You will need

• - pipe Ø100 mm;
• - corner 100x100 mm;
• - angle grinder ("Bulgarian");
• - welding machine;
• - cement;
• - sand;
• - edged board and timber for formwork;
• - carpentry tools;
• - shovel and bayonet shovels.

Instructions

Cut out the blanks for the gate. For racks, use a pipe Ø100 mm or a corner 100x100 mm. Their length is determined by the sum of the height of the gate and the length of the ends embedded in the ground (0.8-1 m). With a planned gate height of 2 m, the length of the blanks should be 2.8-3 m.
Make a jumper connecting the racks from a 100x100 mm corner. Its length should be equal to the width of the gate. For a standard gate, it is taken to be 3 m. If a pipe is used as posts, cut one flange of the corner on both sides at an angle of 30° and give its edge a concave shape. This is done so that the edges of the corner fit well to the posts when welding them.

Assemble the gate frame from the blanks on the ground, choosing a more level place for this. It should look like the letter “H” - two posts and a jumper placed between them at a distance of 2 m from their top (or 0.8-1 m from the bottom). In this case, two conditions must be ensured: parallelism of the racks with each other and perpendicularity of the jumper with respect to the racks.

Weld the jumper to the posts. Both corner flanges must be securely welded with a continuous seam. Weld any pieces of metal to the jumper in two or three places, pointing them down. They will act as reinforcement, firmly connecting the lintel to the foundation.

Dig a trench for pouring the foundation. Its width should be 350-400 mm, length - 3.5 meters (for a 3-meter gate). Required depth trenches are determined taking into account the depth of soil freezing, its type, level groundwater. For simplicity, you can take it equal to the depth of soil freezing in your area, which can be found on construction sites.

Make wooden boards from edged boards and assemble formwork from them. Its dimensions in plan should be 0.3x3.3 m. It is advisable to make the formwork walls slightly wider towards the bottom to avoid the buoyant effect of the soil on the foundation.

Install the gate into the formwork so that the lintel is flush with the ground and the posts are vertical. To do this, place supports made of stones or metal under the posts or lintel and secure the posts on both sides with stops. Place reinforcement in the formwork from any type of metal - wire, scraps metal profile and so on.

Prepare sand-cement mortar with a ratio of 1:4 (cement:sand) and pour it into the formwork. To use less mortar, fill the formwork with stones and broken brick. While pouring, tamp down the solution with a shovel. The surface of the poured foundation should be level with the ground and the lintel. Before hanging the gate itself, give the solution time to harden - at least a week.

A blind fence is needed to enclose and protect private territory land or summer cottage. Naturally, the fence must have an entrance. At first a gate was enough, then a gate was needed for the carriage, and then for the car.

Metal gates and a wicket will provide entry/entry into the yard and guarantee safety for the residents of the house. Earlier iron gate sheathed with sheet metal 3-5 mm, in modern conditions corrugated board is popular.

According to the method of opening, all types of metal/wood gates can be divided into two groups: swing and sliding.

By type of gate device: built-in (inside) and free-standing (nearby).

You can buy ready-made gates from corrugated sheets, order them made to size, or make them yourself. Let's take a closer look at the last option - homemade gates, as a cheap and affordable option.

Since swing doors are an easier design to manufacture, we will describe how to make swing gates from corrugated sheets on your own. The strength and aesthetic properties of the profiled sheet, as well as the price/quality ratio, allow us to talk about the feasibility of such a choice of cladding. As for the gate, we will describe two options for the device.

Do-it-yourself gates made of corrugated sheets -
step-by-step instruction

Step-by-step technology for manufacturing a structure with a separate gate.

Stage 1 – dimensions of gates made of corrugated sheets with and without a wicket

Please note that the installation of swing gates requires taking into account the layout of the site/yard.

Width of corrugated gates

The width of the gate opening is determined based on the width of the car (including mirrors) plus one additional meter for reserve.

Width is also taken into account support pillars(colon). When installing a gate with a free-standing gate, there will be three posts. In addition, you need to take into account the size of the gaps between the support pillars and the frame frame. As well as the size of the gap between the swing gate leaves, taking into account the parameters of the fittings.

• The optimal opening width for gates is 4500-5000 mm.

• The standard width of a gate made of corrugated sheets is 1200 mm.

Advice. Since you can’t get by with one sheet per sash, it is advisable to calculate the width of the sash based on the width of the corrugated sheet.

The table shows the dependence of the width of the gate leaf on the width of the profiled sheet.

Material prepared for the website www.site

Height of corrugated gates

The height of swing gates made of corrugated sheets is 2200-2500 mm. This is explained by the standard length of the corrugated sheet - 2,000 mm. Although the manufacturer can offer any length with a resolution of 50 mm.

In addition, the gap at the bottom (between the gate leaves and the ground) is taken into account, which is necessary to ensure the functioning of the gate during the formation of ice and high snow cover. The gap under the gate is 150-300 mm.

The height of the gate is influenced by the presence of decorative elements on top. For example, the use of forging allows you to increase the height of gates made of corrugated sheets and decoratively decorate the structure, as a result of which the entrance group looks more respectable.

Advice. If the gap from the ground seems too large, you can install a removable bar at the bottom of the gate, which must be removed at the beginning of winter.

Stage 2 – Drawing of a gate made of corrugated sheets

A diagram or drawing of swing gates is necessary to simplify the calculation of the amount of material and assess the rigidity of the structure.

Two ways to make swing gates:

• with one large leaf (single leaf). The disadvantage of this method is that it requires a lot of space to maneuver the gate, as well as its large windage. Reducing the windage due to additional frame parts leads to an increase in the load on the hinges, which in turn leads to misalignment of the sash. This method is only suitable for gates with a small opening width or for installing a wicket gate;

• with two doors (double doors). All the disadvantages described above are eliminated, but the manufacturing cost increases due to the addition of hinges and frame elements. It is possible to have a device with the same or different width sashes. Double-leaf swing gates have the advantage of being more resistant to wind loads.

The diagram of swing gates made of corrugated sheets should contain:

• the total width of the opening. It will be necessary to make a maneuver if necessary - when increasing gaps or changing the size of fittings;

• the width of each sash;

• number, width of racks and depth of digging of racks;

• frame configuration indicating the width of its constituent elements;

• location and width of the gate. This is an important aspect. Manufacturing a gate from corrugated sheets simultaneously with the frame for the gate will reduce the duration of the project. And if the gate is located inside the gate frame, the drawing will allow you to take into account its location when marking and cutting blanks;

• location for installing hinges;

• place and method of installing the lock;

• location of the internal door latch (vertical latch).

Frame reinforcement elements must be applied to the drawing of a gate made of corrugated sheets. It is the visualization of the future gate that allows you to understand which element to use and determine the location of its installation, taking into account the wind load.

Ways to strengthen gates made of corrugated sheets:

1. weld a corner for rigidity.

This method is suitable if the width of the sashes is small (up to 1,500 mm each). The corner can be solid (kerchief) or in the form of a corner jumper (spacer). The wider the corner or the closer to the center the jumper is installed, the stiffer the gate frame will be.

2. make a frame inside or above the frame.

In the first case, workpieces of a smaller cross-section are placed in the cells of the frame and are tacked by welding in increments of 200-300 mm.

A continuous seam is not allowed to prevent deformation of the metal due to heating (to prevent it from leading and twisting).

In the second, a pipe of smaller cross-section is welded over the main frame. The figure shows a top view of such a reinforcement.

3. install transverse or diagonal jumpers.

It is important to install the jumpers correctly here. If a gate made of corrugated sheets has a slight windage and it is enough to install one transverse jumper perpendicular to the long frame elements, then the situation with gates is more complicated. In this case, it makes more sense to use a diagonal jumper.

Methods for installing a lintel on a gate made of corrugated sheets are shown in the photo.

Gate stiffeners – location options:

A) Despite its apparent simplicity, this option is quite thoughtful, since it guarantees the integrity of the gate leaves. On the one hand, it will be held in place by hinges; the possibility of deformation is eliminated from above due to the reinforcement of the corners. It will be held at the bottom by horizontal clamps (latches);

b) This is the most economical of the options presented, but it creates reinforcement only in the middle of the frame. The only advantage is that it makes it possible to install a lock on a jumper.

V) The disadvantage of this option is the weak reinforcement of the upper internal corners. Strong winds can deform the sash;

G) in this case there is no strengthening of the left inner corner;

d) in this case there is no strengthening of both internal corners;

e) perfect option. Places of insertion of the lock, installation of hinges, lower clamps and upper corners are reinforced. This method eliminates frame torsion.

Advice. The wider the sash, the more the frame is reinforced.

Stage 3 – tools and material for gates made of corrugated sheets

The drawing of a gate made of corrugated sheets is visual aid to calculate the material. To make it you will need:

• corrugated sheeting - for cladding. It is preferable to take a wall, because. it has a large working width.

• self-tapping screws or rivets for fastening the profiled sheet;

• metal pipe with a cross section of 60x60 mm and above - for support pillars;

• pipe with a cross section of 40x40 or 60x20...60 mm. – for elements of the frame of the sashes (frame);

• pipe 20x20 to strengthen the frame (if necessary). 20x20 is suitable for a frame made of 60x20 pipe. 30x30 - if a 60x30 pipe was used.

Masters advise buying all pipes with a thickness of 3 mm, not 2. Their price is somewhat more expensive, but it will be much easier for beginners to weld them. The metal heats up more slowly and does not deform as quickly.

• metal sheet for forming scarves (if necessary);

• hinges, locks (latches, latches, plugs), lower clamps;

• metal primer and paint;

• decorative elements (forging).

Tools you will need: welding machine, grinder, screwdriver (drill and riveter), tape measure, level, plumb line, metal scissors, brushes and Consumables to the instrument.

Stage 4 - installation of support posts for gates from corrugated board

Installation of gates from corrugated board begins with the installation of support pillars. The most common way to install gate posts is to dig in followed by concreting.

How to properly install gate posts

• dig a hole with a garden drill. Using a shovel increases concrete consumption. How larger diameter support, the larger the diameter of the recess should be. For a pipe with a cross-section of 60x60, the diameter of the drill should be 120 mm.

How deep should gate posts be buried? Installation depth is 1/3 of the support length

• pour a mixture of crushed stone and sand into the recess. The thickness of the pillow is 150-300 mm. The cushion is designed to prevent the influence of frost heaving of the soil and ensure the outflow of water from the base of the support, thereby slowing down its destruction;

• prepare the support (coat it with anti-corrosion primer);

• install the support strictly vertically. The slightest deviation will lead to distortion of the entire structure. Correct installation is checked with a plumb line or level;

• concrete the support. While the concrete is setting, you can begin making the frame;

• cover the upper part of the support with a metal plate or special decorative element. As a last resort, pour concrete into the post (concrete from the inside) to prevent water from getting inside and thereby prevent the pillar from collapsing.

What kind of corrugated gate posts can be used?

In addition to metal pipe supports, you can install a concrete pillar or use piles. Supports decorated (lined) with brick or stone (brick pillars) look beautiful. When calculating the width of the gate opening, you should take into account the material of manufacture and the width of the support.

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Stage 5 – manufacturing gate frames from corrugated sheets

Before starting production, you need to measure the width of the opening of the gate and gate again in order to make timely changes to the size of the leaves.

Manufacturing technology:

• the metal is dissolved into blanks. It is advisable to make the cut at an angle of 45° for more reliable fastening. Although butt welding of parts is also found, it is easier to cut workpieces and weld them;

Advice. Masters advise welding the upper corners at an angle of 45 degrees, this will prevent water from flowing into them, and the lower ones can be butted.

• each workpiece is cleaned of dirt and rust;

• weld the frame elements together. And first, the workpieces are baited, and after checking the geometry, they are welded with a continuous seam;

• the frame is reinforced (if necessary);

• welded seams are carefully cleaned;

• degrease the frame, coat with a primer and paint the welding points. After the paint dries - paint the frame completely.

Advice. The manufacture of gates from corrugated board requires great accuracy in observing dimensions. When making a sash frame, it is better to make the frame a little smaller than larger. In the first case, to eliminate the gap between the wings of the swing gates, it will be enough to weld the flashing on one frame leaf, where it adjoins the second. In the second, you will need to cut the frame, and reduce its width.

Stage 6 - installation of hinges for swing gates from corrugated board

Garage hinges (canopies) are used to install gates.

How to properly weld hinges on gates made of corrugated sheets?

First, the hinge is welded onto the support post, then onto the gate frame at a distance of 200-300 mm from the edge of the door frame. Please note that the location of the hinge affects the position of the door when open. If it is necessary for the gate to open in both directions, the hinge is butt welded to the support. If there is only one, the loop is placed on the frame. To prevent the sash from reaching the fence, install a limiter.

How many hinges should be welded on the gate?

If the gate is reinforced, three hinges are required for each leaf. If you are light, two are enough.

Stage 7 – installation of corrugated sheeting on the gate

The corrugated sheet is mounted on one or both sides of the frame. The installation rules are not complicated, but knowing and following them will help you install the corrugated sheet on the gate correctly.

In general terms: you need to ensure reliable fastening of the sheet to the frame by fixing the corrugated sheet through one lower wave of the sheet. In this case, the profiled sheet is also screwed to the diagonal or perpendicular jumpers. And two sheets are connected to each other at the top of the wave (at the crest).

Rivets or self-tapping screws are used for fastening. Rivets look more elegant (especially those matched to the color of the corrugated sheet), self-tapping screws eliminate the possibility of water flowing into the installation site. Of course, this is not as critical as on the roof, but the appearance of rusty smudges over time cannot be avoided.

Stage 8 – installation of fittings (components for gates)

Additional elements:

• lock for swing gates made of corrugated board. It is installed after the sashes are hung.

Types of locks and how to install/install (installation rules):

• mounted It is necessary to provide loops for the lock when welding the frame and attaching corrugated sheets;

• overhead. It is installed on a crossbar, most often on an additionally welded flat sheet of metal. Or it is screwed directly to the frame with hardware. Craftsmen do not recommend using welding to install the locking mechanism structure, because the lock needs maintenance and replacement;

• mortise The lock cuts into the plane of the pipe; a metal pocket is used to hide/decorate the installation site.

• lower lock of the swing gate leaf - needed to redistribute the load from the lock and additionally secure the lower part of the open/closed gate leaf from the wind (wind load).

• gate latch (bolt), designed to close the gate from the inside (locking). The latch is more suitable for a gate, and for swing gates a lock (bolt) is used.

• automation for swing gates. Allows you to open the gate remotely, which is very convenient when it’s cold, raining or dark.

• security system: external surveillance camera, warning light, alarm.

Swing gates made of corrugated sheets with a built-in wicket

We’ll separately tell you how to make swing gates with a wicket made of corrugated sheets. This option is used when the opening is not wide enough to install gates and a separate wicket.

Options for the location of the wicket in the gate

Locations:

When making sash frames, they are made different sizes. Then the narrower sash serves as a gate.

This is the most budget option, since the load on only one gate post increases, which will require the installation of an additional hinge and reinforcement of the frame. Overall, costs will go down.

In the middle of the gate leaf. The option with a location in the middle is good because the frame of the gate serves as a reinforcement of the frame of the sash. And installing hinges not in the center, but closer to the top and bottom of the gate will further strengthen the structure. Closer to the support pillar. In this case, the main load falls on the support post, because both the gate frame and the gate frame rest on it. Closer to inner edge doors This design is the most “flimsy”, its weak link is the junction of the two doors and the gate. In the last three cases, during the manufacturing process of the frame, they provide additional frame for the gate. Moreover, it is made more reinforced than for a free-standing gate, since it accounts for wind load, which acts on gate leaves made of corrugated sheets. Please note that the gate will greatly overload the frame, which means that additional hinges and reinforcement of the sash frame will be needed.

In general, the technology of manufacturing gates from corrugated board with a wicket inside is carried out similarly to the manufacture of gates with a separate wicket. All the nuances are considered during the drawing process.

Advice. The lower clamp for such models of swing gates made of corrugated sheets is required.

Advantages and disadvantages of swing gates made of corrugated sheets

Advantages (pros):

• comparative simplicity of design and manufacture;
• low compared to sliding gates, price;
• ease of operation and maintenance;
• availability for installation of automation;

Disadvantages (cons):

• requirements for free space for maneuver (opening will require the release of an area equal to the width of the gate leaf);

• the need to take into account the wind load;

• the need to provide for fastening open gates in order to avoid their unauthorized closing (latch, stop, locking devices);

• setting the limiter open gate did not damage the fence canvas, and did not block access to the gate;

• difficulty in caring for winter time year, which consists in the need to remove snow over a large area.

Approximate prices for swing gates made of corrugated board

Conclusion

As you can see, with some effort you can make and install swing gates from corrugated sheets with your own hands in 1-2 weeks, which will decorate entrance group and will reliably serve as a beautiful business card of a private house.

When building a garage, many nuances are taken into account. One of them is the height of the gate, and we are talking not only about the height of the opening, but also about the height of the doors above the ground level. The article will discuss the reasons why it is important to correctly calculate this height. In some cases you have to raise Garage Doors higher due to certain circumstances. The article will also describe several ways in which this can be done.

Why raise the gate?

When it comes to the need to raise the gate, it concerns swing structures. There is no such problem for folding structures, since they are able to automatically change their level. There are several reasons why you have to resort to lifting the gate:

• hinge wear;
• frame deformation;
• incorrect design;
• violation of the integrity of the foundation;
• replacement vehicle.

Old gate designs are made of sheet metal, which has a thickness of 3 millimeters or more. This gate design itself is quite heavy, so it is normal that over time they begin to sag. The reason for this may be poor quality metal hinges. The rods lose their strength and the doors partially tilt forward. This complicates or makes the normal process of closing the gate difficult or impossible.

Another reason why the gate needs to be raised is wear of the metal angle. In most cases, beams with a width of 20 cm are used, but to save money, small corners are used, which begin to deform under constant loads. In this case, the geometry of the frame is disrupted, which leads to problems with the gate. When designed correctly, swing gates are never placed flush with the ground. Even with proper installation, this approach can become a problem in winter. The metal can be deformed under the influence of low temperatures and the doors will not open because they will cling to the asphalt.

Another problem that manifests itself when the gate level is low is precipitation. If there is a significant amount of snow in the winter, you have to work hard to clear the area near the gate before entering or leaving the garage. If there is heavy rain, water will simply seep into the garage, which can create serious problems, especially if the garage has an inspection hole or basement. In some cases, due to ground movements, a problem with deformation of the lower part of the frame may arise. This also results in the need to raise the gate. Walls can also become deformed, which leads to sagging of the gate and the impossibility of opening it.

Gate lifting methods

In most cases, it is better not to lift the gate alone. Due to the heavy weight, serious injuries to the hands and musculoskeletal system can occur. There are several ways to carry out the ascent, the following will be discussed below:

• repair washers;
• reducing the jumper;
• decreasing the threshold level;
• gate trimming.

Each of these methods requires its own arsenal of tools.

Repair washers

This option for increasing the height of the valves above ground level can be considered one of the simplest. Repair washers will help in cases where the doors do not open well due to wear on the hinges. With proper skill, you can do the work of installing washers yourself. In this way, you can usually raise the sashes by 1 cm. To implement the idea, washers of the required thickness are selected or a selection of several elements is made. The hole in the washer must be such that the hinge rod can fit freely into it. The washer must be lubricated on one side only. The second should be fixedly fixed on the loop.

To carry out the operation, it is necessary to lift the flaps, but not remove them completely. It is enough to create a gap into which the washer can fit. It is necessary to select a jack that can be easily rolled under the sash. If there is no such option, then you can build metal loop, part of which will be under the sash, and the second is clearly fixed on the jack. Another way is to install a rolling jack under the sash by lifting it. To do this, it opens perpendicular to the wall and several wooden wedges are driven under it. While performing these actions, it is necessary to hold the gate so that it does not skew to one side.

Using a jack, you can repair deformed parts of the gate, which is causing the sagging. In this case, the jack is installed as far as possible from the hinges, and the sash is raised. As you rise, it is necessary to perform blows with a sledgehammer, which will help level out the deformed area. It is better to perform leveling in several small passes, then the result will be most effective. It is worth understanding that with severe deformation, an ideal result may not be achieved. If the frame was aligned, then the bend must be additionally reinforced with a corner that is welded on top.

Note! If you are aligning a gate that has a wicket, you should not remove it. If this is done, then after the procedure it may not return to its place. Instead, it is necessary to firmly fix the door with ties or welding tacks.

Jumper reduction

This option for lifting the sashes can be called one of the most difficult and costly in terms of time and effort. But the result obtained can be considered the most effective. This option is also called raising the frame. To implement this, you will need to completely remove the garage door leaves. In some cases, the frame does not need to be dismantled, but it is necessary to free it from the clamps that hold it in the wall. These can be metal pieces of reinforcement that are driven into the holes. It will be easier to lift if brickwork is used as a lintel at the top of the frame. In this case, it will be enough to remove one or more rows. Everything will depend on the required lifting height of the garage door frame.

If there is a concrete lintel above the frame crossbar, then more effort will have to be applied. When using a standard element, it will be possible to raise the gate by about 10 cm. This is due to the fact that concrete is located at this level, and then reinforcement comes. You will need a hammer drill with a long drill bit. The diameter of the drill is selected to be 10 or 12 mm. The grinder marks the line along which the drilling will be carried out. It must be horizontal and located directly under the reinforcement. Holes are drilled in a row without a large gap. The next step is to install the chisel and begin beating the upper part of the jumper. Once the task is completed, it is necessary to remove the remaining concrete and level the surface of the lintel.

The next step is to raise the frame to the required height. If the metal fasteners have already been cut off, you need to use a hammer drill and a chisel in those places where the frame is concreted into the wall. It must be completely released and move freely. There are two ways to raise the frame:

• wedges from below;
• jack from above.

In the first case, you need to act starting from the middle. At this point, a strong crowbar is placed and a slow rise begins. You shouldn't start from the edges, because the gate frame will simply jam in the opening. After a slight lift, you need to place wooden spacers under the frame. Then you can move alternately to the left and right edges. As soon as one of them is raised, a wedge is also placed under it. It is worth understanding that the extreme points may be more difficult to give in than the central one. When it is possible to achieve a large gap, one or more rolling jacks are installed in it.

Further lifting is carried out using jacks. In this case, it is important to act synchronously with an assistant or lift to a small level on each jack in turn. You should not try to do everything quickly, because the frame may become warped. If this happens, then you need to lower one of the jacks and tap the garage door frame with a sledgehammer. The operation can be performed in another way. If it is impossible to place spacers and a jack under the frame threshold, you must do this under it. top bar. Jacks in this version are mounted as shown in the diagram above. High stands made of beams are made under them. A board gasket is placed on top of the head to prevent slippage. The garage door frame must also be raised evenly.

Note! In some cases, the threshold may be connected to the foundation, so it cannot be raised. Then the frame posts are cut off and the upper part is lifted separately. After this, small sections of the gate frame will need to be welded from the corner.

After such an operation, in most cases there is no need to digest the gate hinges, since they are mounted in their usual place. The question arises in relation to the lower part of the gate, because a gap is formed there equal to the height of the frame. It can be closed by welding onto the gate sheet metal A. It is also suitable for forming a threshold that will prevent rainwater from entering the room. The last option is necessary if the gate was initially too low.

Threshold level

This option for increasing the height of the gate with your own hands does not involve dismantling the gate and is one of simple options. It is worth noting that it can only be implemented if the height of the threshold is sufficient and there is a small margin. You should not resort to this method in the case when the lower part of the frame is almost at road level. To implement this plan, you will need to install horizontal struts that will temporarily fix the frame. The gate leaves are opened and the lower part of the frame is dismantled.

You should not throw it away, because this element will be used in its place. For the next step, you need a jackhammer or a powerful hammer drill. It will be necessary to knock down part of the concrete threshold. After reaching the required level, the lower part of the gate frame is welded into place and the horizontal struts are removed. You can start pouring the threshold cement mortar.

Gate trimming

This method is the simplest and most undesirable. It can be implemented only if the total height of the gate is quite large and you do not plan to buy a large car. The method of cutting the gate is used only when it is necessary to understand the level of the threshold so that water does not get inside. For work you will need a grinder. The first step is to separate the sheet metal from the sash frame at the bottom. The bottom crossbar is completely cut out, but will be needed later. After this, it is necessary to determine at what height the gate will be trimmed.

Using a chockline or a thread with paint, the line along which you want to make the cut is marked. The lower part is cut off with a grinder sheet material goal along the marked line. In principle, this can be done by weight, but the best option will complete dismantling sashes and making the cut in a horizontal position. In this case, there is less chance of biting the canvas and causing injury. After trimming each sash, it is necessary to weld the lower spacer into place. Next, the gate is mounted in its place and the threshold is filled. A video about three options for lifting the gate is below.

Summary

As you can see, in some cases, lifting the gate is necessary due to certain circumstances. It can be done in several ways. Some of them can be combined to achieve optimal results. Another way to raise the gate is to replace the sash version with a roller version. In this case, the gate will rise rather than slide apart. In this case, before installing the gate, you can expand the opening to the required dimensions.

anti-burglary garages (burglar protection)

We offer several types of protection against burglary (opening) of garages:

1. Installation of protective rings from the Ø219mm pipe on external locks - with such protection it becomes impossible to cut off the padlock and it is very difficult or impossible (also depends on the lock) to slip a crowbar or pry bar under the lock pad and break it.

2. Installation of “Crabs” - corners or pins are welded onto the gate from the inside, which extend beyond the gate frame when closed. Thus, when cutting the hinges from the outside, the gate will not open, because "Crabs" won't give it.

3. Installation of a good garage internal lock, with a large cross-section and bolt stroke, having a simple and reliable design.

4. Additional welding of loops through a corner or fittings.

5. Reinforcement, if necessary, of the gate with thicker-walled metal.

6. Strengthening the walls and ceiling with a grid of reinforcement.

7. Welding additional ears for external padlocks.

8. Installation or replacement with a rod large diameter internal bolts up, down or between each other.

9. Concreting the floor with reinforcement.

10. Welding to neighboring garages (if the owners don’t mind)

other methods of anti-burglary of garages and metal doors, after individual measurement.

Departure for measurement (inspection) in Samara is free of charge.

If you don't have electricity, this is not a problem, we have a generator-electric power station.

For those interested in garage safety, we recommend reading:

Some car owners consider the garage to be a safe haven for storing their vehicle. But statistics show that this is where many cars were looted. Criminals quite professionally rob and steal cars from garages that are well closed. How to prevent such troubles?

Let's take into account that there are different types garages. A reinforced concrete garage is the most reliable. Of course, they can break it, but only with the help of a bulldozer or jackhammers. The second safest would be a brick garage. Much depends on the material from which it is made. Silicate blocks can be made with a simple crowbar; robbers do this quickly and quietly. And the most vulnerable are metal garages. Experienced thieves can hack them in 5 minutes. Especially accessible are those metal structures that are not attached to the floor; even a group of novice teenage burglars can open them.

Let's consider a number of recommendations regarding garage locks:
- It is necessary to install metal casings (pipe rings) so that the padlock becomes inaccessible to raiders. Of course, if they have a crowbar, this most likely will not help. But then you can use locks with hidden rods. They have quite streamlined shapes. Also use internal locks in your garage. It is important that they cannot be opened from the inside.
- If there is no gate, install several locks on the garage door. Make the distance between them 40 cm. This is important to distribute the load when trying to break in with chains or a crowbar.
- Follow this rule when installing locks: there must be elements of its mechanism hidden inside the lock. Then the thief will not be able to unscrew them.

The design of the gate itself is of great importance. It happens that they are hacked using force. They pull it right out by the roots. Of course, this is done in deserted places. Make the gate monolithic, without external handles. Do not forget that the inside of the gate must have strong corners or a profile along the entire perimeter. The hinges must be well welded to the frame of the garage itself, or better yet, reinforced. Do not screw them in, as this will make the job easier for burglars. It is better to screw, weld, nail in a timely manner, in other words, firmly connect the canopy and frame at the garage. You will have to spend a lot of time on this, but your car will not be stolen. The most unprotected boxes are those with a tin or slate roof, especially if it is nailed down. It’s also good to weld the garage to neighboring garages, if the owners don’t mind.

Some more recommendations:
- Choose a garage in busy areas.
- The area should be well lit.
- The most reliable method of protection in this case is an alarm system. It is triggered when garages are broken into and sends special signals to security services. While the robber is busy in the garage, a patrol arrives and detains him. The owner is informed via SMS that the thief has been detained.
If you need advice from professionals in Samara, call and we will come to take measurements and help you choose the optimal list of burglary protection.

The first and most important thing for the safety of your garage is the awareness that you are at risk. Excessive self-confidence in such matters is the first assistant of a criminal. A few more tips on how to protect your garage.

Often, criminals entering the garage are not even interested in your car. The garage can even be opened because of food supplies for the winter in the cellar or an expensive radio. Once the garage of your humble servant (before work to strengthen it) was opened only in order to break through the “entrance” in the wall to the neighboring, more secure garage and take a foreign car out of it. Here you go..

Rule #1:

When choosing a garage, you need to look not only at the strength of your future doors and walls, but also the neighboring ones.

Rule #2:

The concept of “safety” refers not only to the garage itself, but also to the surrounding area. If your garage is located in a not-so-prosperous area of ​​the city, is poorly lit, and is also poorly visible from the outside, you can be sure that sooner or later uninvited guests will visit it if it is not properly fortified.

Rule #3:

What if you already have a garage? Then take a look around. If there are bushes growing nearby or standing old fence blocking the visibility of your garage, it is advisable to remove these obstacles. It is worth thinking about garage lighting. It is especially easy to solve this issue by installing powerful lights on the roofs of the outer garages in garage cooperatives. In this case, energy costs can be divided among all garage owners.

WITH external protection Looks like we've sorted it out. Now let's move on to the garage itself. What can you do to strengthen your garage?

Gates:

Gates, due to their specificity, are the most weak link in the outer wall complex. In order to make the gate impregnable, its doors must be made of metal with a thickness of at least 2-3 mm and welded onto a frame made of a profile of at least 50 mm. It is advisable to make the gate frame from any profile of at least 60mm (preferably larger). The box itself must be securely connected to the walls or beams, because very often seemingly impenetrable gates fly out as soon as you pull them with a cable tied to the car.

You can also weld rods onto the hinges - this will significantly increase their resistance to sawing. The same applies to eyelets for locks.

I don’t think it’s worth mentioning about the strip of metal that prevents you from pushing crowbars between the gate leaves - everyone should have it.

Now let's remember about sliding locks of the "latch" type that fix the gate leaves. Usually you close simple metal bars, and the door still dangles, but it is worth welding metal on them so that the fit is tight.

Locks:

I won't talk about castles. Better yet, I’ll give you a quote from the 8th issue of the Autoreview magazine for 2002:

“...There are many relatively inexpensive and at the same time very worthy domestic products. Pay attention to the products under trademarks ZGC, Class, METTEM, Geryon, Kerberos. When starting a conversation with the seller, ask to see locks specifically designed for installation in a garage (the marking of such a product should include the letter “G”). Immediately return those that can be opened from the inside without a key (having climbed into the garage through a tunnel or a hole in the wall, a thief should not be able to open the gate). After this, select products certified for at least the third class of burglary resistance (this parameter must be indicated in the passport). If the lock is marked with the letter “L”, this means that it is intended for installation on the left (as viewed from the hinge side) gate leaf. And vice versa.

What type of privacy mechanism is optimal for garage lock? Level key, the key of which is made in the form of a double-sided “butterfly”. Disc locks also work well.

If your garage door does not have a gate, then it is better to buy two or three mortise or rim locks. They must be installed so that the vertical distance between the key holes is 300-350 mm - this will ensure a more even distribution of loads during rough break-in attempts. Regardless of the type of locking device you choose, it design features and models, three basic rules should be strictly observed. Firstly, the security mechanism of a lock installed on a garage should under no circumstances protrude beyond the leaf of the gate or gate. Secondly, fastening must be done with bolts with a diameter of at least 8 mm, or it is better to weld the lock. And thirdly, you need to make sure that the fastening elements of the locking device cannot be unscrewed from the outside.

Walls:

For walls, we can recommend creating a powerful frame from corners and welding this frame with a metal mesh; we can also recommend it for the ceiling. Note! Often concrete floors They just lie on the walls. They are very easy to lift with a hydraulic jack and get inside. Ceiling tiles must be connected to the walls with strong metal pins.

Finally:

1) Installing a howler (must be placed in a hard-to-reach place) that is triggered when the gate is opened can scare away any uninvited guest. The howler can be switched off both from the outside and from the inside.

2) It is advisable to make a secret button for lighting or unscrew the plug from the shield when leaving. The absence of light will make life difficult for any burglar.

3) A small bolt, inconspicuous among the others, firmly pressing the doors to the frame (in this case you will have to carry it with you and wrench) is another obstacle for a burglar.

We can also make a metal safe from 3-4mm steel with internal locks for storing valuables, weapons, etc. and weld it to the garage wall.

Call us and we will help you reliably protect your garage and car in Samara! We also carry out any garage repairs in Samara.

Before we talk about how to install posts for swing gates, let’s highlight the product – gate posts. There is always misunderstanding with gate posts. There is mainly disagreement over whether gate posts are considered part of the gate itself or not. For some reason, many Customers are 100% sure of this and are perplexed when it is explained to them that this is not so. The client believes that gates, in principle, cannot exist only in the form of two separate leaves, and especially without welded gate hinges. Or another extreme, when the Customer still allows the existence of a similar set of gates without pillars, but it should be quite cheap. Of course, the easiest way is to direct such a Customer in a further search for the gate he needs and not save his nerves on explaining elementary things that are axioms for the gate manufacturer. But the fact that there are no extra Customers is a fact. The opinion that swing gates must be equipped with gate posts is completely groundless. Like, if there are gate leaves, and they cannot hang in the air, the gate hinges must be attached to something, and if so, then the gate kit must also include gate posts. Such logic about gates can only be made by a person who is very far from construction work and does not understand the technology of installing gates and the order of installation of products when erecting a fence. In reality, the gate posts are installed much earlier than the gate itself, and it is from these posts that the gate dimensions will be taken. That is, the gate posts are already ready and look good, but the gate itself is not yet in the sketches. Posts for the gate, it is more correct to say, part of the fence configuration. A smart builder who erects a fence is always interested in where the gates and gates will be located. And he always begins work with the installation of pillars for gates and gates. And then he lays brick or other material.

Options for installing posts for metal gates

Installing gate posts is not an easy job. If you do not have experience in correctly installing gate posts, the result will be disastrous. Over time, gate posts will tilt, the gate will jam, or stop working properly altogether. All this can be avoided. What you need to know before you start installing gate posts.

The first thing is to pay attention to the material of the gate posts. Suitable material will be thick-walled rolled metal. For example, hot-rolled channel 14, 16 or a channel of smaller cross-section, pre-welded into a box. Metal gate posts can also serve profile pipes with a cross section of 100 x 100 mm and a wall of at least 5 mm. The thicker the pipe wall, the stronger the gate post.

Secondly, the design of metal gate posts must have lower crossbars at the base. IN ideal, the post before concreting should rest on the crosspiece of the corner 50, 63. And the other crosspiece should be recessed 100 - 200 mm from the surface of the ground. The length of the crossbars of the cross varies from 500 mm to 1 meter.

Third, it is mandatory to fill the base of metal gate posts with concrete. In this case, the gate post must be installed at a depth of at least one and a half meters, and somewhere more. It all depends on the composition and properties of the soil where the gate posts will be installed.

Fourth, do not neglect pouring into the gate post, liquid concrete mortar. This will make it possible to make a strong reinforced concrete pillar from a hollow pipe with external reinforcement, thereby achieving the most rigid pillar structure possible.

Fifth, it is more reliable if the foundation of the gate posts is part of the general foundation of the fence. And concreting when installing gate posts will be carried out simultaneously with the general pouring of the foundation.

Sixth, it is more expedient to provide additional fastening between the gate post and the fence in its upper part. If you are laying a fence made of brick, then the brick post inside which the gate post is hidden must be additionally tied with a thick metal strip to the fence itself. It often happens that a brick pillar tilts due to the load of the gate and breaks away from the fence masonry, forming a crack between them.>

Seventh, sometimes, in difficult clay soils, it is impossible to install gate posts in a strictly vertical position and securely fix them. In this case, you need to use additional upper and lower crossbars (lintels) between the gate posts. The lower lintel is made of metal similar to that used for gate posts, and is buried in the ground to a depth of 300 - 400 mm. In the future, a normal passage is arranged on top of the lower jumper. The upper crossbar is installed along the upper ends of the gate posts. Of course, the top lintel will not add beauty and neatness to the gate, but it is a necessary measure and a very effective one. The upper cross member must be made removable to ensure passage in case of a tall car or transportation large cargo through the gate.

How to install gate posts is a much more difficult task than it might seem at first glance.

If for a fence it is enough for the posts to simply stand and not fall, then the gate is a mechanism, for the coordinated operation of which it will be necessary to maintain a certain position of both of its leaves.

Therefore, installing poles is the most difficult and important task in their construction.

According to the rigidity to the pillars, all the gates can be divided into groups:

• Gates that are bolted electronic lock; gates with heavy doors; gates that can be damaged by passing trucks.
• Gates that are locked with a chain or barrier.

Products of the first type are usually placed where they need to be opened and closed frequently - for example, at the entrance to a large shopping center. Usually such a passage has a significant width - about five.

And in some cases - even more, so that two cars up to eight meters wide can easily pass each other. The sashes in this case can weigh from 500 kg to four tons.

Yes, and in a private house, many will want to have a gate that closes with an electronic lock - they can be opened and closed without leaving the car or just look from the window who has arrived and open the gate for him without leaving.

Before you install gate posts, you need to know that the most stringent requirements are imposed on them here. They must ensure reliable operation of the bolt mechanism and a stable position of both doors relative to each other.

Gates that are locked with a chain do not impose any special requirements on the rigidity of the posts.

The chain, although it does not provide sufficiently reliable protection against penetration, will still be an obstacle to the penetration of thieves.

Here it will be enough to ensure sufficient strength of the pillars themselves - after all, when using gates, it is still possible that they will be hit by a trailer.

It would also be a good idea to ensure that the pillars are maintainable. Barriers also do not impose any special requirements on the posts. An exception is electronic barriers with the beam being locked when lowered by a stop.

In this case, the same requirements are imposed on the pillars as for gates of the first type. In addition, they should be stronger - a barrier at the entrance is easier to miss in the dark than a closed gate. The disadvantage of chain-locked gates is that you have to open and close them manually.

Gate material

• Definitely the most the best material for poles today is a metal pipe - round or square. It does not have too much mass so that the pole can be erected by one or two people without the use of equipment. Pouring concrete inside the pipe or adding lime will create an electrochemical positive potential on the surface of the pipe and increase rust resistance several times; in addition, you can order products from galvanized pipes.
• The second option is reinforced concrete. This is not very good for heavy gates - constant bending, cyclic loads, the likelihood of an accidental dynamic impact from the side of a trailer or wheel will quickly render them unusable. Reinforced concrete posts are much more suitable for a fence. Brick pillars have the same drawback - except when there is metal pole, and the hinges are attached directly to it using remote anchors, through the thickness.
• Finally, the third option is wooden pillars. Wooden giants will be more exotic and are used quite rarely - due to their low resistance to rotting and low load-bearing capacity.

Installation of posts for gates that are locked with a bolt or a heavy gate

Installing gate posts to prevent them from moving can only be done by making a reliable foundation and ensuring their rigid connection with each other. Communication can be made at two points - at the bottom of the entrance, at the crossing through the gate and at the top of the pillars. Usually they are welded together at these two points, placing two I-beams between them.

But for the top fasteners there is a rather serious limitation - sometimes it may be necessary to pass vehicles that exceed the height of the dimensions of the pillars and the top beam. Therefore, the latter is made removable.

When installing an entrance to your own site, when you plan to drive only your own car, it is quite possible not to make a solid foundation for the gate, but to make separate ones for each post. In this case, they simply weld the pillars at the bottom with a thick I-beam, and on top they make the same beam, but removable, inserted into welded sockets and having welded pins for insertion.

This way, you can safely drive in and out of your car, and good stable operation will be ensured. electronic lock both the opening mechanism and the skewing of the pillars can be avoided.

However, this does not negate the laying of the foundation for each pillar separately, which should go below the freezing depth for such gates. A concrete pad is usually made at the entrance area. It will be very good if the I-beam, which is welded between the pillars below, is thicker than it. In a layer of concrete it will be reliably protected from rust, since concrete produces a slightly alkaline reaction and prevents metal oxidation.

For heavier gates it is necessary to make a solid foundation. Usually it is made in the form of the letter “H” with a transverse bar that is strongly elongated horizontally.

The foundation is usually poured solid. Its depth should be below the freezing depth. Everything is done according to the same rules as the construction strip foundation for home. The thickness of the foundation grillage is about 50 cm. Theoretically, 30 will be enough, but a width of 50 allows you to save on formwork and pour the foundation into a spacer with the walls of the trench.

Near the pillars, extensions-buttresses are made in both directions, perpendicular to the entrance. Usually, even for heavy gates, a buttress in the area of ​​a post with a total length of one meter is sufficient. The foundation is reinforced before pouring.

An I-beam is welded between the pillars at the bottom of the entrance, near the surface. Then it is poured into concrete, along with reinforcement - the concrete will be for it reliable protection from.

It is advisable to install an I-beam at the top of the pillars. Considering that, usually, heavy gates require large and heavy posts, the beam must match.

It will be difficult to remove and put it back in place - you will have to adjust it every time crane. Therefore, it is better to immediately put a significant height reserve in the pillars and simply tightly weld the beam to them, once and for all.

Posts for gates

Using the same technology, you can install posts for gates and gates - with the difference that here you can take thinner posts; it is enough to install round ones with a diameter of 50 mm or square ones with a width of 50 mm, the wall thickness is 3 mm.

It is undesirable to take a smaller wall thickness - to thin metal it will be difficult to weld the hinges, and this will affect the durability of the gate.

Considering that 2.5 meters is enough for a person to pass, the pillars can be connected without any danger to each other at a height of 2.5 meters by welding a crossbar.

The second bundle is at the bottom, where the entrance is. It is desirable to concrete it so that it does not rust. The standard width of the gate is 90-120 cm. You can freely enter such a passage in winter clothes, with a stroller, and even bring a wheelbarrow with earth.

How to concrete gate posts - on the video:

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You will need

• - pipe Ø100 mm;
• - corner 100x100 mm;
• - angle grinder ("Bulgarian");
• - welding machine;
• - cement;
• - sand;
• - edged board and timber for formwork;
• - carpentry tools;
• - shovel and bayonet shovels.

Instructions

Cut out the blanks for the gate. For racks, use a pipe Ø100 mm or a corner 100x100 mm. Their length is determined by the sum of the height of the gate and the length of the ends embedded in the ground (0.8-1 m). With a planned gate height of 2 m, the length of the blanks should be 2.8-3 m.
Make a jumper connecting the racks from a 100x100 mm corner. Its length should be equal to the width of the gate. For a standard gate, it is taken to be 3 m. If a pipe is used as posts, cut one flange of the corner on both sides at an angle of 30° and give its edge a concave shape. This is done so that the edges of the corner fit well to the posts when welding them.

Assemble the gate frame from the blanks on the ground, choosing a more level place for this. It should look like the letter “H” - two posts and a jumper placed between them at a distance of 2 m from their top (or 0.8-1 m from the bottom). In this case, two conditions must be ensured: parallelism of the racks with each other and perpendicularity of the jumper with respect to the racks.

Weld the jumper to the posts. Both corner flanges must be securely welded with a continuous seam. Weld any pieces of metal to the jumper in two or three places, pointing them down. They will act as reinforcement, firmly connecting the lintel to the foundation.

Dig a trench for pouring the foundation. Its width should be 350-400 mm, length - 3.5 meters (for a 3-meter gate). The required trench depth is determined taking into account the depth of soil freezing, its type, and groundwater level. For simplicity, you can take it equal to the depth of soil freezing in your area, which can be found on construction sites.

Make wooden panels from edged boards and assemble formwork from them. Its dimensions in plan should be 0.3x3.3 m. It is advisable to make the formwork walls slightly wider towards the bottom to avoid the buoyant effect of the soil on the foundation.

Install the gate into the formwork so that the lintel is flush with the ground and the posts are vertical. To do this, place supports made of stones or metal under the posts or lintel and secure the posts on both sides with stops. Place reinforcement made of any type of metal into the formwork - wire, scraps of metal profile, etc.

Prepare a sand-cement mortar with a ratio of 1:4 (cement:sand) and pour it into the formwork. To use less mortar, fill the formwork with stones and broken bricks. While pouring, tamp down the solution with a shovel. The surface of the poured foundation should be level with the ground and the lintel. Before hanging the gate itself, give the solution time to harden - at least a week.

When the territory of a site is enclosed with a fence, the question always arises about the need to install a gate. They come in several types: swing, retractable, opening in one direction or lifting. You can install on your own only hinged or opening in one direction gates. The rest are installed on special structures with the participation of specialists in this field.

You will need

• -hinges
• -bolts or welding machine
• -pillars
• -smooth block

Instructions

In summer cottages and in private houses, swing doors are usually installed. gates. This design is the presence of two wings, welded from iron or made from tesa. In some cases, carved or forged gates.

To install the gate, dig in the posts, measuring the manufactured gates. Poles can be installed iron or wooden. Fill both with cement mortar for strength and reliability.

The hinges can be welded to the posts and gates m or fasten using bolts. Store-bought hinges are not suitable for installing gates. They are unreliable. Order powerful homemade hinges from any turning organization or purchase them at the market where they sell homemade parts. They should be on a ball mechanism, which will allow easy opening gates without making any effort.

The most difficult process is the installation and fixing of the gate. It is impossible to carry out this procedure alone, because the doors made from any material are quite heavy. They need to be hung at a distance from the ground that does not prevent them from opening.

Place a block of the desired size down the gate along the length of both wings. Install one sash on it and weld or screw the hinges. First it is done from above, then from below.

The second gate leaf must be installed in accordance with the first and welded or screwed on the hinges. And do the same. First, the hinge is screwed or welded at the top, then at the bottom.

If you installed a bar, then both wings should be at the same distance from the ground so that distortions do not occur when they are closed.

Video on the topic

The owners of their own plots try to install such gates so that they are both beautiful and comfortable, and would fit well into general design. Wooden structures are considered the most affordable and easiest to implement.

For those who want to make their own wooden gates First you need to draw up a design drawing. This helps to more accurately imagine the scope of work and purchase the necessary materials in advance. When drawing up a drawing, you must try to ensure that all the details and structural elements are in full accordance with each other.

How to install gate supports

From wooden beams you need to make vertical supports. Their size should be calculated as follows: add another meter to the height of the gate for deepening. The greater the depth to which the supports are installed, the more stable and durable the structure is. So during the operation of the gate, the likelihood of warping is reduced.

Remove debris from the place intended for the installation of support poles. Dig holes - their diameter should be 20 cm larger than that of the supports. Tamp the bottom of the hole and make a cushion of rubble. That part of the pillar that will be filled with concrete must be pre-treated with a composition that will protect the wood from rotting - for example, bitumen mastic. Use a plumb line to check the verticality of the post. The pit with the installed post must be filled with concrete and wait until it dries.

Gate manufacturing

To make one of the gate posts, you will need one block each for the top and bottom, two bars for the side posts, and two for the middle lintel. Dimensions for gates are calculated depending on the size of the machine. All parts must be treated with antiseptic impregnation.

The frame parts are laid out on flat surface, holes must be drilled at the joints. Dowels are inserted into them - they add rigidity to the places where the parts are connected. Jumpers made of timber are installed in the middle of the frame. At the corners, jibs are attached, which are bars with cuts at the ends at an angle of 45 degrees.

When calculating the height of the frame, it is necessary to take into account that the sheathing boards should protrude beyond it from below and above by 20 cm. The boards must be prepared before sheathing - cut to the dimensions specified by calculation and worked with a plane. They can be attached to the frame and tightly to each other, and with a certain step. After all the sheathing boards are in place, the top must be trimmed and cleaned sandpaper. Now the hinges are attached to the sashes - for this, self-tapping screws with screw threads are used. Self-tapping screws can also be used to secure fasteners to racks.

The distance from the bottom of the gate to the ground must be at least 5 cm. Closed gates are secured with bolts, latches or locks - the owner chooses the method. It is better to paint the gate when assembled.

Video on the topic

A fence is an important element of fencing. When constructing it, it is necessary to determine what supports it will have. Its reliability and longevity depend on this. Pillars can be wooden, metal or concrete. Once you have made your choice, get to work.

You will need

• - pillars;
• - cord;
• - pegs;
• - saw;
• - drill;
• - gravel;
• - bitumen;
• - wedges.

Instructions

Installation of poles for fence start by marking the fenced area. Do this with a cord. Correctly calculate the number of columns, crossbars and canvases.

Hammer the pegs where the posts will be installed. Check again that the intended line is correct. The pegs must be exactly at the marking step. A crooked fence will not be strong.

Mark the height of the post. She must be taller than herself fence by a few centimeters. Considering the underground part, saw off the excess.