DIY sauna from foundation to roof. Do-it-yourself sauna from foundation to roof What is cheaper to build a do-it-yourself sauna from?

Bathhouse - there is so much in this word! The smell of birch brooms, beneficial steam, a tub of cold water on steamed shoulders, renewal of body and spirit in the pleasant coolness of the dressing room... It’s time, with pure thoughts, to begin the construction of a Russian bathhouse, which has come to us from the depths of centuries. The traditional “soap dish” cannot be replaced by any newfangled Jacuzzi bath or shower.

The foundation for a bathhouse is chosen based on its size and the type of soil on which it will stand. As a rule, the owner is faced with a choice between columnar And tape foundation.

The wooden sauna has light weight and can be reliably erected on shallow basis.

On columnar Wooden bathhouse foundations are installed more often in dachas. Such foundations are simpler; they are built from support pillars that are installed separately. The supports are built from reinforced concrete, brick, concrete or rubble stone. Pillars from natural material or brick (size 51-51 cm) are erected at the corners and walls of the building at a distance of about 2 m from each other.

Optimal cross section supports - 60-60 cm. Often a cushion of gravel and sand is placed under them.

The column foundation is built to a height 20-30 centimeters from the ground level, the top is leveled with mortar and covered 2-3 layers of roofing felt - waterproofing:

Let's move on to the second type of foundation.

Tape the foundation will cost more as it passes around the entire perimeter the buildings. A trench is pre-dug to a depth of 40-60 cm. A sand cushion is compacted at the bottom, the purpose of which is to protect the base from seasonal soil movements:

The foundation is fastened with mortar and filled with rubble, concrete or reinforced concrete blocks, and red brick. Rubble bases are made in different widths, depending on the size of the building and the internal structure of the bath.

Reliable and rubble concrete foundations. The following fillers are used: crushed stone, gravel, broken bricks. If the foundation depth is up to 1 meters, you first need to pour a layer of concrete onto the bottom of the trench. After this, add a layer of filler 15-25 cm, fill with solution and compact.

After leveling the base, install it on top waterproofing from two layers of roofing felt and filled with bitumen:

We invite you to read our article, which identifies the main mistakes that arise when arranging the foundation - what you need to know before you start pouring the foundation.

Tree- this is a traditional material for building a bathhouse, therefore we do not consider options for constructing walls from cinder blocks, bricks, foam blocks and other materials within the framework of the article. To build the perfect wooden bathhouse, you need to choose special log- after harvesting, the wood is “seasoned” for about 2 -x years.

Dried the wood does not contain “excess” moisture, and therefore does not deform and is resistant to cracking.

A wooden backing is laid on the waterproofing 50-60 mm thick and not less 150 mm wide, filled with tar or bitumen.

Before installation decorative crown(its lower surface is impregnated with antiseptic compounds) is spread on the lining in an even layer tow, dry moss or stripes mineral felt. And between the logs they place interventional seal.

Logs for external walls cut off on one side, for internal and partition walls- on both sides to depth 2-3 see. The cutting begins with the first (flat) crown; it is made from a log, hewn on both sides at an angle 90 °. The bottom surface of the wood is laid on the foundation, and its side becomes the beginning of the inner wall.

Avoiding the use of softwood wood is used to decorate the interior of the bathhouse alders, aspen, linden trees, less often - larches And cedar.

Aspen- this is an almost ideal answer to the question about choosing a material for interior decoration.

Ceiling in a log, brick and panel bathhouse it is done the same way. A distinctive feature of the ceiling for chopped “soap” is that it can be made of boards. This will give the structure a natural look. It turns out that the interior is “antique”, but there is also practical meaning: natural roofing provides intense air circulation with good thermal protection.

Can be arranged additional thermal insulation:

To perform installation ceiling for a bath, you need wood that has low thermal conductivity, tolerates changes in humidity and temperature well. Low resin content.

Temperature under the ceiling of the bathhouse is the highest and if the boards contain a lot of resin, then when it heats up, it will drip down. Therefore, wood should be used to decorate the ceiling and interior decoration of the steam room. exclusively hardwood.

Plank floors laid in this way: first, brick pillars with a section of 25-25 cm, logs are laid on top of them. Boards are laid along the joists 20-30 mm thickness:

Material moisture should not exceed the indicator 12 %, otherwise the boards will begin to deform after laying.

Stone floors for a bath they last much longer. Concrete mortar must be poured on top of the gravel bed. Such floors are durable and reliable, however, they still have one, but large flaw: They are cold. Therefore, wooden ladders or planks must be laid on top of the concrete floor.

You can also do warm floor. To make it, use any heat insulator: glass wool, mineral wool, basalt wool, expanded clay, perlite, expanded polystyrene.

Roof and roofing

The rafter roof consists of the following elements:

Rafter truss. A rigid bundle of beams that serves to distribute and absorb loads that arise in the system. Rafters are the main massive parts of the structure onto which the weight of the entire roof is distributed. Stiffening ribs enhance the stability of the beams.

Lathing. A horizontal base made of timber, packed on top of the rafters to tightly fasten roofing materials.

Mauerlat. A wooden beam placed on top of the finished walls and used to connect the rafters to the walls of the building.

Below are the main, time-tested construction plans roofs:

There are wood-burning heaters 2 types: metal And brick. Let's talk about them in more detail and not ignore them electric ovens.

Metal furnaces

Metal A batch furnace without a container for heating water is very compact. In an iron casing with doors on metal shelves grates with a plate are laid, which make up the bottom of the combustion chamber.

There are cavities inside the body where they place stones. There are heaters open And closed types. When the stove is operating, gases enter the chimney pipe, passing through the channels. The firebox is usually lined with bricks:

The oven is equipped chimneys consisting of sinkholes and collecting pipes. The rock chamber has two doors, but chimneys are often installed to allow flue gases to enter the bottom of the rock chamber from the space around the duct.

Brick heaters

Construction brick heater begins with the construction of its foundation. To prevent the stove from sagging or tilting due to soil freezing or moisture, the base must be deepened to 0,5 meters. The transverse dimensions of the support should be more than the stove, one brick.

Furnace foundation no need to combine with wall. The distance between them is no less 5 centimeters.

The most the best base - rubble concrete or concrete. In dry soil it can be built from bricks using cement, lime or lime-cement mortar.

The surface of the foundation must be filled with cement-sand mortar, leveled with a lath and covered with waterproofing. Usually this is roofing felt or roofing felt, which is laid in 2 layer(item 4 in the diagram below):

Designations in the diagram are:

Sole.

Underground part.

Top ledge.

Waterproofing.

Kiln masonry.

Building material for the construction of a furnace- ordinary solid brick. In no case Sand-lime or hollow bricks cannot be used for masonry.

Electric heaters

IN modern baths air up 100 °C is most often heated electric heater with built-in automatic control device. The control unit turns off heating element when the temperature of the casing exceeds the permissible norm, as well as when, for example, towels come into contact with the oven.

Electric heater in the bathhouse must be equipped with a temperature limiter, disconnecting heating element, and a time relay that stops the supply of current to the heating element after a certain operating time (up to 5 hours). Today the market is full of various modifications.

Let's give some useful tips which will be useful when going to the bathhouse:

Dry birch firewood ideal for heating a stove in a bathhouse. Don't do unnecessary experiments.

For a beginner bath attendant the time spent in the steam room should not exceed 5 minutes. Experienced people can spend more time in the steam room: from 25 before 30 minutes.

The musty spirit in the bathhouse can be eliminated, if you add a few drops to the ladle ammonia and splash it on the stones. Don't forget to ventilate the steam room afterwards.

Don't go to the sauna on a full stomach. But on the contrary, you should eat a couple of cloves of garlic. This vegetable removes toxins well through sweat.

Contrary to popular belief, you should not take beer and, especially, strong alcohol with you to the bathhouse. Treat your body with tea or decoction of rose hips and raspberries.

Choose a picturesque place for a bathhouse. The courage of decisions is rewarded with double pleasure from the process.

Finally, we suggest you look video, in which the issue of building a bathhouse is discussed in detail:

A bathhouse is one of the most necessary buildings in a country house or private area. Like any other construction process, the construction of a bathhouse requires the investment of a considerable amount of finance, from the purchase of materials to payment for the services of builders, which does not always happen on time.

In this case, it makes sense to pay attention to less expensive projects that are designed to use resources as economically as possible.

Despite the fact that inexpensive baths have a less durable structure, with high-quality assembly and proper care it can last you quite a long time. Of course, the service life of the erected structure will in any case be inferior to the standard technology - the lightweight structure of the material will have an effect, but given its reduced cost, the difference will be quite justified.

This article will provide you with step-by-step instruction about how to build inexpensive sauna with your own hands. It will describe in detail the process of constructing a structure “from scratch”, which will allow you to carry out this activity absolutely independently.

Construction of a bathhouse

As experience shows, the cheapest baths have a frame structure, since they have a lightweight base, the costs of their construction are not so high. Exposure to humidity and elevated temperatures requires additional waterproofing of the frame and cladding, but even in this case the structure will cost you an order of magnitude cheaper than its monolithic counterparts.

Foundation

Most often it is built on piles, since this allows for significant savings in material - pouring a strip foundation in this case will be a waste of money, since its strength potential is practically not used due to the relatively low weight of the structure.

Mainly for formation pile foundation Concrete pillars are used.

In accordance with the project, the perimeter of the future building with all internal partitions is marked, after which the location of the load-bearing piles is noted. The distance between the piles should not exceed 2 m, while under each intersection of the walls it is necessary to place an additional pillar, since this place creates increased pressure on the foundation;

A well with a diameter of at least 25 cm is dug under each pile, the depth of which must be at least 1.5 meters. Half of the well is filled with coarse sand, which must be filled with water and compacted while filling the well;
After backfilling, an asbestos-cement pipe of the appropriate diameter is immersed in the well, into which a reinforcing frame made of reinforcement is inserted and concrete solution is poured.. It is important to arrange the pipes so that the top edges of all piles are at the same level;

After the piles are completely dry, a metal or wooden grillage is installed on them, which will connect all the pillars into one and serve as the basis for the future structure;

Frame

The basis of the building is a wooden frame made of timber, which must be well dried and impregnated with a waterproofing compound.

The material for the racks is timber with a thickness of 100x100 mm.

Note!
In some cases, it is permissible to use timber with a smaller cross-section, but this is only permissible after a professional calculation of the strength potential of the future structure.

It is mandatory to have load-bearing frame elements at the corners of the building. Intermediate racks are located based on the width of the sheathing material and insulation, but the distance between them should not exceed 1 m. A board or timber is used as a frame at the base, through which the supporting pillars are combined into a single whole. The same strapping is carried out on the top of the load-bearing elements;

After the main and intermediate parts take a vertical position, the structure is strengthened by means of jumpers between the pillars, which also act as sheathing. Then the roof is assembled onto the frame - most often a truss structure is used;

External skin

Use DSP or OSB sheets as the material for the exterior, as they belong to the category of particularly durable and moisture-resistant materials. Sheathing made from these materials will last you as long as possible.

They are screwed to the frame using self-tapping screws, and the joints must be sealed using polyurethane foam or other suitable sealants.

Note!
The use of materials such as plywood and similar materials based on natural wood is also acceptable, but in this case care must be taken to protect the coating from moisture.

Insulation of walls and roof

To create the proper level of thermal insulation, it is necessary to carefully insulate the space between the outer and internal lining. The materials most often used as insulation are mineral wool, synthetic boards (polyurethane foam, expanded polystyrene, etc.) and natural-based insulation materials (jute, reed boards, etc.).

Regardless of what type of insulation you use, it is important to securely fix it in the cavity intended for it and prevent the formation of gaps between individual sheets, which will later turn into “cold bridges.”

After the insulation is completely fixed - with inside buildings, it is necessary to install a vapor barrier, which is best used as glassine.

On one side it has a heat-insulating layer, and the other side is covered with metal foil, which also effectively reflects heat. Glassine must be installed with foil inside the room.

If possible inner part the premises are sheathed with environmentally friendly products - wooden paneling, FBA spruce plywood, etc., since when heated, some synthetic materials can emit toxic fumes.

Internal lining plastic lining is considered acceptable, but it is up to you to decide whether to use this type of product. Before you need to install a vapor barrier, as in the previous case.

It is best to make pourable floors in a frame bathhouse, as this is facilitated by the raised structure. Ordinary wooden floors quickly degrade under constant exposure to moisture.

Bottom line

Inexpensive frame baths will become ideal solution for a small family budget. In addition to the described project, you can also use inexpensive metal bathhouse stoves for the interior, which will allow you to minimize the cost of equipping the functionality of the bathhouse. You can familiarize yourself with the information presented in more detail through the video in this article.

Having your own bathhouse in the courtyard of a private house is the dream of many owners of suburban areas. Everyone knows that a bathhouse serves as a place not only for regular washing, but also for wellness treatments - healing steam cleanses pores, improves blood circulation and gives vitality. In addition, there is a tradition that this particular building often turns into a kind of “club”, where you can have a great time with friends or loved ones.

Therefore, owners planning to create such a useful “complex” inevitably face the question - what is the best material to build a bathhouse from, so that it can be used at any time of the year and without extra costs create and maintain an optimal microclimate. The choice of material directly influences the creation of a healthy, relaxing sauna atmosphere.

In addition, the correctly selected material is the key to the durability of this structure. It is imperative to take into account that the internal surfaces of the walls will be constantly exposed to moist hot air and temperature changes.

The modern market offers a wide variety of different building materials suitable for the construction of walls of houses, utility, utility and other specific buildings. However, it is worth taking a closer look and figuring out which one is ideal for a bathhouse.

Building your own bathhouse on the site of a country house is quite a serious and troublesome matter, so you need to approach this issue with full responsibility. In this article we will try to highlight the main points of construction, and in general, talk about how to build a bathhouse with your own hands on your own site, making the most efficient use of your capabilities.

Self-construction of a bathhouse, from start to finish

Any construction begins with the preparation of design and permitting documentation. With the construction of a bathhouse, the issue is resolved a little easier, since it is a non-residential auxiliary premises.

According to Article 51. “Issue of construction permits”, Town Planning Code of the Russian Federation dated December 29, 2004 No. 190-F3, a separate permit for the construction of auxiliary buildings is not required. However, after constructing a bathhouse, you must contact the BTI to register the new building on the general plan of your site.

The construction project of any structure is, first of all, necessary for the owner himself to:

objective budgeting;
development planning;
competent construction of the building;
laying all necessary communications.

In addition, for an understanding person, the project contains ready-made instructions that will tell you how to properly build a bathhouse with your own hands. Therefore, this point is mandatory for the construction of objects of any complexity, including baths.

Start of construction

Once the project has been selected, the time frame and budget for the development have been set, and the necessary materials have been purchased, construction work can begin.

The first stage, as a rule, is planning work on the ground and digging a pit, and it is recommended to comply with certain conditions:

When planning the territory, it is necessary to remove the fertile layer of soil and store it separately until the work is completed, and then return it to its place.
When renting earth-moving equipment, in parallel with the pit, it would be advisable to immediately dig trenches to connect communications to the bathhouse (water supply, sewerage, electric cable).
During construction, install drainage ditches to remove rainwater from the pit.
Install fences at the work site and provide walkways and paths for the safe passage of people.

Advice! Start execution earthworks, it is best to start in the second half of spring, when the snow melts, the ground dries out and warm, clear weather sets in, and try to finish before the period of prolonged rains, snowfalls and autumn frosts begins.

Choosing a foundation

For the construction of a bathhouse, there are several types of foundations. All of them are made on the basis of reinforced concrete.

Which one to choose depends on the characteristics of your site.

Shallow strip foundation, the most common option. Suitable for sandy, stable soils with low burial levels groundwater. The work on making a strip foundation consists of digging a trench about 400 mm deep, installing formwork, filling the bottom of the trench with a layer of sand, then a layer of gravel, installing reinforcement lining, and pouring all this with concrete to the top level of the formwork.

Columnar foundation, are reinforced concrete pillars installed at the corners of the building and at the junction of internal and external walls. Instead of reinforced concrete, brick or rubble stone bound with cement mortar can be used. Used on slightly heaving soils. The depth of the pillars, as a rule, can reach one and a half meters. The work consists of digging holes, installing formwork, filling with crushed stone, installing reinforcement, and pouring concrete into the pillars. As an option for a columnar foundation, bored piles can also be considered.

Screw piles, another type of columnar foundation, are used in the case of weak peat or fluid clay soils. The depth of such piles can reach several meters until its base reaches solid layers of soil. Screw pile It is a thick-walled steel pipe with metal blades at the base, which is screwed into the ground manually or using mechanisms. After deepening, the pile is cut to the required height and filled with concrete.

Monolithic concrete pad, is used in the case of difficult hydrological soil conditions with a high level of groundwater. It is a monolithic reinforced concrete slab, which is poured on site over the entire area of the pit.

Advice! The distance between the load-bearing supports of a columnar foundation should be no more than 2 meters. If there is a greater distance between the corners of the building and the intersection of the walls, it is necessary to install additional intermediate support.

External and internal walls

Before you build a bathhouse with your own hands, you need to decide on the material of the walls. Brick and natural wood are most often used for these purposes.

In addition, sometimes the bathhouse is built according to the principle frame-panel construction, where a prefabricated structure made of wooden beam, and the cladding is made of composite materials based on wood chips with expanded polystyrene filler. Also, in some cases, the walls of the bathhouse are built from materials based on lightweight concrete, such as foam concrete or wood concrete.

For those who are wondering how to build a cheap sauna with their own hands, the most advisable would be to follow interior walls and piers, made of the same material as the external ones. The difference is mainly only in the thickness of the walls.

Each of the materials has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Brick is characterized by easy accessibility, fire safety, durability, resistance to high humidity and the effects of rodents, pests, and molds. Constructing a bathhouse from it does not require any special skills and can be done with your own hands. Disadvantages include low thermal insulation capacity, high weight, relatively high cost of material and construction costs.

Natural wood, environmentally friendly, due to its porous structure, has good thermal insulation and breathability, has a small specific gravity. In our latitudes it is an accessible and relatively inexpensive building material; the construction of walls takes little time. However, a long time is required for the shrinkage and shrinkage of a log house; practical skills are required for construction; the tree has an increased fire hazard, does not withstand the effects of water, and is not resistant to mold, rodents and various pests.
The advantages of frame-panel construction lie in the simplicity and high speed of construction of such objects, their mobility and versatility. If necessary, the bathhouse can be converted into a barn, living space, or even moved to another location. In general, this one is relatively new way, V Lately began to gain popularity, and you can learn more about it from materials on how to build panel bath with your own hands.
Structures made of lightweight concrete or wood concrete, which replaced foam concrete, are structures made of blocks made from a mixture of chopped wood fiber materials with cement mortar. This relatively new material combines the properties natural wood and monolithic brick. It is characterized by high strength, durability, fire resistance, low specific gravity, good thermal insulation and breathability, and resistance to moisture, rodents and mold. However, it is better to protect it from direct contact with water.

Based on the characteristics given, everyone can make the best decision for themselves on what to build a bathhouse from.

Sauna stove

As you know, one of the most important elements of any bathhouse is its stove. From ancient times to the present day, the most widely used stove is a brick stove, which is heated with wood or coal.

The firebox of such a furnace, made of refractory brick, has thick-walled metal grates in its lower part, through which, from the blower compartment, air is supplied to the furnace, ensuring stable combustion of the fuel and speed dial temperature.

It has some features that are not inherent in a regular home stove.

The stove is usually equipped in such a way that it simultaneously heats the steam room, the washing compartment, and the rest room, which is often combined with a dressing room.
From the outside washing department a heat exchanger enters the furnace, into which is supplied from below cold water, heating up, is directed upwards and enters the container for hot water. Thus, constantly circulating, it heats up to a high temperature.
On the side of the steam room, on the stove there is a compartment for stones. During the process of heating the stove, the stones become heated, and during bathing procedures, after applying small portions of water to them, they release heat in the form of superheated water vapor into the steam room, which is the whole steaming process. The more stones there are on the stove, the longer the sauna can retain heat.

B with good insulation, it makes sense to use electric heaters, the price of which will be lower than the cost of construction and operation wood stove. In them, the stones are heated by the heat of powerful electric heaters.

The advantages of such stoves are ease of installation and operation, fairly quick heating of the room, no need to prepare firewood or periodically add fuel. Also, they are lightweight and compact in size.

Among the negative qualities of such stoves, it should be noted their high electricity consumption, and in some cases, their operation requires a three-phase power supply, which is not available in every country house.

Note! requires the construction of a separate foundation for it, in no way connected with the load-bearing foundation of the bathhouse. For electric ovens, its installation is not required.

Engineering communications equipment

In order for the bathhouse to serve as a full-fledged place of relaxation and satisfy all the needs of sanitary and hygienic procedures, it must be equipped with all the necessary communications.

The water supply can be supplied using an ordinary metal-plastic pipe, laying it underground in a protective shell with thermal insulation.

The sewerage system also needs to be equipped with the underground installation of a plastic drain pipe for external use, connecting it to the general drain of the house, and directing the drainage from the bathhouse to the septic tank.

Electricity can be supplied using both underground and overhead cable power lines. For this purpose, you need to use a special cable of a suitable cross-section, connecting it after installation to the distribution board of your home.

Conclusion

Many owners of suburban areas are concerned with the question: how to quickly build a bathhouse with your own hands? This article, as well as other materials on similar topics, is aimed at helping readers get an answer to their question. If this theoretical material is not enough, you can watch the video in this article.

When designing baths, you should take into account many factors - from location to area. Financial opportunities also play a significant role; if the bathhouse is planned primarily as a place for family recreation, then it is not necessary to build a palace.

For full functioning, 2-3 rooms are enough - a dressing room, a steam room and a washing room. The last two rooms are sometimes combined into one to save space.

Layout of a small bathhouse

In an effort to reduce the space occupied by a bathhouse, you should not be too zealous - there are certain standards. So, two people should fit freely in the steam room, taking into account the fact that they use brooms. If it is very crowded, then you will hardly be able to enjoy going to the bathhouse.

Features of the layout of a bathhouse with a small area

Small log sauna

The layout of a small bathhouse begins with the choice of material for its construction - it can be a log, timber, brick or foam blocks. Wooden structure the most preferable, since it allows you to breathe easily and freely, and naturally maintains a balance between humidity and high air temperature.

What you should especially pay attention to:

Foundation - the weight of the structure does not require the construction of a powerful foundation, the best option– strip or support-pile foundation. There will be no need to carry out significant excavation work for them;
The convenient arrangement of the rooms inside will facilitate both the process of visiting the bathhouse and the preparation for it;
It is advisable to install the stove in the dressing room so that it can be lit without interfering with others going into the steam room or washing room. The firebox must be protected from the possibility of accidental fire;
An important point is ventilation. It is carried out through windows and doors. It is better to give preference to wooden window structures - this is an environmentally friendly material that emits a pleasant aroma. In addition, it is a source of natural air exchange;
Small baths are built according to the same rules as their large-scale counterparts - the shelves are located along a blank wall, door threshold high and the box is low. This is important so that less steam comes out when opening;
There should be no locks, and all doors in the bathhouse open outward.

The useful area of the bathhouse cannot be less than 10 square meters. meters, otherwise it will be impossible to steam in it and wash comfortably.

Convenient bath layout for two people

Bathhouse project of 3 rooms

It is not always possible to build a spacious bathhouse and you have to be content with modest dimensions. But even if it is not possible for two people to be in the steam room at the same time, then the presence of a separate washing room will allow the structure to be used for its intended purpose.

Proper design of the interior space makes it functional:

Dressing room - area will be 2.7 square meters. meters. It can be used both as a locker room and as a rest room. But its main purpose is to prevent the penetration of cold air;
The plan of a small bathhouse necessarily includes a washing area - an area of 1.7 square meters. meters. There are two options - install a shower stall or equip a simple shower. The second is to place stools and basins, and pour water into them from a tank located behind the stove. With such a volume, you can fit everything you need in it. It will be heated by a stove chimney;
And the most important room is the steam room. Its area is 1.14 square meters. meters. The heater is placed in the corner, so it will give off some of the heat to the washing area. It will not be possible to place a lounger, so you will have to steam on a stool or bench.

Note! If a residential building does not have a bath or shower, then a small bathhouse is an excellent solution. She will combine business with pleasure.

Project of a small bathhouse of two rooms

Small frame bathhouse made of timber

If you don’t want to huddle in tiny rooms, then by combining a steam room and a washing room, you can get good result. The external size of the bathhouse can be 3.6 * 2 meters - this is quite enough.

How to build a small bathhouse with your own hands on a plot of land, this is only possible if you have a carefully thought-out project:

Dressing room with a total area of 2.4 sq. meters - here you can already turn around. The dimensions allow you to place a tiny table where you can enjoy drinking tea. The role of the locker room remains;
The steam room and washing room are combined to create a room of 3 square meters. meters. The shower will have to be sacrificed, but now there will be a full-fledged sun lounger and a bench for washing. Basins with water are placed on it. Excess moisture from the shower is not needed, it will make the air heavier and make breathing difficult.

To ensure that the benefits of bathing procedures in this project are not reduced, the following instructions must be followed:

Install a more powerful stove that can heat two rooms at once;
Do not spray water around the steam room - this will increase the humidity;
Bathing procedures begin in the steam room, and only then begin washing.

Photo of a small bathhouse on the lake shore

In both layout options, the door should open outward, and the building itself should be installed no less than 5-10 meters from the permanent house. This mandatory requirements fire safety. Ceilings in the bathhouse should not be made more than 2.2 meters, and door frame more than 1.5 meters. Otherwise, it will not retain heat.

The stove can be any - electric, wood or gas. But the latter is not very desirable. Electric is easy to install and makes it easier to control the temperature level.

But the best one is wood-burning. It creates a unique spirit and aroma of the bathhouse.

The price of a wood stove is not that high

A bathhouse is the dream of almost every owner of a suburban area. But the size of the plot does not always allow for the construction of a large and spacious structure, and then you have to be content with the small. But this does not make the bathhouse any less functional.

With the right approach to planning, it turns out useful and convenient. The video in this article will tell you in more detail about small bathhouses and their advantages.

Small bathhouse: how to build it yourself, layout, video instructions, plan, photo and price

How to build a 3x3 sauna with your own hands

The primary task facing every owner of a country plot is the construction of a small bathhouse located not far from country house. Our article will talk about how to build a 3x3 sauna with your own hands, which would fit perfectly into the space of a small household plot.

The starting material used for the construction of such a structure is most often traditional wood beams. For those wishing to deviate from established traditions, such common building materials as brick, silicate and foam blocks or natural (artificial) stone can be offered.

Structural features

The bathhouse, measuring 3x3 m, is a small one-story building that can accommodate 2-3 people at a time. Its usable area usually does not exceed 8‒8.5 m² and is distributed as follows:

Note that the dressing room in such a bathhouse is also used as a relaxation room. Despite the limited size of the room, it is usually possible to fit a small table and 2-3 benches. The table can be made folding, which allows you to free up as much space in the dressing room as possible while lighting the stove and cleaning the room.

When choosing the design of a bathhouse building, one should not exclude from consideration the option of a small-sized structure that is simply attached to the main residential building.

What to build a bathhouse from?

The simplest and cheapest way to make a wooden bath from timber is to use a standard frame structure, installed on a lightweight strip foundation.

A bathhouse made from traditional “round timber” also looks good, which is well-sanded logs selected according to the appropriate diameter. Forest moss is usually used as insulation in these structures, laid between the individual crowns.

In addition to timber and round timber, profiled or laminated timber can be used to construct a bathhouse. In any case, the material you choose must be well dried (that is, subjected to a shrinkage procedure in advance). Thanks to this, you will be able to start using the sauna building immediately after finishing it.

Note! When constructing a structure made of brick or stone strip foundation for a bathhouse it must be designed for heavy loads.

Work order

The construction of a bathhouse from the material you have chosen is usually carried out in the following order:

Foundation preparation

Basically, the type of foundation is not a whim of the customer, but is selected based on many factors. Often, for the construction of a bathhouse, a pile or columnar foundation is made. In some cases, it may be necessary to make a slab foundation. We will consider only one type of foundation, which is more universal and applicable in most cases.

The strip foundation for a log house made of three-meter timber is made shallow, which is also acceptable when using rounded logs. The procedure for its preparation is as follows:

First, a square of appropriate dimensions is marked, after which trenches 10–15 cm wide are dug to a depth exceeding the soil freezing mark.
The bottom of the dug trench is covered with a layer of sand about 15 cm thick, which is then spilled with water and thoroughly compacted. After compaction is completed, the bottom of the trench is filled with crushed stone, after which it will be possible to proceed to the preparation of formwork, assembled from ordinary unedged boards.
Imported or self-made formwork is poured into the finished formwork concrete mixture, which should include moisture-resistant cement.
Foundation waterproofing is carried out using a suitable roll material(roofing felt, for example).

Walling

When assembling a box from 100×100 beams for the lower crowns, it is advisable to use larch or aspen blanks with a larger cross-section (150×150 cm, for example). The base frame is attached to the foundation using special plates, the counterpart of which is fixed to the lower beam of the frame.

The construction of the foundation is carried out using one of the well-known methods, which involves the use of the method of joining beams (logs). Given the relative lightness of three-meter beams, the assembly of the frame is most often done manually and without assistants.

To reliably connect the crowns to each other (without gaps), pre-prepared wooden dowels and a special jute seal.

Manufacturing of roof, ceiling and floor

When arranging a roof for a 3x3 meter bathhouse, preference is usually given to one of the simplest structures: single-pitch or gable. The optimal angle of inclination of the roof is selected taking into account the brand of material used as roofing(inexpensive roofing felt or slate are most often used for these purposes). You can see a sample of roofing arrangement in the photo located at the end of the article.

At the next stage of work, the ceiling is installed, made in the form of flooring, laid directly on the walls of the building. The floor covering is fixed on special logs placed directly on the foundation.

Interior decoration of the building

Before finishing the bathhouse, the walls and ceiling of the building are reliably insulated; in this case, special attention is paid to the steam room. To finish it, it is advisable to use natural types of insulation material (mineral wool, for example) and then apply a layer of foil to it. Note that the foil in this case is used as a reflector capable of retaining heat inside the steam room.

After installation of the insulation and foil is completed, the walls and ceiling of the room are sheathed with clapboard made from special types of wood (linden or aspen).

As for the dressing room, it is not at all necessary to use expensive materials to decorate it; the walls of this room can simply be impregnated with special waterproof varnishes that perfectly highlight the texture of the wood.

How to build a 3x3 sauna with your own hands - building a small sauna

Learn how to build a 3x3 sauna with your own hands. The article describes how and from what materials to build such a small bathhouse.

Do-it-yourself small sauna

Small bathhouse with your own hands - great option when the area near the house or in the yard of the dacha is limited. In addition, with this solution you can significantly save your budget, but as a result you will get a full-fledged vacation spot, which will not only relieve stress after a hard day, but improve your health and have a pleasant time with family and friends.

Examples of projects

Ideally, the bathhouse includes 4 rooms in its design:

You can expand the functionality of some rooms by combining them with each other. At the same time, the comfort of your stay is not lost. The overall size of the building will largely depend on how many people will be inside at the same time.

1.20 mx2.50 m. Very compact solution. In this case, the bathhouse consists of only two rooms: a steam room and a dressing room. The dimensions of the first are 1.20 m×1.50 m, the second - 1 m×1.20 m. There is no rest room, but in the dressing room you can easily change clothes. The washing room can be combined with a steam room. This size will be enough for one person.
2.50 m×2.50 m. In terms of the number of rooms - the same as the first option. The size of the steam room is 2.50 m×1.50 m, the waiting room is 1 m×2.50 m. At the same time, it will be possible to organize extra bed for storing firewood. In such conditions, two people can comfortably fit.
3 m×3 m. This option can be planned in different ways. If you want the steam room to accommodate three people, then it can be made 3 m x 1.50 m in size; the washing room can be made separate by placing a shower stall there. The size of this room will be 1 m × 1.50 m. There is also a dressing room of 2 m × 1.5 m. You can combine a washing room and a steam room, then there will be space that can be used as a relaxation room, which will also serve as a dressing room.
4 m×3 m. In this case, you can separate 4 m2 for the steam room (for example, 2 m × 2 m). The washing room will occupy 1 m × 1.50 m, leaving 2 m × 3 m for the rest room. In such conditions, four people can comfortably fit. They will be able to be in the steam room at the same time, and also enjoy communication in the waiting room.
4 m×4 m. In such an area you can already turn around well. The steam room can be left measuring 2 m × 2 m. A separate dressing room can be made measuring 2 m × 1.50 m. The rest room in this case is 4 m × 2 m (one side will be 2.50 m). The washing room can be combined with a rest room; for this, an electric boiler and a shower stall are installed. They can be placed in one of the corners of the room, which does not take up much space.

These are indicative examples. You can easily vary the size of the premises within accessible limits. You may want to reduce the steam room because... there is no need for 4 people to be there at the same time. At the same time, it will be possible to expand the space of the rest room.

Choosing material

Various materials can be used to build walls. Much will depend on the project you choose, as well as the amount of money planned. For example, you can use ordinary brick. You can read how to build a brick sauna here. The following points will be positive:

availability;
ease of delivery;
relative ease of construction;
long service life (with proper care– up to 150 years);
ease of maintenance;
possibility of combination with the main structure;
when using new brick there is no need for cladding;
freedom to choose the form of construction.

The negative aspects include:

high cost of material;
the need for good ventilation, because brick has poor vapor conductivity;
lighting such a bathhouse takes more time than building made of wood;
high costs for interior decoration.

Along with brick, foam block is often used. This is a more progressive material; it has properties characteristic only of it:

light weight with large size;
high laying speed;
ease of adjustment of block shapes;
good thermal insulation;
relatively low price;
excellent sound insulation;
environmental friendliness;
If you follow the recommendations, there will be little glue consumption.

There is also a fly in the ointment:

uneven pores can be a problem when hanging furniture;
Shrinkage may occur over several months;
poor bending resistance.

The most favorite manufacturing method is a rounded log. A lot can be said about its advantages, here are just a few:

high environmental friendliness;
pleasant appearance;
low heat capacity;
no need for interior and exterior finishing;
pleasant internal atmosphere.

The negative side is:

unprofitable to use in small buildings;
some complexity of construction;
high cost of material;
long shrinkage time.

One of the cheapest and fastest options is the construction of a frame structure. Minimal construction skills will be required for this method. The advantages are:

no need for a massive foundation;
availability of materials;
relatively low cost compared to other options;
ease of care;
very fast heating of the steam room with good insulation;
ease of laying communications;
seismic resistance;
no shrinkage.

One of the disadvantages is the need to organize good sound insulation. High level boominess – transmission of various vibrations, which can cause inconvenience. It is also important to ensure good ventilation so that moisture does not accumulate inside, which will lead to the development of fungus and mold.

Strip foundation

In the case where a really small bathhouse is planned, there is no point in sinking the foundation to the level of soil freezing. This will only increase the overall cost of the project. With proper manufacturing and waterproofing, you won’t have to worry about the walls being cold. This type of foundation will be relevant for any of the listed building options.

The first thing that needs to be done is to clearly define the territory that will be allocated for construction.
Next, debris is removed. In addition, you will need to remove upper layer soil with grass to make it easier for you to carry out further tasks.
Using pegs, the boundaries of the future building are marked.
Special holders are made to make it easier to navigate with excavation. To do this, two pieces of board 50x50 cm (or whatever is at hand) are sharpened on one side and connected using a transverse crossbar from a board 10 cm wide, its length should be about 70 cm. You will need 8 such structures. They are installed two at each corner of the house. Between them two fishing lines are stretched to the width of the future foundation. Be sure to check that all angles correspond to 90°. This way you get clearly defined lines that will be difficult to move even if you hit them.

At the stage of laying the foundation, provision is made for the supply of necessary communications. This could be a water supply and sewer drain for washing water.

Pile foundation

There are several ways to build a foundation. Piles can be bored or driven. In the first case, a well is drilled, formwork is made, reinforcement rods are lowered and the entire space is filled with concrete. In the second option, ready-made concrete, wooden or metal posts with a pointed end are driven in immediately. The most suitable options for a small bath will be screw ones. They consist of a metal base in the form of a pipe and blades that help immerse the supports into the ground. You can purchase them or make them yourself. If you chose the second option, then you need to act like this:

The first step is to find out to what depth the soil freezes. To do this, you can contact the appropriate service.
Pipe blanks with a diameter of 110 mm are purchased. The thickness of its wall should be more than 3 mm. The total length should be such that it can be sunk below the freezing level by 50 cm and at the same time so that it is 30-40 cm above the ground surface. Additionally, you can buy blanks for screws. It is also necessary to make a square cap on the pile. It should be 25x25 cm in size and 5-6 mm thick.

In each of the described options, separate supporting elements for the stove should also be provided, especially if you plan to use a heater. This is very important, because its weight can be large, which can lead to damage to the floor and joists.

Construction of brick walls

For a bathhouse, it is better to use red brick, which has undergone heat treatment and has a lower thermal capacity. To calculate the quantity required material, you need to calculate the area of each wall. To do this, the width is multiplied by the length. Then you need to divide this number by the area of one brick. The area of the masonry joints can be neglected, because you will still need to make a reserve in case of battle or marriage.

The wall can be erected using several methods:

in two bricks with external insulation.
with air gaps, they are about 6 cm;
with a layer of insulation between two rows of bricks.

Work begins with the construction of corners. This is an important process because... It is they who will subsequently ensure the correctness of the entire structure. To maintain the vertical level of future walls, two are dug into the corners. metal profiles 5x5 cm and a length equal to the height of the future walls. They are leveled and secured with jibs. A fishing line is stretched between them to the height of one row. After it is laid, the line is rearranged to the height of the next one. The thickness of the seam should be about 20-25 mm. It should be applied at a distance of no more than a meter so that it does not have time to dry. Additionally, the plane is checked using a bubble level. If the second and third types of masonry are chosen, then it is necessary to ensure a bandage between the two walls. This is achieved by laying two bricks transversely opposite each other at certain intervals. Also, each row should be offset by half a brick to ensure the overall interweaving of the entire plane.

A lintel must be installed over windows or doorways. Usually it is reinforced concrete. You can purchase it ready-made or pour it directly on site. It should extend beyond the openings by at least 25 cm. Supports are installed and a wooden board is mounted on them. Two rows of bricks are laid out on edge. Between them there are reinforcement rods, which should also extend 25 cm beyond the opening, and it is better to bend them to intertwine them with the existing masonry. Concrete is poured inside. After complete hardening (usually 10-12 days), the lower supports can be dismantled and the logs removed.

Walls made of foam blocks

The general installation principle will be the same as in the previous case. You should also start with the corners, which must be accurately and clearly set.

In the same way, guides are made from profiled pipes. But there are some nuances:

In order to achieve the best adhesion, the base row is laid on cement mortar. It is better to make the ratio with sand 1:3. It is very important to maintain a horizontal plane so that all other rows also lie correctly.
All other rows are fixed with special glue.
The thickness of the adhesive layer should not exceed 5 mm. Only in this case will it be possible to achieve ideal thermal insulation.
Every 3 rows, a metal mesh is placed in the seam, which serves to provide additional rigidity.
Foam blocks are placed on the edge.
Lintels over doors and windows are made in the same way as in the case of brickwork.

Log walls

This is exactly the option that comes to mind when it comes to a bathhouse. To make it, you will need to stock up on rounded or profiled logs. It is better to make external walls from this material. Because The structure is small, it is good if the partitions are framed.

After the construction of the walls is completed, primary caulking is performed. During which the hanging insulation is simply driven into the joints. Complete shrinkage of the building can last more than 1.5 years.

Frame walls

After the foundation is erected, an additional foundation is made for such a structure. It is carried out according to the example of the grillage discussed above. For the corner posts we will need exactly the same timber as for the base. In addition, you will need to stock up on edged boards with a length equal to the height of the future walls, a width equal to the width of the grillage and a thickness of 5-10 cm.

At the base, it is imperative to check the diagonals so that they are the same. It is attached to the concrete foundation using anchor bolts. It is advisable to recess the head. For this purpose, a countersunk groove is made in advance. Waterproofing made of bicrost or roofing felt is laid under the grillage on a concrete foundation.

Erection of the roof

For small buildings the ideal solution would be pitched roof. It is necessary to plan its production at the design stage. It is very important to be able to raise one wall higher than the other. When this is done, in the case of a wall made of brick and foam block, waterproofing made of bicrost or roofing material is laid on the upper end. Additional beams are mounted on it, which will serve as a Mauerlat. They are attached to the base using anchor bolts or walled-in studs. Beams are laid on top onto which the sheathing will be placed. They can be secured to the Mauerlat using metal corners.

In another option, the walls are made the same. They are placed on the Mauerlat ceiling beams. Vertical boards are installed on one of the sides, which will form a pediment; rafter legs on another wall. At the point where they adjoin the Mauerlat, they are cut to the required angle. They are secured with metal corners. To make it easier to maintain the roof in one plane, the two outermost elements are installed first. A string is stretched between them, which will serve as a level.

The ceiling must be insulated. A vapor barrier is attached to the top of the ceiling crossbars. Thick foil can play this role. Insulation in the form of mineral wool. Additionally it closes plastic film. The inside is hemmed using wooden lining or polished edged boards.

Finish line

An integral part of every sauna is the stove. You can make it yourself from sheet material or metal pipe large diameter. In another version, it is laid out of brick, but in this case it can take up a large space. For small spaces, it is better to use electric options that are purchased ready-made.

A shelf is installed inside the steam room. It is better not to use coniferous wood for it, because... When heated, it may release resin, causing burns. Good material for it would be aspen, larch, linden or oak. If the space is small, a width of 40 cm will be sufficient; it is more convenient when there is a footrest. The fastening material must be flush so as not to burn the skin (it must also be made of stainless material). It is better if the entire structure is assembled on dowels.

For wiring, you must use a double braided cable. It is better if it is non-flammable (usually the marking has the prefix “ng”). Be sure to lay the conductor in the corrugation. There are no switches installed in the steam room itself. The lamps used are waterproof with an IP68 index.

Make sure there is good ventilation. To do this, you can install an adjustable supply valve, as well as anemostats with output to the gable through the roof. This will be enough to ensure that all moisture is removed after taking a steam bath.

As you can see, there are no restrictions on what you can build a small bathhouse from. Choose the option that suits you best.

Small sauna with your own hands - how to build

This article tells you how to build a small sauna. Find out more about preferred materials, sizes and other options.

What and how to build a simple bathhouse in the country?

Washing in a country bathhouse is a pleasure available to everyone. Its construction does not require large financial investments. In a minimal plan, such a structure is erected in a few days.

In this article we will look at the topic of how to build the simplest bathhouse in your country house quickly and inexpensively.

Let's start by studying ready-made options, we will discuss the designs of walls, floors, stoves and sewers that are popular among craftsmen.

Design Features

The main conditions for the comfort of any bath are:

Walls, floor and ceiling well protected from heat loss.
Reliable insulation of structures from water and steam.
Compact, quick heating oven.
Effective sewerage and ventilation.

Examples of country baths

In photo No. 1 we see a simple bathhouse, reminiscent of Diogenes’ barrel. You can only take a steam bath in it. You won't be able to wash yourself here because there is no sewage system in the building. However, if desired, it is not difficult to do. To do this, you need to install a standard shower tray in the corner of the bath and remove drain pipe to the septic tank.

An important advantage of this design is its low weight, allowing it to be placed on a plank terrace.

The construction of the simplest bathhouse from the container category is shown in photo No. 2.

It consists of one steam room. For washing, the owner needs to attach a canopy with summer shower or supplement the room with sewerage, and the stove with a tank for heating water.

Improvising on the theme of a barrel-shaped bath, let's turn our attention to cellular polycarbonate. It can be quickly and easily assembled original design. In order for it to retain heat well, you will need two large sheets of this material and a frame made of metal or wooden blocks. A mineral wool insulation 10 cm thick is laid between them.

The ends of the building can be made from boards, stuffed onto an insulated wooden frame. Place such a bathhouse anywhere: at your dacha, on a polar ice floe or on the top of Everest and you will always be comfortable in its steam room (photo No. 5).

A small Russian bathhouse, made from scraps of timber, can be installed on oak posts. We see an example of such a structure in photograph No. 6.

Larger structures require their own foundation. There are three possible options here:

Rubble concrete tape.
Brick columns.
Piles made of asbestos cement pipes.

Do not forget that the type of foundation affects the choice of material and wall design. Pile and columnar foundations are used for installation wooden frame, as well as for baths made of timber or logs (photos No. 7 and No. 8).

The “tape” of rubble concrete is suitable for any walls (made of gas silicate blocks, logs and frames).

A cheap, reliable and simple version of a bathhouse is obtained using a technology called “clay mortar”. For such a structure you will need little: a truck of firewood, a cart of straw and a dump truck of clay (photo No. 10).

The best shape for a wood burning structure is round. It eliminates the need to reinforce masonry corners and looks aesthetically pleasing and original.

Borrowing from birds the technology of building nests from branches and clay, you can build such a simple and warm bath(photo no. 11).

Recommendations for choosing finishing, insulation, sewerage installation, flooring, roofing and stove

For the exterior finishing of a frame bath, we can recommend the following materials:

Wooden blockhouse.
Metal tiles or corrugated sheets.
Plastic siding.
Cement particle board (CSB).
OSB board.
Flat slate.

It is best to use ecowool as insulation. It does not accumulate moisture, does not rot and does not burn. If ecowool is not available in your region, then you can buy regular mineral insulation in the form of a semi-rigid slab. It is easily and simply placed in the spaces between the frame posts.

To protect mineral wool from water vapor and reduce heat loss, the walls are lined with sheets of foil polyethylene. After this, a frame of slats is attached to them and trimmed with wood: alder, linden or pine clapboard (photo No. 13).

We do not recommend installing OSB board indoors. This material releases toxic gases when exposed to high temperatures.

Options for steam and thermal insulation of walls of a frame structure, as well as a bathhouse built from blocks or logs, are presented in Figure No. 1.

Building a simple bathhouse with your own hands includes sewerage. It can be made from standard plastic pipes discharged into a cesspool or drainage well.

The water intake funnel is placed in the center or in the corner of the room, and the floor is made in the form of expanded clay concrete screed with a slope towards the drain. Before concreting, you need to compact the soil and cover it with several layers of waterproofing. Wooden flooring is an excellent option, but in a bathhouse it quickly rots and requires replacement. Instead, we recommend making gratings from wooden slats and put them on concrete screed. After washing, they can be removed, taken outside and dried.

Constructive bath ceiling standard First, a vapor barrier film is “attached” to the rafters and counter-battens (3x4 cm) are stuffed. A clapboard cladding is attached to them. The gaps between the rafters are filled with insulation and covered with under-roofing film. It protects it from weathering and atmospheric moisture (Fig. No. 2).

A counter-lattice is placed on the film, creating a ventilated gap between the roof and the insulation. The work on the installation of the ceiling and roof is completed by installing the main sheathing and laying roofing material(slate or metal tiles).

The main “detail” is any country bathhouse- bake. It should provide rapid heating of the air and maintain a high temperature. A metal stove heats up the fastest.

To accumulate heat and create steam, it must be equipped with a compartment for stones. Options for stoves for simple baths A lot has been created, so we will not dwell on them in detail. Let's just say that the easiest way to make a heat generator is from a large-diameter steel pipe, an old gas cylinder or barrel (photo No. 15). Another easy-to-use material is a steel sheet 3-5 mm thick (photo No. 16).

Knowing the simplest welding techniques, you can assemble such a structure without outside help.

A simple do-it-yourself bathhouse - options and construction features

Options for simple baths made of various materials, photos of examples and their descriptions. Recommendations for building a simple bathhouse at the dacha with your own hands.