How to fasten the stringers to the elements of the stairs. The device of wooden stairs on bowstrings

Frame stairs are becoming more and more in demand and popularity. Undoubtedly, this is due to the fact that, in addition to strength and durability, they can be made in countless different shapes and designs. This article will be of interest to those who set out to make not just a typical staircase, but a real highlight of their home.

Choosing wooden stairs on a metal frame, you make a choice in favor of practicality, reliability and modernity. Huge dignity frame technology there are its adaptive properties, you can first make the frame of the stairs with your own hands, with the expectation that it will fit into the overall design idea premises, or you can build a rough version of the frame, and in the future, trim with a suitable material.

The combination of metal with wood is one of the most successful design solutions regarding the interior. Thanks to good combination beauty and strength, wood and / or metal structures are popular with builders and owners of country cottages. This is one of the rare moments when builders and owners, relying on their tastes and preferences, clearly agree on one thing, the choice of wooden stairs on a metal frame.

metal ladder with wood trim will create an original atmosphere and interior in the house in a classic or vintage style. The possibility of decorating with forged and wooden elements is a real work of art that will give any room a true noble and respectable look.

An elegant metal staircase, decorated with wooden steps, looks swift and light, while remaining a reliable and durable structure that can withstand significant loads over many years of operation. Metal is the strength, durability of the stairs, and steps made of wood are comfort and style. The metal ladder and wooden steps guarantee the convenience of descending and / or ascending for all members of your family, including the elderly, children and pets.

We make the calculation of the metal frame of the stairs

Wooden stairs on a metal base are made of light or durable grades of metal, an important indicator of which is corrosion resistance. Construction technology wooden stairs with a metal frame involves partial or complete sheathing of visible metal surfaces tree.

Having set a goal to independently design and build a staircase, it is important first of all to perform an accurate calculation metal frame stairs, so that unpleasant moments do not arise in the future.

The main indicator from which all calculations of the ladder frame are based is based on the width of the human step.

On average, this figure is 57-64 centimeters. Based on the above indicated indicator, the ratio of the step and the riser is determined.

• S is the width of the step,
• P is the riser height.

The formula will be:

In addition, it is necessary to calculate the formula for the ease of use of stairs:

As well as the formula for the safety condition:

All quantities cannot be taken into account separately from each other, it is important to grow, taking into account all design parameters, and for this it is necessary to make a clear analysis of the initial data.

Sheathing the metal frame of the stairs with a tree with your own hands

The most popular finishing method for minimal cost is the installation of wooden steps to the frame of a metal staircase. And the remaining visible parts of the structure are simply painted in suitable color, as a result, the metal staircase looks quite harmonious and natural.

If we talk about the complete sheathing of the metal frame of the stairs with wood, then the process includes finishing:

• understair space,
• steps,
• risers,
• imitation of a wooden string.

After such a "disguise", the metal frame becomes invisible, and the staircase is visually indistinguishable from the wooden one.

For the design of exclusive stairs, precious wood is used:

The above tree species have high aesthetic and operational properties.

The hardness of oak wood is several times higher than the hardness of pine wood, and is compared with the hardness of metal alloys. The natural material unique and resistant to mechanical damage and wear. When choosing oak, the service life of the steps is equal to the resource of the frame itself.

Do-it-yourself installation of the metal frame of the stairs

As for installation and operation, wooden stairs on a metal frame are practically unpretentious. There are several options for installing them. If the owner decided to independently install the metal frame of the stairs in the house, he should take a closer look at the structures from prefabricated and prefabricated modules.

They have the appearance of a designer, and are represented by separate parts that are easily assembled into flights of stairs, connecting to each other in accordance with the attached instructions. These modules are manufactured industrial equipment according to the established state standards for wooden and metal structures of stairs. It is important to remember that such stairs require frequent care and special maintenance, to eliminate the occurrence of possible backlashes, tightening connections.

All stair structures are subject to periodic inspection and testing to ensure their safe operation.

Fastening wooden steps to a metal frame.

Basic moments:

• In each step of the metal frame, a mark is made for two mounting holes, every 15-20 cm, we retreat from the edge of the tread by no less than 2 cm.
• If the steps are fastened to the frame with ordinary self-tapping screws, then the holes in the metal frame are drilled into the "tip".
• To compensate for stresses when tightening parts, fasteners with washers are used.

Even the highest quality metal frame can have slight height differences between the parts. In order for the wooden linings to adhere qualitatively to the surface, a substrate is laid on it. For fixing, which is used with ordinary mounting adhesive with a filler effect. It fills voids and forms a durable layer that is resistant to crushing.

The use of mounting foam in this option is absolutely excluded, the dried foam is capable of wrinkling, which leads to corrosion, loosening and creaking of the steps. The most reliable and popular material for the substrate is plywood.

Summing up, it is worth saying that a wooden staircase with a metal frame with your own hands is the perfect combination. important points: durability metal structure and aesthetics of a wooden staircase. No other material has such warmth and attractiveness as wood. In addition to the aesthetic appeal, a wooden staircase pleasantly surprises with its accessibility. financial side. You will not find materials cheaper and more reliable.

This article will show you how to fasten the steps to the metal frame of your staircase under construction in various combinations of fixing materials and general design, i.e. for stairs on bowstrings or stringers.

To begin with, it is worth deciding which steps will have to be fixed. In most cases, the material for the manufacture of steps is wood and for self-assembly stairs, it is it that is the main one, although companies specializing in stair production and installation make steps from glass, stone, and various polymers.

Technologically, fastening is reduced to the choice of the method of fixing the step plate on a rigid or slightly movable metal frame. If the design uses powerful stringers (under flights of stairs) or bowstrings (from the sides flight of stairs), then the step is less subject to dynamic loads (except for the bending of the step itself under the weight of a person), and with lighter structures, for example, stairs on welded stringers from a profile pipe, dynamic loads are greater. It is because of the mobility stair elements, adhesive is not used in these connections, except for mounting on a solid monolithic surface.

Steps can be attached:
1. furniture bolts;
2. self-tapping screws;
3. futorka;
4. fasteners Fisher (Fisher).

Fastening steps to a metal frame with furniture bolts

Fastening steps with furniture bolts

The easiest and most reliable way to install treads to the base. In this case, the step is drilled through with a drill with a diameter slightly larger than the diameter of the bolt body and the base (corner shelf or stringer body). The wide head of the furniture bolt (anodized, galvanized or painted) hides minor defects when drilling, and its profiled part under the head fixes it from turning when tightening. During installation, the nut must not be tightened more than allowed, because.

the metal head of the bolt will simply push through the solid wood.

The disadvantages of this method include the presence of a bolt head on the step surface, especially if fastening is carried out according to an asymmetric pattern and the need to access the riser space to tighten the nut, which is not always possible. P.s. Sometimes in these cases, bolts with a conventional head and a wide washer can be used, but when a thread is cut in the base (kosour or corner), a threaded sleeve (nut) is welded in and a threaded sleeve (nut) is welded in and a pot is made in the surface of the step with a diameter sufficient to use the key head right size. For this option, you can pre-select flat plastic furniture plugs of the required diameter and color.

Advantages: convenience, simplicity, reliability and fastening speed; availability of quick disassembly if necessary (restoration, dismantling, replacement of treads).

Fastening steps to a metal frame with self-tapping screws

Fastening steps with self-tapping screws

The installation of steps with self-tapping screws is good because all the fastening elements are located in the riser and the external decorative finish does not suffer.

It is advisable to use powerful self-tapping screws with a deep cross-shaped or hexagonal groove for fasteners in order to prevent the groove from licking when tightened.

Now roofing screws are often used for fastening steps, which have a hexagonal head and a tip in the form of a drill. It is worth paying attention to the fact that such self-tapping screws are produced for wood and metal and differ in the diameter of the drill (thinner for wood).

How to fasten wooden steps to a metal stringer?

If the installation is carried out through the wall of the profile pipe of the metal frame, then there is a natural desire to use roofing screws for metal and immediately pierce the metal and wood of the steps, but it should be understood that for a wood screw, the drill diameter is much smaller than the diameter of the turns, which provides a good screw engagement area in an array of boards, unlike a self-tapping screw for metal.

Self-tapping screws with a countersunk head are convenient to use in the case of a visible lower surface of the stairs. At the same time, in metal structures, sweat is immediately made under a cone-shaped hat. It is worth noting that if the steps are not made of pine (relatively soft wood), but of larch, beech, ash or oak, then in order to screw in a self-tapping screw with a diameter of 5-6 mm, it will be necessary to make preliminary holes in the steps with a diameter of 3-4 mm (according to the diameter of the main body self-tapping screw - where there is no thread), otherwise the self-tapping screw will not be completely screwed in.

Fastening steps to a metal frame with a futorka

Futorka for fixing steps

Let's make it clear right away that a futorka is a metal sleeve with internal and external threads. This method of fastening the steps can be attributed to the optimal in terms of stealth of mounting elements and ease of installation, dismantling of treads, but at the same time it can only be used for dense wood species, it is rather laborious, it requires stationary preparation and strict compliance with the drawings, because You can't fix anything on the spot. In addition, the steps can be fastened with a futor to the metal frame both from below (on the corner shelf or kosour), and from the side to the end (string). It is this method or its analogue that is used in modern staircase construction by large firms, for example, the German company KENNGOT. They have construction ladders with wood, acrylic, stone treads and threaded bushings for field assembly.

Technologically, a futorka is taken with an external thread diameter of about 20-22 mm and an internal thread of 8-10 mm (on the forums they write about using a conventional stud with an M20 thread in which a hole is drilled and a thread is cut), in a step with a cutter (the cutter does not have a large cone-shaped part ) a hole is made required depth and the thread is cut. Such a large diameter is justified by the need for a sufficient depth of thread grooves in wood for a reliable connection of parts. Using glue (for example, Kleiberit Supratac), the futorka is screwed into solid wood. Now the steps can simply be screwed (more than once) to them with an ordinary bolt or a stud with a decorative cap nut.

Fastening steps to a metal frame with Fisher fasteners

Fixing a step to a corrugated pipe (Fisher)

Enough new way fasteners based on the use of Fisher polymer fasteners, on one side of which there is a bushing large diameter with a hole in the center and conical notches, working like a herringbone (it gets into the hole easily, but resists exit), and on the other - a sleeve that opens when screwed into the self-tapping screw.

Before installation, cores from the kit are placed in the holes on the metal frame, the steps fall into place and the marks are pressed through. The steps are rolling. Then the Fisher mounts are installed in their nests, unfastened with self-tapping screws and a step is placed on them. Unfortunately, personal experience there was no use of such fasteners for stairs, so it is still difficult to say how this fastener behaves, but it is obvious that the dismantling of the step in this case will most likely smooth out the polymer slots and they will need to be replaced. In addition, it is hard to believe that a plastic sleeve will stay in a wooden nest for the entire life of the ladder. Most likely, under the influence of vibrations and distorting loads, the steps will loosen these fasteners. Perhaps they can be strengthened using glue.

What should I pay attention to when choosing a step mounting option?

The choice of mounting option should be made at the stage of development of the stairs.

When designing a metal frame, it is determined whether the lower part of the stairs will be open, whether there will be access from the bottom of the steps, whether mounting elements will be painted or painted, and whether it is important that there are no elements (bolt heads or furniture plugs) on the step surface.

When building a staircase with your own hands, a structure of channels (stringers) and a corner (steps, bundles) is often welded. This option is easier to sew from below decorative material. Drill the corners under the steps from above, and then twist from below with roofing screws.

For the variant of modern stairs on stringers made of a profile pipe, repeating the shape of the stairs, long M8-10 furniture bolts can be used, stitching through the step and stringer, with a decorative galvanized nut from below. It is possible to order steps with footings, but must be 100% sure of the dimensions. Also for the version with self-tapping screws, you can profile pipe the stringer can be drilled from above a little more than the diameter of the self-tapping screw, and from below with a diameter of 12-13, where furniture plugs can then be installed. A self-tapping screw (with a body with a diameter of 5-6 mm) is screwed in from below with a magnetized screwdriver or a screwdriver with a flexible nozzle. A screwdriver, as a rule, stretches screws better.

In any case, you need to try to design the stairs so that the step lies on the shelf of the corner, channel or professional pipe and is attracted to them by the mount, and does not hang on the point fasteners. Over time, any fastening weakens, especially in a tree, and therefore, after the construction of a staircase, many serious companies recommend re-stretching the entire structure after a year or two.

Staircase on a metal frame. Soundproofing experience

22/06/2009 22:19:58

The designs of stairs are different and, depending on the materials used, they are most often divided into wooden, metal and concrete (stone). Each type has its own advantages and disadvantages. When designing a staircase, it is necessary, first of all, to consider such properties as price, aesthetic side (beauty), load on structures, practicality (wear resistance, noise generated when walking, etc.). In this article, I will not consider design features stair design, such as angle of inclination, riser height and tread width, etc. There are many books and materials on the Internet on this subject. Suppose the conditions allow us to mount a comfortable staircase that meets all the requirements of the "convenience and safety formulas." What material to choose?

Traditionally, wood is used for the construction of stairs. Wood is a warm material, has a beautiful appearance, it is pleasant to walk on it. A ladder made of wood is quite light, which means it does not create an excessive load on the supporting structures. However, the tree also has disadvantages. First of all, it is a creak and noise when walking. Of course, a staircase made of precious wood, made according to all standards, as a rule, does not dry out and does not creak, but it is very expensive. Inexpensive stairs are most often made of pine and spruce (often not dried enough), which means that over time such a staircase will lose its initial geometric parameters and begin to creak. In addition, pine and spruce are soft rocks and are subject to mechanical damage. Birch, oak, beech and more expensive wood species are much more resistant to mechanical stress, but are two, three or more times more expensive than coniferous species.

Concrete stairs are often used in houses. Sometimes they buy factory flights of stairs, but more often they make a metal frame, arrange formwork and pour concrete right on the spot. Structurally, concrete stairs can be anything, if you correctly calculate the load, reinforcement and grade of concrete. Concrete stairs are the quietest when walking, but very heavy. It is impossible to rely on massive concrete stairs simply on floor slabs. The support of concrete stairs must be provided by load-bearing structures. In addition, concrete stairs require additional cladding. Most often used as cladding ceramic tiles, porcelain stoneware, but also a natural stone and tree.

Another type of stairs - metal. More precisely, purely metal stairs in houses are rarely used. Most often we are talking about stairs on a metal frame. Stringers or bowstrings are made from channels (12-18), and the bases for steps are made from a corner (most often the 40th), which is welded to the channels. Steps for such stairs are made of wood or metal. Benefits metal stairs a lot of. First, it's fairly light weight. Such stairs can be supported on floor slabs. Secondly, metal stairs are strong enough and can withstand heavy loads. Thirdly, they do not lose their properties over time. The disadvantages are rather inherent not in the metal frame itself, but in the lining. The steps made of their pines on a metal frame also begin to creak over time. To minimize this process, the steps to the metal frame are not attached directly, but through plywood. Plywood 10-12 mm thick is attached to the metal frame on bolts with a countersunk head, and glued to the plywood with liquid nails wooden steps not less than 40 mm thick. Thus, plywood performs several functions at once - it acts as a reinforcement that takes on the load, distributes the load, and also hides the supporting fasteners. The metal frame is also good because the steps can be replaced over time (for example, pine with African mahogany) without any difficulties. However, it is worth mentioning the most important disadvantages of stairs on a metal frame - noise. Steps on such a ladder will be heard by all households, even if a cat is walking up the stairs.

The higher the weight of the wooden cladding, the less the metal frame knocks. Thus, in order to soundproof a metal structure, it must be loaded with something. Steps, risers, balusters, poles, railings. All this is understandable. Can anything else be done? I also asked the same question. The name of the car soundproofing experience, I decided to apply my knowledge in the field of construction. When it comes to soundproofing a metal structure, metal vibration isolation technology is usually used, damping vibrations created in the metal. After all, any sound is a process of vibrations and friction. In order to isolate the stairs from vibration, I decided to use the materials I tested from the StandardPlast company. Before that, I worked with such materials as Vibroplast, Vizomat, Vizomat MP. But the company introduced new material under the brand name Bimast. I decided to use the most expensive material, Bimast Bomb, 4 mm thick, which, according to the manufacturer, fights vibroacoustic noise better than other materials. But I actually chose this material only for the simple reason that it is the heaviest in the StandardPlast line of materials. In addition, Bimast does not require additional heating and cuts well.

Bimast Bomb consists of two layers - elastic bituminous mastic and heavy bituminous material. This is clearly visible in the photograph. Considering the material, I got the impression that Bimast Bomb is Vibroplast and Vizomat MP glued together, which is probably not entirely true.

To begin with, I decided to paste over the kosour - channel from the inside. To do this, I carefully washed the channel from rust and degreased it with white spirit. The material cuts really well. For order, I warmed the mastic a little with an ordinary household hair dryer and began to glue it. When I pasted over almost the entire channel, I began to compare (by tapping) the sound of the processed channel and the unprocessed one.

The result, of course, was, but minimal. The Bimast Bomb didn't noticeably reduce footstep noise, although there was a slight reduction in vibration levels with light tapping. The thing is that the weight of the material in relation to the eighteenth channel was insignificant. Only one sheet of Bimast Bomb weighing a couple of kilograms left for a 3.5-meter long channel. This amount was not enough to effectively dampen a thick channel. In addition, the lion's share of the noise was created by the corners, and not by the channel bar itself.

Or maybe the material is bad? When I had a roll of Uniflex material left from the waterproofing of the foundation, I put it on the soundproofing of metal window sills. The ebbs clattered in the rain like empty tin cans, and when I pasted the ebbs on the inside with Uniflex heavy bituminous material, and also planted the ebbs on mounting foam, I understood what silence is in the house. Even during a heavy downpour, I saw only water on the glass, but did not hear the noise of falling drops. The Uniflex material also had a thickness of 4 mm, but its weight was somewhat larger.

In principle, it is not necessary to buy expensive branded materials for soundproofing. Any heavy bituminous materials are suitable for vibration isolation, because vibrations are damped mainly by weight. So, Uniflex is in no way inferior to Bimast Bomb in terms of efficiency, however, it is worth noting that waterproofing material no adhesive layer. It won't just stick to metal. It needs to be melted down! It is desirable to prime the surface with a bituminous primer. I welded the material of the usual gas burner Kovea.

In all photographs, the staircase is without cladding, with temporary steps.

From experience I can say that on horizontal and vertical surfaces such vibration isolation keeps more or less, but when the material is glued to the metal from below, it usually falls off within six months or a year. 😉

Bimast Bomb or Vizomat MP?

I did another experiment. The second channel of the flight of stairs was processed with the familiar material Vizomat MP 2.7 mm thick. Vizomat MP without measurements is visually really thinner than Bimast "a, lighter and more rigid. It is more difficult to cut Vizomat MP with scissors. Vizomat MP must be warmed up well with a hair dryer. Vizomat MP is glued to metal worse. And the result turned out to be worse. The sound from hitting metal of different intensity is muffled on the channel treated with Bimast Bomb.As a result, Bimast Bomb is really best material in the product line from the StandardPlast company, although it is 25% more expensive in retail.

Thus, I would like to conclude my research. The cost of soundproofing channels acting as stringers is not comparable with the result.

However, the work is not finished yet. You need to find out if it makes sense to paste over the corners that act as a frame for steps and risers. After all, it is they who create the lion's share of the noise.

And some more theory

Just in case, for those who are interested, I will indicate several parameters for the competent calculation of the stairs.

• Riser - step height
• Tread - step width
• The optimal slope of the stairs is 30-35 degrees
• The slope of the stairs should not exceed 45 degrees
• Double riser height + step width must be between 57-65 cm
• The sum of the width and height in the optimal staircase should be 45-46 cm (ladder safety formula)
• The optimal step width is 28-30 cm (at least 25 cm)
• Riser height 14-17 cm (no more than 20 cm)
• The difference between the width and height of the step should be about 12 cm (ladder convenience formula)
• The height from the plane of the stairs to the ceiling must be at least 2 m.
• The number of steps in the staircase should be odd (from which foot we enter the stairs, we exit with this)

Add a comment:

2016-03-15 14:23:05 | Tatiana Borzova
Andrew, can I ask you a question? House blocks yutong 375, I already wrote that I confirm all your comments about this material, in an article about the shortcomings of this material and what the sellers are silent about. Metal frame ladder, how did you attach it? I have floors wooden lags. I want to put it on the main foundation, the design of the house allows me to make a stab in the wall and support 4 racks, a reversal landing, on the foundation.

2016-03-05 23:00:06 | Alexander
Ringing means playing. Additional boil some kerchief from the inside for rigidity. I have a similar design, well, a slightly different weld, but the idea is the same. If you remove the turning part of the stairs, the straight part Channel 12 wall 1 cm. Length 4.5 M. Step corner 5 wall thickness 5 mm. At the top, the ladder is welded to an I-beam. So despite the fact that there is only one metal around, nothing rattles. Achieve rigidity and there will be happiness.

2016-01-06 07:17:07 | SAU
I have a design of steps from corners like Andrei's, but there is no ringing or vibration when walking. A five is screwed on top of the corners with self-tapping screws from below, and on top of the five there is a carpet.

Most likely there is no ringing and vibration due to the fact that additional supports from a square profile are welded in the middle under the channels.

2014-06-01 15:23:23 | Andrey_K
Agree with Paladin! This design really contributes to good acoustics) However, as I think, a heavy channel contributes to it even more. I have been racking my brains over the stairs for a long time - to put them up soon. But I will make braids from thin metal profile, from the same from which the frame is made - it will be much easier. True, there are some nuances - I will also fasten them rigidly - to the frame. but I think to use rubber gaskets in the attachment points. Much will depend on the material of the steps - its acoustic properties, but I really want to make the steps and the landing platform transparent. As for bitumen and bituminous materials - so much of this goodness surrounds us in real life that I tried to avoid using them inside the house. As vibro- and hydraulic decouplings (1 to 2), I used (as far as I know the only ones in Russia) materials from a plant in Nizhny (like) Novgorod (Abris). Their feature and advantage is that synthetic rubber is used as the main material. The materials are not cheap - the toad did not just choke ...) But, in my humble opinion, and, as the British testify, "I am not rich enough to buy cheap things" ( Russian v-t"Miser pays twice"). So I had to be patient :)

2013-09-23 23:05:01 | Andrey_B
Eugene, do you always take everything literally or sometimes you try to understand?
1. The formula of convenience and 12 cm - this is not about the stairs as a whole, but about the steps.
2. You can call anything you like a riser. I personally don't mind. But take my word for it, not all stairs are made of wood. In simple words, the most common concrete staircase, as in the entrances. Where did the thickness of the material go, huh? And where is her riser?
3. The optimal slope is a subjective concept. I have 4 stairs at home. In my life I have no difficulties with either 20 degrees or 45 degrees. But from my point of view (supported, by the way, by theory), 30-35 degrees is the most convenient angle. If it seems to you that this is not so and your opinion is the only correct one, I see no reason to discuss it.

2013-09-23 18:53:21 | Eugene
"The difference between the width and height of the stairs should be about 12 cm (ladder convenience formula)" - how is it, I have a ladder 295 cm high and what should be its width according to your calculation ??? even scary to imagine!

When planning a house of two or more floors, it is necessary to calculate and design the location of the stairs in advance. This design is not only a necessity, but can be either a decoration of a building or its problem. It is advisable to think about how the steps will be fastened: to a bowstring or stringer.

String mount

A bowstring is called inclined beams, which are load-bearing. Fastening steps to the bowstring can be carried out between two beams or between the bowstring and the wall. With such stairs, the treads are always hidden between load-bearing elements and their ends are not visible.

When a design of an angular or U-shaped type is being designed, then laying the steps on the beams is a rather problematic task. This is due to the fact that at a winder (without a platform) stairs, each bowstring can have its own size and must be calculated separately for each step. This complicates the task of fastening. The corner span with the platform has boards of the same length, which simplifies the work during installation.

Fastening the tread on the bowstring

This is done in two ways:

1. The first way is mortise steps. To perform it, uniform recesses are cut out on the machine or manually cut out in the beam, into which treads are inserted. For an object without risers, grooves are cut only for the step. When a ladder leaf with risers is mounted, separate vertical grooves are cut out for them. To install a structure with inserted steps, it is assembled in separate spans and only after that they are installed one after another.
2. Another method is carried out with the help of sliding steps, which are inserted into the groove of the bowstring with open edges. In this case, a small part of the tread protrudes beyond the bowstring. This design can be done by first setting the bowstring, and then simply pushing the steps into the slot.

Installation of mortise steps requires a certain skill and precision. If the groove is not cut exactly and does not correspond to the required size, then you will have to insert wedges into it under the tread itself. For objects with mortise steps, the strength is somewhat lower than for retractable ones, so it is better to strengthen the bowstring with additional threaded steel rods. These rods can be hidden by placing their bolts inside the step. On the bowstring, you can also mount treads on wooden bars or metal corners.

Attention should be paid to detail during the design phase to avoid possible problems future installation.

Fastening the tread to the stringer

Before solving the problem of how exactly to fasten the steps to the stringer, it is necessary to decide what it will be made of, wood or metal. But the main thing is that the staircase harmoniously enters the interior of the building. The steps are fastened to the stringer by laying them on top of the bearing blocks. In this case, the edge of the tread is completely open. Structures mounted in this way are more common.

For stairs on a stringer made of wood, pine is best for the price and weight. You can use an oak board because of its strength, but it is more expensive. The main thing is that all parts of the wooden march are made from the same type of wood. It is advisable to carefully calculate the number of steps, their weight, the width of each march and the total rise of the stairs.

Stairs on a stringer made of metal are more popular for their variety. Such elements facilitate the entire structure and help save space. They are stronger and more durable than their wooden counterparts. Another advantage is that they have the ability to be "broken" and straight. Lightness is often achieved by the absence of risers.

When deciding to attach steps to a metal stringer with your own hands, you need the ability to perform welding work.

The installation of wooden steps on such a structure obliges the installation of metal frames attached to the beam, in which each step fits.

Fixing balusters

Balusters are called vertical posts, standing in the railing of the staircase at a short distance from each other. IN architectural design use figured and carved types of these elements. They are both a decoration of the entire object, and serve to strengthen its strength.

Fastening to the steps is carried out by several methods.
The installation of balusters on the bowstring of a flight of stairs is carried out on beams. You can fix them either on the side outer side, but then the bolts will be visible, or on the upper face. To make the staircase look aesthetically pleasing and the fasteners were not visible from the balusters, you need to drill holes in the beams, insert the rod and close it with a dowel.

Mounting on the upper face is carried out in two ways:

To install balusters on a bowstring with your own hands, milling work is necessary, because sawing by hand will take a lot of time.

Fastening posts to stairs

Fastening directly to the steps is possible when installing treads on stringers. This is easy to do for both wood and metal objects. How to attach balusters to steps is shown in detail in the video. First of all, you need to decide how many columns will be and at what distance from each other. lower and top slats must be bigger size to enhance the strength of the entire staircase.

To make the fastening reliable, they are put on pins, which are wedged with glue into the holes made in the tread and in the column. Since special questions “to the metal step” are usually not asked, this type of staircase is the most common.

Bowstring stairs are often installed in multi-level apartments and in private houses. This traditional stair design is different from other options high level reliability, and, in some cases, attractive appearance. For experienced craftsmen installation of stairs on bowstrings does not present any problem.

But, at self-fulfillment work, you will need a photo or video installation instructions to minimize the number of questions that arise during installation. In addition, you should study in advance all the features of fastening and marking, as well as the basic rules for their arrangement. Consider not only the essence of the concept, but also existing species structures, as well as possible technologies for their self-manufacturing.

Types of stairs

Bowstrings - side elements of the ladder structure that hold the steps and act as limiters. It is worth noting that bowstrings are present in various forms in almost all designs.

Variety of models:

1. Attached. The simplest option of all possible. Most often used on summer cottages. It includes only a few elements: transverse crossbars (steps) and side bowstrings. Anyone can make such a ladder with their own hands. A video instruction recorded by experienced craftsmen can help with this.
2. Folding attic. This model has two sections. In this case, the bowstring is folded. As connecting elements loops, carriages and other fasteners are used.
3. Screw. One of the most complex structures. The bowstring is located on the outside. Such models made of wood look very impressive.
4. Marching. The most common design. The bowstring in this case form a march and hold the steps.

Mounting options for steps

From the side it may seem that the stairs on the bowstrings look monotonous and uncomplicated. But, this is far from the case. There are a huge number of options for their design.

In order to pick best option installations, you should study possible ways installation steps:

1. Sliding steps are not just inserted into pre-made grooves, but gently slide into them. The cut recess should have not only an entrance for the steps, but also an exit to the outside. In these designs, the treads can be dismantled without disassembling the entire staircase structure.
2. Mortise steps - a standard technique for connecting treads and risers. A hole is cut in advance in the bowstring, into which a step is then hammered. In order to make grooves, you should use manual frezer. If there is no router, then you can take a chisel and a hammer. But, this method takes a lot of time. After the steps are fixed on one bowstring, the second element should be filled from the other edge.
3. The use of corners. This method involves the use of additional elements. In order not to waste time cutting corners, you can attach metal corners to the sidewalls. It is for these additional elements in the future, treads will be attached.

Bowstring for stairs: features of fastening and marking

If you plan to build a staircase with mortise steps, then the grooves are made from the inside. Their depth should be in the range of 1.5 to 2 centimeters. After that, risers and treads are carefully inserted into the grooves. When working on your own, remember that the bowstring should have cutouts with even edges and the same depth.

Pay attention to marking the relative position of the grooves on the two support beams. If it is uneven, then in the future an unexpected distortion of the staircase structure may occur.

Experts recommend in such cases to make special templates cut from thin sheet plywood. To prevent the bowstring from turning into a kosour, the guides should be fixed at a distance of 50 millimeters from the pre-marked line.

The marking for the grooves is as follows. On inside beams are applied longitudinal lines. From the edges of the beam, they should recede by 50 millimeters. If such a need arises, then this distance can be reduced to 30 millimeters. Next, the finished template is carefully moved along the edge using guides. The location of the steps is marked with a pencil.

Remember that when marking the bowstring of one ladder structure, the location of the grooves must be completely mirrored.

The lower and upper parts of the support beams must completely coincide with the levels of the floors. But this coincidence will be vertical or horizontal, it directly depends on the type of structure.

Experts who know all the features of fastening and marking do not recommend quickly sawing off excess ends. It is possible that they will be needed for tapping into a special support beam during final installation.

In order to get a reliable and very durable staircase on a bowstring, the fastening of the side elements is best done with the help of rods. It can be a wooden band on bolts or wedges, as well as a metal band on nuts. Tie rods are installed from two edges of the stairs and in its central part. These elements make it possible to avoid undesirable extension of the sidewalls, which occurs when walking on steps and with a high load on them.

DIY installation instructions

Determine the height of the structure, its dimensions and the number of steps. In order for you to get a bowstring, take a wooden stick of the required thickness. As noted above, cutting grooves should be done using templates.

When cutting grooves yourself, copy the marks from the template to the workpiece. Wood is processed with a special milling cutter with a nozzle of the required diameter.

After that, fix the inner bowstring at the construction site and connect all the elements of the steps. When the work is completed, on the second side, press the elements of the steps with another bowstring and gently tamp. Using glue and nails, you can make the structure more durable and reliable in use.

By installing strands, you can prevent unwanted loosening of the ladder structure. The strands are mounted at the rate of one per 5 steps.

In conclusion, it is worth noting that it is not so difficult to design a bowstring for a staircase with your own hands, as it might seem at first glance. Before using the ladder structure for its intended purpose, you should make sure that the fasteners are strong.

If necessary, additional vertical support elements can be installed. For this purpose, metal tubes or wooden beams are suitable. Models of stairs look interesting, which are mounted to the ceiling with the help of suspensions.

As for the fences, they can be installed both on the bowstring and on the steps themselves. It all depends on your aesthetic preferences. If you are not sure that you can do the job yourself, even with the help of video instructions, then it is better to contact specialists. The company "Stairs Master" employs masters who will perform all the tasks assigned to them not only quickly, but also with high quality. Such a bowstring for stairs is guaranteed to be reliable, durable and aesthetically attractive.

A kosour or bowstring is an element of a staircase that bears the main load of the entire structure. With the correct installation of all its components, accidents can be avoided, which occur when the ladder assembly technology is violated. The bowstring happens different kind, but with its device, an inclined beam is always used, on which the steps are attached. Their installation is carried out along the top of the crest of the kosour. When viewed from the side, the edges of the stairs will be free and clearly visible from the end. Lifting structures using a bowstring look more compact and lighter, because they are not burdened with unnecessary details and are simpler in execution.

The fastening of the kosour to the platforms or ceilings of the second floor can be carried out in various ways.

How exactly to fix it depends on the thickness of the platforms, support beams and other design features of the stairs. Toothed and simple stringers require different methods for mounting steps, which are fixed with screws or dowels.

How the kosour is attached to the upper platform or ceiling

The fastening of the kosour to the platform and the ceiling of the second floor depends on its type, which can be wooden or metal. In the upper part of the kosour, made of any material, is fixed with anchors or bolts. Its fastening is carried out to steel beams or reinforced concrete floor by welding, bolts or anchors. When mounting a metal bowstring, its ends are cut off under right angle and steel plates or corners are welded to them, in which holes are pre-drilled. The resulting sites on the edge of the bowstring are joined to the steel beam with bolts. You can use an anchor that is best suited for attaching the stringer to the reinforced concrete floor. At the bottom of the stairs, the bowstring can be attached to the end of the platform or left to rest on the horizontal upper plane of the platform.

If the ladder has a side bowstring, then this allows you to arrange the steps in the convenient way that is most suitable for this room. Such a ladder will be more compact and convenient. Usually these are stairs with metal steps, lightweight design. The bowstring in them is attached to mortgages built into the wall, and at the top is fixed with the help of plates welded to the edges of the beam.

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Ways of fastening a wooden kosour

Fastening a wooden stringer in its upper part has many ways. One of the most reliable and common ways of mounting to the opening is the device washed down in the support beam, where the edge of the stringer is then inserted. Sometimes a rectangular gash is made both in a beam and in a stringer. It is more convenient to perform an inclined gash only in a beam, which will correspond to the slope of the bowstring. Wash down should not be too large, because it weakens its cross section.

Installation of a wooden kosour can be done using metal fasteners. Using corners, beam supports and bolts, the edge of the bowstring can be fixed to the beam with a high degree of security. This is best done in cases where the stairs have small or light marches, a steep slope, or the transfer of most of the load to the lower fulcrum. If a heavy march is being constructed, with thick steps, risers, filing and massive railings, then it is better to arrange a direct support of the kosour on the beam with the help of cuts.

Stairs on kosoura have varieties. The bowstring can be placed along the edges, or one central stringer can be made in the middle of the stairs. A balustrade or fence using a stringer is mounted directly on the steps.

Fastening steps and risers to the bowstring can be done with glue, dowels, screws and other fasteners. How to fix the steps in a particular case, they decide depending on the severity of the stairs, its shape and angle of inclination. It is impossible to use nails for installation, because over time they become loose and their connection with the tree weakens.

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Method of fastening steps on dowels to a wooden stringer

Steps can be fixed different ways. The most effective way to work with wood is to secure the elements with the help of carpentry tools and techniques.

You will need:

• mallet;
• measuring tape;
• wooden sticks with a length of at least 50 mm;
• carpentry glue or glue "Moment" on wood;
• electric drill;
• wood depth limiter;
• markers 21 mm.

The manufacture of dowels and their correct installation is often used in the installation of internal wooden stairs leading to the second floor.

1. Dowels are used to fasten the steps to the stringer. To do this, it is necessary to drill a hole in the beam with a depth of 20 mm, using a drill with sharpening for wood with a depth gauge.
2. For each step, 2-3 holes are made, which are blown and markers are inserted into them, 21 mm high.
3. We begin to impose steps, tapping them with a mallet so that the markers leave marks for the holes into which the dowels will be inserted.
4. All marks imprinted on the steps are drilled to a depth of 30 mm.
5. Blow and clean the holes and smear them with wood glue.
6. Dowels with pointed ends, 45 mm long, are driven into the holes made.
7. The protruding part of the dowel is lubricated with glue and a step is stuffed onto it.

Excess glue that is poured into the holes will come out easily if the edge of the dowel is pointed. In order for the step to completely sit on the dowels, you need to push it, tap it with a mallet or put a weight of 200 kg on it for 10-15 minutes. This will be enough so that it does not deform under heavy load.

Individual construction of houses is almost never complete without the use of stairs. The main requirement for all types of these structures is the safety of movement on them.

Stair structures must be strong and stable. Therefore, the question of how to fix the stairs to the ceiling is very relevant in any private house. Let's consider in more detail various options fixing ladder structures depending on their type.

Stair construction during operation is subjected to various kinds of permanent and temporary loads. In addition to its own weight, it must also withstand the weight of a person and objects moved along it. Therefore, the issue of durable fastening of such structures in the house is very important.

Stair structures are usually fixed to:

• Semi;
• Slab or beam of the upper floor;
• Inter-march sites;
• walls– it is recommended to fasten the structure only to bearing walls made of concrete, timber or brick. The wall thickness must be at least 25 cm.

Important! It is impossible to fix products to asbestos-cement, plasterboard walls, or partitions laid out in one brick.

The method of fastening largely depends on:

• Type of ladder structure;
• The material from which it is made;
• Product weight;
• Its dimensions;
• Floor, ceiling and wall materials.

The main types of ladder structures are:

• marching- may consist of one or more marches.
• based on bowstrings, stringers, support post or Boltsy. Most often, combined supports are used.
• Complex structures- a combination of marches and helical sections, several marches with turns at different angles.

The method of fixing the structure depends on many factors - photo

The most common in private homes are marching structures made of wood. A single-march product can have the simplest fastening - to the floor and ceiling. It is a very reliable and stable system that does not require additional intermediate fasteners.

If there are two or more marches, then additional fixation of the structure is necessary. Complex models may have combined mounts, depending on the shape and type of support.

Openings for the installation of stairs

The opening for the stairs in the ceiling must be provided at the design stage of the building.

Its dimensions depend on:

• Dimensions of the future design;
• Stair type;
• Cover type.

The hole in the ceiling for the stairs should have a width equal to the width of the march with the addition of gaps necessary for fixing the structure and its finishing. The length of the opening largely depends on the angle of inclination of the product.

But for safety reasons, the hole in the ceiling for the stairs must allow the descent and ascent of a person in full height. Openings are made rectangular, square or round.

Fixing stairs to various types of interfloor ceilings

The quality of the material of the ladder structure is of great importance for its reliability and safety. But the strength of fixing all its elements among themselves, as well as correct fastening stairs to the ceiling, inter-march platforms, floors and walls play a much larger role.

Interfloor overlapping when arranging stairs can be made of various materials:

• Wood - the most common flooring on wooden beams.
• Reinforced concrete slabs.
• Steel beams - rarely used in private construction.

Depending on the type of load-bearing structures of the floor, there are various ways of fixing ladder structures on them.

Interfloor ceilings on wooden beams

If the floors in the house are made on wooden beams, then the flight of stairs should be laid on the beam without distortions. Its fixation is carried out using special fastening systems, depending on the material of the stairs and the type of its supports.

The supports of the ladder structure in the form of a stringer are directly adjacent to the ceiling or the platform between the spans, transferring all loads to them.

• In case of incorrect fastening in wooden elements supports may develop cracks. This often happens when fixing a bowstring or stringer with beams and slabs into a lock.
• Both vertical and horizontal loads act on the lower support of the structure. The same thing happens with a tight fixation of the support on the floor.
• If the bowstring or kosour will be based on the ceiling only by the horizontal part, then the upper support will be subjected only to vertical loads from the stairs. Consequently, the risk of cracks in the march is minimized.
• A gap of about 1 cm is required between the vertical end of the support element and the load-bearing floor structures.

Fixation wooden stringers to longitudinal or cross beams made of wood can be carried out with a gash on a ladder support, or on a beam element.

There are a lot of options for fixing ladder structures to wooden beams. Often the choice of a particular method depends on the various nuances of the product itself and how the opening in the ceiling under the stairs is made.

Features of fastening stairs with metal stringers

Stair structures on metal supports are stable and durable. If interfloor load-bearing structures are made of reinforced concrete beams, then the metal support can simply be welded to them.

But another option is also possible:

• The edge of the stringer, with which it will be attached to the beam or ceiling slab, is cut off at the required angle.
• Steel plates or corners are welded to the ends of the support.
• Kosour fastening to reinforced concrete structure made with bolts or anchors.

For fixing a steel ladder to wooden beam you can install a special metal plate with through holes on the upper end of the stringer.

• The support is attached to it through these holes. The thickness of the metal must be at least 5 mm.
• So that the plate does not interfere in the future decorative trim, it must be drowned in a beam. This can be done by cutting a slot in the beam material in the form of a rectangle to fit the plate.
• With your own hands, with the help of a chisel and a hammer, such work can be done, but the process will be very laborious. It is much easier to cut a groove using a router. Width and Height seat should be 3-5 mm larger than the plate dimensions.
• When choosing suitable hardware for fastening a metal stringer, it is necessary to take into account permanent and temporary loads. A constant load is the weight of the staircase itself, variable loads are the weight of a person and objects being moved.
• For example, mass metal product is 140 kg, the average weight of a person is 90 kg. Therefore, the minimum load will be 230 kg.

If self-tapping capercaillie screws 10 x 120 mm in size are used as fasteners, each of which is capable of withstanding a load of 100 kg, then the use of 8 hardware allows a maximum load on fasteners of 800 kg. The margin of safety with such a mount is sufficient.

Due to the wide variety of options, the most suitable fastening of the stairs to the ceiling must be selected taking into account all individual characteristics structures. If you are not confident in your abilities, then it is better to entrust such work to professionals.

The price of their services will largely depend on the complexity of the mounted product. But do not save on this - the safety of the entire structure plays a very important role. More information on the topic " Correct installation stairs to floors various types” can be obtained from the video in this article.