Well      06/23/2020

Frame bath insulation of steam room. Insulation of walls, ceiling, floor of a frame bath. Polystyrene foam, mineral wool, polyurethane foam, sawdust. Ventilation in a frame bath: rules of creation

A steam room is a building that is operated at elevated temperature conditions. Therefore, the requirements for such a structure are quite high. During the construction of a bathhouse, thermal insulation plays a role special role. One of important points in the construction of a steam room is insulation frame bath. Exactly proper organization and the high quality of the material allows you to retain heat in the room, thereby increasing the service life of the structure. But before you start insulating the bathhouse with your own hands, you should consider in more detail possible options production of work.

Advantages and disadvantages of materials

If we consider the form of insulation, they can be of the three most common types:

  • tiled;
  • in the form of mats;
  • roll

The first two forms are easy to lay on the walls yourself by cutting the material into squares or small mats. And here roll view thermal insulation is suitable if you entrust the work to specialists who have sufficient experience in insulation. Insulation materials for frame baths can also be divided into natural and artificial.

The following are classified as natural insulation materials.

  1. Wood fiber. It perfectly absorbs moisture and quickly releases it, allowing the walls to breathe. Another advantage is that the material is non-allergenic: it does not emit harmful toxins at elevated air temperatures in the steam room. But the main disadvantage is excessive absorption of moisture, which, if the hood is not properly organized, will cause rotting.
  2. Linen mats. This is an environmentally friendly material that not only perfectly absorbs and releases moisture, but also has high heat conservation rates in the room. The main disadvantage of this type of insulation is its fragility. Moreover, rodents like to make their nests in flax mats, which leads to damage to the structure and deterioration of the thermal insulation properties.
  3. Basalt material. Gives better performance fire safety, does not burn and can withstand high temperatures. In addition, it has good thermal insulation properties, is durable, quickly absorbs moisture and does not retain it in the walls of the bathhouse.

When choosing the shape and composition, take into account all factors: environmental friendliness, non-flammability, and hygroscopicity. But despite the many benefits of using natural materials, some people prefer artificial insulation. Therefore, to choose suitable option for construction, you need to consider all options.

Insulating materials

Artificial materials are often cheaper, more durable, and easier to install.

Artificial insulation for baths

Name pros Minuses
Expanded polystyrene (foam plastic). This is an economical option that is easy to work with. Excellent thermal insulation properties, water resistance. But at the same time it has high fire hazard rates and emits harmful substances at high temperatures.
Fiberglass. Relatively inexpensive material with good thermal insulation properties. Easy to install. It is difficult to work with your hands without gloves: sometimes it causes allergic reactions. May also irritate the respiratory tract.
Ecowool. Health-safe insulation that does not cause allergic reactions. Creates good sound insulation and is easy to install. The downside is the fragility of the material, the formation of voids during shrinkage of the insulation and the gradual decrease in thermal insulation properties.

Also, for insulation, sawdust, sawdust-gypsum mixture, mineral wool and many other materials can be used at the discretion of the owner. If this happens summer sauna, then you can save on thermal insulation. But for a structure that is planned to be used in winter time, it is better to choose reliable and high-quality materials.

Insulation of walls outside and inside

This process begins with their construction. To do this, a wooden or metal sheathing is attached to the wall frame, into which the insulating material. Then, the thermal insulation material is gradually covered from the outside with a layer of waterproofing. The walls inside the bathhouse are insulated in the same way. Only here, after laying the insulation, the thermal insulation is covered with a vapor barrier followed by decorative cladding.

There should be no space between these layers. And for covering waterproofing it is used facade material. Thus, you will get a kind of pie, the main layers of which will be waterproofing on the outside, and vapor barrier on the inside.

To prevent the formation of cracks in the heat-insulating layer, experts recommend laying two layers of insulation into the bathhouse frame at once. Best choice for work will be the use of tiled and roll material. Moreover, during the insulation process, you should pay attention to the outer and inner sides, which can be determined using the manufacturer’s instructions.

Particular attention should be paid to insulating the walls around the stove.

Here you need to be extremely prudent and organize additional protection from exposure to high temperatures. An asbestos board, basalt fabric or needle-punched mats are suitable for this. Such protection can be installed on a vapor barrier or simply on decorative cladding - this point is determined solely by your preferences.

The best option for vapor barrier is to use foil. It can withstand high temperatures and has good fire safety characteristics. And here plastic film It is not worth laying for a vapor barrier. When using the steam room, it may simply melt. Not only the quality of thermal insulation, but also the thickness of the walls after all work is completed will depend on the choice of material.

Ceiling insulation process

Heat loss in a steam room can occur due to uninsulated floors, so it is necessary to take care of this at the construction stage of the structure. The principle of working with the ceiling is practically no different from the actions when insulating the walls of a frame bath. To do this, a vapor barrier layer is laid. Then the insulation is fixed, to which another layer of vapor barrier is attached. This entire structure is sheathed with a decorative layer. But in this case, there should be a small space between the sheathing and the vapor barrier material, which will make it possible to speed up the drying of the ceiling.

The work process is quite simple, but still, when making thermal insulation in a bathhouse with your own hands, you need to strictly follow the instructions. You need to carefully consider what exactly you would like to see and what insulation is best suited for your future sauna. After all, in this case, you shouldn’t save money; you need to take the choice seriously. The use of high-quality materials, firstly, protects a person from harmful toxins that can be released when the air temperature in the sauna increases, and secondly, improves fire safety indicators, increasing the resistance of the insulator to fire. Therefore, when choosing cheap materials, a person primarily risks his health.

Floor insulation

Performed during the arrangement of the bathhouse. To do this, it is necessary to prepare and thoroughly compact the soil. Then make the main screed by filling the area with concrete. On at this stage It is also worth taking care of the drainage. To do this, concrete must be poured at an angle.

When the concrete screed is ready for further work, you can begin to apply a waterproofing layer of polyethylene or roofing felt. After this, insulation is laid, followed by laying a second waterproofing layer, and again the floor is filled with concrete.

On concrete surface lay tiles, wooden boards or another facing layer - at the owner’s choice. Floor material in different rooms frame bath may differ. For example, in a recreation room it is good to lay laminate flooring or tiles. But for a washroom or steam room, wooden boards are better suited. But in this case, there should be small gaps between them that prevent water from stagnating on the floor surface.

So frame structures, like a bathhouse, thermal insulation is simply necessary, since the main function that a high-quality steam room should perform is not just heat preservation, but maintenance high temperature in room. Therefore, many nuances of thermal insulation must be carried out in accordance with technological requirements. And having chosen quality material and having completed the work according to the instructions, you can not only determine the best option for the budget, but also to eliminate heat loss in the steam room and fully enjoy your vacation with friends or loved ones.

Properly performed insulation work ensures the preservation of heat inside the room, improving the quality of functioning of the steam room and the service life of the materials.

A frame bath is a prefabricated structure. It is built from wooden beams. Such a structure is easy to move from place to place, install on wooden piles, adjust the distance to the ground, and arrange water drainage. To repair a bathhouse or replace building elements, it is not necessary to disassemble the entire structure. Insulation of a frame bath is part of the construction process. The walls of the bathhouse are a cake with a vapor barrier, waterproofing and a layer of insulation. The baths are insulated during construction.

The procedure for insulating a frame bath

The insulation of a frame bath should begin from the walls and floor, gradually rising. The ceiling is thermally insulated last, the steam room too, since it inner part buildings. Before starting work on insulating the bath, you need to install external walls. For example, cover the frame with clapboard or other wood, and after thermal insulation, install a ventilated facade. This will help draw moisture out.

The floor in the bathhouse should have a pie design. First, the sheathing is installed, which must be covered with a vapor barrier, then the insulation is installed, then the waterproofing and finishing coating.

Insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse is similar to the floor, only for vapor barrier you need to install a foil covering. It retains heat and reflects it from the ceiling. Also, near the ceiling you need to provide an exhaust hood or hole for air and condensation to escape.

When insulating a steam room, you need to pay attention to the area around the stove. It requires additional protection from moisture and fire. In addition to insulation and waterproofing, foil or a thin layer of aluminum and then heat-resistant brick are laid on the walls around the stove.

Insulating the walls of a frame bath

Before starting work, you need to make sure that the thickness of the frame slats is at least 150 millimeters. You can lay the insulation directly between them: the structure will be lighter, but hardly more durable. If you plan to use the bathhouse in winter, it is worth covering the frame with clapboard on the outside.

Then lay a layer of vapor barrier, covering the frame slats and lining. The vapor absorber can be foil coating, polymer and membrane PVC films. You can attach them to wood with a stapler. Mount the sheathing on top, and lay insulation between it and the frame.


Installation of insulation should begin from the bottom up along the perimeter of the bathhouse frame. Depending on the material, you can attach it to the wall using glue or dowels with screws. For some insulation, for example, polyurethane foam, fasteners are not needed, since the material has adhesive properties. The insulation layer must be at least 100 millimeters. In some cases, it is possible to lay a double layer of thermal insulation of 50 millimeters. Place foil between layers for additional protection.

Gaps and cracks between insulation boards must be closed polyurethane foam. Then proceed to laying waterproofing. To do this, it is also worth taking foil material and attaching it over the sheathing. Cover all joints and gaps with scraps of foil. For finishing coating walls, take the clapboard and cover it with waterproofing.

Before insulating the walls, check again the places with hoods or air outlets. They need to be placed at the top of the wall. After insulation, treat the holes with polyurethane foam.

Insulating the floor in a frame bath

You need to start insulating a bathhouse by installing wooden slabs on the outside of the frame. Drill holes in them for ventilation and one big hole to drain water. Then lay a layer of waterproofing - PVC membrane. It should completely cover the frame and wooden slabs. It can be glued. After this, lay a layer of insulation between the frame slats. It could be polyurethane foam. Due to its physicochemical properties, it is attached to the surface without glue. Spray layer - 25-40 millimeters. It should be taken into account that after spraying the polyurethane foam will increase in volume. After this, cover the insulation with a thin wooden slab and leave a gap of 2-3 millimeters between the materials. This will help the condensation evaporate. For added protection on top wooden slab lay a layer of polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene and secure it with glue. At this stage, pay attention to the drain. Place sealant around it. Then cover the entire floor with foil waterproofing.

The finishing coating can be either wood treated with antifungal agents or a polymer-cement screed with tiles.


Insulation of the ceiling of a frame bath

The thermal insulation of the ceiling of a frame bath is similar to the insulation of walls. First you need to install a PVC membrane that will remove moisture outside, then a layer of insulation, then a foil covering - it will help keep the heat inside. The membrane must be attached to wooden beams using a stapler and foil tape. Then install the lathing, which will help to evenly distribute the insulation around the perimeter of the ceiling. Insert thermal insulation between the lathing slats, a layer of 50 to 100 millimeters. The insulation must be uniform without gaps. If there are any, cover them with polyurethane foam. Then attach a vapor barrier: foil covering or thermal film. Install wooden slats on top. This will allow the material to be attached more tightly.

The final stage will be finishing cladding. Facing panels, lining made of linden, larch or pine are suitable for this. It is better to fasten heavy materials to the ceiling using dowels and self-tapping screws, and light ones - polyurethane glue or a stapler. Above the stove you need to install a screen made of of stainless steel. This will protect the ceiling from deformation and overheating. The same should be done on the floor around the stove.


Insulation of the steam room (steam room) of a frame bath

To insulate a steam room, you need to follow the same instructions as for insulating a bathhouse. The steam room is distinguished by a high concentration of moisture and an oven. To protect the walls from fungus and mold, you need to install a double layer of waterproofing. Also, the insulation layer can be made double. Place a PVC membrane between the layers. It is worth paying attention to the area around the stove, chimney and windows. Cover all gaps and cracks with insulation and sealant, install a foil covering around the entire perimeter of the steam room, and then cover it with clapboard.

Materials for insulating a frame bath

For thermal insulation of baths you can use different materials: from mineral wool to polyurethane foam. When choosing insulation, you need to pay attention to its properties:

  • low flammability class;
  • low thermal conductivity coefficient;
  • lowest moisture permeability;
  • environmental friendliness;
  • long term operation.

PPU

Closed-cell polyurethane foam has a water absorption rate of 5% of the volume, therefore it is suitable for insulating a frame bath. Its thermal conductivity is 0.022 W/m*K - one of the lowest among thermal insulation materials. PU foam does not absorb moisture and is not subject to rotting or thinning. It is sprayed using a special technique in a single layer. High adhesion allows installation not only on horizontal, but also on vertical surfaces. To insulate a bath, it is important that the thermal insulation is non-flammable. The flammability class of polyurethane foam varies depending on the requirements. This polymer does not emit harmful substances into the atmosphere even in high-temperature rooms. Its service life reaches 30 years or more. Read more about polyurethane foam equipment and components.


Thermal insulation properties polystyrene foam are comparable to polyurethane foam. The thermal conductivity coefficient is 0.038 W/m*K. Polyfoam also does not absorb moisture and is resistant to salt solutions. It is often used to insulate residential buildings and various structures. However, it can become unusable from acetone, kerosene and oil. It has high class flammable and flammable. When burned, it emits a pungent toxic odor. Polystyrene foam can be used to insulate the floor in a bathhouse, but you should remember to take precautions and avoid overheating. The service life of polystyrene foam is from 10 to 20 years.


Conclusion

Insulation of a frame bath requires an integrated approach. You need to start from the floor and work your way up. A combination of several materials can be used. When insulating, make sure there are no cracks or gaps in the frame structure.

If you don’t know what materials to choose for insulating a bath, you can’t calculate their consumption and are looking for a suitable team, use the service on the website. There are more than 630 registered teams of performers ready to help you. to contact a consultant. He will tell you about the cost of the work and help you select a team.

Frame structures require insulation, especially if this applies to buildings such as a bathhouse with a steam room or a sauna. Since their direct functional purpose is to maintain high temperature for a long time, then design features must meet these requirements.

Careful insulation of a bathhouse or sauna eliminates heat loss from the room and helps maintain a high temperature for a long time.

Based on practical observations, insulated structures heat up and warm up faster and cool down more slowly. These parameters result in financial savings on fuel, which pays for the costs of the work performed on organizing vapor barrier and insulation.

Properly performed waterproofing prevents increased negative effects of moisture on wood and the frame bathhouse will remain in its original condition for a long time.

Insulation of a frame bath begins with a vapor barrier

The material for waterproofing should be selected with a high threshold of resistance to high temperatures. Such materials include:

Metal foil - creates the effect of a thermos, combines the functions of insulation and reflector, and does not allow water to pass through.

  1. Ruberoid - has a low cost, but due to its heavy weight it is inconvenient to install. It is good as an addition to insulation, but when heated it emits bad smell fused resin.
  2. Parchment is harmless, does not emit odors, but has low strength. During installation, it often breaks, which cannot but affect the quality of waterproofing.
  3. Polyethylene film is the most common and inexpensive way protection from moisture. Despite its large dimensions, it is light in weight and has a flexible structure, which greatly facilitates installation when covering large areas.
  4. Foil does not allow water to pass through. Adds additional points to the insulation coefficient and creates the effect of a thermos.

When combining several types waterproofing materials and the absence of joints, high-quality vapor barrier and protection against premature rotting of wood is obtained when insulating a frame bath. Heat-resistant silicone sealants are used to seal the resulting seams.

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Choosing insulation for a frame bath

When choosing insulation materials, you should focus on their behavior when exposed to high temperatures and high humidity, and not on their thermal insulation characteristics. This is due to the fact that when the bath or steam room is heated, substances harmful to health will be released.

The following materials are currently on the market:

  1. Synthetic materials - foam boards, polyurethane foam or polystyrene foam. Plates or roll version mineral wool or ecowool. All options are light in weight, which cannot but facilitate their installation.
  2. Reed slabs - have good characteristics as thermal insulators, fireproof and lightweight. Dimensions and thickness vary depending on the manufacturer.
  3. Sawdust mixed with gypsum, cement or clay - the proportions are the same for all options - 10 to 1. A very inexpensive option, but it should be used with caution and not in all parts of the bathhouse.

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Installation of the insulating layer is carried out according to the following scheme:

  • a vapor barrier layer is laid on the ceiling boards;
  • insulation with a thickness of at least 15 cm is installed;
  • laid on joists outer skin from boards on top of insulation.

If polystyrene foam or similar insulation is used in one layer, then the joints must be foamed with polyurethane foam. When laying insulation in several rows, it is necessary to ensure that the seams of the layers do not coincide. When using sawdust mixture, it must be evenly distributed over the entire surface of the ceiling, filling all existing cavities.

What to do with the stove when insulating a frame bath. An additional fire-resistant brick screen must be laid between the stove and the wall. This measure will protect the insulation and finishing from heating and possible damage. On this section of the wall the best insulation will become asbestos slabs. For finishing, you can use gypsum products, which can be glued using heat-resistant glue or mortar.

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Insulating the floor of a frame bath

This is the most important and costly stage in the process of insulating a bathhouse. In those parts of the bathhouse where washing is not provided, you can only get by with expanded clay bedding, insulation and a double layer of waterproofing. But this is not a very suitable option, since there are different situations. Open access to water and the absence of drains, even in such rooms, can lead to premature rotting of the wooden parts of the floor.

The best option– add to this structure on top of the waterproofing concrete screed and arrange a slope on it for water to drain. In the dry rooms of the bathhouse, a frame is built on top of the concrete screed, and then boards are laid. In rooms for direct washing, floor tiles and rubber bath mats can be laid on the concrete screed.

You can also arrange a wooden floor, but the boards are laid with small gaps so that water can easily pass to the drain and does not linger on the surface. For convenience when walking, solid or cellular rubber mats are laid on the floor.

Everyone knows that the floor in a bathhouse should be moisture-resistant, rot-resistant and warm, but only builders have an idea of ​​how to make high-quality insulation of this part of the structure so that the surface meets the other requirements of this room. This is especially true for a frame bath. We will tell you how to make such a floor with your own hands. By carefully following our instructions and the process description from the video, you will get a comfortable floor that dries quickly between procedures, is strong and durable.

Installation of logs


As a rule, a frame bath is built on a columnar foundation or piles. To connect the load-bearing elements of the base into one whole, a wooden or metal grillage is used. For a bathhouse on stilts, grillages made of steel channels or I-beams are more suitable.

First of all, the installation of a floor in a bathhouse begins with the construction of its frame, that is, the laying of logs. If you decide to build a bathhouse on stilts with a metal grillage, then on top of it you need to fix a bench made of wooden beam section 150x50 mm. It is easier to attach logs to it. The construction of the floor of a frame bath on a columnar foundation begins with laying a wooden grillage from beams with a cross-section of 150x50 mm. Not only are the logs attached to it, it is also the basis for the walls.

Depending on the dimensions of the bathhouse, intermediate beams may be needed in wooden frame for laying lags. In addition, under intermediate beams and long logs you will need to arrange additional support pillars. They can be made from brick. The logs are attached to a wooden grillage and intermediate beams in increments of 40 cm.

Important: everything wooden structures treated with antiseptics and fire retardants. It is better to make the logs under the steam room and washing room from moisture-resistant larch wood.

Bathroom floor design


After the logs are installed, you can begin constructing the floor of the frame bath. If you decide to build a sauna with your own hands, keep in mind that the constructive floor cake must include the following layers:

  • subfloor made of 0.6 cm thick oriented strand boards;
  • waterproofing and wind protection coating (we will use Izospan “A”, but you can choose other materials);
  • a layer of thermal insulation (for floor insulation we use ecowool, you can use mineral wool);
  • a protective layer of oriented strand board 1.8 cm thick;
  • For effective insulation the floor of the frame bathhouse contains two layers of insulation (now for this purpose we will use extruded polystyrene foam 50 mm thick);
  • then follows a layer of vapor barrier (Izospan “D”);
  • after this, a reinforcing fiberglass mesh is laid;
  • then a floor heating system is installed;
  • cement-sand screed with reinforcement;
  • ceramic tiles laid with special glue.

If you are building a frame bathhouse on stilts or a columnar foundation with your own hands, you should take a closer look at the features of each layer of the structural floor pie.

Advice: keep in mind that it is necessary to properly insulate not only the floor of the frame bath, but also its walls, as well as the ceilings.

Floor construction


It doesn’t matter what kind of frame bath you build, on stilts or a columnar foundation, the floor insulation procedure follows the same sequence. Before you start building the floor, it is worth installing frame walls baths There is no need to insulate the walls yet, but it is better to install a moisture and wind barrier. The construction of the subfloor proceeds in the following sequence:

  1. We nail moisture-resistant OSB 0.6 cm thick to the bottom surface of the log. Under the washing room and steam room, small holes should be drilled in the slab for ventilation. Don't forget to make a hole for installation drain pipe under the washing room. As a result, you will get a design that resembles the letter “W”.
  2. The next stage of building the floor of a frame bathhouse with your own hands will be laying Izospan waterproofing. It will also serve as a windbreak. We lay the waterproofing on top of the joists so that it sag into the gaps between them and evenly covers the OSB sheathing. The joints of the waterproofing film are taped. Waterproofing is fixed to the joists by padding on top of them wooden slats section 50x30 mm.
  3. If you plan to make a stove in the bathhouse, then install a supply air vent in the place where it is supposed to be located in the floor between the joists. vent. For these purposes you can use steel pipe or an old ventilation duct.
  4. When the waterproofing is laid, you can insulate the bathhouse floor with your own hands. We do it using ecowool, laying slabs between the logs. Surface thermal insulation material should be flush with the top edge of the joist. At the stage of laying the insulation, do not forget to lay the drain pipe in washing room.

Advice: if there are recesses under the walls of the structure, then insulation must be installed there as well. However, it is difficult to lay ecowool slabs there, so you can lay them under the walls soft insulation Rockwool.

  1. Next, the floor is sewn over the logs with moisture-resistant oriented strand boards. In this case, it is important to ensure that the joining of the slabs falls on the logs. To fix the OSB between the joists and the bottom trim under the walls, it is worth attaching wooden blocks. We lay OSB with a gap of 0.2-0.3 cm between adjacent sheets. We attach them to the logs using self-tapping screws.
  2. When the waterproofing and the first layer of insulation are laid, you can make the second layer of insulation with your own hands. To do this, we lay sheets of extruded polystyrene foam 5 cm thick in a spaced pattern. In the place where the stove will be installed, laying thermal insulation material is not necessary.
  3. We waterproof the drain hole in the floor. To do this, we attach Izospan “D” film around the drain with double-sided tape. We install waterproofing using sealant, which is poured between the film and the pipe.
  4. A vapor barrier layer must be provided in the floor of a bathhouse on stilts and a columnar foundation. Its installation can be made using the Izospan “D” vapor barrier film. To do this, we attach it to sheets of polystyrene foam using a stapler. We lay the film with an overlap of 50 mm, sealing the joints with tape. To prevent rotting bottom trim We place the film on the walls to a height of 100-150 mm and connect it with the vapor barrier material of the walls.

Heated floor installation


The best option for insulating the floor of a bathhouse on stilts or a columnar foundation would be to install a heated structure. This will help evaporate moisture from the floor after the procedure, quickly dry the surface and provide additional protection against fungus and mold. If you plan to do the work yourself, then it is better to install heated floors using factory electrical systems. Such a floor should be installed in the steam room, relaxation room and washing room.

We work in this order:

  1. To facilitate the installation of electrical heating systems, a fiberglass reinforcing mesh with a cell size of 50x50 mm is laid on the vapor barrier material. We lay the mesh with a slight overlap and tie it together.
  2. We lay out the electric cable for heating on the floor in a “snail” or “snake”. We fix it to the grid.
  3. Then we install a warm floor sensor in the wall.
  4. We connect and connect all components of the system.
  5. After checking that the device is working properly, you can begin pouring the screed.

Bathroom floor screed


We make the screed from cement-sand mortar or ready-made dry construction mixture. Fiber fibers or construction reinforcing mesh can be used as reinforcement. The height of the screed is 3.0 cm. In the rest room and steam room we make the screed without a slope, and in the washing room we make the floor slope 10 degrees towards the drain hole. We work in this order:

  1. After laying out the reinforcing mesh on the floor, we install guide beacons (profiles for drywall). We place them on mortar piles and level them.
  2. Prepare the solution. We add plasticizers and fiber to the traditional cement-sand mixture.
  3. We lay the screed on the floor and level it according to the beacons using the rule.
  4. The next day we remove the beacons and fill the voids with solution. We rub the surface.
  5. During the first week, we spray the screed with water and cover it with film to protect it from cracking.
  6. After the screed has completely hardened, it can be primed and laid. ceramic tiles. For styling flooring We use special moisture-resistant glue.

However, even taking into account the excellent thermal insulation qualities of buildings erected according to frame technology, such baths will still require careful insulation. If you do not get rid of heat leaks, then bath procedures can noticeably lose their attractiveness.

How to insulate a frame bath?

When choosing the right insulation for a bath, should pay attention not only on the heat-insulating properties of the material in question, but also on the ability to withstand significant temperatures at high level humidity.

In addition, when calculating the insulation of a frame bath with your own hands, it is worth considering that heat-insulating materials for baths should not emit toxic substances when heated. Some relaxation of the requirements for fire safety and environmental friendliness can be made only for those insulation materials that will be used for exterior finishing.

In construction practice to improve the thermal insulation of baths it is customary to use several types of materials.

  1. Mineral wool boards. This material is formed by thin fibers obtained from the melt of either rocks or waste from the metallurgical industry. Since when a huge number of such fibers are intertwined, a significant amount of air remains between them, such slabs acquire excellent thermal insulation qualities.
  2. Moreover, since inorganic substances have a very high melting point, those formed with their use mineral wool slabs successfully resist even the strongest heat without losing their performance qualities. For the same reason, such slabs do not collapse and do not lose their heat-saving properties from the high humidity that is inevitable for any bath.

  3. Reed slabs. This natural material attractive for its environmental friendliness, as well as good thermal insulation qualities. The thickness of such slabs is 15 cm, which is very convenient when constructing frame walls.
  4. Sawdust-gypsum mixture. This insulation is made by mixing 10 parts of carefully dried sawdust with 1 part of gypsum or cement. The main advantage of this option is low cost coupled with good thermal insulation.
  5. Polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam and other foamed synthetic materials. The advantages of foamed synthetics include the following:
  • low cost;
  • light weight;
  • ease of cutting the material and its installation;
  • low thermal conductivity, guaranteeing excellent thermal insulation;
  • immunity to moisture.

However, all types of foamed synthetic insulation cannot be used on those structural elements of the bathhouse where exposure to high temperatures is likely. Therefore, they are used only for insulating bathhouses. walls located at some distance from the stove (washing department, dressing room, rest room).

Video about insulating a frame bath.

Protecting thermal insulation from moisture

Regardless of what material was chosen as a heat insulator for the walls of the bathhouse, in the process of filling the cells of its frame you will need also install a reliable vapor barrier. Without cutting off the insulation from the humid bath atmosphere, its material will condense water from the cooling steam. And this is fraught with the most negative consequences.

Firstly, wet insulation will significantly increase its thermal conductivity, which will mean rapid loss of heat from the premises into environment. Secondly, the porous insulator will dry for quite a long time. This can lead to mold and rotting of the bathhouse frame.

Therefore, during the construction of walls, the heat-insulating material should be sheathed with high-quality vapor barrier, such as the following can be used:

  • aluminium foil, capable of not only protecting the insulation from moisture, but also reflecting heat;
  • glassine, which is low cost and environmentally friendly;
  • polyethylene film.

You should not use the once popular roofing material in a bathhouse, since when heated it can emit an unpleasant odor, plus working with this material is not particularly easy.

When laying a vapor barrier, you must ensure that between the sheets of material there weren't even tiny gaps left. You can ensure tightness either using metallized tape or by overlapping adjacent panels.

Installation work for insulating bath walls

The insulation of a frame bathhouse with your own hands begins along with the construction of the walls of the structure, since when using this construction technology, the insulation also serves as a structural material. Layers of heat insulation are laid out between load-bearing elements bath frame, followed by laying a layer of vapor barrier on top of them.

As a result, a kind of pie is formed, in the central part of which there will be insulation, lined with a vapor barrier with inside and waterproofing - from the outside. The outer layers will be formed by decorative cladding inside the bathhouse and façade cladding on the outside. In this case, the casing will serve as both an additional thermal protection line and structural element, increasing the strength of the entire structure.

The best option is considered laying two layers of thermal insulation into the bath frame. Moreover, it is desirable that one layer is formed by tiled insulation, and the second by roll insulation. This solution is guaranteed to get rid of cracks. When laying insulation, you should pay attention that many materials have an internal and external side, which the manufacturer’s instructions will help you distinguish.

Features of wall insulation near the stove

Near the sauna stove, it will be necessary to organize additional protection of the insulation and wall frame from exposure to high temperatures. The traditional school of bath construction recommends using asbestos slabs and sheets as such protection.

However, there is an opinion that asbestos is very dangerous to human health, therefore it is best to opt for more modern options : basalt fabrics and needle-punched mats, isolon, etc. All these materials can withstand temperatures up to several hundred degrees, which is quite enough to ensure complete fire safety.

Fireproof protection can be installed in two ways:

  • on top of decorative trim;
  • directly onto the vapor barrier layer.

Use plastic film as a vapor barrier next to sauna stove unacceptable, since it can simply melt. The best option here is aluminum foil, sealed with heat-resistant foil tape for sealing.

Insulation of floor and ceiling

Heat loss in a frame bath can occur not only through the walls, but also through the ceiling and floor. Accordingly, installation of insulation will be required here too.

Thermal insulation of the floor is carried out at the stage of its arrangement. The sequence of actions here will be as follows:

  • a concrete screed base is poured onto the prepared and carefully compacted soil;
  • waterproofing made of roofing felt or dense polyethylene is installed;
  • thermal insulation material is laid;
  • a layer of top waterproofing is lined;
  • another layer of concrete screed is poured.

To increase the service life of a rough concrete floor, it is recommended to additionally treat it after hardening with some kind of waterproofing solution. This will not allow moisture to penetrate microcracks in the concrete and destroy not only the floor material itself, but also the thermal insulation.

Ceilings are insulated using, similar to laying thermal insulation material into the walls of a frame bath:

  • a vapor barrier is fixed to the ceiling;
  • insulation is installed;
  • another layer of vapor barrier is attached;
  • decorative trim is stuffed.

The only difference will be that, unlike wall insulation, where there should be no free space between the vapor barrier and the sheathing material, this space must be maintained on the ceiling. This will allow the decorative ceiling cladding to dry faster, which is exposed to intense exposure to heated steam during bath procedures.

In general, construction frame baths attractive not only because of its speed and relative cheapness. The advantages include There is also the opportunity to combine the stages of wall construction with the high-quality insulation necessary for any bathhouse. At the same time, it is very noteworthy that all the work on insulating a frame bath is not overly complicated and is quite accessible to do with your own hands.