Finding a tire shop is not a big problem, especially in cities. But sometimes there is a need for urgent wheel repair directly at the site of a puncture or tire rupture. On the road, for example. On a business trip or trip. Far from any civilization, where there is simply nowhere to look for help. How This do?
In the old days, drivers, taken by surprise, used tried and tested means. They were as follows:
The big drawbacks of the method were its laboriousness and almost inevitable cases of disc crumpling at the edges.
For tubeless tires, such defects are fatal. It will definitely lose its tightness, and will not hold air. To prevent this from happening, the damaged disk will have to be straightened or thrown away. Cash costs for a new disk in such a situation are inevitable.
In a standard tire fitting, the actual same operations are carried out. The only difference is that there they are more thought out, mechanized, more accurate in relation to the disk. As a result, after repair, it exactly retains its previous geometry. But How achieve it himself?
What modern craftsmen offer
If you look on the Internet, you can see many options. homemade mechanized devices for disassembly of the wheel. The vast majority of them, in principle, are oriented in terms of their capabilities to professional equipment. Features concern mainly only some design solutions.
Homemade machines perform the same functions as standard mechanisms in tire shops. In doing so, they:
- simpler in design;
- have manual drive for dismantling;
- reliable in operation;
- small-sized;
- easy to disassemble and easy to store (some models can fit in the trunk of a car);
- allow you to carry out prompt repairs outside the tire shop, directly at the scene of the accident;
- the vast majority of all handicraft devices are designed for wheels cars.
Needless to say, wheel dismantling for the owners of such machines is incomparably more economical than a similar service in a car service.
A few illustrative examples
- Vertical console with bracket on the table.
Device:
- an impromptu table with a vertical stand (top - threaded thread);
- locking washer for fixing the disk with internal thread and bushing-axle;
- movable console with bracket;
- a metal rod with blades that bend the tire bead away from the disk;
- rod fixing bolt.
Construction Models:
Fixed blade
Handicraft design (the main drawback is the lack of a system for pressing the rod, the blade has to be constantly knocked out with a sledgehammer).
Vertical console with bracket
Adjustable paddle
Modern design. Console and paddle bracket purchased from an auto parts store. The disadvantages include a short handle that does not provide effective pressure on the tire.
Vertical console with bracket without table
Auxiliary tool, console and bracket are presented here in the factory. Any plane can be used as a table. The disadvantage is the troublesome dismantling process, which involves the use of many tools at once. In addition, there is no table here - all operations have to be done, figuratively speaking, “on the knee”.
There are many other options as well. There is no point in considering all inventions: they are arranged in approximately the same way.
Let's look at one model. It eliminates all the above drawbacks as much as possible. It is quite simple to make the whole machine yourself, without resorting to the cost of purchased spare parts.
DIY tire changer
Dimensional drawings- the first thing with which any practical activity begins. In this case, consider a very convenient option machine that combines the whole range of tire fitting tasks.
This circuit diagram device and functioning of the disassembly mechanism:
In its natural form (after a fairly simple assembly), the machine will look like this:
How to assemble this machine and from what?
Design elements:
Frame
It is made from rectangular steel profile size 50x25 mm. It must be cut into five pieces, and welded into one stable base. The length of the takeoff of the parallel stops and connecting them profile pipe can be adjusted to the dimensions of the trunk of the car.
Vertical stand
Executed from metal pipe with a diameter of not more than 50 mm (according to the width of the frame components). Fastening to the base can be done in two ways:
Welding into one inseparable whole (non-separable option).
Fixing with a bolt. In this case, a bushing corresponding to the inner diameter of the pipe must be welded to the frame, and a hole must be drilled in the pipe itself and threaded for the bolt. This option makes the design collapsible, less overall and mobile (suitable for use on the road).
Hinged nodes of a vertical rack
Washer-platform (flange) with holes for fastening the disk. It is designed for installation, external inspection of a damaged wheel and its final dismantling after disassembly.
steel corner
With ribs 40-50 mm for attaching a loop under the lever. It is welded to the rack tightly, the loop itself can be screwed through drilled holes threaded (as in the diagram above). But the welding method of connecting parts is more reliable and simple.
Lever arm
Designed to remove the tire rim from the disk.
The diagram shows the loop principle of connecting the lever with the riser . He gives the ability to carry out effective pressure on the tire and tear its edge off the disk.
The dimensions shown on the drawing are indicative. The main thing is that the general proportion is observed.
Element A
Short tubular bracket with hole for extension pipe. Removable extension. It is inserted into the device before starting work and provides more pressing power.
Element B
Emphasis for the tire rim (paw). It is made from the same rectangular profile 50x25 mm as the frame. One end of the stop is attached to the bracket through a loop, the other end is flattened and turned with emery to a rounded shape. This avoids damage to the rubber when pressed with a paw.
Note
When choosing a material for a machine, heavy loads on all structural elements should be taken into account. Soft steel grades (such as St. 45) are unsuitable here.
To avoid metal corrosion, all machine components must be painted over with a stable oil emulsion.
How to dismantle a wheel
Manual the machine works as follows. Sequence of operations:
Visual inspection. The wheel is mounted on a washer pad and checked for surface damage to the tire and disc.
Breakdown:
- the wheel is placed on the support frame under the lever;
- an extension cord is inserted into the lever;
- the paw is directed to the junction of the tire with the disk;
- the lever is pressed.
The operation is sequentially carried out over the entire diameter of the rim. As a result, the entire outer part of the tire is separated from the disk.
Then the same steps are repeated on the back of the wheel.
Complete dismantling is already done on the flange vertical rack with a simple mount. It is better if it has a length sufficient for easy removal of the tire from the disk.
Wheel mounting
What is important to consider at this stage:
Disk Integrity
The geometry of the rim must not be disturbed in any place. This is especially important for tubeless tyres. Small dents on stamped discs can be smoothed out with a hammer. In case of major defects, the disc must be replaced. Damaged alloy wheels due to the fragility of the metal do not straighten and always change.
Tire lubrication
It reduces the friction of rubber on metal during installation. A thin layer of lithol or a soapy solution is applied to the inner edge of the tire. This does not affect the tightness and quality of the wheel.
No gaps between wheel and tire
Any gap can cause air leakage, especially from tubeless rubber. This mounting defect is easily eliminated by tapping the tire rib with a heavy hammer when inflating the wheel on the machine. In extreme cases, you can use special sealing harnesses and gels (they are sold in all automotive stores).
Conclusion
All of the above leads to a simple conclusion: Tire changer easy to do yourself. Moreover, in any version: both stationary and mobile. One day off - no more, will be needed for the purchase of material and the manufacture of equipment. For this you only need skillful hands and desire.
The reward for your labor feat will be time and money. So you save them for sure!
Video
The procedure for changing tires is best done in a specialized workshop. But this possibility is not always available. You should also consider the cost of this service. Therefore, some motorists prefer to do the installation and dismantling of tires on their own. This requires at least the simplest tire changer.
Design features
Tire changer set
At first glance, the procedure is not very difficult. Just needs to be dismantled old tire from disk and install a new one. But already at the stage of removing the tire, you may encounter a problem - too much effort must be applied to dismantle.
You can use the so-called "travel kits" for this. Mounting kit included various shapes and special wedges. Such tools make the replacement procedure somewhat easier, but not always. If the tire has been used for a long time, you will need to apply more physical strength to separate it from the edge of the disc. That is why it is easiest to make a homemade tire changer.
Its design should consist of the following components:
- Frame. Most often, these are two rectangular profile pipes that are parallel to each other. They are connected with a steel corner.
- Vertical riser attached to the frame. It performs several functions - fastening the lever (for dismantling the tire) and a platform for installing rim. Its function can be performed by a welded flange from the pipe.
- The pipe to which the handle is welded. It will act as a lever when removing the tire directly.
Frame manufacturing
Two pipes located parallel to each other are connected using a steel angle or a profile structure of a smaller section. Adjustable feet can be installed as accessories.
After making the frame, follow these steps:
- Weld the pipe to the crossbar. Its diameter can be from 20 to 30 mm. A flange is first welded at a height of 40-60 cm.
- On the vertical part is done fastener in the form of a steel plate. It is necessary to install the lever.
The lever is designed to remove the tire from the rim. It consists of two parts - a lever arm (attached to a horizontal support post) and a foot, with which forces will be applied to the tire.
After separating the tire from the disc, it must be completely dismantled. To do this, it is best to use a long mount, to which the handle is welded. Having installed the disk on the flange, it is fixed with a clamp. Then, with the narrow end of the mount, the edge of the tire is brought out beyond the outer part of the disk. Turning the disk over, runs complete dismantling tires.
At this stage, it is important to pay attention to following points:
- The edge of the rim must not be deformed. This will greatly complicate the subsequent mounting of the tire, especially tubeless.
- To preserve the integrity of the tire being dismantled, you can lubricate the narrow edge with grease. This will reduce the chance of the cord or rubber breaking through.
- When installing a new tire, it is recommended to use a soapy solution.
When installing a tire on a rim you need to carefully monitor the absence of gaps between them. In addition to the tire changer, it is recommended to purchase a special kit, which includes sealing harnesses and pry bars of various sizes.
A punctured wheel in the presence of a spare tire that has not been repaired in time contributes to the desire to do tire fitting with your own hands. But in order to be able to do this, it is necessary to have the appropriate tools, and most importantly, skills. To do tire fitting on the road with your own hands, you need to have 2 mounting blades, as well as a device for tearing off a stuck tire from a disk (many people use a small piece of steel corner with a sledgehammer for this). But it can be done much more conveniently with the help of a jack and a tow rope.
Wheel repair on the road
The repair method described above on the way is only suitable for last resort. For example, if there is no tire shop nearby. However, if you decide to always do your own tire fitting, then you better have a full-fledged tire fitting kit in the garage, which you can do yourself if you wish. Not only will it help you avoid queues at the tire shop in spring and autumn, it will also save you money.
Making a tire fitting kit
In our case, the kit consists of two devices: the actual tire changer and the bead breaking device, combined into one. 
The bottom of the frame of the machine H-shaped 90 × 60 cm is made of steel pipe rectangular section. A two-inch round pipe about one and a half meters high is welded to the jumper 30 cm from the edge at a right angle, the welding point is reinforced with scarves in the form of rectangular triangles 5 mm thick. An old hub is put on the pipe for attaching the wheel and welded to it. The installation height of the hub is selected according to the height of the person so that the wheel lying on it is approximately waist-high. The pipe should rise above the cylinder by at least 30 cm and not interfere with work. A little below the hub, weld a bracket for fastening the bead breaker device, which can be made from a fragment of a steel sheet 4–5 mm thick by drilling a hole for the bolt in it.
The device for beating is clearly visible in the photo. The pipe for the manufacture of this assembly should be taken wider so that a long lever is inserted into it.
The lever for removing and installing tires is made of a steel pipe about one and a half meters long, and the tips for it are made of a steel bar with a diameter of 20 mm. The length of the lever may be different, it all depends on the strength of the hands and the size of the free space in the garage. Lever tips are best done on lathe, but you can also cut it out with a grinder with a sweeping circle, and then grind it with a petal. See photos for tip sizes.
Tire dismantling
Tire mounting
- Lubricate the tire bead, rim edge and arm mounting lug soapy water.
- Slide part of the landing board onto the disc.
- Insert the mounting lug of the lever between the fitted section of the landing board and the disc. It is necessary that the ball of the tip rests against the disk, and the landing board is approximately in the middle of the tip.
- Resting the lever against the pipe above the wheel, pull it towards you. In this case, the tire bead will be put on by the middle of the mounting tip on the disk.
- After the first bead of the tire is put on the disc, grease the upper landing bead with soapy water and do the same with it as with the lower one.
- When the top bead of the tire is put on the disc, you can inflate the wheel.
The smaller the angle at which the tip for flanging is welded to the lever, the easier it is to put the rubber on the disc. But don't overdo it.
If this angle is too small, then the lever will touch the disk during the beading and scratch it, so look for the optimum.
The machine turned out to be very light, so for comfortable work it must be fixed to the floor. If the floor in your garage is wooden, then attach the base to it with self-tapping screws. If the floor is concrete, then make several holes in it, install anchor bolts in them by 8, and fill them with cement mortar.
To make it easier to work, and there was no harm to the disks and rubber, be sure to lubricate the lever tips, the rim, and the tire seat with a thick soapy solution. To do this, do not work with a dirty wheel, always start by cleaning it.
To repair wheels that differ from yours in the number of mounting holes and the distance between them, make adapters with studs. They should be made of metal with a thickness of about a centimeter.
A tire changer is the main equipment for servicing machines, including trucks. Usually it is installed only in specialized workshops, where it is used under the strict guidance of personnel. His most common models are Trommelberg 1850, Trommelberg 1860 + third hand, as well as others.
But it often happens that it is necessary to replace wheels for cars, but there is no opportunity to go to the service and spend your time there to receive the required service. There is a way out of the situation. This is a homemade tire changer that you can assemble and install yourself in the garage. Of course, it will be inferior to Trommelberg models, it is unlikely that it will allow you to balance the anchors, but its functionality will please you. Let's take a step-by-step look at how you can make such a tool for car maintenance.
1 What do you need to assemble a tire changer at home?
A home-made manual tire changer is no worse than the 1850 model, which can also include a third hand, it is not so difficult to assemble at home in practice. For creating quality equipment to you You will need the following types of devices:
- Frame. Usually it is made from standard profiles. Please note that you need to select parts for it based on the type of cars that you are going to repair, because for cargo passenger options it will be different in terms of resistance to loads.
- "Hand" third or lever. This third part will be used directly to remove the tire.
- A vertical riser, on which, in particular, a third hand will be fixed. It can be made in the form of a welded flange.
To create all these parts, it is necessary to initially purchase very high-quality rolled products that can withstand heavy loads, in particular, the weight of truck parts. In order for your work in this direction to be as quick and successful as possible, it is recommended to prepare a drawing for this design in advance and order a rental from it.
1.1 We create equipment with our own hands
So, we already have everything to make a machine for servicing car wheels, including trucks, you just need to assemble it correctly. You need to do this as follows:
- we carry out the base of our machine from profile pipes. The distance between them must be at least 70 cm, otherwise the sample will be unstable and it will not be possible to serve on it, not only trucks, even cars;
- then we fix the flange vertically to the crossbar. We must weld this element without fail, otherwise it simply will not hold with us. Next, we install a clamp on it, to which the “hand” will be attached;
- we mount the hand itself. It must be installed on a metal element without fail, otherwise it simply will not hold.
Calibration of a homemade balancing machine is carried out according to the wheel you have, even if it is from trucks. It usually takes only a few minutes. Immediately after the completion of such work, you can begin to operate the equipment made by yourself.
1.2 Design advantages
A do-it-yourself machine for servicing car wheels, as well as a home-made loom, has a lot of advantages.
Among them:
- low construction cost. Spare parts for tire changers are usually inexpensive, and in some situations they can even be produced from recycled raw materials;
- the ability to carry out work at the first need at home;
- versatility - if desired, it can be adapted to any type of wheels, including elements of trucks. Moreover, it is very important to note that the correct use of such a sample excludes damage to the wheels;
- compactness - you can store this equipment for car maintenance in any place convenient for you;
- ease of assembly - several simple details and well-executed instructions will help you create this technical miracle in just a few hours;
- significant savings in car maintenance. After all, even for cargo models, complex wheel repairs are extremely rarely necessary. It is enough to use a similar technique, and there will be no problems with them.
If we talk about the disadvantages of this design, then they include the impossibility of balancing the wheels, as well as the processing of elements of trucks, as in the model 1850. Repair of cardan shafts, balancing anchors is also not available here. For this procedure, you really need to go to specialized workshops, where more sophisticated equipment is installed, for example, Trommelberg models.
2 An alternative to a self-made machine
If you can’t make a machine for servicing wheels with your own hands, you can pay attention to the most affordable models of such equipment on sale. They allow you to balance anchors and other manipulations. Among those:
- Trommelberg 1850 is one of best version machines that allow you to remove the problems of cardan shafts, as well as work with the wheels of cars. Semi-automatic It does not require much operator experience in working with such equipment. Extremely easy to set up and further use trommelberg 1850 can be installed both in workshops for servicing cardan shafts, balancing anchors and other auto parts, and at home. Little is used to balance anchors.
- Trommelberg 1860, which comes with a third hand. Most functional view equipment, addressed primarily to professional workshops that carry out the repair of cardan shafts, where the third hand is an important element. Can also be used in living conditions if you have to service your wheels regularly. In other cases, the trommelberg model plus a third hand may be too complicated for you. It can be used not only for cars, but also for trucks. It can also be used to balance anchors, but is rarely used for such purposes.
- Protektor U-201 is an example of high-tech equipment for wheel maintenance. Designed specifically for workshops in which cardan elements are repaired, anchor balancing, as well as other manipulations. Works with a wide range of wheels. Their diameter can be 12-24". Thanks to more light construction than in the 12-24", 1850 model, it can be used for small workshops, as well as home conditions. The instructions will help you figure out this high-tech option.
Of course, in many cases professional machines, the same equipment trommelberg 1850, model 1860 plus the third hand, much more accurate in work and, what to hide, more functional thanks to the assembly, because they will even make it possible to balance the anchors. However, they are often too expensive for the consumer. That is why, before buying them, you should consider the possibility of assembling equipment with your own hands, especially since it is not so difficult.
Each motorist can make his own tire changer. All you need is desire and patience. This article will help you build own machine and talk about some tricks.
Making such a tire changer is not so difficult. Unlike others homemade models, this machine is mobile. He is on wheels. After work, you can always transport it to a corner. So it won't take up too much space.
The design is pretty simple. The base is T-shaped, made of two channels 100 mm wide. The length of one channel leaves 590 mm, and the second 800 mm. They are welded perpendicular to each other.
From above, a pipe with a diameter of 55 mm is welded to a longer channel. The length of the pipe is selected specifically for your height. To make it easier for you to operate the machine. In this case, a pipe with a length of 800 mm is used. Its thickness should not be less than 3 mm, otherwise the pipe will bend. At the base, it is also recommended to weld several corners. This will strengthen the design.
A movable foot is put on over the pipe. It moves through the pipe larger diameter. Its length is 120 mm. A small channel is welded to this pipe. The main thing is to first carve a recess on it so that it wraps around the pipe. Instead of a channel, you can use corners welded together.
A heel is welded to the end of the foot. The heel can be made from a piece of an old disk. In this case, the disk from the "Lada" It is important to weld in correct location. From below, the heel should protrude, that is, it must be welded a little lower and at an angle. On the heel itself, you can weld another small piece of metal so that it protrudes even lower. This "tooth" will help when working with old, stuck tires.
After putting on the foot, a part of the profile pipe is welded to the rack. Its wall should not be less than 3 mm. The distance from the welded profile pipe to the lowered foot is 450 mm.
The mobile foot and the protrusion from the profiled pipe together represent a mechanism for pressing the tire.
This concludes the consideration of the lower part of the tire changer. Now let's move on to the top.
The top part is the bed. Wheels are beaded on it. The bed can be made from the same disk from which the heel was cut. Part of the disk is then welded to a pipe with a smaller diameter than the post. Welding is carried out from below so that the seam does not interfere. The pipe should be chosen so that it does not hang out inside. And for fixing, you can drill holes in the rack and the tube of the bed, and use bolts as clamps.
For versatility, notches can be cut into the disc for larger diameter wheels and gazelle wheels.
The top of the bed is swivel and removable. It is inserted according to the principle of a pipe in a pipe. This device serves as a guide when boarding.
Now consider homemade tools, which will help to easily carry out wheel beading work. Let's look at the disassembly tool first.
The handle of this tool is made from a profile pipe or assembled from corners. Towards the end, the tool is cone-shaped, and at the very tip there is a bearing.
The second tool is for assembling the wheels.
The handle for it can also be made from a pipe or corners. Special attention should be given to the tip. The tip is made of several parts. The first part, the tongue, is made of case hardened tool steel.
to him with reverse side the second part is welded in the form of a pipe trim. Welding must not be carried out over the entire circumference, the right and upper parts must be free from seams. Otherwise, the tool will tear the rubber. It should also be fixed exactly in the position as shown in the photo.
Consideration of the machine is over, it remains to tell how it works.
The wheel is placed on the machine and adjusted to the leg. Then a jack is placed on the lowered leg. With its help, spinning the tire off the wheel is done with ease. Having completely squeezed the tire from the disk, you can start disassembling.
The wheel is mounted on a frame and twisted so that it does not spin. Then, having previously lubricated the tire, the edge is hooked with a crowbar or a small crowbar.
A tool for disassembly is inserted into the resulting gap and, using a guide, we draw along the circumference of the disk.
The assembly of the wheel is as follows.
The tire must be generously lubricated. The tongue of the assembly tool must be inserted into the gap between the rim and the tire. Then, using the lever, guide the tool along the circumference, while using the other hand to help the tire cling to the side of the disk. If necessary, the tool can be raised.
When you reach the end, the wheel will be ready.
Video: do-it-yourself tire changer - part one.
Video: second part.
