If you decide to equip your own workshop, workbench or desktop, you may definitely need homemade vise. This is a relatively simple matter, and a workbench or workshop made will serve you. long time. You should study in more detail the question of how to make a bench vise with your own hands and what nuances accompany this process.
Twin screw joiner
If you are looking for a bench vise that is really powerful, then your best bet is twin-screw modification of said device. The M20 hitch bolts offer several tons of force, which is an excellent option for such a vise. The order of assembly of such a device is as follows:
- We prepare everything necessary tools;
- We make appropriate cuts and holes;
- We insert bolts and turns;
- We check the vise for strength and performance.
Step by step and detailed briefing for assembly and self-creation of vise for the workshop and workbench are available on specialized resources and forums in the form of photos and recommendations.
Very handy for ready-made desktops make a mini moxon vise. To get started you will need the following materials and tools:
After the workpiece has been cut, it is necessary to grind the edges with sandpaper. We round the edges of the wheels with a drill and all the same sandpaper. To make screws, you need to purchase a long threaded rod and cut metal blanks into two parts.
After that, you need to insert the nuts into the holes. Glue the skin on the clamps and remove all unnecessary. Surface protection is provided by tung oil. It, unlike other wood impregnation agents, polymerizes inside and outside the tree with rapid penetration into the lower layers. After the oil dries, it remains to connect all the resulting parts together - and the vise will be ready for use.
They are also easy to make by hand.. First you need to cut the plywood to size. Weld two nuts to the flat panel for the threaded guide and attach under the table with screws, as this will add stability to the structure in question. It is very important to correctly align everything, otherwise it will not work.
After that, it is necessary to make a notch for the nut with a chisel. On the outer lock, drill a hole 3 cm deep. Therefore, the thickness of the plywood should be 3 cm.
It is a copy of the usual vise, only made of wood. From metal parts, only a screw 45 cm long and 8 cm thick should be used here. Massed pine plywood, well dried, is suitable.
The vise jaws are made from separate blocks, which are subsequently glued together. To give them their final shape, sand their edges with sandpaper. In this case, for one block, it is worth choosing a thicker tree. This compensates for the space between the moving and fixed parts. The handle through the head should pass into the hole freely, then add the knob and anvil. When finished, remove the fixing screws, coat the vise elements with two coats of polyurethane oil and leave to dry overnight. Bolt the vise to the work table.
oak vise
The design of this structure is based on old drawings., the body is made of oak sleepers. Sponges can be cut by hand or with a saw. Grooves are punched down on both sides of the base. The brackets add strength to the rear lip and secure it well to the base.
The top of the tee is on top of the clamp bolt. You will also need a large bolt and a square head that fits into a groove in the body at the base of the vise. A steel strip should be added to each side of the base at the bottom to protect the side brackets from wear.
Make homemade vise As you can see, it turns out that it is not so difficult. There are many sites and articles on the Internet that talk in detail about the manufacture of devices for various workbenches and desktops. The manufacture of oak vise is very interesting, since massive pine plywood is ideal for them. A good addition is the steel strip, as it prevents wear on the brackets and vise in general. Good luck and making homemade workbenches!
A vise is one of the most important tools in any workshop. It allows you to expand the range of work and increase efficiency: thanks to them, the hands of the master are free, and the processing of parts is carried out on high level and without outside help. Few people know that enough high-quality vise can be made by hand. It is only necessary to show a share of ingenuity, skills and attentiveness. Next, about the intricacies of the tool creation process.
Vices are widely used in construction work as a holding tool for various details. The product in question is presented in the form of a base (body) with two clamping tubes that allow you to firmly hold the part during milling, planing or drilling.
A vice is considered one of the main locksmith tools, because the quality of their parts will depend on the strength of fastening parts. final processing. In addition, such a product frees both hands, thus allowing you to carry out certain processes as accurately as possible.
Depending on the operational features, the vise is divided into two categories: carpentry and locksmith. The latter, in turn, are divided into rotary and static. Static locksmith vise are chair and parallel. The former do not have elements for permanent fastening and are more easily mounted / dismantled. The latter differ more overall dimensions and attached to working surface thoroughly.
Locksmith vices are designed primarily to work with enough soft materials: plastic, wood, etc. They have high clamping jaws that are either fixed statically or rotated on the base.
Machine tools are designed to work with hard materials, for example, metal. Their clamping jaws are less high for greater convenience and work efficiency.
Making an instrument at home
To make a vice with your own hands, you need to prepare a certain set of materials and tools:
- metal plates;
- pins;
- boards;
- Metal rod with a diameter of about 2 mm;
- fasteners.
From the tools you will need a minimum: an electric drill, a sledgehammer, a file and a hacksaw. With your own hands, it is easiest to make a bench vise, so the following is presented step-by-step instruction to create just such a tool:
Advice. Homemade vise can be more efficient and convenient because it is quite possible to adapt them to any specific operation.
If you plan to make a vice with your own hands, you should take into account some of the nuances that will determine the strength and durability of the tool:
- Material. Steel is most often used to create a product. It is advisable to choose high-quality, since the reliability and durability of the product, as well as its ability to firmly hold the part during its processing, largely depend on this.
- Product size. If you plan to work mainly with small parts, it is better to give preference to a compact model: it will be more convenient and easier to work with it.
- Thread pitch. Important point which is often overlooked by many. The thread should be clear and fine if spot work is planned.
- Sponges. It is important to pay attention to the size and shape of this element. The first indicator depends on the type of products to be processed, the second - on the materials of the workpieces. If you plan to work only (mostly) with soft materials, it is better to make the jaws flat.
Advice. Because you're making your own vise, you can go beyond the standard model to make the best tool for your needs. Remember that with the help of an additional option, you can make the vise more efficient in work. So, for example, the presence in the product rotary mechanism allows you to work with small details.
That's all the subtleties that you should know about creating such a tool as a vise with your own hands. As you can see, this process is quite simple, and the result of the work will please even experienced craftsman. Good luck!
How to make a vice with your own hands: video
To fix parts during processing, special clamps are needed. It is not difficult to make a vice with your own hands of different sizes, you will need drawings with dimensions, as well as technological sequence performance of work.
At home master in the arsenal is usually a lot of the most different instruments. However, it is difficult to overestimate the role of the vice. They are used to install parts. different sizes, so there may be fixing devices in the same workshop different kind and constructive performance. Mainly used in metalworking hardware, and is widely used for wood processing wooden devices. Some craftsmen equip their work tables with homemade bench vise. It happens that you need a special fastening tool.
Vice elements
Clamping device should have several basic elements:
- the sponge is fixed;
- sponge is movable;
- screw mechanism;
- cross corner;
- movable sponge bracket;
- slider;
- main support (longitudinal corner).
Scheme of homemade vise
Structurally, the solution of the clamp may be different. Sometimes even ordinary pliers are used as starting materials.
Most simple designs
It is customary to determine the following types of vices according to the features of the device:
- massive stationary. These are usually placed on one of the corners of the workbench. In forges, it is customary to install on separate support installed on a powerful foundation;
- rotary can be used from several sides. If necessary, the location of the jaws is oriented in different directions;
- machine provide for use on drilling machines. Can be arranged similar products on milling tables, planing or slotting equipment, as well as on welding lines;
- wedges differ in that the design has a peculiar appearance. Such clamps make it possible to develop rather large pressing forces of the fastened parts;
- Moxon's parallel constructions. Their feature is the use of not one, but several screw clamps. Long parts in different parts fixed at different points;
- vertical are used to process products that have a large height. The support of such a vise can be at the bottom, and the processing zone is located at the top.
Development of the vice design
Drawing homemade vise
If you want to make your own design yourself, you need to prepare drawings (sketches). As a basis, you can take rolled corners, channels, I-beams. IN industrial devices cast iron is used. Small in size can be made from a channel.
DIYers use different types wood or metal.
As part of wood products, metal elements are used:
- screw. Studs with standard thread are used. If there is a jack available, then a rectangular thread will be used in the product being developed;
- screw. It is selected for the existing clamping screw;
- fasteners are used to give rigidity.
According to the execution of the device can be:
- stationary vise, permanently placed in one place;
- portable (easily removable) vise. They can be quickly removed, placed in vehicle to carry out work at the place of repair.
Step-by-step technologies for making a wooden vice at home
Workbench design
At home, a vise for a workbench is made in the following sequence.
 | Wide parallel vise made of wood. The width of the jaws is 600 mm. |
 | The end part is lined with steel plates 4 mm thick. |
 | Billets are cut out of a birch board. The choice of birch is explained by the fact that this wood is characterized by high strength and hardness. |
 | The surface of the boards must be brought to the ideal. Grinding tools are used. Finishing is carried out with skins with a grain of 120 ... 180 units. |
 | A board is glued to the end, which will serve as a fixed sponge. |
 | Additionally, the board is fixed with M5 screws with washers with a diameter of 20 mm. |
 | Guide bushings for rods will be made from birch bars 100x150x50 mm. |
 | They drill holes with a diameter of 20 mm. The rods themselves will be made from tubes Ø 20. |
 | lead screw M24 and guide rods. The length of the screw is 450 mm. |
 | Pre-assembly of guide assemblies. |
 | In order for the movement to be carried out strictly in a straight line, a long nut is needed. But it can take a long time to find one. It's easier to do otherwise. 1 - take a strip 180 mm long (width 33 mm, thickness 5 mm); 2 - screw two nuts onto the screw; 3 - set the distance between the nuts 140 mm; 4 - weld the nuts to the strip two nuts. You will get a long support that will reliably move the movable part of the vise. |
 | During installation, the screw and guides are located under the table. In the photo you can see how the design of such a vice is assembled. |
 | The movable sponge rests on a metal support. |
 | To move along the screw, you need to weld the washer. It will not allow the moving part to move along the helical surface. |
 | The handwheel is machined from a wood fragment. |
 | After turning, a rather comfortable handle is obtained. |
 | A nut is pressed inside the handwheel. |
 | To fix the nut, it is poured with epoxy. |
 | To fix the overall parts, dowels with a diameter of 20 mm are machined. They can be mounted on sponges as well as on a table. |
 | A hole Ø 16 mm is drilled in the handwheel. A wooden rod is inserted into it. This makes it easier to rotate and fix parts. |
 | Ready-made construction of a wooden vise. Several rows of holes for pins are visible on the table. By rearranging the reciprocal stops, it is possible to fix workpieces of a rather large width. |
Making a wooden table-mounted vice
Another design is used in carpentry. This type of fastener is installed on the table. They can be additionally strengthened with clamps.
 | Used solid oak. It must be dried in a special mode, which includes not only drying. Modes alternate with humidification. Then the appearance of cracks is excluded. IN given design the upper part of the jaws is of small width (only 60 mm). |
 | The bar is placed on the table, and then marked. |
 | The bar is planed. |
 | Cut out individual pieces. The dovetail mount is considered the best. |
 | The fixed part is machined separately. |
 | On lathe the working screw is turned out. |
 | A rectangular thread is cut. |
 | A hole is drilled at the end where the rod is inserted. With its help, the screw rotates. |
 | A base plate is cut from a strip 6 mm thick. |
 | holes large diameter drill, fixing the part in a four-jaw chuck of a lathe. |
 | Finished plate with Ø 20 mm hole. |
 | Making additional cuts. |
 | Ready product used for fixing blanks in the manufacture of small sculptures from soft wood. |
Simple wooden vise
 | Apple bars are used. |
 | The base is a board 30 mm thick, 100 mm wide and 200 mm long. |
 | In addition, three more elements have been sawn. They will serve as sponges and intermediate support. Their dimensions: width 100 mm; thickness 30 mm; height 40 mm. |
 | An eyebolt with an M10 thread is used as the screw. |
 | Additionally, you will need M8x70 bolts with nuts. |
 | Holes for M8 bolts are drilled on two bars. |
 | Additionally, two bars are drilled for M10 thread. |
 | The nut is pressed in. Additionally, a plate is used to fix the screw. |
 | It remains to collect the elements on the base board. |
 | M8 bolts are used to install bars. |
 | The fixed jaw can be installed in several positions. Therefore, parts of different widths can be fixed in a vice. |
 | Vices are ready. They can be used to work with wooden blanks. |
Production of metal vise
Small machine vise
 | Required for manufacturing: a plate with a thickness of 8 mm. Its width is 80 mm, and its length is 120 mm; 2 full-bodied squares 20x20 mm; 2 isosceles corners with a shelf 20 mm; profile pipe 20X20x1.5 mm. |
 | The used parts are tried on the plate. |
 | The corners will serve as guides for the pusher in the vise. |
 | The length of the corners is 60 mm. The pipe has a length of 45 mm. |
 | An M10 nut must be installed inside the profile pipe. You will need to saw through the window; a nut will be installed in this window; the nut must be welded in place. |
 | For making wine, a rod Ø 10 mm was used, an M10 thread was cut on it. |
 | Having fixed the profile pipe in a vice, they make a cut under the nut. |
 | Fitting the nut in place is made. |
 | It is necessary to file two corners of the nut, then it will enter the groove formed. |
 | The nut is installed in place. It needs to be boiled. A hole is pre-drilled with reverse side, the reverse side of the nut will be welded through it. |
 | Welding is done from above. |
 | Then the reverse side is also boiled. |
 | The surface of all parts is polished. |
 | A hole Ø 10 mm is drilled in a 50x30x6 mm plate. |
 | A notch is cut into the squares. It will fix the parts fixed in a vice. |
 | Prepared parts are laid out on a workbench. The device is to be assembled. |
 | A fixed sponge is welded. Having established a profile pipe as a determining direction, the corners are welded. The stroke of the movable sponge will be 30 mm. |
 | From above you need to weld a plate with a width of 20 mm. It will limit vertical movement. You will need to fix the profile pipe to the movable sponge. |
 | Part of the welding work has been completed. The movement of moving elements is checked. |
 | A nut is welded to the screw. It will not allow him to move along the axis. The plate is on the back. It must also be firmly fixed to the supporting surface of the vise. |
 | Fitting parts in place. |
 | Having welded the plate, a small vise is obtained. |
 | You can conduct a trial use by fixing the vise on the table. |
 | Parts are secured securely. |
If you go to the store and look at the cost of a bench vise with a jaw width of 120 mm or more, it becomes somehow sad...
After looking at the metal that I have available in the country, I decided to spend a day on independent production locksmith vise.
The material that I looked after for making a vice:
Iron sheet for vise base 4mm thick
- profile square pipe 50mm with 4mm wall thickness
- corner 60mm with wall thickness 5mm
- corner 75mm with wall thickness 8mm
- strip 10mm thick
- threaded stud 20mm
- long nut 20mm
I had a plate for the base of the vice with a size of 200x160mm.
I decided to cut off the same one and drilled evenly holes with a diameter of 8mm in one of the plates spot welding fastened these two plates together.
Cleaned up welds:
I drew a central line in the center of the plate and also drew a couple of lines 20 mm wide along the edges of it - the thickness of the stud.
I installed a long nut into which the stud will be screwed onto a spacer - a piece of a strip 10 mm thick to which I welded this nut.
I installed the nut on the spacer in the center of the drawn line and, screwing the stud into it, aligned it in the center.
After that, I welded the platform with the nut to the base plate and cleaned it.
A 60mm corner with a wall thickness of 5mm and a length of 200mm will be used as sidewalls.
I put them in to see what it would look like:
Here general form parts for bench vise:
In a profile pipe 50x50mm made grinder longitudinal groove slightly wider than a welded stand with a nut.
On the edge of this pipe, I left an uncut part equal to the width of the future sponges.
The corners clasping the profile pipe were grabbed with tacks to the base sheet.
Between these corners I put a plate 50mm wide and 10mm thick. In order for the profile pipe to move normally, I made a spacer between this plate on top and the profile pipe itself.
As a spacer, I used a pair of hacksaw blades for metal.
After that, the plate was welded along the entire length. It turned out a kind of box:
Since the gap between the plate and the corners turned out to be quite large, after welding the plate from above, I cut off the tacks and welded the same plate from the inside.
Since the profile pipe has semicircular edges, the welding seam from the inside does not interfere with the progress of the profile pipe.
After that, the resulting box was cleaned:
As a base for the vise jaws, I used a thicker corner of 75mm and a wall thickness of 8mm. The width of future sponges will be 150mm.
Having installed the corners on the future attachment points, I cut them off a little on the bevel.
As the sponges themselves, a piece of a strip 10 mm thick will be used.
Sponges will have a size: 150x50x10mm.
Having attached these future sponges to my corners, I secured them with tongs-"dogs" and drilled 4.2mm holes through.
Then I cut a 5mm thread in the corners, and drilled holes in the jaws with a 5.1mm drill and made a countersink under the sweat.
I screwed the bolts into the threaded thread and screwed two nuts on the reverse side, which I then welded. It turned out a kind of elongated thread 5mm.
I made holes for attaching the sponges to the corners in the center of the sponges - 25mm from the vertical line and 30mm from the edges.
From the end of the profile pipe, where in the future the collar will be attached to the stud, I originally planned to weld a square platform.
Then I decided to weld along the edges of the pipe along a segment of the corner in which I would then cut the threads and I would not weld this platform, but fasten it with screws.
This will allow me to later disassemble the vise if necessary.
Putting a corner with future sponges on this part, I made the bevels of the corner relative to the protruding welded corners.
In the future, to strengthen the sponges with inside corners will be welded with braces and all this is welded with a 4mm thick plate.
To reinforce the upper part of the vise, where there is room for an anvil, I put another plate 8mm thick (like the corner of the jaws) and a width equal to the overall width of the box.
Thus, if in the future it is necessary to use the anvil for its intended purpose, then the entire load will be carried out on the vertical ribs of the side corners.
Having welded reinforcing braces, I closed the corners of the sponges with a 4mm thick plate and cleaned everything with a grinder, and then with an emery wheel with a grain of 40.
Yes, welding...
I cooked with the Forsage-161 apparatus
Electrode - MP-3S 3mm
Welding current - about 110A.
When scalding the corners with a 4mm plate, I used the same electrodes, only at a current of about 80A.
The slot in the profile pipe was cut out in place so that this cutout did not interfere with the movement of the pipe relative to the welded platform with the nut.
So that nothing sticks.
It is very difficult to hold a metal workpiece with your hands and at the same time process it; in this case, we recommend making machine vice do it yourself. If you need to rigidly fix the part at an angle, you will not envy the master at all. For such work, a vise is simply needed. But most manufacturers do not include tooling that automatically increases the cost of equipment. Factory milling vices are relatively inexpensive and, nevertheless, some craftsmen manage to make home-made counterparts with their own hands.
Grooves on the lips reduce the area of the supporting surface and increase the holding force therefore, it is desirable to have them on a bench vise. But the drilling effort is applied differently, so you can do without corrugations. But if you really want to, you can make longitudinal corrugations (along the long side) and a couple of transverse ones to hold round parts. Corrugations are made with the help of an angle grinder and a guide pressed with clamps to the sponges. Good jaws for drilling vices can be made from a rough (bastard) file. Pieces of the file can be glued to the vise on epoxy resin with the addition of metal dust (aluminum powder). An important addition to the jaws of a drilling vice will be a step
Do-it-yourself machine vice video
Making a rotary vise with your own hands
To make a rotary vise with your own hands, you need skills in metalworking, welding and related equipment. homemade device made by hand from stainless steel.
- A clamp is being made that will hold a homemade vice on the workbench.
- We cut out two steel plates with our own hands, in which we drill 3 holes for the guides. We weld the carriage and assemble the structure: insert a threaded pin into the middle hole, smooth pins along the edges - guides for the pressing sponge. We attach a handle to the free end of the screw pin for ease of control.
- With our own hands, we fasten a fixed sponge onto the bolts, we embed the heads of the bolts in the tangent surface, we place the nuts on the outside. To make a holder for the pressing sponge, we use welding. The holder is a corner with three triangular stiffeners. The horizontal part of the holder is bolted to the carriage. We also fix the sponge itself with bolts. This will allow you to change the sponges in the future, for example, you can make additional ones from the corner for fixing pipes.
- We make a do-it-yourself hinge to change the position of the workpiece. To do this, you will again have to use welding machine. The position is fixed with a threaded pin and a pair of nuts.
