Installation of floors in a wooden bath. We install a concrete floor in a bathhouse with our own hands. Fiber fiber prices

If the territory suburban area allows you to build a bathhouse - there is no doubt about it. It’s worth, perhaps, even postponing other plans, but finding the strength and means to build this structure. In order for it to last a long time and be as comfortable as possible, you will need reliable warm walls, a well-thought-out water supply and drainage system, appropriate heating equipment (stove or boiler), and a concrete floor in the bathhouse.

For the owner country house Having your own bathhouse at your disposal is by no means some kind of unnecessary whim, but a completely reasonable approach. The bathhouse has always been considered not only and not so much as a place for taking hygienic water procedures. A visit to her is always a source of vivacity for the coming days, a burst of vital activity, and getting rid of accumulated negativity both physiologically and psychologically. And how many pleasant minutes do “get-togethers” with friends or girlfriends give in a warm dressing room for a discussion? latest news or rumors, or watching a football match! But in order for the bathhouse to really turn into a kind of “club of interests” or “therapeutic and preventive center”, a lot of work will have to be put in. And installing reliable and comfortable floors is one of the main conditions for success.

If we consider in detail the question of what floors are generally possible in a bathhouse, then all options can be divided into three large groups:

• Clay - used since ancient times. The dense compacted layer of clay served as an excellent water seal, which organized the flow outside the bathhouse. In order to by The llamas could move freely; a wooden flooring was used, which was taken outside for ventilation and drying after each use. (similar wooden floorings are actively used now, with almost any type of flooring in the bathhouse).

Nowadays, when it is possible to use more advanced materials for flooring, clay flooring is no longer used by almost anyone.

• Wooden floors. It would seem that everyone is good for a bath, especially if you use wood of those species that are not afraid of prolonged contact with water (for example, larch). Such floors are quite easy to install, quite warm, and it is not difficult to organize a water drainage system in them. But wood and water remain “antagonists” in any case.

Any wood is always a breeding ground for many microorganisms, insects and rodents. This is combated by impregnating wood with special compounds, but in this case the environmental friendliness of the material is reduced. It is never possible to completely get rid of water absorption by wood, and dampness is the first step to the emergence of putrefactive processes leading to decomposition of the material. Even if a particular type of tree is quite resistant to this, there is still no escape from its absorption of odors, which become very persistent and unpleasant over time.

• Concrete floors - perhaps this the most optimal option. There is no need to talk about durability compared to others. At proper preparation base and high-quality filling, they will last a very long time - the period is comparable to the duration of operation of all other elements of the bath structure, and may even exceed it.

There may be objections - they say that the concrete floor is too cold. And what prevents you from giving it reliable thermal insulation in this case - there are a lot of options for its design. In addition, a heating system can be installed in the thickness of the concrete floor, which is turned on as needed.

The concrete floor is also distinguished by its high versatility - if you do not want to leave a bare surface, you can lay on top of it any type of covering suitable for the conditions of the bathhouse - tiles or porcelain stoneware, stationary or easily removable wooden flooring, which is easy to take out from time to time for preventive drying.

So, everything speaks in favor of a concrete floor. You can move on to considering options for its arrangement. It can be laid directly on the ground, or raised above ground level, with a ventilated subfloor.

To begin with, consider a water drainage system

The main feature of a concrete floor in a bathhouse is the need for drainage large quantity water. This, firstly, involves ensuring the required slope, and secondly, a well-thought-out drainage system.

• The simplest solution, which, however, is applicable only on light sandy soils with high absorbency, is an absorption pit. It can be dug directly under washing room baths - there the water will be collected in one pipe and discharged downwards. The pit itself is about 500 ÷ 1000 mm deep, and with approximately the same side dimensions. The resulting volume is filled with large crushed stone, debris broken bricks, sand, etc. – so that the filler does not interfere with the free passage of liquid. To prevent the pit from becoming a source of unpleasant stagnant odors, it is imperative to provide a ventilation system for it, leaving vents (vents) in the base with the possibility of through air flow.

• A more reasonable option seems to be to move such a pit beyond the foundation, and in dense or clayey soils this will be the only possible solution. In this case, only a pit is installed under the drain, from where the water will be drained through a pipe system into an absorption pit or drain. If the site is equipped with a sewerage system with water purification in a septic tank, then it is best to install the bath water drain there. The only thing that needs to be done is to organize a water seal so that odors do not penetrate into the bathhouse.

A small hole is also dug for the waste pit, so that after cementing the walls and bottom, its dimensions on all three sides are about 300500 mm. A pipe is built into one of the walls to drain water by gravity into drainage system. The pit itself can be covered with a metal grill. Do not forget about the possibility of its ventilation - leaving air vents in the base is necessary.

• The listed methods are used when the floor is raised above the ground. If the concrete floor of the bathhouse will be poured directly onto the ground, then you need to think through the drainage system in advance so that the pipes installed in the right place are immediately embedded in the screed. There is no need for a pit then - water will be drained directly from the washing room directly into the drainage system. This method is universal; it can also be applied to a pile construction of a bathhouse.

Installation of a concrete floor in a bathhouse on the ground

This method is used when the entire structure of the bathhouse is supposed to be placed on a continuous strip foundation. The work is carried out in several stages.

After installing the strip foundation, you can proceed to work on the concrete floor of the bathhouse

• To begin with, in the space between the finished foundation, it is removed upper layer soil to a depth of about 400 ÷ 500 mm.
• A preliminary backfill is made with gravel up to 150 mm thick, which is compacted with maximum care. It is advisable at this stage to begin planning the slope of the surface towards the drainage hole in the future floor, in order to greatly simplify your task later.

Further actions depend on how many layers of concrete screed you plan to lay. This way you can fill one screed, or make a “layer cake”, where there are two layers concrete surface will be separated by a layer of insulation.

• In the first case, a sand layer with a thickness of 300 to 500 mm is laid on the gravel backfill, which will also require careful compaction.
• The next stage is the installation of a waterproofing layer on top of the sand cushion. For this purpose they use roll material- roofing material, which is laid in one or two layers, with a mandatory overlap of each sheet by 100 mm and additional coating of joints and approaches to the walls of the plinth bitumen mastic. If roofing felt is laid in two layers, then the second should be perpendicular to the first.

Fully covered layer of waterproofing - with a slight “approach” to the walls

• To prevent the floors in the bathhouse from being cold, the next step will be laying thermal insulation material. For this purpose, ordinary slag from the boiler room can be used - sometimes this is the cheapest option. Expanded clay has excellent performance - it is much lighter, and its thermal insulation efficiency is even higher. You can lay construction felt impregnated with tar - this is a long-known insulation technique. High-density mineral wool slabs will cope well with this task. The use of expanded polystyrene is somewhat questionable, but it is often used.
• The thermal insulator layer depends on the climatic conditions of the region - it should prevent the penetration of cold from the ground into the bathhouse in winter. Typically it ranges from 300 to 500 mm. The laid insulation must extend slightly up the walls so that a “cold bridge” does not create at the junction of the floor and walls.
• If mineral wool is used as insulation, then another layer of waterproofing is required, for which you can cover it on top with dense polyethylene film - one whole sheet, or with overlaps of 200 ÷ 250 mm with mandatory sealing with wide tape.

  mineral wool insulation

• Next, a reinforcing mesh is laid, for which a Ø 5 mm rod should be used.
• A system of beacons and guides for pouring screed is installed taking into account the required slope towards the drain. It will be much more convenient to place the drain hole in one of the corners of the room. If you do it in the center, the configuration of the slopes will turn out to be quite complex in execution.
• The minimum thickness of the finished concrete screed to be poured must be at least 30 mm. As a solution, you can use a regular cement-sand mixture in proportions 1: 3 (with M400 cement). However, a wide range of modern construction stores It also allows you to select ready-made dry mixtures that are perfectly adapted to rooms with high humidity. Their advantages are much shorter final ripening times, excellent plasticity, facilitating pouring processes and eliminating the appearance of voids in the thickness, micro reinforcement fiberglass, which gives the floors special strength.
• If you managed to fill the screed with high quality, with a well-leveled surface, then after it has fully gained strength it can already serve as a basis for laying on it ceramic tiles. However, many prefer, after appropriate procedures for hardening the concrete surface, to leave the coating as it is and use removable wooden flooring through which water in the washing room freely passes into the drainage system. It is easy to dry the wooden grates themselves in the fresh air from time to time.

If you plan to pour a concrete floor in two layers, then the sequence of work changes slightly:

• Primary pouring is carried out directly over the sand and gravel bed, with the obligatory inclusion of concrete mortar gravel of a fairly coarse fraction - about 30 mm. The rough screed is pulled along the beacons, and then it is given time to completely harden.
• Waterproofing is installed on top of the hardened rough screed - in the same way as described above.

  roofing felt

• Next, lay a layer of insulation. Again, the options here may be different, but one of the most successful and durable will be the inclusion of a layer of expanded (perlite) sand in the “pie”.

This material has the highest thermal insulating properties, and even a layer of 30 ÷ 40 mm will become a reliable barrier to the cold. From positive qualities sand - its porosity and lightness, there is also one significant drawback - it generates a lot of dust, it is impossible to work with it even in the lightest wind - only indoors or after the enterprise necessary measures to create reliable cover. To create a layer of thermal insulation, it is lightly bonded with cement, adding additional fiberglass to the solution for greater strength. However, in the case under consideration, the thermal insulation will be covered with a finishing screed, and micro-reinforcement can be dispensed with.

It is important to correctly observe the proportions and mixing technology. The simplest option:

20 liters of perlite are mixed with 10 liters of water in a concrete mixer;

Add 5 liters of cement (M400), continuing the mixing;

Having achieved complete homogeneity, add another 10 liters of perlite and 1 - 2 liters of water. Stirring continues until the mixture becomes free-flowing.

A technological pause is made for 10 minutes. No supplements should be made at this time.

Then kneading is continued until the solution will not gain plasticity, releasing excess water from its composition.

• The solution is placed on the first screed (on the waterproofing layer), leveled and given time to harden for at least one week.
• Next - everything is as in the first option - reinforcing the floor with a metal mesh, installing a beacon system and pouring a screed with a thickness of not less 30 mm in compliance with the required slope to the drainage point.
• After the top layer of the insulated concrete floor has completely hardened, it will be ready for further exterior finishing work.

cement m400

The video presented to the reader's attention shows the basic principles of laying concrete floors directly on the ground

Concrete floor with ventilated subfloor

The floor of the bathhouse can also be raised above ground level by pouring it along powerful joists. In this case it will be ensured efficient ventilation underground space(for which purpose special vent windows are left in the basement. This principle is often used when the characteristics of the soil allow the construction of a bathhouse only on a pile foundation.

General diagram of a concrete floor with a ventilated subfloor

• A subfloor made of 30 mm thick boards is installed on these “shelves”. All wooden parts structures must undergo antiseptic treatment in advance.
• When installing a subfloor, pipes must be immediately installed to drain water from the washing room.

• Insulation is laid on top of the waterproofing between the joists - mineral wool or expanded polystyrene panels. You can also use dry expanded clay backfill. The thermal insulation layer on top is covered with a waterproofing film.
• Reinforcing mesh is laid, beacons are installed taking into account the required floor slope.
• Next, fill the screed with a plastic solution, at least 30 mm thick, exactly as described above.

An important note that concerns specifically the installation of the floor in the bathhouse. To avoid problems with damp walls, the floor level is calculated in advance in such a way that, taking into account all the insulating layers and the planned decorative covering, it was not higher than the upper edge of the plinth (flashing crown).

The arrangement of the floor in a private steam room should be given Special attention. The level of comfort during use and the functionality of the bath itself depend on how well its design is thought out and implemented.

Materials for arranging floors in a steam room - what to use?

The floor base in the bathhouse performs several important functions at once. It not only ensures the safety of a person’s movement during water procedures, but is also part of the water removal system. A properly constructed floor in a bathhouse does not wear out prematurely, does not rot due to high humidity, and effectively retains heat in the room. In private steam rooms, the bases we are interested in are most often made of wood and concrete. Brick coverings are used much less frequently. They are expensive and quite difficult to build with your own hands.

If you want to build a permanent bathhouse made of stone or brick with a rest room, washing area, dressing room and use it all year round, experts advise choosing a concrete base. It must be equipped with a well-thought-out water drainage system and effective waterproofing. But for small bathhouses used exclusively in the summer, simpler wooden floors are suitable. They are built much faster and easier, are environmentally friendly, and have a very presentable appearance.

Wood bases have been used for a very long time. They create special comfort in the steam room, permeate the room with pleasant natural aromas, and make every bath procedure a small holiday for the true Russian soul. True, there are many disadvantages to wooden floors. The durability of such structures leaves much to be desired. No matter how hard you try to protect wood from the harmful effects of water, it will quickly lose its initial performance characteristics. Therefore, be prepared for the fact that after a while you will have to reinstall the wooden floors in the steam room.

Concrete structures are much preferable in terms of durability. They are not afraid of water and steam, temperature changes.

Concrete products can withstand even the most difficult conditions operation. On average, such foundations are used for 40–45 years without additional repairs. Let us immediately note the obvious disadvantages of concrete pavements. They are very cold (for this reason, a suitable finishing material, such as tile, is laid on top of them), labor-intensive to install with your own hands, and require a significant investment of time and money.

Concrete foundation - we build for centuries!

The floor for a concrete bathhouse is essentially a regular screed. It is made from a solution containing sand, cement and some special fillers (crushed stone, natural marble chips, gravel and others). We advise you not to bother mixing the required ingredients to obtain concrete composition, and immediately purchase the ready-made mixture at the nearest construction store. Factory-made sand-cement compositions in dry form are completely ready for use. They only need to be diluted with ordinary water in the recommended volume, thoroughly mixed with a hammer drill and nozzle, and then used for their intended purpose.

If the screed will serve as a finishing floor covering, or a simple flooring of boards will be installed on it, there is no need to add any special components to the purchased mixture. For cases when over concrete covering If you plan to lay tiles, it is advisable to add a little anhydrite and gypsum to the cement-sand composition. It’s even easier to buy a self-leveling compound created specifically for such cases.

The concrete base for a bath can be mounted on logs or directly on the ground. The first stage of work is the arrangement of a basic system for water removal. It consists of an intermediate container (this role is usually played by a small hole 0.4x0.4x0.3 m dug in the ground) and two pipes. The walls and bottom of the hole should be concreted and a pipe product with a cross-section of 20 cm should be brought to it. Its second end is brought into autonomous septic tank on the site or into the drainage ditch. We run another pipe from the pit into the bathhouse. It is advisable to equip this part of the system with a valve that prevents the penetration of unpleasant aromas into the steam room.

Next, we prepare the area for the screed. We remove the top layer of soil, pour sand into the resulting pit, tamp it down, and pour broken bricks or gravel on top. We should have a layer of approximately 0.25 m. Add 10 cm of crushed stone on top. Once again we compact the entire cake and fill it with sand-cement mixture (about 5-6 cm thick). Important nuance! The concrete layer must have a slight slope towards the pit-reservoir.

When the solution has hardened, lay it on mineral wool or polystyrene foam (you can add a layer of expanded clay or perlite). These materials play the role of effective insulation. Be sure to put waterproofing under the polystyrene foam and cotton wool (it’s best to use roofing felt). We cover the thermal insulation with the same material. Then we install a metal mesh (wire). It makes it possible to perform high-quality reinforcement.

Now you can pour the main screed. We apply the solution from the far corner and gradually approach the exit from the steam room. When pouring, the composition must be leveled (you need to work with an assistant). We perform this operation with a trowel. And to tighten the concrete in a circular motion, we use the rule. After 2–3 days the screed will harden. You can lay plank or tile flooring on it. We install the trim with a two-centimeter slope towards the drain. If you plan to use concrete as a finishing coating (this is possible), simply carefully level and sand its surface. But remember that such a floor in a private bath will be cold. In winter, it is problematic to use a steam room with it.

Leaking wooden floor - acceptable quality with minimal labor costs

You can make a floor in a wooden bathhouse using two technologies. The first involves the construction of leaking foundations, the second - non-leaking ones. Advice. If the experience construction work If you have a small one, it’s better to fix leaking floors. They are made in the form of flooring from boards, between which gaps are specially left. Through them, used water goes into the ground. Insulation of such structures is not carried out, sewer system not being built. Instead of the latter, a simple hole for drainage is used. They dig it under the bathhouse.

You can make a floor in a bathhouse of this type using the following algorithm:

1. 1. Level the area of ​​land, cover it with a layer of gravel, which should be compacted well.
2. 2. We prepare wooden logs (cut to the required sizes, apply an antiseptic composition) and support posts for them.
3. 3. We mount the treated logs on the supports, maintaining the distance between separate elements at a level of 0.5 m.
4. 4. Lay the boardwalk. We leave gaps of 2–3 mm between the wall of the bathhouse, the floor and the boards being mounted.

There is no need to fix the flooring elements to the joists. It is recommended to regularly remove the coating described and place it in the sun to dry. If necessary, it is possible to replace rotten boards at any time. Service life described floor structure– 4–6 years. Then you will have to build a new one. Such leaky floors are best used in a country house where you visit from time to time and rarely use the steam room.

There is another way to arrange simple plank coverings. It is less difficult to implement. After preparing the plot of land, beams with a cross section of 10x10 to 15x15 cm should be placed along the perimeter of the foundation. Be sure to apply an antiseptic to them! We install logs on the beams, secure them, and install flooring from boards on top.

Both types of leaky floors can be constructed from hardwood and coniferous wood. It is not recommended to lay oak boards. They become very slippery once wet. It is better to opt for products made from pine, linden or larch. The last option is considered the most optimal. One more nuance. The flooring is made from planed edged boards 4–5 cm thick. Thinner products will not last long in conditions of high humidity.

Leak-resistant wood floor - environmentally friendly and quite reliable

Now let's try to make a leak-proof base correctly. It will take more time to build such a structure. But the result of the work will be of higher quality. Leak-resistant wood floors are suitable for steam rooms used year-round. The design of such foundations requires the arrangement of a rough intermediate coating and the mandatory installation of a heat-insulating layer. Due to this, the service life of such structures reaches 10–12 years.

We build a leak-proof floor in the bathhouse according to the following step-by-step guide:

1. 1. We make a hole-reservoir, lay pipes for drains by analogy with arranging drainage for concrete pavements.
2. 2. Prepare the site. We remove the layer of soil and fill the cleaned area with sand and gravel. We ram each layer of material. If desired, fill in a concrete screed (5–6 cm). This part of the operation is optional. If you want to save time and money, skip it.
3. 3. Cover the floor base with a waterproofing layer. The best protector from moisture in this case will be roofing material.
4. 4. We carry out insulation using polystyrene foam or expanded clay. Mineral wool is not used for thermal insulation of non-leaking bases.
5. 5. We install the logs in 0.5 m increments on the pre-assembled beams. To make the latter, you need to use 10x20 cm bars. These supports, as you remember, are fastened along the perimeter of the foundation.

Then we install the intermediate base. We fix the subfloor from below the beams. We cover it with an additional heat-insulating layer (mounted on roofing felt). We lay another layer of waterproofing material on top of the insulation. The last stage of work is the installation of the finished floor. We install it with a slope, laying the boards close to each other. To the lags finishing coat fastened with nails or self-tapping screws.

We take tongue and groove boards for non-leaking floors, 3–5 cm thick. We make logs from wooden blocks with dimensions of 5x7 cm. Please note! The lower edge of the wood floor base must rise 10–20 cm above the level of the base (its upper edge) of the bathhouse. We hope that our instructions will help you build a truly reliable floor in your steam room.

The bathhouse is a special room when it comes to the microclimate at the time of its immediate use. Here high humidity and the same temperature. Although baths are different, both in the number of rooms related to it and in the characteristics of the microclimate, mainly the steam room. Somewhere the steam is dry and the temperature is over 100˚C (sauna), in another case there is moisture, but the air temperature is lower, within 70˚C (Russian bath). How can such features influence the choice of flooring method in these rooms, and how to suitable option with your own hands? These and some other questions regarding floors in the bathhouse will be the topics of this article.

Which gender is preferable in a bathhouse?

You can simply wash yourself in the bath or shower. The bathhouse, regardless of its type, is intended rather for recreational activities and positive emotions. Therefore, it is important that everything is as natural and natural as possible. So any polymers in the outer layer of the finish bath rooms, especially in the steam room, disappear. The same applies to flooring materials.

The second requirement for flooring is the ability to withstand changes in temperature and humidity. These indicators, again, depend on the type of steam room.

The third condition is comfort during tactile contact with the floor material. It must be at an acceptable temperature, since it is not customary to wear shoes in the bathhouse. This factor depends not only on the coating itself, but also on the quality of the thermal insulation barrier.

Which flooring materials meet all three requirements? These are wood products and tiles. The latter is suitable for a wet steam room with a relatively low temperature; wood will be perfect in a sauna where dry air is provided. Tiles are not suitable for a Finnish sauna, as they will heat up to such a temperature that it will be impossible to walk on them. Products made of wood will not last long if they are constantly moistened. It is not advisable to treat them with all kinds of impregnations, since this will require breathing. Wooden floors are still used in Russian baths. But at the same time, you should select more durable types of wood (aspen, larch), or be prepared to replace the flooring in a few years.

The wooden floor is laid on joists; to lay the tiles you need to make a screed. Are there any features of the installation of a base for tiles in a bathhouse, and which of them should be taken into account? More on this later.

Features of the screed in the bath

The base of the floor for tiles in this room in the vast majority of cases is done on the ground. Based on this, the first two activities that are worth thinking about are the following:

• insulation from ground moisture;
• creating a thermal insulation barrier, especially if it is intended to be used in winter.

Another feature of the screed, when compared with residential premises, is the creation of a surface slope towards the sewer water intake. This will prevent water from accumulating on the surface and forming uncomfortable puddles.

What material should I choose for making rough and finishing subfloors? Taking into account the usually small volumes and not too strict requirements for the surface designed for laying tiles, classic concrete is quite suitable in both cases. If desired, you can use a liquid or semi-dry cement-sand mixture instead of concrete for the finishing layer. It is advisable to strengthen the finishing layer with reinforcement, especially if there is a layer of insulation underneath.

Are there any special requirements for a concrete base in a bathhouse, taking into account the microclimate? If the surface of the screed was the final floor surface, then it might be worthwhile to additionally provide it with moisture-repellent properties. Taking into account the fact that this is now unlikely and tiles will be laid on top, moisture will not affect the base in any way.

When it comes to temperature changes, there are options. The high temperature in a wet steam room will not affect the structure and durability of concrete or other similar material in any way, since the heat goes up. The screed here will warm up to a maximum of 40˚C. This is absolutely not a critical temperature for any cement-based mortar.

It’s another matter if at least minimal heating is not provided in the bathhouse, and in winter the temperature in the room will drop much below 0˚C ( country option). Then, when preparing a mixture for installing a concrete screed, it is worth adding substances that improve frost-resistant qualities to it, and when subsequently laying the tiles, purchase an adhesive that meets the conditions.

Making a rough foundation with your own hands

In both options for finishing flooring (whether wood or tile), the first step is to create a rough screed that would become reliable, solid foundation For structural elements floors that will be located higher. Therefore the below step-by-step instruction applicable in both cases. To carry out the work you will need the following tools:

• concrete mixer or container for manual mixing of concrete;
• manual or mechanical tamping;
• water (laser level);
• rule;
• trowel or trowel;
• tools for excavation work.

The following materials should be prepared:

• large crushed stone (gravel);
• fine crushed stone (fraction 1-1.5 cm);
• river (washed) sand;
• cement grade 400;
• dense polyethylene film.

Now about the sequence of installing a rough subfloor on the ground.

1. The surface soil layers are carefully compacted and leveled.
2. Adding is done. First a layer of gravel, then half crushed stone with sand. With a proposed insulation thickness of 50 mm, the top layer of fine bedding should be 15-17 cm below the desired level of the finishing screed.
3. The fine bedding is leveled, a polyethylene film is laid on top with an overlap on the walls to the level of the upper edge of the finished base. If the film is not continuous, adjacent areas overlap by about 15 cm. The film will serve as a water barrier in the path of ground moisture, and will also prevent moisture from leaving the concrete.
4. Concrete is being prepared. For rough screed, you can use a solution with a reduced content of the binder component. Therefore, a proportion of 4:4:1, where, respectively, fine crushed stone, sand and Portland cement M-400, will be quite acceptable for these purposes.
5. The rough screed does not imply perfect alignment surface, so it is not necessary to install beacons here. But it is advisable to draw a horizontal line along the perimeter of the walls using a water or laser level and some kind of marker. The smoother the surface, the easier it will be to lay insulation or install joists under wooden flooring. The prepared concrete is poured starting from the wall farthest from the entrance to the room and leveled first with a trowel and then with a rule.

Important! In order to make the rough base as even as possible (within reasonable limits), when the concrete has set to the point that it can be walked on, you need to generally trim the pliable surface, removing strong convex irregularities. The solution that is removed can be immediately placed in the largest recesses. This method allows the surface to be sufficiently leveled for subsequent technological operations.

Do-it-yourself insulation and finishing screed

To create a thermal insulation barrier under concrete base It is better to use polymer moisture-resistant insulation for floors. In our case, you can use sheet foam with a density of 35 kg/m3, but extruded polystyrene foam is better, which is stronger and absolutely impervious to moisture. In addition, the slabs of this material are equipped with joining protrusions, which makes its installation more convenient without the formation of gaps.

If the rough base is fairly level, the insulation boards can be laid directly on the surface. When existing unevenness prevents the polystyrene foam from being laid properly, you can use polymer-cement glue, which will help smooth out the unevenness and “beautifully” lay the insulation sheets. The slabs should be placed offset to avoid the formation of long longitudinal joints. A gap of about a centimeter should be left between the polystyrene foam and the wall to allow for deformation expansion. It is advisable to fill all seams and gaps with polyurethane foam to prevent the formation of cold bridges.

If glue was used to lay the insulation, you should wait a day, after which you can install the beacons. A long one is used for control. building level. As guides, you can use plaster beacons with a T-shaped end, or guide profiles, which are used to assemble frames for sheathing. Beacons are installed on thick cement-sand or gypsum mortar laid out in slides. When adjusting their position, they are pressed into the applied mixture.

If you want to make a slope, the beacons should be placed at an angle. In order for water to drain from the tiles, and at the same time the inclined surface does not create discomfort while walking on it, the optimal height difference is within 1.5-2 cm/m.

Taking into account possible temperature changes, even with small area After finishing the fill, you should attach a damper tape around the perimeter of the wall, which would protrude 2-3 cm above the surface level. The excess can then be cut off or covered with a plinth.

If the choice for finishing pouring is concrete, the proportions of the solution are as follows: 4:2:1, where, respectively, are the volume fractions of sand, fine crushed stone and M-400 cement. The cement-sand mixture is prepared in a ratio of 4:1. The prepared solution is poured between the beacons and leveled using the rule. When the solution has set, the surface should be rubbed using a plaster trowel. The beacons do not need to be removed during subsequent laying of tiles. If this is done, the seams should be filled with freshly prepared mortar and smoothed.

Wooden floor in the steam room

In a room that will be a Finnish bath, everything inside should be made of wood. Only wood at the temperatures provided here will not cause thermal injury to the body. Therefore, you need to make wooden flooring as the floor.

Visiting a bathhouse has long become a Russian folk tradition: who doesn’t like to relax in a steam room on the weekend? And if you make a sauna yourself, then the pleasure only increases. The construction of a bathhouse is not so much a complex as a painstaking process. When constructing this structure, you cannot make mistakes, because eliminating defects will be problematic, and all the joy from having your own bathhouse will quickly disappear.

An important stage of construction is flooring. Its design must ensure water drainage, so work on arranging floors in bathhouses with your own hands is best done in accordance with the recommendations of specialists.

Carrying out preparatory work

Before proceeding with the installation of floors in the bathhouse, it is necessary to carry out a number of preparatory work. It should be taken into account that the floor is the coldest place in the structure, so the choice of material for it must be approached with complete seriousness, because stepping on a cold surface with bare feet will be unpleasant.

Synthetic materials for flooring are not suitable due to high temperature indoors: they will release toxic substances.

For the bath floor you can use concrete, wood or tiles. Experts recommend first deciding on the floor covering, and then solving issues with pouring the screed.

The main stages of preparatory work are the arrangement of a drainage system, design of ventilation and laying of a waterproofing layer. If all these three components are performed correctly, then the floor in the bathhouse will serve you for many years.

Water drainage is usually planned on the lowest section of the floor. For this they use cement screed. First, the surface is filled with the mixture and then leveled, taking into account a slight downward bevel.

The issue of waterproofing when building a bathhouse is very important: all internal and external surfaces of the structure need treatment to protect it from moisture. How to waterproof the floor in bathhouses with your own hands?

To do this, the cement screed is cleared of debris, treated with a primer and a layer of waterproofing material is applied. You can use another method: first apply mastic to the cement (preferably in several layers), and then lay a special roll of material.

Neglect preparatory work it is forbidden.

The service life of the floor depends on how well the water drainage and ventilation system are designed.

A waterproofing layer and impregnation with an antiseptic will allow wooden elements remain in good condition for a long time, which will save you from the need to constantly engage in repair work.

Concrete floors in the bathhouse

The bath floor can be made of concrete, but here it is important to remember that if the surface is not finished with anything, then the grate should be at the level of the screed. Before pouring the cement-sand mixture, it is necessary to lay drain pipes and install a ladder, then you should take care of the sand cushion, waterproofing and insulation.

In what order should I proceed?

The concrete floor for the bathhouse is made in several stages. The sequence of DIY work is clearly explained in the video. First, a sand cushion must be filled in; crushed stone can be used instead of sand. The sand layer should reach at least 3-4 cm, the waterproofing for the bath floor spreads over it. As insulation, you can use ordinary roofing felt - affordable and inexpensive material. If you have additional financial resources, you can purchase a special film with good characteristics vapor tightness.

Sorry, nothing found.

A layer of dry expanded clay is poured onto the waterproofing layer. Its height should not be less than 3-4 cm, and the granules must be dry. Wet expanded clay slowly releases moisture back, which can affect the quality of the floor.

The screed can be cement-sand or concrete; in both cases, before pouring it, it is necessary to install beacons - special profiles that will level the surface. Do not forget that in the case of a concrete floor in a bathhouse, it is poured with a slope towards the ladder, so the beacons must be installed accordingly. Examples of the placement of lighthouse profiles taking into account the floor bevel are shown in the photo.

Before carrying out work, the ladder grate is covered with some material to prevent the mixture from getting in, after which they begin to fill the floor and level the surface of the composition.

Do-it-yourself concrete flooring in a bathhouse is most often done in the steam room and washing area. This approach is due to the fact that these rooms are characterized by high humidity. It is advisable to pour a concrete floor in a large brick bathhouse. When choosing a concrete floor for your bathhouse, it is worth considering that standing on it will be uncomfortable: you will have to use cork mats or wooden grates.

Using tiles

Tiling a bath floor is the best option for those who value comfort and practicality. A tiled floor looks aesthetically pleasing, especially since the existing range of this material allows you to choose any design you like. Tiles with a wood pattern are ideal for a bathhouse.

What are the advantages and disadvantages of this gender? Tiles on the floor look much more attractive than just concrete. Unlike wooden floors, it does not rot, so it will last longer, and thanks to the rough surface, it will practically not slip.

The only disadvantage of a tiled floor in a bathhouse is that it heats up as the room temperature rises. In order to neutralize this disadvantage, you will have to use wooden gratings.

This is not very convenient, since the grates need to be dried after each bath, but it is much easier to dry them or make new ones than to redo a rotten wooden floor. The advantage of tiles is durability and easy cleaning. The tile does not need special care, cleaning it will not take much time.

How they post it tiles floors in the bathhouse, described in detail in video tutorials. The sequence of actions is as follows: first, make a concrete screed in the standard manner, then, taking into account all the bevels towards the drain, lay the tiles. When tiling a floor, it is important to remember two rules. The floor must be treated with an antiseptic - this will prevent the appearance of rot, and the tiles themselves should be laid so that the drainage ladder is below the level of the coating - this will ensure correct work drainage

Tiled floors are a beautiful and practical solution for a steam room and washing department your bathhouse. An additional advantage tiles will be used to cover the lower part of the walls: this will protect them from premature damage and make it easier to clean the room after bath procedures.

Wooden floors

Wooden flooring is a traditional option for a real bathhouse. Wood finish in itself promotes an atmosphere of relaxation and simultaneous healing, characteristic of a Russian bathhouse. Should I choose wood as a flooring material? How do you make bathhouse floors from boards with your own hands?

• Coniferous boards do not slip, which guarantees your safety on a wet floor;
• Coniferous wood contains resin, which ensures the longest service life of the new floor in the bathhouse;
• Resin and other compounds contained in wood coniferous species trees, help relax your body and have a healing effect.

As suitable materials you can use pine, spruce, fir or larch - standard types of coniferous trees, boards from which can be purchased without any problems. Building materials from hardwood It is also allowed to use trees; oak is suitable for a bath floor. But in this case the pleasant pine smell will be absent.

Wooden floors in a bathhouse can be made in different ways. They are divided into two types:

• Not leaking;
• Leaking.

What is the difference between a floor that does not leak and a floor that does not leak? The difference lies in the design of the floor. The non-leaking floor is a flooring made of boards on a concrete screed. How are such floors made in bathhouses with your own hands? First, a regular screed is performed, into which the logs are then deepened. The screed is made with a slope: either to one side or to the middle of the room. A grate is installed at the drainage point; under it there should be a drainage system connected to the sewer or led to a sump.

The boards themselves are laid on the reinforced logs. This method of flooring has a couple of advantages: the concrete screed ensures the durability of the floor, but its appearance does not spoil your mood, since the surface is covered with plank flooring, which is quite simple to make.

A floor that doesn't leak will actually last you quite a long time. Over time, some boards may become unusable, as they simply begin to rot from excess moisture, but replacing them is always easier and cheaper than re-laying the entire floor.

Installing a leaking floor requires more labor. The sequence of work is as follows. First, a layer of sand and crushed stone is poured onto the ground, then a concrete screed is placed on top of it, which should have a bevel towards one of the walls, made in the form of a flat funnel. A sealed container for water is made for it, for this they use either a brick or a concrete ring.

An important rule for installing leaky floors in a bathhouse says: first, drainage is done to drain water and the foundation of the stove is built, then you can start laying the floor itself.

The boards are mounted on logs, and it is recommended to lay them at a distance of 5-7 mm from each other. Such gaps will not interfere with movement on the floor and will allow water to flow down without obstruction. A short distance will ensure water flow even when the boards swell from moisture.

A leaky floor is best done in a bathhouse, which is built on a foundation made of screw piles, because in this case there will be enough space under the room to carry out all necessary work. Another option is also possible: a leaky floor can be made in a bathhouse on a strip foundation, provided that the base is at least half a meter.

Water drainage during installation of a leaking floor must be organized as efficiently as possible. If water remains under the boards, this will lead to the formation of mold, the proliferation of microorganisms and the appearance of unpleasant rotten odors. As a preventative measure, cleaning is recommended running water and treating the floor with antiseptics.

When you make a floor for a bathhouse with your own hands, you may miss some parts in the process. important points. The most common example is the lack of treatment of a wooden floor, as a result of which it begins to rot in certain places. These troubles can be dealt with, although they will require a decent amount of time.

To do this, the flooring is disassembled and sent to dry. Rotten areas are cleaned out using a grinder, then the flooring is reassembled: dried boards that are in good condition are laid, damaged elements are replaced with new ones. The wood is impregnated with a moisture-protective composition, the final accent should be wax polishing and then varnishing. When constructing a floor, it is initially recommended to use impregnating compounds that protect the wood from moisture and microorganisms.

Making the floor in your bathhouse yourself is not difficult. The main thing in this matter is to take a responsible approach to organizing water flow, laying waterproofing material and ensuring ventilation of the structure. The floor covering can be anything: you have the right to choose a reliable concrete screed, practical tiles of the design you like, or the usual coniferous wood. The durability of the floor largely depends not on the type of coating, but on the quality of the work performed.

A concrete floor on the ground in a bathhouse is considered the most convenient option for organizing drainage in washing rooms and steam rooms. Depending on the soil conditions, floor covering and the presence of a heated floor, the design of the pie structure may differ.

Of all the existing foundations, it is possible to fill the floor on the ground only inside the MZLF tape, in as a last resort- inside a low grillage. It should be taken into account that the level of flooring in wet rooms (steam room and washing room) should be at least 2 cm lower than in other rooms (SP29.13330).

The bathhouse does not have constant heating; the load-bearing and enclosing structures, the soil underneath them completely freezes in winter. In clay soils, accordingly, frost heaving occurs.

Intermittent heating

For floors on the ground of buildings in which heating devices are turned on periodically, the following set of measures is used to reduce/eliminate heaving forces:

Unlike foundations, ground floor drainage is not used, since this drainage system must be located outside the bathhouse foundation.

Important! The walls of the bathhouse are insulated, not from the outside, but from the inside, so as not to waste extra firewood to warm them up and reduce the time it takes to reach steam mode.

The need for drainage

The bathhouse is the only room among the outbuildings, inside the rooms of which water pours onto the floor in large quantities. It is possible to collect and drain wastewater from the floor of a bathhouse along the ground only through a drain, similar to a shower stall.

For a small washing room, one ladder is usually used, towards which gravity slopes of 2 - 4 degrees are created. outer surface concrete floor screed on the ground. The main nuances in this case are:

The slots are necessary for the drainage of liquid, which collects in the drain under the boards. To maintain the resulting underground, the boards are removable:

• fit into the grooves of the logs;
• hammered together into small shields.

If it is necessary to clean the underground or sewer, flooring disassembled and then put back in place.

Construction of a floor pie on the ground in a bathhouse

Unlike floors on joists with a ventilated subfloor, floors on the ground have a much longer service life, but are absolutely not repairable. Therefore, all communications (water supply and sewerage) are installed inside the building before it is concreted.

Base

Unlike foundations, a ground floor does not support structural loads from the building. However, heaving forces from clay soils act on it and operational loads from the weight of users, benches, and lungs are transferred metal furnaces, which can be installed without their own foundation.

Dangerous for reinforced concrete structures only uneven heaving forces:

• clay has a scaly structure, when it gets wet and freezes, it increases in volume unevenly, the screed can tear, lift in a separate area without the possibility of restoration;
• crushed stone and sand are non-metallic materials, even if they are saturated with water to the maximum, when they freeze they will increase in volume evenly;

In other words, the floor will rise evenly along the ground, the ice will thaw in the spring, and the structure will lower to a similar position without damage. The fertile layer is dangerous due to shrinkage due to the abundance of organic matter inside the chernozem.

Therefore, the base for the floor on the ground is made in the following way:

There is a nuance to this:

• the concrete floor screed on the ground must be protected from soil moisture;
• the waterproofing layer is made of rolled bitumen or polymer materials;
• roofing felt, Bikrost, steklogidroizol and other materials can be rolled out over crushed stone, but it is very difficult to seal the joints of overlapping strips, in addition, when further walking on the surface of the waterproofing for laying wire reinforcing mesh and pouring concrete, these materials can be torn by the soles of shoes on the uneven edges of the crushed stone.

Therefore, a thin leveling layer of sand is either poured over the crushed stone, or a footing is poured. This screed is made of low-strength concrete B7.5, is not reinforced, has a thickness of 3–5 cm, and is used as a large-format table for rolling out and sealing seams of waterproofing material.

Footing for laying waterproofing.

Important! To decouple this rigid underlying layer, strips of extruded polystyrene foam are installed vertically around the perimeter of the foundation or the surface of the supporting structures is covered with damper tape.

Insulation layers

Traditionally, for reinforced concrete structures, the insulating layers are:

Advice! The waterproofing does not have to be glued to the concrete base; it is enough to ensure the tightness of the joints of the individual strips of rolled material.

However, in most cases, the footing is coated with bitumen mastic and glass hydroisol is fused onto it to increase the service life of this layer, since it is not possible to subsequently repair it.

When choosing insulation for floors on the ground, you should consider:

• mineral wool can shrink, since the density of these materials is lower than that of other heat insulators;
• basalt and glass fiber lose their thermal insulation properties when wet, and moisture from these materials cannot evaporate in a concrete structure on its own;
• Ecowool is not used in screeds.

Therefore, what remains is extruded high-density polystyrene foam, foam glass and expanded clay. Extruded high-density polystyrene foams have an optimal quality/price ratio, which is most often used in ground floors. Depending on the presence of a heated floor, the thickness of the insulation is 5 – 15 cm. The seams are filled with polyurethane foam.

Concrete screed

The SP standards do not indicate that screeds and ground floors, which they actually are, need to be reinforced. However, to increase the service life, wire mesh (4 mm wire, 5 x 5 cm mesh) is laid in the lower level, maintaining a protective layer of 2 - 3 cm. To do this, the mesh is placed on waterproofing on top of concrete or polymer pads. It is prohibited to use scraps of reinforcement and crushed stone.

The thickness of the screed is selected depending on the construction of the floor on the ground and operating conditions:

Important! For the screed, ready-mixed concrete from B12.5 is used, pouring is carried out according to pre-installed beacons, especially if it is necessary to make slopes.

Flooring

The easiest way is to cover a concrete screed (slab) with tiles or porcelain stoneware. However, it is not comfortable to walk on such a surface barefoot. It is not economically feasible to install a boiler for a water heated floor inside a bathhouse; when choosing an electric heated floor, operating costs increase sharply.

Tiled flooring.

Therefore, removable flooring is laid on the tiles or a slotted wooden floor is made:

• the floorboards are laid with a gap of 1 - 2 cm on the joists for gravity removal of water;
• a ladder with a dry water seal is integrated into the screed, to which slopes are made on all sides.

Thus, the layout of the floor on the ground inside the bathhouse can be modified depending on the specific operating conditions and the presence of a heated floor in the structure.

Advice! If you need repairmen, there is a very convenient service for selecting them. Just submit in the form below detailed description work that needs to be done and you will receive offers with prices from construction teams and companies by email. You can see reviews about each of them and photographs with examples of work. It's FREE and there's no obligation.