Types of assembling a house from a bar. The technology of assembling the walls of a house or a bath from a building bar. Construction and insulation of walls and floors

Beautiful 2-storey house built of profiled wood. Such housing can be built in 1-2 seasons.

What kind of wood is better to buy?

You can build a wooden house at any time of the year, but it is best to buy wood in winter. Wood harvested in winter is denser and gives off moisture more evenly when it dries. Profiled timber is made mainly from coniferous trees, so the air in such a house will be saturated not only with a woody aroma, but also with natural antiseptics of the released resins. Walls have such a natural property as "breathing". Up to 35% of the air passes through the wood pores, ventilating the room. The phased construction of a house made of profiled wood begins with the choice of building materials.

What is treated wood

Ready assembled kit for building.

• profiled timber of natural humidity: length 6 m, the most common thickness is 150x100mm, 150x150mm and 200x200mm. The drying process does not stop until the house is built from this material. Whether this building material will lead or not in the process of shrinkage, no one can predict, moreover, cracks may appear on its surface. The shrinkage period takes from 6 months to 3 years;
• chamber-drying profiled timber: drying takes place in special drying chambers. However, this does not mean that the processed building material will not shrink, it will only shrink significantly less than wood of natural moisture content. In addition, "roasting" in the oven allows you to rid the wood of fungus, insect larvae and other biological muck.

For more information about this type of building material, see the video tutorial.

It's time to start talking about the step-by-step construction of a house from profiled timber.

Foundation

The beginning of construction is the foundation: a wooden house has a relatively small weight, so it is not at all necessary to build a massive capital foundation for it. Based on the soil indicators, the house can generally be placed on poles or piles.

This is often resorted to, since in this case the price of building a house from profiled timber will be slightly lower due to savings. However, most often they still build a strip foundation.

Attention to the video:

Bottom trim

During the lower strapping, a beam or log is laid on the foundation, on top of which the house is directly assembled. Before the strapping is performed, waterproofing from bituminous mastic and roofing material must be laid on the foundation. The log intended for strapping is very carefully, even in 2-3 layers, covered with an antiseptic composition.

Sometimes, on top of the antiseptic, the wood along the entire length, excluding the ends, is also treated with engine oil. The oil film prevents moisture from getting inside the wood.

What is the binding for?

If you are interested in the question of how to build a house from a profiled beam with your own hands, then you are probably wondering - why do you need a strapping at all? Wood and concrete, even waterproofed, have different thermal conductivity, so the place of their contact is most prone to decay.

Does the strapping beam need to be fixed to the foundation? Experts are divided on this issue. Some believe that it is necessary, otherwise the house may move. Others say that it is not necessary, because there have not yet been cases of a house “escape” from its pedestal. You decide.

Be sure to watch the proposed video on the topic of the article.

Laying floor joists

The material for the manufacture of floor lags is a profiled beam, a carriage (a round log sawn from two parallel sides), sometimes a 50 mm board folded in three layers. These are standard kits for building a house from profiled timber. Logs are stacked from each other at a distance of 60-80 cm, parallel to a short wall. If the length of the lag is not enough, it can be lengthened, then an additional support is constructed under the junction.

The logs serve as a frame for the floor, rough floors are laid on them (an unedged board of 15-50 mm is used), a heater and a finishing floor is already on top.

We continue to tell you how to build a house from profiled timber yourself.

Laying the first crowns

The first crown - it, like the strapping beam, must be very carefully treated with an antiseptic (however, machine working is not forbidden). When laying the first crown, do not rush, check with a rope that the lengths of the sides and diagonals match. And the level - the absence of skew.

Wall assembly

The walls are going crown by crown to the height specified in the project. Between the timber, do not forget to lay a tape insulation or tow, the crowns are interconnected by dowels. Particular attention should be paid to corner joints. The presence of drafts in the house depends on their quality.

Roof and ceiling

Of course, before you build a house from a profiled beam with your own hands, you have chosen which roof will cover your house. Ceiling bars, as a rule, accurately copy the location of the floor lag, boards, waterproofing, and insulation are laid. For the roof, a frame is made - rafters and crate. The density of the lathing depends on the material chosen for covering the roof.

Everything, the main work is completed, the house must go through the stage of shrinkage.

Finishing the house from profiled timber

After a year, the house is caulked, windows and doors are inserted, the final flooring, communications, external and internal wall decoration are made. By the way, it is best to treat the house from pests in the first three months after assembly (in case the tree was not treated before laying). See the video for more details.

Is it possible to build a house without insulation?

Is it possible to build a house from profiled timber without insulation?

I guess, yes. It all depends on the thickness of the wood used (for permanent residence it must be at least 180 x 200 mm), the climate in which the house is built, on what kind of operation is planned - seasonal or permanent.

How to assemble a house from a bar 150x150? Full overview of the issue. No experience anywhere

The embodiment and implementation of the idea of ​​\u200b\u200bhow to assemble a house from a 150x150 timber may be of interest to those owners of a plot or land who want to build a fairly fast pace and without involving specialized construction teams to build a not too bulky, usually one-story building.

Whether it is a summer house or a place for permanent residence, a bathhouse or an auxiliary utility room, the opportunity to perform many of the works on your own attracts.

But in order to start building a building from a bar, you need to clearly understand the plan and scope of work to be completed, so that later your project does not turn into another long-term construction due to lack of materials or insufficient funds.

How to assemble a house from a bar 150x150, provided that the site for construction has already been selected (the purchased plot of land was analyzed for heaving and the presence of groundwater, and soil samples were taken and its nature was determined)?

As a rule, everything starts with a project.

If the building is small and one-story, choosing it yourself (there is a lot of free information on the Internet) will save you quite a lot of money, since developing projects from scratch in the corresponding company costs a lot of money. Therefore, it is best to spend your time on planning, not money.

Foundation

The basis for the long life of any structure.

From what it will be, and how well it is thought out, sometimes very, very much depends. Usually, the foundation, subject to normal soils and not too uneven terrain, is chosen either as a self-leveling tape or piled concrete.

This will be enough to implement the plan. A self-leveling slab is both costly and does not justify material investments for such a not too heavy and massive one-story building.

How to make a strip foundation with your own hands has already been described in our other article, so we will not dwell on this step in detail, but rather we will immediately proceed to the assembly steps.

Advantages and disadvantages

I must say that timber is an environmentally friendly material, so for people who care about health and nature, it is just very suitable as a building material of choice.

In addition, a beam has significant advantages over a log: less material is needed for construction and it is better processed.

However, in the red- its susceptibility to helical deformation (which is successfully combated by the use of profiled material) and poor security of seams and joints, requiring additional processing.

Manufacturers have recently dried profiled material.

This procedure helps to avoid shrinkage after construction. There is also glued laminated timber - a high-tech material and geometrically stable, not subject to moisture.

Of this, although it costs more, and you need to try to build.

Walls

For the construction of walls, a timber 150x150 is taken, cut off at the corners of the laying. Everything should start from the bottom crown. This part of the building should be given the most attention.

But in the beginning, you need to think about waterproofing (if it didn’t fit during the pouring of the foundation).

Before laying the timber, it is necessary to lay roofing material with longitudinal fastenings with boards that are processed with bitumen.

One of the methods for creating a log house is half a tree. Pins are used here - special spikes - wooden or metal, designed to connect the bars.

Special holes are made, both in the corners and according to the length - a step is not less than a meter. The 1st crown is installed, and a fiber insulation is placed on top. In the future, the laying of subsequent crowns continues. Nagels are usually hammered starting from the 3rd row of the timber.

Another way to assemble is to connect along the length.

The correct technology for assembling a house from a bar

The length of the beam is 6 meters (standard). By a certain method, the ends of each of the bars are cut out so that they can be connected into a lock. Such a design from the third row must also be fixed with dowel spikes.

root thorn.

On the first beam you need to drive a spike. In the other, make a groove of the desired size. The angle of the log house is created when these parts come close. But they still prefer to collect the first crown half a tree. The entire structure is also connected with dowels.

Which assembly method to choose is up to you, based on your preferences and the characteristics of the building materials. And also it can directly depend on personal skills and abilities, if you are going to drive out a log house with your own hands.

Roof assembly

If the removal of the walls reaches an already certain design level, you can proceed to the construction of the roof.

This is a rather difficult process that is difficult to perform without preparation. The best option is a two-slope design.

Rafters are the backbone of any roof. Their fastening is carried out with staples and nails. When erecting, one should remember about laying down communications (for example, a gas pipe), as well as about arranging a chimney if a stove or fireplace is to be installed in the house.
Next, you need to lay a film on the rafters to isolate from steam, sew on slats for the counter-lattice, then - the crate itself.

The material from which the roof covering will be made is selected and installation is carried out. For example, if you took a metal tile, then our article with the appropriate title will tell you how to install it as a working surface of the roof.

Floor installation

The assembly of a log house from a bar will not do without the traditional installation of the floor, in which special care must be taken. Most often, the floor is made double, and an insulating layer is laid between its parts.

For the floor, an edged board is usually used, which is hemmed from below.

So that it does not come off in the near future, the stitches must be carried out evenly and accurately. A cranial beam will also be used for the floor. And its fastenings are made according to the lags. Finishing the floor cleanly can be done with modern coatings, and "antique", depending on the interior design of the room you have conceived.

Ceiling

• In a log cabin, the ceiling should consist of several layers, the installation of which seems mandatory.
• The lining, which is located inside and is mainly aesthetic characteristics.
• The vapor barrier layer, which is located next and serves to protect the beams from the penetration of air from the inside, to prevent rotting of the rafters.

Insulation, which will serve to ensure that warm air does not leave the building during frosts (it is located closest to the roof).

After its installation, the implementation of the idea of ​​​​how to assemble a house from a 150x150 timber can be completed, and you can proceed with the installation of windows and doors, interior and exterior decoration of a building built by yourself.

Raw materials of profiled timber

Profiled timber is usually made from timber pine, spruce, fir, larch or cedar. They are less prone to various tree diseases than deciduous ones, grow relatively quickly, have less weight and density. Of the hardwoods, GOST 11047 considers only aspen and birch suitable for the manufacture of wall beams, but with restrictions on the location in the log house: except for window sills, rafters and beams that form two lower crowns, i.e.

e. in places of greatest ingress of precipitation, condensation. From conifers, better products are obtained, impregnated with their own natural antiseptic - resin.

Coniferous beams are subdivided into grades 1, 2, 3 and 4 depending on the number and types of permissible wood defects: cracks, fiber inclination, heel, core, sprouting, fungal and biological lesions, warping, etc.

(Only the number of knots is not standardized).

Specific requirements for the quality of wood, dimensions and characteristics of lumber and products are given in the following standards:

Manufacturing technology of profiled timber

1. The log cleared of bark is planed from four sides, giving a square or rectangular shape in cross section.
2. Then, with profile cutters, several parallel recesses are cut along the entire length (the width and shape depend on the purpose).
3. As a result, a "groove-ridge" system is obtained on two opposite sides, which now become lateral and will be combined in the wall with the profiles of the lower and upper bars.

One or both front sides (“street” and “into the house”) can be flat or semicircular, imitating a rounded log.

The ribs on the outer front side are left in the form of a sharp rectangular edge or cut off with a slight slope. Such chamfers create additional protection of the joints from water ingress during rain or snowfall, accelerate its runoff along the wall.

After profiling, the beam is either immediately delivered to the consumer, or it first passes a special drying(in a drying chamber with hot steam), and in accordance with these distinguish between:

• Beam profiled natural moisture 82-87%
• Beam profiled dry no more 18-20%

The dimensions, like those of other types of timber, are prescribed in the standard 24454-80, starting from 100 mm in width.

The length varies from 2 to 9 m, the most common is 6 m.

In the manufacture of beams from wood with a moisture content exceeding 22% , allowances for shrinkage in width and thickness are provided in accordance with GOST 6782.1 for coniferous wood and GOST 6782.2 for hardwood. The higher the humidity of the timber, the longer they will dry out and the longer the shrinkage of the walls will last.

Possible measures to prevent cracks during lumber shrinkage:

• Build a house in autumn or winter, then cracks will appear less often and look smaller;
• When choosing a beam, give preference to a rectangular cross-section - in this case, only the wide side cracks, on a “square” beam a crack can go along any side;
• A small compensation cut made in advance on the beam will make it easier for internal stress to escape.

Characteristics of profiled timber

Advantages

• A complex profile and its high-precision execution ensures a snug fit of the bars and an almost solid structure;
• The assembly of walls is easier and faster than from non-profiled timber;
• The air and vapor permeability of a house made of solid timber is better than houses made of glued;
• Although the glue, which is necessarily used in the production of glued laminated timber, meets sanitary standards, it is still an artificial material, and natural solid wood looks preferable in terms of environmental friendliness;
• Due to the low thermal conductivity of wood, heating costs are reduced, low weight - the load on the foundation;
• A characteristic feature of profiled timber (especially dry) is its exceptional smoothness, achieved by the cleanliness of processing on high-tech equipment, so you can do without additional wall decoration;
• Profiled dry timber approx. 2-2,5 times cheaper than glued, but at the same time it is very close to it in terms of its technical characteristics: thermal insulation, shrinkage, speed and technology of building a house, aesthetics, etc.

Disadvantages of profiled timber

• Less durable and hard than glued;
• As on a conventional beam (simple section), cracks form due to drying, temperature changes, deformation can occur (first of all, this concerns a profiled beam of natural moisture, a dry beam cracks much less often);
• Despite the low thermal conductivity of wood, if the timber is less than 220 mm thick, wall insulation may be required.

Transportation

When ordering a house kit made of profiled timber, delivery to the construction site becomes, in fact, one of the (no less important) stages of the production process: the slightest damage will subsequently lead to a violation of the integrity of the wall.

Therefore, the quality of loading and unloading operations, compliance with the rules for packing and placing transport packages on the cargo platform determine the safety of each element, and then the accuracy and efficiency of assembling the future home.

For greater reliability, the bars are placed on pallets, wrapped with film and packing tape (GOST 19041-85).

It is better to transport heavy packages on vehicles equipped with manipulators to prevent falls, bumps and other dangerous situations during unloading.

Alexander Kiyaev Date: 2013-05-05

Questions and answers on the topic

No questions have been asked for the material yet, you have the opportunity to be the first to do so

A house made of profiled timber - beautiful without finishing

Houses made of profiled timber are one of the most common types of wooden housing. The features of the building material give them many advantages, which are manifested both during construction and during living.

MATERIAL
A profiled beam is a wooden beam (most often made of coniferous wood), processed on four sides on a special machine.

When assembling the house, the bars are connected according to the groove-comb system. Profiled timber has a smooth surface that does not require additional finishing.

In addition, it is more durable than a conventional timber, since it is made only from the middle part of the trunk. The material has low thermal conductivity (0.18-0.35 W/m3). Houses from it have numerous advantages.

ADVANTAGES
- A house made of profiled timber is easy and quick to assemble. This is due to the fact that the materials necessary for the assembly of the log house are supplied in kits, which include a beam already trimmed according to a specific project and equipped with connecting locks and holes for dowels.

- The connection of the timber does not allow water to flow into the walls, and this, in turn, prevents rotting.
— Since during the production of profiled timber, stress is removed from it from all four sides, there are much fewer cracks in the walls of a house made of it than in houses made of logs.

- In the manufacture of profiled timber, only natural raw materials are used, so houses made of it are classified as the most environmentally friendly housing.
- Machining gives the surface of the profiled timber a smooth and attractive appearance, so that the house does not need external finishing.

And this leads to direct savings in construction.
- Low thermal conductivity and tight connection of the bars with each other provide high energy-saving performance at home. It warms up quickly and retains heat for a long time. In addition, to provide warmth in the house, profiled timber will need less than rounded logs.

For example, a profiled beam with a section of 140x140 mm is equivalent in terms of thermal insulation to a log with a diameter of 240 mm, 190x190 mm - 320 mm and 240x190 mm - 420 mm.

To achieve the same thermal insulation profiled timber requires up to 40% less both in volume and cost than round logs, and it is almost two times cheaper than glued laminated timber.
- A house made of profiled timber, unlike a house made of logs, does not require caulking after shrinkage, which leads to cost savings both in material and labor.
“Unlike glued laminated timber structures, profiled timber houses constantly undergo natural air exchange due to the fact that the internal structure of the wood is not disturbed.

Even with the windows closed, there is always fresh air in the house. And this means that you do not have to buy an additional 22 air conditioner. The house itself maintains optimal humidity, oxygen balance and distributes heat, creating comfortable living conditions.
- The strength of the timber and the reliability of the connections ensures the stability of the structure.

FLAWS
- If the construction is carried out from a bar of natural moisture, then shrinkage of the structure necessarily occurs. Therefore, it is necessary either to let the house stand for one season before installing windows and doors, or to leave the so-called technological gaps. It is possible to avoid this when using dry profiled timber (15-18% moisture content).

o Despite the fire treatment, the wood is still a combustible material, so it is possible for the house to catch fire.
- Possible damage to the walls by rodents and insects.

The price of materials and work when assembling a house from profiled timber

CONSTRUCTION PROCESS
The first stage, from which the construction of a house begins, is the design.

Since each manufacturer of house kits has its own characteristics, it is advisable to take them into account already at the design stage. Therefore, it is ideal if the design is carried out in the same company that will build the house. Design costs 180 rubles/m2. Erection of the foundation Houses from profiled timber are placed, as a rule, on a strip foundation. If the soil moisture is such that the construction of a concrete base is impossible, screw piles are used as the foundation.

Piles can also be used if the house is on a slope.

Log house assembly
The crowns are fastened to each other with the help of dowels in a checkerboard pattern. To ensure the best heat-saving properties of a house in our region, it is recommended to use a bar with a section of 200 × 200 mm. A heater is placed between the crowns. Padding is left in window and door openings.

In order to avoid structural damage during shrinkage, retaining poles are supplied with jacks.

Roof and all
After the log house is ready, the rafter system, floor beams and roof are erected. If the structure is complex and there is a risk of damage during shrinkage, a temporary roof is made. After that, it is recommended to interrupt construction for one season so that the timber dries.

At the second stage, windows and doors are installed, engineering communications are carried out and wood is treated to protect it from the sun, moisture and insects. It is advisable to start heating smoothly to avoid stress in the tree.

Beam in profile

Profiled timber due to the clear dimensions and shape of the profile allows you to save on interventional insulation, interior and exterior decoration.

Tongue-and-groove joints between the beams prevent rainwater from entering the wall.

One of the most common materials in wooden construction is profiled timber.

During the production process, the timber blanks are given a clear size and a strictly defined standard shape.

MATERIAL
Profiled timber is most often produced from coniferous trees (pine, cedar, spruce, larch).

Profiled timber is made only from sound (located in the middle of the trunk) wood, since it has a stronger structure. This is due to the fact that in the middle of the trunk there is practically no sap flow, as well as a higher concentration of resin (in coniferous trees) or tannins (in deciduous trees). Coniferous trunks have fewer knots, and are also less prone to rotting and are easier to process.

The most popular material is pine, because it has the best value for money. Trees growing in colder regions have better building qualities: their wood is less damp and more dense.

PRODUCTION TECHNOLOGY
Profiled timber is made from edged timber with a moisture content of not more than 22%.

Before profiling, the material is kept for 3-5 months in a natural drying warehouse or in a drying chamber. The minimum section of the beam is 250 × 240 mm. With the help of a set of milling cutters, the workpiece is given the necessary shape, turned and chamfered from the corners. Then, spikes and grooves (profile) of a certain shape are cut along the entire length of the timber. Works are carried out using high-precision automated equipment.

DIMENSIONS
The material is produced with a section of 95×95 mm, 95×45 mm, 145×145 mm, 145×195 mm, 195×195 mm.

Length - 6 thousand mm. For the construction of the external walls of a house or a bath, a section of at least 145 × 145 mm is used, a smaller beam goes to internal partitions.

Advantages:
- environmental friendliness.

All assembly steps

No chemicals are used in the manufacture. Flame retardants and biocides, with which the timber is impregnated to protect against fire and biodestruction, are harmful to humans only at the time of processing. After drying, they have no effect on people and animals;
- low thermal conductivity (0.18-0.35 W / m3) with a low density (500 kg / m3).

Compared to other building materials, profiled timber is lightweight, but has better thermal insulation properties (see table). Due to the low coefficient of thermal conductivity, a house made of profiled timber heats up quickly and retains heat for a long time;
– optimal price / quality ratio. Profiled timber is cheaper than glued timber, but more expensive than edged timber (due to more labor-intensive production).

If we compare a wall made of profiled timber and a rounded log, then with equal thermal conductivity to the first
- aesthetic appearance.

Due to the fact that the material is additionally processed on the machine, the walls do not require either external or internal finishing. Therefore, houses made of profiled timber are often built in places with low average temperatures and high humidity: you can come to such a house in the cold season and quickly warm it up to a comfortable temperature;
- the ability to "breathe".

Walls made of profiled timber provide natural air circulation and its comfortable humidity, which favorably affects the well-being of residents;
- a strong connection that protects the walls from rainwater between the bars, which, in turn, prevents rotting.

Flaws:
- combustibility (treatment with flame retardants is required);
— exposure to adverse effects of atmospheric phenomena;
- susceptibility to biological damage (treatment with bioprotective agents is required);
- can crack when the structure shrinks (if the beam is not previously dried to at least 20%);
- additional insulation of the walls from the outside is required;
- after the construction of a house or a bath from a profiled beam, it is impossible to work on redevelopment or superstructure.

more on the topic:
What to build a wooden house?

bar
Solid wood houses
Wooden houses from beams against frame-panel

How to make a profiled beam yourself?

Every year, the assortment on the lumber market is expanding more and more. Building materials suitable for the construction of wooden houses are becoming more and more advanced and modern.

How to work with ordinary timber, which was not profiled from the very beginning? Especially considering how quickly it is being replaced by more modern counterparts, such as glued or profiled timber and others.

The least expensive in work is the most common edged timber. And today it is possible to perform beam profiling even with your own hands.

Profiled timber

Distinctive features

Profiled timber- This is a building material made of coniferous wood and having specific dimensions.

As a rule, pine, spruce or cedar is taken as the basis for the timber. If we look at the beam more closely, we can see that its inner side is planed very evenly, and the outer one has a semi-oval shape.

It happens that all sides of the beam are even.

Unlike the usual one, the profiled beam has grooves on the sides that allow the beams to be joined one to the other. This is done for better bonding of the bars to each other. An important advantage of profiled timber is its environmental friendliness, because glue is not used in its manufacture.

In addition, profiled timber is attractive to the mass buyer for its price and ability to retain heat, as well as ease and convenience of assembly, which, of course, is an important factor for those who are engaged in construction on their own.

With all the positive qualities of a profiled beam, like any other building material of wood origin, pores may remain on it.

Because of this, mold or fungus can gradually form on it. To avoid this, wood must be treated with special protective compounds.

When using wood as a building material high risk of cracking, which indicates its poor quality.

Over time, these defects can become more noticeable, and they have to be constantly monitored for the appearance of through cracks. On the profile beam, the probability of cracking tends to zero.

Independent profiling of a bar can be done in several ways.

This can significantly save your finances and get high-quality competitive building material. Some people think that this is impossible. However, practice shows that with the desire, time, patience and relevant experience, nothing is impossible.

Advantages of a do-it-yourself profiled beam

Of course, it is much easier and faster to buy ready-made building material, but the independent production of building materials in the form of profiled timber has not lost its relevance.

Self-made profiled timber can save tens of thousands of rubles. But it takes a lot of time.
2. By making a beam on your own, you can give it any geometric shape, which will allow you to further make it more densely stacked, and this, in turn, will ensure the absence of drafts.

In addition, being engaged in the production of timber, only you will be responsible for its quality, which means that you will be 100% sure of it.
3. Finished profiled timber walls do not require further finishing. Therefore, such laying of building material is important, which will hide the insulation. By making building material yourself, you can foresee this important point.
4.

With your own hands, you can ensure a higher quality of the connecting grooves, which will affect the density of the bars adjoining each other.

Which profile type should you choose?

When choosing the most suitable profile for you, you should first give an adequate assessment of your experience in the field of manufacturing building materials.

At first glance, it may seem that there is nothing complicated in the production of timber. However, some efforts still have to be made, spending a lot of time.

The easiest way is to opt for the profile of the simplest designs. In this case, you will not need to use any specialized tool, you will not need to do complex calculations.

On the basis of already existing standards developed for the main connections of wooden parts, profiled beams are made.

The calculation algorithm can be found in the available documents. It is possible to manufacture a profile of two types:

- profiling through the bar;
— profiling through triangles.

Before proceeding with the manufacture of a profile, it is necessary to calculate its dimensions.

Calculation is required for each section. The calculation algorithm can be taken from the existing GOST. When laying a beam from this category, it is necessary to use a heater with a thickness of at least five centimeters.

Do-it-yourself production of profiled timber

In the manufacture of profiled timber, you can use various methods.

The easiest will be to work with a manual milling cutter with a power of at least one and a half kilowatts. It is necessary to work with the tool using special nozzles.
In the presence of a simple profile, a cutter with a diameter equal to ten centimeters is used. With a complex profile shape, nozzles can be different.

How to assemble a house from a profiled beam

With such a tool, you can independently make a beam of any complexity, even with a D-shaped side. But in this case, you can not do without a grinder and a special electric planer.

The most important thing when working is to follow the calculations exactly, because the term “profiling” itself implies perfect cleanliness and dimensional accuracy.

The advantages of this method are:

- the exact end result, provided that the workpiece is of high quality, is achieved due to the accuracy of the milling cutter;
- with a good sharpening of the milling nozzle, no additional grinding is required.
In addition to the obvious advantages, this method also has its drawbacks:
- the high cost of the milling machine;
- the difficulty of selecting suitable nozzles, since they are not produced for all machines.

What can you use a circular saw for?

Another method for profiling a beam is carried out using improvised tools.

One such handy tool is a circular saw.

Its cost will be about five thousand rubles. And choosing the right tool is based on the brand of the manufacturer.

An important aspect when choosing a saw should be the ability to carry out cuts of different depths with it.

The advantages of this method are:
- the ability to control the accuracy of the dimensions of the cut;
- The end result is perfectly straight and smooth grooves.
The negative aspects of working with a circular saw are:
- shallow depth of cut;
- the inability to clean the groove;
- the need to change the tool settings after each operation performed;
- low speed of work.

It is most convenient to work with a circular in the manufacture of a triangular groove.
Both tools are allowed.

So, for example, to cut a rounded quarter, you can first use a circular saw, and then refine the fillets with a milling machine. It is better not to dispose of the remaining waste immediately, because they may be needed to connect the bars to each other.

Features of glued laminated timber

This type of beam is popular in the construction of private houses.

In its manufacture, modern technologies are used. Separate boards are cut out of coniferous wood, which are also called "lamellas". Then these boards are planed to perfect smoothness, and then glued with a special compound.

The finished workpiece is placed under a powerful press. The great advantage of glued beams is considered to be its length, which can reach 18 m.

In terms of strength, profiled timber is inferior to glued timber, since during its manufacture the strongest outer part of the tree is removed. While the additional strength of the glued beam is achieved by pressing and gluing. Thanks to these manipulations, glued laminated timber practically does not deform over time.
Although the price of glued beams exceeds the cost of its competitor by almost two times, which is due to the peculiarity of the manufacture of beams.

After buying a piece of land, the desire arises to build a house on it. Often, due to the limited budget, this remains only a wish. We will consider the independent construction of a small house without the help of specialists.

This will help you save a lot and realize your plans.

We will build a house from an unprofiled beam measuring 150x150 mm. This is a long-standing technology that gained wide popularity in the 70-80s of the last century, which inexperienced builders can easily handle.

So, in this article, you will learn how to build a house from a bar with your own hands, you will see a specific project of a log house measuring 6x4 m, you will learn how to lay and choose a foundation, build walls and a roof.

House project

Any construction begins with a project.

As we already wrote, this house project is 6 x 4 in size with an attic floor. A columnar foundation was chosen as the base. As you can see in the photo above, the house is sheathed with false beams. A metal tile was chosen as the roof.

Let's say right away that this house is not insulated and serves as a summer cottage. If you want to build a house from a bar for permanent residence, then you need to make a thorough insulation of the floor, roof, walls.

On our website there is an article in which the calculation of the thickness of insulation for walls is made. (link)

Below is a project of the house that you see in the photo.

Foundation

We wrote about various types of foundations repeatedly in the "Foundation" section.

We also said that for light structures made of timber, a columnar base is best suited, because it is the least expensive and least laborious. The columnar foundation discussed in the article "link" was chosen as the basis for this house from a bar.

You can also make other types of foundations, such as tape, pile, screw, shallow, slab, but they are all much more expensive.

As you can see in the diagram, 15 pillars need to be laid to build the box of this wooden house.

For the porch you need 2 more pillars.

We will not describe in detail all the nuances of such a foundation in this article.

Bottom trim

Immediately after the construction of the foundation, you can proceed with the installation of the lower trim. This is one of the stages at which many people make mistakes.

Since the house is built of timber, the lower trim has its own subtleties. To get started, look at the layout of the beam.

Now let's look at some points related to this stage. See the connection of the timber in one row a little lower in the chapter “Walls of the house”.

• Before laying the first beams on the pillars, you need to put two layers of roofing material, thereby making the waterproofing of the wood, which will protect the lower crowns from getting wet and rotting.
• All elements of the lower trim must be treated with antiseptics, since this part is most exposed to moisture rising from the surface of the earth.
• Pay attention to the boards nailed from the inside to the strapping beam.

  The size of this board is 150 x 50 mm. They serve as a ledge on which the floor boards will lie in the future.

• Internal partitions are made of timber 100 mm wide, but 150 mm can also be used

house walls

As we have already mentioned, the outer walls of the house are built from unprofiled timber with a section of 150x150 mm.

Between each bar there is a gasket in the form of a heat-insulating material. As such a material, felt or a more modern interventional insulation lnovatin is used.

For ease of installation, when laying the flax tape, it is shot with a construction stapler. The tape is taken slightly less than the width of the beam itself.

In order to prevent water from entering the interventional seams during rain, a chamfer is removed from the upper edge of the front part of the beam.

Now consider the connection of the beam to each other.

The beam must be interconnected not only in one row, but also in height.

Connection in one row

Several connections were used in the construction of this house. For this we use a chainsaw and a chisel. In more detail, this topic is discussed in the article "Methods for connecting timber"

Connecting rows

To fasten the crowns in height, round wooden dowels with a diameter of 20-30 mm are taken.

Let's consider this connection in more detail.

Nagels have long been used in wooden construction. You have probably heard of houses built without a single nail.

Do-it-yourself house made of profiled timber

In our case, wooden pins with a cross section of 20-30 mm are also used. Their length should be greater than the height of the beam. The maximum length is unlimited and depends on how long the drill you have.

Nagels are best bought on the construction market. Making them with your own hands is quite difficult and time consuming.

Main stages

You have made the strapping and it is time to build walls.

• A linen tape is rolled onto the lower strapping around the entire perimeter and everything is fixed with a stapler.
• Cuts are made in the next beam and a row is laid.
• After that, you need to fix the two rows together with the help of dowels.

  To do this, make a hole with a drill and hammer the dowel. If your drill is longer, then you can first lay three or more rows, and then drill everything together.

• The height of the dowel must be a multiple of the height of the beam. In our case, it can be 15 cm, 30 cm, 45 cm, etc.

Important. The holes in the timber should be slightly wider than the diameter of the dowel. The height of the hole is also made more by a couple of centimeters.

This is necessary so that, with the inevitable shrinkage of the house, individual bars do not hang on the dowels.

Why such a multiplicity?

The thing is that for a reliable connection, it is necessary that the dowel is at the junction of the crowns in the middle. In addition, if the dowel sticks out of the upper crown, then for laying the next row, you will have to make holes in the beam in advance, which is not always convenient.

In what places to connect the walls of the house with dowels?

• The walls of the timber are connected with dowels every 1-1.5 m.
• There must be a connection in the corners and at the junction of the walls.
• Pins should also be installed near window and door openings at a distance of 15 cm.

Roof truss system

There are various options for the truss system.

We will consider the most simple and understandable, in our opinion, option and give a brief instruction. In more detail, all the nuances of building a roof, including the truss system, see the section of the same name.

Everything must be done in the order indicated below.

1. We lay seven boards with a length of 6 m and a section of 150 x 50 mm on the end at equal distances and fasten them with self-tapping screws or nails to the walls

We make temporary flooring from boards to facilitate further work

3. We construct an auxiliary structure and install a ridge run. This will greatly facilitate the task of laying the rafters.

4. We install rafters in the amount of 7 pieces on each side. To do this, we use boards 4.5 m long with a section of 150 x 50 mm.

We attach the lower part of the rafters to the wall and the boards that we laid in the first paragraph. These boards serve not only as a base for the floor of the second floor, they are also puffs for the rafters, which gives the whole structure greater rigidity.

How to attach the rafters to the Mauerlat, read the article (link).

6. We connect the upper part of the truss system lying on the ridge, as shown in the diagram

We make a crate for the subsequent roof. What will be the crate, continuous, at intervals, what material to make it depends on the type of roof. Various options for roofing can be found in the "Roof" section of our website.

In this project, the crate was made from unedged boards 25 mm thick in increments of about 5 cm.

8. We build a frame for further sheathing of the pediment, not forgetting where the windows will be located

We install metal tiles and remove the auxiliary structure made in the 3rd paragraph.

floors

Since this log house was built for summer living, the floors and roof are not insulated. In this project, a 45 mm thick tongue-and-groove board was used for the floor of the first and second attic floors, which was laid along the length of the house.

If you go to insulate the floors, then you can find out how to do it yourself in the article "link".

Wait for the continuation of this article in which we will look at how to install windows and doors in a wooden house and install a truss system.

We hope this article was useful to you and you will build your first house from a bar with your own hands.

It is possible to build a log house from a bar for the purpose of both permanent residence and temporary. The log house is built from a building material such as timber, and glued is also possible. If you plan to live permanently in a house made of timber, then the building material must be planed, and if for a temporary one, it is not necessary. In any case, the beam is laid with the planed side inward.

Scheme of types and cross sections of the beam.

Features of log cabins from a bar

Assembling the beams with your own hands, unlike log walls, should be done directly on the finished tape-type foundation. Houses or log cabins built of timber necessarily shrink, which excludes the laying of walls immediately after the construction of the house. Usually they wait at least about a year or two years to lay high-quality walls that will last a long time. A building material such as timber has only positive characteristics.

Figure 1. Scheme of assembly of shields for the base.

You can use profiled timber, saving on finishing materials. A timber can retain moisture in its structure for a long time, so the shrinkage of a built house takes a long time. It is not necessary to erect a log house alone, it is necessary to invite an assistant. The process of building a house from a bar with your own hands is not difficult.

To build a high-quality log house, be sure to use wooden dowels, which are easy to make with your own hands. For this purpose, ordinary boards or their trimmings are used, which remain after performing any work, for example, related to the installation of the crate. It is better to perform pins from harder scraps of boards; for this, they are trimmed on one side with a saw. Then they are sawn into boards having a width of 120 mm, the main thing is that they turn out to be even.

How to lay the foundation for a log house from a bar

The principles of the strip foundation

Figure 2. Scheme of arranging the foundation with ventilation.

The first step in the construction of a beam is laying the foundation. Before performing work, a soil analysis is carried out at the construction site, which is reduced to geological research related to finding the level of groundwater and determining the soil composition.

Related article: Interior in green tones

For each type of terrain with a certain soil composition, special types of foundations are provided that will serve for decades, and the presence of groundwater will not have a devastating effect on them. Before starting to lay the foundation for a log house, it is necessary to dig a trench for the future structure. This is due to the removal of the fertile soil layer. First, sand is poured into the trench, which is compacted by filling it with water. After that, a stone is poured into the trench to begin reinforcing the foundation.

It is possible to reinforce with reinforcing bars both at the top of the foundation and at the bottom. This will give the highest strength to the entire future structure of the log house. Reinforcement is carried out using concrete, if you do it yourself in a concrete mixer, it will not cost as much as if you buy ready-made concrete in a hardware store. Delivery of concrete is carried out by such a type of transport as a mixer truck, and it can only enter areas with the largest area, otherwise the concrete will have to be unloaded in another way.

The best option would be to use a concrete mixer installed on the site. This will allow you to independently prepare a concrete mortar for reinforcing the foundation, but the quality of the composition will not be as high as that of ready-made concrete. Reinforcement is laid at the bottom of the trench with sand and stones, and then this space is poured with concrete. The entire foundation tape, if it is tape, is poured with concrete to ground level. The foundation can also be arranged using formwork, and a columnar type of foundation is also suitable for a certain composition of the soil.

Figure 3. Scheme of the reinforcement cage for the foundation.

When using a concrete mixer, it should not be closed in the place where its engine is located, since a constantly circulating air is required to cool it after and during operation. Before the construction of a log house from a bar after the foundation is complete, it should take from a week to a month for the structure to fully stand.

For a certain type of soil, for example, swampy, it will be necessary to make a spatial frame. Only after that formwork is created and a concrete solution is poured into it. If the foundation is laid in warm weather, then its surface must be laid out with sawdust or other material, for example, moss, roofing material. You can simply fill it with water. The thickness of the formwork boards should be about 40 mm. It is necessary to choose boards for the formwork of the required height and length.

Related article: Plastic floor plinth: advantages, features, installation

Foundation plinth device

The initial size of the shields is usually taken as the distance between the center lines of the base. The shields are assembled directly on the ground using special linings. The assembly diagram of the shields for the base is shown in fig. 1. Shields with a smooth side should be facing the inside of the plinth.

In the foundation basement, special windows for ventilation should be provided, which are located at a distance of 15-20 cm from the ground surface. They are located on opposite sides of the basement structure, each opposite the other. To create them, you can use asbestos-cement pipes adjacent to the ends of the shields, as shown in Fig. 2. This position of the pipes will allow you not to fill the ventilation holes with concrete.

Figure 4. Methods for joining a beam.

The reinforcement frame of the base is located in the upper part, this is shown in fig. 3, then the concrete screed is poured. Reinforcing bars should be laid in an overlapping manner, tying them with wire.

In this way, you can get a rigid structure that is firmly connected to the foundation of the future structure. Starting to pour the concrete solution into the formwork, on the shields you should mark the pouring line from above. When the base of the log house is ready, they begin to lay the first crown.