In a private house      06/20/2020

Homemade cutting machine for metal disk. How to assemble a cutting disc machine for metal with your own hands. Making a cutting machine with your own hands

An indispensable tool in the home workshop, locksmith shop, on the construction site. Many industrial models of these tools are produced, but their price is sometimes not available not only to a private master, but also to a small enterprise. There is a way out - a cutting machine for metal with your own hands is not difficult to do. This requires only certain skills in working with a welding machine, bench tools, and some qualifications of an electrician. Of the materials, too, you will not need anything scarce, or not available for free sale.

For work you will need:

You will have to buy an electric motor with a power of 1.5-2 kW, single-phase or three-phase. In addition, you will need two pulleys, a shaft, bearings 204 or 205, a metal corner, sheet steel 2-4 mm thick. When all this is assembled, the actual manufacture of the machine begins.

You can make drawings yourself using material from the Internet, or use ready-made ones, for example, these. But experience shows that it is best to adapt the drawings to the materials that you have available. As a rule, DIY designs work best when you “customize” them for yourself. Naturally, in this case, certain rules and requirements that are put forward for a tool of increased danger, such as a cutting disc machine or a pendulum saw, both home-made and industrial, should be observed.

Most do-it-yourself cutting machines for metal belong to the pendulum type. more difficult to manufacture, but they can be made in a small workshop or metalworking shop. For now, let's focus on the most convenient type of cutting machine - a disk one. General design can be seen on the video.

It consists of several main nodes:

  • electric motor;
  • pendulum;
  • drive mechanism;
  • cutting disc;
  • desktop.

Let's consider them separately.

Engine

Depending on the required power of the metal-cutting machine and the scope of its use, we select the engine power. It should be in the range of 1.5-3kW. If you plan to use a cutting machine in a home workshop, a small metalworking workshop, where cutting a profile pipe, fittings, angle or other rolled metal is relatively rare, and thin-walled metal is used as blanks, one and a half kilowatts of power is enough. Small-scale production, construction site work, or frame making for any purpose will require a more powerful engine.

If there is a three-phase motor with a power of about 3 kilowatts, it can be connected to 220 volts using the place of the "star" circuit, the "triangle" circuit. But at the same time, it must be borne in mind that its power will decrease by 25-30%. The main thing is that the number of revolutions indicated on the nameplate will remain.

For installation on a cutting machine for metal, the engine must have a number of revolutions equal to 2500-3000 per minute. This is due to the fact that it is at such speeds that the cutting disc works optimally.

For a home-made cutting machine for metal, circles with a diameter of 300-400 millimeters are used. Here, too, it is necessary to proceed from the needs of production. Over too large diameter you should not chase the disc - the further the working edge is from the center, the less cutting force, and a more powerful engine will be required. The optimal ratio of engine power and disk diameter is 2 kilowatts at three thousand revolutions and 300 millimeters in diameter.

A self-made cutting machine for metal must first of all be safe. Cutting discs are marked maximum amount rpm at which they can be operated. As a rule, it should not exceed 4400 rpm. If you get more - the disk may be destroyed, which is unsafe. If the number of revolutions is less than 3000, then the cutting speed will be insufficient, and the disc will overheat and wear out. It is these figures that should be taken as the starting points for calculating the power transmission.

Drive unit

As a drive mechanism, it is most convenient to use a belt drive. To do this, you will have to find two pulleys of the same diameter. One of them is mounted on the motor shaft, the second - on the drive shaft of the cutting disc. The disc shaft is mounted on two bearings. It is best to use the scheme when the drive mechanism is located on the left of the disk mounting cloud. So it is more convenient to work, and safety rules are observed. The clamping nut of the disc will not be at risk of loosening.

To tension the drive belt, the engine is fixed at the back of the pendulum with 4 bolts located in the longitudinal slots. It can be displaced in the direction of the central axis of the machine (perpendicular to the axis of rotation of the motor shaft) by 5-7 centimeters. This will maintain proper belt tension and prevent belt slippage. It will also be easier to replace the belt if the previous one becomes unusable.

Console (pendulum)

The console part of the cutting machine for metal is one of the most important. In addition to the fact that it must be carefully balanced, securely welded in compliance with all the necessary dimensions, it must also move strictly perpendicular to the desktop. The base of the pendulum are two vertical racks with slots for the pendulum bushing (diameter 10-12 mm). It is best to make them from a steel square of 40x40 millimeters. The height is approximately 80-100 millimeters, but you can also calculate your own version.

A shaft-sleeve is horizontally installed in the holes of the racks, to which a rocker is welded, consisting of two levers, the ratio of which is one to three. A platform for the installation of an electric motor is welded on a short arm. Long arm drive shaft cutting wheel. The ratio of the length of the levers is approximate, it must be calculated so that in the non-working position the weight of the engine outweighs the weight of the assembled saw part (with protective covers). To bring the disk of the turned on machine into contact with the metal, it is necessary to apply a small but tangible force.

For ease of operation, a return spring is attached to the bottom of the engine platform, and the angle of deviation of the pendulum upwards is regulated by a cable or chain, fixed at one end to the table, and at the other - to the bottom of the long lever.

Desktop

The optimal dimensions are 700x1000x900 mm. It is welded from a corner of 25x25 mm and covered with a steel sheet 3-4 mm thick, in which slots are made in the disk rotation zone. A swivel stop and a clamp with a swivel clamp are fixed on the table. This allows you to cut both perpendicularly and at the required angle. A very interesting version of a homemade machine is shown in the video. Here it is not the workpiece that turns, but the console with the disk and the engine.

Mount cutting machine disk type for a qualified locksmith is not particularly difficult. It is important to adhere to some fundamental requirements:

  • correctly calculate the speed of rotation of the disk;
  • adjust the angle of rotation, it must be strictly perpendicular to the plane of the desktop;
  • set the force of feeding the disk into the cutting zone;
  • install an emergency stop button on the handle;
  • equip the cutting machine with protective covers for the disc and rotating parts.

From this article you can learn how to make a cutting machine for metal with your own hands at home using the most simple materials. Here are detailed all the stages of creating structures, which are based on cutting disc or grinder: preparation of materials and tools, calculation formulas, detailed step-by-step instruction, as well as related information with useful tips.

Disc cutting machines are tools based on a special platform or frame made of metal. The machine itself is equipped with parts that ensure reliable fixation of the material in a certain position at the required angle in the process of cutting it. As a cutting element in such designs, a disk made of high-speed steel is used. It is also called carbide. It can also be used for cutting metal with a coated abrasive material. The cutting element is driven by electric motor with belt or gear drive.

Note! In low-power versions of the tool, it is allowed to use a cutting element mounted directly on the shaft of an electric motor. In other cases, such use of the disc can be dangerous.

Disc machines have three different feeds of the cutting component:

  • lower;
  • pendulum;
  • frontal.

By the number of cutting elements, machines are:


Making a disk cutting machine for metal with your own hands: procedure

In the manufacture of a machine designed to work with metal, the actions are performed in the following order:


Calculation of a pulley for a homemade cutting machine for metal

The calculation of the pulley diameter is carried out taking into account the rotational speed of the disk and other parameters. If we assume that the motor power is at least 300 W, the rotational speed of the disk will be at least 3000 rpm, and its size in diameter will be 40 cm.

Helpful advice! In the process of cutting metal, the nut in the disc fixation area can be turned away. To avoid this, it is recommended to place the drive pulleys on the left side, and the disk itself on the shaft on the right.

Typically, discs are marked by the manufacturer, who puts on the product the maximum allowable rotational speed. In this case, the indicator is 4400 rpm. Therefore, it is allowed to select any speed within the range of 3000-4400 rpm. Data for calculations:

  • rotational speed of the motor - 1500 rpm;
  • the diameter of the pulley intended for installation on the shaft is 6.5 cm;
  • rotational speed of the disk - 3000 rpm.

The calculation is performed in the following sequence:

  1. Set the length of the shaft around the perimeter. To do this, the number π, which is equal to 3.14, is multiplied by the size of the diameter: 3.14 x 6.5 = 20.41 cm (shaft length around the perimeter).
  2. The resulting value is multiplied by required amount revolutions: 20.41 x 3000 rpm. = 61230 cm/min.
  3. The result must be divided by the number of engine revolutions: 61230 cm / min / 1500 rpm. = 40.82 cm (motor pulley length around the perimeter).
  4. The resulting value is divided by the number π: 40.82 cm / 3.14 \u003d 13 cm (required pulley size).

Calculation of the length of the belt for a homemade cutting machine for metal with your own hands

To perform these calculations, you will need the following data:

  • drive pulley parameters (radius);
  • the distance separating the center points of the pulleys;
  • driven pulley parameters (radius).

Having 2 pulleys with dimensional parameters of 13 cm and 6.5 cm, it is possible to produce necessary calculations. Since the distance between the centers of these elements can be changed (because it is necessary to bring the belt into a state of tension), a 50 cm long segment will be taken as an example.

Now you need to calculate 1/2 of the circumference of each of the pulleys. Since the drive belt runs between them twice, double the distance between the center points must be added to this value. First pulley (circumference):

3.14 (pi number) x 3.25 cm = 10.20 cm

Second pulley (circumference):

3.14 (pi number) x 6.5 cm = 20.41 cm

Drive belt (required length):

20.41 cm + 10.20 cm + 50 cm x 2 = 13.06 cm

Helpful advice! To get a more accurate result, you should make calculations with the maximum and minimum distance between the center points of the pulleys and choose an average meaning.

Drawing of a pendulum-type cutting machine: on the left - the dimensions of the base, on the right - the design features of the pendulum

To independently make the design of the machine for working with metal, you should prepare the necessary tools.

Mandatory set of tools and materials includes:

  • welding machine;
  • metal corner (steel);
  • channel and chain;
  • button to turn on / off;
  • bearings;
  • shaft and electric motor;
  • electric drill;
  • sheet steel to create a working surface;
  • a box for placing the electrical components of the machine.

The principles of creating a machine for cutting metal

The manufacturing scheme for a home-made machine is subject to certain principles, they must be taken into account before getting down to business:


  • selection of the optimal cutting angle. The allowable range is within 45-90°. In most cases, experts prefer cutting at right angles;
  • the diameter of the cutting disc is selected taking into account what materials the master will work with on this machine in the future. The larger the diameter of the cutting element, the easier it will be to cope with cutting thick metal;
  • when designing and drawing up drawings, such indicators as the dimensions of the future machine and its weight must be taken into account. These values ​​are directly affected by the materials from which the equipment will be made. The layout of parts also matters.

When drawing up drawings Special attention should be given to vibration mounts that are installed on the legs.

Assembling a metal frame for a cutting machine

After all the tools are prepared and the drawings are selected, you can go directly to the process of creating the machine. Using a steel corner, it is necessary to make frame part designs. In accordance with the drawings, which can be compiled independently or found on the network, frame elements are cut out. All of them are interconnected by welding. First you need to check the conformity of the sizes.

A channel is welded to the upper part of the frame - it will become a guide element and will serve as the basis for further installation of the cutting component on the machine. This channel will become a kind of link between the electric motor and the cutting element. After that, vertically arranged racks are fixed on it with bolts. You will need to weld the design of another frame. Dimensional parameters are selected individually, taking into account the dimensions of the electric motor and its features. When choosing an electric motor for a machine, it is better to pay attention to modifications of the asynchronous type. This type of equipment is characterized by increased reliability and durability. There is one subtlety when choosing a motor. The more powerful the engine, the smoother the drive will be.

Assembly of the electrical component for the machine

Installation of equipment involves the installation and connection of the working shaft to the electric motor of the machine. The way in which this can be done is not critical. If the drawings contain instructions for performing this procedure, it is better to follow it, since the quality of the installation depends right job and instrument reliability.

Helpful advice! Some parts that you can’t make yourself can be ordered from a turner. These include flanges for fixing, as well as a pulley.

To fix the motor on a metal frame, it is better to use a bolted connection with nuts. Not far from the engine, it is recommended to place a box where the switch and electrical circuit are located, as well as a remote control for controlling the tool. The channel, designed to fix the cutting disc, is best placed on a spring. You need to make sure that when you release it, it returns to its original place. To fix the spring, you can take bolts and a clamp. The electrical component is the most important part of the tool. Be sure to include in the design a chain for starting, as well as a button for emergency shutdown of the machine. It is necessary to achieve such an arrangement of parts in which the electric motor will be connected to electricity through an automatic machine and a box, and not directly. A three-way starting machine will be enough to turn on and fully start the engine. It will also power the off button. Finally, it is worth taking care of the presence of protective devices that will protect a person in the process of work. To do this, you need to make a protective cover. It will prevent sparks and small metal particles from getting into the eyes.

Making a cutting machine from a grinder with your own hands: drawings, technology

The designs of cutting machines made on the basis of a grinder are of two types (depending on the location of the grinder). In the first case, a bed is obtained on which the angle grinder is very rigidly fixed. Above working surface only the disk rises, for which there is a special slot in the table. Such a machine operates on the principle of a circular saw.

Note! In the process of working with such a machine, you have to move the workpiece yourself, because of which the accuracy of work is lost. In addition, this process can be unsafe, so drawings with a hidden type of grinder placement are not in high demand.

The second option assumes that the workpiece remains stationary, and the cutting element moves. Due to the fact that the grinder is located on top of the countertop, cutting parts does not require serious effort.

List of tools and materials for a do-it-yourself cutting machine from a grinder

When making a tool yourself, it should be borne in mind that the accuracy with which it will work depends largely on the stability of the structure. For this reason, the thickness of materials for manufacturing is associated not so much with the requirements for the strength of the machine body, but with the need to ensure the proper level of rigidity. List of materials:

  • profiled pipe with a square section (2.5x2.5x0.25 cm);
  • sheet steel (sheet thickness 0.4-0.5 cm);
  • profiled pipe with a rectangular section (4x2x0.25 cm);
  • ball bearings - 2 pcs. (No. 203, 204 or 202);
  • calibrated bar no more than 10 cm (thickness is selected taking into account the hole on the inner race of the bearing);
  • metal bar (diameter 0.8-1 cm);
  • fasteners (bolts with nuts, thread M or M8);
  • metal tire (2x0.4 cm).

List of tools:

  • angle grinder;
  • electric drill (can be replaced with a drilling machine);
  • set of drills;
  • a set of dies designed to form a metal thread;
  • apparatus for welding;
  • wrenches.

Choosing the right cutting tool for a homemade cutting machine from a grinder

Angle grinder is the main node of the machine for working with metal. Experts do not recommend using a small tool for these purposes, which has a power of no more than 500-600 watts. In such grinders, cutting discs have a diameter of no more than 12.5 cm. These limitations are due to the fact that a cutting element with a large diameter is considered universal and very reliable - it is able to cope with cutting thick workpieces.

Helpful advice! Instead of welding to fix parts, threaded connections can be used, however, they are less reliable and will not be able to provide the required level of strength.

It is also necessary to carefully approach the choice of an angle grinder because there is a wide variety of designs on the market. Since this power tool is not completely unified, the construction of the machine will be carried out for a certain modification and dimensions of the angular grinder. If the machine breaks down, installing another angle grinder can be not only problematic, but also impossible. We'll have to redo the pendulum and all fasteners. Therefore, it is worth choosing a tool from the range of large and already proven companies, for example, Bosch or Makita.

Cutting machine drawings: how to make a cutting tool from a grinder

On preparatory stage design and drawing up drawings. There are no uniform sizes for the reason that the design of each machine is subject to a specific model of the cutting tool. Ready-made drawings, of which there are many on the network, can be adjusted to fit the grinder. They allow you to navigate in relation to what will be the structure of the structure, its dimensions.

Drawing up a drawing is better to start with the body part. In some cases, it may be necessary to build a separate platform instead of a frame. Such a platform will be fixed on locksmith workbench. Next, the dimensions and nature of the location of the key elements on the machine are determined. It is necessary to measure the center distances between the mounting holes located on the gearbox, as well as measure the grinder itself. All this data is used to draw up drawings. After the mounts for the pendulum and grinder are designed, the swivel assembly is developed.

Helpful advice! The accuracy and rigidity of the machine depends on the distance between the cutting element and the swivel joint. The smaller this gap, the better. It is recommended to install a pendulum with a minimum length.

After drawing up the drawings, it remains only to select the materials, calculate their quantity and proceed with the construction.

Technology for creating a cutting machine from a grinder

The manufacturing technology of a metal cutting machine based on a grinder is almost the same as in the case of a cutting disc:

  1. Preparation and manufacture of parts for the frame.
  2. The arrangement of the swivel on the pendulum lever.
  3. Production of a U-shaped bracket with holes for mounting the gearbox of a grinding machine.
  4. Making a U-shaped clamp and a strap that will fix the body of the grinder on the pendulum.
  5. Mounting the U-clamp and the U-bracket to the cutting tool: by welding or threaded connection all these parts are attached to the console part.
  6. Pressing bearings into bearings.
  7. Double-sided pressing of bearing assemblies onto the shaft. To increase the strength of the connection, you can tin the axis with a thin layer of tin using a soldering iron.
  8. Fixing the pendulum with the supporting nodal parts on the edge of the platform (indentation from the edge 0.5-0.6 cm) using a welding machine.
  9. Installation of the grinder and protective casing.
  10. Mounting the return spring.

After the structure is assembled, it is necessary to perform a test run and check the correct operation of the equipment, as well as the placement of all parts on it. On final stage the groove is adjusted to the cutting element, supports are installed to secure the workpieces. When finishing is completed, the body of the machine must be covered with a thin layer of enamel. Staining will protect the instrument from damage that rust can cause.

It is much easier, safer and more comfortable to perform the process of cutting metal and metal structures using machine tools than using hand tools and tools. But not every amateur can make a quality machine.

This is the reason why many prefer to design such mechanisms with their own hands, using what is in everyday life, for example, saws or grinders.

Why are cutting machines needed?

Summer cottages always require minor repairs: replace a dilapidated greenhouse rack from time to time, make a fence for land plot from metal, repair a garden wheelbarrow or cart - cutting metal at a right angle or with a bevel is always needed. It is easier and more efficient to make blanks for any metal products using the machine tool.

With the help of cutting machines, you can cut any materials: steel, cast iron, copper. Cutting is done at 45º and 90º angles. You can make products from pipes of all diameters with your own hands. As a rule, cutting mechanisms are used for cutting semi-finished products into fixed lengths.

Metal equipment can also be used for processing other materials, while eliminating the operation of the cutter. The do-it-yourself machine is compact, it is possible to install it under a canopy, and in winter time rearrange it to working room.

You need a flat and hard surface with lighting. A similar corner can be found on the site of any structure. All-welded and collapsible equipment designs are used. In order to reduce manufacturing costs, the device can be periodically given to neighbors for temporary use.

Cutting machine device

Any work that is associated with metal or wood requires a cutting process, for which special cutting equipment is used. The application of this device is incredibly extensive: from everyday needs and life, to large plants and factories.

It should be noted that machines of this type are mechanisms that will allow you to perform transverse cutting of metal.

Cutting machines can cut parts from any type of metal: from copper and PVC profiles, to large steel billets. Semi-finished products can be cut under straight and sharp corners. Using a cutting machine, it is possible to cut pipes of large and medium diameters.

The most important mechanism of the apparatus, its "soul", is an electric motor and a working body - a cutting wheel, which are connected to each other by means of gear or belt drives. Each of these types has its own merits. For example, belt inherent easy running, resistant to various types loads, less noisy. It can be mounted even on a massive cutting machine.

The gear train is oversized, and due to this feature it is suitable for a miniature home-made cutting unit. Therefore, in the process of buying a cutting mechanism, you need to look at the type of gear used.

Almost every type of machine is equipped with abrasive wheels, but sometimes there are mechanisms on which a carbide disc is installed. Moreover, all such metal saws are equipped with a vice that securely fixes the product or semi-finished product.

Video: homemade cutting machine from a grinder.

Homemade cutting machine for metal: manufacturing instructions

The machine, which is made by one's own hands, has an undeniable advantage: it is made to the requirements of a particular master and products planned for further production. For work you will need:

  • 24th corner;
  • 10th channel;
  • pipes;
  • welder;
  • rolling bearings;
  • electric drive;
  • capacity for mounting the electrical circuit;
  • start toggle switch;
  • starting circuit;
  • winding;
  • drill.

Assembly progress:

  1. From the corner No. 24 and using the angle grinder, cut the blanks onto the frame with your own hands, its dimensions are 400x600x1200 mm;
  2. Using a welding machine, workpieces are welded together;
  3. Channel No. 10 is welded as a guide, which at the same time will give strength to the entire structure.
  4. Using screws, two vertical supports are fixed to the channel;
  5. Using pipes, make a frame 400x600 mm for subsequent mounting of the electric drive and shaft at the required angle;
  6. On the "tail" part of the frame there is a plate with a fixed electric motor. It is advisable to use an asynchronous motor, as it is unpretentious. Depending on the future purpose, you can give preference to the motor, the power of which will be in the range of 1.5 ... 3 kW and perform “powering” from a three-phase network. If it is possible to use only a 1-phase network, select a motor 1/3 more power than the calculated value, it is connected using capacitors;
  7. With help lathe, make the shaft and flanges, pulley and supports. The flange must protrude 30.32 mm.
  8. Install the support bearings and pulley;
  9. The installation of the box with the wiring diagram is carried out directly in the lower area of ​​the frame.
  10. A 12 mm shaft is attached between the racks, on which the sleeve is put on. The distance between the shaft and the sleeve must be kept as small as possible and a sliding fit must be ensured.
  11. A rocker arm from the 10th channel (L = 800 mm) is welded onto the bushing using a welding machine, the ratio of the arms of the rocker arm is 1 to 3. Its stroke is limited by a chain.
  12. An electric motor is installed on the area of ​​the short section of the rocker, and a cutting mechanism is installed on the long component.
  13. A belt drive is laid from the electric motor to the shaft.

Capacity price for electrical circuit, made by hand, will be slightly lower compared to those bought in hardware store. To extend power to the equipment, a three-pole circuit breaker is needed, from which power is drawn to the electric motor, an emergency stop button and a starting circuit.

The emergency button is connected directly, the electric motor is connected using a box and an automatic machine. This will ensure complete safety and electrical protection of the equipment you have made.

Based on the foregoing, making a cutting mechanism with your own hands is not only cheaper, but also more practical, since in the process of its manufacture you yourself adjust its parameters and adjust it for its future work.

Also, having done such a procedure once, you can repair such equipment without any problems. Moreover, if necessary, you can earn money by making cutting equipment with your own hands.

Video: do-it-yourself homemade cutting machine for metal.

Section: Machine tools and tools

The purpose of our work will be the manufacture of a cutting machine with our own hands. There is no need to describe how useful and necessary such equipment is in the work of any craftsman. and just in business.

We will start manufacturing from a frame-frame, its overall dimensions are 700 * 1000 * 900 mm.

A corner of 25 * 25 mm will perfectly serve as a material for the frame, we cut the workpiece with a grinder and weld it. We weld channel No. 10 to the upper plane of the frame at a distance of 70 mm from the edge, to which, in turn, two vertical posts from a 40 * 40 mm square are attached with bolts.

The uprights are connected by a #216 12mm shaft with a clad sleeve (to avoid end movement of the disc, the shaft-hub connection is made with a sliding fit with minimal clearance). A rocker arm from the same channel No. 10 with a size of 800 mm is welded to this bushing, and in such a way that the shoulders are related as 1: 3.

An electric motor is mounted on a smaller part of the rocker arm, and a working shaft is mounted on the larger part, the transmission of movement will be carried out using a belt drive.

Now about the electric motor. Preference should be given to asynchronous motors, as more reliable and durable. Practice shows that for normal operation with a cutting disc # 216 400 mm, a "three thousand" with a power of 2.2 kW, powered by a three-phase network, is ideal. A thousand and a half will do, but gear ratio belt drive must be selected so that the shaft is about 6000 rpm. In case of power supply from single-phase network. engine power should be increased by 30% and run and start capacitors should be used.

We order the working shaft with supports, flanges for the disk and a pulley for the “A” type belt to the turner, and the flange protrusion should be # 216 32 mm. In this case, it will be possible to install both a cutting disc and a saw blade for wood on the machine. Both motor and shaft are attached to the shaft with M10 bolts and nuts.

The rocker stroke is limited by the chain, and springs are installed on the engine side to facilitate the return (for example, from a sports expander). Chains and springs are fastened with bolts.

The table is made from a planed board 40-50 mm, and covered with plywood or USB to level out small irregularities.

And further important point . When installing the shaft, install the saw blade and carefully check the perpendicularity of the planes of the blade and table. If necessary, the position of the shaft must be leveled by using shims on the shaft bearing supports.

And finally, the last. DO NOT FORGET to provide disk protection.

The drive is running high speed, abrasive and metal particles can fly out, and in the case of using a saw blade with carbide tips, the latter can fly out. Disk protection is a must!

What is needed for a cutting machine

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Do-it-yourself cutting machine from a grinder - convenience and practicality!

Bulgarian is a very useful and versatile tool. With it, you can cut metal, stone, tiles and, of course, grind surfaces, but sometimes it is much easier and more accurate to perform these works. stationary machine. Fortunately, you can make a cutting machine from a grinder with your own hands!

Homemade grinder machine - pros and cons

If you have to hold an angle grinder in your hands often enough, you probably managed to feel its disadvantages. The weak points of the tool stem from its main advantage - mobility. Firstly, it is not always possible to fix parts during cutting, and their slightest vibration can lead to destruction. abrasive disc which in turn can lead to serious injury.

Secondly, it is rather difficult to control a clear perpendicularity of the cut with a mobile version of the tool, take into account the thickness of the disk in relation to the mark and the material being cut, and even hold it if necessary. Thirdly, it is quite difficult to cut several parts of the same size with a tool, especially when it comes to twigs and small pipes - after cutting, you also have to trim the parts.

And, of course, the employment of both hands and the utmost tedious concentration during work, since the angle grinder is one of the most dangerous tools. What is only worth a kickback - a sudden rejection of the tool when the rotating abrasive disc is jammed in the workpiece. The danger of kickback lies not so much in the rejection of the tool as in the concomitant destruction of the circle. At such high speeds, fragments of abrasive can seriously injure the operator.

Especially often, a kickback occurs at the end of the cut, when only a small jumper connects the parts. In this case, it is recommended to stop the tool without cutting the workpiece to the end, remove the circle and cut the part with reverse side. A cutting machine, which can be constructed with your own hands from fairly affordable materials, is able to solve all of these problems and provide additional security.

Making a cutting machine - an easy option

Find finished machine on the shelves of the store, satisfying at first glance your needs - a fairly simple task. But there is hardly a design that is completely made with all the requirements, because the requirements are different for everyone! In such cases, the owners of the machines are trying to improve or remake them, but they face very serious obstacles - either the manufacturers made the machine from alloys that are very difficult to work with by welding, or they did not take into account the little things that you need specifically - for example, an accurate ruler or a more elastic spring. Remaking someone else's is much more difficult than making your own!

Simplest homemade machine for a small grinder with your own hands, you can do it at a minimum cost and in just a few hours! The finished structure will be a long metal pipe that acts both as a frame and as a handle. Closer to one end, a transverse metal bar with two holes for fastening the grinder is welded.

On the same side, the pipe is attached to one side of a small piece of the corner on the movable shaft, while the corner itself is attached on the other side either to the desktop, or just to the floor in the garage! On the opposite side of the mount, it is important to fix the spring, which will allow the entire structure to return to its original position. That's all - the machine is ready, you just need to properly fix the grinder. Of course, this option is for the most simple jobs, for more accurate and complex procedures, it is necessary to make a more complex design.

Do-it-yourself cutting machine from a grinder - for precise work!

To make a cutting machine, you will need the following materials and tools: steel corner, profile pipe, a sheet of metal for a platform (or a lighter chipboard version), a welding machine, a channel, a drill, a shaft, several identical bearings, a small diameter pipe, a spring, as well as a relay and a pedal. Welding, if you think about it, can be replaced with strong bolts - that's what you need a drill for. By the way, this option will allow everything else to disassemble the machine if necessary.

How to make a cutting machine from a grinder with your own hands - step by step diagram

Step 1: Details and Drawing

The manufacture of the machine should begin with cutting parts onto the frame. To prevent damage to expensive material, carefully study the numerous drawings that can be found on the Internet or follow the models on the shelves. In the latter case, draw up a drawing yourself, for this you do not need special skills - the main thing is to present the finished structure and its proportions on paper. Each angle grinder needs its own drawing, because tools from different manufacturers can radically differ - somewhere you can remove the handle, somewhere you will have to come up with a stand for the whole grinder! Plus, under different sizes disk needs a different frame.

Step 2: Frame

The simplest frame consists of two frames on a common axis. The lower frame should be fixed on a platform - metal or chipboard. If the grinder is large, it is better to use metal. The upper frame, to which the grinder is screwed, must rotate vertically relative to the lower one, like a pendulum. A spring is needed to fix the starting position. A mount is welded to the lower frame, which consists of a clamping angle and a movable clamp.

Step 3: Ruler

It is very important to provide measuring details in the machine, thanks to which you can cut workpieces with an accuracy of up to 1 mm. In this case, a movable ruler with a limiter welded to the tube is best suited. After setting the exact size with it and fixing it with an end screw, you can get to work!

Step 4: Electronics

For convenience of work, provide in the design a starting pedal or a button with switching through a low-voltage relay of 12 V. Through it, voltage will be supplied to the angle grinder. With the help of such a simple design, we free our hands, achieve an accurate even cut without the use of a vice, and save time on accurate measurements. This tool will replace cut-off saw for metal, and if necessary, you can always return the angle grinder to its mobile state.

Do-it-yourself machine for a grinder - safety is paramount!

When working with a grinder, stationary or manual, safety must always be remembered. In the case of the stationary version, you need to take into account the direction of the tool and the position of the guard - it is important that the guard completely hides the area in which the operator is located. If you have a machine, you will probably have a desire to use the tool for other purposes - for example, attach a saw blade for wood to the angle grinder, which is absolutely impossible to do!

Wood is a heterogeneous material, it can contain knots or even nails. The rotational speed of the grinder significantly exceeds the prescribed speed of a standard sawmill, which will very quickly lead to saw blade into disrepair.

But, in addition, unlike abrasive and grinding discs, saw blades have sharp teeth that pose a high danger. Risking your health for a quick cut is simply unwise. After installing the tool and a new disc, the work of the grinder should be checked for at least 1 minute at idle - the circle should rotate completely freely, without excessive vibration, without touching the casing.

Leave the solution for 5-6 hours. Then the foam will separate and rise up, and liquid will remain below. It is necessary to carefully drain this liquid and smear the picture with it in several layers. After each layer, the painting must dry completely. Then you can hang a picture and forget about it for half a year or a year. Then the picture should be washed with water. After that, you can safely cover the picture with varnish.

How to pour sugar into a glass: In order to pour sugar into a glass, you need to take a spoon, scoop it up, bring it to the cup and pour it out! ?

Do-it-yourself cutting machine from a grinder

Milling Machine DIY Drawings

Video how to make a cutting machine for metal from a grinder

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If you have to hold an angle grinder in your hands often enough, you probably managed to feel its disadvantages.

The weak points of the tool stem from its main advantage - mobility. Firstly, it is not always possible to fix the parts during cutting, and their slightest vibration can lead to the destruction of the abrasive disc, which in turn is fraught with serious injuries.

Secondly, it is rather difficult to control a clear perpendicularity of the cut with a mobile version of the tool, take into account the thickness of the disk in relation to the mark and the material being cut, and even hold it if necessary.

Thirdly, it is quite difficult to cut several parts of the same size with a tool.. especially when it comes to twigs and small pipes - after cutting, you also have to trim the details.

And, of course, the employment of both hands and the utmost tedious concentration during work, since the angle grinder is one of the most dangerous tools.

What is only worth a kickback - a sudden rejection of the tool when the rotating abrasive disc is jammed in the workpiece. The danger of kickback lies not so much in the rejection of the tool as in the concomitant destruction of the circle. At such high speeds, fragments of abrasive can seriously injure the operator.

Especially often, a kickback occurs at the end of the cut, when only a small jumper connects the parts.

In this case, it is recommended to stop the tool without cutting the workpiece to the end, remove the wheel and cut the part from the back side. A cutting machine, which can be constructed with your own hands from fairly affordable materials, is able to solve all of these problems and provide additional security.

2 Making a cutting machine - a simple option

Related videos

Finding a ready-made machine on store shelves that meets your needs at first glance is a fairly simple task.

But there is hardly a design that is completely made with all the requirements, because the requirements are different for everyone! In such cases, the owners of the machines are trying to improve or remake them, but they face very serious obstacles - either the manufacturers made the machine from alloys that are very difficult to work with by welding, or they did not take into account the little things that you need specifically - for example, an accurate ruler or a more elastic spring.

Remaking someone else's is much more difficult than making your own!

Cutting machine from grinder

Having worked a lot as a grinder, I came to the conclusion that it is possible to operate this useful tool more efficiently.

And here's what I came up with.

■ It is difficult to cut multiple parts of the same length from small pipes, rods, etc.

It takes extra time to trim, and each time you have to set a new mark.

■ It is necessary to constantly control the perpendicularity of the cut, take into account the thickness of the disk in relation to the tube and the mark, so that there is no error.

■ Vibration of the workpiece during cutting leads to the destruction of the disc in a matter of seconds.

By transferring a hand tool to the category of a stationary one, I eliminated the listed shortcomings.

The machine consists of two frames on a common axis (photo 1, 2).

The lower one was rigidly fixed on a chipboard plate (Fig. 1).

403 Forbidden

The upper one, with a bolted grinder B, rotates vertically, like a pendulum, relative to the lower (Fig. 2). The initial position of the tool is fixed by a tension spring.

To lower the cutting disc, I press the handle of the grinder down. When released, the cutting part returns.

A collapsible attachment unit is welded to the lower frame, consisting of a movable clamp and a pressure bracket (photo 3).

Below is a movable measuring ruler with a limiter welded to the tube.

Having locked the bar with an end screw, I only set the size once (with an accuracy of 1 mm), after which I cut the required number of absolutely identical parts of any size - up to the rings.

I start the machine with a switching pedal through a low-voltage relay (12 V), which, with its powerful contacts, supplies 220 V to B. Accordingly, neither the pedal nor the wire on the ground, even if the insulation is damaged, poses a danger to humans.

I install, remove and fix B with the help of a clamp that is used on top covers boxes for storage and transportation of equipment (type of lining). The weight and dimensions of the machine allow it to be transported in a car box.

Advantages of development

■ No vice required

■ Gets a very even cut

■ Pedal frees hands

DIY cutting machine

I plan to cook the frame of the stairs to the second floor and for maximum accuracy of cuts at an angle, a cutting machine is needed.

I began to look closely at them, but for some reason the prices are not very childish, and in the economy in the future it will have little use. At the insistence of the respondents, the option with the installation of a cutting wheel for metal in miter saw on wood, was discarded.

I decided to pay attention to the fixtures for grinders.

Watched different variants, the price is from 300 to 600 thousand, but in all I did not like the longitudinal play.

Because of this backlash, there can be a run-up in the angle of up to 5 degrees. Nah such happiness? After some thought, I decided to pile myself such an adapter on my own. It's a pity to throw 300 thousand on him.

What I needed:

* grinder

* welding machine

* clamps

From materials, used iron was used, 3 bolts f 16 were bought for fastening the grinder and friends prompted the carriage from the bicycle.

As a result, personal time was spent - it is priceless

4800 for three bolts from speculators

10,000 for cutting wheels

Well, with a dozen electrodes and a couple of kilowatts of electricity.

After the wallpaper has been glued: After wallpapering the walls in the room, do not leave the room to ventilate, as the pasted wallpaper will begin to fall off or become covered.

Keeping nails close at hand: Sometimes we put nails or screws in our mouths, in our pockets, or simply in our hands. It is much better to hang a magnet around your neck. On it, they will be securely held in any quantity and hands and mouth will be free

Homemade vulcanizer - manufacturing and application

If you have a punctured tire, the easiest option is to go to a tire shop. However, there are many who like to do everything themselves, and tire fitting is not always nearby. Sometimes the costs associated with contacting a tire service (road, time, the procedure itself) result in a substantial amount, especially if you have to use this service often.

In general, for various reasons, for those who wish to repair damage at home, I offer several options making a homemade vulcanizer With minimal cost. With the help of a home-made vulcanizer, for example, made from an iron, you can quickly and reliably repair cars, motorcycles and bicycle cameras, air mattresses, heating pads, various apiaries, inflatable toys, etc.

One of the most common options for a homemade vulcanizer is the option using an old iron.

The reason for this is the new, more functional irons, and the old (Soviet) irons, in working order (if you don’t have any left) can be easily found with a neighbor. Here is a free basic part of the vulcanizer for you.

Below are a few designs. Which one to choose is up to you, the basic idea is the same, the difference is how to provide a clamp connection at the place of vulcanization of a rubber product.

Raw rubber is soaked (for a while) in gasoline, the size is slightly less than the size of a patch.

The puncture site is treated with sandpaper (size - with a margin), wiped with gasoline. A patch is cut out of auto-chamber rubber, the edges are rounded. The patch is also processed with sandpaper, then with gasoline. Next: raw rubber on the hole, a patch on it, we clamp everything in our vulcanizer. You can put a piece of newspaper underneath to keep the rubber from sticking to the vulcanizer plate.

Wait for the water to boil when it hits the vulcanizer (15-20 minutes). Turn off the vulcanizer, wait a bit, remove the vulcanizer, let the rubber cool. They also check the temperature with the help of granulated sugar: if its grains in contact with the hot vulcanizer begin to melt and turn yellow, then it’s time to turn off the vulcanizer.

If your thermostat works, set it to 150 degrees. (approximately for ironing silk). The thermostat can be adjusted experimentally. If there is a smell of burnt rubber, this is a sign high temperature if the patch is poorly fused (vulcanized) - a sign of insufficient temperature or short vulcanization time.

After one or two times everything becomes clear and vulcanization can be put on stream 🙂

For more specific work, you will need a simple mold, which is made from two steel plates 6-8 mm thick and 40X60 mm in size. Four holes are drilled in the corners and an M4 thread is cut to tighten the halves with screws.

The inner edges of the plates are slightly ground down so that the edges do not cut into the rubber. In the case of a complex configuration of the parts to be repaired, the plates are given an appropriate shape or additional holes and grooves are made.

Before starting work, the treated area is carefully cleaned (the edges of the apiaries are cut at an angle of 45 °) and degreased with light gasoline (B-70).

Then a patch is applied to the repaired place right size from raw rubber, put into a mold and tightly tightened with screws. Putting on a heated iron in such a way that the entire plane of the lower half of the mold touches the heating surface, give an exposure of 10-15 minutes.

During operation, make sure that the rubber does not touch the hot parts of the iron.
Grooves for gluing the belts are drilled with the mold halves tightened, and the diameter of the drill should be equal to the diameter of the belt. It is possible to drill several holes in one mold, for different diameters of the apiaries, however, the distance between them must be no less than the thickness of the workpiece.

Otherwise, the heating of the gluing site will be uneven and the quality of vulcanization will deteriorate.
Cleaning the gluing places or trimming the ends of the apiary is done immediately before work, and the raw rubber is applied in a thin layer - so the connection will be stronger.

Scheme of a vulcanizer with an integrated clamp

Vulcanizer iron: 1 - clamp bracket, 2 - boss, 3 - clamping screw, 4 - clamping heel, 5 - electric iron.

Cut a bracket out of five millimeter steel (see fig.

figure), weld a cylindrical boss to it from above, and along inside- a strip of metal 50 mm wide. The cross section of the resulting clamp should have a T-shape. Drill a hole along the axis of the boss and cut a thread in it for the clamping screw. Then bolt the body of the iron to the bottom of the Clamp - and the vulcanizer is almost ready.

The easiest option vulcanization with an iron- no modifications at all.

Raw rubber is applied to the cleaned place of the gap, then paper and everything is pressed on top with an iron.

Some weight is placed on the iron. Vulcanization lasts 10-15 minutes, the temperature of the iron is 140-150 ° C (the thermostat is in the “silk” position). Since the exact temperature of the iron is unknown, care must be taken not to burn the rubber.

The smell of burnt rubber indicates too much heat.

Another option homemade vulcanizer from electric stove and clamp

According to the dimensions (diameter and height) of the ceramic base from a household electric stove with an open spiral, a welded heater body is made of iron with a thickness of 5 mm.

Four legs of a bar and a clamp are welded to its walls. Insert a ceramic element with a spiral into the body, on which, to prevent its contact with the metal, it is necessary to put a gasket made of asbestos sheet.

From below the electric heater with the help of two bolts is closed with an iron cover.

The main details of a homemade vulcanizer:
1 - body; 2 - bottom cover; 3 - asbestos gasket; 4 - ceramic base with nichrome spiral; 5 - power cord.

On the upper surface of the housing, near the clamp, a bimetallic thermostat is mounted from a conventional iron, complete with a signal lamp and its resistance.

The electrical circuit of the vulcanizer is similar to that of an iron. By controlling the temperature of the surface of the plate made by the vulcanizer with a mercury or other thermometer, the regulator is adjusted so that it turns off the heating element at a temperature of about 140-150°C.

Do-it-yourself cutting machine for metal

At the same time, the signal light goes out, which indicates that the vulcanizer is turned off. The heating time depends on the power of the heating coil.

And the last option is a camping one that does not require electricity, which can be very useful in case of trouble along the way.

This homemade vulcanizer made using a piston from a motorcycle or car engine, for the use of which only 40-50 grams of gasoline are needed.

The vulcanizer is easy to manufacture, it includes only a few parts:
1 - the base of the vulcanizer
2 - bolts
3 - beam
4 - piston
5 - self-tapping screws
6 - nuts
7 - holes for self-tapping screws
8 - bolt holes

The base 1 is made of wood, as the wood does not interfere with good heating of the rubber.

Bolts 2 are inserted into the holes of the base and fixed to the base with the help of self-tapping screws 5, from turning in the base hole. . The bolts are made of a metal rod with a diameter of 12mm. A washer is welded on one end of the rod, and an M12 thread is cut on the other.

A beam is put on both bolts from the side of the thread, which, with the help of nuts, presses the vulcanizer piston to the base.
A damaged chamber is placed between the base and the piston.

Materials and design can be changed - only the principle of operation is important.

To repair the camera, you need to find damage, clean it, and wipe it with clean gasoline. Then install a patch of raw rubber on the damaged place and cover with a piece of newspaper, and put the piston on top. We press the piston with the help of a rail with nuts. Pour gasoline into the piston and release a small piece of rag into the gasoline.

We set fire to gasoline and after all the gasoline has burned down, we give time for the piston to cool completely. Only after that we remove the piston.

Repair of the damaged camera is completed. The patch looks like after a conventional vulcanizer - reliable and durable, does not require re-repair.

If you are interested in making a homemade winch

Repair yourself and as they say "not a nail ..."

Do-it-yourself metalworking machines

For each company (factories, factories) the most important is air supply, as well as water cooling, which is necessary in each technological process. For this purpose, special systems with fans are used.

DIY metal cutting machine

Various pumps and fans are do-it-yourself metalworking machines to stabilize the temperature process in production. Special machines control electricity consumption and absorb the effect of noise.

We use scales for every food trading company. Modern scales are automatic device, which accurately measures the weight of the item. The device is equipped with a display and a special keyboard, which allows you to set service rates gas equipment 2016 and display necessary information for seller and buyer.

You can control the leveling from the power supply or charge it from the battery (portable version).

In any office or company they support optimal temperature air and air exchange with the help of special devices. This is necessary to organize a convenient workflow. Among the various devices we use equipment for mini-smokers: covers, air conditioners of various modifications, ventilation shafts with natural and artificial cooling.

Ventilation can be exhaust, inlet and mechanical.

Important: do-it-yourself metalworking machines

In addition, test equipment and running machines for turning 1K62 Wales, phoenix design, lathe cutting - lathe cutting, damping speed for refrigeration equipment, brick making equipment, hypertension, shoe making, equipment price, tape on CSF 172 machine, machine rabbit skin, how to weave animatronics from rubber belts to monstrous machine.

For manufacturing companies food products, various machines are used that provide an automated workflow.

The automation setting can be defined using some functions in the t-razor for Chelyabinsk. These are different groups of machines that differ depending on the functions performed. All technological operations can be classified in accordance with the principle of the work performed, the device and modes of implementation.

Companies producing semi-finished products for sale in grocery supermarkets are equipped with special refrigerators.

Freezers are the purchase of a 2c132 device that keeps the final product for a fixed period of time. In frozen appliances, ready-made semi-finished products are equipped with a special conveyor belt equipped with a spiral belt.

Do-it-yourself pendulum saw for metal

How is a homemade circular saw made?

  • Circular homemade saw
  • Pendulum circular saw with a powerful electric motor
  • Mini circular saw
    • Making the foundation
    • Engine installation

A homemade mini circular saw will perfectly solve the issue of savings.

Because not every home master, in order to make a small repair, can afford to purchase it. But sometimes you can't do without such a tool. A homemade circular saw that turns out can perfectly cope with the task associated with small construction, for example, in the country.

In order to make repairs at home or in the country, you need a circular saw, and you can do it yourself.

Circular homemade saw

A circular homemade saw is designed to saw logs.

The thickness of the logs that this equipment can cut depends on the power of the electric drive.

Assembly diagram of a circular saw.

If it is necessary to cut thick blocks of wood, a shaft, a belt drive and the most powerful engine are placed on these saws.

Any do-it-yourself circular saw made consists of a lower and an upper part.

Electrical equipment is installed at the bottom:

  • transformer
  • engine
  • starting device.

Attached to the top:

The frame of the upper part of the saw is best made from a 25 mm metal corner.

The approximate dimensions of the rectangle in the form of which the upper part is presented are 600x400 mm. Pipes are welded in its corners (recommended height #8211 is 2.2 m, and diameter #8211 is 17 mm).

Additionally, 2 corners are fixed along the frame and to strengthen the bearings. The distance between them is determined by the size of the shaft.

Well, another cutting machine 🙂

Clamps are used to secure the bearings. Chips will not get stuck between rings, balls and cage when sealed bearings are supplied.

A thread must be made at the end of the shaft so that the disk is clamped.

Scheme of the bearing assembly of a circular saw.

The lower part is best made massive so that the circular saw is stable. For the manufacture of the frame for this part, a 40 mm corner is used. To fix the engine, it is necessary to additionally strengthen 2 corners across the frame. An asynchronous three-phase motor with a power of 1.5 kW and 1500 rpm is the best option for a circular saw made by hand.

The pulley stream has an internal size of 80 mm, it is mounted on the shaft. There is also a need to weld a small platform in order to fix the launcher on it.

Pipes having a length of 2.2 m, welded to the corners of the frame, are needed to tension the belt so that the metal lambs press the thin pipes.

After that, the lower and upper parts of the hand-held circular saw are embedded in the supports, the role of which is played by pipes, then the belt is tightened and tightened with lambs. Start induction motor in this model of a homemade saw, it is carried out through starting capacitors.

To additionally load the engine and increase the torque, it is possible to use a 220/36 400 W transformer, the connection of which is made according to an autotransformer circuit. The location of the capacitor and transformer does not really matter in the operation of the circuit.

Pendulum circular saw with a powerful electric motor

Scheme of a table for a circular saw with a lifting-lowering mechanism.

Mini circular saw

With this indispensable tool for home construction, you can cut any material and at any desired angle.

This means doing all the work associated with the rotating saw blade. Now let's look at how a mini circular saw is made with your own hands.

Making the foundation

It is very important to achieve perfect parallelism of the inner edges of the plate. Fastening the tool from below to the table will be carried out so that the circular saw is between the sheets of the tabletop in the middle of the gap. A mini circular saw is attached to the drilled holes on the table in this position.

Cutting a profile, pipe or any other workpiece strictly perpendicular to the axis and cleanly with a hand tool is not an easy task, but using an electric pendulum saw is mere trifles.

The device consists of a base frame and a sheet of metal (or a sheet of durable plastic), pivotally connected by an axis on one side.

On the frame with the side opposite the axis, a corner is welded parallel to it, in which pipes or profiles are laid for cutting.

An electric motor and a shaft connected by a drive belt are fixed on the top sheet. Don't forget to attach a handy handle.

At the opposite end of the shaft from the pulley, a clamp is made for attaching a cutting wheel or circular saw.

Such a pendulum saw can cut almost everything: metal, plastic, wood (even logs). When sawing logs, the lower frame rotates around the hinge axis by 180 ′.

In this position, it is fixed with something, for example, an assistant can stand on it. In order not to move a heavy log after each saw, it is easier to carry the saw along it.

Blanks can be cut at different angles. To do this, the corner on which the workpiece is placed must be fixed to the base frame not by welding, but by bolts and provide for the possibility of installing it at different angles to the saw blade.

Details of the saw blade shaft assembly

1-shaft, 2-bearing bracket, 3-saw blade bushing clamps, 4-pulley.

DIY pendulum saw

It is useful to replenish the arsenal of metal-cutting machines of a home workshop with a pendulum saw.

You can fix it on a workbench, next to the bench vise, in which the workpiece is clamped. The working tool of the saw is an abrasive disk. Steel bars, angles, pipes, sheets, and even metlakh tiles, porcelain and glass, hardened to any hardness, are tough for him, and the cut surface is quite clear. If you replace the disk with a saw with small tooth, then you can saw wood, plywood or plastic, while a diamond blade will make it possible to process stones.

To secure the workpiece, it is convenient to use a rotary vice, in this case, cutting can be done at an angle, which is very convenient when preparing parts for welding.

Various attachments to the saw allow you to make shallow cuts and grooves, and even turn it into a regular circular saw.

For such a saw, you will need a single-phase electric motor with a power of 340 W (from an electric grinder) or a three-phase AOL 21-2 type with a power of 400 W with a rotation speed of 2800 rpm.

Transfer of rotation to the spindle of the machine - V-belt type A-I018 from the GAZ-24 car.

Rice. 1 Pendulum saw: 1 - electric motor, 2 - support, 3 - protective casing of the tool, 4 - tool (abrasive disc), 5 - protective casing of the belt, 6 - V-belt A-1018, 7 - screw M8X14 mm, 8 - drive pulley (D 16) , 9 - belt cover (steel), 1C - driven pulley (D 16), 11 - spacer (steel), 12 - washer (steel), 13 - pendulum feed handle, 14 - M6X12 mm bolt, 15 - M5 screw X10 mm, 16 - shaft (steel), 17 - cover (D 16), 18 - cover (D 16), 19 - sleeve (steel), 20 - washer (steel), 21 - nut (steel), 22 - ball bearing No. 203.

23 - body (steel), 24 - boss (steel), 25 - M6X8 mm screw. 26 - M8 X 16 mm screw, 27 - boss (steel), 28 - frame (steel), 20 - M6X16 mm bolt, 30 - 1/2 "pipe (steel), 31 - axle (steel), 32 - bushing ( steel), 33 - washer, 34 - M10 nut, 35 - plate (steel), 36 - intermediate housing (D 16).

The basis of the saw is a spinal frame of square section, to which the spindle body is welded on one side, and on the other - a plate for installing the engine. A 1/2" pipe is passed through the groove in the frame - it is the body of the swing axis of the saw.

When performing welding work, make sure that the axis of the motor shaft, the spindle shaft and the swing axis of the saw are strictly parallel. After welding, be sure to straighten the frame, clean the welds and paint with nitro enamel with a preliminary primer.

Belt guard and abrasive disc guard made of 2 mm thick sheet steel.

It is best to weld blanks from the inside with a fillet weld. The belt guard is bolted directly to the motor and frame, to which the abrasive disc guard is also screwed.

The drive handle is located on the removable cover of the belt cover.

Stuff the spindle bearings with CIATIM-221 grease before assembly.

Insert felt rings impregnated with liquid lubricant into the grooves of the bearings.

At the assembled saw, the engine must outweigh the spindle and be at the bottom, between the supports, otherwise, when the saw is turned on, the abrasive may hit the workpiece and crumble.

Rice. 2 Pendulum saw attachments:A - for cutting grooves: 1 - belt drive housing, 2 - bracket, 3 - work table fixed in a vise

B - for cutting sheet material: 1 - belt drive casing, 2 - folding table, 3 - hinge, 4, 5 - brackets.

Cases for bolts and nails: For convenient storage of bolts, nails, screws, etc.

It is very convenient to use jars with screw-on lids. Nail the lids to the bottom of the wall cabinet and screw the jars with the contents into the bottom. Now every little thing will be in its place.

Fleas in cats and dogs. An excellent way to fight.: A cat, dog or other animal can be freed from fleas by bathing it in a decoction of tobacco. After that, wash with warm water.

Bulgarian is a very useful and versatile tool. With it, you can cut metal, stone, tiles and, of course, grind surfaces, but sometimes it is much easier and more accurate to perform these works with a stationary machine. Fortunately, you can make a cutting machine from a grinder with your own hands.

Pros and cons of a homemade machine

If you have to hold a grinder in your hands often enough, you probably managed to feel its disadvantages. Weaknesses of the tool in its main advantage - mobility.

Firstly, it is not always possible to fix the parts during cutting, and their slightest vibration can lead to the destruction of the abrasive disc, which, in turn, is fraught with serious injuries.

Secondly, it is rather difficult to control a clear perpendicularity of the cut with a mobile version of the tool, take into account the thickness of the disk in relation to the mark and the material being cut, and even hold it if necessary.

Thirdly, it is quite difficult to cut several parts of the same size with a tool, especially when it comes to twigs and small pipes - after cutting, you also have to trim the parts.

And, of course, the employment of both hands and the utmost tedious concentration during work, since the angle grinder is one of the most dangerous tools. What is only worth a kickback - a sudden rejection of the tool when the rotating abrasive disc is jammed in the workpiece. The danger of kickback lies not so much in the rejection of the tool as in the concomitant destruction of the circle. At such high speeds, fragments of abrasive can seriously injure the operator.

Especially often, a kickback occurs at the end of the cut, when only a small jumper connects the parts. In this case, it is recommended to stop the tool without cutting the workpiece to the end, remove the wheel and cut the part from the back side. A cutting machine, which can be constructed from available materials, can solve all of these problems and provide additional safety.

Photo gallery: DIY tool

Buy or not?

Finding a ready-made machine on store shelves that meets your needs at first glance is a fairly simple task. But there is hardly a design that is made completely in accordance with your requirements, but they are all different for everyone. In such cases, the owners of the machines are trying to improve or remake them, but they face very serious obstacles - either the manufacturers made the machine from alloys that are very difficult to work with by welding, or they did not take into account the little things that you need specifically - for example, an accurate ruler or a more elastic spring. Remaking someone else's is much more difficult than making your own.

The simplest home-made machine for a small grinder can be made at a minimum cost and in just a few hours.

From a metal pipe and corners

The finished design of such a machine will be a long metal pipe that performs both the role of a frame and the role of a handle. Closer to one end, a transverse metal bar with two holes for fastening the grinder is welded.

The pipe in this design is both a handle and a mount

On the same side, the pipe is attached to one side of a small piece of the corner on the movable shaft, while the corner itself is attached on the other side either to the desktop or simply to the floor in the working room. On the opposite side of the mount, it is imperative to fix the spring, which will allow the entire structure to return to its original position. That's all - the machine is ready, you just need to properly fix the grinder. Of course, this option is for the simplest work with metal, and for complex ones where accuracy is required, the design should already be more stable and thorough.

Video: cutting machine from improvised materials

Cutting machine with bed (drawing)

Necessary tools and materials

To make a cutting machine, you will need the following materials and tools: a steel angle, a profile pipe, a sheet of metal for a platform (or a lighter version of chipboard), a welding machine, a channel, a drill, a shaft, several identical bearings, a small diameter pipe, a spring, and also relay and pedal. Welding, if you think about it, can be replaced with strong bolts, and for this you need a drill. By the way, this option will allow, in addition to everything else, to disassemble the machine if necessary.

Drawing

The manufacture of the machine should begin with cutting parts onto the frame. To prevent damage to expensive material, carefully study the numerous drawings that can be found on the Internet or follow the models on the shelves. In the latter case, draw up a drawing yourself, for this you do not need special skills - the main thing is to present the finished structure and its proportions on paper. Each angle grinder needs its own drawing, because tools from different manufacturers can radically differ - somewhere you can remove the handle, somewhere you have to come up with a stand for the whole grinder! Plus, for different disk sizes, you need a different frame. Below are several diagrams.

Photo gallery: diagrams of cutting machines from a grinder for metal and for tiles

frame

The simplest frame consists of two frames on a common axis. The lower frame should be fixed on a platform - metal or chipboard. If the grinder is large, it is better to use metal. The upper frame, to which the grinder is screwed, must rotate vertically relative to the lower one, like a pendulum. A spring is needed to fix the starting position. A mount is welded to the lower frame, which consists of a clamping angle and a movable clamp.

The frame of the bed can be made of metal

Ruler

It is very important to provide measuring details in the machine, thanks to which you can cut workpieces with an accuracy of up to 1 mm. In this case, a movable ruler with a limiter welded to the tube is best suited. Having set the exact size with its help and secured with an end screw, you can get to work.

Electronics

For convenience of work, provide in the design a starting pedal or a button with switching through a low-voltage relay of 12 V. Through it, voltage will be supplied to the angle grinder. With the help of such a simple design, we free our hands, achieve an accurate even cut without the use of a vice, and save time on accurate measurements. This tool will replace the metal cut-off saw, and if necessary, you can always return the angle grinder to its mobile state.

Video: metal grinder frame

Video: homemade machine with a ruler for metal

Safety

When working with a grinder, stationary or manual, safety must always be remembered. In the case of the stationary version, you need to take into account the direction of the tool and the position of the guard - it is important that the guard completely hides the area in which the operator is located. If you have a machine, you will probably have a desire to use the tool for other purposes - for example, attach a saw blade for wood to the angle grinder, which is absolutely impossible to do!

Wood is a heterogeneous material, it can contain knots or even nails. The rotational speed of the angle grinder significantly exceeds the prescribed speed of a standard sawmill, which will very quickly render the saw blade unusable.

But, in addition to this, unlike abrasive and grinding discs, saw blades have sharp teeth that pose a high danger. Risking your health for a quick cut is simply unwise. After installing the tool and a new disc, the work of the grinder should be checked for at least 1 minute at idle - the circle should rotate completely freely, without excessive vibration, without touching the casing.

A cutting machine from a grinder is not so difficult to make yourself. And in the future, this tool will help you save time and effort.