In this article I will try to consider the main ways of connecting furniture parts, providing them, if possible, with installation tips with diagrams and comments.
So, the easiest mounting option, metal or plastic parts(metaboxes, clothes hooks, mounting angles) to chipboard, the chipboard sheets themselves and the sheets to the walls - this self-tapping screws. They can be with countersunk heads (in Fig. No. 1, 3,4,5,6), with press washers (in Fig. No. 2) and dowel-nails (in Fig. No. 7), which are used for driving / twisting into walls.
Screws are marked with two values. the first number indicates the thread diameter, the second - the total length. Naturally than larger diameter and length, the greater the load the self-tapping screw will withstand.
pros
- ease of use,
- Cheapness
Minuses:
- Relatively low load capacity.
For tightening, a screwdriver / screwdriver with an appropriate bit is used - usually a Phillips bit. To avoid cracking of workpieces, it is necessary to pre-drill mounting holes- with a drill bit smaller in diameter than the thread size. Under the hat, you need to drill a recess. I usually do this with a screwdriver bit.
A reinforced version of self-tapping screws, besides looking somewhat more aesthetically pleasing, are confirmations(or euro screws). They differ from ordinary screws in their greater thickness, thread pitch, cylindrical head for a hexagon and a blunt end.
Two main sizes of confirms are used: 50 mm and 75 mm. The former are more common and convenient for tightening 16 mm chipboard, while the latter are best used to work with 26 mm chipboard.
pros
- together,
- Significant holding power
Minuses
- Through fastening, which implies a cap visible on the surface (can be closed with decorative plugs),
- Instability to assembly and disassembly (the connection after only 3-4 cycles of assembly and disassembly practically loses its fixing properties).
This method of fastening allows you to repeatedly assemble and disassemble furniture, especially in the case of using a futorka, without losing the strength of the connection.
This advantage is more than offset by the complexity of manufacturing. For installation you will need: cylindrical drills (for wood or metal) with a diameter of 5 and 8 mm (5 mm should be with a limiter), with a diameter of 15 mm. It is advisable to use a furniture jig for accurate assembly.
pros
- Stealth (outside visible fasteners are not visible)
- Possibility of pulling parts together
Minuses
- Inside the product, a rather large eccentric remains visible - 15 mm, which must be hidden (with a plastic or self-adhesive plug)
- Complexity (3 parts, 3 holes, special tools)
Eccentric coupler VB35 MD/16 differs from the minifix in the structure of the eccentric and the short stem. It is used mainly for hanging shelves, although for different kind lids and countertops are just as great. There are two options for rods short (for hanging shelves on one side) and long (if the shelves should be on both sides of vertical rack on the same level. At the same time, the rod passes through the parts, protruding symmetrically on both sides). 
The eccentric itself in this version is closed in a decorative casing (metal or plastic), the color of which can be matched to the color of the laminated chipboard. It looks quite original, and there is no need to hide it. The eccentric is wrapped from below, if necessary, you can drill an additional hole on top of the shelf, which then will have to be closed with a plug.
pros
- invisible from the outside
- No need to hide the eccentric inside the finished product
- Ability to pull parts
- Ease of making a connection (only 2 holes, instead of three in a minifix)
- Ease of installation (the shelf is simply thrown over the top, after which it is fixed)
- Possibility of multiple assembly and disassembly
Minuses
- Expensive (price about 15 rubles per set)
- The need for a specialized tool (Forstner cutter)
- The fastening force is less than that of confirmations
Furniture coupler it is used mainly for pulling together several cabinets into a single unit (for example, in kitchens). Represents threaded connection with two heads for Phillips and flat screwdrivers.
For application, only a drill of a suitable diameter and a screwdriver are needed.
pros
- Significant holding force
- Ease of installation
- Ability to pull parts
Minuses
- Narrow specialization (the ability to tighten only parallel parts),
- Visible heads
It consists of as many as five parts: the tie itself, two fittings and two bolts with a countersunk head. To work, you will need a 10 mm drill, a screwdriver, a hexagon (we twist metal fittings) or a hammer (we hammer plastic fittings).
pros
- Significant connection strength
- Unpretentiousness to marking holes
- Easy to make (2 holes)
- Possibility of multiple assembly and disassembly
- Invisibility from the outside of the product
- Ability to pull parts
Minuses
plastic corners simple and cheap way connection of parts. It differs from the previous one in greater aesthetics and ease of installation (you don’t need to drill anything at all - it is attached to simple self-tapping screws, but much less durable. Today, a large number of colors - you can match the color of the chipboard so that the element does not catch the eye.
Their variety is metal corners with plastic cover have the same advantages and disadvantages, with the exception of a slightly higher connection strength (of course, they do not reach the aluminum screed, but they are no longer a plastic corner).
Minuses
- Dimensions (interferes with the installation of other fittings),
- Low connection strength
- The impossibility of tightening parts,
- The impossibility of repeated assembly and disassembly,
In conclusion, I will say that in order to choose furniture fittings that are optimal in your case, you should remember a few simple rules:
The fittings must withstand the expected load with some margin;
Fixing elements for finished product should be as invisible as possible;
Fastener elements accessible to the eye must be closed with decorative caps (plastic or self-adhesive);
Consider the possibility of subsequent assembly and disassembly of the product.
FOR A BEGINNER FURNITURE MANUFACTURER, I WOULD RECOMMEND TO USE CONFIRMATIONS AND SELF-TAPPING SCREWS, SOMETIMES ADDITIONAL TO THEM WITH DIFFERENT CORNERS. IN MOST CASES THIS IS ENOUGH FOR A STRONG AND NOT HIGHLY VISIBLE CONNECTION.
Joining techniques, that is, how to create strong connections between individual wooden parts in the manufacture of furniture, are essential for the successful design of built-in products. Wall makers use dozens of connection methods, but for furniture construction, you only need a few of the simple connections shown here.
The choice of connection method depends on how the built-in furniture structure will be used and how it should look. For example, a built-in furniture design to display items such as decorative glassware can be made with simple connections end-to-end, and for heavy objects (for example, a multi-volume encyclopedia) - with strong groove joints reinforced with screws. If important appearance furniture, choose a hidden connection method. For example, a built-in design with cleat joints looks more like a factory one than a butt-to-bar design.
Lap joint
With many built-in furniture constructions, you will need to glue and tighten several joints at the same time. For this job, you need a variety of different clamps. Use wood glue to reinforce all joints. Joints made with nails and screws alone will loosen over time.
Types of furniture connections
Method for gluing furniture
Pull the pieces together to hold them securely at the seams. After measuring the diagonals, make sure the corners are square. Their straightness is evidenced by the same length of the diagonals. If the length is different, correct the position of the parts. |
Reinforce the connections by drilling pilot holes in them. Screw in screws or drive in finishing nails. For screws, bore out the base holes so that the screw heads are recessed. Deepen the nails with a punch. |
Close the bored holes with plugs hard rock wood, smeared with glue, and cover the nail holes with putty for wood. When the glue or putty is dry, smooth the surface with sandpaper, and then varnish. |
How to make a dovetail connection
1 Measure the profile desired length, then set the miter saw blade at a 45° angle.
2 Clamp the profile in the angle saw, then cut to size. Apply a thin, even layer of wood glue to the beveled edges of the profile.
3 Place the profile sections on wooden structure so that their beveled ends are tightly pressed against each other. Drill through base holes in the profile and in the product and attach the profile with finishing nails.
How to make a butt joint
1 Using a box square, trace the location of the joints on the wood blank. If desired, attach slats along the bottom edge of each joint for reinforcement.
2 Apply wood glue to the surfaces to be joined. When doing this, use a cardboard stick or strip, which ensures an even application of glue.
3 Connect both parts to reinforce each connection, drill the base holes and drive a trim nail or screw into the connections. (A guideline on the blank will help align the nails.)
How to make a groove connection
1 Hold the pieces together and "mark the groove". Insert a straight cutter into the cutter and set it to the desired depth. Usually the depth of the groove is half the thickness wood detail. For example, with a thickness of 3/4 inch, the depth of the grooves should be 1 cm.
2 Pinch the rectangular guide ruler on each side where the grooves will be, so that the edges of the rulers are against the marked lines. Place a scrap piece of wood the same thickness as the stock between the rulers to measure the gap.
3 Cut the groove with two passes of the cutter. On the first pass, firmly press the base of the router bit against one of the straight rails, then make a second pass in the opposite direction, pressing the base of the router bit against the second rail.
4 Apply wood glue to the surfaces to be joined, pull the parts together. Drill pilot holes and screw in screws or drive in finishing nails at a distance of 7.5-10 cm from each other. For screws, countersink the base holes.
How to make a blind connection on spikes using a template
1 Arrange the parts as they should look after joining. Label them A and B as shown above. Flip the pieces as shown below. In this case, the surfaces are connected and look at you. Using the template and an additional clamp, pull the pieces together so that the ends are in line.
2 Insert a brush drill into the drill. If you are studding a 3/4" board, use a 3/8" bit.
To make sure you drill holes to the correct depth, install a stopper.
3 Drill the dowel holes in both pieces through the template hole. For a 3/4" piece, the holes in piece A should be 1.3cm deep and the holes in piece B 3cm deep. Move the template and drill new holes 7.5-10cm apart.
4 Check for proper connection by inserting 1 1/2" knurled spikes into A, then tapping wooden mallet on part B, install it in its place. If the parts do not fit snugly, deepen the dowel holes in part B.
5 Separate the parts and remove the spikes, apply glue to the spikes and insert them into the holes of part B. Apply glue to the surfaces to be joined as well. Attention. When joining melamine-coated particle board, use glue only on the spikes.
6 Assemble the parts by tapping on them with a wooden mallet until the connection "sits" tightly. Remove excess adhesive with a damp cloth.
How to Make Blind Face Connections Using a Spike Center Marker
1 Mark the connection line on the front side of the workpiece. Using a template, make holes for the studs on the edge of the other part, then insert a stud center marker into each hole.
2 Place the parts edgewise on flat surface, then press them together so that the tips of the markers leave tattoos on the tree.
3 At the marked points, drill holes with a brush drill. For 3/4" thick wood, the holes should be 1.3cm deep. Use a square drill guide with a drill stop. Assemble the spiked part.
How to make through spike joints
1 Pull and glue the parts together, draw a guide line. Using a 4.3 cm deep brush drill bit with a stopper, drill holes in one piece for the studs to fit into the adjacent piece. Place the holes at a distance of 7.5-10 cm from each other.
2 Apply carpenter's glue to the 1 1/2" grooved studs, then insert the studs into the holes. Using a punch, drive the spikes in until they stop.
3 Seal the dowel holes with hardwood plugs coated with adhesive. Let the glue dry, then sand the surface with an emery stone.
Modern furniture fittings offers a wide range of furniture fasteners, each of which has its own scope depending on the type of connection and the materials used. In this article, we will analyze in detail the main furniture fasteners that are used to make furniture in professional workshops and home craftsmen.
Furniture dowel
This type of fastening in the modern furniture industry is rarely used as an independent one. It is mainly used only for stiffening in conjunction with eccentric couplers.
Its main function in most cases of building furniture is to prevent the panels from moving relative to each other and to give additional rigidity to the mount.
It is usually used in conjunction with an eccentric coupler. It is made from hard rocks. natural wood, It has cylindrical shape. This is a very simple and cheap piece that has been used in wood joints since time immemorial.
Craftsmen and carpentry workshops working with wood use furniture dowel as the main fastener. In this case, the furniture parts are connected to dowels, which are glued to the parts with PVA glue. In this case, together with PVA, the use of any other screeds no longer makes sense.
Screw tie
The screw tie consists of a screw and a barrel. Such a kit is used to fasten the end of one panel to the face of another. For example, for attaching a shelf to a side panel or a headboard to a drawer side.
This is a very strong fastening due to the large tightening stroke. The only drawback of this fastener is the visibility of the screw head from the front side of the panel.
You can, of course, close them with special plugs, but this is also not a panacea. The plugs on the outer panel of the cabinet do not look aesthetically pleasing.
Skills are required to install this type of fastener. Beginners may encounter such a problem as inaccurate alignment of the holes of the barrel with the hole in the end of the shelf, and it is not so easy to pull an unwanted barrel out of its nest.
But the inconvenience during assembly and the aesthetic error is more than offset by the reliability and durability of the connection.
Conical coupler
A conical tie is often used for fastening thick chipboard panels (25 mm, 38 mm) and assembling frame facades on ties.
One of its advantages is the absence of visible hats on the front side of the panels. Unlike the screw in a turnbuckle, the stem used in a conical turnbuckle is screwed into the panel. The screed itself has 2 holes. One is for the stem, which is screwed into the panel layer. The second is for the conical tie screw. The disadvantage of this type of fastener is a small tightening stroke. Under heavy loads, the stem screw holes may loosen over time. Then the screed will simply stop working!
furniture corner
Pretty simple fastener. Easy to install. It does not require any additional holes in the panels for its installation. There are both metal and plastic options.
Enough durable look mounts. Of the shortcomings - it is visible and does not look aesthetically pleasing. But this is the main type of fastening in built-in furniture.
Euroscrew
This fastener is more often used to assemble modules kitchen furniture and in economy class furniture. Just like with a screw tie, euro screw heads or plugs are visible on the front side of the side panel of the cabinet.
It is screwed into the end of the shelf with pre- drilled hole. This screed also belongs to the economy class. To install it, 2 holes are drilled - into the end of the shelf and into the face of the part. They are attached perpendicular to each other. The most commonly used euroscrews are 7 mm in diameter and 50 or 70 mm long.
This screed has 2 significant drawbacks:
Firstly, the outer sidewall of the cabinet, if there are a lot of shelves behind it, as a rule, it is all “mutilated” with hats or euroscrew plugs. Therefore, these fasteners are used in economy furniture. In kitchens, this drawback is hidden thanks to the cabinets standing in a row.
Secondly, furniture assembled on euro screws cannot be disassembled and assembled more than 3 times, since screwing the tie into the end of the shelf destroys its internal structure.
Eccentric coupler
One of the most popular types of fasteners today. All quality furniture it is assembled on an eccentric coupler (minifix). Its principle of operation is as follows: an eccentric rod is screwed into the face of the part to which the other panel will be attached to the end, into which, in turn, the eccentric itself is screwed through the end of the other shelf, and then the eccentric turns the rod into itself.
The eccentric turnbuckle is always used in conjunction with the wooden dowel, which was described earlier. The dowel provides additional rigidity of the assembly, prevents displacement of the fixed panels relative to each other.
Furniture assembled on this screed can be disassembled and reassembled an unlimited number of times! There are different diameters of the eccentric itself 25, 15, 12 mm. The most common is the eccentric with a diameter of 15 mm.
Since the eccentric itself is visible on the side panel, there are plugs for it to match the color of the panel. Among the disadvantages is the weakening of the screed in the event of spontaneous rotation of the eccentric.
To avoid this, some hardware manufacturers have provided notches directed in the opposite direction from its rotation during installation, which enhances grip.
Varieties of eccentric couplers
As practice shows, furniture is assembled and disassembled with great difficulty if all the fasteners in it are metal ties, described above. Suppose, in order to remove one shelf, it is necessary, in practice, to disassemble half the cabinet. For horizontal parts (shelves), it is more convenient to use eccentrics that allow you to place horizontal parts in an already assembled furniture box. Their principle of operation is the same as that of the previously described eccentric coupler. The only difference is that the eccentric, located in the shelf, is mounted on the rod screwed into the face of the sidewall from above and it is not necessary to disassemble half the cabinet for this. In some factories, this type of fastener is called a shelf support, as it is intended only for horizontal parts. Horizontal shelves assembled using these ties additionally tighten the connection, which enhances the rigidity of the entire furniture frame.
There is a wide variety of eccentric-type furniture fasteners on the furniture market, but the principle of operation is the same for everyone. Knowing the principle of operation of one type of eccentric screed, you can easily figure out the rest.
Why did I touch on the topic (LDSP)? The one who does DIY furniture, wants not only to make a quality product, but also to be inexpensive. And by gluing two parts into one, you can achieve required thickness details. At the same time save on the cost of the plate.
Let me give you an example, there is a product that is mainly made of chipboard 16mm, but several parts have a thickness of 30mm. When ordering cutting of such a product, we pay the cost of the entire slab, even if only a few parts are cut out of it. In this case, it is very uneconomical.
To save on the cost of the material, you can make a part 30 mm thick from 16 mm laminated chipboard by gluing them together in double thickness. Please note that the part will turn out to be 32 mm, this must be taken into account. Although in some cases (if it is the cover of a chest of drawers or cabinets), 2 mm does not play a special role.
FIRST WAY
Task: get a part 600x300 with a thickness of 32 or 36 mm, edged with a wide edge, by gluing two parts of chipboard (16 + 16 or 18 + 18, etc. - the principle is one).
For this it is necessary in cutting chipboard 16mm include two identical parts (!) 620x320(i.e. increase the detail from the required size by 10 cm around the perimeter).
If the thickened panel will be viewed from two sides, we connect the plane to the plane with dowels and contact glue. The glue is applied with a spatula evenly in a thin layer on both parts. This must be done quickly, because the contact adhesive dries quickly. We clamp it with clamps or under a press for at least 12 hours (I usually: today I glued it - tomorrow I work with the part further).
If the thickened panel will be visible only from one side, after gluing the parts (without dowels), you can fasten them with 4x30 screws along the edges and in the center. In this case, clamps or a press are not needed.
After gluing, "drive" the part into a size of 600x300, i.e., cut off the edges around the perimeter. Do not forget to take into account the thickness of the edge in the dimensions of the part. It is necessary to cut the part on the machine, keeping the cut clean and the angle of 90 degrees. Now you can close. Ready.
SECOND WAY. Better than the first one.
Task: get a part 600x300 with a thickness of 32 or 36 mm by gluing two edged chipboard parts (16 + 16 or 18 + 18, etc. - principle one).
To do this, it is necessary to include two identical parts in cutting chipboard 16mm 600x300(!). Shut them up.
We glue, as in the previous method. You just need to carefully align the edges! And the result is a little different - the part comes out thickened, but "double".
Both methods of chipboard gluing are used in the project.
THIRD WAY.
Task: get a part 600x300 with a thickness of 32 or 36 mm, using mortgages from chipboard of the appropriate thickness.
We include one detail in the cutting 620x320(!) And mortgages - in this case 620x60- 2 pieces and 200x60- 2-3 pieces. The principle is to make embeds along the perimeter and above the rest, on which the finished part will be attached.
We glue the part and mortgages with contact glue and duplicate with 4x30 screws. After complete drying, we "drive" into the size 600x300. And we cut the butt.
In the case of a tabletop, mortgages are made on the table along the perimeter and in places where the legs will be attached, plus - the bottom side is closed with 3mm fiberboard. Fiberboard is also glued on contact glue and under the press. After complete drying, we “drive” it to the required size and trim the end. As a result, we get a part with a thickness of 35 mm. Lightweight table.
That's all I wanted to tell. If you know other ways of gluing laminated chipboard, you can share in the comments.
A myriad of connections can be used to connect wooden parts. The names and classifications of carpentry joints tend to vary significantly by country, region, and even school of woodworking. The craftsmanship lies in the fact that the precision of execution provides a correctly functioning connection that is able to withstand the loads intended for it.
Initial information
Connection categories
All connections (in carpentry they are called bindings) of wooden parts according to the scope can be divided into three categories (foreign version of the classification):
- box;
- frame (frame);
- for splicing/splicing.
Box connections are used, for example, in the manufacture drawers and arrangement of cabinets, frame are used in window frames and doors, and rallying / splicing serves to obtain parts of an increased size in width / length.
Many joints can be used in different categories, for example, butt joints are used in all three categories.
Material preparation
Even planed lumber may need some preparation.
- Trim the material with a margin in width and thickness for further planing. Don't cut to length yet.
- Choose the best quality layer - the front side. Plane it along the entire length. Check with a straightedge.
After the final alignment, make a mark on the front side with a pencil. - Plane the front - clean - edge. Check with a straightedge, as well as a square against the front side. Smooth out warp by planing. Mark a clean edge.
- Use a thickness gauge to mark the required thickness along all edges of the part contour. Plan up to this risk. Check with a straightedge.
- Repeat the operation for the width.
- Now mark up the length and actual connections. Mark from the front side and a clean edge.
Lumber marking
Be careful when marking lumber. Make sufficient allowances for kerf width, planing thickness and joining.
All readings are taken from the front side and the clean edge, on which put the appropriate marks. In frame and cabinet designs, these marks should face inward to improve manufacturing accuracy. For ease of sorting and assembly, number the parts as they are manufactured on the front side so that, for example, it indicates that side 1 is connected to end 1.
When marking identical parts, carefully align them and make markings on all workpieces at once. This will ensure that the markup is identical. When marking profile elements, keep in mind that there can be “right” and “left” parts.
Butt joints
These are the simplest of joinery and carpentry joints. They can be included in all three categories of compounds.
Assembly
The butt joint can be reinforced with nails hammered at an angle. Drive the nails in randomly.
Trim the ends of the two pieces evenly and join them. Secure with nails or screws. Before this, glue can be applied to the parts to enhance fixation. Butt joints in frame structures can be reinforced with a steel plate or a corrugated key on the outside, or with a wooden block fixed on the inside.
Nail / dowel connections
Wooden dowels - today they are increasingly called dowels - can be used to strengthen the connection. These plug-in round spikes increase shear (shear) strength and, with adhesive, hold the assembly in place more securely. Dowel connections can be used as frame connections (furniture), drawer connections (cabinets) or for riveting/splicing (panels).
Assembling the dowel joint
1. Carefully cut out all the components to exactly the right dimensions. Mark the position of the crossbar on the face and clean edge of the upright.
2. Mark the center lines for the dowels at the end of the crossbar. The distance from each end must be at least half the thickness of the material. A wide bar may require more than two dowels.
Mark the center lines for the pins on the end of the crossbar and transfer them to the rack using the square.
3. Lay the upright and bar face up. On the square, transfer the center lines to the rack. Number and label all connections if there are more than one pair of uprights and crossbars.
4. Transfer this marking to the clean edge of the post and the ends of the crossbar.
5. From the front side with a thickness gauge, draw a risk in the center of the material, crossing the marking lines. This will mark the centers of the holes for the dowels.
With a thickness gauge, draw a center line, crossing the marking lines, which will show the centers of the dowel holes.
6. Electric drill with twist drill or hand drill with a spatula drill, drill holes in all parts. The drill must have a center point and cutters. The hole across the fibers should be about 2.5 times the diameter of the dowel, and the hole at the end should be about 3 times the depth. For each hole, make an allowance of 2 mm, at this distance the dowel should not reach the bottom.
7. Remove excess fibers from the top of the holes with a countersink. This will also make it easier to install the dowel and create space for the adhesive to secure the connection.
Nagels
The nagel must have longitudinal groove(now standard pins are made with longitudinal ribs), along which excess glue will be removed when assembling the joint. If the dowel does not have a groove, then cut it flat on one side, which will give the same result. The ends should be chamfered to facilitate assembly and prevent damage to the hole by the dowel. And here, if the dowels do not have a chamfer, make it with a file or grind the edges of their ends.
Use of pins for marking dowels
Mark and drill the crossbars. Insert special dowel pins into the pin holes. Align the crossbar with the markings of the rack and squeeze the parts together. The tips of the teats will make marks on the rack. Drill holes through them. Alternatively, you can make a template out of a block of wood, drill holes in it, fix the template to the part and drill holes for the dowels through the holes in it.
Using a jig for a dowel connection
The metal jig for dowel connections greatly facilitates the marking and drilling of holes for dowels. In box joints, the jig can be used at the ends, but it will not work on the face of wide panels.
conductor for nail joints
1. Mark center lines on the front of the material where the dowel holes are to be. Select a suitable drill guide bushing and insert it into the jig.
2. Align the alignment marks on the side of the jig and secure the slide bearing of the guide bush.
3. Install the jig on the part. Align the center notch with the center line of the dowel hole. Tighten.
4. Install the drilling depth gauge on the drill at the desired location.
Rallying
To obtain a wider wooden part, you can use dowels to connect two parts of the same thickness along the edge. Place two boards with the wide sides together, line up the ends exactly, and clamp the pair in a vise. On a clean edge, draw perpendicular lines indicating the center lines of each dowel. In the middle of the edge of each board, with a thickness gauge, make risks across each previously marked center line. The intersection points will be the centers of the dowel holes.
The pin connection is neat and strong.
Flange / mortise connections
A notch, tie-in or groove connection is called a corner or middle connection, when the end of one part is attached to the layer and another part. It is based on a butt joint with an end cut made in the face. It is used in frame (house frames) or box (cabinets) connections.
Types of mortise / mortise connections
The main types of butt joints are the dark/semi-dark T-joint (often this term is replaced by the term "flush/semi-flush"), which looks like a butt joint, but is stronger, a quarter corner (corner joint) and a dark/semi-dark corner joint. The corner cut into the rebate and the corner cut into the rebate with darkness / semi-darkness are made in the same way, but the rebate is made deeper - two-thirds of the material is selected.
Making a cut
1. Mark a groove on the face of the material. The distance between the two lines is equal to the thickness of the second part. Continue the lines on both edges.
2. Use a thickness gauge to mark the depth of the groove between the marking lines on the edges. The depth is usually made from one quarter to one third of the thickness of the part. Mark the waste part of the material.
3. C-clamp fasten the item securely. Saw through the shoulders on the waste side of the marking lines to the desired depth. If the groove is wide, make additional cuts in the waste to make it easier to remove the material with a chisel.
Saw close to the marking line on the return side, making intermediate cuts with a wide groove.
4. Working with a chisel on both sides, remove excess material and check the flatness of the bottom. To level the bottom, you can use a primer.
With a chisel, remove the waste, working from both sides, and level the bottom of the groove.
5. Check the fit, if the piece is too tight it may need to be trimmed. Check for perpendicularity.
6. The notch connection can be strengthened by one of the following methods or a combination of them:
- gluing and clamping until the adhesive sets;
- screwing with screws through the face of the outer part;
- nailing at an angle through the face of the outer part;
- nailing obliquely through the corner.
The notch connection is strong enough
Tongue and groove connections
This is a combination of a quarter cut and a rebate cut. It is used in the manufacture of furniture and the installation of slopes of window openings.
Making a connection
1. Make the ends perpendicular to the longitudinal axes of both parts. On one part, mark the shoulder by measuring the thickness of the material from the end. Continue marking on both edges and front side.
2. Mark the second shoulder from the end, it should be at a distance of one third of the thickness of the material. Continue on both edges.
3. Use a thickness gauge to mark the depth of the groove (one third of the thickness of the material) on the edges between the shoulder lines.
4. With a hacksaw with a butt, saw through the shoulders to the risks of the thicknesser. Remove waste with a chisel and check for evenness.
5. Using a thickness gauge with the same setting, mark a line on the back and on the edges of the second part.
Adviсe:
- Tongue and groove type joints can be easily made with a router and an appropriate guide, either for the groove only or for both the groove and rebate. Recommendations for correct work with a cutter, see p. 35.
- If the comb is too tight in the groove, trim the front (smooth) side of the comb or sand with sandpaper.
6. From the front side with a thickness gauge, make markings on the edges towards the end and on the end itself. Saw along the lines of the thickness gauge with a hacksaw with a butt. Do not cut too deep as this will weaken the connection.
7. Working with a chisel from the end, remove the waste. Check fit and adjust if necessary.
Half tree connections
Half-timber connections refer to frame connections, which are used to connect parts in layers or along an edge. The connection is made by taking the same amount of material from each part so that they are joined flush with each other.
Types of joins in half-tree
There are six main types of connections in the half-tree: transverse, angular, dark, angular on the mustache, dovetail and splicing.
Making a half-tree gusset
1. Align the ends of both parts. On the top side of one of the parts, draw a line perpendicular to the edges, stepping back from the end to the width of the second part. Repeat on the underside of the second piece.
2. Set the thicknesser at half the thickness of the parts and draw a line on the ends and edges of both parts. Mark the waste on the top side of one and the bottom side of the other part.
3. Clamp the part in a vise at an angle of 45° (face vertically). Carefully cut along the grain close to the thicknesser line on the back side until the saw is diagonal. Flip the piece over and continue sawing gently, gradually raising the saw handle until the saw lines up with the shoulder line on both edges.
4. Remove the part from the vise and place it on the face. Press it firmly against the hutch and clamp it with a clamp.
5. Saw through the shoulder to the previous cut and remove the waste. Align all irregularities in the sample with a chisel. Check the accuracy of the cut.
6. Repeat the process on the second piece.
7. Check the fit of the parts and, if necessary, level with a chisel. The connection must be rectangular, flush, without gaps and backlashes.
8. The connection can be strengthened with nails, screws, glue.
Corner joints on the mustache
Corner joints on the mustache are made using the bevel of the ends and hide the end grain, and also aesthetically correspond more to the angular rotation of the decorative overlay.
Types of corner connections on the mustache
To perform bevel ends in corner connection the angle at which the parts meet is divided in half. In a traditional joint, this angle is 90°, so each end is cut at 45°, but the angle can be either obtuse or sharp. In uneven corner joints, parts with different widths are connected to the mustache.
Making a corner connection
1. Mark the length of the parts, keeping in mind that it should be measured on the long side, as the bevel will reduce the length inside the corner.
2. Having decided on the length, mark the line at 45° - on the edge or on the face, depending on where the bevel will be cut.
3. With a combination square, transfer the markup to all sides of the part.
4. When cutting by hand, use a miter box and a hacksaw with a back or a hand miter saw. Press the part firmly against the back of the miter box - if it moves, the bevel will turn out uneven and the joint will not fit well. If you are sawing freehand, be careful not to deviate from the marking lines on all sides of the part. A miter saw, if you have one, will make a very neat bevel.
5. Place the two pieces together and check the fit. You can correct it by trimming the surface of the bevel with a planer. Firmly fix the part and work with a sharp planer, setting a small overhang of the knife.
6. The connection should be knocked down with nails through both parts. To do this, first lay the parts on the face and drive nails into the outer side of the bevel so that their tips slightly show out of the bevels.
Start nails in both parts so that the tips protrude slightly from the surface of the bevel.
7. Apply glue and squeeze the joint tightly so that one part protrudes slightly - overlaps the other. First, drive nails into the protruding part. Under hammer blows when driving nails, the part will move slightly. Surfaces must be level. Nail the other side of the connection and sink the nail heads. Check squareness.
Drive the nails into the protruding piece first, and the impact of the hammer will move the joint into position.
8. If there is a small gap due to unevenness, smooth the connection on both sides with a round screwdriver rod. This will move the fibers, which will close the gap. If the gap is too large, then you will either have to redo the connection, or close the gap with putty.
9. To strengthen the corner connection, the mustache can be glued inside the corner wooden block if it is not visible. If appearance is important, then the connection can be made on a plug-in spike or secured with veneer dowels. Pins or lamellas (standard flat studs) can be used inside the flat joints.
Splicing on a mustache and connection with cutting
Splicing on a mustache connects the ends of parts located on the same straight line, and a connection with a cut is used when it is necessary to connect two profile parts at an angle to each other.
Mustache splicing
When splicing with a mustache, the parts are connected by the same bevels at the ends in such a way that the same thickness of the parts remains unchanged.
Cutting connection
Connection with cutting (cutting, fitting) is used when it is necessary to connect two parts with a profile in the corner, for example, two skirting boards or cornices. If the part moves during its fastening, then the gap will be less noticeable than with a corner joint.
1. Fix the first skirting board in place. Move the second plinth close to it, located along the wall.
Fasten the first skirting board in place and press the second skirting board against it, aligning it with the wall.
2. Swipe on profile surface fixed baseboard with a small wooden block with a pencil pressed against it. The pencil will leave a marking line on the plinth to be marked.
With a bar with a pencil pressed against it, attached with a tip to the second plinth, draw along the relief of the first plinth, and the pencil will mark the line of the cut.
3. Cut along the marking line. Check fit and adjust if necessary.
Complex profiles
Lay the first plinth in place and, placing the second plinth in the miter box, make a bevel on it. The line formed by the profile side and the bevel will show the desired shape. Cut along this line with a jigsaw.
Eyelet connections
Eyelet connections are used when it is required to join intersecting parts located "on the edge", either in a corner or in the middle (for example, the corner of a window frame or where a table leg meets a crossbar).
Eyelet Types
The most common types of eye connections are angle and tee (T-shaped). For strength, the connection must be glued, but you can strengthen it with a dowel.
Making an eyelet connection
1. Make a marking in the same way as for, but divide the material thickness by three to determine one third. Mark the waste on both parts. On one part, you will need to choose the middle. This groove is called an eyelet. On the second part, both side parts of the material are removed, and the remaining middle part is called a spike.
2. Saw along the fibers to the line of the shoulders along the marking lines on the side of the waste. Cut the shoulders with a hacksaw with a butt, and you get a spike.
3. Working on both sides, select the material from the eyelet with a chisel/grooving chisel or jigsaw.
4. Check the fit and fine-tune with a chisel if necessary. Apply adhesive to the joint surfaces. Check squareness. Use a C-clamp to clamp the joint while the adhesive cures.
Spike-to-socket connection
Spike-to-socket connections, or just spike connections, are used when two parts are connected at an angle or at an intersection. It is probably the strongest of all frame joints in carpentry and is used in the manufacture of doors, window frames and furniture.
Types of spike-to-socket connections
The two main types of stud joints are the usual stud-to-socket connection and the stepped stud-to-socket connection (semi-dark). The spike and socket are approximately two-thirds of the width of the material. The expansion of the nest is made on one side of the groove (semi-darkness), and a spike step is inserted into it from its corresponding side. The semi-darkness helps to prevent the thorn from turning out of the socket.
Standard spike-to-socket connection
1. Determine the position of the connection on both parts and mark on all sides of the material. The markup shows the width of the intersecting part. The spike will be at the end of the crossbar, and the socket will go through the post. The spike should have a small allowance in length for further stripping of the connection.
2. Pick up a chisel as close as possible in size to a third of the thickness of the material. Set the thickness gauge to the size of the chisel and mark the nest in the middle of the rack between the previously marked marking lines. Work from the front. If desired, you can set the thickness solution to a third of the thickness of the material and work with it on both sides.
3. In the same way, mark the spike on the butt and both sides to mark the shoulders on the crossbar.
4. Clamp a piece of wood secondary support in a vise high enough to attach the edge-on stand to it. Fasten the post to the support by placing the clamp next to the marking of the nest.
5. Cut out the nest with a chisel, making an inward allowance of about 3 mm from each of its ends so as not to damage the edges when sampling waste. Hold the chisel straight and parallel
its edges are the plane of the rack. Make the first cut strictly vertically, placing the sharpening bevel towards the middle of the socket. Repeat from the other end.
6. Make a few intermediate cuts, holding the chisel at a slight angle and bevel down. Select the waste by using the chisel as a lever. Going deeper by 5 mm, make more cuts and select a waste. Continue until about half the thickness. Flip the part over and work the same way on the other side.
7. After removing the main part of the waste, clean the nest and cut off the allowance left earlier to the marking lines on each side.
8. Cut the spike along the fibers, leading a hacksaw with a butt along the marking line from the side of the waste, and cut out the shoulders.
9. Check fit and adjust if necessary. The shoulders of the cleat must fit snugly against the post, and the joint must be perpendicular and free from play.
10. Wedges can be inserted on both sides of the spike to secure. A gap for this is made in the nest. Working with a chisel from the outside of the nest, widen about two thirds of the depth with a 1:8 slope. Wedges are made with the same bias.
11. Apply glue and press firmly. Check squareness. Apply glue to the wedges and drive them into place. Saw off the tenon allowance and remove excess glue.
Other spike connections
Stud joints for window frames and doors are somewhat different from half-dark stud joints, although the technique is the same. Inside there is a fold and / or an overlay for glass or a panel (panel). When making a connection with a spike into a socket on a part with a seam, make the plane of the spike in line with the edge of the seam. One of the shoulders of the crossbar is made longer (to the depth of the fold), and the second is shorter so as not to block the fold.
Studded joints for parts with overlays have a cut-off shoulder to match the profile of the overlay. Alternatively, you can remove the trim from the edge of the socket and make a bevel or cut to match the counterpart.
Other types of spike-to-socket connections:
- Side spike - in the manufacture of doors.
- A hidden beveled spike in semi-darkness (with a beveled step) - to hide the spike.
- With a spike in the dark (steps of a spike on its two sides) - for relatively wide parts, such as bottom trim(bar) doors.
All these connections can be through, or they can be deaf, when the end of the spike will not be visible from reverse side racks. They can be reinforced with wedges or dowels.
Rallying
Wide, high-quality wood is becoming increasingly difficult to find and very expensive. Moreover, such wide boards are subject to very large shrinkage deformations, which makes it difficult to work with them. To connect narrow boards along the edge into wide panels for worktops or workbench covers, rallying is used.
Preparation
Before starting the actual rallying, you must do the following:
- If possible, select radial sawn boards. They are less susceptible to shrinkage than lumber. tangential sawing. If boards of tangential sawing are used, then lay their sound side alternately in one and the other side.
- Try not to bundle materials with different ways sawing into one panel.
- In no case do not rally the boards from different breeds wood if not dried properly. They will shrink and crack.
- If possible, arrange the boards with the fibers in one direction.
- Be sure to cut the material to size before stapling.
- Use only good quality glue.
- If the wood will be polished, adjust the texture or color.
Rallying for a smooth fugue
1. Lay all boards face up. To facilitate subsequent assembly, mark the edges with a continuous pencil line drawn at an angle along the joints.
2. Plan straight edges and check the fit to the corresponding adjacent boards. Align the ends or pencil lines each time.
3. Make sure that there are no gaps and that the entire surface is flat. If you squeeze the gap with a clamp or putty it, the connection will subsequently crack.
4. When planing short parts, clamp two in a vise front sides together and plan both edges at the same time. It is not necessary to maintain the squareness of the edges, since when docking they will mutually compensate for their possible inclination.
5. Prepare as for a butt joint and apply adhesive. Squeeze with lapping to connect the two surfaces, squeezing out excess glue and helping the surfaces to “stick” to each other.
Other payment methods
Other fusion joints with different amplifications are prepared in the same way. These include:
- with pins (dowels);
- in a groove and a comb;
- in a quarter.
Bonding and clamping
Gluing and fixing glued parts is an important part of woodworking, without which many products will lose strength.
Adhesives
The adhesive reinforces the connection, holding the parts together so that they cannot be easily pulled apart. Be sure to wear protective gloves when handling adhesives and follow the safety instructions on the packaging. Clean the product of excess glue before it sets, as it can dull the planer knife and clog the abrasive of the skin.
PVA (polyvinyl acetate)
PVA glue is a universal glue for wood. When still wet, it can be wiped off with a cloth dampened with water. It perfectly sticks together loose surfaces, does not require long-term fixation for setting and sets in about an hour. PVA gives a fairly strong bond and sticks to almost any porous surface. Gives a permanent bond, but is not heat and moisture resistant. Apply with a brush, and on large surfaces, dilute with water and apply paint roller. Since PVA glue has water base, then shrinks when set.
contact adhesive
Contact adhesive sticks together immediately after application and connection of parts. Apply it to both surfaces and when the glue is dry to the touch, join them. It is used for laminate (laminate) or veneer to chipboard. Fixing is not required. Cleaned with solvent. Contact adhesive is flammable. Work with it in a well ventilated area to reduce the concentration of fumes. Not recommended for outdoor use, as it is not moisture and heat resistant.
Epoxy adhesive
Epoxy is the strongest adhesive used in woodworking and the most expensive. It is a two-component resin-based adhesive that does not shrink on setting and softens when heated and does not creep under load. Water-resistant and bonds almost all materials, both porous and smooth, with the exception of thermoplastics, such as polyvinyl chloride (PVC) or plexiglass (organic glass). Suitable for outdoor work. In the uncured form, it can be removed with a solvent.
hot glue
Hot melt adhesive bonds almost everything, including many plastics. Usually sold in the form of glue sticks that are inserted into a special electric glue gun for gluing. Apply glue, join surfaces and squeeze for 30 seconds. Fixing is not required. Cleaned with solvents.
Clips for fixation
Clamps come in a variety of designs and sizes, most of which are called clamps, but usually only a couple of varieties are needed. Be sure to place a piece of wood waste between the clamp and the product to avoid denting from applied pressure.
Gluing and fixing technique
Before gluing, be sure to assemble the product “dry” - without glue. Lock if necessary to check connections and dimensions. If everything is fine, disassemble the product, placing the parts in a convenient order. Mark the areas to be glued and prepare the clamps with the jaws/stops set apart to the desired distance.
Frame assembly
Spread the adhesive evenly with a brush on all surfaces to be glued and quickly assemble the product. Remove excess adhesive and secure assembly with clips. Compress the connections with even pressure. The clamps must be perpendicular and parallel to the surfaces of the product.
Position the clamps as close as possible to the connection. Check the parallelism of the crossbars and align if necessary. Measure the diagonals - if they are the same, then the rectangularity of the product is maintained. If not, then a slight but sharp blow to one end of the rack can even out the shape. Adjust clamps if necessary.
If the frame does not lie flat on a flat surface, use a mallet to tap the protruding sections through a piece of wood as a spacer. If that doesn't work, you may need to loosen the clamps or clamp the wood block across the frame.
