Installation plastic windows begins ... No, not with measurements, but with calculations: think about whether it is worth spending time and whether you have right tool. Yes, window installation is not difficult, but it will take a whole day for three or four window openings. If you do not have a tool (at a minimum, you will need powerful drill, and even better - a puncher) and the skills to work with it, then it will take more time to work.
Advice: it is interesting to calculate how profitable installing plastic windows can be, based on your income per day / week and an estimate of the time that you will spend on installing it yourself. If you are confident in your abilities, then it is quite possible to choose self-assembly, especially when it comes to wide large windows. If we are talking about small window structures, specialists can also do this. And yet, it’s difficult to install windows alone, start preparing for installation by “processing” friends who can help you.
You have decided to install windows yourself: where do we start?
We start by inspecting the window opening. The first thing to determine is the type: with or without a quarter. It would be useful to measure the depth of the window, because the larger it is, the more warm window can be installed in the opening.
With a quarter or without - how to understand?
- A window with a quarter has ledges (their height is approximately equal to a quarter of the length of a standard brick).
- A window opening without a quarter of the protrusions does not have, which means that the window is less protected from falling out.
Why is a quarter needed and what problems will there be if it is not there?
The quarter performs two functions:
- Protecting the window from falling out.
- Protecting the mounting foam (and the entire mounting assembly) from sun rays and moisture.
When installing a window in an opening without a quarter, you will have to use more attachment points. For windows with a quarter, it is enough to place attachment points at intervals of 70 cm. For openings in which there is no quarter, it is better to play it safe and make smaller intervals - 40-50-60 cm, depending on the size and weight of the window.
Advice: how to understand that a window opening with a quarter? It's simple, measure the height of the bottom / side of the frame, inside and out. If outside it is smaller, then a window with a quarter. Remember that, depending on the project of the house, a quarter can be located both on the sides of the window and on top, and along the entire perimeter of the opening, or only on the sides.
In a word, we now have to measure the window: and not seven times, but more.
Correct measurements before installing windows
Even in houses built according to standard project, no two windows are the same. To measure openings, you can call a specialist: the cost of measurements will range from 400-600 rubles - in fact, you pay only for the visit of the master. It makes sense to call a measurer if you order the manufacture of windows. When buying ready-made - and companies that install plastic windows often offer ready-made window structures, for window openings of typical houses - you can measure the openings yourself.
We measure:
- The width of the window opening in three places - in the upper and lower parts of the opening and in the middle.
- The height of the window opening - right, left and in the middle.
- If there is a quarter, we measure the parameters of the opening from the right to the left side quarter and from the upper quarter to the bottom of the opening.
Subtract from the obtained dimensions, if the window is without a quarter:
- 5 cm vertically.
- 3 cm horizontally.
If a quarter window then subtract from the distance between the upper quarter and the bottom 3 cm.
The measurements are not over yet, because we need to figure out what the length and width of the window sill and low tide will be. We measure:
- The length of the window sill, add 5-10 cm to it.
- The width of the window sill, add 4-5 cm to it.
- The length of the tide is as accurate as possible.
- The width of the tide, add 5 cm to it.
The measurements are completed.
Summing up the measurements
You can go to a company that manufactures and sells plastic windows if you have the following numbers:
- Window height.
- Window width.
- The length and width of the tide.
- The length and width of the window sill.
Based on these measurements, you can choose a window from ready-made solutions or place an order for production.
Advice: Find out what the manufacturer guarantees. If the warranty covers fittings, the integrity (tightness) of the double-glazed window and profiles - everything is fine. If only for accessories - not bad either. If the manufacturer refuses to give a guarantee for fittings or double-glazed windows, citing the fact that “you install it yourself, we can’t guarantee anything,” feel free to go to another company.
Have you made sure that everything is in order with the guarantee? Specify the completeness of the delivery. In addition to a window of a given size and a double-glazed window assembly, you must deliver:
- Windowsill.
- Spacer profile.
- Window sill caps.
- Low tide.
- Anchor plates with which the window will be fixed in the opening.
When ordering a window, please specify:
- Profile width.
- The number of chambers in a double-glazed window.
- Width and length of supplied end caps, flashing and window sill and spacer profile.
Advice: take an interest in the thickness of the double-glazed window and in what is the distance between the glasses in a two- and three-chamber package. If it is not the same, they sell you a good double-glazed window made in accordance with the recommendations of GOST.
We intentionally do not touch upon the issues of choosing a window according to the type of fittings, double-glazed windows and design features (deaf, one- and two-leaf, with a transom or window, etc.) This is a topic for a separate volumetric material. In the meantime, in detail, with examples, specialists from firms that manufacture and install plastic windows can tell about this.
We choose the installation method: plastic windows and installation technology
When ordering installation, the cost of installing plastic windows does not depend on how they are installed. If you decide to do it yourself, it is important to understand the differences between the two technologies:
- With preliminary unpacking and disassembly of the window.
- In one piece - without dismantling the packages and removing the sashes.
The second option is chosen by installation teams: two or three people will easily install the window in an unassembled form. If you mount the window yourself, it will be difficult to hold a massive structure - it is much easier to disassemble the window by removing the double-glazed windows. But. In case of inaccurate dismantling, glass damage, leakage of the package, scratches and chips on the glazing beads that hold the package in the frame are possible. You need to choose: are you ready to spend an extra hour on the neat dismantling of a double-glazed window, or do you feel able to lift and hold the window without dismantling - even if for a short time?
Depending on whether the installation is done with disassembly (unpacking) or without, the frame is attached to the walls of the opening in different ways:
- When installing a plastic window with unpacking, the fasteners are made through, through the frame to the wall, which, on the one hand, increases the strength of the structure, and on the other hand, makes it necessary to more carefully mark the places for installation.
- When installing a window without unpacking, the frame is attached to the opening through anchor strips, which are mounted on the top and sides of the window, thus being located between the frame and the walls of the opening.
With the exception of increased power loads, the second option without unpacking has no drawbacks. The risk of damage to the glazing beads or plastic of the frame/sash is minimal, and you won’t have to accurately align the location of the attachment points, because. the anchor bar can be rotated as needed by choosing appropriate place for reciprocal fastening in a wall.
Advice: if you are an inexperienced installer, then choose the installation option without unpacking - it will turn out faster. If you install windows at a low height, up to 5-6 floors, then you can also refuse to unpack. If the window is located high, from the 10th floor and above - choose the option with unpacking. If the windows are large - too.
Preparation for window installation: tool, dismantling and alignment
In order not to detect dew inside the double-glazed window after installing plastic windows, so that the window does not arch from the pressure of the foam or start to “walk” along with the surrounding sections of the wall, the place for installation must be prepared. We are to:
- Dismantle the old window.
- Remove the remains of fasteners, trim.
- Treat the window sill, slopes and low tide.
Important! IN wooden houses installation of windows is complicated by the fact that it is necessary to take into account seasonal (temperature) expansion and contraction of a log or beam. To compensate for them, quite complex structure- pigtail. This is discussed in a separate paragraph of the instructions for installing plastic windows.
Dismantling the old window
Most likely you need to dismantle wooden window- firmly seated on solid Soviet hardware. It is better to start by removing the sashes: the smaller the weight of the structure to be dismantled, the easier it is to dispose of it. Is it worth removing the glass? Rather yes than no. Glass can still come in handy, but remember that the larger it is, the more difficult (and dangerous) it is to carry. If you can’t think of glass applications, feel free to leave them framed.
Adviсe: first - always remove the sashes before dismantling the window. Use a chisel or the flat part of a pry bar to “break” hardened paint or rust and pry up the rest of the sash hinges. After that, it is usually easy to remove it with your hands. Second - seal the glass crosswise with adhesive tape. The wider it is, the better. Treat with adhesive tape and the joints of the glass and the sash. This way you will protect yourself from falling glass and from splinters if the glass breaks.
The frame is easier to remove by first sawing it on the sides, top and bottom. The divided sections of the frame are removed using a pry bar or a chisel with a hammer.
Do not rush to take out all at once wooden frame frames - leave one “cut”: during installation, plastic windows need lining and leveling wedges that can be quickly cut from the same sash.
Preparing a window opening after dismantling an old window
Remove dust and small debris from the surface of the window sill and slopes. Drive the old fastener deep into the wall or pull it out: it is better to putty the holes from the old anchors.
The window sill is also removed - the surface under it can not be leveled, since the new plastic window sill will lie on a foam pad and possibly wedges.
If there is time, then, of course, you can work a little on leveling: using a quick-drying putty.
Installing a plastic window
Take your time, first mentally divide the work into stages. It's best to distribute it like this:
- We mark places for fasteners.
- We install fasteners in the frame.
- Places marked for fasteners in window opening we deepen - that is, we simply knock down plaster, concrete or brick to a depth of 4 cm. In width, if you are installing a window for the first time, it is better to play it safe and make the area deeper.
Marking the place for fasteners
Everything here should be done according to GOST: the distance between the fastening points should not exceed 70 cm. At the same time, a distance of about 10-15 cm can be left between the walls of the opening and the extreme fasteners.
Marking should be done with an indelible marker, so that later you do not look for erased marks. If possible, mark the marked places. This will make it easier to find them and make drilling for dowels or anchors more accurate.
Advice: it would be useful to connect the fastening points with lines, along which you can quite accurately estimate the distance between the fastening points and on the frame itself.
Installing fasteners in the frame
Recall that if you chose to install a plastic window with unpacking, you will have to prepare the window:
- Remove staples.
- Remove glass pane.
- Place and align the frame, having previously opened the sashes.
After that, with long self-tapping screws through the frame through the window is attached to the opening. The difficulty is that the window will have to be aligned vertically / horizontally in advance, and there will be practically no opportunity to somehow correct the inaccuracy of the markup.
If you followed the advice and preferred installation without unpacking, it's time to start installing fasteners on the frame. Here we will be helped by previously made measurements and marks on the surface of the window opening. Special precision is not needed here, since the direction of the anchor plate can always be changed.
Wedges are used for leveling - stands made of wood, brick or a suitable piece of concrete. It is better if these are wedges made of wood: individual pieces of the dismantled during the dismantling of the old wooden frame. As a rule, it is wood hardened by wind, rain and sun, the strength of which is enough to hold a heavy window.
If you prepared the window opening correctly, then, most likely, wedges will not be needed. If the window does not want to be displayed horizontally and vertically, we begin to work with wedges. You need to remember:
- Two smaller wedges are better than one big one.
- You need to put the wedges strictly under the perpendicular parts of the frame: the lower and upper ones - under the vertical ones, and the side ones - opposite the horizontal ones.
- The installation order of the wedges is two lower, two upper (vertical), right and left.
After setting the height of the window, you can fix the top anchor plates- not completely, but so that the window is fixed.
Significantly simplifies the process of exhibiting the presence of a mounting plate.
A window that has been set vertically and horizontally can be fixed. And here the question arises for many: what to fix. Dowels or anchors? Dowels, in principle, are enough to withstand even big window. But is it worth saving on a window? In our opinion, anchors, as more reliable fasteners, are preferable, although you will have to tinker with their clogging.
During fastening, the anchor plates can be rotated, the angle of rotation depends on how accurately you marked the places along the fasteners and how accurately you correlated the fasteners on the frame with them.
The tide is pre-cut to desired length. Mounted outside, on self-tapping screws. It is better to choose self-tapping screws with a moisture-proof cap or seal for fastening.
Possible options:
- Installation of fasteners in the frame (undesirable, because metal self-tapping screw- this is a real bridge of cold between the street and the inner chambers window profile).
- Fastening to the wall under the frame.
Before installing the tide, you need to clean and dry the section of the wall that it will cover. Additionally, the joint of the frame and the lower part of the window opening is treated with a sealant.
After that, you can start sealing the window.
Window sealing: PSUL, foam, membrane
Leaky or incorrectly made mounting seams between the frame and the walls of the window opening are one of the main causes of problems with plastic windows. Wrong - it means ignoring the recommendations of the domestic GOST 30971-2002 Mounting seams of junctions.
According to GOST, the seam between the wall of the window opening and the frame must be multi-layered, this is the only way to succeed:
- Seal the contact between wall and frame.
- Ensure protection against moisture (including condensation) and wind.
- Protect the seam from UV and high temperatures.
The assembly seam according to GOST includes three layers:
- Protective outer vapor permeable.
- Internal heat insulating.
- Internal membrane, moisture-proof.
The first (outer) layer is perfectly done with PSUL - pre-compressed self-sealing tape. It is located:
- In the seams between the frame and the window opening.
- Under the tide
- Between window sill and spacer profile.
This tape can be found in any hardware store. The adhesive layer allows you to securely fix it on any surface. In our case, PSUL is placed on the wall, after a while the tape expands, filling the smallest voids in the seam.
After the tape, the seams are foamed. So that the mounting foam does not press on the frame profiles, it must be applied in several steps, with an interval of 10-15 minutes.
The next layer of the “seam of the junction assembly” can be made later, a day or two after the installation of the window, during which time the foam will finally harden. Membrane adhesive tape can be used as the last layer.
Everything is pretty simple here:
- The window sill blank (profile) is cut to the desired length.
- The finished cut is applied to the spacer profile.
- Wedges are driven under the window sill for even alignment along the horizon / height.
- Plugs are put on the window sill (included).
- The cavity under the window sill is foaming.
- From above, we install a load on the windowsill - containers with water, heavy things.
- We are waiting for a day.
- We cut off the foam and, if necessary, treat the cut surface with putty - for painting, plastering or wallpaper.
In general, everything. Only Finishing work, they can be carried out after installing plastic windows in two to three days:
- Installation plastic slopes or plastering.
- Plastering of external surfaces of slopes.
You can also check how evenly the window was installed and how the fittings work. Open / close the window, open and see if the sash opens on its own.
Installation of plastic windows in a wooden house
The technology for installing plastic windows in a wooden house is significantly different from the traditional one. The bottom line is that the thermal expansion of a tree (beam, log) and plastic varies. Plus - the tree either absorbs moisture, expanding, then gives it away, drying out. Therefore, the task of the installer is to make sure that the thermal expansion of the walls is compensated, to make the window “floating” in the opening.
To solve the problem, a pigtail is used. This wooden structure, box and beam, which is put on the vertical and horizontal grooves in the window opening.
Otherwise, the installation procedure is similar, except that you should not devote so much time to the exact alignment of the mounting points on the frame and in the opening.
As you can see, installing the window yourself is easy. If you are not sure that you will cope with the task, if the window is of a complex shape (arched, round) or just very large, it is better to order installation along with the manufacture. You can choose a manufacturer and a company that installs plastic windows in the appropriate section of our portal.
If you or your friends have previously used the services of companies for the installation of double-glazed windows, then you know that installation can be ordinary and in accordance with GOST. The second option is more expensive, but if all the requirements are met, then the quality will be much higher than in the first one (for more details about the standards, see GOST 30971-02).
Consists of several stages.
Note! When manufacturers do not give a guarantee if the measurements were not carried out by their employees. If the windows are installed incorrectly, they will soon begin to freeze, and if even the slightest mistake was made in the calculations, then the structure simply will not enter the opening.
However, if you study all the subtleties of the process, then there will be no difficulties during installation. Moreover, this way you can save a decent amount of money.
Video - Installation of PVC windows in accordance with GOST
Stage 1. Measurements
In most apartments there are openings without a quarter.
Note! A quarter is an internal frame 6 cm wide (or ¼ of a brick, hence the name), which prevents the window from falling out and strengthens the structure as a whole.
If there is no quarter, then the frame will be installed on anchors, and the foam will be closed with special flashings. Determining the presence of a quarter is quite simple: if the inner and outer widths of the frame are different, then there is still a quarter.
- First, the width of the opening (the distance between the slopes) is determined. It is recommended to remove the plaster so that the result is more accurate.
- Next, the height is measured (the distance between the slope from above and the window sill).
Note! Measurements must be repeated several times and take the smallest result.
To determine the width of the window, two mounting gaps are subtracted from the width of the opening. To determine the height, the same two gaps plus the profile height for the stand are subtracted from the height of the opening.
The symmetry and straightness of the opening is checked, for which the mounting level and plumb line are used. All defects and irregularities must be indicated in the drawing.
To determine the width of the outflow, 5 cm should be added to the already existing outflow for the bend. Also, the width of the insulation and cladding is taken into account (subject to the subsequent finishing of the facade).
The dimensions of the window sill are determined as follows: the size of the departure is added to the width of the opening, the width of the frame is subtracted from the received figure. With regards to departure, it should cover the heating radiator by a third.
Note! measured after installation.
Stage 2. Order
After measurements finished drawing should be referred to the manufacturer of windows, all the necessary fittings will be selected there. It is worth remembering that installation can be performed in one of two existing ways:
In the first option, you will have to pull the package out of the frame, insert it into the opening and install the glass back. In the second case, the entire structure is attached entirely. Each option has disadvantages - if you pull out the package, then it can; and vice versa, if the window is installed assembled, then it can be damaged due to its large weight.
Prices for a popular line of windows
Stage 3. Preparation
This stage of installation begins only after the delivery of the ordered windows. Freed first workplace, all furniture is covered plastic wrap(there will be a lot of dust).
Step 1. If required, a double-glazed window is removed from the window. To do this, the glazing bead is slightly tucked with a staple and pulled out. First of all, vertical glazing beads are removed, then horizontal. They are necessarily numbered, otherwise gaps form after installation.
Step 3. The bolts are unscrewed after the plugs are removed from the canopies. The handle is turned to the "ventilation mode" (in the center), the window is slightly opened and removed. Only the frame with imposts remains.
Note! Imposts are special lintels intended for dividing sashes.
Then you need to make markings for the anchors and make holes on it - two from the bottom / top and three from each side. This will require anchors ø1 cm and a drill of the required diameter.
If the material from which the walls are made is loose (for example, cellular concrete), then fastening is carried out using anchor hangers. The latter should be fixed on the wall and frame with hardened self-tapping screws (eight pieces each).
Note! To avoid the formation of a thermal bridge in the window sill profile, it must be filled the day before installation. So the element will not freeze through.
Stage 4. Dismantling work
This procedure is recommended to be carried out immediately before installing a new window. In most cases, the old ones are thrown away, so the structure can be pulled out along with the mount, and, if necessary, the frame can be sawn.
Step 1. First, the seal and thermal insulation are removed.
Step 3. The window sill is removed, the cement layer under it is cleaned off.
Step 4 Adjacent surfaces are treated with a primer (by the way, many installers forget about this). In the case of a wooden opening, a layer of waterproofing material is laid around the perimeter.
Note! Installation can be carried out at a temperature not lower than -15ᵒС. Mounting foam must be frost-resistant.
Stage 5. Installing a plastic window
Step 1. First, wooden wedges are placed around the entire perimeter, a window is installed on them (it will be easier to align the structure), only after that it is fixed to the wall. Substrates can be left - they will serve as additional fasteners.
Step 2. The absence of a stand profile can be considered a gross violation of GOST standards, since it is not only needed for stability, but also makes it possible to install an ebb with a window sill. In the absence of a profile, they are attached directly to the frame, which violates its tightness.
The correct location of the stand profile is shown in the diagram.
Step 3. Next, the evenness of the window is checked in three planes, for which the mounting level and plumb line are used. Characteristically, traditional bubble levels they are not suitable for this due to insufficient measurement accuracy, so it is better to use.
Step 4. If the window is straight, then it is fixed with anchors. To do this, a wall is drilled through pre-prepared holes in the structure with a puncher (about 6-10 cm). The lower anchors are fixed (not completely), the evenness of the package is checked again, after which the remaining points are attached.
Note! The final screed is made only after the final check. Do not tighten too much, otherwise the design will “skew”.
Prices for mounting foams and cleaners for mounting guns
Mounting foams and cleaners for mounting guns
Stage 6. Drainage
Outside, an ebb is attached to the stand profile with self-tapping screws. The joints are carefully sealed with sealant to prevent moisture from penetrating into the structure.
The edges of the tide are recessed into the walls for several centimeters, having previously made recesses with a perforator.
Note! Before installation, the lower slot is also sealed.
Stage 7. Assembly of the window
After fixing the anchors, the double-glazed window is inserted back.
Step 1. The glass is inserted and fixed with glazing beads (the latter should snap into place, for which you can lightly tap them with a rubber mallet).
Step 2. The flaps open, the tightness of their fit is checked. In the open position, arbitrary opening/closing of the sash cannot occur if the window is level.
Step 3. A mounting seam is sealed on the sides. Polyurethane foam will provide high-quality waterproofing and prevent glass from fogging. Before and after sealing, the joints are sprayed with water to improve polymerization.
Note! The seams are filled no more than 90%, otherwise the structure will “lead”. If everything is done correctly, after drying, the foam will come out a few centimeters.
Step 4. The perimeter of the window is glued with a special vapor barrier tape, and a material with a foil surface is used from below.
Stage 8. Installation of the window sill
Step 1. The window sill is cut in such a way that it enters the opening and at the same time rests against the lining profile. There remains a small gap (about 1 cm) for thermal expansion. In the future, the gap is hidden by plastic
Step 2 Wooden wedges are placed under the windowsill. It must be laid with a slight slope towards the room, and then applied with something heavy for a while until the foam dries. Additionally, the window sill can be fixed with anchor plates.
Video - Instructions for installing plastic windows
conclusions
Now you know how plastic windows are installed, so you can safely get to work. The final check of all elements can be carried out only 24 hours after the end of installation (then the foam will already “grab”).
The described technology is quite applicable to, although there are some nuances there - such as, for example, installing a parapet to create a partition.
Find out how to do it right from our new article.
Window installation always begins with measuring the window opening. This procedure is the most important: the correct measurement will depend on overall quality installation.
For this reason, it is recommended to entrust this procedure to professionals. But it doesn’t hurt to know how to measure windows correctly, because this, at a minimum, will help you determine how experienced the window installers are, and whether you should think about contacting another, more competent organization.
What are the consequences of incorrectly measuring the window opening?
Wrong taken dimensions window openings often lead to considerable problems. For example, the window frame may be larger than the opening, and this is an additional cost for expanding this very opening. Smaller windows are no less of a hassle. As a result of their installation, gaps may appear that will have to be filled. mounting foam, or solve the issue by increasing the slopes. Again, extra costs, both time and materials.
In addition, such a window is unlikely to cope well with the functions assigned to it: to protect an apartment or house from cold air, precipitation, etc.
It is worth noting that from different types window openings depends on the approach to measurement. We will talk about this further.
How to correctly measure window openings with a "quarter"?
Professionals say that it is most difficult to measure window openings with a “quarter” (photo 1). In this case, we mean openings that have a protrusion of ¼ of a brick of the outer perimeter. This ledge is necessary in order to protect the structure from falling out.
So, how to properly measure windows that have such a ledge. When measuring, it is important to take into account that usually these “quarters” are not symmetrical, their sizes may differ: for example, distortions are possible, both vertically and horizontally.
When measuring a window, experts always follow the main rules (so that there are no unnecessary problems during the installation process):
- size window frame should be such that it goes beyond the side "quarter" by about two to four centimeters, i.e. the frame should be wider;
- the frame should go beyond the upper wall of the opening no more than one and a half to two centimeters;
- the window sill beam is made one or two centimeters higher than the lower wall of the opening: this is necessary for the trouble-free installation of the ebb.
The figures show in detail how the window with a "quarter" is measured.
Figure 1: Measuring the width.
A - the width of the window along the slopes from the outside (we add 4 cm to it);
B is the distance between the points where internal slopes will adjoin the frame;
D - actually, the width of the window;
C is the width of the opening from the inside.
Note: after measuring, it must be checked that the width D is not greater than the distance B and the width C.
Figure 2: Height measurement.
E – window height without substitution profile;
F is the height of the opening from the base to the upper slope (outside); 1-2 cm is subtracted from it for the gap, and 2-3 cm is added to enter the frame beyond the "quarter" from above;
G - height of the substitution profile
H is the height of the window, taking into account the substitution profile.
How to properly measure a window without a “quarter”?
The presence of a "quarter" at the window opening is not always found. Such protrusions are usually not made in panel and wooden houses (photo 2).
Naturally, such openings require a different approach to sizing. Let's name the basic rules for measuring such windows:
- when measuring the opening, it is taken from its width from 2 to 10 centimeters to leave space for mounting seams;
- there is usually only one horizontal gap - from above; its width varies from 3 to 6 centimeters.
General rules for measuring windows for all types of openings
It is important to remember when measuring the window and the fact that the frame during installation should not rest against the opening, it should be slightly smaller. This gap, called the mounting gap, is necessary in order to leave room for natural expansion of the structure. According to the rules for installing plastic windows, the seam can be from 2 to 5 centimeters.
When measuring windows, it is important to remember that measurements should be taken both indoors and outdoors.
When determining the width of the future window, we measure the opening from the top, middle and bottom, and choose the smallest value. From this number, the distance to the gaps is subtracted, the resulting value will correspond to the size of the frame. The height is also measured at several points (left, middle and right), and the distance required for mounting gaps and a substitution profile is also subtracted from the smallest value. The resulting difference is the height of the future horse.
Window measurement technology only seems simple. In order to prevent unnecessary errors, it is best to entrust the measurement of the window opening to professionals who will be able to correctly calculate the dimensions of the frame even for the most non-standard openings.
Installing PVC windows is a simple matter if you have at least once held in your hands Building tools and at least a little understanding of the materials. Installation of such windows will take a little time: half an hour to an hour to dismantle old windows and 2 hours to install new ones.
Installation of PVC windows. Installation according to GOST
GOST for the installation of PVC windows, unfortunately, in most cases is only advisory in nature, but some rules should be followed during the installation of windows. First of all, this concerns preliminary measurements. We determine the type of window opening - with or without a quarter. Below is good example schematic view of the opening with a quarter (A), without a quarter (B).
Scheme 1 - Window opening with a quarter and without a quarter
Measurement of windows without a quarter
Installation of windows without a quarter occurs by installing windows in a cleared window opening. To order a window:
- subtract 5 cm from the vertical size of the window opening - an indicator of the height of the window;
- subtract 3 cm from the size of the window opening horizontally - an indicator of the width of the window.
These gaps will subsequently be filled with mounting foam: i.e. 1.5 cm on each vertical side of the window, as well as 1.5 cm for the upper horizontal and 3.5 cm for the bottom (for mounting the window sill).
We measure the length and width of the window sill, the outer ebb and add at least 5 cm to the numbers obtained - the window sill should crash into the wall from both sides of the window.
Measurement of windows with a quarter
We measure the window opening horizontally at the narrowest point. We add 3 cm to the resulting number (1.5 cm each on the sides of the window) - this is the required window width. Vertically, we measure the length from the bottom of the window opening to the upper quarter - this is the required vertical size of the window.
The window sill and the ebb are measured in the same way as the option without a quarter.
As a result, you should have:
- window height indicator;
- window width;
- window sill length;
- window sill width;
- tide length;
- tide width.
Scheme 2 - Window measurements
Installation technology
The technology for installing new windows in old houses is similar. The only amendment is that the measurements of the new window are made according to the outer dimensions of the window frame being dismantled.
When ordering a window, also specify whether the delivery set includes:
- windowsill;
- plugs;
- mounting profile (mounting profile);
- anchor plates for fixing windows;
- instructions for PVC installation windows (some manufacturers include it in the kit).
When ordering a window, you should also know the answers to the following questions:
- What type of window profile do you want to order - 3-, 4- or 5-chamber?
- What type of double-glazed window did you choose - 1, 2, 3-chamber?
- The method of opening your window is a blind window, a window with opening, a tilt-and-turn window with ventilation, or a combination window (tilt-and-turn window with ventilation and micro-ventilation).
By the way, if you want to get a quality product at a reasonable price, you should choose from mainly German and, not surprisingly, domestic manufacturers of window systems: REHAU, Veka, KBE, Schuko, Aluplast, Kemmerling, Brugmann or Trocal.
The installation technology provides for two methods: installation of PVC windows with unpacking and installation of windows without unpacking.
Scheme 3 - The device of a metal-plastic window
The first method involves preliminary disassembly of the window: removal of glazing beads, removal of double-glazed windows from the frame, fixing the frame to the wall with dowels, and subsequent installation of double-glazed windows and glazing beads.
The second technology for removing double-glazed windows does not require: the frame is attached using fixed on outer surface wall fasteners, not dowels through and through.
The unpacking method of installation can sometimes lead to fogging of windows, and with a lack of experience, glazing beads and double-glazed windows can be damaged, and the installation process itself will take much longer. Of course correct installation will not lead to any negative consequences. However, be extremely careful!
The unpacking method is rightfully considered more reliable, especially if the frame was fastened to large long anchors. If we are talking about fixing a window on a floor above the 15th, about installation large windows(2x2 m), right choice- fasten the frame through, dismantling the window.
Required tool
To install windows you will need:
- screwdriver;
- level;
- gun (for a cylinder of mounting foam and sealant);
- polyurethane foam (1-3 bottles per 1 standard window);
- PSUL for external waterproofing;
- primer;
- perforator;
- set of hexagons;
- jigsaw;
- stationery knife;
- pencil;
- paint brush;
- roulette.
We install windows. Work progress
In the process of installation work, you should focus on the previously outlined plan: the window installation scheme (you drew it yourself or it was given as an example in the instructions from the manufacturer of window systems) will help you avoid mistakes and follow the plan clearly. If you are in doubt whether your calculations or ideas about the window installation process are correct, you can help routing window installation - a universal set of rules and regulations for installation, guided by which you will be sure of the correctness of your actions.
We dismantle the old window and prepare the surface for the installation of a new window system.
Getting the tool ready.
To improve the adhesion of waterproofing tapes to the surface of the opening, we treat it with a primer. The primer is applied with a paint brush.
After removing the cellophane wrapping of windows, glue the inner vapor barrier tape to the frame along the half-perimeter.
Figure 1 - Pasting the window frame with vapor barrier tape along the half-perimeter
We glue the frame with an external vapor barrier - we fasten the PSUL along the outer surface of the frame. When pasting, do not allow gaps between the joints of the tape. PSUL - a vapor-permeable tape will not allow the release of mounting foam when processing gaps to the outside, protecting not only appearance structures, but also mounting foam from impact environment− precipitation, ultraviolet and wind destroying the foam.
We install the frame in the opening, align and fix it, focusing on the installation rules:
- on the frame prepared for installation, we mark the places of subsequent fastening;
- we fasten from 4 sides of the frame in increments of 70 cm, while the indent from the corner of the window frame to the first fastener should be no more than 15 cm;
- fasteners are fixed to the window frame (the self-tapping screw must be fixed in the metal inside the frame, because right technology installation involves the use of self-tapping screws for metal with a diameter of 4-5 mm, with large sizes window, the diameter of the self-tapping screw should be 12 mm);
- use anchor plates as fasteners;
- in places for mounting fasteners, we make recesses in the window opening (fasteners are recessed by 2-4 cm for the convenience of working with slopes after completion of window installation work);
- the window must be level (to slightly level the window horizontally, you can use wooden wedges, placing them under the frame at the right points);
- to fix the frame in the opening, we install wedges - first the bottom two, thanks to which you can set the lower and upper edges of the frame to the horizon (so that the window does not dangle, it is appropriate to fix the upper anchor), then the wedges are fixed vertically to the window;
- fasten the window to the window opening.
On the outer side of the window opening we attach a diffuse tape under the ebb.
After adjusting the fittings (buying fittings from a manufacturer other than the manufacturer of the window system is not recommended, however, if necessary, pay attention to offers from Winkhaus, Siegenia, G-U, Aubi, Schuko (Germany), Maco (Austria)) you can foam the window (apply mounting foam along the entire perimeter of the window frame, taking into account that this mounting material increases its volume up to 3 times) and after 15-20 minutes after processing all the gaps, it is necessary to bend protective film, previously applied around the perimeter of the window frame so that it completely covers the mounting gaps (see figure).
Figure 2 - Processing assembly seams
We fix the tide. It is desirable to install it under the window - so you can avoid water seepage at the connecting seam of the ebb and the window frame.
Do-it-yourself PVC window installation in winter
Many are concerned with the question: "Is it possible winter montage PVC windows?
Of course it's possible! And the installation technology is unchanged. The only thing worth paying attention to is the indicators temperature regime for the materials used in the installation. In particular - indicators of the use of mounting foam.
Special winter options have been developed, thanks to which you can work even at -10 ° C!
When choosing mounting foam for winter work focus on products trademarks Macroflex Profi (Finland), Illbruck (USA) and Moment (Russia).
PVC window sill installation
Installation of PVC window sill completes the installation of new window units.
The length and width of most window sills is standard. In any case, you need to take a window sill with a margin in length and width. Excess can be easily trimmed with a grinder.
Work progress:
Bring the window sill under the window and level it using wooden wedges or any other durable material at hand.
The window sill should go into the wall at least 1.5 cm.
Before the final installation, make sure that the window sill does not sag by pressing in several places.
The slope of the window sill relative to the window should not exceed 3°.
We blow out the cavity under the windowsill with construction foam.
The surface of the window sill must be evenly loaded for at least 12 hours so that the mounting foam, expanding, does not affect the installation angle of the window sill.
After a day, the remaining foam is removed with a clerical knife, and the joint between the window and the window sill is treated with a sealant.
Scheme 4 - Installation of a window sill
It remains only to install the slopes on the PVC windows - and you're done!
According to GOST! Installation of PVC windows: VIDEO
Installation of PVC windows: VIDEO
$ Installation of PVC windows: issue price
The cost of work will depend on how much your window costs: companies that provide a full package of services often deduce window installation prices from the cost of a window - starting from 10%. Thus, when doing the work with your own hands, savings on installing windows can range from $ 40 to $ 60 (for one window).
Installation of PVC windows. Price:
- Kyiv - from 100-130 UAH. per m²;
- Moscow - from 1,000 - 1,200 rubles. per m².
The cost of plastic windows with installation:
The cost of plastic windows with installation ranges on average from $80-90 (deaf window 1 m by 1.5 m) and up to $2,200 (glazing of a plot of 3.4 m by 1.5 m of a sliding two-chamber window system). As you can see, the price range is amazing. Window installation is a price that is not always included in the total amount. Therefore, when signing an order for the manufacture of a window and the corresponding contract, make sure what is included in the final price, and what you still have to spend money on.
The estimate is an extremely important document: when you receive it in your hands, ask for a full price list of work and materials - checking is never superfluous.
The cost of installation, paid separately, is different: prices vary between $ 30-70.
If the client is not able to pay the entire amount at once, some firms provide goods and services to a team of their craftsmen in installments.
Window business, by the way, is a profitable business: for example, win a tender for glazing high-rise buildings or a housing estate under construction - it's like hitting the jackpot in a casino. The profit of the company can be estimated in hundreds of thousands of dollars.
If you are planning to replace or put in new windows, you need to look into the installation process. It all depends on how you will install the windows: either with your own hands, or by attracting a third-party company. To make the dismantling and installation of the structure, it takes about 4 hours if you do not have experience in this matter. For a company employee who does this often, such work will take no time. more than an hour. But installing tilt-and-turn windows on your own requires building skills.
Complete set of window system
Before proceeding with the installation, it is necessary to understand the nuances and details. First you need to know all the names of parts and materials. The main bearing part is the frame. In the version of plastic windows, its production is carried out from a plastic profile, which can be single-chamber, two-chamber, etc. A special insert is placed in the center of the structure to ensure rigidity. IN plastic systems this insert is made of plastic, metal is used in metal-plastic ones.
The profile system is assembled from 2 or more chambers
In addition, the profile is divided into classes: premium, standard and economy. All profiles manufactured at the factory are subject to certain standards. If you want to make a choice in favor of good tilt-and-turn windows, take the standard class. By color, white windows are most common, but other colors can be used: wood effect, brown. Products from a color profile will be more expensive than white.
Components of a plastic window
Main element window block - frame The design of the plastic window includes the following details:
- frame - the main structural part;
- if you have a large window, most often it is separated by a vertical partition, there may be several of them - it all depends on the choice of design;
- the part that is motionless is called deaf, and the one that opens is called the sash;
- double-glazed windows can be with different properties, for example, tinted, energy-saving, reinforced, using an inert gas. In addition, they are single-layer, two-layer, three-layer or multi-layer - the choice is great;
- in order for the glasses to hold securely, they are pressed with a glazing bead, which is a thin plastic bar. For tightness, a rubber seal is used, most often black;
- fittings are always used - this is a special set of tilt-and-turn mechanisms that help open and close the doors and provide various functionality;
- in addition, seals are needed to ensure the tightness of the entire structure;
- on the inside of the frame, ventilated holes are made for drainage, which are covered with caps. The moisture formed during the temperature difference on the street and inside the room gets through them to the outside;
- another part of the design is the ebb - it is mounted outside, and the window sill is installed from the inside;
- parts located on the side of the frame are finished with slopes.
Is it possible to install the window yourself
There is an opinion that installing windows in a house or apartment is a rather complicated procedure. It must be said that this is not so. What do you need to know when installing? To perform these works, you do not need special professional tools and equipment, vast experience. The procedure includes two main points:
- dismantling of the old window block;
- installing a new window.
Dismantling the old window takes an average of 1.5 hours If we talk about the time required to complete the work, then the first stage will take about an hour and a half. Do-it-yourself window installation will take less than three hours. I must say that if, nevertheless, you decide to opt for the services of specialists, then you should require certain guarantees from them.
If you have installed tilt and turn windows yourself, this will void your warranty. In this case, it is necessary to purchase designs directly from the manufacturer, who has been working on the market for a long time, has good feedback from clients. If you decide to buy single-chamber or double-chamber windows in the winter, you can always count on a significant discount.
When a window is purchased from a company that carries out and installation work, then the customer has a guarantee for fittings of about 5 years. With self-installation, you can obtain a guarantee directly from the manufacturer, that is, at the place of purchase.
In order to install windows in brick house, cinder block, gas block or apartment, you first need to order a swing-out or blind design from the manufacturer, and this requires accurate measurements.
Step-by-step instructions for correct measurement
When you place an order, you will be required to specify the following dimensions: the width and height of the structure, the width and length of the slope and window sill.
Before ordering a window, it is necessary to correctly measure the design Before you start measuring, be sure to important point- what kind of opening do you have: with or without a quarter. Look carefully at the window opening: if the outer part is narrower, then you have a quarter opening in front of you. The measurement is carried out as follows: it is necessary to measure the narrowest part, it will be necessary to measure in several places, find the smallest value, add 3 cm to it. The height is indicated as it is. If your opening is even, then the measurements are done like this: after measuring the width, 3 cm is subtracted; having measured the height, minus 5 cm. Read the detailed article about.
Before measurements, you need to determine the type of window: with or without a quarter To determine the dimensions of the window sill, you need to add about 10 cm to the width of the opening inside the window. For low tide, the same is done, only along the outer part of the window. Everyone chooses the width for the window sill for themselves: it is better if it protrudes a little beyond the battery.
In addition, when placing an order, you need to decide which constituent parts your design will be completed: what options for two-, three- or single-leaf windows do you need, how they will open, on which side the capercaillie is located. Do not forget to decide on the type of fittings (handles, locks, ventilation mechanisms).
If you order several designs at the same time, then the width of all openings may be different, but the height must be the same, you must choose the smallest size. Please note that window openings can be located at different distances from the floor.. In apartments, from the floor to the window is about 80 cm, while on the balcony the windows can be from the floor. Accommodation in a private house can generally be any at the discretion of the owners.
Features of measurements for glazing balconies
To determine the width of the glass structure, it is necessary to measure in length that part of the balcony on which the balcony window will be installed, minus 7 cm from each side. This distance is required for mounting corner profile, to which the structures of the side elements of the balcony are attached. The height is calculated as the distance from the support to the roof on the balcony or loggia, while subtracting a tolerance of 3 cm for the gap.
How to take measurements of windows in a country house
To correctly measure the dimensions of the structure in a private house, knock out part of the slopes on both sides. Very often it turns out that the window opening is much larger than the window that is installed in it. This means that during the dismantling of the structure, a part of the materials that filled the space will be simultaneously removed.
Preparing to install a window structure
After you take out the old window, you will need to inspect the resulting opening, remove all parts that can fall off or collapse, if there are protruding elements, they should be knocked down. Then clean the opening from construction debris and dust. If there are large recesses, it is better to cover them with cement. You can also treat everything with soil.
Base needs to be cleaned prior to installation. Having finished working with the opening, you need to prepare a PVC window, the installation of which is to be. To do this, it is necessary to remove the window sashes, if it is deaf - double-glazed windows. If your frame has small dimensions, then you can install it without removing the double-glazed windows and sashes. The outer part of the frame should be freed from the film that protects it.
Installation Technology Guide
The finished plastic window is brought into the opening, placed on the support blocks and aligned horizontally. After that, using a level, the window is set vertically and fixed in this position with spacer blocks.
Installation of both blind windows and opening sashes is the same. There are two options for installing windows: with and without a structure. When applying the first option, holes are drilled through the frame through which anchor bolts are driven into the wall. This method is more complex and more reliable.
When installing a window by unpacking, holes are drilled in the frame and wall, where anchors are then driven in 
Places for anchoring anchors and support blocks If the installation is carried out without opening the frame, the window is fixed using special ones that are attached to the profile and then to the wall. This option is faster. However, it must be borne in mind that with significant wind loads, the frame structure may warp or it may sag. If you decide to mount on a plate, you should choose thick, wide options. Please note that if the region in which you live is characterized by a strong wind load or windows are to be installed at a height, then it is worth using the option of unbaking the frame.
Mounting on anchor plates 
There are nuances for placing a window in an opening. If the walls are made of foam blocks, bricks, cinder blocks, gas silicate or concrete, then the frame is placed in a depth of 2/3 of the internal thickness of the opening. If the walls are insulated with foam, then the fastening must be done to the insulation layer. When insulating and facing with bricks, a window is installed in the insulation zone.
It is very important to choose the correct installation depth The installation sequence must be followed:
- inserting the frame, expose it to the level, using support and spacer blocks;
- further attached to the wall;
- after installing the structure, it is necessary to assemble the window;
- then you need to check the normal operation of the shutters and all mechanisms, for this, open and close the window;
- after everything is checked, the sashes must be tightly closed and the gap around the structure must be sealed. For this, apply.
However, it must be remembered that in direct contact with the sun's rays and the external environment, the material loses its properties and collapses. To protect it, you need to create it, it can be a special film that needs to be glued on the outside and inside of the window. After the foam has dried, it is necessary to finish the slopes on both sides (external, internal) of the structure. You can open the window a day after blowing the gap with foam.
To be fulfilled correct installation both on windows and follow the simple rules:
- we mount the ebb from the outside into a special slot in the frame or fasten it to it with self-tapping screws;
- the window sill is installed as follows: it is necessary to cut it from the edges so that it fits in the width of the window opening and rests against the end of the support profile;
- the level is leveled with special pads, after which the space under the window sill is blown with foam or filled with mortar.
According to the principle of the description above, windows are installed on a balcony or on a loggia, in brick or concrete walls. However, keep in mind that the entire weight of the window structure will be borne by the parapet, so you need to strengthen it.
Mistakes you can make when installing windows
There are a number of points that you should pay attention to when installing the structure so that it has long term usage:
- it is impossible to install the window with glazing beads outward, as this reduces the burglary resistance of the structure, since the glazing bead can be easily pulled out and the double-glazed window removed;
- you need to carefully consider the alignment of structures to the level during the installation of the window, otherwise opening and closing the sashes will be difficult;
- be sure to protect the mounting foam from direct sunlight in order to avoid its destruction;
- the choice of fixing the frame structure only with mounting foam will be wrong: it is imperative to mount it to the wall, otherwise it may simply fall out.
By following all the installation rules, you can successfully mount window construction independently, and if you turn to professionals for services, you can control their work at any stage.
