Let's talk today about this luxurious and majestic flower. This is the real emperor of the spring garden. I saw him for the first time in Anapa and he immediately captivated me with his unusualness and splendor. they looked like miniature trees, strewn with large flowers and so beautiful that it was impossible to take your eyes off them!
And, of course, I immediately decided that they should grow on my summer cottage. Now I’ll tell you in more detail about what I learned about this plant. (or fritillaria) come from the Eastern Himalayas, the mountains of Iran and Afghanistan. They came to Europe (first to Italy) and became known in 1553.
Then, at the beginning of the 18th century, imperial hazel grouse reached Holland. Since 1746, 12 varieties of this plant have become known with white, yellow, red, orange flowers, with double the number of flowers in one inflorescence.
Little has changed since then in their appearance and, therefore, some varieties are of historical value. It’s even hard to believe, but we see the same plants here that the Italians saw four centuries ago. This is incredible!
The color of varietal flowers of the imperial hazel grouse is quite diverse, but still does not go beyond the red-orange-yellow range. Therefore, keep in mind that varieties with blue, black, pink, and purple colors do not exist, and if such varieties are offered to you at flower stands, then such pictures are just a simple photomontage and deception of buyers.
Be careful when buying bulbs! I will describe the varieties of imperial hazel grouse that I planted: - this hazel grouse is the best in terms of hardiness in the most extreme conditions, with creamy yellow, large, bell-shaped, drooping flowers, which are collected 2-7 in a racemose inflorescence and bloom for 14-16 days; - this imperial hazel grouse is the shortest, its height very rarely exceeds 60 cm, with red brick-colored flowers and crimson streaks inside, the petals of which with faint veins reach a size of 6.5 cm by 4 cm; - this hazel grouse blooms from late April to early May a whole month, with huge bell-shaped flowers of golden color with pronounced red stripes both outside and inside the petals; - hazel grouse with beautiful large yellow flowers of 5-8 pieces in an inflorescence, nectarines are surrounded by a white border turning into green and then purple shade; - this hazel grouse has a strong, stable stem and much more flowers than all other varieties; they are large, forming a luxurious crown of bright orange color.
Hazel grouse are mainly propagated by dividing the bulbs, but it is also possible by seeds. Propagation by seeds is not very popular, especially among amateur gardeners, since in this case we will have to wait about 7 years for the first flowering.
The seed propagation method is acceptable only for those who are engaged in industrial breeding of these flowers, because this way you can get quite a lot planting material. At vegetative propagation Large bulbs are divided into two almost every year, while they produce babies much less often and their number is insignificant.
Hazel grouse bulbs must be dug up very carefully and very carefully so as not to damage the bulbs, and most importantly, find the baby, which is small and hard to see in the ground. Grouse bulbs should not be dried out, and it is better to plant them soon after digging and always immediately after purchase.
Imperial hazel grouse, of course, can grow in the garden with the most minimal care and will even grow without it. It will grow, but not bloom. In order for hazel grouse to bloom well, it is necessary to fulfill several, although simple, but of great importance, requirements.
The place for planting this royal flower must be chosen to be warm, semi-shaded and, to be sure, there are no drafts. The soil should be loose and fairly fertile.
If the soil in your area is heavy, then drainage is necessary, since hazel grouse cannot tolerate excessive waterlogging. It is best to use river sand as a leavening agent, as well as humus, which will also good fertilizer(10-15 kg/m2).
We plant the bulbs in early autumn, immediately after new roots appear (if we have our own planting material) or immediately after purchasing the bulbs in the store. The distance between adult bulbs should be at least 25-30 cm, and the depth at which we plant large bulbs is about 20-30 cm, smaller ones - 13-20 cm and children - 6-10 cm. Plantings must be covered for the winter.
Imperial hazel grouse is a fairly frost-resistant plant. Adult bulbs rarely freeze out if all the rules of agricultural technology are followed correctly, but still, in winters with little snow, it is advisable to cover them with straw or spruce branches.
The thickness of the covering layer should be about 25-30 cm, and in early spring You must remember to remove the shelter in a timely manner so that it does not interfere with seedlings. Young shoots of hazel grouse tolerate spring frosts well, even down to minus 6 degrees.
On cold, frosty mornings, the stems of the hazel grouse freeze and bend towards the ground, but as soon as the sun comes out the plant comes to life and straightens up. Thanks to the strong stem, adult plants do not need tying up.
It is necessary to loosen the soil around the hazel grouse very carefully, due to the fact that their roots are often located near the surface of the soil. Therefore, it is better not to loosen unless absolutely necessary.
Imperial hazel grouse love feeding, but not foliar feeding with a concentrated solution, since such feeding can cause burns to the leaves. Complex mineral fertilizers are suitable for fertilizing, which must be applied according to the standard scheme indicated on the package.
It is best to dig up bulbs when the above-ground part of the plant begins to turn yellow and dry out, this is somewhere in the middle - end of June. There is no need to delay harvesting and wait until the stem dries completely.
If we delay this process even for 1-2 weeks, we can destroy the plants. And moreover, the largest bulbs of rare varieties rot first.
Those bulbs that are smaller and grown from babies or seeds are more viable and, although they can tolerate a delay in harvesting, it is also better to dig them up annually. Based on this, it is recommended not to leave hazel grouse in one place for 2-3 years without digging it up.
But still, many gardeners advise not to dig up hazel grouse bulbs every year and allow them to be grown for up to 3 years without digging. I will definitely do this experiment.
We must also remember that during the dormant period (summer months) many bulbous plants are easily affected by diseases and pests. After we have dug up the bulbs, we must carefully inspect them, remove dry films from them, wash them in a warm solution of potassium permanganate, and then dry them.
If rot is discovered during inspection, then it must be carefully scraped off with a dull, clean knife to healthy tissue. Then disinfect the wounds with iodine or brilliant green. After this, dry the treated onion at high temperature.
Rot can appear during storage on healthy bulbs, so be sure to inspect the planting material every week. And when buying, I advise you to carefully inspect the hazel grouse so as not to buy low-quality bulbs.
Before planting, it is best to store imperial hazel grouse bulbs in a warm, dry and preferably ventilated area so that the daytime temperature does not exceed 30-35°C. Since we dug up the bulbs in June, the storage period will be short.
At the end of August, hazel grouse bulbs begin to develop new roots and a sprout next to the old stem. And very large bulbs can form two sprouts at once.
By the time of planting, the bulbs usually grow quite long roots, with which we this moment We don’t have to stand on ceremony. Even if we damage them a little when planting, the remaining part of the root thickens and, most importantly, the root begins to branch. But if you are late with planting, then you need to treat the roots with care and carefully lay them out on the sides when planting, since they no longer have time to recover. Using the tips from this article, it is not so difficult to grow imperial hazel grouse in your garden and in a year you will rejoice in the magnificent and lush flowering these royal fritillaries.
Imperial hazel grouse have one more thing useful quality, however, has not yet been confirmed by scientific research. Due to the specific smell of the bulbs, hazel grouse can be used as a means of repelling moles and mole crickets from our site.
And although there is no scientific basis for these statements yet (or simply has not been found), but personal experience summer residents shows that the mole leaves the summer cottage after planting several bulbs of imperial hazel grouse directly into the mole exits. At the same time, the bulbs of lilies, tulips and other flowers growing nearby are also preserved without damage.
This is my second year of growing imperial hazel grouse, and if this statement is confirmed, I will plant them all over summer cottage, since I have a lot of problems with moles and mole crickets. This solution to the problem would suit me very much, firstly - magnificently blooming hazel grouse decorating garden plot, secondly - the absence of pests)))) See you soon, dear friends!
Hazel grouse - extraordinary beauty on the site
Fritillary flower (royal crown, fritillaria) - lily family. An early spring bulbous plant that overwinters in the ground.
The flowers of the hazel grouse are large, orange-red, drooping, in the form of an upturned tulip; the bulbs are large, yellowish-white in color, and have a specific smell. Hazel grouse blooms in mid-April, but its shoots, rich in green foliage, appear earlier than other plants, and in themselves serve as a decoration for the flower garden.
In July, after flowering, the foliage disappears. On the eve of complete drying of the foliage of the bulb dig up and store in the sand for about a month, and then planted. A hazel grouse can grow in one place for 3-4 years.
Soil for hazel grouse requires processing to a depth of 30-40 cm. The best fertilizer - a mixture of humus and peat, 1/3 peat.
You can also apply mineral fertilizers - flower mixture, urea, superphosphate in the norms usual for all flower crops (30-40 grams per square meter). Large hazel grouse bulbs are planted at a depth of 20 centimeters, small ones - 10 centimeters, in August or spring.
The plant does not require watering. Care consists of weeding and loosening. In the process hazel grouse breeding At the base of the bulbs, children appear and are planted.
The bulb itself divides, forming new ones, usually 2-3. The most common are 3 types: Imperial hazel grouse- height up to 80 centimeters, with a strong stem and dark green leaves. Its inflorescence is umbellate, with orange flowers covered with red-brown veins and white anthers.
Checkered hazel grouse- height up to 40 centimeters. The leaves of the plant are linear-lanceolate, green, the flowers are solitary (less often 2 are found), drooping, with a clear checkerboard pattern (purple with whitish). Russian hazel grouse- height up to 50 centimeters, flowers are dark red, with a brown tint, collected in a loose cluster of 2-5 pieces. There are other varieties of other colors: Eldorado - lemon yellow, Gloria Solis - yellow, Pimpernel - crimson, White Swan - pure white, Safire - lilac-blue, with a white neck. Subscribe to new articles - enter your e-mail
How many different flowers have come to us from distant, once mysterious countries. We have long considered many of them ours: roses, irises, tulips or peonies... However, the hazel grouse, also known as the imperial hazel grouse, fritillaria or the royal crown - special flower genus Fritillary, Liliaceae family.
A very popular plant in dachas; almost everyone grows orange “inverted lilies”. So, cultivation of imperial hazel grouse . I really love perennial flowers that you can plant and forget about.
Some gardeners dig up their tulips every year and replant them so that the flowers are large. I don’t do that, if I don’t forget, then I’ll replant some of it every 3-4 years). The imperial hazel grouse is a very unpretentious perennial flower.
It, like daffodils, is not liked by shrews, who look for delicacies for themselves in the spring. The smell coming from them is not to their taste. But on the contrary, they simply adore tulips. I bought the first two bushes of imperial hazel grouse at the market, sold by an old woman at a very affordable price.
These were the most common orange colors, already in bloom. I immediately planted them in the ground and trimmed them. The following year, the royal crown has already bloomed. But, as a rule, it is difficult to buy imperial hazel grouse that would bloom next spring along with daffodils and tulips.
Usually sold in stores Dutch varieties, very beautiful, but small-sized onions - children that you can wait 2 or even 3 years to bloom. Feel free to plant your purchased children in the fall at the end of September or beginning of October, you can plant them in the spring. In general, growing imperial hazel grouse is essentially no different from other bulbous plants (daffodils, tulips, crocuses).
The main thing is that the planting material grows in a dry place, otherwise it will rot. The imperial hazel grouse blooms with yellow, orange, crimson, red and even “checkered” flowers. Planting bulbs I planted mine at a depth of 4 - 5 times the diameter of the bulb, in loose soil, at a distance of about 20 cm from each other.
The planting of the imperial hazel grouse bulbs is deep enough, all so that the flower can hold the peduncle in the correct vertical position. In order to have resistance against the wind. The place for planting the imperial hazel grouse must be chosen sunny, high, so that groundwater does not accumulate in the soil and the bulbs do not rot.
You can artificially raise the flowerbed, add a little river sand or soil. Be sure to mark the planting site for the imperial hazel grouse. So that over time the small bulbs develop well, grow, and finally bloom, I plant them in clean compost.
In the first year, low green panicles will grow from the planted bulbs in the flowerbed, which, together with the stems of the tulips, will dry in due time. Good nutrition for the imperial hazel grouse is simply necessary, because the flower will have to grow from a meter to one and a half meters, depending on the variety. After flowering After cutting off the wilted stems, loosen the soil and again add clean compost to the hazel grouse flowerbed.
If the weather is dry and hot, do not forget to water moderately, and loosen the soil again. After flowering and shedding of the petals, I always remove the seed pods on the imperial hazel grouse - they take too much energy from the plant. Only, of course, if you are not the most patient person in the world or a breeder - then carefully collect the seeds and sow immediately after collecting before winter. In 7 - 10 years, you will grow a royal crown from seeds. Of course, propagation by bulbs is much easier, but the imperial hazel grouse is modest here too.
She does not give children willingly, or rather rarely. Therefore, if you want a lot of the royal crown, then you will have to buy all the planting material. And God forbid I ruin it, I’ll have to buy it again. I never cease to be amazed by the imperial hazel grouse in the spring.
The flower is very bright, tall, and even reminds me of a bird. I personally do not dig up the bulbs for a month after flowering, as many recommend. The imperial hazel grouse blooms well in the spring and so on. The only thing is, after the stem has dried up, if it doesn’t fall off on its own, I cut it off near the ground so that the bulbs can rest in the winter.
general description
Fritillary is a bulbous flowering perennial belonging to the lily family. Along with other representatives of hazel grouse, this particular variety (imperial) is of particular value due to its large drooping flowers that resemble bells.
The hazel grouse flowers are located on tall stems, reaching 1.5 meters in height. The hazel grouse, which begins its growth with the arrival of spring, is one of the first to bloom. That is why it is often used to plant it in rocky gardens, rock gardens and alpine slides.
Selection of planting material
In order for planting to give the desired results, preparation for it should be carried out in advance. In particular, planting material in the form of bulbs must be prepared from the beginning of summer.
It is also worth inspecting the bulbs, from which, in principle, plant care begins. The hazel grouse bulb is a slightly flattened ball with through hole(look at the photo below) and can weigh from 500 grams. up to 1 kg. High-quality planting material must be an absolutely healthy bulb.
In other words, external signs There should be no diseases (rot, mold, cracks, softness in some areas, etc.). But the presence of roots is allowed. The remnant of the shoot from last year located in the center (as a rule, it is already dried) does not need to be removed.
The variety of varieties of royal plants and flower colors will allow you to choose exactly what you need. However, when buying bulbs you should be careful, since some colors of the variety simply do not exist.
Therefore, if the photo accompanying the bulb shows a blue, black, purple or pink imperial grouse, most likely these are false pictures. The range of the plant is mainly limited to red-yellow-orange shades.
How and when to plant flowers
Planting imperial hazel grouse begins with selecting a place for growing it in the future. In this case, it is worth taking into account what method the plant will be planted. This condition will also affect the care of the flower as it grows and develops. There are only two ways in which planting can be done:
- Seed, the most optimal for growing on an industrial scale, in which you can get a lot of planting material (young bulbs). However, this method is not relevant among gardeners, since flowering with such plantings occurs after 7 years; Vegetative, which involves planting bulbs and children. An adult root can be divided in half once a year to reproduce. Children appear on bulbs much less often - they small sizes, but quite viable.
Planting dates
If you are already the happy owner of fritillaria (imperial hazel grouse), then in this case planting should begin with digging up the bulbs of faded plants. The period when the flower trunk gradually dries out and begins to noticeably bend toward the ground usually occurs from mid to late June.
The right time to extract the bulbs comes after another 1-1.5 weeks. It is important to dig up future planting material in time so that the roots do not begin to rot. With such planting, there is no need to stratify the bulbs; you can immediately transplant them into new holes. When purchasing planting material, the bulbs should be purchased by the end of August and immediately planted in open ground. Planting of purchased bulbs can be carried out in early September, but this is already deadlines for planting the imperial flower.
How to plant a bulb correctly
In order for the planting process to be successful, and as a result a beautiful “palm-shaped” plant with large bells has grown, preparation must be done in advance. For example, the hole itself is prepared approximately 2 weeks before the planned planting date.
The hole should be 30 cm deep. Width optimal size holes - 40x40 cm. Between the holes (in case of group planting) it is necessary to leave about 25-30 cm to ensure full development of the bulb and comfortable soil care.
The holes remain in this form for another 2 weeks. After 14 days, you need to pour a small amount of sand into the hole in the form of a mound, and in the center of the hole you need to stick a peg so that there is still 50 cm above the ground level. You can see how it should look like in photo.Then, the hazel grouse bulbs should be laid out on the sand near the stuck peg and you can cover them with earth.
It would be appropriate to note that it is advisable to fertilize the soil dug out of the hole beforehand. To do this, you can use a small amount of compost or horn shavings.
How to care for planted bulbs
Caring for planted imperial hazel grouse bulbs can take quite a lot of time, however, it all depends on the correct planting and climatic conditions. For example, the area where the royal flower is planted will need to be watered if autumn turns out to be rainy.
However, to prevent the cold from harming the young roots of plants, it is worth taking care of shelter for planting. Therefore, in winter you can cover the area with spruce branches, leaves, or other material.
How to care for seedlings
Care should begin from the first spring emergence of young hazel grouse. You should start by removing the material that covered the area in winter. This should be done extremely carefully so as not to damage the fragile sprouts.
It is necessary to free the seedlings because for active and good growth they need sunlight. Young shoots are no longer afraid of the last frost (up to -5). When removing the winter layer of shelter, there is no need to disturb the soil itself, avoiding damage to the root system, since, despite the deep planting of the bulbs, their roots can rise significantly to the surface over the winter. When The threat of frost has passed and spring weather has stabilized, the first fertilizing can be carried out. For hazel grouse this is a solution:
- 10 liters of humus; 1 tbsp. spoon of nitrophosphate; 1 tbsp. spoon complex fertilizer for flowering plants.
The mixture of this solution should be distributed over the entire surface of the soil of the area where the royal flowers will grow, in a layer not exceeding 3 cm. The next feeding should be carried out at the beginning of the flowering stage.
For this procedure, you can use potassium fertilizers. In addition, it will not hurt to apply universal fertilizer in the form wood ash, scattering it in a small layer.
Caring for the soil, in order to avoid it drying out, involves additionally covering it with a layer of peat or humus. Final fertilizing, which is included in the care of the plant after the completion of its flowering stage, will ensure the formation of healthy planting material for planting next year. For this feeding, it is customary to use potassium sulfate and superphosphate. When feeding in accordance with necessary for the plant within a short period of time, you can get a very beautiful ornamental plant.
But there are times when the right conditions and feeding, the hazel grouse does not bloom. You can find out what to do in such cases by watching the video.
Imperial hazel grouse, which is an exotic crop (as can be seen from the photo illustrating mature plant), the flower is not very capricious. But still, only if you follow the mandatory rules, which include planting and care, will the “palm-shaped” hazel grouse delight you with a lush and healthy color. Initially, you should take care of the place where the flower “resides”.
In this case, it is necessary to take into account the fact that the imperial hazel grouse loves light and has a negative attitude towards drafts. Therefore, the place on the site should be well lit by the sun, but at the same time slightly shaded.
There should be no drafts in this place, as well as northern winds, so as not to harm the plant. Regarding the soil, it should be loose and fertile soil. With good drainage, in which plant care would be facilitated by natural water drainage and saturation of the bulbs with oxygen. If the soil on the site is heavy and has a dense composition, then adding coarse river sand can dilute it.
It is not recommended to loosen the soil, as there is a possibility of damage to the roots of the flower. But the imperial hazel grouse responds very well to mulching. Such care requires constant soil moisture, as well as good aeration.
This royal plant looks very beautiful in group plantings. This flower goes well with tulips, late-blooming daffodils, and also heiranthus. If you become interested in the plant, you can find videos and diagrams of its use in landscape design on the Internet.
rare and extraordinary beauty. In early spring, it pleases the eye with lush greenery, which is very quickly crowned with flowers of the royal hazel grouse. Found in the wild in Asia and North America.
Grows well in areas with hot summers and cold winters. During winter thaws it can germinate and be damaged by spring frosts. Tolerates light short-term frosts in spring. But if they are repeated frequently, the plant may freeze and not bloom this year.
Royal crown flower perennial, tolerates winter well. The most famous form among gardeners has a large bulb, a long peduncle up to 80-100 cm and tulip-shaped flowers in the form of a drooping umbrella of 6-8 pieces (there are rare ones with 1 flower). That's why it got its name - the royal crown (photo).
Royal crown flower Common (on par with tulips and daffodils), its form with dark orange flowers is best known. Little-known varieties are diverse. They can be up to 20 cm in height. Frittilaria can have flowers of more red, yellow, white, dark purple colors, and also a very interesting low-growing species with cherry flowers and spots located in a checkerboard pattern.
Blooms in late April early May. The plant is moisture-loving and loves well-fertilized soils. Flowers royal crown can grow in sun and partial shade. It is advisable to cover it with leaves for the winter. Dies in places where water stagnates. The bulbs have bad smell, so they are not damaged by mice. Because flowers royal crown grow in one place for a long time, it is necessary to feed it in the spring with a solution of droppings, manure or complex mineral fertilizers.
Replant when the plant begins to grow too thick. The bulbs are dug up after the greenery has withered and stored until the end of summer. When planting at the end of August, place the bulbs at a depth of 3 times the height. Place a layer of sand or fine gravel at the bottom for drainage (to avoid stagnation of water). Place with a slight slope so that water does not stagnate in the recess at the top of the bulb. During storage, the bulbs can dry out, so after digging them up, I plant them immediately, just mark the location. They always took root well and had no problems with wintering. The distance between plants is up to 50 cm. I usually use it for single planting.
The royal crown flowers, those orange giants that are familiar to us, and the chess fritillaria are very different from each other. I had such a flower. Yes, the view is unusual, but it needs to be planted in a visible place. Because it is not bright and low. On thin peduncles there is a flower the size of egg. Of course, the checkerboard spots are impressive. Unfortunately, he disappeared during a flood. Such low-growing varieties look great near ponds and on lawns. Requires regular watering.
In combination with other plants, the royal crown flowers will give you a great mood and will delight the eye with their colors.
There is, perhaps, no magazine or catalog in which the imperial hazel grouse, or the royal crown, would not be mentioned. No wonder, this plant has long been widely known; it has been grown in Europe since the 16th century. Nevertheless, many have problems with it - it often does not bloom.
Hazel grouse-crownThere is, perhaps, no magazine or catalog in which the imperial hazel grouse, or the royal crown, would not be mentioned. No wonder, this plant has long been widely known; it has been grown in Europe since the 16th century. Nevertheless, many have problems with it - it often does not bloom. But it is not the hazel grouse that is to blame for this, but the owners of the site - they do not know the biology of the plant and do not take into account its cultivation characteristics.
So let's start with biology. This is a plant from the lily family (Liliacea), the genus Fritillaria, or Fritillaria, section Petilium. The range of the imperial hazel grouse (F. imperialis) is a vast territory: from Asia Minor, through Turkey, Iran, Afghanistan and Central Asia to the Himalayas. This plant is rare everywhere and is protected by law. In nature, the imperial hazel grouse is represented by a number of forms, differing in their appearance and color of flowers. IN Central Asia There is also a very close species growing - Edward's hazel grouse (F. eduardii), but among botanists there is still no consensus on the independence of this species.
The “Royal Crown” naturally lives in the foothills and mountains, in places where it is quite humid in the spring and extremely dry and hot in the summer. Therefore, he is in a hurry to quickly vegetate. Its sprouts appear from the ground in the spring, as soon as the snow melts, and already in early May (in conditions middle zone) this hazel grouse reaches a size of 100-120 cm and blooms. And by the beginning of June, the above-ground part dries out and the bulb goes into retirement. But at the end of summer, the bulb (even during storage, which, by the way, serves as a signal for planting it in the ground) begins to grow roots and a shoot forms for the next year, then the bulb again “falls asleep” for the winter.
It must be said that the bulbs of the imperial hazel grouse are very large.(and the Eduard's hazel grouse is even larger, weighing up to 1 kg), slightly yellowish, consisting of 2-4 fused scales, with a specific odor. The bulb of hazel grouse, like that of tulips and colchicums, is annual and is renewed annually. In varietal hazel grouse, the adult bulb is divided into two or three almost every year; natural specimens reproduce by division very rarely.
For successful cultivation At the end of the growing season, hazel grouse are dug up and stored in the house in a dry and warm (preferably up to 300) place, in a paper bag or in wooden boxes, sprinkled with sawdust (rather to prevent them from hitting each other, since the bulbs of this hazel grouse are not prone to drying out). At this time, flower buds are laid for the next year. If you do not dig up the hazel grouse, then after a cold and rainy summer the plant simply will not bloom, or even rot and die.
It is very important to plant the plants correctly. The planting site should be warm and sunny, with well-drained soil. The imperial hazel grouse responds well to the addition of ash or lime to the soil when planting. Sand must be mixed into heavy soil and humus or peat must be added to any soil. On heavy floating uncultivated or poorly cultivated clays or when high level groundwater and in the shade the plant quickly dies.
The planting depth (counted from the bottom) is usually 2-2.5 times the diameter of the bulb, for adult plants it is 20-25 cm. A layer of clean sand is poured into the bottom of the hole, the bulb is placed and covered with earth. There is an opinion that bulbs should be planted sideways, but this is completely wrong. And it is not clear on what this opinion is based. Hazel grouse, like all normal bulbous plants, should be planted bottom down. Planting is carried out at the end of August - September, when the roots of the bulbs begin to grow.
When purchasing bulbs, pay attention to the fact that they are not lethargic or rotten, and there should be no sprouted roots. And further important point. Until now, at markets and exhibitions, imperial hazel grouse are often sold in supposedly all kinds of colors - white, blue, dark blue, purple, black, etc. But 
The fact is that such things do not happen! There is usually the same picture next to the bags of bulbs. Take a closer look and you will realize that it is just painted using a computer in different colors. And in May they often sell dug up flowering plants, but it’s not worth buying them either. Even if such a hazel grouse does not die, it will have to be grown for several years until the next flowering.
Hazel grouse is a fairly winter-hardy plant, withstands severe frosts without shelter. The seedlings tolerate spring frosts well.
Hazel grouse are quite resistant to diseases. Viral diseases from which lilies and tulips suffer so much have not been noted. True, in the raw and cold weather Grouse bulbs may rot. But don't despair, they can be saved. It is enough to use a sharp knife to cut out the rotten part to healthy tissue, sprinkle with ash, crushed coal, ground sulfur, or disinfect with alcohol, brilliant green and dry.
Of the hazel grouse pests, it is worth noting first of all lily leaf beetle. This is a small red beetle that eats leaves and buds; its larvae, covered with dark brown mucus, feed on the leaves. Measures to combat this pest are to collect it by hand and treat the plants with systemic insecticides (for example, Confidor). They seriously spoil the life of a hazel grouse snails and slugs, which can completely eat up plants (including the bulb in the soil). The bulbs can also be damaged by the larva of the click beetle - wireworm. But so ordinary garden pests, like aphids, caterpillars and the like do not attack hazel grouse.
About two dozen varieties of imperial hazel grouse are known. Of those that can be found on sale and in collections, I will name:
variety Aurora- with orange flowers, the most common height for the “imperial crown” - 0.8-1 m;
Prolifera variety- it is similar to the previous one, but its flowers are arranged in two tiers.
Pure yellow ones are on sale Lutea varieties And Maxima Lutea
In varieties Rubra And Rubra Maxima the color of the flowers is brick-red, but if the first one is relatively low, up to 70 cm, then Rubra Maxima reaches a height of 1.5 m.
Variety Orange Brilliant interesting beige flowers, it is 80 cm high.
U Sulpherino varieties the flowers are orange with a yellow border.
Variety Ruduke distinguished by the brownish-yellow color of the flowers.
But, perhaps, the most spectacular are variegated varieties. Argenteovariegata- with pure white edges of leaves and Aureomarginata- with yellowish leaf margins and red-orange flowers. And although both of these varieties have been known for 300 years, they are still very rare even among collectors, since, to top it all off, they are also the most capricious. They also have smaller bulbs, less viable and, unfortunately, less winter-hardy, so after harsh winters with little snow, hazel grouse of these varieties often fall out.
Bells, inverted lilies, the royal crown - why aren’t they blooming? Read in today's article about the reasons why large hazel grouse do not bloom? When will it bloom? How to make hazel grouse bloom?
Imperial hazel grouse or, as they are also called, the royal crown, are truly luxurious flowers that attract attention in the garden. They form powerful leaves and inverted inflorescences heads down . If the gardener still fails to enjoy the exquisite flowers, it means that something went wrong during planting.
Why does the royal crown not bloom?
- the bulb has not matured;
- superficially placed;
- early;
- over-watered;
- fed;
Grouse bulbs: planting features and flowering dates
The flowering royal crown has massive bulbs. Until 10 cm are formed underground parts, hazel grouse will not bloom. Wait for the plant to grow a sufficient volume of the bulb, become stronger and begin to produce flower stalks.
Flowering season: April to May. If the leaves of the hazel grouse are strong and everything indicates that the bulb is of sufficient size, then wait for the flowering season and continue to care for the royal crown until maturity, helping to gain mass.
Conditions for the flowering of the royal crown:
- air temperature +24-25° C;
- well-lit place;
- warm, dry;
- the soil is not flooded or fertilized;
In heavy soils, waterlogged soils and improper planting the royal crown does not support its name with a presentable appearance. The bulbs need to be deepened from 20 to 30 cm into the ground. If you place upside down bells close to the surface of the ground, they will lose nutrients or freeze. Planting thickening – placement of hazel grouse bulbs closer than 25 cm apart, - also interferes with flowering. You may not calculate when the bulb will grow and plant it too closely, causing half to dry out or die from a lack of components.
Diseases and pests on hazel grouse
A problem like rot, develops with abundant watering, in dense soil or an excess of fertilizers in combination with bad weather (heavy rainfall, frost, cloudy weather, snow, etc.). It is possible that the onion of the royal crown was originally rotten, for example, if stored in a humid microclimate.
How to remove rot: cut off the rotten area and sprinkle with fungicide. Be sure to dry the bulb and plant it.
Pests on the royal crown:
- Lily beetle;
- bulbous rattle;
It is unsuitable for the royal crown to be affected by pests, but this also happens. Small bugs appear in the soil at the planting site, gnawing through the bulbs, multiplying, laying larvae and feeding on the same hazel grouse. Lily beetle settles on the lower leaves on the back side - it is a red bug. Rattle also red and chews leaves.
How to treat pests: contact insecticides with a suction effect. It is necessary to cut off diseased leaves or manually remove beetles. Treat with insecticides until improvements are noticeable. Introduce restorative care according to the proposed principles. Give the plant a rest and do not drive out the royal crown in the first weeks after treatment.
↓ Write in the comments why the royal crown may not yet bloom? How did you restore the plant?
The well-known hazel grouse is not only the name of a small bird of variegated color, it is also the name of a representative of the flora, the scientific name of which is translated from Latin as Fritillaria. There is an assumption that this interpretation comes from the Latin name for the glass for throwing dice “fritillus”, since the corollas of the flower are very similar to it, and from the point of view of the Russian language everything is much simpler - hazel grouse means “pockmarked” or “variegated”, which is very accurately describes color scheme plants. The hazel grouse is also often called the “royal crown”, perhaps because the combination of colors really resembles appearance inverted crown. The hazel grouse flower is one of the representatives of the genus of herbaceous perennials, a member of the Liliaceae family. More than a hundred of its relatives – species representatives – have been discovered in natural conditions. The most common plants are in the latitudes of the Northern part of the earth's hemisphere; they are indigenous inhabitants of the eastern and western parts of Asian countries.
Royal flower hazel grouse Description
Very often you can hear that flowers are called “ trees of paradise“Perhaps this is because in appearance they resemble a small palm tree with flowers on top. The above-ground part of the plant is presented in the form of a large stem with many narrow-linear or oblong-lanceolate leaves. The arrangement of leaflets can be either scattered or whorled. The base of each leaf has a round or semicircular nectary. Fritillary flowers are solitary and can be collected in an umbrella or panicle. Outwardly, they are very reminiscent of drooping tulips or.
The outer part of the flower can be very different color shades: for example, yellow, lilac, white or red flowers.
The underground part of the plant is presented in the form of bulbs with fleshy scales, capable of annual renewal. The bulbs do not have integumentary scales, and therefore the attitude towards them should be as careful as possible. The plant is usually classified as an ephemeroid. The result of the ripening hazel grouse is a small box containing many seeds.
Species representatives
Hazel grouse have a rather complex classification. If we briefly try to describe it, then first we need to mention that it consists of six sections, including various varieties and types.
Section 1 (lat. Eufritillaria)
It consists of four groups, including species whose birthplace is considered to be the Mediterranean countries, the western part of the Asian continent, and European countries. Most well-known representative This group is the checkered hazel grouse. It can grow up to forty centimeters, has single drooping flowers, purple-brown in color with a checkerboard pattern, which is where the name comes from. In the process of cultivation and care, it is not capricious, it can boast of the presence of many forms that live mainly in front gardens, and varieties, such as: Alba, Aphrodite - bearers of white-flowered forms, Artemis - the owner of purple-green flowers, Jupiter - the owner of the largest perianths, dark red hue. Also included in the examples of this group category are the hazel grouse called Mikhailovsky, the Caucasian hazel grouse, the hazel grouse called needle-petaled grouse, the checkerboard grouse, the yellow hazel grouse, the mountain hazel grouse, and so on.
Checkered hazel grouse (section 1) Section 2 (lat. Petilium)
This section consists of the largest species representatives, distributed in the Himalayas, Turkey, the North-Eastern part of Iraq and Turkmenistan. The most famous member of this group is considered to be the royal hazel grouse, or its current name, imperial hazel grouse. He is a Turkish resident, which is where it originates. Today there are approximately twenty species forms royal flower. For this hazel grouse characteristic features are the unpleasant smell of the bulbs, the relatively high stem - up to one meter long, the presence of broadly lanceolate whorled leaves and drooping bell-like flowers. The flowers themselves reach a size of six centimeters, the dominant one is Orange color. Well-known varieties are Aurora (short with orange-red flowers), Lutea and Lutea maxima (fairly tall representatives from one meter to one and a half, bright yellow flowers), Sulferino - a traditionally shaped hazel grouse, the owner of orange flowers with a red mesh. This group can also include Eduard's hazel grouse and Radde's hazel grouse.
Royal or imperial hazel grouse (section 2) Section 3 (lat. Theresia)
It includes only one species - the Persian hazel grouse, which is an inhabitant of the Western side of Asia.
Persian hazel grouse (section 3) Section 4 (lat. Rhinopetalum)
Inhabitants of the Chinese side and Afghanistan. The most common of them are Kamchatka hazel grouse, hazel grouse two-flowered and called related.
Kamchatka hazel grouse (section 4) Section 5 (lat. Korolkowia)
It includes only one species representative called Severtsov's hazel grouse, its habitat is limited only to the region of Central Asia.
Ryabchik Severtsova (section 5) Section 6 (lat. Liliophiza)
This section includes species originating from the countries of the North American continent. For example, one of them is the gray hazel grouse. Relatively low-growing species, with long flowers yellow color on the outside, and speckled on the inside.
Gray hazel grouse (section 6) Growing a royal flower in garden conditions
The most striking and popular garden crop is considered to be the imperial, or royal, or royal crown hazel grouse. The process of growing this species in our area dates back to the 16th century. Flowering begins in early spring, after the last snow has melted. After the winter period, plants with bright flowers attract attention and are pleasing to the eye. The royal flower harmonizes quite well with other spring flowers. Its bulb produces two peduncles, forming new bulbs.
Imperial hazel grouse prefers to grow in light, fertile and moderately moist soil with good drainage. The flower is an amateur sunlight, however, it grows well in semi-dark areas.
Planting a hazel grouse flower
At the end of the growing period, the flower bulbs must be dug out of the ground and subsequently stored in a dry room with good circulation of fresh air until the root shoots appear from them. They are a characteristic indicator of the optimal time for planting. Most often this happens at the end of summer.
The “royal crown” bulbs do not have integumentary scales for protection and therefore there is a danger of them drying out. Because of this, you shouldn't buy them. late autumn, because there is a high probability that they are overdried and will not grow.
Therefore, if it was not possible to plant at the appointed time, then you can place the onion in a container with moistened peat and leave it in the refrigerator in the vegetable compartment. The latest time for planting is considered to be the end of September; it is not worth planting later, as there will be no flowering. It is recommended to wash the flower bulbs in a manganese solution before planting, and then lightly roll them in crushed charcoal.
In order to plant hazel grouse, it is important to first prepare the proposed plot of land. To begin with, it is important to dig it well, adding a small amount of sand, peat and humus to the soil; it is better to do this regardless of the quality of the soil. The depth of the hole for planting should be approximately thirty centimeters; a small layer of sand or wet peat is poured onto the bottom. After which the onion is placed in this composition, positioning it so that the bottom looks down, while it is important to carefully straighten the root shoots, and then sprinkle with earth.
Although the plant bears such a lofty name as “royal crown”, nevertheless it is not at all capricious and not demanding in terms of care. This provides an excellent opportunity for even inexperienced amateur florists to have it. However, this does not entirely apply to the imperial representative. To grow this beauty, you still have to spend some time and effort.
The most important thing to remember is that hazel grouse, like any other plant, needs watering, especially in the hot summer; you should not allow the soil to dry out too much. Even after the end of the flowering period, watering is still necessary, since the bulbs located in the ground do not tolerate dry soil. Do not forget about the necessary fertilizing, which must be done in the second half of April and after flowering itself. A good option may be dry fertilizers.
The royal flower needs regular weeding, which is best done every time after the soil is moistened. It is not recommended to loosen the soil to avoid damage to the rhizome, therefore experienced flower growers in this case just mulch land plot peat layer or a small amount of humus. It is recommended to do this immediately after landing.
Caring for imperial hazel grouse (video)
Reproduction of hazel grouse (video)
The most reliable method of propagation is considered to be natural division of the bulb. Although this process is very long, the probability of full flowering is very high. As usual, the bulb of the imperial hazel grouse produces only two daughter children; in turn, a child transplanted separately continues the ripening process for a certain number of years, which leads to the flowering process being delayed.
In this case, there is a way to speed up the appearance of the baby. Its essence is to make shallow scrapings of two centimeters in size in a sufficiently large and fleshy onion and allow them to dry. After which the onion with cuts is placed in a sandy substrate and left in a room with good ventilation. You can plant the plant after the bulb produces new root formations.
As for the implementation of the reproductive process using seeds, this is the prerogative of professional flower growers. Only they can carry out this procedure.
Grouse after flowering
Upon completion of the flowering process, which occurs in mid-summer, the flowers lose their decorative visual appeal. After the visible part of the flower begins to turn yellow, you should start digging out the bulbs. However, this should be done immediately so that flower pests do not do it first. Then the bulbs should be cleaned of dried scales, washed in warm water and soak in manganese solution for 30 minutes. Next, carefully check and remove any damage, treat with a fungicide and leave in a room with good access to fresh air to dry.
