Do-it-yourself wooden punt. Homemade plywood boats: easy to do! Plywood boat

However, the main dimensions of the vessel do not give a complete idea of the shape of its hull. The exact information about the shape of the body is given by theoretical drawing which is performed, as a rule, in three projections. In order to obtain these projections, the ship's hull is dissected by three mutually perpendicular planes: diametral (DP); main (OP), or water level plane (load waterline); cross-sectional plane, or simply a midsection frame. In accordance with the secant plane on which the image of the vessel is formed, the projection is called side (on the center plane), half-latitude (on the load waterline) or hull (on the midship frame). The reference planes on the basis of which the theoretical drawing of the vessel is obtained are shown in Fig. 2.

However, the projections obtained by cutting the body with only three main planes (Fig. 2) are clearly not enough to depict the shape of the body in detail, so another five to ten planes are drawn parallel to the main planes, the intersection of which with the body gives a number of projections. So, when the hull intersects with planes parallel to the DP, the contours of the vessel are obtained, called buttocks, parallel to the OP - waterlines, parallel - frames. Moreover, each of the projections on two planes has the form of straight lines, and on the third - an actual shape. Such theoretical drawings are necessary in cases where the housings have rounded shapes. For, in which both the bottom and sides are formed by the skin, the theoretical drawing is reduced to the projection of the lines of the keel, chine, upper edge of the side and outlines of the frames (Fig. 3).

The methods for constructing a theoretical drawing are common to any vessel, including a punt, so every shipbuilder should know the principles of its construction.

The choice of basic dimensions, as well as the shape of the hull, is the main and most difficult issue when designing a vessel. Solving this issue requires knowledge of the basics of ship theory (there is such a science) and the widespread use of statistical material. Simple and most Right way Make your work easier by using ready-made drawings of a suitable boat. You can analyze the characteristics of a number of boats as analogues and try to create your own design based on them. In any case, it is very useful to build a 1:10 or 1:5 scale model of the boat. In the process of creating such a model, a homemade shipbuilder will delve into the construction technology, see the future boat not only in the drawing plane, but also in space, and receive an additional incentive to build the boat and confidence in the success of the enterprise.

Table 1 shows the characteristics of common rowing boats.

Table 1. Rowing boats
Character ristics	Boat type
Character ristics	"Bull-2"	"Berezka"	"Okhtinka"	"Fofan-F2"	"Nerd"	"Wave"
Body contours*	ABOUT	ABOUT	ABOUT	ABOUT	\|_\|	o_o
Length, m	3,58	3,98	3,94	4,6	4	2,8
Width, m	1,48	1,14	1,17	1,22	1,27	1,04
Side height, m	0,50	0,47	0,39	0,47	0,38	0,28
Weight, kg	105	80	87	100	90	17
Capacity, persons	3	3	2	3	3	2
Housing material	Glass- plastic	Birch veneer on glue	Boards	Boards	Boards and plywood	Prore- zine fabric
Oars, pairs	1	1	1	2	1	1
Set- tion (payols, scoops)	+	+	+	+	+	+
* According to the contours of the hull, ships are divided into rounded (symbol O); U-shaped (U); V-shaped (V); flat-bottomed (\|_\|); sea sleigh (W); longitudinally and transversely stepped, or stepped (G); inflatable (o_o).

From Table 1 it is clear that the boats, despite big difference in length, the width is almost the same, which is caused by the need to install oarlocks at the optimal distance for rowing. The fact is that working with oars, for example. When the rowlocks are placed closer to each other, as on an inflatable boat, the “Volna” becomes less effective. The length of the two-seater boat “Okhtinka” is almost equal to the length of the three-seater boats “Bychok-2”, “Beryozka” and “Botnik”. Thus, we can conclude that there is simply nothing more convenient than a small, lightweight, simple punt boat with a hull sheathed from boards. I came to this conclusion several years ago when I was trying to solve a similar problem. Then I came across the description motor boat“Dragonfly”, which differs from other boats in that its bow was somewhat “cut off”, as a result of which it became shorter by about one spacing (the distance between the frames), the chine was close to the upper stern of the side at a considerable distance from the center plane, the bow had a slight deadrise the end of the hull turned into an almost flat bottom in the area of the midship frame. As stated in the description, the “Dragonfly” motor boat is designed for sailing on rivers and small lakes with an outboard motor of 10...12 hp. With. I built such a boat entirely from sheets of aluminum alloy D16 2 mm thick, and the Z-shaped frames were also made from these sheets. All connections are riveted. The seams were sealed with thickly ground white lead. The boat turned out wonderful. The two of us are on it with a 20 hp Whirlwind outboard motor. With. developed a speed of about 45...50 km/h. The boat moved quite well under oars, was maneuverable and had good stability. Its characteristics: length – 3550 mm; width – 1400 mm; side height – 450 mm; weight – 75...80 kg. In general, it turned out to be a good universal boat for two for sailing under oars or with an outboard motor. The theoretical drawing of the Dragonfly boat is shown in Fig. 3, and the values of the plaza ordinates are in Table 2. Let us recall that the plaza is the place where a theoretical life-size drawing of the ship is drawn, after which templates are made from the drawn parts, according to which the ship parts are made.

Table 2. Plaza ordinates of the motor boat “Dragonfly”
Frame No.	Height from Op, mm			Half-latitude from DP, mm
Frame No.	Keel	Cheekbone	Board	Cheekbone	Board
1	320	340	370	330	350
2	90	200	415	460	560
3	30	110	445	540	660
4	10	60	455	600	690
5	0	35	455	640	695
6	0	25	440	670	670
7	0	25	420	670	610
8	0	25	405	670	560

Please note that Table 2 does not show the plaza ordinates of the deck of the Dragonfly motor boat, which covered the first three spaces. The theoretical drawing shows the deck. It can be seen that it has an inclination towards the bow of the boat hull. The fact is that while moving, the bow of a motor boat rises somewhat and takes a horizontal position when the boat is planing.

Knowing the performance of the “Dragonfly” motor boat, taking into account the simplicity of its design and the manufacturability of its construction from sheet material, a rowing boat with a wooden frame and plywood hull sheathing with Lgab equal to 3050 mm was built in its likeness. The theoretical drawing of the “Dragonfly” was slightly changed (Fig. 4). The plasma ordinates are summarized in Table 3.

Table 3. Plaza ordinates of a two-seater rowing boat
Frame No.	Height from Op, mm			Half-latitude from DP, mm
Frame No.	Keel	Cheekbone	Board	Cheekbone	Board
1	400	430	450	330	350
2	140	270	450	440	500
3	50	150	450	530	610
4	0	30	450	600	700
5	0	30	450	600	700
6	0	30	450	580	680
7	10	40	450	530	630
8	70	100	450	470	570

As is known, according to the mode of movement, boats are divided into four types: floating, moving in transitional mode, planing and moving on hydrofoils. Since our rowboat was supposed to float and not plan, we raised the bottom at the stern a little. Otherwise (with a flat bottom of the stern and a wide transom), when the boat moves behind its stern, a passing flow of water would form, capable of providing significant resistance to the movement of the boat. For the same purpose, as well as to improve the maneuverability of the boat, the camber of the sides at the stern is similar to the camber on the fourth frame of the Dragonfly hull. We shortened the boat by 50 cm, and the side height became the same along the entire length of the boat. The steepness of the bow of the keel - the stem, as well as the deadrise of the bottom in the bow of the boat were increased. In terms of its dimensions, our boat became similar to the inflatable double boat “Volna”.

Here are the characteristics of our boat: length – 3050 mm; width – 1400 mm; side height – 450 mm; weight – 60...70 kg.

Our boat moved well under the oars. It turned out to be quite spacious and very convenient for fishing. It was not forbidden to install an outboard motor with a power of 5...8 liters. pp., for example, “Surf” or “Veterok-8”.

For a solo DIYer who prefers to relax on the water without companions, we recommend shortening the boat by one spacing, that is, by 50 cm. Then the length of the boat will be 2550 mm, and the result will be a good single-seater boat.

For both a two-seater boat and a single-seater, a slight decrease in half-latitude is permissible, for example, by 100 mm. As a result, the width of the boats will be 1200 mm, which is comparable to the width of the boats “Berezka”, “Okhtinka”, “Fofan-F2” and “Botnik” (see table 1).

So, we have decided on the outline of the boat's hull. Now you can start

A boat on the farm may be needed not only for fishing, hunting or recreation on the water. In sparsely populated regions with a developed network waterways a boat is a basic necessity, and in residential areas the production and rental of watercraft is a profitable business. Everyone knows how boatmen make money at resorts. However, in trade classifiers, small vessels are not classified as goods whose pricing is subject to regulation. Therefore, the question: is this even possible, and how to make a boat with your own hands is quite popular. The answer to the first question is clear: yes, and much simpler than is commonly believed. A good, roomy, reliable and seaworthy boat can be made away from the water without a boathouse or slipway, in any room of suitable size. And how - there is this article about this.

In the preparation of materials for this publication, great assistance was provided by the books “300 Tips on Boats, Boats and Motors” Compiled and scientific editor G. M. Novak L.

completion 1974, “Boats, boats and motors in questions and answers” Handbook, ed. G. M. Novak. L. Shipbuilding 1977 and “Kurbatov D. A. 15 projects of ships for amateur construction” L. Shipbuilding 1986. The author expresses deep gratitude to the authors of these informative manuals. Further in the hints for the illustrations they are designated “H74”, “H77” and “K.”, respectively. As for the years of publication, have the waters and winds changed since then? Today's ships are built and sail according to the same laws, only modern materials and computer technology makes it possible to use them more fully.

Organizational issues

The reader probably already has some questions: is it really that simple? Build it and float? With your wife, kids, passengers, at sea in a storm? Depending on the circumstances, you may need a wake on your rigid hull boat. documents and supplies:

A boat just for yourself, a small non-navigable body of water - sales receipts for the materials used in case you need to prove that they were not stolen. A small body of water is considered to be a body of water in which the distance from the shore is possible no more than 500 m, and the boat is only for one person;
A boat for yourself, a navigable body of water of any size - additionally a certificate of the right to operate a small boat (analogous to a license for motor transport) and a certificate of its registration. Both are issued by local transport (water) inspection authorities. There must be a sign on the side of the boat registration number in the prescribed form;

The same as in paragraphs. 1 and 2, the boat can have free passengers - except for the documents under paragraphs. 1 and 2 also a life jacket for each person on board and a mandatory minimum set of supplies, see below;
Everything is the same, but passengers or cargo are paid - additionally a license for the right to transport passengers or cargo by water;
Everything according to paragraphs. 1-4, sailing boat or sail-motor boat, incl. with a complete emergency sail - in addition, a yacht helmsman’s certificate or other certificate for the right to operate a sailing vessel;
The boat was made for sale, not serial - a license for the right to produce small watercraft.

It must be said that on non-navigable water bodies, violations under paragraphs. 1-3 are widespread, and in sparsely populated areas - endemic. The water inspection has neither the legal nor the organizational and technical capabilities to get there. Therefore, claims against the owner of the vessel arise or criminal prosecution begins only after the consequences of the accident.

What's a yes and a no?

Designs small vessels too many to count, but for a novice amateur when choosing a prototype need to be guided by the following. considerations that a homemade boat must satisfy:

The boat must be built according to a proven design and/or with full consideration of the vital provisions of the theory of the ship, the rules of shipbuilding and navigation, see below;
The boat must be reliable, i.e. strong, durable, stable, spacious in weight and volume, sufficiently seaworthy for the given sailing conditions and at the same time controllable in waves, currents in a river and in a shallow overgrown reservoir;

The boat must be light enough so that the owner can pull it ashore or launch it alone, and load it for transportation with an adult and moderately developed assistant;
The technology for building a boat should not include operations that require special qualifications or production equipment, but should forgive the mistakes of a beginner and the replacement of standard materials and manufacturing methods available in the given circumstances;
It is desirable that the boat can move well and stay on the wave with oars, under a motor and sail - to save fuel and have a complete beneficial rest;
The costs of building a boat should be minimal;
If the boat is stored away from a body of water, it is highly desirable that it meets the requirements for cartop vessels, i.e. allowed transportation on the top rack passenger car.

Based on all the qualities, in addition to the price of materials, the best choice for your first vessel would be a plywood boat. The boardwalk will cost approx. half the price, but it will be the same number of times heavier and will last much less, except for the option with a thin-walled steel bottom, see below. Homemade fiberglass boats are expensive and difficult to build, although they are reliable and durable. Taking into account all these conditions, the following are not considered further:

All-metal welded and riveted boats.
Planing ships.
Small pleasure catamarans.
Foam boats, plastic bottles, pontoon boats and planks of rectangular shape, etc. exotic.
Inflatable boat.

The reasons for this “truncation” are as follows. All-metal homemade vessels are not inspected or registered by transport inspection bodies due to the fact that it is technically impossible to ensure their proper reliability in makeshift conditions.

Building a speedboat is not for a beginner. The standard dynamic loads on the planing hull are high, and you can take it on after making sure that your first boat still floats well. Although, I must say, with some experience, at home it is quite possible to build a cartop boat that goes on planing on a small wave with an engine of only 3.5-6 hp, see for example. track. video.

Video: an example of a homemade planing boat and its testing

A small catamaran, let the reader know, is easier to build than a boat of equal capacity, and the restrictions on the choice of materials for it are softer; for example, polystyrene foam can be widely used. On the catamaran bridge (the platform connecting the float hulls) you can stand, walk, tumble as you please, you can put up a tent there and even cook a barbecue. However, a catamaran is not a boat and the issue of homemade catamarans requires separate consideration.

Exotic boats made from scrap materials are simply dangerous. For example, a monohull boat made of foam plastic will turn out to be either something extremely fragile, suitable for swimming only in a fenced “paddling pool”, or an almost uncontrollable raft, highly susceptible to drift by current or wind.

As for inflatable boats, the enthusiasm for them is explained, in addition to the possibility of carrying on oneself, by the fact that in order to register a purchased “rubber” boat on a navigable body of water, it is enough to present a manufacturer’s certificate, and even then the water inspection turns a blind eye to it. However, this in no way applies to homemade inflatable boats.

At the same time, it is enough to look at the patterns of a simple inflatable boat (see Fig.) to be convinced: properly gluing its seams in artisanal conditions is much more difficult than building a more spacious and reliable boat with a rigid hull, and quality materials for a soft plastic boat will cost much more than the best plywood and epoxy glue.

But the most important thing: without special equipment, it is generally impossible to reliably (without the possibility of inspection) glue safety bulkheads into the cylinder. A homemade “elastic band” will be single-cylinder: suddenly there is a hole, and you are not wearing a life jacket, it is far from the shore, or the pond is very overgrown - you will only have to mentally take stock of your life. For its end is near.

Note: if you absolutely want to glue your boat, not build it, then it’s better to make it from... scraps water pipes. Such a boat cannot be blown away and hidden in a backpack, but it will be unsinkable. How to make a boat from PVC pipes, see video below.

Video: example of a homemade boat made from PVC pipes

Which one should I do?

There are also many designs of plywood and plank boats that do not require production conditions for construction; People have been swimming since time immemorial. Let's try to decide how a novice shipbuilder/navigator can navigate this diversity. For example, boats such as a canoe (item 1 in the figure), kayak, canoes or domestic boats are very fast, very seaworthy and at the same time are not afraid of overgrown shallow waters. However, managing them requires not just experience, but great art. In terms of the number of drownings among beginners, canoe-type boats are firmly in the top ranking among small boats. In addition, such boats with a rigid skin are technologically complex, because their contours are double curvature.

The Russian fofan boat (pos. 2) is no less legendary in its reliability than the American dory (see below), but it is very stable, roomy, and can be driven by a green newbie. The twisted contours in the bow make the fofan well able to ride waves when fully loaded, and together with the “pot-bellied” hull, gentle contours in the stern and a recessed transom, it is capable of traveling quite quickly, up to 20 km/h or more, under a fairly powerful engine in transitional (semi-planing) conditions. ) mode. But, as we see, the contours of the fofan are also doubly curved, and it is heavy: to move the fofan, you need at least 2-3 strong men.

The Russian tuzik pleasure-fishing boat (item 3; Russian because there is also an American dinghi tuzik boat, see below) is light, but again with double-curvature contours. The same applies to the sea sailing boat, pos. 5, although under sail she stays steadily on course on a 4-point wave, and it is possible to pull her ashore alone.

Bend once!

So, we have decided on one more requirement for a homemade plywood boat: its contours must be single curvature, i.e. The surfaces forming the body must be curved planes. For small, quiet inland waters, the optimal choice would be a skiff-type punt boat, pos. 5. Scythians in such conditions have proven themselves to be the most reliable ships. In addition, skiff boats are cheap, easy to build, and lightweight: a 4-meter skiff with a galvanized bottom can be lifted and loaded by one person. An additional advantage for these sailing conditions is that the skiffs handle well in currents and in overgrown reservoirs. There is simply nothing for water or algae to grab onto.

Note: Contrary to popular belief, a skiff boat can sail perfectly, see below. But - only on calm water! In rough weather, the skiff, like any shallow-draft punt, becomes dangerous - the wave hits the bottom, knocking the ship off course and trying to capsize.

A little more difficult conditions sailing, in waves up to 2-3 points, a dinghy boat will be optimal. In appearance, dinghies can be easily recognized by the bow transom-forestpigel and the keeled (as they say, having a transverse V) bottom, pos. 6. The latter allows the dinghi to ascend the wave more easily, and the forespire makes the ratio of capacity to overall dimensions and dead weight of the dinghi almost a record. Thanks to this, the dinghi is the most popular weekend boat among residents of places remote from the water: a 2-3-seater dinghi on the top trunk fits into the dimensions of a passenger car, and can weigh less than 50 kg. Technologically, a dinghy is even simpler than a skiff - it can be assembled by sewing plywood (see below) simply on the floor of an apartment.

The sailing dinghy (item 7) is quite safe, but very nimble, and is therefore an excellent vessel for initial sailing training. Once you have learned how to control one, you can safely move on to the tiller/wheel and sheets of a large yacht. In the USSR, “Goldfish” dinghies were widely used to train teenage cadets in yacht clubs.

Note: in coastal areas you can often find seaworthy, sharp-nosed dingas. Outwardly, they look like a fofan compressed along its length (pos. 8), but in fact the hydrodynamics and mechanics of their hull are almost the same as those of a dinghy with a forespigel.

Finally, if you live by the sea or a large inland lake, know big water and want to finally build a boat for it with your own hands, then the choice should be a dory. Dory boats are truly ocean-going. Newfoundland fishermen have caught and continue to catch fish with them 280 and even 400 km from the coast. The seaworthiness and reliability of the dory are phenomenal: there are many cases where large, reliable ships were wrecked in a severe storm, and the dory then returned home safely in the same waters.

Dory boats are known in 2 modifications: purely rowing and sailing (pos. 9). To drive a bank dory, you need to be a thoroughly salted sailor since childhood, because... their static stability is low. A sailing dory is not so capricious; a beginner who knows the basics of how a vessel moves under sail can learn to sail it. In addition, it is possible to install a motor in a well on a sailing dory. Equipping a boat with a motor well is, of course, more difficult than strengthening the transom for the motor (see below), but the motor and propeller will be better protected from damage, and repairing the motor on the water will be possible without fear of drowning a part or tool.

Basic truths

To make a boat correctly, you need to choose a technically competent design suitable for the given sailing conditions and available resources. To choose a project, you need to know at least the very basics of ship theory, small shipbuilding, navigation and maritime practice on small ships. So let's start with theory.

Sales rate

The performance of a displacement vessel is determined by the Froude number Fr. Physically, it means that with an increase in Fr, the length of the bow wave of the ship increases rapidly, see figure:

Wherein most of engine power or sail thrust is spent on maintaining it. The engine goes into “fuel guzzling” mode, at the same time quickly burning its resource, and the sail, as a rule, is not capable of pulling the ship to Fr>0.3. Hence the important conclusion: do not try to increase the speed of the boat by installing an overly powerful motor on it. You will only make sailing more dangerous and waste your money on fuel. If the boat design does not indicate the recommended motor power, it can be determined from the table. on the trail. rice.

Moving at a value of Fr that is too high for a given hull is also dangerous: the boat may seem to be hanging on the crests of neighboring waves, or it will tend to slide back from the bow wave and bury its stern in the water. If, frightened by a wave rising in front of the bow, you sharply release the gas, the boat will be flooded from the stern by the next wave coming in: once formed, the waves move according to their own laws.

The energy consumption of the ship's propulsion for wave formation depends not only on the length, but also on the height of the waves generated. It can be reduced, firstly, by increasing the ratio of the length of the vessel to its width (the “length runs” rule), but at the same time its lateral stability and controllability are reduced. Secondly, the rational construction of the hull contours: its formation along the frames (see below) should be as flat as possible. Thirdly, with overlapping skin (see items 2 and 4 in the figure with types of boats). The ribs of the skin belts turbulize the boundary layer of water, preventing the bow wave from swelling too much. This, by the way, is one of the secrets of the excellent performance of the Viking warships, drakkars and augers. Unfortunately, the sheathing is technologically complex, susceptible to water leakage and therefore requires regular inspection and maintenance.

Stability

The stability of the vessel is distinguished between static (while stationary) and dynamic while underway. The stability of the vessel is determined by the interaction of the capsizing moment, the force of which is applied to the center of gravity, and the restoring moment, the force of which is applied to the center of buoyancy C - the geometric center of the submerged part of the vessel.

The amount of stability is determined by the elevation of the metacenter M above the center of gravity G (see figure). A ship with a large excess of M over G will be very stable, but also very rolly, with a sharp roll, i.e. overly stable. With a continuous increase in the roll angle Θ, the metacenter first “runs away” upward from the center of gravity and then moves back. When M is below G, the capsizing moment will exceed the righting moment and the ship will capsize. Resp. the angle Θ for decked ships is called the angle of decline. The critical list for undecked ships will be that at which the ship draws broadside. Then Θ is called the flood angle.

Stability rules are subject to the square-cube law. For small ships, this is, on the one hand, bad, because a small vessel turns out to be less stable than a large one of the same proportions. If a 5-meter boat sails with a critical list, then the list of a 20-meter schooner in the same wind will not be dangerous, and a 70-meter barque is almost invisible. When in the old days captains of sailing ships, trying to escape from a storm, ordered to “set sails as long as the masts can bear,” they knew what they were doing. But, on the other hand, for the same reason, the dynamic stability of a more or less regular small displacement vessel will be greater than the static one. In order for a boat, stable when parked, to capsize while moving, its designer will have to try very hard in the opposite sense.

Controllability

It is wrong to think that the ship turns by shifting the rudder. The ship turns the oncoming flow of water slanting towards its bow, and the rudder only helps it to stand under it, see fig. on right. There, however, with all due respect to the author of the original source, an inaccuracy crept in: what is designated as the center of gravity of the CG is actually a projection of the center of rotation of the CG vessel onto the main plane (see below). From here there is also an important conclusion: if the boat is poorly controlled, do not sin on the rudder feather being too small. His optimal area– approx. 3% of the cross-sectional area of the hull amidships, i.e. across at the widest part. Check and, if it does, then either you did something wrong, or you chose an unimportant project.

The position of the CV is determined by the interaction of the moments of forces applied to the CG and C already horizontally. In a perfectly controlled ship without heeling, the CG is located exactly above C, which is what designers strive for. Hence another important conclusion: do not get carried away with the roll. Romantic, but also dangerous, because... The ship's controllability decreases, which increases the risk of capsizing.

Sailing

Yachtsmen sometimes say: a sailing yacht is an airplane, one wing of which is in the air and the other in the water. In general this is correct. For diagrams explaining the principles of vessel movement under an oblique sail, see Fig. From there it is clear why you can sail against the wind. The first thing that is important here is that the CP and the CB are greatly spaced vertically, which creates a significant heeling moment. Hence the conclusion: if the design of the boat does not provide for sailing equipment, do not install a “homemade boat”. IN as a last resort and under completely favorable circumstances it is possible to construct an emergency sprint sail from a pair of oars and a cover or clothing. For example, the engine died, it’s a long way to the shore, you’re exhausted from rowing, but the wind is weak and the waves are insignificant.

The interaction of the thrust forces of the sail and the lateral resistance of a properly designed vessel also creates a moment that tends to bring it towards the wind, i.e. turn your nose directly into the wind. On the one hand, this is good, because if the ship turns out to be uncontrollable, it will take the wave on its bow, which is the least dangerous. But on the other hand, if the CPU moves too far ahead of the central steering system, the ship will become difficult to control or even uncontrollable: it will begin to drift towards the wind, no matter how you turn the tiller; It's not far from here to trouble.

The matter is complicated by the fact that when the course changes relative to the wind, both the CP and the central axis shift. If the CPU ends up behind the central station, the ship will begin to fall into the wind (“wants” to become its stern), which threatens disaster. Hence the most important conclusion: do not experiment with sails without proper knowledge of seamanship! You risk making an “overkill turn” in light winds on calm water!

So that a vessel without a large deadrise of the bottom and lines specially designed for sails can carry sailing rigs, lifting keels are used - centerboards - placed in centerboard wells, see fig. on right. If the project has a sail, but no centerboard drawings, we reject it, ignorant. Then, some amateurs try to adapt a flat-bottomed boat for sail by stuffing false keels and longitudinal steps from boards on the bottom, incorrectly called bottom stringers (which are actually parts of the hull). Technically, this is the same as cutting the wings off an airplane or trying to fit them, the tail, and the jet engine onto a bus.

Outlines and drawings

The main dimensions and characteristics of the vessel are given in pos. 1 Fig., and on pos. 2 – the main planes of his theoretical drawing. The midsection plane is indicated by a special squiggle icon. Pos. 3 shows how the theoretical drawing is constructed. Sectioning with diagonals and constructing fish are used in drawings of fairly large ships, carried out on a small scale, to verify the coincidence of lines. On theoretical drawings of small ships, instead of fish, they often give drill lines along the frames, see below.

Just by looking at the theoretical drawing you can estimate at what Froude numbers a given vessel can sail. For example, a boat at pos. 5 – semi-planing. Next you need to check the coincidence of the drawing lines:

The distances from the DP to the overhead line waterlines on the half-latitude projection must coincide with the distances from the DP to the frame lines on the hull projection, respectively. levels from OP. Taking into account the scale, because the body projection required for constructing patterns and frame templates is most often given on an enlarged scale (see item 4).
The distances from the OP to the buttocks must be equal to the distances from the OP to the lines of the frames and waterlines on the same cutting plane parallel to the DP, also taking into account the scale.

Next, you should evaluate the performance of the vessel: using the trapezoidal method, the cross-sectional areas of the underwater part are determined by frames and segments, respectively. lengths are laid out along the vertical axis, see fig. The distance between the segments (on the same scale) is one spacing, i.e. distance between sections along frames. The envelope of segments, the so-called. marching along the frames, should form a semi-contour of some streamlined body.

The formation of a formation along frames is similar to the application of the area rule in aviation. But, firstly, in incompressible water its effect affects any speeds, and not transonic ones. Secondly, the ship’s hull is only partially immersed in water and therefore excites gravitational waves rather than pressure waves in motion. Therefore, the formation along the frames should look like half of not a drop, but an ogive-shaped body, like an artillery shell. The flatter the line along the frames, the more efficient the ship will be, and a wide line indicates its good handling. The “tail” at the back indicates the ability to walk at significant Froude numbers, and the “beak” at the front indicates good ability to ride waves, but at the same time a tendency to yaw.

Note: In addition to the frames, the true contour of the inclined transom is built according to the theoretical drawing, see figure:

Materials

Wood and plywood

Basic construction materials for a boat require some pre-processing. To make a wooden boat last as long as possible, wood materials First you need to soak it generously with a water-soluble antiseptic (biocide) for wood. It won't be oily, it won't be exposed to air!

Plywood, incl. waterproof, impregnated in several stages with intermediate drying to avoid delamination. In the latter, only the glue is waterproof, and the wood veneer is as is. Next, in order to fix the biocide and reduce the swelling of the wood, the material is impregnated in the same way 2-3 times with a water-polymer emulsion. Unless otherwise specified in the project, the thickness of plywood for the sides of a boat up to 4 m long should be taken from 4 mm, for the bottom from 6 mm and for the transom from 12 mm; boards, depending on the type and quality of the wood, are three to four times more. The method of correct gluing of wooden parts and the permissible bending radii of the boards are given in Fig. higher. They are different from construction ones!

Sheets of plywood larger than 1550 mm are difficult to find, so they are glued together in advance into strips of the required length using a miter joint, see fig. It is impossible to learn how to accurately and accurately trim plywood from descriptions, so practice on scraps. We can only advise you to rough out the mustache with a plane, and finish it with a grinder or a smooth block wrapped in sandpaper. Glue the sheets with epoxy glue. The quality of the fastening is checked next. way:

Cut a strip approx. wide. 10 cm. This is almost always possible, because Curvilinear parts will be cut out.
The strip is brought into a ring and pulled together until the plywood bursts.
If the joint is of high quality, the plywood should crack anywhere except it.

Stacked boat hulls are assembled using red copper nails (you need to drill holes for them), galvanized or conical screws. Red copper nails are bitten and riveted into washers; galvanized ones are bent. Holes are drilled for the screws; their dimensions, methods of working with nails and fastening tables, see Fig.

Note: Lately, quite a lot of amateurs have been assembling boats using confirmed furniture screws, using the same technological techniques as when assembling cabinet furniture - cabinets, kitchen corners, etc. For now, these boats are floating, but not for long enough to judge their long-term reliability.

Fiberglass

Fiberglass glued with epoxy glue is widely used in small shipbuilding. But there are a lot of complaints about it: they say, I didn’t swim until the fall - it started leaking. The reason is the wax that is used to coat the fiberglass before it is spun and woven. Paraffin from fiberglass is removed by boiling in water. You can’t burn it, the fabric will become fragile! Boil the fiberglass cloth in a clean container for at least half an hour, then allow the container and contents to cool completely, remove the paraffin crust from the surface of the water, and only then remove the fiberglass cloth.

Techniques for working with fiberglass on fiberglass and wood are shown in Fig. Gluing set parts made of extruded polystyrene foam EPS – effective method increase the rigidity of the wooden body, slightly increasing its weight, and the assembly plywood boat Sewing with epoxy glue is technologically simple and produces a completely reliable vessel. The staples are made of copper wire with a diameter of 2-3 mm; the pitch of pairs of holes for them is 40-60 mm. Looking ahead, the technology for sewing boats from plywood on epoxy is as follows:

Cut out parts without allowance;
The edges are planed to form a wedge-shaped profile joint with a width of 1.5-2 mm at the base;
If the bottom is keeled, staple its parts together, place the blank on keel blocks (see below) and sew on the sides. The flat bottom is immediately placed on the trestles, the sides are sewn on;
Align the body along the contours (also see below) and fill the seams with glue from the inside;
After the glue has hardened, the seams are also sealed from the inside with 3 layers of fiberglass (see figure above). There is no need to remove the staples: firstly, the seam with them will be stronger, and secondly, the putty holes from the staples are a potential source of water leakage;
When the last sizing has hardened, the transoms (transom) are glued in the same way;
Remove the body from the keel blocks (traces), bite the brackets flush from the outside and cover the seams on the outside with 3 layers of fiberglass;
They glue into the hull the frames, centerboard well, cans (seats), breshtuk (see below), gunwale, fender beam, etc., which is necessary for the project;
They carry out additional equipment and finishing.

How to make a boat?

Sew

In projects of cartop dinghy and skiff boats, patterns of their parts are often given. In this case, the boat is assembled by sewing (stitching) on keel blocks or trestles, see fig. The dry-sewn body is aligned along the contours using templates and temporary mounting spacers. The seams of the sheets, being the most durable, are placed closer to the nose, as it is the most loaded and susceptible to damage.

We are building

The construction of a sharp-chine boat of greater than sewn capacity with single-curvature contours begins with the manufacture of the stem (see below) and the assembly of frame frames. The frames of sewn boats are often simply cut out of plywood (there are only 2-3 of them), but in this case it is uneconomical - too much of the rather expensive material will go to waste. The frames are assembled on the plaza, i.e. on a flat plane onto which the projections of the theoretical drawing on a scale of 1:1 are transferred. If the contours of the boat are simple and there is little space, only the hull projection can be transferred to the plaza. Methods for assembling frame frames, as strength, complexity and weight increase, are given in Fig. The grooves for the keel and stringers are selected in advance.

Next, the frame frames are placed on the frame (item a in the next figure), aligned vertically, along the contours, and the keel beam, stem (see below), fender beam and stringers are attached. After this, the body set is closed with a flat strip (pos. b). The purpose of the malkovka is, firstly, to create cuts in the keel beam, along which it will be planed to a given deadrise; secondly, check whether a section of double curvature has been tucked in somewhere, etc. trim the bottom edges of the floortimbers. Then the skin is applied, starting from the keel (below in the figure). After this, the body is removed from the frame, completed and equipped.

Note: Some amateurs, after the fry, are hacking against the rules of shipbuilding, removing the cutting of the skin from the milled set onto sheets of packaging cardboard. Then there is no need to suffer with geometry according to a theoretical drawing, and the boats float.

Nose

Forteven is the most loaded and important part of the hull set. One of the immutable rules of navigation safety says: if danger cannot be avoided, it must be taken on board. Therefore, the manufacture of a boat stem should be taken with full responsibility.

The designs of boat stems are shown in Fig. Waterstop plugs made of solid, non-rotting wood prevent water from seeping into the housing. In terms of reliability, all these designs are approximately the same. A stem with a false bow is used in cartop boats with a narrow stem.

In rough seas and when hitting obstacles, the stem experiences large dynamic loads that tend to push the hull apart, so it is reinforced with a bridge insert. Amateur shipbuilders often neglect it or do not even know what it is; This is one of the significant reasons that homemade boats last much less than the terms stated in the projects.

Stern

Another rather important part of the set, especially for a boat designed for a motor, is the transom. Transom design for motors up to 10-12 hp. is given in Fig. on right. The total thickness of the transom, with reinforcement, is from 40 mm. Possibly more: the mounting clamps on some outboard motors do not converge by less than 50-60 mm.

Unsinkability

A radical way to avoid the serious consequences of accidents on the water is an unsinkable boat. It is quite easy to make an undecked vessel with a displacement of up to 0.5 tons unsinkable: foam blocks are glued under the cans and along the sides from the inside; then, in the bow and stern, you can fence off the corresponding. forepeak and afterpeak and fill them with foam. Volume of unsinkable blocks in cubic meters. m is calculated by the formula V=1.2W(1+ρ), where W is the displacement in tons, 1 is the density of fresh water, ρ is the mass density of the foam. For example, if ρ=0.08 tf/cubic. m, then for a boat with a displacement of 0.25 tons you will need 0.324 cubic meters. m or 324 cu.m. dm foam plastic. It seems like a lot, but in a dinghy boat 3 m long, such a quantity can be accommodated without any noticeable deterioration in habitability.

Supply

The minimum set of mandatory equipment for a pleasure and fishing boat consists of oars, life jackets according to human capacity, an anchor on a chain or cable, a mooring line and, in case of sailing in the dark, a white bow or masthead (on the mast) all-round visibility navigation light. The latter is often neglected, which is unforgivable in our time: now there are autonomous LED lights the size of a child's fist with a built-in solar battery and battery. The anchor from this set deserves special attention.

Anchor

Joseph Conrad called anchors “honest pieces of iron,” and no wonder: an anchor may be the last chance to save the ship and the people on it. Small vessels are most often equipped with grapple anchors, but this is far from best option. First, cats often get stuck on rocks. There are grapple anchors on sale with legs that fold back during a sharp jerk, but they are unreliable: the vessel can spontaneously unmoor just when it needs to be firmly held on. Secondly, the cat, like the classic Admiralty anchor, becomes dangerous in shallow water: the ship can sit with its bottom on the arm of the anchor sticking up.

For small vessels, Hall and Matrosov anchors and lightweight Trident anchors with increased holding power are also produced. They are quite expensive, but you can’t make them yourself; you need cast parts. You can make a Kurbatov welded anchor yourself (see figure), it is suitable for boats up to 5 m long. If it is impossible or undesirable to weight the anchor with a chain, on rocky soils a weight is lowered to it along a cable on a pin (thin cable or thick fishing line). pig of 2-3 kg.

What if Kurbatov's anchor gets stuck in the rocks; the pig needs to be lifted before it can be freed. The anchor, which is completely stuck, is released with a strong sharp tug on the cable. In this case, parts 4 and 8 may be damaged, but in most cases they can be corrected right there with the help of a hammer and pliers.

About securing the anchor

During manufacturing, you need to insert an eye into the butt of the anchor - a steel ring that dangles freely in it. The eye is also supplied with the cud-tack - the attachment point for the anchor cable/chain to the hull of the vessel. Eyelets greatly reduce wear on the cable/chain and the likelihood of sudden breakage.

The chewing tack is attached to the outside of the stem. You need to attach the chewing tack lower, above the waterline. In this case, the boat at anchor will be able to play better on the wave, not bury its nose in the water during waves, and the likelihood of the anchor getting stuck is much reduced.

Examples of projects

There are enough good projects of cartop boats, dinghies and skiffs in RuNet and in general on the Internet. Therefore, we will focus on more spacious boat designs.

Scythian

The appearance, data and design of the skiff boat developed by D. A. Kurbatov, suitable for transportation on the top trunk of a passenger car, are given in Fig. Its distinctive feature is extreme cheapness: the main material is boards, and the bottom is small, i.e. monkeys. If you choose the right boards for the bottom (highlighted in red in the next figure), then the plank bottom will be quite reliable. Moreover, these days the seams between the boards can be caulked with construction deformation cord (used to seal cracks in concrete) and silicone sealant. Of course, the bottom of this boat can also be made of plywood, then its weight will be reduced to 70-80 kg.

On the trail. rice. Drawings of the parts of this boat are given and a method of assembling it is shown, which is also very economical: on a simplified slipway using templates. Under the motor, the transom is strengthened as described above.

Next in Fig. the sailing rig of this boat and drawings of the oars for it are shown. The sail is a rack sail (emphasis on the “o”), you can learn how to handle it in half an hour or an hour, without knowing any theory at all. But – don’t set this sail in a fresh and stronger wind! The CPU of a rack sail is significantly higher, it heels the boat more, and it is a punt!

As for the oars, it is better to make them exactly according to the drawing. Scythian boats move very easily without oars, therefore, to save the rower's muscular efforts, the configuration of the oars and the profile of their blades become of great importance.

About the iron day

Skiff boats are sometimes made with a bottom made of galvanized iron. Firstly, such a boat with plywood sides weighs only approx. 50 kg or less, i.e. you can move it any way you want alone. Secondly, a boat with a steel bottom turns out to be much more durable in reservoirs with an acidic water reaction, of which there are more than enough in the Russian Federation: ions of even very weak acids spoil the glue and protective coatings. Homemade boats with a steel bottom have one disadvantage: it is useless to submit them for inspection for the purpose of registration, and they will not be examined.

Dory

The same author also developed the project sailboat plywood dory, see pic; According to the table of plaza ordinates, the sheathing is cut, but, see above. In shallow sea waters with a short, steep “angry” wave (Azov, the north of the Caspian Sea, the Marquis Puddle in the Baltic), this boat showed itself better than a sea dinghy or an Azov longboat.

Below in Fig. a structural drawing of the boat is given, the method of its construction on a slipway, the design of the stem and the method of inserting the longitudinal parts of the kit are shown. Wood must be of high quality, without knots or defects, because... wooden parts sets are prestressed during assembly.

On the trail. Figure shows drawings of the dory's sailing rig. Since a dory can be sailed in quite strong winds, provision is made for taking one reef on the sail. Observe the specified dimensions exactly: dory boats are very critical to the relative position of the CPU and central nervous system!

Finally

After swimming, especially in cool weather, you want, need and benefit from eating and sipping something hot. Not intoxicating, on the water you must follow the dry law. Therefore, in conclusion, we provide drawings of a stove - a boat and yacht stove, which can also be useful at the dacha, picnic and in general on the farm.

vopros-remont.ru

We make a small-sized watercraft

Note. We will not consider a specific design, for example, do-it-yourself drawings of a folding plywood boat.
Our goal is to tell you about the general principles and methods of making small watercraft.

Required materials and tools

Plywood selection:

to make a boat from plywood with your own hands, you will naturally need this same plywood, only of different thicknesses;
for the hull you will need a sheet thickness of 5 mm, but for the keel and frame you will need 10-15 mm of thickness (select the length of the panel depending on the length of the hull);
as you understand, high-quality products are needed here, therefore, you will have to choose either elite E or 1st grade for work - the price, of course, will be higher, but the quality will rise along with it;
In addition, the impregnation of wood veneer is important, on which the waterproofness and strength of plywood depends - the best brands here can be called FSF or FSF-TV (flammable), FB and BS (aviation - also used in shipbuilding).

Solid wood:

to decorate the sides, install seats and arrange spacers inside the boat hull, you will need solid wood;
best suited for this purpose edged board made of pine - it is lighter than larch, but due to its resin content, it tolerates wetness well.

Suture material:

to tighten the body and connect other parts into a solid structure, you will need suture material;
for this you can use thin knitting steel or copper wire, thick nylon fishing line or plastic clamps.

Sealing:

in order to prevent the boat from leaking, all seams must be sealed with water-repellent glue - on this moment there are a lot of them sold;
as practice shows, compositions based on polymer resins are best suited for this purpose;
To seal seams, fiberglass is also used - a tape made from it is placed on the glue along the joint;
You can also use fiberglass for this purpose, covering the sides and bottom with it;
to protect against swelling, water-repellent varnishes and adhesives are used, impregnating the body and jumpers with them - for this you can, for example, use bakelite varnish or glue;
in addition to impregnation, you will also need polymer paint, which will complement moisture resistance and decorate your boat.

Tools:

to make a boat with your own hands from plywood, you will, of course, need tools and, first of all, this Circular Saw and/or electric jigsaw(a hacksaw will also come in handy);
a set of hand carpentry tools in the form of a hammer, chisels, pliers, etc.;
disc or belt sanding machine;
tape or steel clamps;
paint brushes for applying impregnations and paints and varnishes.

Select a drawing

Important!
Before you start assembling, find the drawings that are suitable for your case - how to make a boat from plywood with your own hands, it could be a flat-bottomed fishing boat that you will use on weekends or a kayak for hiking during your vacation.
But if you are already experienced in “shipbuilding”, then you can try to draw such a project yourself, but here it is very important to calculate the carrying capacity so that the watercraft does not capsize during operation.

So, if you know specifically for what purpose you need a boat, then you can search in specialized literature, magazines, the Internet, or draw up a drawing yourself for making a boat from plywood with your own hands, which will suit you best. When the choice is made, do not rush to immediately draw the outlines of the part on plywood or board - first make paper templates of all the parts in accordance with the dimensions of the project you have chosen.

Of course, it is best if you use solid material to make parts, but, unfortunately, it is not always possible to choose a sheet of the required length. Then the two blanks are glued together, as shown in the top image. The main requirement for forming a joint is that the length of the oblique cut be approximately 7-10 times greater than the thickness of the workpiece.

For example, if this is a side part and you are using 5 mm thick plywood there, then the cut length should be from 35 mm to 50 mm. To make the connection strong, it is smeared with glue and clamped with clamps for the period of final hardening of the composition you are using (the manufacturer always provides instructions indicating the hardening time).

While the connected blanks are drying, you can start preparing wooden blocks from which, according to your drawing, the frame of the future watercraft will be made.

Recommendation. It should be noted that it is very inconvenient to assemble plywood boat projects with your own hands on the floor or on the ground.
Therefore, to make assembly easier, you can make the sawhorse 60-80 cm high (depending on your height).
For this design, 50x50 mm bars are suitable.

Assembling the body

We will assume that you have already cut out the paper templates and now transfer them to wood - plywood and boards. To prevent the template from moving when tracing the contours, you can fix it with buttons or even with office glue, which you can then wash off or clean sandpaper.

Please note that the maximum tolerance for dimensional error can be no more than a millimeter in one direction or the other. Otherwise, the details simply won't fit.

Cut out the parts with a hacksaw, circular saw or jigsaw, and then glue the transom parts and frames to obtain the desired thickness and strength. You will likely notice that the glued parts have an unusually large mass, but this is not significant for the project as a whole.

If you plan to use a motor for the boat, then the transom stern should be reinforced with fiberglass, and the edges should be boarded with hard wood, for example, larch.

Recommendation. To increase the strength of the joints of transoms and frames, the joints can be reinforced with self-tapping screws with an anti-corrosion coating.
But the length of the screw should be such that it cannot pierce the part through, that is, it should be a little shorter.

Now install the transom on the trestles and begin to attach to it the prepared parts for the sides and bottom, which are brought together in one place on the bow of the boat. Fastening the parts, as you already understood, is done using your suture material. It is very important that all the joints fit together, and if you cut them correctly, then there should be no problems.

In this case, for gluing the seams, epoxy resin and silicon dioxide were used in a ratio of 1/1, with the consistency of thick sour cream. Corner joints are reinforced with fillets in the form of a triangular profile.

After the seams, sealed with fiberglass inside and outside, have dried, we insert and glue the frames (the glue remains the same). If the width of the boat is large, then the connection of the frames can be reinforced with overlapping fiberglass strips.

After this, we lay flooring from boards on the bottom of the boat, and also install rowlocks and seats. In cases where the do-it-yourself plywood boat pattern drawings on a watercraft provide for a cockpit or a cover to create a niche in the bow, then this part is fixed with glue or self-tapping screws to the sides and frames.

Now you need to wait until everything assembled structure will dry completely. After which the boat is turned upside down (on trestles or placed on the ground) and the entire surface is sanded from the outside using a disk or belt sander.

By the way, the seams are sealed with fiberglass on the outside after sanding. wooden surface. And, although this type of work has already been mentioned, it is performed in advance only on sanded plywood of the Sh1 or Sh2 type.

Now you can begin impregnation and painting work. Targeted preparations for marine and river structures from the company Tikkurila are quite suitable for impregnation. The entire surface is puttied with a special primer, so that the seams are not visible. After this, you can paint the boat in the color you like.

Conclusion

If you are punctual, that is, you strictly adhere to the dimensions specified in the project, then everything should work out for you. If you have any thematic questions, you can write to us about it in the comments.

rubankom.com

Dimensions and drawings

The first thing to do is decide on the size of the boat. We will make a boat 3000 mm long, 1400 mm wide and 500 mm high.
Let's decide on the length of the frame base. To do this, we need to know the length of the boat, two angles a and b, and the height of the boat.

We know the length and height - 3000mm and 500mm. Angle a - 100, angle b - 120.

Knowing these values, we calculate the length of the frame base.

L=3000-(h*tg(a-90)+h*tg(b-90))=2623, where h is the height of the boat

Now let's find the length of the bow and transom. Since they are inclined, their length will be greater than the height of the boat.

Transom L= √(〖(h*tg(a-90))〗^2+h^2)=508

Nose L= √(〖(h*tg(b-90))〗^2+h^2)=577

You need to decide on the width of the bottom. Let's take half the width of the boat - 700 mm. The lower transom width will be 10% smaller, i.e. 630 mm. The boat reaches its maximum width 1/3 from the transom.

In our case, the maximum width will be at a distance of 1000 mm from the end of the boat. Thus, we transform the beam so that the maximum bend is at the point 1/3 * the length of the boat from the transom.

The length of the plywood for the side will be equal to the length of the transformed beams (upper and lower, respectively). The width will be equal to the length of the bow on one side and the length of the transom on the other.

Other sizes depend on the situation.

Boat frame

The basis will be timber 50*50*2523 mm. We screw a 50*50*630 mm transom to it on one side, at an angle of 90 degrees. We screw the deformed beams from the ends of the transom to the bow (the maximum convexity of the beam is 1000 mm from the transom).

We make 6 equally spaced cuts along the entire base (from the bottom side). The dimensions of the cutouts are 50*25 mm. We insert 6 beams 25*25 mm along the cutouts. We attach them to the base and side beams. The lower part of the frame is ready.

We screw on the bow and transom. Between the bow and the transom we again attach the deformed beams, but now along the top. The distance between the side beams is 500 mm in height and 350 mm in width. In fact, our sides are located at an angle to the base (an angle of approximately 120 degrees at the point of maximum convexity).

Making a frame for the sides

Note. Pay attention to how the beams are screwed: from the edge of the top to the edge of the bottom beam. It is important!
For this we use 25*25 mm timber.

Frame covering

We fasten the plywood to the beams with self-tapping screws 20 mm long. First we attach the sides. The plywood should fit snugly to the frame.

samodelkifish.ru

DIY boat made of plywood

A small watercraft that can carry 2-3 anglers on board, and is not heavy, can easily be made from plywood, as one of the most affordable building materials. Moreover, the boat can move both with the help of oars and with the help of outboard motor or sails. This does not require special professional training, which is quite feasible even for beginners.

Plywood is a strong enough material to build a small boat, not to mention expensive yachts, where plywood is also widely used in their manufacture. In addition, it is easy to process using electrical or manual tools.

In addition, if you install a motor on such a boat, it can develop a respectable speed with good performance characteristics. In addition, a plywood boat is much more reliable than an inflatable boat.

Materials and tools

Firstly, you will have to select an appropriately sized room where the boat could freely fit. It is advisable that the room be heated, since all work can take place in winter. In the summer, it’s unlikely that anyone will start building a boat: in the summer you already need to sail on it. Moreover, the room must be ventilated, with the ability to maintain optimal temperature regime. Since you will have to work with wood, the humidity must be optimal.

To draw a diagram, you need to have:

drawing supplies;
pencils;
elastic bands;
patterns;
rulers and triangles;
line;
cardboard and drawing paper;
paper glue;
calculator.

At the construction stage you will need:

jigsaw;
hammer;
axe;
clamps (up to 10 pieces, no less);
brushes, spatulas (metal and rubber);
screwdriver;
electric and manual plane;
screwdrivers;
chisels;
stapler;
circular and hand saw.

Materials for manufacturing can be:

plywood (sheet 1.5x1.5 meters), thickness 4-5 mm;
pine or oak boards;
fiberglass for covering the boat hull;
putty for filling cracks;
waterproof glue;
drying oil or water-repellent impregnation for wood;
oil paint or waterproof enamel;
nails, screws, self-tapping screws;
metal strip, metal for various fasteners.

Main dimensions of the boat

If you use plywood with a thickness of 5 mm, then its optimal dimensions will be:

The total length of the craft is 4.5 meters.
The width of the craft (at its widest point) is 1.05 m.
The depth of the boat is 0.4 meters.

What is the boat made of?

The boat consists of a key element - the keel, which serves as the base and to which other elements of the boat are attached. The bow of the boat is called the stem and with reverse side there is a sternpost. With the help of these components, the boat is given longitudinal rigidity. Such structural parts can be made from a single piece of wood or individual components connected by gluing, as well as nailed or twisted with screws.

The shape of the hull is determined by the presence of transverse load-bearing elements called frames. The planks connected to the frames, stem and stern post form the sides of the boat.

If you cover this frame with plywood, you will get a boat. A deck is laid inside the boat - a slant, which is the lower deck to protect the bottom of the boat.

Plywood boats for motors

Motor boats are not particularly different in their design considerations compared to boats designed to be propelled by oars or sail. The only difference is in the organization of the place for mounting the engine. As a rule, a transom board is attached to the stern, where the outboard motor is installed.

Certain designs of small vessels are equipped with other elements, such as a cockpit, deck stringers, side stringers, etc. To improve stability and unsinkability, special gaps are provided in the craft, which are filled polyurethane foam. This approach eliminates the possibility of flooding the boat if it capsizes.

Working drawings of the boat

All work on building a boat begins with drawings, which must be drawn up professionally. If this is not possible, then you can turn to the Internet for help, where you can find ready-made drawings. The main thing is that they correspond to the basic imaginations. But even here you need to be careful not to miss the main stages of assembling the boat and making additional components.

As a rule, most drawings are drawn on graph paper. This will make it possible to calculate in detail all the structural components.

A large sketch of the drawing can be drawn using the following algorithm:

A line is drawn that conditionally divides the boat into two parts. This takes into account the fact that the two parts, left and right, must be symmetrical and absolutely identical.
The drawn line is divided into several equal segments. Subsequently, frames will be installed in these areas.
Both a vertical display and a top projection are drawn.
The shapes of the frames are drawn using the transverse marks.
The main dimensions of all components are checked to scale.
The shape of the frames is drawn on a scale of 1:1 on cardboard or thick paper.
Flexible lines of the boat shape are drawn using a ruler or pattern.

The resulting drawing is folded along the drawn line to check for symmetry. Both parts must flawlessly repeat each other.

Transferring a design to a wooden piece

After once again checking the drawings for correctness, they are transferred to cardboard. Thick and rigid paper will make it easier to transfer the drawings to the workpieces. The drawing is transferred to the workpiece, taking into account all the contours and contours exactly as it was drawn, without all kinds of overlaps, reductions and increases in size.

When copying designs, take into account the direction of the wood grain. In this case, it all depends on the design of the boat elements. If the element is made of plywood, then the layers of plywood themselves are arranged in such a way that the fibers of each subsequent layer are perpendicular to the previous layer.

As for making futoxas, they can be made larger in height, since they can then be trimmed.

Technological stages of production

To build a plywood boat with your own hands, you need to follow these steps:

transfer the drawing to the template;
transfer drawings from templates to wood;
install the keel and secure the stem;
secure the frames;
secure the sternpost and transom board (for the motor);
cover the bottom with plywood;
trim the sides;
seal joints and stringers;
putty and paint the boat hull.

Boat hull

The frame of the boat and its hull are assembled from prepared parts. The assembly process must be carried out carefully and carefully, in all planes.

The frames are first pre-attached to the keel and only after the next inspection are they finally secured. Moreover, the fastening must be reliable, since the boat will have to be turned over before covering it with plywood.

Assembling the inner contour of the futox

The strength of the structure, including the sides, depends on how securely the footoxes are fastened. Footoxes are integral part frame design, which consists of floortimber and two futox.

Floor timber is the lower part of the frame, which is designed to be attached to the keel. Futoxes are the side parts of the frames to which the sides of the boat are attached. The places where the futox and flortimber are attached are structurally made somewhat wider, which increases the stability of the entire structure. This is especially important for watercraft where engines will be installed, which increase the load on the structure in general and during movement in particular.

Material for stem

The stem has a complex shape, which is due to the loads acting on it during the movement of the boat. One of the most suitable materials oak can be used to make it, but, in extreme cases, elm can also be used.

You will be lucky if you can find a piece of suitable wood that has a natural bend. If this is not possible, then you can make a stem from individual elements, by gluing method. If you want to have a solid structure, then you need to take an ax and other tools and cut it out according to the shape of the boat.

Keel design

The keel is the simplest component of the boat design, and is a typical board, 25-30 mm thick and 3.5 m long.

Side boards

To do this, choose healthy, smooth and knot-free boards, 150 mm wide and up to 5 m long.

Making a transom

The transom is intended for mounting a boat motor. The transom board should be 25 mm thick. If plywood is used, it is better to glue several layers together so that you end up with a suitable thickness (20-25 mm). The base for mounting the motor must be rigid, so its thickness should not be less than 20 mm. If necessary, the transom board is reinforced from above wooden block. In this case, it all depends on the method of mounting the outboard motor.

Making a boat frame

The frame is assembled in the following sequence:

the keel is installed;
stems are installed;
the installation locations of the frames are marked;
installation of frames;
fastening frames, stems and transom to the side boards;
checking the correct installation of all elements before their final fastening;
It is advisable to treat the joints of structural elements with a waterproof compound or drying oil.

Sheathing a boat with plywood

According to the working drawing, blanks are cut out of plywood for sheathing the boat's hull.

Subsequently:

the frame of the boat capsizes upside down;
all surfaces of the keel and frames are treated emery cloth and make them absolutely even;
the parts of the bottom of the boat are installed in their place and secured with a stapler, after which the fastening points are pierced with nails;
The side skin elements are first tried on, and then fastened in the same way as when fastening the bottom;
When gluing workpieces, you should pay attention to the direction of the fibers of the outer layer of plywood. They should be located along, not across, the boat.

Working with glue

Work with glue is aimed at obtaining a durable structure, and, if necessary, filling seams or cracks with it. When working with plywood, all joints between the workpiece and the keel and frames are glued. After punching with nails, fill the areas where the plywood meets with glue. load-bearing elements if they do not fit tightly.

To improve the strength and performance of the craft, the plywood sheathing is covered with fiberglass. Similar protection wooden structure increases the durability of the boat. The fiberglass fabric is evenly distributed along the plane of the skin, while folds or the appearance of bubbles are not desirable, which indicates poor quality of work. The fabric is glued from the keel, towards the side boards.

Painting

As soon as the surface of the boat has dried well, proceed to the next stage - puttying and painting. Ready-made putty mixtures on an artificial basis are ideal. The boat is painted in two stages: first, a primer layer is applied, and then one or two layers of paint.

A boat is an indispensable thing if you want to go fishing or just spend time with friends or family on the river. This is a great device for a walk or even a whole water adventure that you can do yourself.

If you are interested in the technology by which you can make a punt boat from plywood yourself, the drawings presented in this article and the recommendations will be useful to you in your work.

Making a simple boat from plywood is the most budget-friendly way to get a boat. To do this, you just need to stock up on everything you need, including tools and drawings, as well as show a little patience and diligence. Otherwise, making such a product will not be difficult for you, the main thing is to strictly follow the prepared drawing.

What do you need for work?

The material on which the structure is created is, of course, plywood. It consists of veneer layers glued with phenolic glue, which are pressed in production. There are several types, but not every type of plywood is suitable for making a boat with your own hands.

Note! The highest quality and waterproof plywood is marked FSF. It is usually made of birch veneer. When using it, you can achieve reliability and quality from your future product. As a result, you will spend significantly less effort on sanding and finishing your boat.

If for some reason you are unable to obtain quality plywood trademark, when buying not very high-quality products, pay Special attention execution of end parts on sheets. The absence of through cracks, knots, holes and defects is a sign of a standing material.

The quality of the chosen plywood will depend on:

the quality level of the product itself;
performance characteristics of the boat;
cost of finishing work;
time spent on finishing work;
volumes of required material;
number of seams in the finished boat.

Therefore, you must treat your choice with maximum responsibility. Some parts of your flat-bottomed boat may require blocks or boards, preferably dry and completely free of any flaws or damage.

To cover the boat, fiberglass is used, sold in rolls. You can cut it into pieces of the required size, which will be convenient for gluing joints and seams. A single piece will be more appropriate for processing the bottom.

Varnish, glue and paint are used to protect the boat from moisture. It is best if the varnish is ship-grade and the paint is not water-based.

To make brackets for your boat, you can use plastic clamps and copper wire. Any other material will also work, which can then be easily removed.

List of tools:

electric jigsaw and a set of files for it;
sander;
hammer and plane;
clamp;
tape measure for measurements, a metal ruler and a simple pencil for marking;
brushes for applying varnish and glue;
spray gun for working with paint;
a spatula that will help level the fiberglass during the gluing procedure.

Boat manufacturing work: splicing method

After you have selected the appropriate drawings, prepared everything necessary tools, you can start making the boat.

Note! In the event that you cannot find the plywood of the size required for your boat, it can be joined together using plywood miter splicing technology.

Sheet splicing technology:

Sheets of material must be laid on top of each other, mark a line of the mustache (its length is ten to twelve thicknesses of a plywood sheet).
To obtain an even and high-quality result, it is recommended to secure the material using clamps and a limit bar. It is along this bar that the mustache will be formed. Make sure that you do not have sharp changes in the length of this line.
The formed mustache must be sanded with a machine to an ideal state, constantly combining and adjusting the sheets.
An adhesive composition is applied to the mustache area, after which plywood sheets it is necessary to stack the treated surfaces on top of each other and secure them with clamps, placing weights on top to ensure complete gluing.
Excess glue must be removed immediately, without waiting for it to dry.
After the glue has dried, you can remove the clamps and leave the product alone for 24 hours until the glue completely hardens.

The remaining glue must be sanded off with sandpaper to even out the seam and make it less noticeable.

First you need to mark the bottom on plywood, having previously laid it out on flat surface. Based on your drawing, draw the centerline of the boat, after which you can place a grid on the basis of which the contours of the future product are marked.

To ensure a tight fit of the joints, chamfers can be made at the edges of the plywood junction. Suitable for this Grinder. After this, you can sew the parts together using staples and clamps. The procedure should begin from the stern, gradually moving to the bow of the boat, slowly bending the plywood. Both the sides and the transom are secured.

The next stage is checking the geometric dimensions of the structure. After which you need to tighten the clamps more tightly, place spacers in the places where the frames are mounted to fix all the parts.

The seams are glued from the inside of the product. To do this, you need to take glue and fiberglass, which must be cut in advance into strips 7 cm wide. Using a brush, apply the adhesive to the joint, glue the fiberglass and level it with a spatula, removing bubbles and wrinkles. The seams need to be taped two or three times.

Before you start building a wooden boat, you need to take care of its most important parts - sides. For this purpose, long, wide, not thick, preferably without knots, pine or spruce boards are selected. They must lie for at least one year in a dry place, on a flat surface with slight pressure on top to avoid their bending.

We inspect the prepared boards again for defects - cracks, falling knots, etc. Then we measure desired length(here, as well as further, specific dimensions of the parts of the boat will not be given, since all this is at your discretion) with a small margin and file each of them at an angle of 45 degrees - this will be the bow part.

Next, they need to be planed, and chamfered from the sawn ends so that the boards pressed against each other in the bow do not have a gap.
We impregnate these areas, and subsequently all others that will not be available for painting after assembling the structure, with a protective layer of antiseptic.

After this, we proceed to making the base of the nose - a triangular block. Its length should exceed approximately 1.5 times the width of the sides of the boat. The timber is also planed and covered with a protective layer.

Don't forget to leave a margin at the top and bottom, then after assembly, all excess will be cut off.

Having prepared these elements, we proceed directly to assembly. We start from the bow, firmly connect both sides and the triangular block with screws or nails.

We cut off the protruding parts at the top and bottom flush with the sides.

It must be exactly the same height as shown in the photo, otherwise the boards may burst during bending. The spacer angle should also not be made too large.

Having installed the spacer, we begin to bend the sides; here you will need a couple of assistants or a rope. Having bent to the required distance, we apply the “back” and determine where and how much to chamfer so that the sides adhere to it without gaps.

So, removing it little by little, we adjust it until we achieve the desired result.

Having achieved it, we nail down the sides and cut off the protruding parts from below, and from above as you want. It is better to do it in the form of a triangle.

Then we proceed to install the permanent braces and seats. Their number and location is at your discretion. When fixing them (and in general, in other places), be sure to first make a hole with a small drill in order to avoid the appearance of cracks.

We complete the very important initial stage by chamfering the bottom of the sides, spacers and applying a protective coating to them.

After the impregnation and wood glue have dried, you can begin making its bottom. For this we need a smooth galvanized sheet. It is desirable that its length matches the length of the vessel. It’s true that it’s not easy to choose one, the fact is that construction stores They sell mainly small sheets (1.2x2m, 1.5x2), and they are very reluctant to cut off large rolls. If you can't reach an agreement, take what you have. The bottom can be made from two sheets, but it will just be a little more complicated.

Using metal scissors, cut out a piece corresponding to the size of the bottom from the purchased galvanized steel. To make it easier to determine the length and width, we place the boat on a sheet and outline it with a marker, with a small margin of 1.2-2 cm, just in case.

Next we need to prepare the lower parts of the sides. We apply sanitary with a gun silicone sealant a small layer in the form of a continuous winding thread. Then we lay a special cord directly on it in two rows. All this will reliably protect the bottom of the boat from leaking in the future.

If there is no sealant, replace it regular paint, if there is no thread, put in tow.

Having completed this, carefully place the cut piece of tin on the boat, align it and begin to fasten it.

For fastening, you can use galvanized self-tapping screws with a press washer or nails. In this case, we fasten using a method that has been proven over the years - i.e. nails (1.8x32). We start work from the middle and move towards the edges. The work is monotonous and tedious, but there is no need to rush - protruding nails will not add beauty.

How often you need to prick them is shown in the photo.

We cut off those places where the tin protrudes beyond the edges by more than 5 mm. We tap the rest with a hammer, bending it onto the side.

The bow of the boat needs protection; we cover it with the same tin. We measure and cut out the desired piece in the form of a rectangle.

On that part of the sides that will be covered with galvanized steel, pre-impregnated with antiseptics (in general, by this time the boat needs to be covered with at least one layer of impregnation), we apply sealant with thread. After this, we apply the sheet as shown in the photo and nail it.

The edges of the tin should not extend beyond the triangle nose, otherwise the nails will come out.

We lay the galvanized sheets on top and bottom on top of each other, cutting off the excess and also fastening them with nails. The result will be a great nose, just a very sharp one. Therefore, we crumple or cut off its tip, so as not to damage swampers or fishing gear on it later.

A new boat on a pond will definitely attract attention; in order to somehow protect it from attacks or to prevent it from being carried away by the current, we make a fastening for a chain in the bow. For this we need a long bolt or pin. We drill a hole in the sides exactly along the diameter of the pin, secure it, and saw off the excess with a hacksaw.

The boat is almost ready. We cover it with an additional 2 layers of impregnation and leave it to dry in the shade.

If you wish, you can immediately take care of protecting the bottom of the boat by covering it with paint. Galvanization on the outside, in contact with water, deteriorates over time without additional coating.

To make it comfortable to walk on the tin bottom and not rattle, it is necessary to provide wooden flooring. It can be of a wide variety of designs. For example this one.

Now we can confidently say that the boat is ready! A boat with a galvanized bottom is much lighter than one with a wooden one, and during operation it will be easier to prepare it for the next season after wintering. In terms of strength, it is in no way inferior to others. For example, after 10 years of use, my previous old boat’s sides rotted, but the bottom was okay.

Yes, and one more thing - do not skimp on the antiseptic, it is this, and not paint, that resists the destruction of wood much better.

If you end up with something similar or even better, you can be congratulated on your success.

I present several final photos of different people:

Based on materials from: grossoxota.ru

Video lessons on making boats with your own hands

Plywood boat

Sheet iron boat

Despite the fact that you can buy a fishing boat in almost any fishing store, it is much more profitable from a material and practical point of view to make a boat from plywood with your own hands.

And although it will take a lot of time and effort to make a homemade boat, you can be proud of the result for a long time. It's always nice to know that something was made with your own hands.

Necessary tools and materials

You can take ready-made drawings on how to make a boat from plywood:

punts;
kayaks;
with motor;
sailing

Even if you don’t like any of the drawings, you can always design the boat yourself. But the ability to competently construct drawings will not be superfluous, otherwise you will end up not with a boat, but with a pile of firewood. Options for drawings are presented in the photo.

To create a homemade plywood boat you will need the following set of tools:

jigsaw;
saw;
screwdriver;
hammer;
Sander;
set of clamps;
set of brushes.

As for materials, the main component of the structure, of course, is plywood. Waterproof boat plywood is best, but if you don't have that on hand, you can use sheets of birch veneer plywood. In this case, the thickness of the sheets must be at least 5 mm, and some structural elements, for example, the bottom, keel and frames, must be 10-16 mm thick.

In addition to plywood, you will need to use wood to construct the frame of the struts, floor grating, seats and other things.

All seams and joints must be coated with glue, polymer resins, epoxy resin or similar means to ensure the tightness of the boat.

Also important materials are impregnations, varnishes, paints and drying oils. After all, the ship, firstly, must have a decent appearance, and secondly, it must not rot after the first foray into a body of water.

Making boats from plywood

It is worth noting that the construction of a boat from plywood can only be done from high-quality sheets that do not have surface defects such as knots, cracks and delaminations. It is advisable to use the largest sheet dimensions. Large plywood is easier to work with and the structure is more durable. But often there is no suitable plywood available, and you have to glue two sheets together. To do this, the ends of the two sheets to be glued are ground down at an acute angle so that the length of the bevel is equal to at least seven sheet thicknesses. This gluing is called “on the mustache”. The bevels are carefully coated with glue and pressed against each other with a set of clamps.

Using the drawings you found or created yourself, you can begin marking the materials. On at this stage It is important to keep all dimensions exactly. A deviation from the drawing of at least 1 mm will lead to the formation of cracks at the joints and, accordingly, the structure will become vulnerable. For convenience, you can use patterns that are applied to the plywood and traced. The photo shows an example of such a pattern.

So, using a jigsaw and a saw, cut out each structural element. Particular attention should be paid to the ends of the workpieces - the angles of joining the surfaces should be observed. To create a backboard, you will have to glue together several layers of plywood to achieve the design thickness and, as a result, the required strength. This will significantly make the structure heavier, but is a necessary measure (especially if you plan to mount it under a motor). The same should be done with frames.

Homemade boats made of plywood for the motor, they require additional strengthening of the rear side by gluing it with fiberglass and reinforcing it with hard wood.

To strengthen the structure, it is recommended that transoms and frames be additionally fixed using galvanized or tinned screws. However, do not forget that the length of the screw should in no case exceed the thickness of the parts being fastened.

For convenience, the transom is placed on trestles and the bottom and sides are attached to it. The ends should be brought together from the nose. The elements are fastened with glue and sutures. If, as a result of this operation, the structural parts do not come together, then everything will have to be disassembled and the frames cut off. Therefore, it is better to try everything on in advance.

In case of creation homemade punt the task is simplified as much as possible. The punt structure can only take 2-3 hours to assemble by a skilled enthusiast. Since there are no complex geometric shapes, the work can easily be completed by just one worker, without spending much physical effort.

Particular attention will need to be paid only to the joints and gratings of the floor made of wooden slats. The flooring is necessary because the bottom of the boat is very vulnerable to the deformation load received from the soles of shoes.

Seam taping

A do-it-yourself plywood motorboat requires special attention and control when gluing all the seams of the structure. The photo shows the final results of gluing the seams.

Sizing steps:

Preparation of a sealing composition based on Aerosil and epoxy resin in a 1:1 ratio.
All corner connections reinforced with wooden fillets (play the role of stiffeners).
All joints from the inside are carefully coated with a sealing compound, and strips of fiberglass are glued on top.
After complete drying, frames are installed, which are secured with glue and screws.
Now the lining of the floor grating on the bottom begins.
Installation of seats, rowlocks and other structural elements according to the drawing.
After all joints and surfaces have completely dried, the boat can be removed from the gantry.

Painting work

The final, but no less important stage of boat construction is painting. Before you begin painting, it is necessary to prepare all surfaces and joints by sanding and degreasing.

After this, it is necessary to thoroughly coat every centimeter of the surface with wood impregnation. It is recommended to use impregnation for river or sea vessels.

Now you can start painting. Painting work usually done with a hard brush, but the use of spray guns is also allowed. It is recommended to use enamels intended for painting ships as paint. The durability of the boat directly depends on the quality of painting work.

If you approach the task wisely, you can quite simply build a boat with your own hands, both for fishing and for comfortable rest for the whole family.

The easiest way is to build a punt for fishing. The boat will be especially effective and practical if waterproof plywood is used as the material, and the rear side is equipped with a motor mount. The stages of constructing a punt can be seen in the video.

The motor boat is perfect for use on rivers and lakes. But at sea, a homemade motor punt should be used only with full confidence in the quality of the assembly.

A motor boat made of waterproof plywood can serve its owner for many years.