Tomatoes are one of the most beloved vegetables and are in great demand among our compatriots. Those that are grown with their own hands bring special pleasure. Therefore, every self-respecting gardener is simply obliged to provide himself with a crop of tomatoes. After all, if a lot of them grow, it will be possible to prepare blanks for the winter.
In this article we will talk about what needs to be done so that as many fruits as possible are born.
Predecessors and neighbors of tomatoes
The first step is to choose a bright corner for planting tomatoes. Any land is not suitable for them, so you need to decide where you can plant tomatoes. It is important to know the predecessors and identify the neighbors of the tomatoes.
Why do you need to know about predecessors? First of all, this is necessary in order for future plants to be comfortable in such soil. Predecessors are plants that grew here last season. Some cultures are incompatible, which can adversely affect the yield. Therefore, we will analyze the good and bad predecessors for tomatoes. Good forerunners include: beets, carrots, cucumbers, onions, beans, peas, greens, zucchini, corn, green manure. Harmful precursors are: potatoes, cabbage, eggplant, pepper.
The right neighborhood can also affect the yield. good neighbors tomatoes will be: asparagus, celery, garlic, parsley, peas, radish, radish, currants and gooseberries. For example, it will be useful to alternate tomato beds with garlic beds.
| Good Predecessors | Unwanted predecessors | good neighbors | Unwanted neighbors |
| beet, carrot, cucumber, onion, beans, peas, greenery, zucchini, corn, green manure | potato, cabbage, eggplant, pepper | carrot, asparagus, salads, celery, garlic, onion, parsley, peas, radish, radish, currant, gooseberry | potato, cucumbers, cabbage, dill, fennel, broccoli, cauliflower, eggplant, pepper |
Site selection, soil preparation and beds for planting tomatoes
So, based on the above, you were able to choose a suitable site. Next comes the preparation of the soil for future beds. It is best to prepare the ground in the fall, namely to dig up the soil, adding wood ash and humus to it. To improve the nutritional value of the soil, you can sow the plot for the winter with oats. In the spring it will be much easier to dig it a second time, remove weeds and add fertilizer.
When the soil is ready, you need to form beds. There are the following types of tomato beds:
1. Warm beds in the open field. Tomatoes are very heat-loving plants, so many gardeners choose this type of garden. They work on the principle of a compost heap: organic matter rots and gives off its heat.
Such a bed is made as follows: a trench is dug a meter wide and half a meter deep, chips, sawdust, dry grass, and shrubs are laid on its bottom. A layer of organic matter is placed on a layer of wood, on top of which manure is poured. Next, they begin to complete the top layer, consisting of last year's compost and earth. Planting tomatoes in such beds is carried out a little earlier, as well as harvesting.
2. high bed . This type of arrangement is very similar to a warm garden bed. A high bed is a soil raised above the main level of the garden and framed with special sides. It is easy to care for tomatoes in such soil, since the appearance of weeds is hampered by the sides. Such beds do not collapse during the winter and during adverse weather conditions.
3. Regular garden. Many gardeners treat the preparation of the beds negligently and make the usual dug beds. Unfortunately, they have many disadvantages: a large number of weeds, it is impossible to cover from frost, wide beds complicate the care of plants. Therefore, such beds are more suitable for greenhouses.
Variety selection
This milestone preparation of tomatoes, which should not be forgotten. For the most part, it all depends on your taste preferences. But pay attention to varieties that are particularly resistant and fruitful. There are the following varieties:
- Determinant. Such varieties of tomatoes stop growing when they reach a certain height. More often these are undersized varieties suitable for greenhouses: "Alsu", "Balcony Miracle", "Blagovest F1" or for open ground: "Buyan Yellow", "Summer Resident", "Oakwood" and others.
- Indeterminate grow until a severe frost sets in. They are the most resistant to different temperatures. Among them, the most popular varieties are "Budenovka", "Wonder of the Earth", "Christina Plum", "Bull Heart", "Chernomor" and others .
- High yielding. Any summer resident wants to collect as much as possible more harvest from your garden. However, not all varieties are suitable for all weather conditions. It is worth paying attention to the Siberian collection of high-yielding tomatoes. They are suitable for planting in any region of Russia. The best of them are: "Seeds of Altai", Siberian Garden, Siberiada.
- early varieties. I want to try natural products from the garden early, so many prefer to use early varieties tomatoes. The most popular of them: "Ultra-early", "Demidov", "Abakan pink". They differ not only in the early harvest, but also in the impressive size of the fruit.
- Greenhouse. Suitable for greenhouse conditions: "Wonder of the Earth", "Scarlet Candles", "Pink Honey".
- Undersized without pinching. big problem in the care of tomatoes is that they require pinching - cleaning the leaves. This is reflected in fertility. But there are seeds that don't need it: "Knight", "Lord", "Crimson Viscount".
- Low-growing varieties for open ground. The best include: "Sanka", "Tolstoy F1", "Bobkat F1".
On a note! F1 in the name of the variety means that the variety is hybrid. The disadvantage of the hybrid is that seeds cannot be collected from such fruits. BUT! the main advantage of this variety is that hybrids inherit the best qualities from their parents, so even in an unfavorable year they actively bear fruit.
Growing strong seedlings for open beds
We have chosen high-quality seeds, now it is worth doing the right soil. It is better to prepare the ground for seedlings a week before planting. Before that, it must be disinfected with a weak solution of potassium permanganate or warmed up in the oven. You can use purchased soil or cook it yourself. In the second case, you will need to mix several ingredients. The best options are:
Option 1- 4 parts of peat, 1 part of sod land and ¼ of mullein. For every 10 liters, add 3 liters of river sand, 10 g of ammonia, 2-3 g of superphosphate and 1-1.5 g of potassium chloride.
Option 2- 3 parts peat, 1 part steamed sawdust, ½ part mullein. For every 10 liters of soil obtained, 3 liters of river sand, 10 g of ammonium nitrate, 2-3 g of superphosphate and 1-1.5 g of potassium chloride are added.
Purchased soil is best mixed with garden soil, which was previously disinfected, in equal proportions. The fact is that such soil contains a large amount of peat and has a high acidity.
The next step is to prepare the seeds for sowing. You can stand them for some time in a growth stimulator or in aloe juice, honey water. The next step is to germinate the seeds. You will need a wet cloth or napkin. Lay the seeds on one side and cover the other, place them in a plastic bag and send them to a warm place. Make sure the fabric does not dry out. After some time, they hatched and are ready for sowing.
Take a container for sowing, pour about a centimeter layer of drainage on the bottom, and on top of the soil, 5 centimeters thick. It is best to sow the seeds in grooves one and a half centimeters deep, 3 centimeters apart. Then cover them with soil and take them to a warm place. And don't forget to cover the ground with glass or cellophane. The best place for seedlings will be a well-lit place, such as a heated balcony or windowsill.
Support the first time comfortable temperature in room. As soon as the sprouts appear, transfer them to a cool place with a temperature of no more than 16 degrees Celsius. This is necessary so that they do not stretch too much. After a week, they can be returned to a warm place.
Proper watering is also important condition when growing seedlings.
At first, sprouts can be watered only from a spray bottle. Do not flood immature plants, but do not let them dry out.
After about two weeks, you need to dive sprouts. Plants should be watered very well and then transplanted into separate containers or into a box at a distance of 6 centimeters from each other in each direction.
After diving, seedlings need to be fed for the first time. To do this, 8-12 g of ammonium nitrate, 40 g of superphosphate and 7-10 g of potassium sulfate are diluted in 10 liters of water. The second time they are fed after 10 days. For this purpose, a mixture mineral fertilizers. A few days before disembarkation, a third top dressing is carried out.
The last condition for growing strong seedlings for open beds will be hardened before planting. This procedure will allow the plants to adapt to changing weather conditions. Hardening should begin a few days before planting. First of all, for several hours they open the window window where the seedlings stand. Gradually, this time increases to 8 hours. At the end, the plants are taken outside to get used to the open air.
Seedlings of tomatoes at home on the windowsill
Timing and preparation of seedlings for planting
Now let's talk about how much time it takes to prepare seedlings. We mentioned the preparation of plants above. It is worth adding that for planting you need to choose the best seedlings with a large number of leaves and a developed root system.
The best time for landing is the end of spring. In May, the seedlings are still covered with foil. And in open ground can be planted from the first days of June. Planting tomatoes depends not only on weather conditions, but also on the age of the seedlings. The optimal age is considered to be from 50 days for early-ripening to 70 days for late-ripening tomatoes.
Determining the readiness of seedlings
How do you know when it's time to plant tomatoes? If the sprouts meet the following conditions, then you can plant seedlings:
- their height is 15-30 centimeters;
- the diameter of the barrel is equal to the thickness of the pencil;
- it has at least 6 leaves;
- sprouts already have buds or inflorescences;
- suitable temperature for planting seedlings in the ground.
Transplanting
The sprouts are ready and the time has come for the main event for growing plants - planting seedlings of tomatoes in open ground. On a pre-prepared bed, you need to make holes at a distance of 40 centimeters from each other. Next, you need to carefully remove the seedlings from the container and put them in the hole together with the ground, then cover with earth from the garden. After all the seedlings are planted, they are carefully watered. You can immediately put the pegs in order to later tie up the stems. If the plants have grown at home, they are buried deeper or planted lying down.
The first 5 days it is better not to water the tomatoes. Then you need to water them abundantly once a week, if the weather is dry, then more often. After 10 days, you can carry out the first top dressing.
Caring for tomatoes in the open field
After landing, you should not relax, because the plants require constant care and care. Let's talk about caring for tomatoes in open ground.
Watering
Before the appearance of the ovary, it is not recommended to be zealous with watering, you just need to slightly moisten the soil. As mentioned above, watering is carried out once a week. In this case, water should be poured exactly under the root. To begin with, 1 liter of water will be enough, then you can increase it to 2 liters. The water should be well and warm, so it is better to water the plants in the evening. Cold water can harm tomatoes. If you are using tap water, it must be defended before this.
Remember! Tomatoes do not tolerate excessive moisture, this can lead to fungal diseases.
Top dressing, fertilizers and seedlings processing
For top dressing, the same fertilizers are used as at home. It should be done every 2 weeks. If you do not want to use chemical top dressing, you can use folk remedies:
- Watering plants with nettle infusion. This infusion contains many useful trace elements.
- Using a wood ash solution. This will not only saturate the earth with phosphorus and potassium, but also protect the tomatoes from pests.
Garter
Remember when planting tomatoes you placed pegs. Now it's time to tie the grown stems to them. This should not be done tightly, it is enough that the stem simply rests on the peg. As they grow, it is worth bandaging them higher.
Pinching and pruning
When analyzing the types of seeds, we mentioned that some species do not need pinching. At the same time, for most tomatoes it is necessary. This is necessary in order to form bushes, since this directly affects the growth, maturity and size of future fruits. During pinching, the main stem is left, and all excess is removed. In this way, all the nutrients get into the fruits, and not into the leaves. This procedure should be done constantly.
Diseases and pests
Like any crop, tomatoes are prone to disease. The most common of them are:
1. Mosaic. With this disease, yellow spots appear on the tomatoes. It is useless to treat it, because it is transmitted through infected seeds. Only prevention will help - the seeds must be processed before use.
2. bacteriosis. This disease is the withering of plants in the shortest possible time. It is useless to treat diseased plants, but healthy ones can be protected. To do this, spray them with a solution of Fitolavin.
3. stem necrosis. This disease affects the stem during fruit formation. The plant wilts and dies before it matures. The source of the disease can be seeds and contaminated soil.
4. Alternariosis. It is a leaf and stem fungus. You can get rid of it if you tear off the infected leaves in time.
5. Phytophthora. Almost all gardeners are afraid of this terrible disease. This is a fungal disease that spreads in areas of high humidity. It is capable of destroying almost all fruits. Even in the evening you can admire your tomatoes, and in the morning you will find them blackened. In order to avoid this, you need to monitor the humidity in the garden. Another way to protect plants is to water the beds with lactic acid, which prevents the appearance of fungi.
6. Gray rot. This disease manifests itself at the end of the season, when the air temperature begins to fall. To eliminate it, it is necessary to cut off the affected leaves.
7. brown rot. It affects the core of the fetus, so they become unfit for food. To avoid this, fresh manure should not be used.
Now let's talk about pests that can become a threat to the tomato crop.
The most common among them:
1. whitefly. At first glance, you might think that such a small white butterfly is completely harmless, but it is capable of destroying plants in two weeks. She lays eggs in the leaves, from which caterpillars subsequently appear. They begin to feed on the stems and leaves of tomatoes, which leads to the death of the plant. To prevent this, you need to spray the stems with Aktar's solution.
2. Bed bugs. Unfortunately, they live in almost every garden. Bed bugs infect the fruits of tomatoes. You can get rid of them with the help of special preparations: Phosphamide, Chlorophos.
4. Colorado beetle. This pest prefers potatoes, but is not averse to eating tomatoes. It is especially dangerous in the spring, when potatoes have not yet been planted. Fortunately, there are many means to destroy it.
5. Medvedka. This insect lives in the ground and breaks through numerous passages, thereby damaging the roots of plants. In order to avoid this, summer residents use various traps: they stick aspen pegs, fill mink with oil, bury garlic or use special poisons.
6. wireworm. This pest eats the roots of plants, because of which they die. You can get rid of it with the help of onion peel, pine needles, mustard powder or special chemicals. They need to be put in the soil, then they will slow down the spread of the wireworm.
7. Aphid. These small insects are capable of destroying a seedling in a few days. To combat them, use an ash-soap solution, tobacco, hot pepper and more.
Care in July and August
The main stages of tomato care take place in the spring and June, but do not forget about the care in July and August. It is during these months that unexpected pests may appear or weather conditions deteriorate. The main tomatoes are already beginning to ripen and it is unlikely that anything will interfere with them, but at the same time new fruits begin to set. It is at this time that it is important to continue the process of feeding and pinching plants, as well as processing stems from pests.
After mid-August, it is necessary to cut off all the tops and flowers so that the remaining fruits have time to ripen.
When the temperature at night begins to drop below 10 degrees Celsius, you need to collect all the fruits.
In this case, green tomatoes will ripen at home. To do this, they need to be put in boxes and sent to a dark place. To speed up this process, green tomatoes are mixed with red ones and put together.
Schemes for planting tomatoes in open ground
Planting sprouts also has some nuances. From correct location plants depends on their fertility. It is important that they have enough space, warmth and moisture. For this, special schemes for planting tomatoes in the ground were developed.
in rows
Such a scheme for planting tomatoes is simple and does not require special knowledge and skills. The main advantages of such a planting of tomatoes are: sufficient lighting and air circulation between the rows. The disadvantages include the fact that it will require a considerable area. Therefore, this method is not suitable for small areas.
Tape-nested method
Similar to seating in rows. It consists in digging trench tapes, on the sides of which tomatoes are planted. This will reduce the time for processing plants, controlling weeds and loosening the soil. The tape-nest method is usually suitable for tomatoes that need a garter.
Square socket method
This is the most suitable choice for open ground. This is the most fertile and effective option for planting tomato seedlings. With the square-nested method, an imaginary square is drawn, at the corners of which holes are formed. Several seedlings are placed in these holes. After a while, the strongest of them will remain, and the rest must be thrown away.
Distance between tomatoes in open ground
To make them comfortable, when planting, it is important to maintain a certain distance between the sprouts. The distance between tomatoes in the open field depends on the method of seating or on the size of the seedlings. So when landing in rows keep the following distance:
- early ripe varieties planted with an interval of 35 centimeters between plants,
- mid-season- 45 centimeters apart,
- late-ripening- 60 centimeters.
Now you know a little more about the technology of growing these bright and tasty vegetables. By following all the instructions above, you can get good harvest tomatoes.
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Based on the tomato variety, geographical location region, determine the timing of planting seedlings in the garden. After the air warms up to a temperature of 12 degrees and above, there is a guarantee that young plants will not die from frost, they are planted in open ground.
Plants with 6-9 full leaves and a height of 25 cm are considered ready for planting. In greenhouses overgrown with weeds, their height can be much higher. It is best to plant adult seedlings at the age of 50-60 days (taking into account the variety of characteristics). But such seedlings are more difficult to grow so that they do not stretch in length.
Early varieties of tomatoes are considered ready for planting in open ground when they have the first buds on flower tassels. This happens due to compliance with the regimes in greenhouses and especially the hardening of young plants during its growth period (after the fifth leaf).
In the first warm days, seedlings are planted in open ground so that the plants take root before the return of cold weather, in a well-heated area of high relief. In summer cottages and household plots, temporary shelters are used with film, paper caps and other devices. Seedlings are planted in batches, leaving part of the seedlings of this age for replanting in case of frost damage. The remaining tomato seedlings should be planted at the end of spring frosts.
On the eve of planting, greenhouses or nurseries are watered abundantly with water so that the seedlings become fresh, and to keep a clod of earth on its roots during sampling and before planting. The number of seedlings per area is calculated from the feeding area. For varieties with a vigorous bush, the distance between rows is 70 cm, and between plants in a row is 40 cm.
Pits for seedlings are prepared manually with a shovel, they are dug along long planting rows in order to lay the seedlings with a stem along the hole, adjusting the planting depth: tall and long seedlings are planted deeper, short ones are smaller, leaving plants of the same height on the surface. The embedded roots and part of the stem of the plant will lie along the row with such a planting.
This, when processed with a hoe, will avoid damage to the underground part of the stems, reduce the number of dead plants.
It is very important to pre-water the hole when planting, and then close it around the seedlings with dry earth or humus. This will provide additional protection tomatoes and good survival of plants. Row-spacing compacted during planting can be loosened immediately.
The exact timing of planting tomatoes in open ground has not been established. When you can plant it depends on the variety, weather, air and soil temperature, and its humidity. In various regions optimal conditions for tomatoes come in different time.
Some gardeners, when determining the timing of planting tomato seedlings, pay attention to the recommendations of the Lunar calendar. According to him, auspicious days in 2019 come:
- in March - 17-20 and 24-28;
- in April - 2, 7, 8, 11, 20-21, 27-29;
- in May - 8-10, 12-19, 28, 31;
- in June - 1-6, 9-14.
There are also days when it is better not to plant tomatoes in open ground. These are March 2, 16, 31, April 15-17, April 30, May 11, 20, 30 and June 7, 15.
For different regions
There are also approximate dates when it is permissible to plant tomato seedlings in different climatic regions. Early varieties in the south are planted already in the 2nd half of April, in middle lane and in the Moscow region - in the 1st half of May, in Siberia and the Urals - from the end of May and in the 1st half of June.
Mid-season plants are planted in the south in the 1st half of May, in the Middle lane - in the 2nd half or early summer. Planting seedlings of late-ripening tomatoes in open ground in the south is carried out in May. Planting tomato seeds is carried out at the same time.
Seedlings ready for transplanting should be short (up to 20 cm), with well-developed roots, with a thick strong stem and 3-5 pairs of leaves. Their color can be either light or dark green. Such plants may already have buds. The age of the tomato should be approximately 1.5-2 months.
Here, the choice of a suitable site, the sequence of planting and the distance at which tomatoes can be placed from each other are important.
To plant tomatoes on the beds in the open field, you first need to prepare the ground for them. Preparation is carried out in autumn or spring about 0.5-1 month before transplanting seedlings.
The place where tomatoes will grow should be sunny, open, but protected from strong winds. Good predecessors are legumes, cabbage, pumpkin, root crops, greens. Do not plant tomatoes after nightshade - peppers, eggplant, potatoes and the tomatoes themselves. After them, you need to wait 3-4 years.
The preferred type of soil is light loam and sandy loam, sand should be added to heavy soil, and clay soil to sandy soil. The acidity of the soil for tomatoes in open ground is 6.5–7 pH, that is, neutral or slightly acidic. Acidic and alkaline soils are not suitable for growing tomatoes. To make acidic soil comfortable for the growth of tomatoes, it is limed - the required amount of slaked lime is added to it. This is done in autumn or spring, but at least a month before the proposed transplantation of tomatoes in the garden.
The preparation of the beds consists in deep digging them in the fall (to a depth of approximately 20-25 cm) and applying fertilizers - mineral or organic. From organics for tomatoes, you can use well-rotted humus or compost. In the spring, ash or mineral fertilizers are applied.
1.5 weeks before transplanting plants to the beds, they are hardened: they are taken out into the open air, first for 2 hours, but this time is increased every day. If the seedlings have outgrown, 3-5 days before the transplant, the lower leaves are cut off so that the plants can be planted horizontally.
1 day before transplantation, tomatoes are treated with a solution of copper sulfate (15 g of the drug per bucket of water). Such treatment of seedlings before planting protects it from infection with infectious diseases. Plant roots can be shed with solutions of root stimulants.
The best time for planting tomato seedlings in open ground is evening or early morning, the weather is cloudy. This is necessary so that the seedlings do not wither in the sun after they are transplanted to permanent place.
The tomato planting scheme must meet the requirements of plants for the nutritional area, which is calculated in accordance with the characteristics of the variety. The distance between tomatoes when planting should be:
- 30-70 cm in rows and 40-50 cm between rows (for undersized tomatoes and cherry tomatoes);
- 50-60 cm in rows and 50-70 cm between them (for medium height);
- 60-70 cm in rows and 70-90 cm between rows (for tall ones).
The depth to which seedlings can be lowered into the ground is about 10 cm, but if you deepen it even lower, then there will be no harm, since tomatoes are able to grow additional roots on the stems. Seedlings grown in peat pots are planted along with them. Plants are placed vertically or at a slight slope. The earth is slightly tamped.
Planting overgrown seedlings is done differently. It is laid horizontally in the grooves, so that most of stem was in the ground. If for some reason the beds were not fertilized before planting, then it is necessary to apply fertilizer when planting a tomato in doses directly into the wells.
Tomato seedlings are planted in open ground from mid-April to mid-June. Planting is carried out in accordance with the climatic characteristics of the region and the varietal characteristics of plants. In addition, the Lunar calendar comes to the rescue, in which you can find out favorable and unfavorable days for landing.
By region
Depending on the current weather conditions and the climatic features of the region, the timing of planting tomato seedlings in open ground varies.
- In the South, tomato seedlings are planted from late April to early June,
- in the Middle lane in the second half of May - early June,
- in the Urals and Siberia from late May to mid-June.
Mid-ripening tomatoes are planted a little later:
- in the South - from the beginning of May,
- in the middle lane - in early June.
Dates can be shifted until the air warms up to 20 degrees, and the earth up to 15 degrees of heat. The depth of soil heating should be 20 centimeters, that is, the approximate depth of the landing hole.
According to the 2018 lunar calendar, the most auspicious days for planting tomato seedlings:
- in April - 20-24,
- in May - 4-9, 18-26,
- in June - 14, 15, 21, 22 numbers.
When landing on other days, you should avoid bad days, which fall on:
- April 29, 30,
- 14-16, 19, 29-30 May,
- 12, 13, 28 June.
These days, the Moon has a bad effect on plants and prevents them from rooting and further growth.
If planting tomato seedlings is carried out under a covering film or under any other material, then planting is carried out a week earlier than when planting in open ground. The landing date is April 20 - May 25.
Shelter is removed after the plants are rooted and when constant warm weather is established.
Planting tomato seedlings must be taken with all responsibility. This crop is quite demanding on growing conditions, and if you miss even one moment, you can be left without a crop.
2 weeks before transplanting into the ground, home seedlings must be hardened. It is placed on a balcony, loggia or window sill with an opening window (window). The ventilation time gradually increases from 1 to 8 hours. The day before planting, containers with seedlings are placed under a canopy or in open greenhouse. Direct sunlight should not touch the plants.
7 days before transplanting into the ground, seedlings are fertilized with complex mineral fertilizers.
In elongated seedlings, the lower leaves are removed 3-5 days before transplantation.
The day before planting, seedlings are treated with pesticides. To protect against phytophthora and blotches, plants are sprayed with copper sulfate (15 grams per bucket of water) before planting.
Disadvantages and advantages
Among the disadvantages of growing seedlings, the following can be distinguished:
- expenditure of time and effort;
- inability to grow large volumes due to lack of space and a large number lighting;
- seedlings can grow weak and sick - they will not give a good harvest.
However, this procedure also has its advantages:
- the agronomist will be sure that the seedlings are grown without the addition of any chemicals;
- if you manage to grow seedlings correctly, you can get a high yield.
Planting seedlings correctly
It is desirable to prepare beds for tomatoes in the fall. During digging, humus is introduced onto them and wood ash. High-moor peat and coarse sand are added to heavy soil. If desired, green manure can be sown on the site, which will later serve as a natural fertilizer.
2-3 weeks before planting tomatoes in open ground, the earth in the beds is weeded, dug up, leveled.
Holes are dug with a shovel along the rows. The depth of the holes depends on the height of the seedlings. Overgrown plants require deeper, elongated holes.
With absence autumn training a mixture of ash, superphosphate and rotted compost is introduced into the wells. Each well is watered with 3-4 liters of water.
Before transplanting seedlings, prepared wells are spilled with a warm solution of potassium permanganate (1 gram per 10 liters of water) or Fitosporin. This treatment eliminates pathogenic bacteria in the soil and protects plants from diseases.
On the eve of planting, seedlings in containers are spilled with water to preserve an earthy coma on the roots during transplantation.
When buying ready-made seedlings, strong plants with a strong root system or in cups with 6-10 leaves are selected. Plants may have first buds. The color of the foliage can be either light or dark, depending on the variety of tomato.
Tomato seedlings should be planted in the early morning, in cloudy weather or late in the evening.
Seedlings in peat pots are planted directly in them. Plants with an open root system are carefully removed from the ground and, together with an earthy clod, are placed in a hole.
When planting, seedlings are buried to the cotyledon leaves or deeper (while the lower leaves are removed). Stretched, overgrown and tall tomatoes are planted at an angle, while part of the stem is buried. With this planting, the lower leaves are cut off, which are flush with the ground.
After the roots fall asleep, the soil is slightly pressed and sprinkled with dry earth or compost on top. Overgrown, thin and tall tomatoes are tied to supports. Low-growing tomatoes are mulched with hay, rotted sawdust, needles. Tall varieties can not be mulched yet. Mulching of such plants is carried out after the complete rooting of the seedlings and another removal of the lower leaves.
Tomatoes planted in the ground can be watered with a solution of Kornevin, Heteroauxin or sprayed with Epin-Extra. This treatment allows you to strengthen the plants and stimulates their further growth.
For the first time, the plants are covered with a film or any other covering material.
The best option is hardening on outdoors while the residence time should gradually increase. This adaptation can take up to two weeks. During this period of time, the plant gets used to the outdoor temperature and sunlight. Ultimately, seedlings can be left overnight, but only if frost is not expected.
Kira Stoletova
In the process of cultivating tomatoes, the growth and development of the plant is significantly influenced by the climate and compliance with the rules of planting. We will tell you when tomato seedlings should be planted in open ground.
Preparatory activities
The success of the future harvest directly depends on the correct planting of tomatoes in open ground. Among the main preparatory measures for planting tomatoes, soil preparation occupies a special place. To prepare tomatoes for open ground begin long before planting procedures, even in the fall.
Location selection
For planting tomatoes in open ground on personal plot choose a place lit by the sun's rays and not in the shade.
When choosing a bed, it is important to adhere to the principles of crop rotation: do not plant tomatoes in the same place for several years in a row. This will protect tomato seedlings from late blight.
Potatoes will also become a bad predecessor for tomatoes: it is able to accumulate and give away plant diseases through the ground. The predecessors, after which tomatoes are planted in open soil, are beets, carrots, corn and beans.
fertilizers
It is recommended to fertilize the soil before winter, introducing rotted manure fertilizer or humus at the rate of 1 bucket per 1 sq. m of sown area. With an insufficient amount of fertilizer, it can be applied locally 7 days before planting seedlings directly into the wells, adding a handful of ash powder or humus with your own hands.
Disinfection
Approximately 7 days before the scheduled time for planting tomatoes with seedlings in open ground, the land is cultivated blue vitriol, acting as a protection for future plantings from fungal infectious diseases.
Digging
In the spring, immediately before planting young tomatoes in open ground, the soil layer that has compacted during the winter is dug up and loosened.
In order not to dig the soil a second time in spring, but only to loosen it, it is necessary to properly dig in the fall. Autumn digging of the soil is carried out lumpy, without breaking lumps. The soil dug up in this way accumulates precipitation well in the autumn-winter period, but in the spring it is quickly ventilated and crumbles easily. As soon as the soil becomes "physically ripe" it is loosened with a rake.
Disembarkation rules
Planting tomato seedlings in open ground depends on the climate and variety.
Timing
Depending on the climatic conditions of each region, the timing of planting tomatoes in open soil is different.
Some people watch the blossoming birch leaves, believing that by the time they appear, the earth is warming up enough. For residents of the southern regions, the chirping of cicada insects becomes an impetus.
One rule for moving young seedlings to their permanent growing location remains the same: keeping the number of night frosts to a minimum. It will be better if, at a depth of approximately 0.4 m, the soil warms up to a temperature of at least 15 ° C. In some cases, summer residents cover the beds with foil to create additional warmth.
Failure to comply with the planting dates leads to disastrous consequences for the future crop:
- planted root system ahead of time seedlings will not recover well, as it makes it difficult for her to absorb nutrients;
- a long period of low temperatures leads to the death of plants;
- early planted young bushes are more likely to suffer from infectious diseases and are affected by fungi,
- Plants not moved to harsh conditions in time develop slowly and show reduced yields.
The average time for transplanting tomato seedlings is in the middle or end of May. It is possible to choose the most favorable number according to lunar calendar.
It is better if the tomato bushes by the time of transplantation in May have already turned at least a month old (for an early variety) and at least 45 days (for late varieties). Summer residents start sowing seeds in March.
If it is impossible to determine the age of young sprouts (for example, when buying in a store), you need to pay attention to their appearance. Ready for transplanting into open soil, tomato seedlings have a thick stem with 6-8 leaves.
In cool weather, it is imperative to resort to sheltering plants at night with non-woven material (for example, film), as well as to help cardboard boxes and buckets.
Varieties
The right variety will allow seedlings to better cope with temperature fluctuations. Summer residents use zoned varieties with increased resistance, on the bags of which there is always a mark that the seedlings are suitable for planting in open ground. Hybrids tolerate temperature changes well.
Landing patterns
The scheme for planting tomatoes in open soil is selected according to the variety:
- for tall varieties that form a bush of 1-2 stems and grown on a trellis support, a lot of space is not required,
- for plants with powerful and sprawling bushes, more space will be required.
The less often tomato bushes are planted, the higher the yield. This is explained by the fact that with a rare planting, each plant receives enough sun and air, and care is simplified.
Square nest method
With a square-nested planting pattern, the bushes form the shape of a square or nest. Bushy species are planted in this way. The smaller distance between tomato seedlings should be about 0.8 m.
When using this method, caring for the crop becomes easier.
Tatyana Orlova (Candidate of Agricultural Sciences):
The square-nest planting method implies that the plants are planted according to a scheme, for example, 50 x 50 cm or 70 x 70 cm, and not one, but several plants are planted in each hole. This method of planting has more disadvantages than positives.
Tape method
With a tape scheme, you will have to dig a trench up to 0.3 m. Holes are made in it at a distance of 0.3-0.4 m from each other, where the seedlings are placed. Each trench should be no closer than 0.7-0.8 m.
Among the main advantages tape circuit- saving of landing area and ease of irrigation, which can be done using a hose stretched along the trench.
Tape-nested method
The tape-nesting method of planting tomato seedlings involves the presence of a trench, on the sides of which bushes are planted. Unlike the simple tape method, the distance between the trenches increases to 1.5 m. Bushes can also be planted 0.2-0.3 m apart.
This planting pattern also saves bed space and is suitable for compact varieties.
Chess method
The staggered planting method is similar to the tape-nesting method, only the seedlings are planted on the sides of the trench so that the bush from the second row falls into the middle between two bushes of the first row. This allows you to save even more acreage.
seedling preparation
Tomato seedlings must be hardened before planting in open ground. This will allow her to get used to the lower temperature. Hardening begins 10 days before the expected planting dates, taking them out to an open balcony, where the air temperature reaches at least 15 ° C. The time spent by young seedlings on the street should not initially exceed 2 hours, it is increased every day.
Hardened seedlings take root easily and almost do not get sick after transplanting to a permanent place.
On the day of planting, tomato seedlings are treated with phytosporin against late blight disease. The solution is prepared 1 hour before processing, a young sprout is completely dipped into it.
It is recommended to water the seedlings approximately 1 hour before the proposed transplant procedure. This facilitates the subsequent exit of the earthy coma from the container where the sprout was germinated. When planting, the root system of young seedlings is not damaged, and the lump of earth, along with the seedlings, is easily shaken out.
Disembarkation process
In young shoots, the lower rows of leaves are first removed in order to easily deepen the plant by 5 cm. Such a deep planting allows the root system to grow and develop well. Immediately before planting young bushes, 1.5-2.0 liters of water are poured into each prepared hole. Tomato seedlings are placed there while the liquid has not yet had time to be absorbed.
Planting tomato seedlings in open soil is recommended in the evening. This gives her the opportunity to settle down faster in the first hours.
For tall varieties, pegs are immediately inserted into the holes, and only then a young bush is placed. This sequence allows you not to damage the root system of the plant.
Aftercare
Initial care comes down to monitoring the condition of transplanted young shoots.
Shelter
Temperature is important in the early days. environment. Shade seedlings in bright sun. From night frosts, tomato plantings are necessarily covered.
Watering
It is not recommended to water the tomato seedlings planted in open soil during the first 10 days. Excessive moisture, until the plants have taken root and started to grow, leads to decay. After this period of time, watering tomato bushes is required as needed. Usually the frequency of watering is once every 10 days. In the dry season, watering becomes more frequent up to once a week.
TOMATOES IN OPEN GROUND: LANDING RULES
Planting Tomato Seedlings in Open Ground / THE SECRET OF PRODUCTIVE PLANTING OF TOMATOES!!!
mineral nutrition
Already after the initial watering, it can be noted how the tomato bushes began to grow and began to gain green mass. This is the time for the first feeding, which usually begins three weeks after transplanting the plants into open soil.
As fertilizers, organics and a nitrogen-rich solution with bird droppings, which is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:15. After a three-week break, a second organic top dressing is carried out, which involves the introduction of mullein diluted in a ratio of 1:10.
pasynkovanie
The pinching procedure is necessary to dilute too dense plantings and increase their yield. Stepchildren are also removed so that the plant does not waste energy on building up green mass, but directs all the nutrients to the formation of fruits.
Tatyana Orlova (Candidate of Agricultural Sciences):
Pasynkovanie - a technique that does not increase productivity, because each new stepson carries new brushes with inflorescences. The main task of this technique is to guarantee an early harvest, because. in a cold climate, the crop on stepchildren will not have time to ripen.
Planting tomatoes in a permanent place is always stressful for the plant, especially if it is not a greenhouse, but a vegetable garden. He is torn out of his usual environment, and, not only is he placed in new conditions, he is left in the open. Even if hardening was carried out before planting, this may not be enough. The gardener must do everything so that the seedlings take root as quickly as possible and grow.
If you plant tomatoes in cold soil, they will stop growing, and even after the onset of stable heat, they will move away from shock for a long time. The temperature of the earth at the time of moving to a permanent place should be at least 15 ° C.
According to the lunar calendar
Whether to adhere to the lunar calendar is a personal matter for every gardener. There is nothing wrong with following him. But for those who are not firmly convinced that a good harvest cannot be obtained without looking at the moon, and who still doubts, it is recommended to pay attention to this fact. Planting tomato seedlings in open ground by large farms is carried out on the basis of:
- ground and air temperatures;
- weather forecasts;
- age and readiness of seedlings for transplantation.
And never tied to the lunar calendar! For some reason, farmers' crops have not yet rotted in the bud in any season. And their products are often bought for harvesting, even by gardeners who calculate favorable days for planting tomatoes with an eye to the stars. There is something to think about.
It is believed that tomato transplantation should be carried out on the growing moon. In 2020, the most auspicious days:
- May - 1-6, 15, 19, 24, 31;
- June - 1, 11, 16, 20.
For different regions
Planting tomatoes in open ground is carried out when weather conditions allow. IN different years time may differ for one region. You can focus on the weather forecast and the following dates:
- south - at the beginning or middle of May, with early spring - even in the third decade of April;
- The middle lane is from the end of May to the middle of June;
- in cool regions, on the border of the crop growing zone, it is possible to plant tomatoes no earlier than the beginning of June, even if warm weather has set in May - there is a threat of return frosts.
At what temperature can tomatoes be planted
It is inconvenient to focus on a soil temperature of 15 ° C that is favorable for planting tomatoes. Not everyone can measure it. It is much easier to compare the air temperature at different times of the day. Planting tomatoes can be carried out when it reaches:
- at night - at least 15 ° С;
- during the day - not less than 22 ° C.
How to plant seedlings of tomatoes in open ground
Proper planting of tomatoes allows the culture to quickly adapt to new conditions, bloom earlier and give the first fruits. Everything matters - from the age of seedlings and soil preparation to the distance between the bushes.
But the reality is that most gardeners and farmers have no choice but to plant tomatoes in their original place, or in close proximity to potatoes, peppers, eggplants. Therefore, soil improvement should be carried out regularly.
The best predecessors for tomatoes are onions, cucumbers or cabbage. Ideal - green manure.
Site preparation
For growing tomatoes, choose a sunny, well-ventilated place, but protected from strong gusts. Tomatoes prefer a loose, permeable substrate with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction. On heavy soils, they grow poorly and often get sick. Permanently soiling the soil is the fastest and most reliable way to ruin seedlings.
It is good if soil preparation is carried out in the fall. When making organic matter for planting, it must be borne in mind that it must be completely rotted. Tomatoes do not tolerate fresh manure.
Acidic soils are improved with lime or dolomite flour. The latter additionally saturates the substrate with the much-needed phosphorus for tomatoes. By the beginning of the growing season, dolomite will just begin to decompose, and will move into an easily digestible phase.
The site is dug up on a spade bayonet, stones and roots of weeds are removed. Organics, peat, complex fertilizers of prolonged action are introduced. Rationing of additional components depends on the fertility and composition of the soil. You can focus on such average doses (sq. M):
- humus - 7 kg;
- lime - 0.5 kg;
- superphosphate - 40 g.
If installing arches or other temporary shelters over tomato bushes is not a problem for the hosts, soil warming can be accelerated. It is covered with a black non-woven fabric, and cellophane is laid on top to prevent moisture from evaporating.
Planting scheme for tomatoes
The scheme for planting tomatoes in open ground depends on the variety, the method of processing the beds and the desire of the owners. Caring for tomatoes should be easy.
Undersized varieties
Usually, superdeterminant or standard early ripening varieties are planted in open ground. They will quickly give up the harvest, and, subject to the terms of sowing seeds, they will have time to get away from phytophthora. At this place, it will be possible to plant green manure, greens, onions on a feather, asparagus beans or daikon.
Convenient placement of low-growing tomatoes that do not require pinching - a two-line method. Draw strips at a distance of 20 cm, holes - every 40 cm, between rows - about a meter.
It may seem to novice gardeners that a lot of space is empty, but soon the bushes will grow. They will be well ventilated, which will reduce the risk of illness.
Medium and tall tomatoes
The placement of determinant and indeterminate varieties or hybrids is carried out according to the scheme recommended by the manufacturer. You can change it only in the direction of increasing the distance between the bushes.
Tall tomatoes in the open field lead to one stem, be sure to tie up. That is why many gardeners refuse to grow them in the beds, and plant them only in greenhouses.
Meanwhile, it is not difficult at all to dig in a support every 2-3 meters and fasten a strong wire from above. Considering that crop rotation is still not observed in small areas, it will stand for several seasons.
And there are many advantages of growing tall tomatoes in the open field in the absence of a greenhouse:
- Space saving. To get a crop from tall tomatoes in the garden, they are led into one stem.
- Tied bushes of a pyramidal shape, in which stepchildren and leaves are regularly removed under the brushes that have begun to pour, are well ventilated. This significantly reduces the risk of developing diseases.
- Long fruiting.
- Easy care. When maintaining a tomato in 1 stalk, soil cultivation and harvesting are greatly simplified.
You need to plant tall varieties in the same way as in a greenhouse:
- between rows 80-90 cm;
- holes after 45-50 cm.
Some gardeners are accustomed to working on their knees or sitting on a low stool. They should make such aisles so that it is convenient to take care of the tomatoes, and the bushes on the opposite side are not injured.
Well preparation
For planting normally developing seedlings, holes are dug of such a size that the root and part of the stem can comfortably fit there. At the bottom there should be space for starting fertilizers, and on the side for bedding.
Overgrown tomatoes need to be transplanted with a significant deepening of the trunk. First you need to choose a method (there are several of them), and then determine the depth and width of the hole.
Under each root, when planting, add 4 tablespoons of a mixture consisting of equal parts:
- complex fertilizer containing nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus;
- lime or dolomite flour is a source of calcium, and the latter gradually releases phosphorus during decomposition;
- tobacco dust - it protects tomatoes from many pests, reduces the likelihood of a number of diseases;
- dry mustard powder - the component complements the previous one, which is especially important in the absence of crop rotation.
Homemade "cocktail" is well mixed with the soil. From above, a layer of clean fertile soil is made. So the root will not burn on contact with fertilizers, but will stretch down.
Completely fill the hole with water. Allow liquid to be absorbed. Now you can plant tomatoes.
Planting process
The readiness of seedlings for transplanting into the ground is determined by its age:
- for early standard and superdeterminant varieties and hybrids, this is 40-50 days after germination;
- determinant medium and late ripening are planted at the age of 55-60 days;
- indeterminate ones need 60-65 days from the appearance of the first loops.
Before planting, tomatoes are not watered for 1-3 days (depending on conditions), so that the leaves wilt a little and the stems become soft - this is less likely to break the trunk. But it’s also impossible to overdry a lump - even abundant watering will not be able to wet it the first time, and no one will tear the ground and check it.
Regardless of the method of planting on tomatoes, the cotyledon leaves are removed. If the trunk is going to be buried, it is recommended to determine in advance how much and cut off the plates, which are supposed to be below the ground level.
You can perform the operation immediately before landing, but better - a few days. The wound surface will heal, the risk of infection will be minimized. In addition, this will save time.
Planting normal seedlings
Thanks to proper care strong low seedlings:
- They take it out of the container, trying not to disturb the earthen ball.
- Put in the center of the hole.
- Fall asleep with a substrate, compacting it during planting. This will prevent the formation of voids, provide better adhesion of the root to the ground, and accelerate the survival of tomatoes.
- Abundantly watered.
- Mulch the surface under the bush with dry peat, soil, or spread non-woven material.
Planting overgrown tomatoes
For what reason, the seedlings stretched out - it does not matter. But you need to plant it a little differently, with deepening. It is important not to forget which variety the gardener is dealing with, and not to bury the place where the first flower brush will form:
- superdeterminant - 6-7 sheets;
- determinant - 8-9;
- indeterminate - 10-12.
Modern breeding tries to make varieties and hybrids bloom as early as possible. Therefore, the first fruit brush can form 1-2 leaves lower than is commonly believed. When planting, it is recommended to focus not only on established rules, but also to study the varietal description. It's a pity if the largest tomatoes are lost.
For planting overgrown tomatoes, digging a very deep hole to put the stem vertically does not make sense, and requires a lot of labor. It is better to use one of the following methods:
- Lying down. Dig an elongated inclined hole. The root of the tomato is placed in the lower part of the hole, the stem is laid on the soil. Fall asleep with a substrate so that the crown remains on the surface. You don’t even need to tie it up - the shoot reaches for the light, and will soon level out on its own. Watered.
- Spiral landing. The hole is dug shallow, but wide. An earthen ball is installed vertically in the center. The trunk is wrapped in a wide spiral, gradually pouring the substrate. Slightly compact and abundantly moisten the soil.
Planting in a spiral is not possible if the tomato was watered the day before, and the stem did not have time to fade a little. It will be too fragile, it will definitely break.
Planting tall varieties
It is in tall varieties in the open field that a thickened planting is possible. They are led in one trunk. They are planted as superdeterminant, only the rows are arranged in such a way that it is easy to tie up.
If there is no trellis, at the same time as planting tomatoes, a support is dug in next to each bush. Without it, it makes no sense to grow tall varieties - the stem will lie on the ground or break.
Further care
If you properly care for tomatoes immediately after planting, then they will cause a minimum of trouble. And they will give a good harvest.
Cold protection
Even in the south, after planting tomatoes, there can be strong differences between night and day temperatures. Under adverse weather conditions, it is recommended to cover the tomatoes with agrofiber or other non-woven material in the evening, and remove it in the morning.
In cool regions, when growing crops in the ground, gardeners are forced to build temporary shelters in advance. Otherwise, you will have to change the timing of planting seedlings to later ones. Accordingly, even early varieties may not ripen, as the fruiting time will be reduced.
Mulching
Soil protection retains moisture, prevents overheating of the root and prevents the germination of weeds. In addition, the lower leaves and shoots of tomatoes will not lie on the ground, which will significantly reduce infection by harmful microorganisms and protect the bushes from pests in the soil.
Used as mulch:
- straw;
- hay;
- cut grass;
- dried weeds (not inseminated);
- coniferous litter;
- dry peat;
- well-rotted sawdust or tyrsu.
Even mature humus contains too much nitrogen. Once the apples start to form, it will only harm the tomatoes, so it is not recommended for use.
It is easiest to cover the ground with black non-woven fabric. It is rare to arrange tomatoes on the beds in the same even rows as in a greenhouse. Holes for seedlings should not be pre-cut. It is recommended to do this:
- After planting tomatoes near the center of each bush, stick a cane slightly larger than the height of the stem into the ground.
- Cover the bed with agrofibre or spunbond.
- Sticks will indicate the location of the bushes. That's where the holes need to be cut.
Watering
During planting, the tomatoes received enough moisture to do without watering for the first 2 weeks. It is not necessary to pay attention to the leaves lowered in the middle of the day.
Of course, scorching heat can come on suddenly. Therefore, it is recommended to go out to the garden in the early morning and inspect the bushes. If the leaves are straightened, the tomatoes do not need moisture. They should be watered when the plates have not risen overnight.
top dressing
The first foliar top dressing is done a week after planting. It should contain all micro and macro elements. It is recommended to add an additional dose to the balloon boric acid(1/2 teaspoon per 10 liters of water), plus epin or zircon.
Under the root, tomatoes are fertilized 2 weeks after planting. The first time they do it:
- on overgrown tomatoes - easily digestible phosphorus-potassium fertilizer, for example, potassium monophosphate or Pekacid;
- normally developed seedlings are given a complete mineral complex.
Formation
2 weeks after planting, the formation of tomatoes begins. During this time, stepsons requiring removal will most likely appear on tall varieties. They need to be broken out, and the grown trunks should be twisted around the support or tied up. Low-growing superdeterminant and standard varieties do not need to be formed.
Planting tomatoes in open and protected ground are similar. But they have their own characteristics, without which it is impossible to get a good harvest. The main differences are in the timing of moving to a permanent place, and the way the bushes are formed, which affects the planting pattern.
