From sheet getinax with a thickness of 1.5-2 mm, a board is made right size, then a plate of copper foil with a thickness of not more than 0.1 mm is cut out according to the size of the board. One side of the getinax, as well as the foil, is cleaned with a fine sandpaper so that they become rough (while putting the foil on the glass), then degreased (washed with alcohol, acetone or ether), dry well and lubricate the foil and getinax with a thin layer of BF-2 glue and dry in air (approximately 10 minutes), after which a second layer of glue is applied and the foil is applied to the getinax, making sure that there are no air bubbles between the foil and the getinax. Getinaks with glued foil is clamped between two metal plates, and two or three sheets of whatman paper must be laid between the foil and the metal plate.
Clamps or screws can be used as a clamp, for which holes are drilled along the edges of the metal plates. The package assembled in this way is kept for 1 hour at room temperature, and then for 1.5-2 hours at a temperature of 100-150 ° C. If the size of the workpiece is small, then the package can be pressed against the ironing surface of an electric iron with a thermostat.
If the workpiece area is large, then the assembled package is placed horizontally, so that the plate to which the foil is pressed is on top, and a hot iron is placed on it. After holding at high temperature the package must cool down to room temperature, then take out the foil getinax.
If you disassemble the uncooled package, then the foil getinax can be very warped.
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Printed circuit board- this is a dielectric base, on the surface and in the volume of which conductive paths are applied in accordance with electric circuit. The printed circuit board is designed for mechanical fastening and electrical connection between each other by soldering the conclusions of electronic and electrical products installed on it.
The operations of cutting a workpiece from fiberglass, drilling holes and etching a printed circuit board to obtain current-carrying tracks, regardless of the method of drawing a pattern on a printed circuit board, are performed using the same technology.
Manual application technology
PCB tracks
Template preparation
The paper on which the PCB layout is drawn is usually thin and for more accurate drilling of holes, especially when using a manual homemade drill so that the drill does not lead to the side, it is required to make it denser. To do this, you need to glue the printed circuit board pattern onto thicker paper or thin thick cardboard using any glue, such as PVA or Moment.
Cutting a workpiece
A blank of foil-coated fiberglass of a suitable size is selected, a printed circuit board template is applied to the blank and outlined around the perimeter with a marker, a soft simple pencil, or drawing a line with a sharp object.
Next, fiberglass is cut along the marked lines using metal scissors or cut with a hacksaw. Scissors cut faster and no dust. But it must be taken into account that when cutting with scissors, fiberglass is strongly bent, which somewhat worsens the strength of gluing copper foil, and if re-soldering of the elements is required, the tracks may peel off. Therefore, if the board is large and with very thin tracks, then it is better to cut it off with a hacksaw.
A printed circuit board pattern template is glued onto the cut-out blank using Moment glue, four drops of which are applied to the corners of the blank.
Since the glue sets in just a few minutes, you can immediately start drilling holes for radio components.
Hole drilling
It is best to drill holes using a special mini drilling machine with a 0.7-0.8 mm carbide drill. If mini drilling machine not available, you can drill holes with a low-power drill with a simple drill. But when working with a universal hand drill the number of broken drills will depend on the hardness of your hand. One drill is definitely not enough.
If the drill cannot be clamped, then its shank can be wrapped with several layers of paper or one layer sandpaper. It is possible to wind tightly coil to coil of a thin metal wire on the shank.
After drilling is completed, it is checked whether all holes have been drilled. This is clearly visible if you look at the printed circuit board through the light. As you can see, there are no missing holes.
Drawing a topographic drawing
In order to protect the places of the foil on the fiberglass, which will be conductive paths, from destruction during etching, they must be covered with a mask that is resistant to dissolution in an aqueous solution. For the convenience of drawing tracks, it is better to pre-mark them with a soft, simple pencil or marker.
Before marking, it is necessary to remove traces of Moment glue, which glued the printed circuit board template. Since the glue has not hardened much, it can be easily removed by rolling it with your finger. The surface of the foil must also be degreased with a rag by any means, for example, acetone or white alcohol (the so-called purified gasoline), you can use any detergent for washing dishes, such as Ferry.
After marking the tracks of the printed circuit board, you can begin to apply their pattern. Any waterproof enamel is well suited for drawing tracks, for example, alkyd enamel of the PF series, diluted to a suitable consistency with a white spirit solvent. You can draw tracks different tools- a glass or metal drawing pen, a medical needle and even a toothpick. In this article, I will show you how to draw PCB tracks using a drawing pen and a ballerina, which are designed to be drawn on paper with ink.
Before there were no computers and all the drawings were drawn simple pencils on whatman paper and then transferred with ink to tracing paper, from which copies were made using copiers.
Drawing a picture begins with contact pads, which are drawn with a ballerina. To do this, you need to adjust the gap of the sliding jaws of the drawer of the ballerina to the required line width and to set the diameter of the circle, adjust the second screw by moving the drawer from the axis of rotation.
Next, the drawer of the ballerina for a length of 5-10 mm is filled with paint with a brush. For applying a protective layer on a printed circuit board, paint of the PF or GF brand is best suited, as it dries slowly and allows you to work calmly. NC brand paint can also be used, but it is difficult to work with it, as it dries quickly. The paint should lay down well and not spread. Before drawing, the paint must be diluted to a liquid consistency, adding a suitable solvent to it little by little with vigorous stirring and trying to draw on scraps of fiberglass. To work with paint, it is most convenient to pour it into a nail polish bottle, in the twist of which a solvent-resistant brush is installed.
After adjusting the drawer of the ballerina and obtaining the required line parameters, you can begin to apply contact pads. To do this, the sharp part of the axis is inserted into the hole and the base of the ballerina is rotated in a circle.
With the correct setting of the drawing pen and the desired consistency of paint around the holes on the printed circuit board, circles of perfectly round shape are obtained. When the ballerina begins to draw poorly, the remnants of dried paint are removed from the drawer gap with a cloth and the drawer is filled with fresh paint. to outline all the holes on this printed circuit board with circles, it took only two refills of the drawing pen and no more than two minutes of time.
When the round contact pads on the board are drawn, you can start drawing conductive tracks using a manual drawing pen. The preparation and adjustment of a manual drawing pen is no different from the preparation of a ballerina.
The only thing that is additionally needed is a flat ruler, with pieces of rubber glued on one of its sides along the edges, 2.5-3 mm thick, so that the ruler does not slip during operation and the fiberglass, without touching the ruler, can freely pass under it. A wooden triangle is best suited as a ruler, it is stable and at the same time can serve as a support for the hand when drawing a printed circuit board.
So that the printed circuit board does not slip when drawing tracks, it is advisable to place it on a sheet of sandpaper, which is two sandpaper sheets riveted together with paper sides.
If, when drawing paths and circles, they touched, then no action should be taken. It is necessary to allow the paint on the printed circuit board to dry to a state where it will not stain when touched, and use the edge of a knife to remove the excess part of the pattern. In order for the paint to dry faster, the board must be placed in a warm place, for example, in winter time to the heating battery. In the summer season - under the rays of the sun.
When the pattern on the printed circuit board is completely applied and all defects are corrected, you can proceed to etching it.
Printed circuit board drawing technology
using a laser printer
When printing on a laser printer, the image formed by the toner is transferred due to electrostatics from the photo of the drum, on which laser ray drew an image on paper. The toner is held onto the paper, preserving the image, only due to electrostatics. To fix the toner, the paper is rolled between rollers, one of which is a thermal oven heated to a temperature of 180-220°C. The toner melts and penetrates the texture of the paper. After cooling, the toner hardens and adheres firmly to the paper. If the paper is heated again to 180-220°C, the toner will again become liquid. This property of the toner is used to transfer the image of current-carrying tracks to a printed circuit board at home.
After the file with the printed circuit board drawing is ready, you need to print it using laser printer on paper. Please note that the image of the printed circuit board drawing for this technology must be viewed from the side of the installation of parts! An inkjet printer is not suitable for these purposes, as it works on a different principle.
Preparing a paper template for transferring a pattern to a printed circuit board
If you print a printed circuit board pattern on ordinary paper for office equipment, then due to its porous structure, the toner will penetrate deeply into the body of the paper, and when the toner is transferred to the printed circuit board, most of it will remain on paper. In addition, there will be difficulties with removing paper from the printed circuit board. You will have to soak it in water for a long time. Therefore, to prepare a photomask, you need paper that does not have a porous structure, for example, photo paper, a substrate from self-adhesive films and labels, tracing paper, pages from glossy magazines.
As the paper for printing the PCB design, I use tracing paper from old stock. Tracing paper is very thin and it is impossible to print a template directly on it, it jams in the printer. To solve this problem, before printing on a piece of tracing paper of the required size, apply a drop of any glue in the corners and stick it on the sheet office paper A4.
This technique allows you to print a printed circuit board pattern even on the thinnest paper or film. In order for the toner thickness of the pattern to be maximum, before printing, you need to configure the “Printer Properties” by turning off the economical printing mode, and if this function is not available, then select the roughest type of paper, such as cardboard or something like that. It is quite possible that you will not get a good print the first time, and you will have to experiment a little, choosing the best print mode for a laser printer. In the resulting print of the pattern, the tracks and contact pads of the printed circuit board must be dense without gaps and smearing, since retouching on this technological stage useless.
It remains to cut the tracing paper along the contour and the template for the manufacture of the printed circuit board will be ready and you can proceed to the next step, transferring the image to the fiberglass.
Transferring a pattern from paper to fiberglass
Transferring the PCB pattern is the most critical step. The essence of the technology is simple, paper, with the side of the printed pattern of the tracks of the printed circuit board, is applied to the copper foil of the fiberglass and pressed with great effort. Next, this sandwich is heated to a temperature of 180-220°C and then cooled to room temperature. The paper is torn off, and the pattern remains on the printed circuit board.
Some craftsmen suggest transferring a pattern from paper to a printed circuit board using an electric iron. I tried this method, but the result was unstable. It is difficult to simultaneously heat the toner to the desired temperature and evenly press the paper against the entire surface of the printed circuit board when the toner solidifies. As a result, the pattern is not completely transferred and there are gaps in the pattern of PCB tracks. It is possible that the iron did not heat up enough, although the regulator was set to the maximum heating of the iron. I did not want to open the iron and reconfigure the thermostat. Therefore, I used another technology that is less laborious and provides a 100% result.
On a printed circuit board cut to size and degreased with acetone, a blank of foil fiberglass was glued to the corners of a tracing paper with a pattern printed on it. On top of the tracing paper put, for a more uniform pressure, heels of sheets of office paper. The resulting package was placed on a sheet of plywood and covered with a sheet of the same size on top. This whole sandwich was clamped with maximum force in the clamps.
It remains to heat the made sandwich to a temperature of 200 ° C and cool. An electric oven with a temperature controller is ideal for heating. It is enough to place the created structure in a cabinet, wait for the set temperature to reach, and after half an hour remove the board for cooling.
If there is no electric oven available, then you can use gas oven by adjusting the temperature with the gas supply knob according to the built-in thermometer. If there is no thermometer or it is faulty, then women can help, the position of the regulator knob, at which pies are baked, will do.
Since the ends of the plywood were warped, just in case, I clamped them with additional clamps. to avoid this phenomenon, it is better to clamp the printed circuit board between metal sheets 5-6 mm thick. You can drill holes in their corners and clamp the printed circuit boards, tighten the plates with screws and nuts. M10 will be enough.
After half an hour, the design has cooled down enough for the toner to harden, the board can be removed. At the first glance at the removed printed circuit board, it becomes clear that the toner transferred from the tracing paper to the board perfectly. The tracing paper fit snugly and evenly along the lines of the printed tracks, the rings of the pads and the marking letters.
The tracing paper easily came off almost all tracks of the printed circuit board, the remains of the tracing paper were removed with a damp cloth. But still, there were gaps in several places on the printed tracks. This can happen as a result of uneven printing of the printer or remaining dirt or corrosion on the fiberglass foil. Gaps can be filled with any waterproof paint, nail polish or retouched with a marker.
To check the suitability of a marker for retouching a printed circuit board, you need to draw lines on paper with it and moisten the paper with water. If the lines do not blur, then the retouching marker is suitable.
Etching a printed circuit board at home is best in a solution of ferric chloride or hydrogen peroxide with citric acid. After etching, the toner from the printed tracks is easily removed with a swab dipped in acetone.
Then holes are drilled, conductive paths and contact pads are tinned, and radioelements are soldered.
This form was taken by a printed circuit board with radio components installed on it. The result was a power supply and switching unit for an electronic system that complements an ordinary toilet bowl with a bidet function.
PCB etching
To remove copper foil from unprotected areas of foil fiberglass in the manufacture of printed circuit boards at home, radio amateurs usually use chemical method. The printed circuit board is placed in an etching solution and due to chemical reaction copper, unprotected by the mask, dissolves.
Etching solution recipes
Depending on the availability of components, radio amateurs use one of the solutions shown in the table below. Etching solutions are listed in order of popularity for their use by radio amateurs in the home.
| Solution name | Compound | Quantity | Cooking technology | Advantages | Flaws |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Hydrogen peroxide plus citric acid | Hydrogen peroxide (H 2 O 2) | 100 ml | Dissolve citric acid and table salt in a 3% hydrogen peroxide solution | Availability of components, high pickling rate, safety | Not stored |
| Citric acid (C 6 H 8 O 7) | 30 g | ||||
| Salt (NaCl) | 5 g | ||||
| Aqueous solution of ferric chloride | Water (H2O) | 300 ml | IN warm water dissolve ferric chloride | Sufficient etching rate, reusable | Low availability of ferric chloride |
| Ferric chloride (FeCl 3) | 100 g | Hydrogen peroxide plus hydrochloric acid | Hydrogen peroxide (H 2 O 2) | 200 ml | Pour 10% hydrochloric acid into a 3% hydrogen peroxide solution | High pickling rate, reusable | Requires high precision |
| Hydrochloric acid (HCl) | 200 ml | ||||
| Aqueous solution of copper sulphate | Water (H2O) | 500 ml | IN hot water(50-80 ° C) dissolve table salt, and then blue vitriol | Component Availability | The toxicity of copper sulfate and slow etching, up to 4 hours |
| blue vitriol(CuSO4) | 50 g | ||||
| Salt (NaCl) | 100 g | ||||
Etch printed circuit boards in metal utensils not allowed. To do this, use a container made of glass, ceramic or plastic. It is allowed to dispose of the spent pickling solution into the sewer.
Etching solution of hydrogen peroxide and citric acid
A solution based on hydrogen peroxide with citric acid dissolved in it is the safest, most affordable and fastest working. Of all the listed solutions, by all criteria, this is the best.
Hydrogen peroxide can be purchased at any pharmacy. Sold in the form of a liquid 3% solution or tablets called hydroperite. To obtain a liquid 3% solution of hydrogen peroxide from hydroperite, you need to dissolve 6 tablets weighing 1.5 grams in 100 ml of water.
Citric acid in the form of crystals is sold in any grocery store, packaged in bags weighing 30 or 50 grams. Table salt can be found in any home. 100 ml of pickling solution is enough to remove 35 µm thick copper foil from a 100 cm2 printed circuit board. The spent solution is not stored and cannot be reused. By the way, citric acid can be replaced with acetic acid, but because of its pungent smell, you will have to pickle the printed circuit board in the open air.
Pickling solution based on ferric chloride
The second most popular pickling solution is an aqueous solution of ferric chloride. Previously, it was the most popular, since on any industrial enterprise ferric chloride was easy to get.
The etching solution is not picky about the temperature, it etchs rather quickly, but the etching rate decreases as the ferric chloride in the solution is consumed.
Ferric chloride is very hygroscopic and therefore quickly absorbs water from the air. As a result, a yellow liquid appears at the bottom of the jar. This does not affect the quality of the component and such ferric chloride is suitable for the preparation of an etching solution.
If the used solution of ferric chloride is stored in an airtight container, then it can be used repeatedly. To be regenerated, it is enough to pour iron nails into the solution (they will immediately be covered with a loose layer of copper). Leaves hard-to-remove yellow spots upon contact with any surface. At present, a solution of ferric chloride for the manufacture of printed circuit boards is used less frequently due to its high cost.
Etching solution based on hydrogen peroxide and hydrochloric acid
Excellent pickling solution, provides high pickling speed. Hydrochloric acid, with vigorous stirring, is poured into a 3% aqueous solution of hydrogen peroxide in a thin stream. Pouring hydrogen peroxide into acid is unacceptable! But due to the presence of hydrochloric acid in the etching solution, great care must be taken when etching the board, since the solution corrodes the skin of the hands and spoils everything it gets on. For this reason, an etching solution with hydrochloric acid at home is not recommended.
Etching solution based on copper sulphate
The method of manufacturing printed circuit boards using copper sulphate is usually used if it is impossible to manufacture an etching solution based on other components due to their unavailability. Copper sulfate is a pesticide and is widely used for pest control in agriculture. In addition, the PCB etching time is up to 4 hours, while it is necessary to maintain the temperature of the solution at 50-80°C and ensure that the solution is constantly changed at the etched surface.
PCB etching technology
To etch the board in any of the above etching solutions, glass, ceramic or plastic tableware, for example from dairy foods. If there was no suitable container size at hand, then you can take any box from thick paper or cardboard of a suitable size and line its inside plastic wrap. An etching solution is poured into the container and a printed circuit board is carefully placed on its surface with a pattern down. Due to the forces of the surface tension of the liquid and the low weight, the board will float.
For convenience, you can glue a cork from plastic bottle. The cork will simultaneously serve as a handle and a float. But there is a danger that air bubbles form on the board and in these places the copper will not corrode.
To ensure uniform etching of copper, you can put the printed circuit board on the bottom of the tank with the pattern up and periodically shake the bath with your hand. After a while, depending on the pickling solution, areas without copper will begin to appear, and then the copper will completely dissolve on the entire surface of the printed circuit board.
After the final dissolution of copper in the pickling solution, the printed circuit board is removed from the bath and thoroughly washed under running water. running water. The toner is removed from the tracks with a rag soaked in acetone, and the paint is well removed with a rag soaked in a solvent that was added to the paint to obtain its desired consistency.
Preparing the printed circuit board for the installation of radio components
The next step is to prepare the printed circuit board for the installation of radio elements. After removing the paint from the board, the tracks must be processed in a circular motion with a small sandpaper. You don’t need to get carried away, because the copper tracks are thin and can be easily grinded off. Just a few passes with a low-pressure abrasive is sufficient.
Further, the current-carrying tracks and contact pads of the printed circuit board are covered with an alcohol-rosin flux and tinned with soft solder with an electric soldering iron. so that the holes on the printed circuit board are not tightened with solder, you need to take a little of it on the soldering iron tip.
After completing the manufacture of the printed circuit board, all that remains is to insert the radio components into the intended positions and solder their leads to the sites. Before soldering, the legs of the parts must be moistened with alcohol-rosin flux. If the legs of the radio components are long, then they must be cut with side cutters before soldering to a protrusion length of 1-1.5 mm above the surface of the printed circuit board. After completing the installation of the parts, it is necessary to remove the remains of rosin using any solvent - alcohol, white spirit or acetone. They all successfully dissolve rosin.
To implement this simple scheme capacitive relay it took no more than five hours from laying out traces for the manufacture of a printed circuit board to creating a working sample, much less than the layout of this page.
It so happened that I needed a frame with rewind. The voltage converter broke down in the charger - the transformer failed. He was left without windings and, in addition, the frame also burst. On the market, I did not even find similar ones suitable for the ones I need. So, I had to make a completely new one.
How did you get out of this difficult situation?
Of course buy fiberglass I wasn't lucky in that situation. Using a paper counterpart is unrealistic. Here it dawned. It is necessary to create fiberglass yourself. In addition, it is so nice to reproduce the lessons in the ship modeling circle in field conditions. I immediately remembered the "epoxy" and how they did it plastic models courts. Believe it or not, I succeeded the first time.
So, in order to form a sheet of fiberglass (we will denote it ST), you need a couple of sheets of plexiglass. I'll tell you right now that it doesn't stick. epoxy resin. Also, let a building hair dryer be ready, but a regular one will do. Moreover, with such a unit, you can adjust the temperature of the air stream. However, we do not need a too warm thermal jet.
What will be the number and thickness of the layers of fiberglass, so will our ST sheet as a result. To show you the manufacturing process, I cut three pieces of fiberglass (Photo 1). So we will have a ST sheet, one centimeter and three tenths of a millimeter thick.
We will prepare several pieces of fiberglass of the required size. Let's prepare the glue. We will determine the amount of "epoxy" ourselves. We lay out a sheet of plexiglass on the table and pour a little resin on the material. It must be distributed so that it matches the size of the fiberglass patches. Place a piece of fabric on top. We turn on the hair dryer. Under the jets warm air fiberglass is well tarred. If there is not enough resin, add it. Having finished thoroughly soaking this piece, lay out the next flap. At the end of the phased exfoliation, we cover our workpiece with another piece of plexiglass.
Always look for air bubbles forming inside our layers. (For clarity, refer to photo #2).
Can be used instead of clamps makeshift cargo: fine sand and a tarpaulin bag in the form of a standard pillow to fit about twenty kilograms of sand into it. For accuracy, I will indicate the parameters of the bag: fifty by fifty cm. Please note that if the bag is made of another material, then the sand must be washed, otherwise unnecessary dust will form.
You will see our ST sheet in the third photo. It turned out 150 × 180mm. Further from it I created both transformer and throttle frames and even cases for my models.
Homemade textolite
Here I will tell you how to make textolite with your own hands. The material is very helpful. It is durable, does not absorb moisture, durable, easy to process.
In fact, it is plastic, but plastic is reinforced with fabric fibers, which gives not only additional strength, but also beauty, that's exactly what we will try to take care of the beauty of the resulting material.
So what textolite consists of is glue (epoxy resin) and cotton fabric. It occurred to me to get confused by the manufacture of textolite when I was looking for something to make a handle for a knife, I came across a piece of ordinary factory textolite, I think a good handle will come out, but the color and texture didn’t suit me at all, so I decided to try to make something prettier
Epoxy resin is easy to buy, the first fabric that came to my mind was old jeans, plus they were still blue on one side and white on the other, then I got an interesting pattern similar to a tree pattern.
I took the jeans, cut them into pieces of the size I needed, then spread cling film on the table, cut 2 wooden bars then to squeeze the future textolite between them, wrapped them in cling film, THEN put on disposable medical rubber gloves and began to prepare epoxy glue. I cooked epoxy in a regular tin can. Most people ignore the instructions on the epoxy packaging. They try to add more hardener, more, so that it hardens faster, no one considers it necessary to heat it up at all, however, with an increase in the amount of hardener, the glue, although it hardens faster, becomes stone, more brittle, less elastic, which means strength suffers, besides the slower curing will take place better glue soak the fabric. Now about heating - the heated glue components are not only easier to remove from the bottles and mix, the heated glue will better impregnate the fabric. in general, it is desirable to keep the glue in a SLIGHTLY heated state during the gluing process. I will say right away that I underestimated the absorbency of the fabric and I had to mix the glue 2 times, this is theoretically undesirable, because no matter how hard you try to accurately dose the components, the proportions will most likely be slightly different, and as a result, the properties of the final product will be slightly different, but in practice I don’t think so that it has any noticeable difference, but nonetheless.
Back to our canned epoxy
I took pieces of jeans one at a time, dipped them into a jar of glue, “squeezed” a little in the glue, passed it between my fingers to remove excess glue and put it on one of the bars wrapped in cling film. Clal wrong side to the wrong side, front to front, in my case this made the future drawing of the part larger and more distinct .. At the same time, we must try to ensure that there are no air bubbles between the flaps ..
In general, here you can turn on the fantasy to the fullest and use various combinations of fabrics, combinations of layers, you can try to soak anything. Imagine one of your household members walking around the house with the words "where are my favorite warm socks" and you, shrugging your shoulders with a satisfied look, twirl a knife with a handle made of homemade textolite in your hands and insert it into the sheath, which past life were someone's boots :)) Or, let's say, you can make a knife handle from some of your clothes, which has some symbolic meaning for you, but which you will never wear, leads a knife with a history, something like a talisman;)
Having laid the last flap, I pressed this whole "sandwich" with a second bar wrapped in film, additionally wrapped it with cling film on top and clamped it in a vise (in this case, excess epoxy will flow out, care must be taken not to dirty the vise and everything around) squeezed quite strongly, after which left alone for 12 hours. for compression, you can also use clamps or drill holes in the bars to tighten them on bolts, or make rings from strong rope and putting them on the edges of the bars, tighten them with a twist, using, say, two 150mm nails. In general, who has what opportunities and who is more comfortable.
After complete hardening, the textolite is ready for use in any project.
I got this handle
Reinforced with fabrics. Thermosetting synthetic resins play the role of a binding element. And it is not so important which textolite is considered. What it is is quite easy to understand even from the description.
Some parameters and properties
Depending on the nature of the fibers, textolites are divided into several groups.
- Basalt textolites based on
- Carbon textolites from carbon.
- Asbestos-textolites with asbestos fibers.
- Fiberglass from glass fibers of various types.
- Organotextolites from artificial and
- Actually textolites, the fibers here are cotton
There are other varieties. Twill, satin, linen - types of weave that distinguish the threads themselves. The surface density, thickness, number of threads per unit length in the direction of the warp and weft of the fabric, the structure and thickness of the thread or tow can be different. There is a special technology, thanks to which textolite is obtained. What it is, we have already found out.
If the interlayer strength is to be particularly high, multilayer fabrics are used. Sometimes there are products where the fibers are made from several types of materials.
What else to pay attention to?
The manufacturing technology, the quantity and properties of the binder, the characteristics of the fabric itself, the nature of the fibers are also important - parameters that determine what qualities the textolite itself will have. As for the production process itself, its basis is the layer-by-layer winding or laying out of fabrics, when a binder is applied to the mandrel according to the shape of the product. Foil textolite is produced in the same way. Next comes shaping. In addition, textolite plates, plates or sheets must be mechanically processed.
Diverse in the composition can be not only fabrics, but also connecting elements that play the role of impregnation for the filler. Thermosetting most often fulfill this role, foil textolite is no exception.
About the merits and other parameters
Exists whole line qualities inherent in such material as textolite. What it is is easy to understand from the description of its characteristics.
- Operating temperature range - from -40 to +105 degrees, if the current frequency is about 50 Hz, it is maintained
- Textolite is a good dielectric, which makes it indispensable assistant in the electrical and energy industries.
- Ease of machining.
- High strength.
- Small density.
- Low coefficient of friction.
Additional Information
Textolite sheet is used in many areas of life. It can be a structural, anti-friction, friction, electrical insulating, heat-insulating and radio engineering material.
In many ways, this is facilitated by the ability to easily endure mechanical loads, even quite serious ones. So it is especially widely used in the electrical engineering industry. On the basis of textolite are made various details with structural purpose.
Applications and new opportunities
Ornamental textolite is used for the production of rings and bushings. What it is, you can understand even without special dictionaries. You can also see this material in shock absorber panels and gaskets.
In gearboxes, in distribution mechanisms of various engines, in gearboxes, the presence of bevel and spur gears based on a material such as textolite is often noticeable. The price varies. Elements centrifugal pumps, turbines are textolite bearings. Textolite can successfully replace getinax as a material for the production of electrical insulating parts. Bases for printed circuit boards made of textolite are made in radio electronics. In addition, in modern tournaments, it is textolite that becomes the basis for the manufacture of weapons - its use is quite unexpected.
A little about brands
There is another kind of textolite, which is called asboplastic and is isolated separately. It is a fire-resistant and durable material that can withstand temperatures up to +250 degrees. Differs in chemical firmness, anticorrosive and electroinsulating properties. The type of binder and filler largely determines what characteristics this or that product will have. For example, materials made of anthophyllite asbestos give high acid resistance. The method of manufacture and the degree of filling can also have an impact on existing parameters. In each case, everything is determined individually, this should be followed separately.
