Do-it-yourself street toilet. How to build a toilet in the country: drawings, dimensions. Detailed diagrams of the toilet Hut and Birdhouse. Materials and upholstery

Even if you do not have a permanent or even temporary house in your summer cottage, nevertheless, there is a need to build a restroom. The "call of nature" can make itself felt even if you went out of town for just a couple of hours in order to water the plants and cultivate the land. The most optimal in this case will be the creation of a toilet with your own hands. Instructions how to build country toilet, quite simple, and the cost of materials is quite small.

The country toilet is fundamentally different from similar buildings of 20 years and even 10 years ago. And this is not just a fashion trend:

1. The ecological situation is getting worse every time, and sanitary requirements are becoming more stringent. And traditional solutions do not always correspond to them.
2. Technologies do not stand still and the technology of processing and neutralization of waste products also. Achievements in this area have long been available in everyday life.
3. Most people have more and more demands on the quality of life, and this includes not only comfort and ergonomics, but also external aesthetics and design.

According to these points, we will figure out how to build an outdoor toilet with your own hands.

Before you make a toilet in the country with your own hands, which will meet such requirements as comfort, cleanliness, hygiene, and besides that, also please the eye with your appearance, you have to deal with the following tasks:

1. Determine the type of system for draining, draining and utilizing wastewater based on local conditions.
2. Choose a place where the toilet will be located on the site.
3. Choose how the ground structure will look externally.
4. Choose decoration what relevant details are available in this case.
5. Summarize future construction costs.

It is worth noting that all the above points are interconnected, and it is necessary to deal with them simultaneously.

Of course, a do-it-yourself street toilet in the country cannot compare with a normal bathroom, providing only minimal comfort. But without it, it can be spoiled summer rest, it will also be problematic to work normally on the site.

There are a number of sanitary and hygienic requirements that must be observed during this construction. Therefore, it is strongly recommended to study them before starting the device of a country toilet.

Sanitary and hygienic standards for the construction of a toilet in the country

Building an outdoor toilet is a fairly simple task, especially after a detailed study of the instructions on how to build a toilet in the country, you don’t even need to seek help from specialists. However, during such construction, it is still worth remembering some features.

Basic requirements for the construction of a toilet on the street:

1. The main thing is to make sure that the construction of the toilet will not cause inconvenience to the neighbors.
2. The place for the installation of the structure must be selected very carefully. This stage of the construction of the structure must be carried out, following all sanitary standards regarding the location of the bathroom. Violation of these rules can lead to serious pollution of the surrounding area (soil, groundwater), which can cause serious health problems, and you can also earn a serious fine from the sanitary service.
3. During the period of drawing up the scheme, you need to consider the way in which the cesspool will be emptied.
4. There are some factors that limit the choice of design. The main one of which is the water horizon of the suburban area. In the case when the level of occurrence ground water quite high, the cesspool must be carefully sealed completely.

Compliance with these simple rules will help to get rid of further problems during operation.

Now you can proceed directly to the study of various types of country toilets and the features of their construction.

Homestead pit latrines

Garden toilets for summer cottages, whose design is based on the use of a cesspool, are perhaps the most popular and most common. This type of restroom is found not only in summer cottages, but also in the courtyard in the village.

During the construction of this structure, usually there are no difficulties, since the sewer system in this case is replaced by a deep pit for a toilet in the country. Liquid waste should accumulate here, which is disposed of by gradual absorption into the soil and evaporation. But from time to time it will be necessary to use the services of a sewage machine, which will help to completely clean and empty the cesspool.

The quality of the construction, the depth and width of the pit determine how often you have to use the services of vacuum trucks. This procedure can be quite rare. Most often, this problem is solved by filling the hole. After that, the waste collection tank is dug out again.

An elevated toilet house for a summer residence can be made from a wide variety of materials:

• metal profile;
• boards;
• logs;
• slate sheets;
• bricks, etc.

An important component of a quality design is a solid frame and the presence of high-quality ventilation.

How to independently build a wooden toilet according to the drawings?

Most Owners summer cottages prefer to make structures from wood. This is all due to the fact that the manufacture wooden frame a fairly simple and wooden bathroom in the country does not require special skills and knowledge, while the cost of materials is quite low, unless, of course, you decide to build a toilet from a log.

A wooden toilet can be made by stylizing it as a fairy-tale house or hut, which is why this design will not only have a functional value, but will become a very beautiful addition to the site. To finish the frame, you can use lining instead of boards. This solution will give the ground part of the restroom a stylish and aesthetic appearance.

Notice! The main advantage of a wooden structure is its mobility. If the hole is filled up in order to dig it elsewhere, in this case it is not necessary to re-erect the above-ground part from scratch, you can simply move the frame to the place that you have prepared for the new toilet.

In the case of choosing this material, it is necessary to remember the disadvantages that wood has. It can be subjected to a number of negative influences that shorten the life of a wooden structure. If you decide to make a country toilet out of wood, then consider the list of negative factors:

• exposure to direct sunlight (due to their exposure, the tree cracks, deforms and cracks);
• prolonged exposure to ultraviolet radiation on the surface of the wood leads to its burnout;
• humidity, this factor constantly accompanies the operation of any toilet, because of it deformation may occur in the frame;
• fungi and mold, this factor that develops under the influence of the previous (humidity) in the wood, due to which dampness, unpleasant odors appear in the wood and the process of decay begins.

Special protective impregnations will help prevent premature wear of the summer toilet in the garden from the influence of various negative factors during operation. In order to increase the service life of boards or other materials based on wood, it is recommended to paint them with a special composition that is designed for outdoor conditions.

Wood must be primed before painting. For connoisseurs of the natural look of wood, it is recommended to use a colorless varnish as a protective material. It will help preserve the natural pattern of wood and protect the constructed frame from moisture.

Do-it-yourself restroom with a metal profile cabin

The toilet is made of metal profile, has several construction methods. The first way is the one whose drawing is based on the principle of building a wooden frame. Another option involves the use of metal profile pipes in order to create a base, pipes arranged in a frame are interconnected by welding. To do this, you must have a welding machine and skills to work with it.

After that, a metal or wooden frame is sheathed with profile sheets. Self-tapping screws or rivets can be used as fasteners. It is also recommended to buy special protective washers for self-tapping screws, they will help prevent moisture from entering the fastener, thereby saving it from rust damage.

Despite the simplicity of the construction of this building, it has one significant drawback: in summer, the structure heats up very much. Because of this factor, it would be best to arrange a toilet of a similar design in the shade.

Advice! Experienced summer residents make the inner lining of polystyrene foam sheets. They will keep the interior cool.

Profiled metal sheets are covered with a special protective layer at the factory. Because of this, this material is reliably protected from moisture. Therefore, profile sheets can be safely used on outdoors. The biggest advantage of a toilet from a profile can be called, perhaps, the speed of its installation, which is why it has become so popular with users.

Drawings of a brick toilet booth

The construction of a brick structure for a toilet is due to some difficulties. Firstly, it is worth saying goodbye to the possibility of transferring the structure to another place if necessary. Therefore, first of all, it is worthwhile to carefully study the various projects of a do-it-yourself country restroom, drawings, as well as the features of the site itself.

In essence, a brick closet is a capital building, the repair of which can not be remembered for a single dozen years. The cost of its construction is much more than for a similar structure made of profiled sheet or wood. But if there are remnants of brick after building a house or garage, you can save a lot.

Worth noticing! In the case of building a latrine on personal plot from the same brick that the house and garage will create a single harmonious picture of the exterior, which will look quite impressive and beautiful.

Considering that the weight of the finished brick toilet with your own hands according to the drawings with the dimensions of the building is large enough, under it, as mentioned above, it is necessary to lay a solid and massive foundation.

• minimum earthwork;
• minimum consumption of cement for the production of concrete for pouring;
• high level of security;
• reliability (suitable for almost any type of soil).

For structures made of lighter materials (for example, slate), you can use a columnar foundation.

Features of outdoor toilets without a pit

The simplest and most budgetary option for solving problems with a toilet in a summer cottage is the arrangement of a sewage pit. But even with this option, there are some limitations when creating such structures. Construction of toilets cesspool limited to the following rules:

• the basis of the soil on the plot is shale or limestone soil;
• the groundwater horizon is fairly close to the surface;
• the latrine is expected to be operated by a large number of people.

These factors prohibit the construction of a toilet based on a cesspool at their summer cottage. To solve this problem, you can equip the restrooms of a completely different type, which are based on a completely different principle of operation.

Types of latrines without the use of a waste pit:

• play closet;
• powder closet;
• dry closet or chemical toilet.

Each design has its own nuances: device, construction methods, requirements that are imposed during operation.

Detailed information can be found in the article: "- the dream of many summer residents."

How to choose a place to build a closet?

Before you start designing a drawing and drawing up a rough plan for the structure itself, you need to take care of the correct location.

The following conditions can seriously affect the installation of the structure:

1. The distance between the toilet and the water source must be at least 30 meters. Ideally, water should be as far away from this place as possible. In some cases, the geolocation of the water source may be located below the level of the toilet. In this case, the structure must be moved to another place, and the way out of this situation may be to move the latrine below the water source.
2. Cellars or basements. If placed, these structures can be located on the same level as the toilet. In this case, the restroom must be removed from these buildings by at least 15 meters.
3. Residential premises and other buildings should be at least 8 meters apart.
4. Animal habitats should be located at least 5 meters away.
5. Green spaces are recommended to be planted at a distance of 1 meter.
6. Before the fence that separates your site from the neighboring one, the distance to the toilet should be at least 1 meter.

The direction of the wind also plays a significant role. Care must be taken to ensure that the unpleasant smell from the toilet does not annoy your neighbors. If the site is located on a slope, the optimal location of the toilet is the lowest point.

Construction of a waste pit

After the site has been selected and prepared, you can begin to dig a cesspool. Usually it has a square shape and its depth should be at least 2 meters.

There are two types of cesspools:

1. Sealed. The bottom of such a pit is concreted before being reinforced, and in order to avoid the possibility that the reinforcement may sink in concrete, it is first placed on pegs. The walls also need to be sealed, puttied, and the seams should be covered with bitumen.
2. Absorbing. This type of pit must be dug to the sand, this will contribute to a faster departure of the liquid fraction of sewage into the soil. The bottom is covered with a layer of pebbles or large gravel.

There are several ways to strengthen the walls of the cesspool:

• brickwork;
• concrete structure;
• prefabricated reinforced concrete rings;
• plastic tank.

On top of the pit, it is covered with bars, slate or concreted, only the area allocated for the toilet seat should remain open, then proceed to the construction of the above-ground structure.

Advice! In order to be able to operate the cesspool for a longer time, it is not recommended to throw toilet paper and other hygiene or household items into it; for this, a specially designated bucket should be in the toilet.

General instructions for building a toilet booth

The optimal dimensions of a country toilet can be considered 1 × 1.5 meters with a building height of 2.2-2.5 meters. Otherwise, during its use, you may experience some inconvenience, especially for people with a large physique. It is not at all necessary to start designing a toilet drawing on your own, if there are no special requirements or ideas, it is recommended to use ready-made ones.

First of all, the convenience of the scheme lies in the fact that it can be used to accurately calculate in advance required amount building materials and the preliminary cost of the yard bathroom.

Consider how to build a country toilet with your own hands step by step:

• Frame base. It is better to push the above-ground structure a little above the cesspool, about 2/3 forward. In this way, it can be accessed from behind for cleaning. The stability of the structure will help provide a shallow foundation. For waterproofing, 1-2 layers of roofing material are laid between it and the frame. But when building a wooden structure, this is not necessary. The base can simply be marked on concrete blocks.

You can also install four support pillars. To do this, it is necessary to dig four holes in the corners of the future structure, the depth of which should be about 60 cm, if the soil is soft, it can go deep up to 1 meter, after which it is necessary to install asbestos pipes in them. Next, the pit is filled by a third with cement mortar. After that, a support beam is installed in the pipe and the pit is completely filled with concrete.

• Wood frame assembly. For the construction of this design, bars of 50 × 50 or 80 × 80 mm in size are perfect, it makes no sense to take large bars.

1. First, a rectangular support with a jumper is assembled, on which the front wall of the toilet seat will be installed, the jumper is screwed to the support posts or to the foundation. A board is laid on top. The thickness of the floor board should not be less than 3 cm.
2. The frame of the future walls is assembled from the timber. At the same time, the height of the front wall should be about 10 cm more than the back wall in order to provide the desired slope for the roof.
3. To strengthen the structure, it is necessary to make diagonal braces on the side and rear walls.
4. The front wall must have a reinforcement for the door of the required size, and you also need to make a hole for the window.
5. The frames are fixed on the base with metal corners, a strapping is made from above at the level of the toilet seat.

The next step is to assemble the frame for the toilet seat and trim it, but this is done when other options are not provided, for example, a floor-mounted toilet.

• Frame sheathing. The frame is sheathed wooden planks. In order to save material, vertical sheathing is recommended, but horizontal sheathing is more beautiful and looks more attractive. The boards are tightly fitted to each other and attached to the base. Instead of wood, you can also use sheets of corrugated board, slate, or some other material that is most affordable.
• Roof. The boundaries of the roof should not exceed the boundaries of the walls by more than 30 cm. Installation begins after the parallel boards are fixed at a short distance. Next, you need to sew up the visor from below, attaching boards from the outside along the perimeter for this. After that, it is necessary to lay a layer of waterproofing on a pre-prepared base, as a rule, roofing material is used for waterproofing. After that, the structure can be covered with any roofing material (metal profile, slate, shingles).
• Exhaust ventilation. As an exhaust hood in a country toilet, you can imagine a pipe whose task is to remove odors from a cesspool. Its lower edge is inserted into the pit, and the upper one is raised above the roof by at least 20 cm. To solve this problem, you can use a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm. It is attracted to the back wall from the inside or outside and is fixed with metal clamps. To enhance traction, a deflector nozzle is mounted on the head.
• Toilet door installation. Doors can be installed as ordinary wooden or plastic doors, or they can be constructed from the same material as the entire above-ground structure. After that, the door is hung on 2 hinges. You can choose the method of locking the door to your taste, usually for these purposes they use a latch, hook or latch, which are installed both from the inside and outside. It is better to refuse more complex locking methods, for example, latch locks, because due to the constant influence of moisture, it will rust quite quickly and can jam at the most inopportune moment.
• Lighting. For greater comfort, it is recommended to take care of the interior lighting in advance. For these purposes, you can use a wall flashlight that runs on battery power. Other summer residents carry out full-fledged lighting by stretching the cable and installing a light bulb with a switch. During the day, a small window can easily cope with this task. It is usually cut at the top of the doors or above them, but in fact there are enough options here, from figured windows on the walls to a transparent roof.

Summer residents, for whom the usual design of the house is not enough, can use drawings of more interesting designs, you can make them yourself, or buy ready-made toilet houses that are assembled as a children's designer, and in order to facilitate this task, they are completed with assembly instructions and accompanying drawings.

(Certej_budka_dver)

Where does the arrangement of a summer cottage begin? Well, sir, you have questions. From the toilet, of course (option: “Hey, well, you asked! From the push, a no brainer!”). So let's see what you need to know and how to do in order to quickly, without unnecessary hassle and expense, build a toilet in the country. What is it, why is it and why without it there is no way at all - see above. Therefore, we omit the typical preambles.

Trends of the times

The country toilet today is not at all the same as it was 20 or even 10 years ago. And it's not just fashion:

• The environmental situation as a whole has deteriorated and, accordingly, sanitary requirements have become tougher. Traditional solutions do not always fit into them.
• There has been a real revolution in the technology of recycling and neutralization of waste, and many of its achievements are available in everyday life.
• People's demands for quality of life have increased, including not only comfort with ergonomics, but also external design.

Based on this, we will figure out how to build a country toilet with our own hands. With one small caveat: we will only touch on brick and concrete structures in passing: this is already capital construction with all the ensuing requirements. At the summer cottage, it is possible to build a separate warm capital toilet only in exceptional cases due to the small land area. But let's dwell on architectural design the most necessary structure, which is included in the quality of life, and the toilet in this respect is one of the most difficult objects. If not the hardest. However, amenable to decision; for an example, see fig.

Note: toilets from a profiled sheet on a metal frame, frankly, are uncomfortable - in summer it is parko, in the off-season it is cold. Good metal cabins are made mainly of industrial production with insulation and inner lining. Then the production cycle is cheaper than carpentry. If you are still interested in this aspect, then the home-made upper structure will be identical, and the floor with a toilet seat will be described below.

Let's look at how to bring beauty in the end. First you need to deal with the construction, and the design is already tied to it. To build a toilet that is cozy, clean, hygienic and pleasing to the eye, you must first solve other problems:

1. Select the type of system for draining, draining and utilizing wastewater based on local conditions.
2. Determine the location of the toilet on the site.
3. Choose the type and design solution of the ground structure; simply - cabins or booths.
4. Deal with its decorative design: which of the appropriate in this case will be able to do.
5. Estimate construction costs.

I must say that these problems are closely interconnected and you need to deal with them together. A little aside there is only a booth; it almost does not interact with the underground part and the base. So the toilet cabin can be made, in general, whatever you like, and this is the easiest and cheapest part of the work. Therefore, we will start with it.

Booth

The main material for the construction, as mentioned above, we take a tree. The fact that it is inexpensive, easily processed, keeps heat well, breathes, and after simple processing (see below) remains harmless to humans, but becomes resistant to bad weather and becomes unsuitable for settlement different kind infection is known. However, there are still circumstances due to which a wooden toilet is the best solution for giving.

About foundations and supports

The soil is considered suitable for construction if its bearing capacity without additional measures to strengthen it and the foundation is at least 1.7 kg sq. see Convert to square meters; we get 17 tons (!). The area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe toilet cabin in terms of rarely exceeds 2.5-3 square meters. m; hozbloka - 15-20 sq. m. Is it conceivable that they weigh 40-50 and 250-350 tons, respectively?

Go ahead. Soil is considered excessively heaving when it freezes by 12%. We take the thickness of the humus layer, which swells the most, at 50 cm; this is not a cottage, but an eldorado. 50x0.12 \u003d 6 cm. On homogeneous loose soils, a uniformly swelling surface is considered to be one whose horizontal size is equal to 100 absolute values ​​of heaving; in this case - 600 cm or 6 m.

Are there toilets or change houses larger than 6x6 m in plan? We conclude: a toilet in a summer cottage can be built without a foundation. With seasonal ground movements, it will simply rise and fall by less than 10 cm (and most likely by 3-4), without warping at all, which is completely imperceptible.

Moreover, it is not necessary to build a foundation for a toilet: taking into account the allotment of land for a construction site with excavation, at least a hundred square meters is withdrawn from the economic turnover. And if the site is already planted, what to do? And from a construction point of view: an unloaded foundation buried in the ground can warp and tilt more than the soil surface. The reason is the uneven and inhomogeneous freezing of its layers. The foundation tape, piles or pillars feel it, in contrast to the surface, immediately “with the whole body”.

Note: therefore, builders strive to finish the foundations early in order to build as much as possible before the cold weather more walls. An exception is the foundations of a large depth, they can winter without restrictions.

The conclusion “without a foundation” is known to summer residents without calculations with special knowledge. Toilet cabins are placed on bricks or ready-made small reinforced concrete monoliths. However, it would be best to put an outdoor toilet on a couple of concrete posts for trellises. They are sold not only in the southern regions for vineyards; in colder places they go under hops and other climbing crops.

Tapestry poles are produced with a length of 1.2-6 m, with overall dimensions in plan from 10x12 to 20x30 cm. The cross section is trapezoidal, with rounded corners of the smaller side. And on the larger one - rigging eyes made of wire rod 6-12 mm. Sawed them in the middle with a grinder and gently unbent, we get the pins for attaching the cabin to the base.

Note: if the toilet is with a cesspool, then the problem of the cabin's rear support beam (wood in a chemically aggressive environment) is not only resolved by itself - it simply does not arise.

In places with strong winds, it is still advisable to make support posts from a 80x80 bar or a 40x40x2 professional pipe under the booth. Metal concrete is concreted about 30 cm deeper than the humus layer, and wooden ones are dug in to the same depth, pre-treated with very hot bitumen and wrapped with roofing material with sprinkling (rough).

Constructions

Materials and upholstery

Cabin lumber is mainly used in 4 types:

• Bar 60x60 or 80x80 - for the frame.
• Grooved board 40x (120-150) - for the floor and toilet seat.
• Edged or tongue-and-groove board 20-30 mm for external cladding.
• Edged or unedged board-twenty or slats 50x20 for roof lathing.

Sheathing board can be replaced with waterproof plywood or OSB 8-20 mm thick. In the latter case, the slats for the crate can be cut into them. It will also only be better from all sides and only a little more expensive if a tongue-and-groove magpie is put on the skin.

Sheathing with a tongue-and-groove board will show all its advantages if the cabin is sheathed with horizontal belts. But then it is absolutely necessary to orient the crests of the tongues up, and the grooves down, in order to avoid the accumulation of moisture in the tongue. In any case, the door is sheathed vertically.

Curvilinear sections, suddenly such will be required according to the conditions of registration, it is better to sheathe in a marine way with a boat board, see fig. Also, such sheathing will last longer in places with heavy rainfall, but it holds a strong wind a little worse than sheet piling. Having a jigsaw with a swivel shoe, it is easy to make a boat board from a cut one; the angle of inclination of the visor of the board is about 30 degrees. The peaks of the boards should be oriented down the slope, as in fig.

Massive, i.e. from solid wood, after cutting to size, lumber must be treated: all without exception with anti-rot preparations (biocides), and then soaked twice with a water-polymer emulsion; this inexpensive material protects the tree from moisture for many years. It is necessary to impregnate in this sequence, otherwise the PVA film will not let the biocide into the tree! And if it’s necessary, then it will prevent its volatilization and washing out. Details facing the ground or cesspool (for flooring and lining the toilet seat - under the boards) must be additionally treated with hot bitumen or bituminous mastic.

Cabin types

A wooden toilet on the street, according to the type and technology of construction, is carried out in general in 4 architectural forms; see fig.: hut, birdhouse, house, hut.

The difference between them is insignificant, but still there:

1. The hut is structurally simple, durable, resistant to wind and precipitation, the least material-intensive, but takes up more land for itself and is inconvenient: a step to the right, a step to the left - a knock on the head. And for "not knocking" you need to take the height of the ridge up to 3 m or more, so that the savings in materials disappear. The design is most appropriate primitivist-rustic.
2. birdhouse still easier than a hut, it will take no more wood, it takes a minimum of land. But the structure is weak, and the whole structure does not hold heat well and is easier to blow by the wind, this is a common drawback of all buildings with a shed roof. Doesn't suit the design. However, as a summer toilet or a section of a utility block in the backyard behind dense vegetation, a birdhouse toilet is optimal; especially due to the fact that on its roof a solar-heated water pressurized tank is placed without problems. The cabin under load at the same time acquires additional strength.
3. The house is warmer and a little stronger than a birdhouse. Materials and land require the same amount. A water tank is more difficult to attach, but almost any decoration and decoration is acceptable.
4. The hut is more complicated than the others, more material is wasted. Thanks to its faceted shape, it is very durable and can withstand any climatic conditions. Ergonomics and functionality - it can't be better: a shelf and a washstand do not take up floor space, you can also attach a hanger. By design - do everything that is only suitable for a toilet, and by itself fits into any landscape.

About sizes

The recommended sizes of cabins for a birdhouse and a house on the floor, together with a toilet seat, are from 1.2 m wide and from 1.5 m deep. For a hut with a hut, the depth is the same, but the width is taken from 0.9 m - in a hut at shoulder level (this is about 1.6 m from the floor for a person of average height in shoes), and in a hut along the floor. In block Khrushchevs there are toilets 0.7x1.1 m, then they don’t go there in warm outerwear and garden shoe covers.

Note: toilet width summer cottage weekend, it is permissible to reduce to 1 m.

In any case, there should be at least 40 cm from the head of a standing person to the nearest wall, this is important when calculating the angle of inclination of the walls of the hut. The height of the ceiling above the floor is not lower than 2.1 m, above the toilet seat - from 1.9 m. The height of the side of the seat above the floor, also based on heavy shoes, is taken more than the standard for an apartment toilet 40 cm by 5-6, up to 10 cm, t .e. 45-50 cm, depending on the height of users.

About door hinges

Cabins, a hut, a birdhouse and a house have a common drawback: if you forget to lock the door, the wind can loosen it together with the booth in just 10-20 minutes. To avoid this, it is advisable to hang the door on barn hinges, as in pos. 1-3 fig. higher. A strong hut is not afraid of this, its door can be safely hung on hidden hinges.

Building a booth

The construction of the simplest birdhouse cabin is illustrated step by step in Fig; the entire installation is carried out on nails 100 mm (for 60 mm timber) or 150 mm, for timber 80x80. Sheathing is carried out on nails 60-70 mm. The build order is:

1. The bearing belt, or corner slabs / columns are covered with a simple, without sprinkling, roofing material in 2 layers;
2. Immediately (an inexpensive roofing material that is not stabilized to UV in the light quickly deteriorates), the lower support frame is assembled from a bar. Don't forget to edit!
3. Lay the floor to the front edge of the toilet seat. On the rest of the frame, a board of the same thickness as for the floor is stuffed. Also do not forget to process, especially from the underside;
4. Prepare the front (large) and rear frames. Joints cut into half a tree;
5. The front frame and the backdrop are nailed to the bottom and tied with couplers cut into a quarter;
6. The frame of the toilet seat is made in the same way;
7. Sheathe the toilet seat, cut out the seat window (a point is a completely legal technical term) and sheathe the walls;
8. Assemble the roof sheathing;
9. They lay a roof (any hard roofing material), cut out an ace, hang a door (see below about it), sheathe the corners - you're done! Whoever is more impatient there, you can already!

The described method is far from the only acceptable one. The construction of a toilet booth is possible in other ways. For example, see a rather detailed video:

Video: do-it-yourself toilet in the country

What is a toilet ace?

This is the same figured window above the door or in its canvas. Its symbolism is now forgotten, but in the sanctimonious Middle Ages it was quite definite. The heart is not really a call for sex in a latrine, but an ace of hearts. It meant that this latrine was publicly available. Diamond - only for the fair sex! In the old days, ladies had the right to use any free cabin, and gentlemen - only for them.

There was no smell of feminism or even equality here: the same gentlemen bluntly put on chastity belts (a monstrous device in their unsanitary conditions) on those to whom they sang romances, and killing a wife for adultery was not considered a crime. Gallantry is gallantry, but take out the right of the strong and put it down! The clubs and aces of spades were not used: the churchmen and the military would be offended. In the days of the Inquisition, who knows what was even more fraught ... A nobleman would quickly stab or hack to death, and the holy fathers could send him to the stake.

More cabins

The second most demanded of the toilet cabins is the hut. Since its structure is more complicated, we present a finished project with cutting boards and calculating material consumption, see fig. Pay attention to the door: its canvas with such a system of power connections will withstand any wind and is suitable for any toilet. It is possible that the unlocked door, forgotten on weekdays, will be torn off, but the canvas will not loosen and the repair will be reduced to rehanging.

On fig. below are, for example, less detailed drawings of another birdhouse, a hut and a house. If you figure out how to build a hut, then further explanations will not be needed for them.

About the toilet in the garden

For a number of reasons, which will be discussed in more detail at the end of the article, it is advisable to build a toilet on the site, especially a hut and a house, among the trees. However, the construction of a garden toilet has some peculiarities. They are not big enough to linger on their description, so we just offer a video:

Video: building a garden toilet

Hozbloki

In dachas, it is customary to combine a toilet, shower, barn; perhaps - a summer kitchen and a shelter from the weather (if there is no house yet or a commodity cottage, where squares of land give money) in one block. At least from the point of view of the biochemistry of wastewater, this is justified: in the dacha, the share of gray water (drainage from the shower and from the kitchen) is much less relative to fecal water than in a residential building, and the volume of flow is small, so it makes little sense to think about their separate treatment. It is more profitable to process a cesspool (the hozblok allows only this option for waste disposal) with universal means. Therefore, let's see how it would be more capable to make a hozblok with a shower and a toilet for a summer residence.

Plan of the hozblok "Cheburashka"

On fig. above - a variant invented spontaneously and popularly under Khrushchev, later nicknamed "Cheburashka". Kits of parts for its assembly under the same name are still sold today. Feature - extreme simplicity, low cost and sufficient functionality with a minimum of occupied space. support poles(bar 100x100 or professional pipe 40x40x2) are dug in or concreted directly into the ground. Sheathed once with slate; now - professional sheet.

On the trail. rice. - 2 plans for household blocks are more complicated. Their larger premises can be used not only as a warehouse / barn, but also as a change house "from bad weather" with a kitchen; the presence of a window, its area and dimensions allow you to put a trestle bed and a table with a fireplace, and the wooden paneling is quite warm. It pays off with a larger occupied area and the fact that the entrance to the toilet with a shower is only from the street, there is no longer a place for a dressing room.

Finally, in fig. on the right - a utility block for construction in the corner of the site, with an open summer washbasin. The peculiarity is compactness and very tiny dimensions: the structure is brick, but if, with the same dimensions of the premises, it is made of wood, the dimensions in the plan are reduced to 2x2 m.

About the cesspool

We will talk more about cesspools, tricks in their construction and ways to do without a cesspool at all below; in general.

In the meantime - see the diagram in the figure, suitable for a yard toilet and a utility block. Pay attention to the reflector 1, it is absolutely necessary for the toilet, because. directs the discarded faeces to the front of the pit. Then they slowly slide into a pocket for pumping out, being processed by bacteria along the way. Without a reflector, the entire biocenosis in the pit will be confused, and approximately twice its volume will be needed. Gray drains are discharged into a pit without a reflector, but also into the front. A blind concrete box 4 and a clay castle 3 in the country house are also absolutely necessary to prevent infiltration into the soil, and the purpose of the inspection and cleaning door 2 does not require explanation.

How about at home?

It is understandable, recovering in warmth - in goodness is not only more comfortable, but also healthier. However, it is quite possible to arrange a country toilet in the house, but before a number of problems will need to be addressed.

The first is a cesspool. It is unrealistic to divert wastewater into a well with infiltration into the ground; according to the current sanitary rules, then you will need to maintain distances:

• From water sources at least 30 m, and with normal middle lane geology - 50-80 m.
• From stagnant water bodies and plantings of food crops - from 30 m.
• From rivers and streams - from 15 m.
• From buildings and roads - at least 5 m.
• From non-fruit trees, bushes and the border of the site - from 2 m.

All this applies not only to their own, but also to neighboring facilities that are prone to pollution. Neighborhood even more, tk. in the event of a conflict, the whole truth according to the law will be on their side. That is, a home-country toilet must be built with a cesspool of a deaf type, which requires periodic pumping. It must be said that with the help of modern means for cesspools, it can be solved: a sanitation service outside the city has to be called no more than once a quarter, and there is always time to cooperate with neighbors in this regard.

Note: craftsmen-dacha residents did not ignore the cesspools. For example, how to make a cesspool that is feasible for self-construction, that does not cause indignation of neighbors and subsequently suitable for legalization (dacha amnesty will not last a century), see the video below:

Video: do-it-yourself cesspool

The second problem is the smell. Put flush toilet with a water trap (siphon) above the cesspool, it is impossible even in a country house with excess and completely free water supply: excess moisture will destroy the bacteria in the pit, and it will no longer be necessary to pump out planned, but emergency cleaning, with payment, except for a sanitary tank, the work of a plumber team on the road.

Toilets with a cesspool are made backlash closets; simply - with a push in the form of a funnel with a lid. But the backlash-closet does not exclude the penetration of odors into the room, if only due to jumps in draft in the ventilation and blowing it with the wind. Therefore, the cesspool of a home toilet must be ventilated not with an ordinary fan pipe, but with a breather - ventilation with forced draft, which creates a pressure below atmospheric pressure in the pit.

Putting a fan on the breather broach is a disastrous business. Household in an aggressive environment will not last long; a very expensive special one (it must be, among other things, also explosion-proof) will have to be cleaned often, and what it grows there, it’s better not to see it, let alone smell it or touch it.

It is quite easy to arrange a toilet in country house with heating; options for furnace and boiler see fig. A backlash channel with thermogradient thrust is made under the breather. In order for it to work even in the warm season, when they do not heat, the breather pipe (it must protrude at least 70 cm above the mouth of the chimney and the ridge of the roof) is made of metal and painted black, then the Sun will warm up.

However, there is also an option for seasonal cottages without heating. Recall that in the first brick Khrushchev houses, rather rough faience toilet bowls were washed clean, and many did not even keep a ruff on the farm. Why? The flush cistern was suspended from a 2.8 m high ceiling; for descent, a pear on a chain hung from it. In total, the pressure was over 2 m. A strong jet with a terrible noise demolished everything at once into the outlet.

Noise during the descent was not the last circumstance that gave rise to compact toilets. But in a classic sink with a tub, a weak jet could not wash anything at all. Then they came up with toilets with an oblique descent, see fig. on right. True, you can’t take a closer look at them - and what kind of chair I have now - and you can’t do without a ruff, but even a weak stream washes off acceptable.

The author, faced several years ago with the need to remake a country toilet, thought: it would not hurt to put something with a siphon so that it never stinks at all. The oblique unique is washed off quite cleanly with a weak stream, but what if you give it a strong one, as in Khrushchev's? Less water consumption with the same flush quality.

At first I wanted to buy a cheap compact with a tank without a dispenser (water flows while the button is pressed) and raise it higher, but then I thought: why? It is inconvenient to stretch, water is supplied according to the schedule, therefore, a pressure-storage tank is also needed. In the end, I took one sink with a downward outlet, right into the pit. Hung under the ceiling plastic barrel 50 l, and the water was supplied to the flush with two pieces of plastic corrugation through a ball valve with a handle to open it more sharply.

The result exceeded all expectations: it takes up to 3 liters of water to flush. From a 50-liter tank - 15-25 flushes per day, enough for four. The cleaning community in the pit is thriving.

Note: any of the cabins described above will withstand a 200-liter barrel under the ceiling, but it is not necessary. Users will get a taste, the pit will turn sour from excess moisture and begin to instantly overflow.

And without a pit?

Since there are such difficulties with the cesspool, is it possible to somehow make a latrine without a cesspool? It is possible and they do. Dry closets. But, firstly, any bio sewage, because. Bacteria, natural or artificial, are used to treat wastewater. Secondly, a toilet that is bio may not be bio at all. So let's understand better how it is possible to receive and process wastewater in the country without any, i.e. make a stand-alone toilet.

Autonomous public spaces are divided primarily into chemical and biological. They can be both, depending on which cartridge is connected, see below. In chemical effluents, they are processed with strong inorganic oxidizing agents or organic reagents of abiogenic origin (formalin, etc.). “Chemists” are expensive, their absorption and throughput capacity is high. The content of the spent cartridge is very toxic, its refilling and disposal is possible only by certified specialists using special equipment using protective equipment, so chemical toilets are rarely used in everyday life.

It is customary to call dry closets those in which the biocenosis of bacteria processing wastewater does not arise spontaneously, but is created by a specially sown culture. From this point of view, a deaf cesspool, processed by modern septic tanks, is also a dry closet, but we will consider options without the accumulation of liquefied sewage and not requiring pumping

Most old view successfully survived to this day - peat toilet with its kind of closet powder, it's not the same thing. Both use natural bacteria from peat bogs; conditions deep in a peat bog are very similar to those in a cesspool. Peat bacteria are inactive: they work slowly, they process effluents, based on the net volume of the culture, there is little. But they are extremely resilient, easily "fall asleep" and awaken when favorable conditions occur.

In a simple, or composting, peat closet (on the left in the figure), a 40-200 l collection container with stone drainage is placed under the backlash closet - it will absorb excess moisture, and then gradually give it away - and a breather that sucks out harmful gases. Without one or the other, a stable culture will not arise, it will either dry up and fall asleep, or turn sour and die, or get poisoned and also die.

Using a composting peat closet is simple: after sitting, peat crumbs are poured into the funnel. The collection is periodically shaken out on a compost heap, after aging for 2-3 years, the fermented and disinfected compost is suitable for fertilizer. But a composting toilet, firstly, does not guarantee against smell, and secondly, like a powder closet, see below, it cannot withstand overloads: suddenly a company showed up at the dacha to eat tightly with beer, the stench and the need complete cleaning refill guaranteed.

"Pudrum" means dust. This word and its derivatives with different prefixes in the Romano-Germanic languages ​​are generally called any powders. For example, in English gunpowder means black powder, and baby powder means baby powder for scuffs. An excerpt from J. Durrell's book My Family and Other Animals will help you understand what a powder closet is. Anyone who has read Darrell (Gerald, not his older brother Lawrence) knows that the famous naturalist is also an extraordinary writer.

So, the “absurd family” of the Durrells, in the author’s own words, decided “to improve their health” to live for a long time on the island of Corfu, now Kerkyra. While we were looking for a house for permanent housing, we stopped at a hotel. Next - see the scan from the printed text.

The box that Geralda's sister did find in her room, she probably pulled out of the powder closet. The first devices of this kind were used as chamber pots and filled with peat dust. In the form of a bucket with peat crumbs under a toilet seat, they came to us in the middle latitudes, because. a real closet powder is effective at an average daily temperature above 23 degrees, and a bucket of crumbs needs to be emptied one way or another every day or more often.

A box of a real powder-closet with a capacity of 30, and preferably from 50 liters (in the center in the figure above) is filled with pressed peat plates tightly laid vertically. In places where peat is not available and it is expensive, special paper impregnated with peat extract is used, dense and durable, but highly porous, the so-called. kraft paper. It was this kind of closet powder that the civilized, without prejudice, but not very knowledgeable Margot Durrell encountered. However, she was then in a transitional age, and, having matured, she helped her brother a lot in his useful work.

Peat toilets are sold in ready-made. Stationary ones (on the right in the figure above) can be used both as a powder closet and as a bio-toilet on artificial cultures: the drawer accommodates both a peat container and replaceable bacterial cartridges. No preparation for installation is required, the booth is simply placed where necessary. One filling with peat filler is enough for 2-3 people for 3-4 days, and with breaks for 5 days, at a weekend cottage, for 1-3 months.

Composting toilet seats are also on sale, but here you need to look both ways. First, all sorts of environmental, and in fact fraudulent societies produce products like "super-duper-eco-plus XXX" like the one on the left in Fig. They are eco-certified. But in fact it turns out that the peat dispenser needs to be filled with special granules, very expensive, otherwise it breaks right away. They do it themselves or their accomplices. A sort of outhouse Herbalife or Nature's Sushine. In general, network marketing as it is.

Sometimes, perhaps, simply out of incomprehension, under the guise of peat toilets, they sell toilet seats with a swivel cassette for special bacterial cartridges, on the right in fig. Peat can be filled in them, and you can also relieve yourself there. But if the cartridge is just changing, then how can you clean it on peat?

Autonomous toilets on microflora use highly effective bacteria obtained by genetic engineering. For humans, they are harmless and safe, proven by many years of experience, since the 80s. The culture cartridge changes on its own (the procedure is no dirtier than changing diapers), but the contents are unsuitable for fertilizer and must be recycled. To give a day off, 1 cassette is enough for the summer, for a seasonal one you will need 2-3 replacements. However, here, too, you need to choose carefully. No cheating, just all sorts of varieties.

For example, it makes no sense to take a very expensive public booth, pos. 1 in fig. at the bottom. Yes, it is warm, anti-vandal, it is able to accept a lot. But - the shelf life of any bacterial cartridge is limited, regardless of the nature of use. Culture degrades long before you use up its absorption capacity, and the cost of replacing a cassette is not small.

The second pitfall is artisanal cheap stuff, pos. 2. They take an “alternative” bio-toilet bowl (see below) cheaper, build a booth around it. Then - rapid degradation, smell, changing the cartridge for your own. The miser pays twice, as always. If we take a one-piece dry closet, then it is a country-household one, pos. 3. These are cheaper due to a smaller resource for drains, it is designed for a family.

The same applies to the bio-toilets themselves. High-capacity public, able to work on both microflora and chemistry, pos. 4, are expensive and include everything that has been said about ready-made dry closets. There are special country bio-toilets on sale, pos. 5, cheaper and designed for families. But it’s not water that can be poured into their tank (it immediately deteriorates), but a special liquid supplied to the flush literally in drops, so you need to find out how it is washed off and how much the flush costs.

Bucket toilets for summer cottages (pos. 6) come with replaceable cartridges designed for 3-5 people and 2-5 days; this is not the worst option for giving a weekend. But there are also conditionally disposable chemical ones, they are intended for traveling work, various kinds of field trips, etc. As a rule, they are rented, and when the absorber is depleted or when they return home, they are given for refueling.

Another “bio-dachny” option is a toilet bowl with a separate cartridge, pos. 7. Much cheaper than a finished toilet. Having made the cabin to your liking or buying it separately, you can get a completely hygienic room that everyone needs, pos. 8. For a dacha, this is perhaps the best option today: the cost of a toilet bowl and changing cartridges for a long time is less than a zero cycle and a cesspool for a booth.

Note: Nevertheless, a significant circumstance prevents the widespread use of dry closets - bacteria designed for small cartridges are unable to accept gray waste. Therefore, for a dacha inhabited from spring to autumn, it is still better to recommend a deaf cesspool, treated with bacteria that are not so effective and require more living space, but are omnivores.

And about design

The fact that the design follows from the functionality and should not go to the detriment of it is an elementary truth. However, the functionality of the toilet is unsightly, and this is not a complex. All living things are vulnerable when performing natural needs. Shame is just a manifestation of the instinct of self-preservation. The reproductive instinct may overpower him, but urination and defecation are not intercourse. Therefore, in the design of the toilet, you need to know very well and carefully observe the measure.

For example, you don’t need to force the toilet to repeat: “No, I’m not a toilet!”, As in pos. 1-3 fig. It's clumsily done or with high skill, it doesn't matter. You get something like an excuse for a certain character: “Boss, I didn’t steal a green crocodile lop with 185 bucks and 50 cents and a photo of a 30-year-old blonde with a school-age boy!” What followed: “And I, you sloppy cormorant, did I tell you which wallet was stolen?” Since the cabin is striking, what a secrecy of departure.

Pos. 4-6 illustrate a generally legitimate approach - disguise. We will modestly keep silent about our essence, and whoever needs it will show it or find it on its own. There is scope for design delights, but only with great experience, taste and ability to work. Otherwise, something like pos. 7-9, at the sight of which both the designer and the psychiatrist agree on one thing: this is not design.

When designing a toilet, it is best to remember: what is natural is not ugly, even if it cannot be flaunted. Specifically, natural disguise for this need: vegetation, stone, pos. 10-12. Rustic primitivism and phytodesign are by no means at enmity, pos. 11. But since the booth is larger than a person and the view from it is worse, it is advisable to place a booth of simple natural forms among the trees, pos. 10. Or, as usual in bushes, hide among small phytoforms so that it is not visible, pos. 12. In this case, this is the most natural and, therefore, the best technique. And the most hygienic.

Not a single place of residence of people can do without a toilet, and the dacha is no exception. Building a country toilet with your own hands will not be great work. A toilet for a summer residence can be arranged different ways ranging from traditional rustic to modern septic. This article will look at how to organize a place for the collection and disposal of waste and make a comfortable and beautiful toilet.

Types of toilets for summer cottages

Country toilet according to the method of device can be divided into three types: street, peat, septic tank or cesspool.

Outdoor or summer toilet for giving is a separate building with a pit under it for collecting waste - this is the simplest type, it will perfectly satisfy all the needs of the owners.

Fig.2.

Fig.3.

Its main advantage is that cleaning may not be performed for more than 10 years, due to the slow accumulation of waste. This is facilitated by its device, the pit is leaky and has ventilation. Part of the liquid fraction evaporates, and part is absorbed into the soil. Thus, the accumulation of sewage is very slow.

Fig.4.

Fig.5.

With all the advantages of an outdoor toilet, it cannot be built at a high groundwater level, more than 2.5 m. Otherwise, the water in the pit will be constant, and not only in the spring, and sewage can get into the groundwater. This is especially dangerous if the water supply of the cottage is carried out using a well. Also, certain norms are imposed on the installation of a country toilet according to the location on the site.

Peat or Finnish toilet for a summer residence- this is a structure without a pit, all sewage is accumulated in a special tank. The country toilet of the Finnish design is arranged as a separate building. It has a simple operating principle. After each use, waste products are sprinkled with peat, or a mixture of peat with ash, sawdust, and crushed bark. The mixture promotes the decomposition of sewage. As soon as the container is full, it must be emptied into a compost heap for further processing. Recycled waste is organic fertilizer which can be used for plant nutrition.

Fig.6.

Fig.7.

This species has no location restrictions. A dry composting toilet has the disadvantage of having to empty the contents regularly. Therefore, it is advisable to arrange it if the cottage is used seasonally and no more than 1 - 2 people use it constantly.

Fig.8.

Fig.9.

Fig.10.

septic tank allows you to organize a bathroom in a country house. This becomes possible thanks to a sealed cesspool, which can be installed anywhere on the site and at any level of groundwater. A septic tank makes it possible to make a toilet in the country with a toilet like in a city apartment. Unlike a country toilet, a septic tank can be used year-round. Therefore, it is usually arranged in places of permanent residence.

Fig.11.

Fig.12.

The disadvantage of a septic tank is its high cost and complexity of installation. The septic tank does not just accumulate waste, it recycles it. A septic tank can be of various designs. Depending on the type of septic tank, the percentage of processing is different, but does not reach 100%, so it is necessary to periodically pump out deposits, while doing it yourself is quite difficult. In this connection, there must be access to the septic tank for the entrance of a sewage truck.

Fig.13.

Fig.14.

Building an outdoor toilet with your own hands

Most dachas are used only in summer. Therefore, the outdoor toilet is the most popular. The construction of a country toilet with a cesspool under it will not require much effort, it is quite easy to do it yourself, and you can use improvised materials during construction.

Norms for the location of the toilet for a summer residence

The first stage of construction is the choice of a place for its installation. When choosing a place, it is necessary to take into account sanitary standards.

Fig.15.

The country toilet should be located at a distance of at least 8 m from residential buildings, at least 12 m from the cellar and at least 25 m from the source pure water(wells or wells). Therefore, it is usually placed in the far corner of the garden.

Fig.16.

Fig.17.

Sooner or later, the cesspool will fill up and the toilet will be unusable. The pit can be cleaned or the toilet moved to another location. As a rule, they choose the second option, make a new hole next to the old one and transfer the booth. Compositions with bacteria are added to the old cesspool, which in a couple of years will turn sewage into compost. The compost can be removed for fertilization and the pit can be reused.

How to make a hole for a toilet

A toilet for a summer residence begins to be erected from a cesspool device. A standard pit has a depth of 1 - 1.5 m and a width of 1 m. If the groundwater is far enough away, then the depth of the toilet pit can be greater.

Fig.18.

In order for the pit not to crumble, it is necessary to strengthen the walls. You can strengthen them with bricks, rubble, old car tires, concrete rings, or install a tank. A more durable option is concrete rings. However, the simplest, fastest and most popular is the barrel. In this design, a metal or plastic container with a volume of 200 liters is used.

Fig.19.

Crushed stone is poured at the bottom of the cesspool with a layer of 10 - 15 cm. Holes are made in the barrel through which the liquid fraction of sewage will go into the soil. A barrel is installed in a pit and covered with rubble around the perimeter. Crushed stone will act as drainage and prevent siltation of the pit. Instead of crushed stone, you can use broken brick, stone, etc. Thus, the service life of a country toilet can be significantly increased.

Fig.20.

Fig.21.

Fig.22.

How to make a foundation for a toilet cubicle

The second stage in the construction of a toilet for a summer residence is the construction of a cabin. Traditionally, the cabin is made using frame technology. First, the frame is assembled, then sheathed with clapboard, profiled sheet or siding. The frame toilet can be assembled from a wooden beam or welded from a metal profile.

Fig.23.

Fig.24.

Fig.25.

The cabin is quite light in construction, so a special foundation is not required. So that the toilet cubicle does not stand directly on the ground, it is placed on concrete blocks. In turn, concrete blocks are placed on a sand cushion 10–20 cm thick. This approach provides a reliable foundation and natural ventilation, which contributes to the absence of smell.

Fig.26.

Fig.27.

Fig.28.

The easiest way is to make a booth out of wood, because. when working with wood, no special tools, such as welding, are required. A wooden cabin will not heat up in the sun, unlike a profiled sheet toilet, and it will be comfortable to use.

Fig.29.

A wooden booth with your own hands can be made from a bar with a section from 50x50 mm to 100x100 mm. First, the base of the frame is assembled, then vertical racks are installed, after which the rafters are attached and the crate is made.

Fig.30.

Fig.31.

Fig.32.

All elements of the cabin frame are connected with self-tapping screws and construction metal corners. Outside, it is sewn up with a board, rail or block house, which makes the cabin look like a log toilet. Any roofing material can be used for roofing. The door for the toilet house can be made from boards or used ready-made.

Fig.33.

Fig.34.

toilet seat

The toilet seat can be made in various ways. Two options are most popular: a platform and a special plastic bucket. When making a platform, it is important to consider that its height should be 45 cm and a width of 60 cm. Such dimensions guarantee the convenience of using the country toilet.

Fig.35.

Fig.36.

Fig.37.

An important point to consider when building a booth is the presence of a window. The window performs two functions of lighting and ventilation. The window should not be glazed, so the house will not be hot and there will be no smell.

Fig.38.

Fig.39.

Drawings of a toilet cubicle

The toilet cubicle may have a different design, but the principle of construction is identical for everyone. Here are some examples.

Fig.40.

Fig.41.

Fig.42.

Fig.43.

Fig.44.

Fig.45.

Fig.46.

Fig.47.

Fig.48.

Fig.49.

Fig.50.

Fig.51.

Fig.52.

Cesspool toilet in the country

A septic tank, for seasonal use, is rarely done due to the high labor intensity of its device. Of course, you can buy a ready-made septic tank, but then you will have to pay a considerable amount of money for it. If the dacha is visited all year round, then the installation of a septic tank fully justifies the effort and money spent on it.

Fig.53.

A septic tank is a sealed chamber or several chambers into which waste products enter, where they accumulate and are partially processed. The main criterion for the construction of a septic tank is its volume. For a family of three, the minimum volume of a septic tank should be 1.5 cubic meters.

The simplest septic tank consists of one chamber and it is quite easy to do it yourself, because. in fact, it is a sealed cesspool, which eliminates the leakage of sewage and flooding with groundwater.

Fig.54.

Fig.55.

The procedure for constructing a cesspool for a country toilet is as follows. They dig a pit 1.5 - 2 m deep. A sand cushion 20 cm thick is poured at the bottom of the pit. concrete slab 10 cm thick, this will be the bottom of the cesspool. After that, the walls of the cesspool are erected from brick, stone or concrete. Outside, the buildings are waterproofed to protect against groundwater. A sewer pipe from the toilet is brought to the cesspool. The sewer pipe is laid with a slope of 2-3 cm per 1 m of length. On top of the pits arrange a roof. The roof can be made of wood or concrete. For year-round use, the roof of the cesspool must be insulated. When creating a roof, a hatch for pumping sewage must be provided.

Fig.56.

A simpler and faster option for creating a cesspool is to use precast concrete structures, such as rings. In this case, it is necessary to dig a pit, mount rings in it and bring a sewer pipe from the country toilet.

Fig.57.

Fig.58.

Additionally, the septic tank must be insulated and equipped with ventilation. The simplest ventilation option is to install a fan riser in the house and bring the pipe to the roof level.

A septic tank of this type is operated quite simply. Gradually, it is filled with sewage, and when 2/3 of the volume of the septic tank is filled, it is emptied by a sewage machine. This will have to be done regularly, so the septic tank must be located in a place accessible to the entrance of the sewer.

Diagrams and drawings of a homemade septic tank device

Fig.59.

Fig.60.

Fig.61.

Fig.62.

Autonomous sewerage system

An alternative to a homemade septic tank is the Tank septic tank. He is plastic barrel divided into sections. First, the first section is filled, while solid waste descends to the bottom, and only the liquid fraction remains on the surface. As it fills, the liquid fraction overflows into the adjacent section, where similar processes take place. A composition containing anaerobic bacteria that decompose sewage is added to the septic tank. The water purified in this way is drained into the drain, and the sediment is pumped out by a sewer.

Fig.63.

Another option for a septic tank with a high percentage of waste recycling is the Autonomous Sewerage septic tank. The principle of its operation is similar to a traditional septic tank, with the only exception that the autonomous sewage system is equipped with air compressor, which enriches sewage with oxygen, and the decomposition process is under the influence of aerobic bacteria. Autonomous sewage is dependent on electricity, but allows you to achieve a high degree of recycling of waste.

Fig.64.

Fig.65.

Fig.66.

The installation of the last two types of septic tank consists in preparing a pit, installing a septic tank in it and connecting it to the sewerage system of the house.

We have considered all the ways of arranging and building a toilet for a summer residence. If you plan to live or visit the cottage all year round and want to have the comfort of a city apartment, then you should immediately install a septic tank. If you visit the cottage only in the summer, then it is easier and faster to build a summer toilet with a cesspool under it. If you do not often visit the country house, then the simplest version of the toilet device is the Finnish peat toilet. Whatever version of the toilet you choose, any of them will perfectly meet your needs, and the cottage will not be left without a toilet.

The time spent in the country, as a rule, is seasonal and relatively short: usually it is 1-2 days off and, if you're lucky, part of the vacation in a certain period. In such conditions, the issue of comfortable life, if it does not fade into the background, still acquires a slightly different meaning. Today we will talk, as the name implies, about an outdoor toilet - more precisely, about its own construction.

A toilet in a summer cottage, even if the construction of a residential building is still only in the future, must be erected without fail: the needs of the human body do not know everyday conventions and can manifest themselves at any moment, even if you only visit for a couple of hours to weed and water the beds . That is why on a new site they always put a toilet in the first place.

In the most general terms, an outdoor toilet is a compact booth where a person can not only retire, but also reliably hide from the weather, as well as a certain volume where the waste products of the body are collected. As a rule, this is an ordinary cesspool, deep and spacious enough to apply for the services (paid, by the way) of a sewer as rarely as possible.

However, there are other, structurally more complex options. It is according to the method of waste disposal that the main classification takes place. Next, we will come back and talk about other types of outdoor toilets.

First, let's turn to, so to speak, the outer part of the toilet, the types of cubicles and how to make them, the most suitable for self-construction.

Classification by cabin type

The booth, or cabin of the country toilet in most cases belongs to one of four types:

1. "Birdhouse",
2. The hut, or "teremok",
3. hut,
4. House.

Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages, as well as the materials used for their construction - wood, metal profiles, slate, brick, as well as their combinations.

When planning the construction of a toilet, you do not need to come up with its own design: each type has long been developed by specialists and tested many times, and the drawings are available and contain optimal dimensions to keep it compact and yet easy to use.

"Birdhouse"

Let's start traditionally with the most, perhaps, the simplest, and therefore the most common option, called the "birdhouse" because of a certain resemblance to a bird's house: the same parallelepiped stretched upwards with a shed roof sloping back.

A typical "birdhouse" toilet

As can be judged from the drawings and photographs provided, the construction of such a toilet is simple and consists of a frame sheathed with suitable material, with a single door in the front. Most often used for frame wooden beam, from the same beam, or a smaller section, diagonal struts are made to stiffen the structure, and then everything is sheathed with boards. At the joints of the boards, narrow, 30-40 mm, “flashing” strips are traditionally stuffed so that there is no blow from the cracks that are sure to form over time, no matter how tightly you fit the boards to each other.

Use of building materials

Wood is the most accessible material that is easily processed and does not require special skills or special tools.

Metal is another matter: this material is perfect for our purposes, however, for mounting a frame made of profile pipe you will need a welding machine and good skills in electric welding. Sheathing is made with sheets of corrugated board, which are attached to self-tapping screws or rivets. Here you can not do without an electric drill, screwdriver or riveter.

Often choose the "medium" option: wooden frame sheathe metal sheets or a metal frame - chipboard or USB boards: often the determining factor is the presence suitable materials, for example, the remnants of a “big” construction site.

Familiar slate is also sometimes used as the walls of a country toilet, at least as a temporary option, until the main construction is completed. Slate is used most often as a shed roof, although, of course, the “metal” version is no worse.

Sometimes the "birdhouse" is covered with boards, which are then sheathed with roofing felt or other similar material. This, of course, is not the best option, but it can be implemented as a temporary one.

Building toilet walls out of brick is a good option, solid and expensive. Such a decision can often be seen already at the stage of ennoblement of the territory, when all residential and utility buildings have already been built. A toilet made of the same brick as the rest of the buildings in the yard will look harmonious in the overall exterior.

It should be remembered when planning to build a toilet for a summer residence with your own hands - step-by-step instructions will be special for each of the options, of which there are quite a lot. Structures can work according to different principles, and materials for construction are selected based on their cost, durability and aesthetic appeal. Experts recommend that before purchasing materials and building a toilet, not only carefully consider the chosen option, but also make the necessary calculations, find the best place for installation, draw a diagram or drawing.

When choosing a design in order to build a toilet in the country with their own hands, they are guided, first of all, by the comfort of using the building. Moreover, not only visiting the toilet should be convenient, but also its maintenance. To make right choice, you should familiarize yourself with the features of the operation of each of the options for toilets.

Pit latrines

The easiest option for waste disposal is a do-it-yourself toilet pit in the country. A house is installed above it, often called in everyday life, depending on appearance, "birdhouse" or "hut", the degree of comfort of which depends on the capabilities of the master. The pit is cleared with the help of a cesspool machine. Similar structures - not the most perfect, but due to the simplicity of the device and cost-effectiveness, they remain popular and in demand when it comes to suburban areas, where the owners appear infrequently. Pit toilets are also suitable for cottages with a small number of people.

In the photo, a diagram of the device of the toilet above the cesspool

backlash closets

Backlash-closet is an improved design of a toilet with a cesspool, its distinguishing feature is the complete tightness of the drive. The play closet can be arranged in such a way that the toilet is in a heated room (house), and the drive is outside it (usually near the wall adjacent to the toilet). The toilet bowl with the drive is connected by an inclined or vertical pipe, through which the waste flows by gravity into the tank. Due to tightness, the backlash-closet storage tank can only be cleaned with the help of vacuum trucks. play closet more convenient and hygienic than a regular toilet in a country house with a cesspool.

When arranging a play closet, the toilet is located in the room, which is an advantage of this type of construction

Powder closets

Powder closets are great in cases where when there is groundwater in the area close to the surface. This feature can cause trouble when installing other structures, but will not affect the operation of the powder closet. A significant advantage of this variant of the country toilet is the possibility at minimal cost turn waste products into environmentally friendly organic fertilizer. Powder-closet got its name from the principle of operation - the waste in the drive is sprinkled (“powdered”) with a dry composition (peat or peat-sawdust mixture). As a result, the occurrence of putrefactive processes is prevented, and the likelihood of unpleasant odors is minimized. Waste, sprinkled with peat, as the toilet tank is filled, is unloaded into compost pit where they turn into compost.

Powder closets can be stationary with bulk storage or compact portable. In the second case, a small-sized structure can be brought into the house at night or during rain.

Dry closets

The dry closets that have become popular, which are a ready-made compact toilet bowl, have really proven themselves during operation. Their principle of operation can be similar to the work of peat powder closet. Recycling and decomposition of waste in such peat dry closets occurs with the help of a peat mixture.

In other models for processing it is possible. The composition of dry or liquid fillers includes cultures of certain types of bacteria.

In chemical models, the active substances for waste decomposition are chemicals. When choosing, it should be borne in mind that safe and effective fillers are more expensive than others, and some substances used by ignorant gardeners (chlorine, formaldehyde, etc.) are prohibited due to toxicity.

Choosing a place to build a toilet

Telling how to make a toilet in the country with their own hands, experts usually place special emphasis on where it is better to place the structure. In this regard, there are absolute requirements that must be met in any case. They determine the minimum distances from the toilet to residential and utility buildings, water sources and other objects:

• to a house that has a cellar or basement, as well as to a garage or barn with similar underground structures - 12 meters,
• to the source of drinking water - 25 meters,
• to a barn without a cellar, garage or sauna - 8 meters,
• to the fence - 1 meter.

• Placing the building according to the wind rose will allow you to install the structure so that the unpleasant smell does not cause inconvenience to the owners and does not interfere with the neighbors.
• If the site is distinguished by the complexity of the terrain, it is recommended to choose a flat place for the toilet, and if there is a source of water in the country, the toilet is located below it in level.
• If it is necessary to use the services of a sewage machine for pumping out the toilet, it is necessary to provide for the possibility of its access to the cesspool, taking into account the length of the equipment hose.

Material selection

Building a toilet in the country with your own hands is possible from various materials. The choice is determined by the cost and availability of different options. For example, if an outdoor toilet is arranged as a temporary structure during the construction of a full-fledged sewer system, you can choose cheaper materials. If the cottage is visited only in the summer and an outdoor toilet is the only option, it is better to prefer reliability and durability, even if additional costs are required.

wooden models

Wooden outdoor toilets- This is probably the most common option. It combines economy and practicality, however, it should be borne in mind that wood is susceptible to moisture. To protect the material, you can use special impregnations. It is possible to significantly increase the service life of the material, primed and painted boards. Lovers of the natural texture of wood often cover structures with a transparent moisture-proof varnish.

brick toilet

A brick toilet is a capital structure that will stand without requiring repairs for decades. The cost of materials for such a construction is higher, but if you have some bricks left after building a house or garage, you should take advantage of this opportunity. If you are planning to build a brick toilet in the country with your own hands, do not forget that a massive structure requires installation on a foundation. Experts recommend choosing a strip foundation for a country toilet. It requires less excavation, reduces the consumption of cement for pouring, but ensures the reliability and safety of structures on almost any soil. Although for structures made of lighter materials, it is also possible to use a columnar foundation.

The use of corrugated board

A country toilet made of corrugated board is frame structure sheathed with sheet metal material. The corrugated board has a coating that protects it from moisture, so it can be used for outdoor buildings without any risk. The frame of the building is wooden or metal of your choice. The use of corrugated board can significantly reduce the construction time of the toilet.

Construction of a pit latrine

If you are building such a toilet for a summer residence with your own hands, the step-by-step instructions begin with the drive device.

• Digging a pit. Its volume is usually calculated based on the conditions of use (number of people, frequency and duration of visits to a summer cottage, etc.). Usually a pit with a depth of 2 meters is enough. The cross section of such a pit is a square with sides of 1 meter or a circle with a diameter of one meter. These parameters can be slightly increased, taking into account the need to strengthen the walls of the pit.
• bottom execution. by the most in a simple way may be backfilling the bottom with rubble or gravel. However, this method does not exclude the partial penetration of waste from the toilet into the soil. If groundwater is located in an area close to the surface of the earth, it is better to make the bottom impermeable, for example, by flooding it concrete mortar.
• Wall reinforcement. You can strengthen the walls of the cesspool under the toilet in the country with your own hands with brickwork, concrete rings or concrete mortar, using the flood construction technology (the mortar is gradually, no more than 50 cm in height at a time, poured into the formwork). In all cases, it is important to ensure the tightness of the structure (fill the seams between the rings, avoid gaps when performing brickwork). To protect surface water at the site from sewage entering them, the walls can be plastered or covered with a waterproofing layer for greater reliability.

Important: If the groundwater level in your area is higher than 2.5 meters, then the cesspool must be completely sealed, including the bottom.

After that, the selected house design is erected over the pit. Most often in such cases, a wooden structure is arranged.

Construction of a wooden house step by step

Toilet ventilation

Despite the fact that the correct arrangement of a country toilet with your own hands allows you to minimize the appearance bad smell, and many models exclude the occurrence of putrefactive processes in the mass of waste, a toilet in the country, made with a cesspool, or other design must be provided with ventilation.

The ventilation pipe is inserted into the drive at least 15 cm. Light and durable plastic are well suited for this purpose. sewer pipes 100 mm in diameter. For stability, they are attached from the outside to the wall of the building with metal clamps. The ventilation pipe should rise about 50 cm above the roof. Protection ventilation pipe from rain and debris occurs with the help of a deflector installed at the end of the pipe.

Construction of backlash closet

If you are deciding how to build a toilet yourself in the country, the backlash-closet should be considered as one of best options. It is very simple to implement and does not require significant expenses. At the same time, such structures are more comfortable than conventional "birdhouses" with holes.

First of all, it is important to choose a place for excavation. The waste pit, unlike many other structures, is carried out directly next to the house, since the toilet from which drains will flow will be located inside the house. So, it is required to designate a place for the toilet inside the room and a place for the drive near the adjacent wall. The depth of the pit must be at least 1 meter, and its walls must be completely waterproofed. Experts recommend making the bottom and walls of the tank from poured concrete, followed by coating the structure that has gained strength with a waterproofing layer (for example, bitumen). You can increase the reliability of waterproofing with the help of a clay castle (the thickness of the layer is at least 0.5 m).

The upper part of the toilet pit is closed with a double lid - a layer of heat insulator is installed between the layers of cast iron and wood. Gravity flow of waste can be ensured by the slope of the pipe that leads from the toilet to the storage tank (in this case, at the construction stage, it is necessary to provide an inlet for it, and after entering it, seal the seam) or by the design of the tank itself (an expanding pit with entry under the house in the direction from the toilet to the street with sloping floor). Ventilation is required for backlash closet. In the cold season, the efficiency of the hood can be ensured by the temperature difference, and in the summer it is better to use an exhaust fan.

Powder closet device

If you build such a country toilet with your own hands step by step, the instructions will be quite concise. The simplicity of the device is explained, among other things, by the fact that the powder-closet does not require the construction of a pit. For compact designs excavation are not needed at all, and for stationary ones, a recess in the ground may be required, in which a storage container (bucket or tank) will be placed. The powder-closet device is reduced to installing a container for collecting sewage under the toilet seat and supplying the toilet with a box with backfill (peat, sawdust, etc.) and a scoop. Waste should be disposed of after each visit to the restroom.

Video

How to build a toilet in the country with your own hands, the video will demonstrate clearly. The video lists the necessary materials with dimensions, tools, and also shows the sequence of work with comments.

Toilet in the country photo

Here we have selected a few photos on the topic of our article "How to make a toilet in the country with your own hands."