful, due to which, after fixing them, of course, a lot of workpieces will be trimmed according to established size. For stops use corners from different types metal, equipped with clamping elements, through which the stops are fixed on work surface, in addition, other elements (bosses, bars, etc.) made of wood, in other words, plastic, which, of course, are fixed on work surface table.

For the convenience of performing work with a large number of workpieces, it is necessary to make pressure plates. For this purpose you use sheet metal as it is also called a metal profile, which must be equipped with devices that allow them to be rigidly fixed on the desktop. This may be a bolted or other connection, at the same time one of the plates is placed under the surface of the table (lateral expansion), and the other above the surface of the workpieces. Compression is carried out by tightening the bolted or screw connection using nuts or shanks.

1. Produced by miter saw.
   When the frame manufacturing work is not additional elements completed, it is necessary to install the frame on the prepared surface without rigidly fixing it there. After this, perform the installation miter saw not manufactured additional elements.
2. Functionality check.
   As a result of installing the saw and other elements that facilitate work on this type of cutting tool, it is necessary to check its functionality.

If to check the saw it is enough to simply turn it on electrical network, then to check the ease of performing work on the manufactured table, it is necessary to perform certain work, trimming the prepared workpieces. Here you need to check that:

• The geometric dimensions of the table allow you to perform the entire set of operations that are supposed to be performed on this equipment;
• Table not a miter saw rigidly fixed along the floor as it is also called a different plane;
• The size of the extensions corresponds to the size of the blanks, they move easily and are not fixed;
• Setting the stops on the pressure plates is not hindered by any irregularities on the work surface table not frame elements.

The support table for the miter saw is a structural element that allows you to work with high performance labor ensuring the safe execution of processing operations various types materials.

Equip either machine with these simple extensions to support long workpieces equipped with movable stops.

PROJECT OVERVIEW

The base and side extensions are easy to fit to any miter saw or slotter. If you have both of these machines, you can make one pair of extensions to use with each machine.

Ideal for saving space in small workshops, the base and extensions are quickly fixed to the workbench and are easily removed when there is no work for them.

One movable stop for each machine can be installed on the left or right. The distance from the stop to the center of the machine can be changed in the range from 915 to 1525 mm.

1. Manufacturing of the platform base

Measure the width and depth of the base of your miter saw or slotter. If the machine table protrudes beyond the dimensions of the bed, measure the width of the table. Add 38mm to the depth and 178mm to the width to determine the width and length of platform base A as shown in the illustration. Then cut the bottom piece from 19mm MDF, plywood or plastic-coated chipboard to these dimensions.

Measure the height of the machine table and reduce this dimension by 19 mm to determine the width of the posts B. Cut two posts of this width and length equal to the width of the base A. Press the posts to the base with clamps, drill and countersink pilot holes through the base, then fasten the parts with screws. To use one pair of extensions for both machines, measure the height of each table. Reduce the largest dimension by 19 mm and cut out posts of this width for both platform bases.

2. How to make side extensions

Cut out the two lower parts C from 19 mm material according to the dimensions indicated in the figure. (If necessary, you can change the length of the extensions depending on your needs and space available.) To hang the extensions on the wall (when not in use), drill a 25mm hole in both pieces. Then cut six D posts, 152mm long and the same width as the B platform posts. Additionally, cut two F clamping plates of the same dimensions and set them aside. (These will be attached to the extensions in step 4.) Now clamp the posts to the bottom pieces with clamps, centering the middle posts, drill pilot holes, and install screws.

3. Add top shelves

Place the platform base on the workbench and place your machine on top, aligning it in the center. Place one of the extensions close to the platform as shown in the picture. Measure the distance from the outside of the far post D to the edge of the machine table. You-

cut the two upper shelves E of this length and width of 152 mm. To use extensions with both machines, measure the distance from the far counter to the edge of the table for each and cut the shelves to the smaller size.

Now, using a saw with a 19mm thick mortise blade, cut a 10mm deep tongue down the center of each shelf. Press the shelves onto the C/D extensions with clamps, drill holes, countersink them and secure the shelves to the stands with screws.

4. Install clamping plates

Place the extensions C/D/E close to the platform base A/B, aligning at the front. Take the clamping plates F cut earlier and attach them to inside platform B pillars, aligned with the leading edge as shown. Now squeeze pairs of adjacent posts B, D and clamping plates with clamps, drill holes through the upper shelves E, countersink them and secure the plates with screws.

5. Level and secure the machines

Attach the extensions to the platform base using clamps. Set the machine in place and level it in the middle of the width of the base. Holding a long, level bar against the standard machine stop, adjust the position of the machine to align the rear edge of the bar with the rear edges of the upper shelves E.

Make sure the edges of the planks and shelves are parallel. Now remove the strip and extensions. Mark the centers of the mounting holes for attaching the machine, remove the machine and drill holes in the platform base L. Countersink them from below and secure the machine with countersunk screws, adding washers and nuts.

To position the tables of both machines at the same height, cut out two wooden spacers, the width of which allows you to make mounting holes for the screws that will secure the machine with the lower table. Sharpen the spacers to a thickness that is equal to the difference in height of the two tables. Now, installing the machine with a low table, make holes. Secure the machine with screws, inserting spacers between it and the base.

6. Make movable stops

Determine the width of the miter saw fence G by measuring the distance from the front edge of one of the extensions to the front of the fence on the machine table. The width of the movable stop H for a slotting machine is determined by the distance from the front edge of the extension to the center of the bit. Measure the distance from the center of the table to the inside of the D-post closest to the platform base to determine the length of the sliding stops. Having found out the dimensions, cut out the fly from 19 mm material.

Then using sawing machine with a grooved disk, select tongues 3 mm deep on both sides of each part at a distance of 60 mm from the front edge and make dust-proof folds with a section of 3 × 3 mm at the top and bottom along each end. Now cut and sharpen two guide rails I measuring 11x19x305 mm from hardwood.

Measure the distance from the protruding end of the top shelf E to the inside of the post D, closest to the platform base, and file the guide rails to that length. Glue them into the tongues of the movable stops, aligning the ends with the shoulders of the dust-proof folds, as shown in the figure. Note. A la a slotting machine with front clamping of workpieces, you may need to make a cutout on the sliding stop that allows you to move the stop to the center of the table.

7. How to use extensions

First, fix the base-platform together with the machine with clamps on the workbench. Then install on both sides of the extensions, aligning them with the front edge of the platform and inserting the platform posts B between the extension posts D and the clamping plates F. Fix the extensions to the platform with clamps. If the mobile fence needs to be mounted further away from the machine, clamp both extensions with clamps, placing them on the same side of the platform, as shown in the photo. (In this example, the distance from the disc to the stop was 1620 mm.)

To work with the stops, simply insert the guide rail I into the tongue of the shelf E, move the stop to the desired position and fix its position with a clamp. If the fence needs to be positioned as far away from the machine as possible, slide the end of the fence that does not have a rail over the end of the extension. To change the fence from the right side to the left, simply turn it over.

Below are other entries on the topic “How to do it yourself - for a homeowner!”

Platform table for miter saw

Project overview

• Overall dimensions, mm: width - 1222 (3073 with extensions fully extended); depth - 508; height - 165.
• Weight about 26 kg.
• Necessary materials: one sheet of plywood 19 x 1220 x 2440 mm; one maple board 19x140x2440 mm; four galvanized pipes 3/4 inch 1085 mm each.
• Quick assembly using screws and glue.

First make the panels for the platform

1. Cut the top and bottom panels according to the dimensions indicated in the "List of Materials" A. Mark the centers of the four flange nut counterbore holes on the underside of the top panel (Fig. 1 And 2). Counterbore and drill holes, then insert M6 flange nuts.

Using a combination square, measure the height of the miter saw table while standing on a level surface.

2. To determine the width of the side handle supports B, measure the height of the miter saw table (photo A). In our case this size

equal to 90 mm. Then cut out the handle supports to the specified length and give them width in accordance with the measurements.

3. To make 25 x 190 mm slots in the handle supports, mark the centers of the 25 mm holes (Fig. 1). Use a Forstner drill to make holes, placing scraps underneath to prevent chipping. Finish the slots by sawing away the excess material between the holes with a jigsaw. Then rout 6mm fillets around the edges of the slots on both sides.

4. Glue the side handle supports IN to the top side of the top panel A (Fig. 2). Drill holes and screw in screws.

After bending business cards around both ends of the pipe, press the middle guide rail C and screw it to panel A.

5. Cut out the pipe guides WITH. Glue two of them to the top side of the bottom panel A. aligned to the edges (Fig. 1), secure with clamps, drill mounting holes and screw in screws. To attach the middle and inner rails, prepare 1085 mm lengths of 3/4-inch pipe (for extensions). Using thin cardboard tubes and spacers (business cards will work), position and install the middle rails (photo B) and do the same to mount the internal guides. The spacers will provide the clearance necessary for the pipes to slide freely between the guides.

6. Apply glue to the top side of the pipe guides WITH and press the top panel with clamps A/B to the bottom A/C. aligning their edges.

Add extension supports

1. For extension supports D cut four blanks measuring 152 x 508 mm. To determine their final width, place a miter saw on the top panel A. Place a long straight board rule on the saw table and support handles IN. so that its ends extend beyond the edges of the platform. Measure the distance from the rule to the underside of the bottom panel. File the support blanks D to this width and save the trimmings.

2. For marking on extension supports D the centers of the holes into which the ends of the pipes are inserted (Fig. 1), mark on one end of the bottom panel A centers of openings between pipe guides WITH. Draw center lines for the outer opening at the front and for the inner opening at the back.

Align the ends of the support D with the bottom panel A and transfer the center marks of the openings for the pipes.

Rotate the support 90°. Mark on its end the position of the underside of the top panel A.

Now, pressing the expansion support D edge to the bottom panel, extend the indicated center lines of the openings (photo C). Turn the support over to press it against both panels and the rule, and mark the position of the bottom of the top panel with a line on it. (photo D). This line defines the top edge of the pipe holes so that the top of the supports is flush with the surface of the miter saw table. Using a square, mark the crosshairs by drawing lines from the marks made on the support. Transfer these marks and draw lines on the remaining supports of the extensions.

Align the Forstner drill with the marking lines on support D. Drill 25mm holes in the outer supports and 28mm holes in the inner supports.

3. In the two outer supports of the extensions D use a Forstner drill to mark a hole with a diameter of 25 mm (photo E). Mark these parts as external. Insert a 28mm drill bit into the chuck and adjust the stop so that the cutting edge of the drill bit is aligned with the top line of the holes. Make holes in the two remaining supports. (Large holes will allow the extension supports to easily slide over the pipes.) Please note that the distance between the centers of the holes must be the same on all supports. When installing supports on pipes on both sides of the platform (Fig. 1) you will need to turn the ends of one pair of supports.

By drilling mounting holes through the edges of the two outer supports D and through steel pipes, screw in the screws.

4. Mill 6mm fillets on the edges of the inner support holes D (Fig. 1). Check how the pipes are inserted into the holes of the external supports. Use a round file or an electric drill to widen the holes if you want the pipe ends to fit snugly into them. To save correct position supports, do not touch the top edge of the holes with a file or sandpaper. Insert the pipes, align their ends flush with the outer side of the external supports, drill mounting holes to fix the pipes and screw in the screws (Fig. 2, photoF).

5. Cut out the folding stops E and drill 8mm holes in them (Fig. 1).

6. For attaching the folding stops to the external supports of the extensions D mark the center on the inside of each stop (Fig. 2). Pay attention to the different position of the holes in the right and left stops - they should be located at the front side of the platform table. After making the counterbores and drilling the holes, insert M6 flange nuts into them.

Completion

1. Cut out the stop strips F for installing the structure on sawhorses. Glue them underneath along the edges of the bottom panel A. leaving between them a distance corresponding to the thickness of the upper bar of saw goats (Fig. 1).

2. Sand all parts with 180 grit sandpaper and soften everything sharp corners and ribs. Remove sanding dust. If desired, apply a clear weatherproof coating. (We used two coats of oil varnish.)

3. Secure the folding stops E on external supports of extensions D screws M6 x 38 with handwheel, adding washers (Fig. 1). Use a marker with indelible ink to put a mark on the top of each pipe, departing from the end of 75 mm, indicating the maximum extension distance. Now put on the inner supports D on pipes (Fig. 1). Insert the pipes into the appropriate platform openings and secure them with the same handwheel screws, remembering to add washers.

4. Finally, place the platform table on the sawhorses and place the miter saw in the middle. Drill mounting holes and secure the machine using suitable hardware. Start new projects, because now you can conveniently and safely cut boards.

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Table for circular saw with your own hands

A circular saw is used to cut wood and plastic. Its cutting base is a flat metal disc with a serrated outer edge. When choosing such a tool, everyone decides for themselves what type they need: tabletop, manual, stationary. Many people prefer manual option. However, in some situations it is necessary to secure the saw. In this case, you can make a table for a circular saw with your own hands, having the opportunity to secure the tool if necessary.

Preparation of tools and materials

Having decided to make a table for a hand-held circular saw yourself, you need to make sure that you have all the materials necessary for the work:

• laminated plywood (9 or 11 mm), size 800 mm by 800 mm;
• 16 mm laminated chipboard or other sheet material suitable for making the body, sheet size 400 by 784 mm - 4 pieces;
• bars 40 by 40 mm (length depends on installation method);
• self-tapping screws;
• bolts.

Any hand-held circular saw will work for this table. It must be remembered that when attached to a table, the cutting depth decreases by 10-20 mm. So saws with small blades are not suitable for such a table.

Step-by-step instructions for assembling a table for a circular saw

1. Manufacturing of the body. Sheet material for the case it is cut to size: 400 mm by 800 mm. The parts are fastened using self-tapping screws and bars. It is better to carry out the assembly by first drilling out the external parts of the box. The result is a rectangular box without a bottom or lid. The upper part of the bars is subsequently used to secure the plywood sheet.

2. Preparing and securing the plywood top. Hole slot. First, a piece 800 mm by 80 mm is cut out of a sheet of plywood. Next, measurements are taken of the support shoe of the saw that will be mounted on the table top. On back side plywood performs marking. 2 central axles will be required. Without them, it is impossible to make accurate markings. Then marks are applied to the plywood corresponding to the dimensions of the support shoe. Then they take the same measurements as the circular saw: the diameter of the lower protective casing, its thickness, maximum distance from the edges of the support shoe. In accordance with the obtained dimensions, place marks and cut out a rectangular hole using a jigsaw.

3. Attaching the saw to the plywood table top. First, 4 holes are made in the shoe. Diameter - 10 mm. Next, install the tool so that the working part fits into the cut hole. When the saw is level, you need to mark the location of the holes. Marks are made in the central part. In order for the tool to stand securely, you will need plowshare bolts with a countersunk conical head (M8) for fastening. To install them, you will have to take care of the high-quality recess of the cap; it can protrude by a maximum of 1 mm when not tightened.

The plywood is drilled from the outside, the diameter of the resulting holes should be 8 mm, and then a countersink should be made for the head. When the holes are ready, the saw itself is installed on the cutting table for the circular saw, the bolts are tightened from the inside using nuts with plastic locks or spring washers.

4. Fastening the tabletop to the body. Start button. First, holes are made at a distance of 30 mm in the corners of the plywood tabletop. Then a hole is drilled in the central part of the bars. The parts are connected using an M8 18 mm steel fitting. The usual “Start-start” button is installed on the side. An electrical network is laid inside the case, and the button on the instrument itself is pressed.

5. Making a thrust beam. A simple table for a circular saw will become much more convenient if you equip it with a stop beam. Drawings contain everything required sizes. The beam can be made from plywood and secured using furniture guides full extension. The resulting beam should slide above the surface at an angle to the cutting plane with a slight gap.

6. Stop for longitudinal cuts. It is made from aluminum cornice. 150 mm from the edges, first drill holes for the bolts, and then draw 2 lines from the place where the bolts are attached to the center line. At the intersection and further towards the bolts, 12 mm holes are made at a distance of 30 mm. The bolts from below are tightened with nuts. And along the drawn lines they make slits in the tonic; their width can be seen in the photo.

Information on how to make a table for a circular saw can be seen in the video. This will help you quickly and easily improve the equipment of your workshop.

Video of making a circular table with your own hands

Nice thermal panel theme! Quickly warm and reliable! There are also thermal panels made of ceramic concrete that made the office simply cool.

I built a house from aerated concrete and am going to cover the outside with thermal panels. Who has already installed them? How are the results? Or maybe it’s easier and cheaper to do wet facade, although he doesn't.

thanks for detailed instructions! I have an old washing machine lying around at my dacha. It will be necessary to use the motor from it to create an emery machine. Unity

Interesting design solution I'll take note! The only thing I didn’t like from what I saw in the photo was that such tiles are used as a backsplash in the kitchen. Very good

This style reminded me very much of the film The Great Gatsby, in which the interiors of houses and apartments in the 1930s were decorated very luxuriously and pompously. Of course, this was a prerogative.

None wood work not without sawing. A manual circular saw is not very convenient for my tasks, and I have long had a desire to make a table for a circular saw. Because My workshop is small, so I needed a small table. Last week I finally made it. (“Laziness is the engine of progress” It was necessary to cut for the next wooden product, and I didn’t even want to start without it) It took 4 evenings to make the table with equipment.

The table turned out to be simple, but quite functional.
Table dimensions (W520 x D500 x H230 mm), crosscut sled (W580 x D170 x H 80mm)

emphasis for rip sawing.

For the countertop I managed to find a sheet at the market laminated plywood 9mm. What was very pleasing was that it was sawn off perfectly: all sides were strictly 90 o. I attached a Black&Decker CD601 manual circular saw to the tabletop. (1100 W, 5000 rpm, 170mm). The saw can change the depth and angle of the cut.

Having perfectly aligned the saw with one of the edges of the table, I attached it with M4 screws. To do this, I had to drill the iron base of the circular in four places.

In general, any circular table is suitable for installation on a table, but if you choose the type of fastening with screws to the base, then it is better to choose a model with iron base. The cast may crack.

There is another popular way to attach a circular table to a table without drilling holes in the base - attach it using clamps that fix the base, pressing it to the surface. Only this method did not seem to me to be correct enough in terms of accuracy and reliability of installation, and I did not use it.

Another important parameter of a manual circular saw is the ability to connect a vacuum cleaner. If you cut without a vacuum cleaner, fine wood dust rises into the air.

The base was made from 22mm chipboard panels. I chose the dimensions of the base so that equipment could be attached to the edge of the tabletop.

The disc sawed through to the top side of the tabletop. Height - 40mm (Bosh wood disc 160mm). The table top reduces the cutting depth by 9 mm. The cutting depth is set on the circular saw itself. It is convenient that the disk can be completely hidden in the table.

UPD: IMPORTANT! On a number of budget circular saws, it may turn out that the disk is at an imperceptible angle. And all cuts will be bevelled. Be sure to check with a tool square that the disk is at 90 degrees relative to the table surface. (before installing the saw, you can check the angle relative to the original platform. If the disk is not at a right angle and it is not possible to set the ideal angle of the site, you can place several strips of tin on one side under the platform, achieving an ideal angle (you can use washers for the screws that secure the saw to the table, but this solution is worse)

To make it more convenient to control the start of the saw, I installed a start button (it turned out that this is the most expensive part of my table :)

Inside the table I placed a socket for the saw, which will now be turned on by the start button.

To do this, the saw button on the handle was fixed with a coupler in the pressed position.

This is how you can connect a vacuum cleaner to the saw. In general, the table is ready and you can saw. (done in one evening and one morning).

Of course, it is possible to cut without equipment using slats and clamps, but it is inconvenient.

For cross sawing, I made these sleds.

This structure, pressing against the edges of the table and aligning itself with them, can move along saw blade. By pressing the rail against the sled, you can easily cut it exactly at 90 o. Thin pieces of wood can be placed inside the sled.

Evgeny Repin on December 16, 2014 05:52 (UTC)

The table is good, to be sure. Simple and reliable. I'll make one for myself. Slides for cross cutting are a must. And by the way, do you have any idea how it is possible to end on a mustache (45 degrees) on this table? A platband, a frame for a photo, but you never know what, where you need, washed it down with a mustache. A miter saw is expensive to buy. I tried cutting along the line manual circular saw, it seems to work out well, but it takes a lot of time to prepare one cut. So what do you recommend? I will be grateful.

markellov on December, 16, 2014 06:28 (UTC)

The sled helps a lot to quickly cut the slats. What used to be a long and tedious process is now over in a matter of minutes.

If you have a lot of sawing work at 45 degrees, you can make a special slide with a stop at 45.

Anton Sidorov on February 16, 2015 06:32 (UTC)

Thanks for the interesting content!

Following in your footsteps, I’m also making a saw table for CD601)
Can you tell me which start button you chose? otherwise I went to an electrician’s store, which confused me with the current, the power of the saw..

markellov on February 16, 2015 07:13 (UTC)

Glad it was useful!

If the model is written on the button, it is most likely on the back side. I won't be able to watch anymore. I bought by asking the seller about the permissible power. because saw 1.1 kW. One and a half kilowatts is enough.

Anton Sidorov on February 28, 2015 20:08 (UTC)

I bought a push-button post PKE 212-2UZ. And now I don’t understand how to connect.
Each button has 4 contacts.
I found this manual http://ceshka.ru/novosti/kak-podklyuchit-p uskatel
http://forum.woodtools.ru/index.php?topi c=33775.25
but here I understand that the magnetic starter is also used for 380V.
As I understand it, I don’t need it because... 220v.

Schematic diagram of PC http://www.kontaktor-m.ru/Catalogue/17/t mp2D-6.gif

Can you sketch out a diagram of how to connect? As I understand it, 1 contact Start must be connected to contact 3 Stop.

Yasha Kundin on February 25, 2016 18:57 (UTC)

He explained everything very well and clearly, thank you very much!
Can I ask how you are going to make sure that the side fence for rip sawing, while moving, always remains parallel to the disk? I'm trying to figure something out and don't understand how to do it.
Please share your wisdom.)))) If you can write on VKontakte, I will be grateful!

markellov on February 25, 2016 20:35 (UTC)

Of course, it would be better to draw this, but now I don’t have the strength.
I'll try in words.
Two furniture rails are attached under the table. A U-shaped structure is attached to them, which will extend to the right. A structure with a side support placed on the table is attached to a U-shaped bar that moves parallel to the disk. Whenever possible, I’ll model it in a 3D editor.

Maria Luchko on July 12, 2016 10:35 (UTC)
4 machines in 1

Circular cutter, edge trimmer, milling cutter, groove cutter
https://youtu.be/p1BSp9wpBgE

Edited at 2016-07-12 10:37 (UTC)

29MileEn on August 1, 2016 10:07 (UTC)

Good afternoon, Vladimir.

I found a site online that uses the material from your wonderful article without any reference to your original post: http://stanokgid.ru/osnastka/stol-dlya-c irkulyarnoi-pily-svoimi-rukami.html. Some corrections are noticeable, but photographs and general style one-on-one.
It seems to me that doing this is petty and lousy, so I decided to report it.
Perhaps you also published this because... there is no date or author indicated. If that's the case, well, then everything is fine.

markellov on August 1, 2016 11:10 (UTC)

No, this is not my article. I've encountered this many times before. Only illustrations are taken from my post. The article also uses illustrations and videos from other authors. I don’t see anything wrong with this if it helps someone make an instrument for themselves. Maybe something was taken from my article, but basically it describes the general stages of creating a table for a circular table.

My article had a main goal - to help other handicraftsmen make their own tools. If she helps by giving her pictures to another article that serves the same purpose, I will be only too happy. When they publish my materials and give me a link, I am grateful. If they don’t give it, I’m not at a loss.

In any case, thank you for your care and attention!

How to make a homemade one cross-cutting machine(trimming) on ​​wood with your own hands

The design of the miter saw is similar to a circular saw mounted above the workbench. Its main advantages: compactness and light weight. Thanks to this, saws are used not only in workshops, but also on construction sites. Unfortunately, homemade tools are quite bulky and heavy. They are convenient to operate in stationary mode.

The miter saw is designed for a single task - trimming the ends of lumber for different angles. Due to the fact that the workpiece is stationary on the table during cutting, the cut is neat and clean. Craftsmen who deal with wood processing prefer this particular tool. Moreover, self-made saws have been successfully used for years.

Trimming from a grinder

grinder miter saw

Technical characteristics of a cross-cutting machine with a broach, assembled by yourself:

• disk revolutions - 4500;
• cutting length - 350 mm (much higher than that of a middle-class factory tool).

The tool can be removed from the table and the grinder can be used for its normal purpose.

1. The rotary device of the tool is installed on the rotation axis car wheel(pin), it is held by a 150 mm ball bearing (if you can find more, it will do).
2. We weld lugs onto the outside of the bearing to secure it to the base. It is fixed using M6 screws.
3. To protect against chips, the clip is covered with a box.
4. We make the broach from shock absorbers from a truck (broken ones will do). Oil is poured out of them, holes are drilled for ventilation, which should be covered with a mesh to remove dust and chips.
5. To prevent a jerk from being felt when starting work, the saw is supplemented with a module soft start, which slightly reduces revving.
6. The last stage of work is the manufacture of protection for the disk.

• very noisy;
• to adjust the accuracy of wood cuts, trimming bars are used, after which the thrust is fixed rigidly and you can work clean.

Trimming from various scrap metal

trimming frame made of metal

This is a rather heavy trimming on a stationary metal table. It takes some effort to manage it. But in the end, the saw mechanism moves smoothly, without jerks, do-it-yourself trimming is easy.

• electric motor power - 2.2 kW;
• disk revolutions - 2800;
• cutting depth 80 mm.

Materials and tools required for assembly:

• 900 W electric motor;
• a metal sheet;
• metal corner;
• channel;
• hinge group;
• powerful spring;
• Bulgarian;
• welding machine;
• file.

The bed is made of adjustable supports, a metal corner and racks from an old bed. The working surface is a metal sheet like a table surface, in which we cut a hole, and process the edges with our own hands using a file.

• The pendulum stand for the saw is welded from a channel mounted on a sheet of metal; its height is about 80 cm.
• The stand for the electric motor is made in the form of a movable metal plate mounted on hinges. When installing an electric motor, a spring is used as a stabilizer. Then you can do without a pendulum and belts.
• The tension belts are adjusted with a conventional hinged bolt, and the pendulum for the mechanism is also made of metal.
• As an operating tool, a disk with a diameter of 420 mm is installed on the trimmer.

A miter saw is quite dangerous equipment; when assembling it with your own hands, you need to take care of protective boxes and covers. After all, errors during work homemade equipment significantly more than the factory one.

Advantages and disadvantages of homemade trims

• Making your own tools saves money. For example, about 500 rubles were spent on modifying the grinder. Price homemade table and saw mechanism is available to most craftsmen;
• main parameters: cutting depth, rotation speed, disk diameter, engine power, table dimensions, selected to suit your own needs;
• Having assembled the tool with your own hands, the master can easily find the cause of the problem and fix it.

• The service life of the tool depends on the quality of the source materials, and homemade products are usually assembled from all sorts of rubbish;
• trimmings homemade are rarely powerful enough. After all, for high-quality operation of the equipment, careful selection of parts is necessary;
• sometimes the money saved on purchasing a factory tool is spent on repairing and modifying a homemade one;
• craftsmen often skimp on their safety by not equipping the table and saw with protective devices;
• Factory saws are equipped with a graduated scale that accurately indicates the angle of cutting the wood. On home device it is difficult to construct such a mechanism.

A few more convenient and interesting homemade products, including excellent stationary, mobile and made in a couple of minutes from several plywood and screws.

The miter saw is made by many power tool companies. It is used in everyday life and by professionals. Therefore, the device has many varieties, differing in functionality, dimensions, power and price. When choosing a tool, each buyer is guided by his needs and capabilities. Someone needs trimming for infrequent use. For example, for carrying out renovations in an apartment or making wooden doors and windows in a country house. And someone uses a saw every day at work. Based on these requirements, a tool is selected for household or professional needs.

Appointment and use of miter saws

To manually cut the material at an angle, and even evenly, you need to put a lot of effort and use special devices. To make this process easier, electric miter saws were invented. They make it possible to cut workpieces exactly at the required angle and inclination. That is, you can change the angle both in the horizontal and vertical plane. The tool has found application among installers, carpenters and finishers. Miter saws are used to make furniture, doors, baseboards, windows, flooring and much more. The tool can cut not only wood, but also plastic and metal corners and pipes.

Using a miter saw is convenient, easy and fast.

Video: miter saw in action

Tool structure

Main elements of a miter saw:

1. Saw blade with protective cover.
2. Handle with start button.
3. Engine.
4. Longitudinal stop.
5. Bed.
6. Ruler.

Types of miter saws, what are the differences between them

All miter saws are divided into two types:

Miter saws are:

• household The materials from which they are made are not strong enough. Therefore, such devices are not suitable for everyday long-term use;
• professional. They have improved specifications and more functionality. Can work intensively every day.

Main selection criteria

Before going to the store and consulting with sellers, familiarize yourself with the parameters that you should rely on when purchasing a tool. And then you can rationally make your choice.

• power. Affects performance and speed. With its increase, the weight and cost of the tool increases. Household trimmers consume less energy than professional ones;
• disk size. It depends on the depth and speed of the cut. Also find out whether replacement discs for the selected tool model are available for sale;
• cutting parameters. Angle, width and depth. The saw should cut the workpiece at the angle required for your purposes, preferably in both directions. The manufacturer also indicates the maximum cutting depth when working at an angle of 45 and 90 degrees to the surface. The function of limiting the depth of cut is important. It is used when grooving and processing workpieces in thickness;
• horizontal stretching. Allows you to increase the cutting width by moving the cutting part in a horizontal plane. In one pass, you can cut a fairly wide workpiece.
• number of revolutions per minute. Affects the cleanliness of the cut and makes it possible to work with hard materials. The number of revolutions of 4000 or more is a very good indicator.
• engine's type:
  • collector It is necessary to check the armature regularly, but such a motor has more torque;
  • asynchronous. Works quieter and longer;
• type of transmission:
  • serrated No slipping under heavy loads;
  • belt It makes less noise and dampens vibration, but the belt breaks more often than the teeth of the gears wear out;
  • straight. There is no gearbox, fewer rubbing parts, but lower torque;
• rotating system design. She must:
  
• security systems. The miter saw must contain components that ensure safe use:
  

Reviews

Metabo KS 216 M Lasercut miter saw with 1350 W power

I was choosing between Makita. Metaba has a more convenient working handle and a laser. True, you need to get used to the laser, but it’s fine-tuned. I put a clean disc on aluminum and used it to saw and pieces of wood.
I'm happy, I recommend it.

Sakharov Sergey

https://market.yandex.ru/product/10575824/reviews?hid=91657&track=tabs

Trimming Makita saw LS0714 1010W

The device is made very high quality, there are no backlashes. I didn’t regret a single ruble. It can be transported without any problems in a passenger car; it can be carried in one hand. I saw her: laminate, door frame trim, lining, plastic, baseboards, moldings, she copes with everything with a bang if only there was a table on top

Popov Vasily

https://market.yandex.ru/product/1626905/reviews?hid=91657&track=tabs

DeWALT DW713 1600W Miter Saw

A decent saw for RUR 12,300, got it at a discount. I was choosing between Boches, but settled on this model. It’s just that in Boches, the price often increases due to the accessories included in them (a clamp, a rod supporting long parts, a laser sight). I like the weight, it’s average, I won’t say that it’s light, but it seems to me that this device easy and should not be, inspires confidence. It’s made very well, I really liked the angle adjustment, it’s easy and without any torsion, like the competitors. Big working surface. I was chasing the backlit model, and I’ll tell you it was worth it! The first day I worked late on the street, so I practically did not provide myself with additional lighting, because... the cutting line was always visible! I recommend XPS.
Just a wonderful original disc with big teeth! I immediately bought myself a Bosch disc for clean cutting of laminate rolled up in plastic, and so it lost cleanly to its original one! (I only had to use it to cut aluminum, which it did just fine).

Rozhkov Evgeniy

https://market.yandex.ru/product/2433397/reviews?hid=91657&track=tabs

Makita LS1018L 1430W Miter Saw

It smells very much like cheap Chinese stuff, but I bought it at Makita online with a discount for 26 thousand rubles (sanctions, damn it). Visually, the aluminum housing of the broaching mechanism is of low quality (cast, processed with a LARGE file and painted, the paint does not adhere well and peels off on a new tool). Rotary table smooth, milled, but where it is painted - the same story. 0 and corners are not set, as well as the laser (I had to do it myself, I lost 15 minutes). The angle scales are PRINTED AND GLUE, just like on the riobe. some of the sticker is removed from the new one, out of the box. Not compact - it takes up more than a meter (1080mm) of space when transported.

Vladimirovich Andrey

https://market.yandex.ru/product/7306437/reviews?hid=91657&track=tabs

Miter saw ZUBR ZPT-255–1800 PLR with a power of 1800 W

This is my first experience with such a tool.
I set the corners in 5 minutes using an ordinary square (on the forums they scare that you have to level the guides in inexpensive models almost with a file). And then the work went on.
The purchase is quite satisfied. If it weren’t for the laser, it would have been a 5...

Ivanov Oleg

https://market.yandex.ru/product/14178347/reviews?hid=91657&track=tabs

Tool setup and adjustment

Absolutely any saw needs pre-setting, regardless of the brand and model. It's like the first Maintenance. The main thing that is required from a saw is the accuracy of the angle at an angle and with a turn. Any saw can be modified, improved and its class increased. Remove any attachments or extensions from the tool, such as clamps. You will need a scalpel or a small knife with a stiff blade. Casting is accompanied by the formation of flash, which must be cut off if it interferes with maintenance.

Side stop

1. Raise the saw unit. Remove the side stop.
2. In some saws it does not have right angle with a bed. The stop contacts the base at two points. The bases of these points must be vertical to the surface. If there is no right angle due to uneven paint or a burr, sand base surfaces. First cut off the flash, if there is any.
3. Perform grinding on disk machine or at sandpaper. Place it on the table and rub the stop with longitudinal movements.
4. Make a small chamfer where it touches the base. So that the shavings that inevitably arise during sawing are hidden here. This is necessary so that the chips do not interfere with the formation desired angle cut.
5. Place the stop in place. The mounting holes of the stop are made oblong for adjustment. When installed, it can be moved back and forth and rotated.

Rotation fixation unit

Miter saws have two types of limbs. On one, the ruler is a removable element. On the other, it is not dismantled, and the dial itself has slots for frequently used angles.

The fixing rod has a conical sharpening and does not fit completely into the slots of the dial.

How to fix an arbitrary angle

There are situations when you need to set an angle that differs by 1-2 degrees from a fixed value. When setting such an angle, there is a breakdown and fixation of a value that we do not need. To prevent this from happening, you need to tighten the locking knob while pressing the key.

Setting an angle of 90 degrees in the horizontal plane

Most often, users apply a square to the disc and base. This is the wrong way for three reasons:

• When installing the equipment, debris could get in and the equipment was installed unevenly;
• the disk itself turned out to be deformed;
• when we apply a corner to the rig, a light load is enough to make the disc wobble a little.

Prepare a piece of plywood, a thin rail, a 10 mm thick rail and double-sided tape.

Exposing other angles

Setting for bevel cutting

Video: Setting up a miter saw

Possible malfunctions and repairs

Let's look at common faults.

Discrepancy of surfaces in the side stop

The surfaces of the side stop converge at some angle or are located in different planes. This greatly affects the cutting accuracy. When cutting from the right or left, different results are obtained.

Loss of sawing accuracy

It is necessary to identify a curved element: disk or flange. This operation cannot be performed by starting the engine from the mains. Firstly, you risk serious injury, and secondly, this method does not work when the engine is running.

1. Turn off the saw. Raise the protective cover.
2. Take a marker and place it on the side of the disk. Keep the marker straight. Rotate the disc until it reaches a full revolution.
3. Lock the spindle and loosen the disc. Rotate 180 degrees. Tighten it.
4. Take a marker of a different color and repeat drawing the circle next to the previous one.
5. Look where the half rings are located. If they are on the same part of the disk, then it is curved. Replace the drive with a new one. If the half rings are on opposite sides, then the problem is with the flange.
6. Remove disc and flange. The flange is a support washer that is mounted on the shaft along with the disk. The supporting and landing planes must be parallel. The supporting area is formed by turning.
7. With the blade and flange removed, the saw is completely safe. Run it from the network.
8. Take a simple pencil and touch the surface to feel if there is any runout. Do not do this with a metal object, as this will disrupt the precision of the surface treatment. If there is runout, then the shaft needs to be changed.
9. If there is no runout, then install the flange and tighten it with a screw. Again, take a pencil, start the saw and touch the flange. If runout is present, the flange must be machined.
10. To do this, take a block and a nail file. Secure the block with a clamp inside the casing. He will be a support. Start the engine and insert the tip of the saw into the block a little further from the flange. Gradually move the file towards the flange. This must be done carefully so that the nail file removes a small amount of metal. Place the file not flat, but with a curved part and start from the center to the periphery. This task is long and tedious, but it works 100%.

Engine and gearbox repair

The following factors indicate the presence of breakdowns in the engine or gearbox:

• The disk does not spin, but the engine is running;
• the smell of burning;
• sparking in the engine area;
• the saw does not gain power;
• the tool is unstable.

If at least one of these signs is present, proceed to analysis.

How to make an electric miter saw with your own hands

You can make a miter saw different ways. Let's consider options with a grinder and a manual circular saw.

From the Bulgarian

1. Remove the disc and additional handle from the grinder. Cut a sheet for the frame from a wooden or metal sheet. Metal is more suitable for an angle grinder. Weld a 30*30 mm pipe on both sides. Make an extension for the bed the same width. Weld a 25*25 mm pipe to it and insert it into the first pipe.
2. Take the legs for washing machine. Screw two nuts onto them. One small, the other elongated. So that the height of the legs is adjustable. Weld the legs at the corners of the frame.
3. Make metal fasteners on the gearbox housing of the angle grinder.
4. Assemble the swivel assembly from bicycle scrap metal.
5. Weld it with one end to the frame, and the other to the grinder.
6. Put a spring on the swivel assembly that tightens the pads. And a stopper so that the grinder does not fall back.

   Workbench under the saw: marking the drawing, installing trimming

   1. Make a stable table from a metal frame with a 40-50mm thick tabletop.
   2. From the edge or in the middle, measure the area that the saw will occupy. In free space, set the platform as high as the base of the saw.
   3. Make fasteners in the area under the saw
   4. Install the trim on the table and screw it on. On the platform, draw a line that will continue the side stop of the saw.
   5. Install and screw the square profile along this line.
   6. Set a ruler on the profile.

   Buy a miter saw according to your needs. Do not neglect its setting. This process is very precise and delicate. Approach him responsibly. Then you will receive a functional and durable tool.

Table For miter saw with your own hands (part 3/3) Miter Saw Station

Published: April 6 Do-it-yourself table for a hand-held circular saw: practical recommendations on production. DIY table for a hand-held circular saw. DIY guide ruler for a circular saw. Two thousand sixteen
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The final part on the miter saw table. DIY table for a hand-held circular saw before making a table for the saw. DIY table for a circular saw. DIY table for a circular saw. How to make a table. Made side supports protective screen made of plexiglass, supplied electricity to the saw.
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