A primed canvas pasted on plywood or cardboard serves as a good basis for sketches. They take completely dry plywood or cardboard of sufficient thickness (3-10 mm) of the appropriate size and, after gluing their surface with a solution of wood glue, glue a canvas soaked in the same adhesive solution and slightly wrung out, smooth it, allow it to dry well and then prime it with one of the soil compositions applied to the canvas.
PAPER
Quite an interesting soft base. It is versatile and easy to use. Due to the paper's inherent absorbency, the ink on paper dries faster and becomes matte. The variety of paper textures makes it even more attractive to painters.
Paper is not recommended for serious oil painting because it is considered unstable. This is certainly a correct remark. But, nevertheless, works of small size are not paper basis can make a good impression. Of course, when using paper, basic precautions must be observed. Choose only high quality art papers. Use only 100% acid-free rag paper and pay attention to its density. The thicker the paper, the better.
Only rag paper should be considered the best paper for drawings with Italian pencil and sauce, since any other paper, including Alexandrian paper, designed specifically for drawing, easily loses its surface and becomes fleecy when rubbed for a long time with blending, rubber, etc. Which, of course, spoils the drawing.
For charcoal drawings, specially various grades of paper with a very rough and grainy surface are made. Paper glued with canvas is also produced.
Thick paper, as a base, requires some fairly simple preparation. A sheet of paper should be tightly glued onto cardboard (best with fish or wood glue), then glue the paper with fish glue, let it dry well and cover it with a thin layer of oily lead white. Cardboard must be stuffed on a stretcher. The paper prepared in this way serves good foundation for oil painting. Painting remains on it well and does not give cracks and breaks in the paint layer. A number of sketches made on thick Whatman paper pasted on cardboard have been excellently preserved for 80-100 years.
You can stick paper on canvas with starch paste, to which they add not a large number of wood glue.
When sizing paper on both sides, a 4-5% gelatin solution is used. Then the paper is pulled over the board, placing another sheet under it.
The composition of the gelatin primer for paper
Gelatin 100 g
Painting oil 200 g
Soap (baby) 10 g
Zinc dry white 300 g
Glycerin 15 g
After drying, the soil is tanned with formalin.
Most varieties of colored paper, with the exception of some yellow tones, quickly lose their color in the light, usually taking on yellowish tints; in some cases, however, the original tone passes into a new one.
Lovers of needlework and creativity often face the choice of the most suitable glue. Their choice on the market is very large, so when buying, you need to consider what material you have to work with.
For different techniques handicrafts, one or another option is most preferred. Some, for example, PVA, are universal and are suitable for gluing several materials popular among craftsmen at once. 
- PVA - the best choice for paper, plastic, fabric and foam. Also this best option for those who are going to crafts from threads and glue.
- Hot glue is the best choice for making crafts with fabric, glass, ceramic, wood, paper, plastic, foam.
- For a tree - the name speaks for itself. Only suitable for wood parts.
- Aerosol - well fastens paper, fabric, foam, plastic, organics.
- Superglue - although the manufacturer calls it universal and promises reliable bonding of almost all materials, in practice it is worth using it with glass, ceramics, metal, plastic, organics.
- Rubber - despite the name, it is suitable for gluing wood, fabric, paper, foam.
- Silicone - bonds plastic, glass, metal and ceramics.
- Epoxy - suitable for glass, ceramics, wood, plastic, metal and organics.
- Polyurethane glue holds wood, plastic, ceramics, metal, organics together.
And the glue gun for crafts is also very convenient to use.
It is non-toxic, does not have an unpleasant odor, and securely and quickly fastens parts.
He also:
- spends sparingly
- easy to use, even children can handle it,
- securely fastens parts,
- the seam is not afraid of moisture,
- The adhesive fills the voids and seals well.
Silicone glue appeared on domestic market recently, but quickly gained popularity. It is used for building and finishing works as well as arts and crafts.
Today, manufacturers offer two types of formulations - neutral and acetic. To create crafts, neutral sealants are used, which hold almost any material well.
To use the sealant, you will need a special gun into which a tube with glue is installed. With a sharp knife, cut off the tip of the spout, then wind the dispenser to control the flow. The agent is applied to a dry, cleaned surface.
Hot glue is inexpensive material to create beautiful original crafts. During use, be careful not to burn yourself, so children should use the material only under adult supervision.
Hot glue can be used to easily decorate tin boxes and jars, create beautiful kitchen accessories, and create Christmas tree decorations.
For these purposes you will need:
- thermal gun,
- newspapers,
- jars,
- gun tubes,
- lace pieces,
- leg-split.
We wrap a jar of coffee from below with thin twine, fasten beautiful lace. You can use this container for sugar or pepper.
A pistachio tin can be completely wrapped with twine. To do this, you need to put a few drops of glue on the jar and wrap the twine, and so on several times until the jar is completely wrapped in material. Now you can store coffee or tea in such a jar.
RELATED VIDEO
Another simple and beautiful craft- from an ordinary tin can. By using acrylic paint, hot glue and colored glass, you get a luxurious handmade vase.
To do this, the jar must be thoroughly washed, painted and dried. Next, glue the glass pieces (if not, then shells, pebbles or buttons). The hot composition will reliably hold any material, even dried pasta.
With it, you can decorate the lamp shade with homemade or artificial flowers.
Plywood - construction material, active use required by furniture, packaging and even the automotive industry. Wood veneer is used to manufacture this multilayer material. coniferous trees. Result - solid construction, which can be fastened with screws, nails and bolts, but most convenient option is glue.
Plywood laying methods
How to glue plywood to plywood? The most environmentally friendly is water-based glue. It is completely odorless, it can be diluted with water and used instead of a primer. Such styling requires additional fastening, and the main disadvantage is long drying.
The adhesive, which is based on a solvent, dries a little less - 3-5 days. In this case, it is necessary to pre-soak concrete screed special primer. The downside is the strong smell.
How to glue plywood to plywood and save time at the same time? This desire can be maximally satisfied by using it. It dries for about 24 hours and does not need dowel nails.
How to choose glue for plywood
Solving the question of how plywood is better to plywood, depends on the type of connection and further operating conditions. The process can be presented self-assembly plywood screed or carry additional function, for example, to strengthen the structure.
If you plan to use uncoated plywood, then you can purchase any glue. The main requirement is a dry and clean surface. To apply the composition on both surfaces to be glued, it is better to use a roller or brush. After that, you can strengthen the plywood connection with nails, screws or clamps. Finally, you need to remove the excess mixture.
How to glue plywood to plywood if solid sheets are to be used? You just need to cover the surfaces with a mixture, and then press them with temporary dowel-nails.
It is not recommended to glue a laminated surface covered with a film, therefore, before applying the epoxy composition, the sheets must be cleaned with sandpaper.
How to glue plywood to plywood so as not to disturb the texture of the material and not cause discoloration, but at the same time get a high-strength structure? For internal works PVA glue is ideal, and for outdoor - phenol or
The level of reliability of the connection is affected not only by the applied mixture, but also by strict adherence to the recommendations, since if the latter are violated, the properties of the adhesive may not fully open.
Glue composition
At the heart of almost any glue for gluing plywood are the following components:
- main adhesive ingredient;
- solvent;
- filler, which is usually used as wood dust or flour;
- additives, on which the curing rate and maximum adhesion directly depend;
- plasticizer;
- antiseptic.
The hardener is usually some kind of acid or ammonium chloride, and resistance to wetting is guaranteed by the presence of tannins (formalin, copper salts, etc.).
Adhesive Requirements
Glue for plywood should have the following positive qualities:
- reliable fastening of materials;
- ease of use at home;
- good moisture resistance;
- not susceptible to the destructive effects of bacteria and fungi.
It is equally important that the adhesive does not destroy the wood veneer and does not change its color.
Which glue is better: "KS" or "Tarbikol"?
When deciding how to glue plywood to plywood, people most often opt for "KS" or "Tabrikol".
A little more about their properties and features:
Influence of plywood brand on the choice of adhesive composition
The brand of suitable glue for plywood directly depends on the level of strength required and on how high the humidity is in the room in which the structure is planned to be used.
What kind of glue to glue plywood to plywood, if ready product will be in a well ventilated area? PVA, protein or synthetic is well suited.
If you plan to make country furniture, which will be both indoors and outdoors, it is better to use one of the synthetic compounds.
After the choice was made in favor of a moisture-resistant material for interior, you need to determine how to glue plywood to plywood. Reviews indicate that the connection is best done with compounds based on the use of unlined sheets makes it possible to glue plywood with any type of glue.
How much glue do you need to lay plywood on a concrete surface?
The amount of consumption depends on the number of irregularities, the presence or absence of porosity and the quality of the screed. It should be based on the recommended consumption of 1.2-1.5 kg / m 2, but do not forget that the plywood must be laid on the base without voids. Only uniform pressing of the plywood to the base can ensure optimal distribution of the adhesive over the entire surface.
Tools and materials necessary for work
Before you start working with plywood, you should stock up on the following tools:
- foam roller;
- clamps;
- hammer.
You also need to prepare the necessary materials:
- blanks;
- sanding paper;
- nails.
Plywood gluing sequence
Before you get started, you should figure out how to glue plywood to plywood. The instructions below explain in as much detail as possible all the subtleties of this process:
- At the beginning plywood sheets need to be cleaned from dust and various kinds of contaminants. To remove the laminated layer, you will need
- Then the plywood should be thoroughly dried.
- The distribution of glue to obtain an even layer is recommended to be carried out using a roller.
- Now you need to press the plywood parts together with clamps. It is recommended to remove protruding excess with a knife and rags.
- If there are big details, then they will need to be connected with nails.
- Finally, when the adhesive mass is completely dry, the product must be released from the clamps.
Coffee table from plywood scraps
Much has been said about how to glue plywood to plywood, but how to make something useful from this material?
After various repair work there are a lot of plywood scraps that just go to the trash can.
But it is these pieces that are ideal, for example, for creating an unusual and beautiful coffee table.
List of materials and tools needed for work:
- a whole piece of thick cardboard small size for template;
- many plywood pieces of the same thickness, from which the main structure will be made;
- moisture resistant glue for wooden surfaces;
- jigsaw;
- pencil;
- vise;
- a circular saw;
- Sander;
Gluing plywood: a practical example
How to quickly make a plywood table? First you need to make a paper template for cutting the legs of the product. Coffee table will look good on openwork or curved legs.
You need to take a large sheet of paper and draw legs on it on a scale of 1: 1. When transferring the pattern to cardboard, remember that the finished design should be located on symmetrical legs.
After completing the work with the template, you can proceed to gluing the plywood pieces. The manufacture of the structure must be carried out so that the shape resembles the future legs of the table. The gluing of each 2 parts must be accompanied by the removal of excess mortar and tight compression of the plywood pieces. At the end of the work, the legs should be placed on a flat surface, put a template on top of them and circle its outline with a pencil. To trim the excess structure, you will need a jigsaw. Place a worktop on top of the product and connect the parts together.
Joinery is based on precise fitting and gluing of parts, and it is the last part that is responsible for the strength and durability of the product. There are quite a few varieties of wood adhesives, and today we will talk about the difference between them and the rules for use.
General classification of wood adhesives
The modern assortment of glue for carpentry includes more than a hundred items. Therefore, to begin with, let's briefly go over the types of glue, their properties and the most popular brands.
By origin, all types of glue can be divided into compositions of natural origin and synthetic. In turn, natural adhesives may include animal binders and plant origin, synthetic ones are divided according to the method of production into condensation (formaldehyde) and polymerization (PVA, polyamide). The list of natural adhesives includes compositions based on casein, collagen and albumin, to chemical compounds include PVA, formaldehyde, PVC, epoxy, as well as most universal varieties of glue. As you might guess, adhesives of natural origin are most widely used, primarily due to their low cost and well-established production technology.
Wood is a material with high porosity, which means that almost any material can be used for gluing. adhesive composition. However, since most of joinery is used for domestic purposes, it is not customary to use adhesives based on volatile solvents for gluing them. This is the second advantage of natural glue - it provides sufficient strength despite the fact that it does not emit environment no toxic substances.
However, for a number of products it is required to provide resistance to different kind external influences. Mostly, the struggle is over increasing moisture resistance, because most varieties of natural glue lose strength when wet. Increased adhesion may also be required, mainly such a need arises when gluing parts made of hard and dense species of small-vessel wood. Here, the best performance is demonstrated by compounds on synthetic adhesives.
How to choose the right glue
If you are not a professional carpenter, do not be intimidated by such a variety of wood bonding compounds. You can go the easier way - use time-tested types of wood glue, environmentally friendly and with a certain set of special properties.
Glue of natural origin is supplied mainly in dry form and must be prepared before use. The main disadvantages of natural adhesives are a short lifetime (up to 2-3 days) and low strength of joints due to a low degree of chemical purity and errors made during preparation. At the same time, natural glue - optimal choice for bonding non-critical parts with a large area of adjacent surfaces.
As a universal adhesive, most joiners use factory-prepared compositions based on PVA. Well-established manufacturers - Titebond, Kleiberit, "Moment", they are listed in order of decreasing cost of products and, accordingly, quality. Such types of glue are classified according to the reliability and quality of the connection by index D with four serial numbers. The higher the number, the more pronounced the moisture resistance and strength of the seam, and additional properties may appear. Yes, glue. Titebond III, aka D4 in general classification, allows contact with food products after drying, this glue is mainly used for assembling end cutting boards.
If the contact area of the parts to be bonded is low, high bonding accuracy or load resistance is required, it is better to use compounds based on synthetic resins. Even ordinary EAF epoxy resin in such cases will give odds to any water-soluble adhesive. It is especially advantageous to use it for gluing hardwoods, including thermally modified ones, as well as when joining wood with foreign materials.
Gluing wood to plastic with epoxy
Preparation of parts for gluing
When gluing wood, general rules making glue joints. The fixation will be the stronger, the smaller the thickness of the glue line, the deeper the impregnation and the lower the content of foreign impurities. For these purposes, the surfaces to be bonded must be carefully prepared.
Gluing wooden parts spend up to final grinding. Pre-contact surfaces must be carefully sanded with abrasive paper with a grit of at least 300 grit to remove fine pile that interferes with the absorption of glue. It is important to remember that the cleaned surface is suitable for gluing only for a certain time: over time upper layer wood is oxidized, the vessels are clogged with dust and new portions of the pile rise.
When using a water-soluble adhesive, degreasing is not necessary. However, when gluing on epoxy resin or polyurethane hot melt adhesive, it is desirable to remove residues from the surface tree resins and natural secretions using concentrated technical acetone. The humidity of the parts to be glued should be mentioned separately: a moderately high moisture content (20-22%) when working with water-soluble adhesives slightly slows down the hardening process, but at the same time promotes deeper absorption and ultimately has a positive effect on the strength of the joint. But when using adhesives on liquid resins, an increased (more than 12-14%) moisture content is categorically unacceptable, therefore, the adjacent surfaces are pre-dried with hot air for 2-3 minutes.
Application of glue and curing
The adhesive is applied to the surfaces to be joined as evenly as possible. The thickness of the layer should be as small as possible, but at the same time sufficient to compensate for the curvature. The presence of air cavities in the adhesive seam affects the reliability of the connection extremely negatively. Special attention give seams with an uneven thickness, reaching a peak of several millimeters: in such joints, it is recommended to mix the glue with wood flour or cellulose fiber.
In certain cases, the adhesive does not have the main fastening function, but is used as a plastic filler. Such situations include the strengthening of the joints on the spikes and lamellas with glue, and the splicing of wood by the groove and micro-spike method also partly belongs to this category. In such cases, the glue is applied with a clear excess, after which quite painstaking work is carried out to remove the protruding residues.
On flat and smooth surfaces it is convenient to apply glue with a small flexible spatula, which can be used as a regular plastic card. In the grooves and small holes, as well as on the spikes and folds, glue is applied with a brush with synthetic bristles. When gluing parts with a large contact area, it is necessary to apply a large amount of glue as quickly as possible so that it is absorbed evenly. For example, you can take all the same end boards and furniture boards: to glue several dozen bars, the glue is quickly rolled out over them with a roller. The same applies to sticking veneer, and gluing flat parts of plywood.
Almost all types of glue require exposure after application to outdoors. Upon contact with oxygen, the adhesive undergoes primary curing, which speeds up the drying process of the assembled parts. For PVA-based adhesives, the exposure time can be up to 20-30 minutes, for natural ones - up to several hours. Manufacturers may give special recommendations, for example, polyurethane adhesive is aged until the viscosity is completely lost, after which it is activated by temperature.
Positioning, compression of parts
Holding parts helps to increase the viscosity of the adhesive, which is good for keeping the parts in the bonding position. However, this approach is used mainly in modeling and the implementation of irresponsible glue joints. In most carpentry adhesive joints, rigid fixation of parts using clamps and stops is required.
Fastening parts with additional pressure not only allows you to maintain their position during the drying of the glue, which is almost always accompanied by shrinkage and warping of wood from local moisture. As the adhesive becomes more viscous, the pressure helps to push the compound that has not yet set deep into the pores, which increases the strength of the adhesive line.
IN carpentry a huge number of clamps of different types and sizes are used. For gluing flat parts, you can also use the usual oppression, pressing the product to the table with a load of 7-10 kg. But to connect linear elements, it is necessary not only to withstand the corners, but also to squeeze parts that can be very overall. Ordinary linear clamps do an excellent job of this task; with a lack of length, an emphasis can be attached to the parts, but only if the place of its fixation is blocked by another part of the product. It is also widely practiced to temporarily fasten the stops to the clamps.
For gluing parts at an angle, clamps of a special shape are used, having two pairs of clamps and fixed jaws, rigidly fixed to the frame in a given position. This tool can be replaced with a number of fixtures, which is often practiced when gluing at angles other than straight lines. For example, wedges cut according to a common pattern can serve as a temporary stop. With this method of positioning, it is important that the pressing force has a direction as close as possible to perpendicular to the adhesive line. For these purposes, the occipital parts of the clamps and stops can take a variety of forms.
In conclusion, we give a couple good advice about how to ensure the invisibility of adhesive seams. Most wood adhesives have a translucent color for a reason. White color: after drying, minor streaks are easy to hide under a layer of protective and decorative coating. But there are also a number of exceptional situations.
For example, initially imperceptible traces of glue getting on wood are clearly visible when impregnated with oil. If such a coating of the product is planned, it is necessary to work with glue as carefully as possible. Excess glue that has come out of the seam should not be wiped off immediately, it is better to wait for their preliminary setting, and then cut them off with a modeling knife. With streaks, the same story: attempts to wipe will only lead to deeper absorption, so it’s better to just blot the drop with a foam sponge, and after drying, clean the defective place with a cycle.
If it is necessary to remove small residues of adhesive that has come out, solvents can be used. Depending on the type of adhesive, these can be acetone (for most synthetic resin adhesives), isopropyl alcohol (for PVA-based adhesives), toluene (for universal rubber adhesives and epoxy resins), as well as ordinary soapy water (for natural reversible adhesives). Dried excess must be wiped off with an absolutely clean rag or cotton napkin strictly in the direction of the glue line.
At home or at work, people are often faced with the need to glue paper to cardboard. This situation is well known to office workers, lovers of arts and crafts (cardboard modeling, scrapbooking, appliqué or quilling), as well as most parents with children. preschool age or schoolchildren. How to glue cardboard, or what kind of glue to glue paper to it, is not an idle question at all, especially considering the different density of these two materials and the significant thickness of the cardboard. Not every glue can glue paper and cardboard so that this connection is reliable and looks aesthetically pleasing!
What properties should glue have for gluing cardboard and paper
Before deciding what is the best way to glue cardboard and paper, you need to find out what characteristic properties such an adhesive composition should have. To adhesive connection cardboard and paper was strong enough, the glue should be:
- medium consistency (not thick and not liquid), so that it can be evenly distributed over the surface to be glued, while thinner paper should not warp from excess moisture;
- without a sharp unpleasant odor;
- environmentally friendly and non-toxic;
- colorless when dried, so that at the place of gluing it does not appear yellow shade spoiling the appearance;
- convenient and comfortable to use.
The adhesive for cardboard and paper must have good adhesion to porous materials, and when solidified, form a flexible adhesive seam. It is best to choose a ready-to-use adhesive that can be applied with a dispenser or brush.
What kind of glue to glue cardboard to paper
On the market today there is a large selection of adhesives that can be used to glue paper to cardboard. Each of them satisfies most of the properties required for gluing cardboard and paper, but has some disadvantages:
- silicate glue gives a strong, but not sufficiently elastic seam;
- dry glue stick does not warp thin paper, but has low adhesion;
- clerical PVA glue contains a large amount of water;
- transparent grades of polyurethane adhesive form a neat elastic seam, do not warp paper, but have a high cost;
- gum arabic, which is the resin of the dried juice of some varieties of acacia, is not ready for use;
- flour or starch paste also needs to be prepared before use.
The most convenient, inexpensive and reliable glue that can be used to carefully and aesthetically glue paper to cardboard is PVA glue, made on the basis of polyvinyl acetate dispersion. Only for this purpose, you need to choose not a clerical option, but its other types, for example:
- universal glue PVA-MB;
- universal KU or KU-27;
- super PVA glue "Moment";
- wallpaper glue PVA and some other varieties with a lower water content.
It is PVA glue that is the most common and popular for gluing paper and cardboard.
How to glue paper on cardboard with PVA glue
In order to glue the paper to the cardboard as evenly as possible with PVA glue, you must:
- apply a thin layer of glue on one of the surfaces to be glued;
- gently lay them on top of each other, and smooth with your hand, removing air from under the paper;
- put the product to be glued under the press for 15 minutes;
- Let the glue dry for 24 hours.
For accurate gluing of cardboard and paper, buy high-quality glue from trusted manufacturers - such as our company ChMP "Concord"!
