It is unlikely that in the home workshop there will be a more necessary device than a bench vise. Even if you mainly work with wood, sometimes you will not be able to do without a vise. And if you don’t have a workshop, garage or a corner in your apartment where you can repair simple household utensils, having a small bench vise can help out a lot in many situations, turning kitchen table or even a stool for a mini-workshop.
First of all, about the appointment. The task of the vise is to securely fix and hold the part or workpiece during its processing. various tools. Depending on what objects mainly need to be fixed in a vise and what tools you have to work with them, the design parameters of the vise vary. But the most universal and most common look like this:
The basis of any vice is a screw pair. In most cases, the screw is fixed in the movable part of the vise body, and the nut in the fixed part, which is either directly or through rotary mechanism attached to locksmith's workbench or a special stand that ensures the immobility of the vice during any operations with the part fixed in them.
Types of locksmith vise
In addition to having a solid base, you need to be clear about the kind of work you will be doing and match your choice of bench vise with it. First of all, it concerns the material of the case. In the post-Soviet space, it is more often cast iron.
This material is hard, wear-resistant, but rather brittle. Therefore, if you are not going to bend thick steel blanks with a sledgehammer without serious preliminary heating, then feel free to take such a vise, and if you are going to, it is better to look for steel ones.
If you need to regularly fasten workpieces in such a desktop vise cylindrical shape, then it is desirable to make an overlay on the sponge with a triangular cutout. And if such operations are quite frequent, then we advise you to consider options for the design of a locksmith vice, somewhat different from the standard ones.
In general, if we talk about the functionality of a bench vise, then first of all you should think about the size. If you know for sure that you will not have to work with large parts, then do not pay for extra metal, and perhaps even consider a compact machine vice.
Or vice versa - it is possible to work with large-sized parts, but without much effort in their processing. Then we can consider the option of a vise with the possibility of preliminary spreading of the jaws without using a lead screw.
If you do not have a workbench, and also in the list of works there are more operations that do not require the application of a rough physical strength to the workpieces, then the option with a desktop vise fixed with various clamps is yours.
True, the latter are mini-presses, it is better to have them on the farm as additional ones. Big details you can’t clamp them, and you won’t put serious efforts on the workpiece being processed - there isn’t enough clamp pressure to hold the vices themselves, but making a key to the lock according to the model is just that.
In addition, such vices are sometimes indispensable if you need to unscrew a stuck nut when you can use them as hand tool. Despite the miniature size, the pressing of the sponges is very good.
It is also worth mentioning a small vice on a ball joint, which serve for the convenience of processing very small parts of complex configuration, allowing processing various surfaces details from one fixing.
It is clear that the clamping force of the ball joint is not enough for serious physical exertion, so such a vise is suitable for rather specific types of work. The same, in our opinion, not very serious, will be vices with fastening with a suction cup.
For their more or less reliable fastening, either a well-polished surface or glass is needed. On other surfaces, it is unlikely that they will be able to securely fix them. And their functionality is also small.
For all types of locksmith vise, you will obviously need additional pads to secure parts made of soft materials.
Some table vise have a pneumatic actuator, greatly facilitating the process of fixing the workpiece.
But if you don’t have a metalwork mini-production at home, then such a vise is unlikely to be useful to you.
What else is important to know when choosing a bench vise? There are quite a lot of complaints from users about Chinese vices with cast-iron bodies, equipped with clamps for fastening - they often break off, so if you want a cheap vise from China, then it’s better to choose from steel.
Choose a vise that, with the jaws as wide as possible, has the least play between the parts of the body. Also, if you do not need a rotary mechanism at the base of the vise for work, choose a model without it: save money and increase structural rigidity.
How to make a bench vise with your own hands
The question is: why, with such an abundance of sizes, shapes and configurations of locksmith vices offered by the distribution network, to deal with them independent execution. When making a bench vice with your own hands, you can save up to 10 times in cost, as well as make a device with the specified parameters.
And this is absolutely real, because almost everything that can be useful for making a desktop vise can be found at scrap metal collection points for mere pennies.
This is especially noticeable in the photograph, in which parts of a sanitary pipe valve with a flywheel are used as a screw pair.
You can also take a screw pair from an old vertical jack. Even if part of the thread has already worn out slightly, then, as a rule, this is a small area from the edge of the screw, which will already need to be cut to shorten it. The lead screws of old lathes, screw presses, etc. are also very durable.
At worst, for very little money, you can order a turner at the nearest vocational school such a pair with a wide nut, with a conventional metric thread. Just make the diameter bigger, and the nut wider. In this case, the clamping force is redistributed over a sufficiently large area due to the diameter of the screw and the number of turns.
IN last resort, just buy a larger stud in a hardware store, and a high nut to it or 3 ordinary pieces, which you then weld in series, wound onto the stud.
The classic version of homemade desktop vise
From the photograph, steel parts are clearly guessed, almost always easily selected at the nearest second-hand metal:
- steel plate 200 x 200 3 - 6 mm thick (possibly thicker);
- 2 channels (120 mm - external, 100 mm - internal) with a length of 160 mm and 300 mm, respectively, in your case, the dimensions may be different depending on the length of the lead screw;
- steel ears from some large-sized container;
- 2 worn turning tools;
- a bar for a crank, in this case a piece of reinforcement;
- screw or stud corresponding to the diameter of the bar, and 2 nuts;
- 2 washers, with a diameter corresponding to the diameter of the lead screw;
- screw pair - any of those described (in this case, ordered by a turner), 335 mm long;
- strong plate for fastening the lead screw.
lead screw on both sides it is separated from the plate by washers, one of which is welded to it from the side of the threaded part, although with this diameter it can be fixed with a cotter pin or a retaining ring. Then this assembly will be completely collapsible, which is clearly better for reasons of maintainability.
The handle on one side is damped with a welded nut, and on the other side it is made collapsible, after welding a thread from a screw of the corresponding diameter to it.
The nut from the screw pair is welded to the base plate flush with the 120th channel.
For the normal entry of the inner channel with the lead screw fixed on it, its ribs need to be slightly filed.
Ears with jaws welded to them, made of cut turning tools, must be positioned with the lead screw screwed in. So they will take the exact place. You can even twist the sponges together with soft wire, ensuring their perfect relative position.
You can also pre-cut them with an angle grinder with a metal cutting disc.
Due to this fastening of the jaws, namely the shape of the hooks and the distance between them, it is possible to fasten non-standard parts expanded to the bottom in such a vice.
And the maximum thickness of workpieces processed in this vice is very impressive. And there is no need to talk about the maintainability of such equipment - you can see for yourself.
Dear readers, if you still have questions, ask them using the form below. We will be glad to communicate with you;)
If you go to the store and look at the cost of a bench vise with a jaw width of 120 mm or more, it becomes somehow sad...
After looking at the metal that I have available at the dacha, I decided to spend a day on the independent manufacture of a bench vise.
The material that I looked after for making a vice:
Iron sheet for vise base 4mm thick
- shaped square pipe 50mm with a wall thickness of 4mm
- corner 60mm with wall thickness 5mm
- corner 75mm with wall thickness 8mm
- strip 10mm thick
- threaded stud 20mm
- long nut 20mm
I had a plate for the base of the vice with a size of 200x160mm.
I decided to cut off the same one and drilled evenly holes with a diameter of 8mm in one of the plates spot welding fastened these two plates together.
Cleaned up welds:
I drew a central line in the center of the plate and also drew a couple of lines 20 mm wide along the edges of it - the thickness of the stud.
I installed a long nut into which the stud will be screwed onto a spacer - a piece of a strip 10 mm thick to which I welded this nut.
I installed the nut on the spacer in the center of the drawn line and, screwing the stud into it, aligned it in the center.
After that, I welded the platform with the nut to the base plate and cleaned it.
A 60mm corner with a wall thickness of 5mm and a length of 200mm will be used as sidewalls.
I put them in to see what it would look like:
Here general form parts for bench vise:
In a profile pipe 50x50mm made grinder longitudinal groove slightly wider than a welded stand with a nut.
On the edge of this pipe, I left an uncut part equal to the width of the future sponges.
Wrapping corners profile pipe grabbed with tacks to the base sheet.
Between these corners I put a plate 50mm wide and 10mm thick. In order for the profile pipe to move normally, I made a spacer between this plate on top and the profile pipe itself.
As a spacer, I used a pair of hacksaw blades for metal.
After that, the plate was welded along the entire length. It turned out a kind of box:
Since the gap between the plate and the corners turned out to be quite large, after welding the plate from above, I cut off the tacks and welded the same plate from the inside.
Since the profile pipe has semicircular edges, the welding seam from the inside does not interfere with the progress of the profile pipe.
After that, the resulting box was cleaned:
As a base for the vise jaws, I used a thicker corner of 75mm and a wall thickness of 8mm. The width of future sponges will be 150mm.
Having installed the corners on the future attachment points, I cut them off a little on the bevel.
As the sponges themselves, a piece of a strip 10 mm thick will be used.
Sponges will have a size: 150x50x10mm.
Having attached these future sponges to my corners, I secured them with tongs-"dogs" and drilled 4.2mm holes through.
Then I cut a 5mm thread in the corners, and drilled holes in the jaws with a 5.1mm drill and made a countersink under the sweat.
I screwed the bolts into the threaded thread and screwed two nuts on the reverse side, which I then welded. It turned out a kind of elongated thread 5mm.
I made holes for attaching the sponges to the corners in the center of the sponges - 25mm from the vertical line and 30mm from the edges.
From the end of the profile pipe, where in the future the collar will be attached to the stud, I originally planned to weld a square platform.
Then I decided to weld along the edges of the pipe along a segment of the corner in which I would then cut the threads and I would not weld this platform, but fasten it with screws.
This will allow me to later disassemble the vise if necessary.
Putting a corner with future sponges on this part, I made the bevels of the corner relative to the protruding welded corners.
In the future, to strengthen the sponges with inside corners will be welded with braces and all this is welded with a 4mm thick plate.
To reinforce the upper part of the vise, where there is room for an anvil, I put another plate 8mm thick (like the corner of the jaws) and a width equal to the overall width of the box.
Thus, if in the future it is necessary to use the anvil for its intended purpose, then the entire load will be carried out on the vertical ribs of the side corners.
Having welded reinforcing braces, I closed the corners of the sponges with a 4mm thick plate and cleaned everything with a grinder, and then with an emery wheel with a grain of 40.
Yes, welding...
I cooked with the Forsage-161 apparatus
Electrode - MP-3S 3mm
Welding current - about 110A.
When scalding the corners with a 4mm plate, I used the same electrodes, only at a current of about 80A.
The slot in the profile pipe was cut out in place so that this cutout did not interfere with the movement of the pipe relative to the welded platform with the nut.
So that nothing sticks.
Do-it-yourself vise can be made from improvised materials. For this, screws with a thread of 20 mm and a length of 150 mm are used. They can be removed from the sports corner. The thread of such screws is designed for significant loads.
Homemade carpentry vise can be made from improvised materials.
Design features
Do-it-yourself carpentry vise is recommended to be made using long screws. The distance between the jaws of the tool depends on this indicator. Studs are replaced with other fasteners. To fix the handle in the screw, you will need to make a slot. If necessary, the hole is enlarged with a file.
A homemade tool must be equipped with a screw with a ring. A fixed sponge is made from a board. She is nailed to the table. To make the movable part of the workbench, you need a board 20 mm thick and 18 mm wide. The length of the sponge should be 50 cm.
To arrange the hole for the screw, a feather drill is used. It is recommended to pre-adjust it to a diameter of 21 mm. To make a hole for the studs, you need a drill with a diameter of 10 mm. Screws and studs are inserted into the holes.
In order for a home-made vice to process short workpieces, the studs are rearranged. 2 additional holes are made in the board. To work with long boards, a drilling machine with long screws is made.
Application of pressed nuts
Carpentry tools with a pressed nut are made from metal staples. To prevent the key from breaking off the nut when clamping the workpiece, it must be pressed in. To do this, you need to heat the sponges of the key on the fire.
Carpentry tools can be made from shock absorbers and M18 nuts. Holes are made in the corners of the 1st elements. To fix them together, bolts with a countersunk head are used. For self-manufacturing vise can use the following materials:
- metallic profile;
- hairpin;
- nuts;
- welding;
- corners.
Previously, 2 segments are cut from the profile. The third strip is cut lengthwise at an angle. The bottom is cut out of a long strip using magnetic corners. Blanks are tried on and cleaned to ensure good adhesion. welding machine. The vise support is aligned with magnetic corners. The next stage involves welding the last elements and supports. To give the tool greater strength, metal strips are used.
Additional work
Scheme of the carpenter's vice device.
Then the front lip of the vise is welded to the guide. Previously, it is placed with a cutout down. The next step is to make the frame. A metal tape is welded to the last element. Its tasks include limiting the travel of the guide and holding the fastener with a thread.
Nuts are welded to the frame. The pin is screwed in first. The hole for the stem is marked and drilled in the plate. The last part is welded. Steel fastener screwed to the frame. The nut is screwed onto the 1st element.
The stem is inserted into the frame so that the pin passes through the hole. 2 nuts are screwed on top. The pipe is passed through it. Excess pieces of metal tape are cut off. The rear lip is welded to the workpiece and to the bed. If necessary homemade tool paint. To do this, you need to clean them with a felt circle, the stem is lubricated with a special grease. Vices are collected.
Conclusion on the topic
At home, you can make metalwork and carpentry vise. To make 2 tools, water and gas pipes are used. It is necessary to choose pipes with different diameters. A product with a smaller diameter is inserted into a large analogue and fixed by electric welding.
On a smaller product, a flange with an M18 nut is installed. The threaded stud is inserted into the small pipe so that the pre-fixed nut rests against the large bore flange. Other fastener screwed onto the protruding end of the stud. To fix the 1st element, a welding machine is used.
The end of the threaded stud is screwed into the pipe nut with large diameter. The next step is to install the pressure and base plate on the vise. Sponges are made from a square pipe, and paws are made from a corner.
For ease of use, a nut is welded to the protruding end of the stud. This takes into account the possibility of installing a metal bar in it. This technology will allow you to rotate the axis, easily controlling the vise.
Homemade vise may have some negative characteristics:
- simultaneous rotation of the inner tube with the pin;
- the pipe must be in the appropriate position (for this you will need to install a retainer).
In the manufacture of home-made vise from 2 scraps in the form of squares, the above technology should be followed.
If necessary, making a suitable vice with your own hands is easy. It's not only that the tools offered by manufacturers are expensive, bulky and heavy: they often do not meet the needs home master. This is especially true when you need high accuracy of parts, strict parallelism or perpendicularity of their surfaces, the ability to easily move the vise from one place to another, etc.
Figure 1. Locksmith vice V. Legostaev.
Precise drilling of holes, high-quality processing of workpieces, holding them with hands or pliers, is very difficult, and often simply impossible. Need a vise. Convenient operation with wooden products, woodcarving is impossible without a carpenter's vice. Both of them do not have to be bought in a store - if you have the appropriate skills, it is not difficult to make them yourself.
Homemade locksmith vice
This simple, light, but at the same time very effective design was developed by the famous home craftsman V. Legostaev. The operation of the proposed model is based on the fact that water and gas pipes are produced in such a way that a sample of a given diameter fits snugly into the product of the next size.
On fig. 1 shows its device. Individual elements structures are indicated there by the following numbers:
- The inner (moving) part of the vise is a piece of a water pipe.
- The outer (fixed) part of the vise is a piece of pipe of the next size.
- Lead nut (M16).
- Lead screw (M16).
- Vorotok.
- Front support.
- Back support.
- Clamping jaws - pieces of a rectangular pipe.
- Fixing nut (M16).
A flange with a nut having an M16 thread (3) is welded to the end of the pipe section (2), which is the outer, fixed part of the vise. Same flange with nut bigger size(M18) is welded to the end of the pipe section (1), which is the inner (movable) part of the vise. This nut is inner surface flange serves as a kind of bearing for the stud (4) with M16 thread.
Elements of the design of a vise made of metal.
A fixing nut (9) is screwed onto the left end of the threaded stud and fixed in this position by welding. Washers are installed between these nuts and the flange to reduce friction. The right, long end of the stud is screwed into the nut of the large (outer) pipe. A thick washer or nut of suitable size is welded to the left end of the stud, into the hole of which a knob (5) is inserted. With it, you can conveniently rotate the axis to control the vise. As a result, the main working unit of the proposed design will be obtained.
Sponges (8) made of sections of rectangular pipes are attached to the inner and outer pipes by welding. To obtain a complete structure, supports (6 and 7) are attached to the outer pipe. They can be made from a metal corner and rectangular pipes. Homemade vise is ready.
In order to prevent the inner pipe from rotating, it is possible to make a longitudinal slot in the outer one and screw it into inner part fixing screw. This will not be necessary if sections of two similarly sized square or rectangular pipes are used as the outer and inner parts of the main assembly.
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Homemade carpentry vise
In the home workshop for a workbench on which to process wooden crafts there is always a place. Doing this by placing workpieces on a workbench or fixing them with clamps is not always convenient, and sometimes impossible. This is especially true for the processing of the ends of workpieces, since the metal spoils the surface. wooden parts leaving marks on them.
Figure 2. Homemade carpenter's vise from bars.
And this means that you can’t do without a carpentry vice, and in order not to spend money, you can also make them yourself. An example of such a design is shown in Fig. 2. The body (1) is usually attached to the tabletop of the workbench, and the movable plate (2) moves along the guides (3). The movable plate moves due to the rotation of the screw pin (4), which is screwed into the fixed nut fixed on the reverse side of the vise body.
The carpenter's vise is attached to the workbench with long screws or bolts with nuts. Overlays - wooden, plastic or metal can be fixed on the vise jaws. Without them, damage to the workpieces during processing is possible. This is especially important when working with soft woods.
One of the main units is a screw pin (4) with an M20 thread. You can order it in the workshop or look for it in a sports store. The longer it is, the wider the sponges can be spread. With a thread length of 15 cm, they can be separated by a distance of about 8 cm. To attach the handle, a hole of a suitable diameter is drilled at the end of the screw. You can try to find blanks for making guides (3) in a hardware store among fasteners or at a flea market.
Sponges (1 and 2) are made of two pine boards. A hole for the screw and guides is drilled in each of them. For accuracy, it is better to connect the boards before drilling them, for example, with nails, which are then carefully removed. For processing long workpieces, a vice with longer jaws and two clamping screws can be made.
Thus, it is really easy to make a metalwork or carpentry vice with your own hands at home.
And having become acquainted with the principle of operation and the structure of the proposed clamping devices, it is quite possible to develop your own design.
To fix parts during processing, special clamps are needed. It is not difficult to make a vice with your own hands of different sizes, you will need drawings with dimensions, as well as technological sequence performance of work.
The home master usually has a lot of the most different instruments. However, it is difficult to overestimate the role of the vice. They are used to install parts. different size, so there may be fixing devices in the same workshop different kind and constructive performance. Mainly used in metalworking hardware, and is widely used for wood processing wooden devices. Some craftsmen equip their work tables with homemade bench vise. It happens that you need a special fastening tool.
Vice elements
Clamping device should have several basic elements:
- the sponge is fixed;
- sponge is movable;
- screw mechanism;
- cross corner;
- movable sponge bracket;
- slider;
- main support (longitudinal corner).
Scheme of homemade vise
Structurally, the solution of the clamp may be different. Sometimes even ordinary pliers are used as starting materials.
Most simple designs
It is customary to determine the following types of vices according to the features of the device:
- massive stationary. These are usually placed on one of the corners of the workbench. In forges, it is customary to install on a separate support, installed on a powerful foundation;
- rotary can be used from several sides. If necessary, the location of the jaws is oriented in different directions;
- machine provide for use on drilling machines. Can be arranged similar products on milling tables, planing or slotting equipment, as well as on welding lines;
- wedges differ in that the design has a peculiar appearance. Such clamps make it possible to develop rather large pressing forces of the fastened parts;
- Moxon's parallel constructions. Their feature is the use of not one, but several screw clamps. Long parts in different parts fixed at different points;
- vertical are used to process products that have a large height. The support of such a vise can be at the bottom, and the processing zone is located at the top.
Development of the vice design
Drawing homemade vise
If you want to make your own design yourself, you need to prepare drawings (sketches). As a basis, you can take rolled corners, channels, I-beams. IN industrial devices cast iron is used. Small in size can be made from a channel.
DIYers use different types wood or metal.
As part of wood products, metal elements are used:
- screw. Studs with standard thread are used. If there is a jack available, then a rectangular thread will be used in the product being developed;
- screw. It is selected for the existing clamping screw;
- fasteners are used to give rigidity.
According to the execution of the device can be:
- stationary vise, permanently placed in one place;
- portable (easily removable) vise. They can be quickly removed, placed in vehicle to carry out work at the place of repair.
Step-by-step technologies for making a wooden vice at home
Workbench design
At home, a vise for a workbench is made in the following sequence.
 | Wide parallel vise made of wood. The width of the jaws is 600 mm. |
 | The end part is lined with steel plates 4 mm thick. |
 | Billets are cut out of a birch board. The choice of birch is explained by the fact that this wood is characterized by high strength and hardness. |
 | The surface of the boards must be brought to the ideal. Grinding tools are used. Finishing is carried out with skins with a grain of 120 ... 180 units. |
 | A board is glued to the end, which will serve as a fixed sponge. |
 | Additionally, the board is fixed with M5 screws with washers with a diameter of 20 mm. |
 | Guide bushings for rods will be made from birch bars 100x150x50 mm. |
 | They drill holes with a diameter of 20 mm. The rods themselves will be made from tubes Ø 20. |
 | Lead screw M24 and guide rods. The length of the screw is 450 mm. |
 | Pre-assembly of guide assemblies. |
 | In order for the movement to be carried out strictly in a straight line, a long nut is needed. But it can take a long time to find one. It's easier to do otherwise. 1 - take a strip 180 mm long (width 33 mm, thickness 5 mm); 2 - screw two nuts onto the screw; 3 - set the distance between the nuts 140 mm; 4 - weld the nuts to the strip two nuts. You will get a long support that will reliably move the movable part of the vise. |
 | During installation, the screw and guides are located under the table. In the photo you can see how the design of such a vice is assembled. |
 | The movable sponge rests on a metal support. |
 | To move along the screw, you need to weld the washer. It will not allow the moving part to move along the helical surface. |
 | The handwheel is machined from a wood fragment. |
 | After turning, a rather comfortable handle is obtained. |
 | A nut is pressed inside the handwheel. |
 | To fix the nut, it is poured with epoxy. |
 | To fix the overall parts, dowels with a diameter of 20 mm are machined. They can be mounted on sponges as well as on a table. |
 | A hole Ø 16 mm is drilled in the handwheel. A wooden rod is inserted into it. This makes it easier to rotate and fix parts. |
 | Ready-made construction of a wooden vise. Several rows of holes for pins are visible on the table. By rearranging the reciprocal stops, it is possible to fix workpieces of a rather large width. |
Making a wooden table-mounted vice
Another design is used in carpentry. This type of fastener is installed on the table. They can be additionally strengthened with clamps.
 | Used solid oak. It must be dried in a special mode, which includes not only drying. Modes alternate with humidification. Then the appearance of cracks is excluded. IN given design the upper part of the jaws is of small width (only 60 mm). |
 | The bar is placed on the table, and then marked. |
 | The bar is planed. |
 | Cut out individual pieces. The dovetail mount is considered the best. |
 | The fixed part is machined separately. |
 | On lathe the working screw is turned out. |
 | A rectangular thread is cut. |
 | A hole is drilled at the end where the rod is inserted. With its help, the screw rotates. |
 | A base plate is cut from a strip 6 mm thick. |
 | holes large diameter drill, fixing the part in a four-jaw chuck of a lathe. |
 | Finished plate with Ø 20 mm hole. |
 | Making additional cuts. |
 | Ready product used for fixing blanks in the manufacture of small sculptures from soft wood. |
Simple wooden vise
 | Apple bars are used. |
 | The base is a board 30 mm thick, 100 mm wide and 200 mm long. |
 | In addition, three more elements have been sawn. They will serve as sponges and intermediate support. Their dimensions: width 100 mm; thickness 30 mm; height 40 mm. |
 | An eyebolt with an M10 thread is used as the screw. |
 | Additionally, you will need M8x70 bolts with nuts. |
 | Holes for M8 bolts are drilled on two bars. |
 | Additionally, two bars are drilled for M10 thread. |
 | The nut is pressed in. Additionally, a plate is used to fix the screw. |
 | It remains to collect the elements on the base board. |
 | M8 bolts are used to install bars. |
 | The fixed jaw can be installed in several positions. Therefore, parts of different widths can be fixed in a vice. |
 | Vices are ready. They can be used to work with wooden blanks. |
Production of metal vise
Small machine vise
 | Required for manufacturing: a plate with a thickness of 8 mm. Its width is 80 mm, and its length is 120 mm; 2 full-bodied squares 20x20 mm; 2 isosceles corners with a shelf 20 mm; profile pipe 20X20x1.5 mm. |
 | The used parts are tried on the plate. |
 | The corners will serve as guides for the pusher in the vise. |
 | The length of the corners is 60 mm. The pipe has a length of 45 mm. |
 | An M10 nut must be installed inside the profile pipe. You will need to saw through the window; a nut will be installed in this window; the nut must be welded in place. |
 | For making wine, a rod Ø 10 mm was used, an M10 thread was cut on it. |
 | Having fixed the profile pipe in a vice, they make a cut under the nut. |
 | Fitting the nut in place is made. |
 | It is necessary to file two corners of the nut, then it will enter the groove formed. |
 | The nut is installed in place. It needs to be boiled. A hole is pre-drilled on the reverse side, through which it will be welded back side nuts. |
 | Welding is done from above. |
 | Then the reverse side is also boiled. |
 | The surface of all parts is polished. |
 | A hole Ø 10 mm is drilled in a 50x30x6 mm plate. |
 | A notch is cut into the squares. It will fix the parts fixed in a vice. |
 | Prepared parts are laid out on a workbench. The device is to be assembled. |
 | A fixed sponge is welded. Having established a profile pipe as a determining direction, the corners are welded. The stroke of the movable sponge will be 30 mm. |
 | From above you need to weld a plate with a width of 20 mm. It will limit vertical movement. You will need to fix the profile pipe to the movable sponge. |
 | Part of the welding work has been completed. The movement of moving elements is checked. |
 | A nut is welded to the screw. It will not allow him to move along the axis. The plate is on the back. It must also be firmly fixed to the supporting surface of the vise. |
 | Fitting parts in place. |
 | Having welded the plate, a small vise is obtained. |
 | You can conduct a trial use by fixing the vise on the table. |
 | Parts are secured securely. |
