One of the most common and important issues a private house made of wood is a cold floor. This is due to the outflow from the ground of cold air currents that penetrate through the cracks. In order for the room to be warm and comfortable, it is necessary to carry out floor insulation in wooden house from below. How to do it, what materials are used for this and the main points installation work described in this article.
Helpful advice! Working with cotton wool requires special protective clothing for the body, gloves and goggles. This is due to the fact that during the installation work, small fibers are separated from the plates. They can cause skin irritation and itching.
Floor insulation with expanded clay
Expanded clay is a small round porous balls of slate or clay. They are obtained by firing materials in a furnace at high temperature. Expanded clay is considered a safe and environmentally friendly material. Among its advantages are:
- high sound insulation;
- resistance to low temperatures;
- environmental safety for humans.
A noticeable disadvantage of this material is the compaction under its own weight. Expanded clay balls are pressed together. This leads to an increase in the weight of the substance and a decrease in thermal insulation properties.
Helpful advice! You should not choose this material for floor insulation in a wooden house on screw piles. An increase in the mass of the floor covering can lead to subsidence of the foundation of the structure.
Using sawdust for floor insulation
Sawdust is a waste product of the woodworking industry. They have good steam and sound insulation characteristics, retain heat, and are environmentally friendly for humans. Sawdust are of low cost. The resulting thermal effect is no worse than that of expensive materials. Thanks to the cement component, they are also well suited for floor insulation in a ground floor apartment. Subsequently, laminate, linoleum, tiles, etc. can be laid on such a screed.
Before use, sawdust is subjected to special treatment. This helps to prevent the appearance of rodents and beetles in them. After, they are mixed with cement and water and evenly applied over the entire floor area.
Helpful advice!Clay can be used instead of mortar. This material environmentally friendly and has the best thermal insulation characteristics than cement.
Sawdust is ideal for insulating floors on the ground, especially if the building does not have a solid and solid foundation.
Floor insulation with foam
Popular floor insulation with polystyrene foam. Most often, this material is called foam. The advantages of this heater:
- low vapor and sound permeability;
- low thermal conductivity;
- resistant to external factors and chemicals;
- does not lose its properties for a long time;
- easy to install.
A significant disadvantage of polystyrene is its susceptibility to moisture. He can absorb it into himself. This negatively affects the basic performance characteristics. He is also afraid of exposure to fire and high temperatures. But the simple and inexpensive technology of floor insulation with polystyrene is its significant advantage. This is what, in most cases, the owner of the house is guided by.
Helpful advice! If your dacha or private house is located on land with a close occurrence ground water or a high risk of flooding, you should not choose foam as a heater. If the choice has already been made, you should take care of good waterproofing.
Ecowool
Polyurethane foam (ecowool) is a great way to solve the issue of floor insulation in an apartment on the ground floor and a private house (cottage). This material is blown into the free space using a compressor. So it evenly fills all the voids. Fine particles that make up ecowool provide excellent vapor barrier. The material is not exposed to moisture, so additional waterproofing is not needed during its installation. This allows you to reduce the cost of insulation.
Related article:
How to put it in correctly. Features of different types of heaters. Floor maintenance tips. Popular manufacturers and cost of materials.
After hardening, a solid, even layer is obtained. It handles loads very well. Light weight does not increase the weight of the structure. The service life of this heater is more than 20 years.
A significant disadvantage of ecowool is the need to use special industrial equipment.
Helpful advice! Professionals say that when insulating with this material, waterproofing is not needed. However, when insulating the floor in a country house without a foundation, it is better to lay an additional waterproofing layer.
Penofol: floor insulation
The combination of polyethylene foam and a thin layer of aluminum foil is called foam foam. It is sold as a rolled roll. The thickness of the seal is from 3 to 10 mm. Penofol retains heat well, is environmentally friendly, has high sound insulation.
Retains heat well
The big disadvantage of this material is exposure to moisture due to the presence of aluminum foil in the composition. Another disadvantage is that penofol does not differ in long-term operation. After five years it is necessary to carry out re-insulation.
The main points of the installation work
All materials used for floor insulation have their own fixing methods. However, there are highlights of the thermal protection device. They are recommended to be observed when installing any material.
The order of arrangement of the main layers when installing floor insulation in a wooden house with your own hands:
- waterproofing layer;
- thermal insulation layer;
- vapor barrier material;
- direct structural elements of the floor;
- flooring.
Experts say that such an arrangement of the main layers will allow you to get the optimal thermal regime inside the room. This technology maintains the necessary circulation of moisture in the house.
Helpful advice! When insulating the floor of the basement in a wooden house, you can choose beams with a cross section of 50 to 100 mm. They are fixed from below, and a layer of insulation is laid between them. The additionally obtained "pie" should be sewn up with boards.
Waterproofing
When insulating the floor in a private house, you can not do without waterproofing. Due to the ability of cold air to condense on a warm surface, the wood floor is exposed to moisture. Its constant presence in the room leads to the active development of fungus, mold and causes decay of the structure itself. Especially if special tools were not used during the construction of the house.
When laying thermal insulation without a waterproofing layer, the effect of moisture negatively affects the heat-conducting properties of the material. The result is an increase in humidity in the room and a decrease in temperature. Waterproofing helps to avoid these unpleasant moments.
A waterproofing layer is laid from the side of exposure to cold air currents.
Vapor barrier
Human heat and equipment operating in the home emit warm air. It passes through the ceiling and condenses when it encounters cold air. The problem with this phenomenon is that moisture settles inside the structure. As a result, the tree swells and begins to rot from the inside. It will not be possible to prevent this process by processing special means. Therefore, when insulating the floor in a wooden house from below with foam or other material, the presence of a vapor barrier is mandatory.
When carrying out installation work from below, the vapor barrier layer is laid first. The simplest and available material for this is polyethylene film. It is excellent for both steam and waterproofing.
The presence of such layers in the flooring should be designed in advance. If this was not done on time, then it is necessary to lay the film immediately after putting the house into operation.
Helpful advice! An excellent material for hydro- and vapor barriers are moisture-windproof membranes. This material allows air to circulate and retains moisture from it inside. It can be used when insulating the floor with penofol or other insulation.
The main stages of laying insulation
by the most the best option installation is the laying of floor insulation along the logs. These cross boards are used for subsequent flooring. floor covering.
The main stages of work:
- a log is installed on the finished foundation. The recommended distance between the bars is not more than 1-1.2 m;
- after that, thick plywood or chipboard sheets are installed. They are fixed with self-tapping screws. This is how the base is prepared for laying the heat-insulating layer;
- insulation is laid between the wooden lags. Depending on the material used, the thickness of this layer may vary. In any case, it should not exceed the size of the lag itself;
- then a layer of waterproofing is laid. Although this step is recommended by experts for maximum effect, it can be skipped. This is due to the resistance of some materials to moisture;
- Now you can lay the flooring. It may be old. Or it can be replaced with a new one.
Compliance with this sequence will allow you to insulate the wooden floor with foam or other insulation.
Features insulation with sawdust
Floor insulation with sawdust is an eco-friendly and affordable way to keep the heat in the house. When choosing this heater, you must adhere to a number of recommendations:
- broken glass should be added to the prepared mixture of sawdust with cement or clay. This will prevent the appearance of rodents. Do not forget about the use of special solutions;
- the mixture consists of five parts of sawdust, one part of cement (clay) and half of water. This proportion must be observed. When mixing a steeper solution, you will get a durable insulation, but with a low thermal conductivity;
- carefully fill the voids between the lags. This will allow you to get an even layer of insulation. If you don't endure this technology, the thermal insulation will be "leaky", and the floor will remain cold.
Helpful advice! Due to the presence on the market of a large number insulation materials and the time spent on preparing the mixture, sawdust is rarely used for insulation. However, they will help solve the issue of isolation with a limited financial budget.
Features of foam insulation
Due to its high strength and affordable cost, foam floor insulation in a wooden house is more common than other materials.
Among the features of the installation of this insulation, we note the following points:
- penoplex is laid between the lags and fastened to the floor from below with mounting glue;
- it is necessary to accurately and tightly fit the edges of the plates. This will avoid the penetration of cold air;
- joints are additionally glued for maximum adhesion;
- a waterproofing layer is required. This is especially important for a private house or cottage in a swampy area;
- before laying foam wooden bars and the crossbars are treated with a special solution. This will avoid rotting and the appearance of bugs.
Helpful advice! If you live in apartment building, then the choice of penoplex as a heater for the floor - The best decision. This material is laid in a thin layer and does not affect the height of the room.
Due to its light weight, penoplex is great for floor insulation in a frame house. The load on the foundation of the building will be minimal. This will avoid shrinkage of the house over time.
The main points of expanded clay insulation
The laying of this insulation takes place according to the technology described above. However, there are a number of features that you need to be aware of. To conduct floor insulation in a wooden house with expanded clay, you must:
- be sure to lay a pillow of sand. It is poured in an even layer and carefully rammed;
- a layer of liquid mastic is applied on top of this pillow. It plays the role of waterproofing;
- now expanded clay falls asleep. In order for the layer to be as even as possible and without voids, it is recommended to use a material of different fractions. This will allow the granules to fit closer to each other;
- vapor barrier is required. Only after it can the main flooring be laid.
Due to the significant weight of this material, it is better to insulate a wooden floor with expanded clay with a solid foundation.
Do-it-yourself warming of a wooden floor in a house: video
Today on the Internet there are a great many training videos for self-assembly of insulation. Viewing them will allow you to understand the technology of work, the principles of choice and the main stages of laying materials. In addition, these videos contain a large number of useful points. So you can find out, for example, about the correct filling of the floor screed with insulation with polystyrene foam.
In order for the floor in the house to turn out to be warm, it is necessary to take into account many nuances. Right choice insulation plays an important role in this. When choosing a material for yourself, you should not start from the price or installation technology. Consider the type of building, the nuances of the landscape and the features of the operation of the house (permanent or seasonal). Based on this, you can choose the perfect floor insulation.
Wooden house - eco-friendly and cozy. However, in order to be comfortable in our climate, the house must be properly insulated. Insulation work includes not only giving additional thickness to the walls and ceiling, but also floor insulation measures - a lot of heated air can leak through cracks and holes in the floor.
In a house with an insulated floor, you don’t look like socks in winter - you have to pull on felt boots or uggs. And in general, living in such a room is uncomfortable, especially if there are small children who love to crawl just on the floor. The importance of floor insulation in a wooden house is undeniable - we will consider this issue in more detail in the article.
General requirements
What characteristics should a modern safe and high-quality insulation have?
- Ease. Insulation should not weigh down the structure of the building.
- Durability and reliability. Properly selected material is sure to become a reliable support for the whole house.
- Safety. Mandatory requirement. It is important that the selected material fully complies with all sanitary standards and is not toxic.
- Easy to install. Installation of insulation should not cause difficulties.
- Low thermal conductivity. This main characteristic material, since its main functional purpose is to keep heat in the house.
- Density. The higher the density of the material, the better it will protect the home from the winter cold.
On the video - floor insulation in a wooden house:
How to insulate
What materials are best suited for floor insulation in a wooden house.
Sand or expanded clay
The simplest natural materials that can be used for floor insulation. In addition, they are also the most inexpensive. These heaters are simply poured onto the rough flooring, thereby creating a dense layer between this flooring and the usual floor.
These materials are of natural origin, which means they are safe from an environmental point of view. In addition, they have a dry structure and absorb moisture well - this will help protect the floor from fungus and mold.
Minus - the ability to absorb moisture over time with these materials is lost, so we can not talk about the durability of these heaters.
It will also be interesting to learn about the technical characteristics and price of Isover insulation:
Sawdust
wood sawdust- one of the inexpensive and environmentally friendly materials that can be used to insulate the floor wooden house. It is elementary to simply lay wood sawdust - they are simply poured onto the subfloor, tamping a little - special construction tricks are not required here.
On the photo-expanded clay for warming a wooden house:
The downside is that sawdust is combustible and short-lived, and it will be somewhat better. But what are the proportions of the floor screed with sawdust and how to do it right, is described in great detail in this
Fiberglass
One of the modern materials, but now it has been replaced by even more “advanced” mineral wool. Fiberglass is made from waste glass production, produced in the form of plates different sizes and thickness.
In the photo - fiberglass for insulation
The material is safe, environmentally friendly and free of toxic impurities. Fiberglass is non-flammable and fire resistant.
This is a dense material that has a low level of thermal conductivity. With its help, you can perfectly insulate your home. The disadvantage of the material is its high cost compared to others. But what are the characteristics of basalt wool and where it is used in construction, information will help to understand
Mineral wool
The most common type of heaters. It is applied to all surfaces of the house - both for a ceiling, and for walls, perfectly is suitable also for a floor. Mineral wool can be produced from basalt, stone chips, slag, and other waste products from various industries.
In the photo - mineral wool for warming a wooden house
Cotton wool perfectly absorbs noise. This material is durable and reliable - its service life at the initial quality choice may take decades. Cotton wool is resistant to chemical, mechanical, and thermal effects. All these qualities make the material one of the most attractive heaters on the modern market. Quite often used.
The material reliably protects the house from the cold, as it has a low level of thermal conductivity. Also, cotton wool has a high level of water repellency, so it is suitable for homes that are in a humid climate. However, the material is afraid of direct dampness - in this case, it immediately loses its technical characteristics. Therefore, when insulating the floor with mineral wool, make sure that there are no water leaks in the basement.
But many are concerned about the question of whether they have mineral and. Mineral wool is safe, does not cause allergies. Cotton wool does not last too long - insulation with this material will cost less than with polystyrene foam or fiberglass boards.
The disadvantages include low vapor permeability. Due to the fact that cotton wool does not pass steam well, condensate can accumulate on its surface, which will freeze in winter. But it's because of . Therefore, laying mineral wool provides additional vapor barrier.
Penofol
It is one of the latest scientifically developed insulation materials. It is a rolled material, one side of which is made of foil. In addition to foil, the composition of the material also includes several layers of insulation, creating a kind of sandwich that perfectly retains heat in the room.
On the photo-penofol for a wooden floor in the house:
Penofol is good because it is very easy to install. Even a person who does not have special construction skills can roll a roll on the floor. Penofol perfectly withstands mechanical loads, shocks, endures high temperatures. The material is dense, so it can be laid in a thin layer. And here's how to do it right, is described in this article.
Penofol has excellent vapor permeability, so additional vapor barrier is not required. You can save a lot on this.
Insulation thickness
It should be noted that for each specific house this indicator is calculated individually - and the thickness of the material that is suitable for a house in the southern latitudes may differ radically from the thickness of the material for a northern cottage. Also, this calculation includes other features.
On the video, the thickness of the floor insulation in a wooden house:
What do these mysterious letters mean:
- R is the level of thermal resistance of the structure. This level is different for each climatic zone. You can find it out from the application map, which is attached to the SNiP.
- A - coefficient of the level of thermal conductivity of the insulation. Each type of insulating material has its own. You can see it on the packaging of the material. Some coefficients are also indicated in SNiP.
With this formula, you can accurately determine how thick you suitable insulation, so that it is guaranteed not to freeze and achieve the optimal temperature in the house.
Attention: if according to the formula it turns out that in your house the insulation layer should be thin, then experts recommend using polystyrene foam or rolled materials in this case. Such heaters can best protect the house, even if the layer is not too thick.
Manufacturers and prices
Let's find out what brands in the modern market of building materials offer customers best choice quality heaters.
Rockwool
One of the most widespread and demanded brands of heaters in the Russian and world market. Produces mainly basalt mineral heaters- for ceiling, floor and walls.
In the photo - floor insulation from Rockwool
This manufacturer produces truly high-quality materials. Rockwool insulation is very dense, non-flammable and durable. Available in slabs. The cost depends on the brand of the product, on average - 140-230 rubles per square meter.
euroisole
This brand produces mineral wool with high technical characteristics. Cotton wool Euroizol is non-combustible, withstands significant mechanical and chemical loads. Doesn't absorb moisture well. The cost of a cubic meter of this material is on average 4000 rubles.
In the photo - floor insulation from Euroizol
Linerock
This is a heater that has excellent vapor permeability, which means that the house will not look like a hermetically puttied room - normal air exchange will take place in it. This will create a favorable microclimate in the room.
In the photo, floor insulation from Lineroc
Linerock is available in slabs, suitable for walls and floors. The cost is 140-170 rubles per sq. m.
Isover
One of the most popular heaters on the Russian market. It is a high-quality glass wool with high performance characteristics. Izover is a very strong and durable material with a low degree of shrinkage. The cost is approximately 150 rubles per square meter.
In the photo, floor insulation from Izover
These are just a few of the variety of manufacturers, brands and brands on the market of modern building materials. On sale you can also find high-quality heaters of such brands as Ragos, TechnoNIKOL, Penoplex, Knauf and others. The choice depends on the characteristics of your climate and specifications building.
We reviewed the most popular and optimal floor insulation in a wooden house. When choosing the right option for yourself, be sure to consider all its pros and cons - and then your home will be warm, safe and comfortable.
At present, environmentally friendly low-rise construction of houses from wood materials. Traditional log cabins made of rounded logs, cottages made of timber and even houses built from lightweight materials, their owners try to sheathe them with a board or clapboard. The same considerations, in order to create a microclimate closer to nature in a dwelling, are also guided by the choice of material for floors, giving preference to wood as a lighter, but sufficiently durable material.
Due to its natural origin, wood has a fairly low thermal conductivity, but in the Russian climate it still needs additional thermal insulation.
Options
There is a fairly large selection of fillers for insulation floors, floor and ceiling. It can be difficult for an inexperienced builder to understand the properties of one or another insulation, objectively assess their advantages and disadvantages, and make the right choice.
The thing is that different heat-insulating materials are more applicable for some operating conditions and less suitable for others. Insulation of such specific premises as attic, underground, veranda requires a special approach, so it is worth studying all the properties of materials in order to produce the insulation device as efficiently as possible.
The following factors influence the choice of heat-insulating material:
- Humidity. Permanent dampness in the room (basements with open ground or insufficient waterproofing of the foundation, bathrooms, winter gardens or home greenhouses) or the likelihood of an increase in humidity in it (balconies, rooms for drying clothes, bathrooms or steam rooms);
- The purpose of the premises. Some types of materials contain certain resins or adhesives in their composition, which, for safety reasons, are not suitable for bedrooms or children's rooms.
- Possibility of damage by rodents or insects, resistance to fungal attack. Some of the materials appeal to rodents, while others are repulsive to them.
- Lower and upper temperature limits. Some heat insulators are unstable to severe frosts, while others lose their properties or are completely deformed and become unusable with significant heating.
It should be borne in mind that the heat-insulating material should “work in both directions” - not only protect the home from low temperatures in winter, but also maintain a comfortable environment for humans and pets in the summer heat.
Last but not least, the general condition of the house also affects the choice of insulation and the method of performing thermal insulation:
- the age of the building - in an old house one method is required, in a newly built one - another;
- foundation construction method - on bored or screw piles, on reinforced concrete blocks or on light foundations of small depth;
- the number of storeys of the building and the site of work - whether the floor is insulated for the 1st or 2nd floor.
Bottom
In most cases, wooden houses are built with a high base, that is, the height of the subfloor allows insulation from below. The only exception may be the southern regions, where private houses are being built on stable soils using the technology of erecting low-rise buildings on shallow piles. But even there, in most cases, they try to comply with the traditional construction of houses with a high base.
Otherwise, if the subfloor is not high enough, to insulate the floor of the first floor, it will be necessary to remove the floor board to the log or other supporting structure.
Thus, it is possible to insulate from below with a sufficiently high subfloor for the first floor or insulation of the floor of the second floor, which, accordingly, is the ceiling for the first floor.
The performance of thermal insulation work in the underground is not much more complicated than the same work when insulating the floor of the second floor, but it has a number of features. Before starting work, you need to prepare the place and provide yourself with both the minimum comfort and the necessary level of security.
Most likely, there are no windows in the basement, so first of all you need to take care of sufficient lighting. If there are no stationary lamps, waterproof portable light sources on a flexible cord of sufficient length should be used.
For the same reason, in the underground space there is extremely poor natural ventilation, and sometimes it is completely absent. Unfortunately, many builders do not take this factor into account, which has an extremely negative impact on labor productivity. Exhaled carbon dioxide is heavier than other gases that make up atmospheric air, and therefore tends to the bottom.
And since the underground is the lowest point, carbon dioxide accumulates here, disrupts the full breathing of the worker, causes increased fatigue, drowsiness and, in especially severe cases, fainting. That's why it is important to ensure sufficient supply ventilation from inside the house or from the street.
Of course, for the duration of the work in the basement, it is necessary to remove all things stored there, products and other objects that interfere with the free movement of the repairman.
If in the subfield open ground, if possible, it should be leveled and compacted. In the best case, if the budget allows, pour concrete at least 10 cm high with reinforcement, thereby significantly reducing the humidity in the underground space. This will significantly extend the service life load-bearing elements plinth, and wooden floor structures.
In the absence of natural passive ventilation of the subfloor, it will not be superfluous to make outer walls small (about 10 * 10 cm) ventilation vents. This will improve the microclimate in the cellar, additionally prevent an increase in humidity and, as a result, avoid mold damage to wooden structures.
Having finished preparatory work, first of all, you need to check the condition of the supporting elements - beams, logs, support columns.
Having identified areas of mold damage, carefully clean the surface with a spatula, sandpaper (popularly called “skin”), and then soak twice with antiseptic solutions. Then, all accessible wooden elements are abundantly impregnated with fire and bio- protective compounds, dry thoroughly.
If the foundation and plinth are built using concrete or brick (block), these areas need to be processed bituminous mastic to protect against moisture. If the works are carried out on days of high atmospheric humidity, it may be necessary to additionally dry them using heating equipment.
In some cases, a conventional household fan heater will suffice, but for large underground spaces, a building heat gun may be required. In no case do not use gas or petrol/diesel heat gun , it is permissible to use only electric, and that should not be left unattended for safety reasons.
For insulation from below, it is rather inconvenient to perform work with rolled heat-insulating materials, such as mineral wool or isolon. Moreover, they are not suitable for these purposes. bulk materials- sawdust, expanded clay and the like. Therefore, preference should be given to insulation in sheets - foam, foam, and so on.
First of all, it is necessary to fix the vapor barrier material, in most cases it is a polyethylene film. For underfloor conditions, it is preferable to choose a film with a thickness of 350 microns or more, if possible even denser.
It must be fixed, observing a full fit with a construction stapler along the logs (beams), taking into account all irregularities, bends and height differences, in places of sagging, additionally fasten along the floor boards. Fragments of the film must be laid with an overlap of at least 10 cm on one another, fasten the edges with a wide adhesive tape. Overlap on walls and vertical structures - at least 25 cm.
After that, you need to proceed with the installation of heat-insulating material in the intervals between the lags. If possible, fragments of the heat insulator should be cut so that there are no extra gaps between them and the lags, and the insulation itself does not fall out. If necessary, if the fragment is not held by the edges of the logs, it can be temporarily fixed with self-tapping screws, and the gap between its edges and the logs can be filled mounting foam.
It should be remembered that the metal self-tapping screw has a very high thermal conductivity, therefore, after the building foam has hardened, they must all be removed.
Also, after the heat-insulating material has been laid over the entire surface of the ceiling, all inevitably occurring gaps must be filled with mounting foam, and after it has hardened, cut off the protruding excess.
After that, to ensure a more reliable retention of the heat-insulating material, it is necessary to fix it from below with a light filing. The most economical option fiberboard sheets, but low-grade plywood, edged boards and a number of other materials are also suitable. Do not use GKL (gypsum plasterboard) due to its high hygroscopicity and fragility.
After completing the filing, you should fix another layer of vapor and waterproofing. You can also use plastic wrap. In this case, it is permissible to use isolon, foilizol and other composite materials.
Above
In this case, there are two options for insulation, radically different from one another:
- Without dismantling the floor covering. Logs are laid on the old floor, insulation is placed between them and a new floor covering is placed on top.
- With dismantling. In this case, the boards are marked, dismantled and taken out of the room where they are being repaired. The insulation is mounted between the existing joists, then the floor boards are installed back.
In the first case, the level of the floor rises - depending on the technology used, by a height of 10 to 25, and in some cases even 30 cm. This method is more cost-effective and reduces the usable volume of the room. But if the budget allows and the ceilings are high enough, this option can significantly reduce the time to complete the work.
In the second case, the floor height remains at the same level, but the builder will need more work and time.
Whichever option is chosen, before starting all work, all furniture must be removed from the room, the floor must be freed from carpet or other covering, and the baseboard must be removed.
First you need to check the condition of the floor boards. Elements damaged by rotting or affected by mold must be replaced, unstable elements must be fixed. On the old boards, you need to apply soil, antiseptic impregnations and dry, if necessary, use additional heat sources for this.
As with inspection underground space, affected by the fungus, but the areas that have retained strength must be cleaned to healthy wood and soaked abundantly with antiseptics.
Experienced builders recommend for these purposes to use a composition that is practical and completely safe for humans and pets, but so unloved by rodents and woodworm insects - a cool solution of ordinary table salt. To prepare it, salt is added to hot water until it stops stirring.
The parts of the board previously cleaned from mold damage from the outside are thickly spilled with hot saline. Found gaps between the boards or cracks in them must be filled construction foam, top level with an oil-based or acrylic-based putty. After drying, lay a waterproofing material - a plastic film or penofol, glue the joints with a wide adhesive tape.
After that, the lags are laid. You should choose a timber from coniferous wood, the minimum section of which is 50 * 50mm. However, if the floor of the lower floor is insulated and at the same time enhanced thermal insulation is required, then, accordingly, a beam of a larger section is required.
Dried timber is preferred without visible deformations (without bends along any of the axes), chips and other damage. It is important to consider that between the insulation and the top board there should be a gap of 1 - 2 cm for natural air microcirculation and humidity compensation, therefore, the height of the material for the log must be calculated with a margin.
As a frame, in addition to timber, it is permissible to use edged board thickness from 50 mm of the corresponding width, installed on the edge (the wider side will be located vertically) - in this case, a more rigid fastening of the boards to the floor is required. You may need metal corners with a shelf length of at least half the width of the board: for example, if a board with a section of 50 * 120 mm is selected for installation on an edge, then the length of the metal corner shelf must be at least 60 mm. The installation step of the corners is no more than 1 meter.
It is strongly not recommended to use unedged materials, since larvae or even adults of wood-boring insects can be preserved in wane (bark residues) on wood, and, unfortunately, it is not always possible to eliminate them with the help of bioprotective impregnations.
Start laying from the highest area selected with building level. The lag laying scheme is quite simple. The step must be maintained constant - from 50 to 60 cm. Horizontalness should be observed as far as possible, if necessary, placing rigid inserts resistant to moisture and fungus from below. Logs are attached to the floor with self-tapping screws in increments of 100-120 cm.
Heat-insulating material is placed in the space between the lags. When insulating from above, the choice is no longer limited to sheet insulation. In this case, it is possible to lay not boards on the floor, but plywood of sufficient thickness, then the floor will last even a little longer.
Do-it-yourself algorithm
Insulation from above with the dismantling of the floor boards implies that the floor boards have been checked, their condition is satisfactory and they do not need to be replaced.
Before starting the dismantling, the boards must be marked, indicating their order and orientation, since in the case of tongue-and-groove boards or tongue-and-groove fastening, an orientation error will violate their mutual fastening. The indication of the upper side will be the surface on which the marking is applied.
Dismantling must be done with the utmost care, without damaging the material. If the boards are screwed with self-tapping screws, they all need to be unscrewed and only then lifted one at a time, starting from the edge of the room.
Some difficulty in finding attachment points with self-tapping screws can be created by old paint if the floor has been painted. A simple way will help with this - using a magnet, possibly from an old speaker (column). Although today a more powerful neodymium magnet is relatively inexpensive. With its help, there is a self-tapping screw head, the paint is peeled off with a spatula and the self-tapping screw is unscrewed.
Dismantling is performed a little differently if the boards are nailed. In no case should you try to remove the nails with pliers or a nail puller, this will only damage the board. Nail heads are also easily located with a magnet, these places are marked with a marker.
The builders of the “old school” use an ax to dismantle the boards: they carefully wedge it between the lag and the board, without damaging either one or the other, and lift the edge of the board with a slight wiggle.
You can use a pry bar or a flat-tipped nail puller. There is no need to try to lift the entire board at once, wedging with an ax in only one place, the wood can split from this.
It is necessary to raise the board at each attachment point to a small height, then go along the board again, repeating this operation. When the edge is already noticeably raised, place an additional support under the tool and raise the entire board. Wherein it is important to ensure that the tongue or tongue of the board is not damaged.
Old nails must be knocked out with a hammer from the side of the point, and when the head of the nail rises above the board, remove it with tongs or pliers. Having removed the boards, the builder opens the logs and, if their condition is satisfactory, lays a plastic film using a construction stapler, fastens the joints with adhesive tape and mounts heat-insulating material.
In both cases, with open logs, they should be impregnated with fire and bioprotective substances and dried thoroughly before laying the insulation.
If bulk material is used - be it sawdust, wood concrete granules, expanded clay or any other, it is necessary to carefully level the layer of insulating material, avoiding too loose laying or, conversely, excessive compaction, fill in all irregularities and cracks. In case of application roll materials you need to try to cut in accordance with the geometry of the space between the lags, avoid gaps and crushing, do not leave voids.
It should be remembered that many rolled heat-insulating materials lose their properties when wet and turn from a heat insulator into heat conductors. When working with sheet material, you should try to cut as accurately as possible, avoid bending sheets, fill gaps and voids with mounting foam.
At the end of the laying of the heat insulator, regardless of how hygroscopic the material is, it is necessary to lay a polyethylene or other moisture-proof film again, and after that the boards should be mounted.
Thermal insulation materials
The modern market offers a fairly wide selection of materials for thermal insulation, and the inexperienced home master it can be difficult to choose the most suitable wood floor insulation.
In addition to the price, each type of material has its own advantages, and some have obvious disadvantages:
- Penoplex. Sheet insulation, produced in a fairly wide range of thicknesses. Sufficiently durable and at the same time easily processed material with high heat-insulating characteristics, resistant to moisture and mechanical stress. For ease of installation, it is available in a tongue-and-groove version. Afraid of high temperatures and organic solvents. Unattractive to rodents and insects.
- Styrofoam. Unlike the older brother - penoplex, it is softer, less resistant to moisture, and can crumble when cutting. At the same time, it has a much lower density and, as a result, a somewhat greater heat-insulating ability. Unlike penoplex and EPPS, it does not contain styrenes in its composition, that is, it is somewhat safer when used in living rooms.
- EPPS- extruded polystyrene foam. In fact, this is the same penoplex, but with slight differences in production technology. In terms of characteristics, it is neither inferior nor superior to it.
- Sawdust. This bulk material is very cheap, in some cases even free, as it is actually a waste product. One of the most environmentally friendly and safe materials for humans and pets. It should be remembered that sawdust cannot be laid in its pure form, otherwise the invasion of rodents and insects cannot be avoided. Sawdust must be mixed with cement or clay, while adding fire retardant, antiseptic and antifungal solutions. Sawdust is intolerant of dampness and, without proper processing and moisture insulation, is easily susceptible to rotting and mold damage. Over time, they become caked, losing their insulating qualities.
- Expanded clay. Lightweight porous bulk material made of baked clay, which is why it is absolutely harmless. Resistant to high temperatures. Expanded clay does not have closed pores, which is why it is hygroscopic and needs high-quality waterproofing.
- Penofol. It is a foamed polyethylene coated on one side (rarely on both sides) aluminum foil. It has high moisture resistance, in terms of heat-insulating characteristics it is noticeably inferior to polystyrene foam. Very sensitive to even slight heat. It is not damaged by a fungus, it is not subject to rotting. When using, one feature should be taken into account - the foil side should be facing a warm room.
- Izospan. High-quality material for vapor and waterproofing. Used as a protection against moisture, it allows wooden structures to "breathe", that is, it does not interfere with air exchange with the environment. combustible Resistant to fungal attack.
- Izolon. Foamed polyethylene without foil. Due to the peculiarities of production, it is not produced with a thickness of more than 7 mm, therefore, it does not have a heat insulator practical application. At the same time, it is a high-quality waterproofing material with some soundproofing properties. Sensitive to high temperatures, resistant to fungus, not damaged by rodents or insects.
- Ecowool. Cellulose-based extrusion material. It is rarely used in private housing construction, as it requires specialized equipment and trained personnel for application. Unfortunately, it is not uncommon for a contractor to violate the formulation of the original composition in order to reduce the cost, as a result of which this material of high thermal insulation characteristics eventually begins to evaporate toxic substances into the environment.
- polyurethane foam, like cellulose ecowool, requires specialized equipment for application. Not included in the composition harmful substances. During hardening, it forms closed pores, which excludes any evaporation of substances into the environment. On the part of the contractor is not subject to violation of the recipe. Frost- and heat-resistant, not subject to rotting, mold, fungal attack. It has high noise and heat insulating characteristics.
- Mineral wool. One of the most undemanding and easy-to-use heat-insulating materials. It is afraid of moisture, but after drying it restores its properties. Thanks to the filling with mineral chips, it eliminates damage by rodents or insects, and the absence of organic fillers prevents rotting or mold damage. Easily wrinkled material, therefore requires careful handling
When choosing an insulating material, it is imperative to read the instructions for use attached to it. This document details the characteristics: thermal conductivity, allowable temperature range, humidity, and so on.
Typical mistakes
In some cases, builders, relying on the moisture resistance of the material declared by the manufacturer, neglect additional waterproofing. Rapid temperature fluctuations in high humidity environments can cause condensation to form, as can water flowing directly from the room through cracks in the floor. When freezing, water causes cracking or rupture of pores in the material, which drastically reduces the heat-insulating qualities.
When insulating the floor of the first floor with foam, the material is sometimes left open. The fact is that mice often gnaw on foam plastic, taking away its crumbs and “insulating” their holes with it. This approach helps to preserve the vapor barrier layer and, if necessary, update the heat insulator sheets without any problems.
It happens that the builder will save on tape and leave the overlap of the plastic film loose. The moisture contained in the air penetrates through the edges of the film into the mineral wool and it becomes damp. That's why It is important to monitor compliance with the technology of work by employees.
Examples of successful designs
Consider the following:
- The classic "pie" when insulated from above with the use of a screed under the finished floor.
- Installation of the log "in a row", backfilling with expanded clay on top of the film, covered with plywood.
- High-quality filling of gaps between lags and sheets with building foam.
- Laying slabs in the space between the beams on top of the isospan layer.
- Application wide boards edge-mounted.
- Double-sided mineral wool waterproofing.
Good thermal insulation reduces heat loss by 20–40%, and in some cases even more. At the same time, a properly selected floor insulation in a wooden house not only reduces heating costs, but also directly affects the microclimate in the rooms. You need to know how to pick it up. Do you agree?
You will learn all about the thermal insulation options that are acceptable for arranging a wooden floor from the article we have proposed. We will tell you what criteria affect the choice and how to take them into account. Our recommendations will help to competently equip the lower floor in a structure made of timber or logs.
There is no universal thermal insulation material for all cases. To insulate each structure in a private house (foundation, bearing walls, ceiling) you should choose your best option.
And even in the same cottage the floors are different rooms often have to be insulated with various thermal insulation. The requirements for thermal conductivity of floors in them often differ.
The choice of insulation for the floor strongly depends on the design of the floor, as well as the type of rooms below and above - if one of them is not heated, then the amount suitable options thermal insulation is drastically reduced
It is necessary to distinguish between floors in a wooden house between:
- basement and first floor;
- residential floors.
In the second case, insulation is usually not produced. Above and below are heated rooms with approximately the same microclimate parameters. It is not required to separate them from each other with additional thermal insulation.
But the floor above the basement will have to be insulated in a wooden house in any case. And it doesn’t matter if the basement is used in any way or the wind is blowing from below between the supports of the pile foundation.
Only the version of the insulation and its thickness will change. But you will have to lay the thermal insulation anyway, otherwise the heat loss through the non-insulated ceiling will be quite noticeable.
The floor in a wooden house on the ground floor is mounted:
- on the ground;
- along the lags or on the screed;
- along the beams.
The first option is usually used with a low strip foundation. The second - at foundation in the form of a monolithic slab. And the third - in all other situations.
And in each case, the insulation should be selected individually. For example, it is impossible to put mineral wool on the ground, it will quickly dampen and deteriorate during such installation.
When using insulation, the subfloor must be well ventilated, otherwise the heat-insulating material itself, as well as those in contact with it, will begin to deteriorate from condensate. wooden logs floor and log crown
The main reason for the damage to the "pie" of the insulated floor on the ground floor above the basement is excess moisture. The heat insulator and the structure of such a floor in a private wooden house are affected by moisture from the ground and the condensate formed due to temperature changes, as well as water spilled during cleaning.
Polymer waterproofing films are used to protect the insulation. But if the floor insulation system is arranged without ventilation, then films that interfere with the free removal of condensate can even do harm. When the insulation gets wet, it will lose its insulating characteristics, and it will become an excellent breeding ground for the fungus.
Possible materials for insulation
There is an incredible amount of heaters on the domestic market. But not all of them are suitable for a low-rise house made of logs or timber.
On the one hand, one should take into account the compatibility of the selected heat-insulating material and the wood from which the residential building was built. And on the other hand, do not forget about the environmental friendliness of all building materials used.
The main advantage of a cottage made of wood is environmental friendliness. Insulate the floor in it with synthetics should only be a last resort.
Among the variety of heaters for a wooden house are recommended:
- stone wool;
- cellulose-based ecowool;
- expanded clay;
- sawdust;
- fibrolite.
Also, in some situations, you can use. But it is best to do without this material, preferring a more environmentally friendly insulation from the list above.
Option #1 - stone mineral wool
Mineral wool is made from fiberglass, slag from blast furnaces and rocks. In wooden houses, it is worth using the last of these types - cotton wool insulation made from basalt fibers. It is the safest for humans and environmentally friendly - there are practically no synthetic binders in it.
Stone wool has:
- low thermal conductivity 0.034–0.04 W / (m * K);
- excellent vapor permeability;
- good noise reduction.
Basalt insulation is not subject to decay, does not burn and can easily withstand heating up to 700 ° C without loss of performance.
It is necessary to insulate a residential cottage with glass wool only from the outside. This type of mineral wool is distinguished by the fragility of glass fibers, which cause irritation when dropped on the skin and mucous membranes.
Option #2 - cellulose ecowool
This material is environmentally friendly, resistant to mold and incombustible. In the manufacture of ecowool, cellulose (waste paper production) is impregnated with antiseptics and fire retardants.
Fire and fungi are not afraid of her. At the same time, this heat-insulating material can absorb moisture up to 15% of its own weight.
Also, ecowool cannot be mounted near the bases of root chimneys, the foundations of stoves and fireplaces. Under the influence of high temperatures, cellulose will smolder. Due to the abundance of flame retardants, it will not light up. But the gradual smoldering of paper will inevitably thin the insulation layer and lead to an increase in heat loss.
The main disadvantage of ecowool is its high moisture absorption - if such a heater is not dried by ventilation, then it will quickly lose its thermal insulation properties.
Option #3 - sawdust
If you want to get the most environmentally friendly housing, then in a wooden cottage you can use sawdust. They are poured in a compacted layer 10-40 cm thick between the lag, which gives a fairly high-quality insulation without any chemistry.
Sawdust is the cheapest of the existing heaters. They are tested by time and long practice. However, this material, like any wood, is flammable. Whether it is worth adding flammable fuel to a potential fire in a wooden house is an open question.
Option # 4 - expanded clay
The second line in terms of cheapness after sawdust can be deservedly given to expanded clay. This insulation is made from fired clay. It is in the form of granules with many air-filled voids inside.
Of the minuses of expanded clay, only its high hygroscopicity is worth mentioning. If the expanded clay granule is split, then it will absorb water like a sponge. Without an underlying waterproofing in the form of a thick polyethylene film, such insulation cannot be poured.
Expanded clay is ideal for floor insulation on the ground. It is also often used when arranging an insulated concrete screed, pouring it from below or using it as a filler for a mortar.
Option #5 - Styrofoam
This material is presented on the market by foam plastic and slab (EPS). If you take it, then for floor insulation only the second option is extruded polystyrene foam. It is denser and absorbs moisture much less.
Styrofoam and wood are often called antagonists. The first does not let moisture through, and the second, on the contrary, absorbs it well and then releases it to the air.
However, when correct installation XPS and polystyrene are quite allowed to be combined with wooden structures. It is only necessary to leave a gap between the polystyrene foam insulation and the wood for ventilation so that condensate does not accumulate there.
The main disadvantages of EPPS are flammability with the release of harmful gases and low vapor permeability. Even the presence of additives does not save this insulation from open fire, and the impermeability of water vapor does not allow the wooden floor to breathe
Option #6 - Fiberboard
Fiberboard is made from wood shavings and cement. This is an excellent insulation, which is not yet very widespread in Russia.
Fiberboard is characterized by a rather high hygroscopicity. It dries quickly, which, however, is possible only in conditions of good ventilation. It is a non-flammable, harmless to humans, non-rotten and breathable heat insulator. Just don't let it get wet and frozen.
Fiberboard has excellent heat and sound insulation characteristics. This is a high-quality and durable insulation that cannot be used only when laying the floor directly on the ground.
Choosing the best insulation
If you need the most environmentally friendly material, then the choice should be stopped on sawdust, expanded clay or fiberboard. Basalt wool is also ready to give a serious head start to expanded polystyrene in this respect.
If the house is located in a wet area with high GWL, then preference for floor insulation should be given to EPPS - due to its resistance to moisture, it will last longer in the basement than other options
The floors in the bathroom, toilet and kitchen are also recommended to be insulated with extruded polystyrene foam. These rooms are characterized by high humidity. The more moisture resistant insulation is used in them or under them, the longer such material will last.
However, if the ventilation in the subfield is well organized, then ordinary mineral wool can also be used.
For comparison, the table below shows the main characteristics of heaters:
When choosing the better to insulate the floor in a wooden house, you should compare the available options by:
- thermal conductivity;
- vapor permeability;
- combustibility;
- environmental friendliness;
- durability (resistance to moisture and fungus);
- price.
The lower the thermal conductivity of the insulation, the better it is. Vapor permeability affects its ability to breathe and conduct condensate to the outside.
Expanded clay and sawdust are considered the cheapest heat insulators. More expensive - fiberboard, ecowool and EPPS.
The following article will acquaint you with the diagrams of the installation of the floor insulation system, built along the logs.
When choosing a heater for the floor, you should focus on the features of the room to be insulated, the type of foundation and the available budget.
In most cases, the best option is environmentally friendly and non-combustible basalt mineral wool. But if the floor is settled on the ground, then it is better to use expanded clay. And if the basement has high humidity, then preference should be given to expanded polystyrene.
Tell us about how you insulated the floor in wooden building with my own hands. Share which insulation option you preferred and why. Please leave comments in the block below, ask questions and publish photos on the topic of the article.
Article plan
An important criterion for maintaining heat in the house is a securely equipped floor. How to insulate the floor in a wooden house so that staying indoors is comfortable even in cold weather? Among the methods of floor insulation, the most popular and popular are the creation of a double floor system and the insulation of an existing floor during repairs.
Double floor system in the house
When planning a house, it is important to consider that a double floor system includes a subfloor and a finishing floor. Together with the insulation, they form a kind of layered structure, which not only bears the load, but also prevents heat loss.
subfloor flooring
The first layer of the floor is rough, made of unhewn, well-fitted boards, on which a layer of sand or expanded clay is poured. This method provides ventilation of the floor and prevents the growth of fungus. But this is far from the best solution. We advise you to think about effective insulation subfloor: hygroscopic materials like expanded clay lose their properties over time.
Since it will subsequently be necessary to lay a layer of insulation between the finishing and subfloor, we immediately provide for the necessary distance between them. As a material for the subfloor in a wooden house, you can use boards that were previously used for formwork during the construction of the foundation - provided that you took care of their safety in the process of pouring the foundation of the house. To lay the draft floor to the lags, a beam is fastened with screws (a section of 50 by 50 mm is enough), and the boards of the floor itself (25 by 150 mm) are already nailed to it. It is advisable to treat them with antiseptics before this in order to avoid the development of the fungus. It is advisable to waterproof the subfloor in a wooden or any other house only if hygroscopic heat-insulating materials are used.
The draft floor along the logs is a universal design that is widely used in building. The material used is a board about 150 mm wide and 40-50 mm thick, which is fastened with screws to wooden floor beams. The logs are not brought to the walls by 2-3 cm, the resulting gap is filled with mineral wool.
Finished flooring
The finished floor is laid on top of the draft. The floor is made of neat hewn milled boards with a groove-thorn connection, which are located at a height of 3-4 cm from the draft. The thickness of the boards can be from 3 to 4.4 cm, the width is from 9.8 to 14.5 cm. Each board has a longitudinal recess on the back, which facilitates the movement of air under the floor. In addition to milled boards for floor insulation in a wooden house, variants of tongue-and-groove boards with a fold, boards with a spike, boards with a lath into a tongue and groove are used.
Such boards have a planed front side, but there is no airflow. It is more difficult to make flooring from them - the raw back part leads to an incomplete fit of the boards on the logs. The most time-consuming work is considered to be the laying of finishing floors from unedged boards. On such boards you need to trim front side, cutting off the wane with an ax.
Boards are laid on top of the logs as finishing floors, or fiberboard sheets are placed on the boards, closing the space between the wall and the floor with a profiled rail. The skirting boards are joined along the length and at a right angle, at the corners the skirting boards are cut off and connected at an angle of 45 °. Skirting boards are attached to the walls with nails, it is optimal to take nails 75 mm long. Nails are driven in at a distance of 600-700 mm from each other, as well as at the joints. The plinth should be firmly pressed against the wall, partition and floor.
About floor waterproofing
If it is planned to lay any coating on the finishing floor, then to protect it from moisture, they resort to using waterproofing materials. Most often it is an impregnating, painting or gluing waterproofing, which can be used in wet areas of wooden and stone houses.
Floor insulation during renovation
In addition to proper installation, you need to take care of how to insulate the floor in a wooden house. Usually use mineral wool boards. When insulating the floor, it should be remembered that all heat-insulating materials used must meet certain requirements - lightness, excellent heat-insulating properties, ease of installation, safety, high strength and durability.
Thermal insulation materials
Glass wool, mineral basalt wool, expanded polystyrene are suitable for floor insulation in a wooden house. Dozens of companies are engaged in the production of such materials, among which are Rockwool, Izovol, Ursa, Isover, Penoplex, Knauf, etc. We did not describe all the heaters that can be used for thermal insulation of the floor, but only listed the characteristics and estimated cost of some of them . Note that all of them can be used, including for internal insulation of attic walls.
| Floor insulation (company and name) | Type of thermal insulation / application features | Dimensions, mm | Price per cube m. | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Length | Width | Thickness | |||
| Rockwool | |||||
| Light Butts | Basalt fiber board. Unloaded thermal insulation layer | 1000 | 600 | 50 | 1500 |
| 100 | |||||
| Light Butts Scandic | 800 | 600 | 50 | 1350 | |
| 100 | |||||
| Floor Butts I | High Density Basalt Fiber Board for Ground Flooring | 1000 | 600 | 50 | 5600 |
| 100 | |||||
| isorus | |||||
| Light Profit | Insulation for the floor in the form of plates. Material - basalt fiber | 1000 | 600 | 50 | 1200 |
| Light-55 | 1750 | ||||
| Izovol | |||||
| Izobel L-25 | Basalt fiber slabs for laying between joists | 1000 | 600 | 50 | 1250 |
| 100 | |||||
| Isorok | |||||
| Isolight-L | Basalt fiber floor insulation | 1000 | 600 | 50 | 1350 |
| 100 | |||||
| ursa | |||||
| Geo Light | Rolled fiberglass material | 7700 | 1200 | 50 | 1100 |
| Geo M-11 | 10000 | ||||
| Geo M-15 | 8500 | 1250 | |||
| Geo P-15 | Fiberglass slab for laying between joists | 1250 | 600 | 50 | 1300 |
| PureOne 37RN | Fiberglass material, roll | 10000 | 1200 | 50 | 1750 |
| PureOne 34PN | fiberglass board | 1250 | 600 | 50 | 2000 |
| 100 | |||||
| Knauf | |||||
| Thermo Roll 040 | Fiberglass floor insulation | 7000 | 1200 | 50 | 1150 |
| TeploKNAUF Dacha Thermo Roll 044 | 7380 | 1220 | |||
| TeploKNAUF Cottage Thermo Roll 037A | 6150 | 1300 | |||
| TeploKNAUF House + Thermo Stove 040 | fiberglass plate | 1230 | 610 | 100 | 1200 |
| TeploKNAUF Dom Thermo Stove 040 | 50 | ||||
Thermal insulation of the floor based on mineral basalt wool is the best option: wool is not subject to fire, dense and has a low water absorption coefficient. When insulating with glass wool, it is necessary to perform mandatory floor waterproofing, since glass wool is hygroscopic.
Extruded polystyrene foam is best used where there is a need for a minimum layer of insulation.
Among waterproofing materials, you can opt for PVC membranes, roofing material, polyethylene film and isoplast. All of these materials perfectly protect the insulation from moisture penetration.
How to install insulation
Thermal insulation materials are laid in this way. A layer of roofing material is laid on the subfloor. A layer of sand 3-5 cm high is poured onto the roofing material, leveled. A plastic film is placed on top of the sand - the thicker the better. The film is attached to the base of the floor with a construction stapler or small nails. Penoplex - the next layer of the coating, has thermal insulation properties and absorbs sounds well, is environmentally friendly, fits effortlessly and is perfect for roof insulation. On top of the foam layer, a vapor barrier is shot with a stapler (without gaps and overlapped by 10-20 cm) and a layer of chipboard is made. Next comes the finishing floor.
