Make an efficient solid fuel heating boiler. How to make a long-burning solid fuel boiler with your own hands: drawings. Structurally, the electric boiler consists of

The popularity of suburban housing is growing. But due to the remoteness of the site for the house, it is often necessary to look for extraordinary types of heating without the use of gas or electricity. The most efficient unit for such independent heating is a solid fuel boiler. We will understand the intricacies of its manufacture with our own hands.

The device and scheme of a solid fuel boiler

This installation is a classic wood-burning stove or other similar fuel, connected to cavities for a liquid heat carrier. The fuel in this equipment is set on fire, during its combustion, the liquid (usually water) is heated and, plying through the pipes, it gives off heat to the house.

All solid fuel boilers have the main elements:

firebox with a door - a chamber for burning fuel;

an ash pan with a door - a section under the firebox where ash is poured;

a grate separating the chambers, or a grate;

water jacket - a heat exchanger in which water runs to heat the house;

chimney - a pipe for removing smoke.

The fuel heats up the liquid that runs through the pipes and gives off heat to the house.

The described units for heating the coolant differ only in the internal structure.

Various types of solid fuel boilers

Depending on the fuel combustion scheme, there are two types of installations:

boilers with top ignition ( long burning);

boilers with bottom ignition.

The latter are the traditional type, when natural raw materials are set on fire from below. The first option includes units with delayed fuel burnout. The fuel ignited from above is also dosed with air from above. So solid fuel burns very slowly inside its chamber from top to bottom, and its loading is extremely rare.

Among boilers with top ignition, pyrolysis ones stand out. They use a phenomenon called pyrolysis. This is the decomposition (smoldering) of firewood (or other similar fuel) with the release of gas. In such installations, with a lack of oxygen, the fuel does not actually burn, but decomposes in one chamber, while the pyrolysis gas burns out in the second, adjacent chamber. Here, solid fuel is usually pressed through by a piston combined with a pipe for supplying air to the primary chamber (compartment for firewood).

In pyrolysis boilers, firewood slowly smolders, while gas burns out in the adjacent chamber

As a result, extremely slow combustion of fuel occurs. At the same time, the boiler gives off a lot of heat. Such heating in a house with a coolant in the form of water is very effective.

At the same time, according to the type of fuel burned, boilers are divided into:

wood;

coal;

pellet.

There is a firebox at the top of the wood-burning boiler, and an ash pan at the bottom

The first two are clear. As for the pellet unit, special compressed sawdust braces are burned in it. They are called pellets.

In any of the described boilers, the heat exchanger design can have one of the following layouts:

simple bent pipe or bent pipe system;

bent pipes, supplemented with sheet registers like a car radiator.

The second option is usually purchased ready-made in a thermal equipment store.

The heat exchanger consists of bent pipes, supplemented by sheet registers

Preparation for work

Consider the principle of constructing the described boilers separately for each type, but the set of tools will always remain unchanged. Blanks for assembled units should only be made of cast iron, as the most resistant to fire and heat metal.

Applied tools and materials

We will need the following arsenal:

a simple welding machine with a voltage of 220 volts with a set of protective equipment and electrodes;

angle grinder with a set of discs;

electric drill with a set of drills;

tape measure, level, square.

You can do without welding, but in this case the walls of the boiler will have to be fastened with brickwork. In this case, the heat exchanger will need to be ordered at the enterprise.

Approximate calculation of materials

For the manufacture of a solid fuel unit, it is initially necessary to calculate the dimensions of its firebox. And they are taken based on the power of the boiler. These kilowatts, in turn, are calculated as follows: the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe heated room with a height of 2.5 m is used as the initial value, on average, the boiler power is taken equal to the number square meters house divided by ten.

Let, for example, we have an area of ​​​​a heated room equal to 80 square meters. m. Then required power boiler:

N \u003d 80 / 10 \u003d 8 kW.

When burning 1 kg of solid fuel, according to reference data, about 4 kW is released. In accordance with the above calculation, 8 kW is enough for heating 80 m 2.

So, from the above, it follows that our firebox must contain at least 2 kg of fuel (8 kW / 4 kW = 2). It is known that 500 kg of dried solid fuel occupies an approximate volume of 1 m3. It turns out that the desired value of the furnace can be found by dividing a cubic meter by 500 kg and multiplying by 2 kg.

We are satisfied with the following dimensions:

unit height - 0.5 m;

width - 0.2 m;

depth of the combustion chamber - 0.3 m.

To check the volume, multiply these values. V \u003d 0.2 x 0.3 x 0.5 \u003d 0.03 m 3.

This parameter is greater than our calculated value, equal to 0.004 m 3. So, the accepted dimensions will suit us. Now you can sketch.

The outlet for the chimney can be placed behind the boiler

Based on the dimensions of the unit, we stock up on rectangular sheets of cast iron 8 mm thick for the manufacture of the boiler, as well as a heat exchanger. We will need the following details.

side walls with dimensions of 0.5 x 0.3 m - 2 pieces;

rear wall with dimensions 0.5 x 0.2 m - 1 piece;

the bottom of the unit with dimensions of 0.2 x 0.3 m;

Before the heat generator, complete with chamber doors (0.5 x 0.2 m) - 1 piece;

top sheet with a hole for the chimney (0.2 x 0.3 m);

heat exchanger.

We will make the last element from a cast-iron pipe using a bending machine. If necessary, use welding machine.

Heated water flows through the heat exchanger

The front part of the heat generator complete with doors is best purchased at the flea market - there are a lot of them! It is also necessary to purchase a grate installed above the ash pan. Ash from the furnace will pour through it. The heat exchanger can be ordered separately from the welding shop.

Materials for long burning boilers

For a pyrolysis unit, as well as for a product with the possibility of a rare laying of firewood, we use a cylinder. It should be a cast-iron barrel or pipe with a diameter of approximately 400 mm. Its height will be about 1 meter. For the upper part, as well as for the bottom, a round blank with the same diameter of 400 mm is required.

For a pyrolysis boiler, you will need a partition that looks like a top. It will be a cast-iron circle also with a diameter of 400 mm. It will separate the solid fuel chamber from the pyrolysis gas burnout chamber. Holes are needed for the penetration of gases in it. The same circle is useful for the piston.

It can be seen offhand that the volume of these installations will also exceed the calculated value of 0.004 m 3.

Step-by-step instructions for making a solid fuel boiler

First, let's assemble a classic wood-fired unit with a lower ignition.

Wood burning boiler

In the manufacture of such a unit, you should proceed in stages:

On a flat platform, the lower part is horizontally installed - the cast-iron bottom of the future heat generator. The rest of the blanks are pre-cleaned with an angle grinder in the places of future welding.

Then all the walls of the body of the product are placed vertically. With the help of a square, their mutual perpendicularity is observed. Boil parts with electrodes at the junctions. It turns out while the box without the top.

When connecting the walls of the case, perpendicularity should be observed, for this you need to use a square

To form a blower chamber or the so-called ash pan, a cast-iron grate is installed inside the box in size. The height of its fastening is equal to the height of the formed compartment (about 10 cm is enough). The part to be mounted must be fixed with an interference fit. It can be grabbed with short welding seams.

The ash from the combustion of fuel is poured into the ash pan

Next, the top sheet of the heat generator is welded with a hole for the chimney.

Then the working part of the heat exchanger is mounted to the furnace in the place of greatest contact with the emitted combustion products.

Now connect the upper opening of the unit to the chimney, in which there is a damper assembly.

At the next stage, the tubular outlets of the water jacket are connected to the space heating circuit. Here they use threaded connections with seal. At the inlet, if necessary, install coolant temperature sensors or drain valves.

Inside bent pipe

The unit is tested only after the complete installation of the entire heating system.

Video: do-it-yourself solid fuel boiler

DIY pellet boiler

This unit is practically no different from wood. Only as a solid fuel it uses pressed sawdust - pellets.

Pellets are easy to use

Based on the foregoing, the instructions for assembling the boiler for this type of fuel will be identical to those described earlier. Only the ash grate is used here with narrower slots so that the granules do not immediately fall down.

Do-it-yourself solid fuel boiler for long burning

This unit differs from the one described above in that firewood or pellets are loaded and ignited in it from above, and not from below. Also, the body of the product is cylindrical. The manufacturing instructions look like this:

We install the bottom with a diameter of 400 mm on the platform for the boiler.

Weld to the bottom cast iron pipe appropriate size. This will be the body of the assembled unit.

For the boiler body, a pipe with a diameter of 400 mm can be used.

On the side of the cylinder, in its upper part, we cut holes opposite each other - one for laying firewood, and the second for igniting fuel.

We weld a circle to the body for the upper part of the product.

We cut out two holes in this part - one for connecting to the chimney, and the second for air supply. However, a chimney outlet can also be made on the side of the case.

In a combustion boiler, an air supply pipe is obligatory

We connect the chimney and the air supply pipe to the boiler. The latter can be equipped with a fan.

Do-it-yourself pyrolysis boiler

In this product, the device resembles the one just described. But a few details need to be added.

Since it is very difficult to make a pyrolysis boiler on your own, it is usually purchased as a whole. The instruction described below is an approximate plan of action for installing a home-made installation.

At first, the same cylinder is used as in the previous technology. Next, carry out the following actions:

A partition is welded inside the container. This is a circle of cast iron with holes. In the future, he will separate the upper chamber for burning firewood from the compartment for the pyrolysis combustion of the released gas.

Next, the piston is made. This part is designed to push through solid fuel during its combustion. The element should be heavy, and its diameter should be slightly less than the corresponding size of the cylinder.

The piston pushes the fuel during its combustion

Finally, install the piston inward. Next, the upper part of the unit is welded with holes for the piston rod, for connecting to the chimney and for loading firewood or pellets.

Make a connection to the chimney.

All boilers are connected with common system heating in the same way, so the following description is the same for all the instructions given.

Strapping installation

Connecting the piping to the heat generator is carried out in stages:

First, install the supply water supply. It must be connected to the upper outlet of the solid fuel boiler by means of a valve, the role of which is usually played by a ball valve.

The supply water is connected to the boiler with a ball valve.

At the top point, at the beginning of the supply pipeline, it is desirable to install an expansion tank of 10 liters. After all, the coolant tends to expand when heated, and this tank will serve as a kind of pressure stabilizer in the system.

The expansion tank serves as a pressure stabilizer in the system

Next, you need to mount the radiators under the windows of the room, in accordance with building codes, and connect the supply line to them.

The heating supply line is connected to the radiators

Then the return line is mounted. After the radiators, closer to the heating unit, a three-way valve is installed on this line.

A jumper pipeline is connected to the three-way valve, which directly connects the supply and the "return". The jumper is needed for emergency shutdown of the boiler from the system.

A branch pipe with a valve should be attached to the direct outlet of the three-way valve, after which, if necessary, a pump is built in.

Next is the installation of the circulation pump. It can be mounted on the supply line, but it is better - on the return line. For the installation of this node on the "return" is justified, since the temperature of the coolant is lower here, which means that the operating conditions of the device are better.

It is better to mount the circulation pump on the return line

Finally, the final element is a ball valve, from which the “return” pipe goes directly to the boiler return.

The boiler is installed in accordance with building codes. The key here is to follow the rules. fire safety.

The distance from the walls to the boiler must be at least 35 cm.

The place for the heat generator is chosen in a private house for the following reasons:

the boiler should be located in the center of the building, in the corner of the walls adjacent to other rooms;

the unit is located close to the house chimney;

the installation site of the heat generator (floor and walls) is covered with metal or other material that protects against fire.

The above instructions prove that making a solid fuel boiler with your own hands is not so difficult. The main thing is that some skill in plumbing is needed. You also need to be able to handle the welding machine. At the same time, a solid fuel boiler built in accordance with all the rules requires practically no maintenance. It is enough to clean it from ashes once a season.

To date, there are many buildings and structures that are heated by a classic stove and a solid fuel boiler. In fact, there are practically no differences between them, even their efficiency is the same. In this regard, homeowners have recently given preference to the latter. It is not difficult to build solid fuel boilers with your own hands - their device does not require special skills or professional tools.

There are several types of solid fuel boilers. However complex structure some of them does not allow you to build them without special skills. There are two groups of heating installations:

• 1. Classic;
• 2. Pyrolysis.

Production technology

Compared to a conventional stove, homemade solid fuel boilers have some differences, especially with regard to heat transfer. Standard equipment design:

• Chimney - necessary to create traction, as well as the removal of carbon monoxide;
• Firebox with grate - required to maintain sufficient air levels;
• Damper system - used as an air draft regulator;
• Tank - its main task is to heat water for the heating system.

Tools and materials

Having carefully studied the design of the equipment, it becomes clear that to create a boiler you will need:

1. River sifted sand;
2. Steel sheet with a thickness of at least 5 mm;
3. two doors;
4. Cast iron grate;
5. Stainless steel sheet;
6. Metal corner;
7. Furnace dampers;
8. Heating pipes;
9. Measuring instruments: corner, building level, tape measure;
10. Inverter type welding machine;
11. Electric drill with a set of drills;
12. Pliers.

Despite the fact that the manufacture of solid fuel boilers does not require special skills, the ability to handle a welding machine is a prerequisite. Experience with a metal cutting tool and the availability of the required overalls will also come in handy.

Preparing body parts

The main part of the solid fuel boiler is the furnace, the temperature here can reach up to 1000 ⁰С. That is why the choice of material should be guided by the relevant characteristics.

For a longer service life of the unit, its walls are made of heat-resistant steel. In its absence, you can use the usual one, only in this case it should be double. The side, front, rear and bottom walls are cut out of a single sheet of steel with a grinder.

Any solid fuel boiler has its own dimensions, which should be transferred to the metal with measuring tools or a long ruler. In addition to the walls of the chamber, it is necessary to cut stiffeners from a steel profile pipe, and reinforcements for joints from the corner.

In the front wall, holes should be made with a size equal to the dimensions of the door of the furnace and ash bin. Please note that before performing this work, it is necessary to apply a clear markup. Then, using a drill, drill holes in the corners. To prevent damage to the steel sheet, guide the grinder from the center to the edge.

Water tank and heat exchanger

The most efficient are long-burning boilers equipped with two water tanks. They are made of stainless steel sheet in the form of rectangles welded together.

A heat exchanger is a set of ordinary pipes that are used in the plumbing system. They are welded so that the result is the maximum possible flow cycle. Due to the large area, the most efficient heat transfer process between the coolant and the combustible fuel is achieved.

Boiler assembly

Due to the high metal consumption, the finished boiler , made by hand, has a lot of weight, so it is best to assemble it directly at the installation site.

Before installing the equipment, it is necessary to lay out the foundation. For these purposes, heat-resistant brick is used. The bottom of the ash pan is installed on the masonry, and along its perimeter vertical racks connected to each other by welding.

Guides are welded in the body itself, on which grate bars are subsequently laid, then heat exchangers are mounted. From the outside of the firebox, vertical stiffeners are welded. The final stage: the homemade boiler is almost ready, it remains only to mount the outer walls and the top plate.

The gap between the walls is filled with sand. This is necessary for additional heat accumulation, as well as to prevent overheating of the furnace walls. For backfilling, calcined river sand is used, the content of which excludes organic inclusions. In addition, it will help to prevent the appearance of an unpleasant odor during the combustion of solid fuel.

Stainless steel tanks connected to the circuits are placed on the top plate. The doors of the chambers are installed - the boiler is ready for operation.

pyrolysis boiler

Such wood-fired boilers work on the basis of the principle of pyrolysis, that is, transformation under the influence of high temperature solid fuel into a gaseous state in the absence of oxygen. It is much more highly efficient, the operation of such a boiler is characterized by an increased duration in comparison with classic solid fuel boilers. Fuel filling, depending on its type and quality, is carried out from 1 to 3 times a day.

To make a boiler you will need:

1. Metal pipe with a thickness of at least 3 mm and a diameter of 300 mm;
2. Welding machine;
3. Pipe with a diameter of 60 and 100 mm;
4. Metal sheet 4 mm thick.

Cut the pipe 100 and 80 cm long. Cut the bottom out of sheet metal and boil. Additionally, you can weld the legs.

Next, make an air distributor. To do this, use a grinder to cut a circle of sheet metal with a diameter less than 20 mm than the main pipe. Drill a 20mm hole in the middle of the circle. In the lower part of the distributor, install the impeller with metal blades by welding. Their width should not exceed 50 mm. After that, a pipe with a diameter of 60 mm is welded to the top of the regulator. Its height must be higher than the height of the boiler. From above, the pipe is equipped with a damper for adjusting the air supply.

A door is cut out for cleaning the ash in the lower part of the boiler. A chimney pipe with a diameter of 100 mm is welded to the boiler plate. In a horizontal position, its length should not exceed 40 cm, after which it passes into the heat exchanger.

Cut out the cover with a hole for the distribution pipe. It is worth considering the fact that it should fit snugly against the firebox.

The pyrolysis boiler needs a limited supply of oxygen. Therefore, the fuel is placed in it with the minimum possible amount of free space.

Conclusion

When solving the problem of how to carry out heating with a solid fuel boiler with your own hands, you must strictly follow the above tips for its installation. This will ensure that as a result an economical and budgetary device is obtained that can heat a room with the smallest temperature differences at different times of the day.

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“A boiler is really a stove in a barrel of water” ... and the efficiency of such a unit will be at best 10%, or even 3-5%. Some kind of, but a solid fuel boiler is not a stove at all, and a solid fuel stove is not a hot water boiler. The fact is that the process of combustion of solid fuel, in contrast to gas or combustible liquids, will certainly stretch in space and time. Gas or oil can be completely burned immediately in a small gap from the nozzle to the diffuser of the burner, but wood-charcoal cannot. Therefore, the requirements for the design of a solid fuel heating boiler are different than for a heating furnace; it is impossible to simply put a heating circuit water heater into it in continuous circulation. Why is this, and how should a continuous heating boiler be arranged, and this article is intended to explain.

Your own heating boiler in a private house or apartment becomes a necessity. Gas and liquid fuels are steadily rising in price, and in return, inexpensive alternative fuels appear on the market, for example. from crop waste - straw, husks, husks. This is only from the point of view of the owners of the house, not to mention that the transition to individual heating will allow to get rid of energy losses in the mains of the CHP and power transmission lines, and they are by no means small, up to 30%

You can’t do a gas boiler yourself, if only because no one will give permission for its operation. It is forbidden to use individual liquid fuel boilers for heating residential premises due to their high fire and explosion hazard in decentralized use. But a solid fuel boiler can be made with your own hands and formalized, just like a heating stove. This is perhaps the only thing they have in common.

Features of solid fuel

Solid fuel does not burn very quickly, and not all components that carry thermal energy burn out in its visible flame. For the complete combustion of flue gases, a high, but quite definite temperature is necessary, otherwise conditions will arise for the occurrence of endothermic reactions (for example, nitrogen oxidation), the products of which will carry the energy of the fuel into the pipe.

Why doesn't the boiler bake?

The furnace is a cyclic device. So much fuel is loaded into its furnace at once so that its energy is enough until the next heating. The excess combustion energy of the fuel load is partly used to maintain the optimum temperature for afterburning in the gas path of the furnace (its convective system), and is partially absorbed by the body of the furnace. As the load burns out, the ratio of these parts of the fuel energy changes, and a powerful heat flow circulates inside the furnace, several times more powerful than the current heating needs.

The body of the furnace is, therefore, a heat accumulator: the main heating of the room occurs due to its cooling after heating. Therefore, it is impossible to take away the heat circulating in the furnace, because of this, in one way or another, its internal heat balance will be disturbed, and the efficiency will drop sharply. It is possible, and even then not in every place of the convection system, to take up to 5% to replenish the DHW storage tank. Also, the furnace does not need operational adjustment of its thermal power, it is enough to load fuel based on the required hourly average for the time between heatings.

A water boiler, no matter what fuel, is a continuous device. The coolant in the system circulates all the time, otherwise it will not heat up, and the boiler must at any given moment give exactly as much heat as it has gone outside due to heat loss. That is, the fuel must be either periodically loaded into the boiler, or the thermal power must be promptly regulated within a fairly wide range.

The second point is flue gases. They must approach the heat exchanger, firstly, as hot as possible in order to ensure high efficiency. Secondly, they must be completely burnt out, otherwise the energy of the fuel will settle on the register with soot, which will also need to be cleaned.

Finally, if the furnace heats around itself, then the boiler as a heat source and its consumers are separated. The boiler requires a separate room (boiler room or furnace): due to the high concentration of heat in the boiler, its fire hazard is much higher than that of stoves.

Note: an individual boiler room of a residential building must have a volume of at least 8 cubic meters. m, ceiling not less than 2.2 m high, opening window not less than 0.7 sq. m, a constant (without valves) influx of fresh air, a smoke channel separate from other communications and a fireproof interchange from the rest of the rooms.

From this it follows, firstly, boiler furnace requirements:

• It must ensure rapid and complete combustion of the fuel without a complex convection system. This can only be achieved in a furnace made of materials with the lowest possible thermal conductivity, because. Fast combustion of gases requires a high concentration of heat.
• The furnace itself and the parts of the structure associated with it in terms of heat should have the lowest possible heat capacity: all the heat that went into heating them will remain in the boiler room.

These requirements are initially contradictory: materials that conduct heat poorly, as a rule, accumulate it well. Therefore, an ordinary furnace furnace for a boiler will not work, some kind of special one is needed.

Heat exchange register

The heat exchanger is the most important unit of the heating boiler, it basically determines its efficiency. According to the design of the heat exchanger, the entire boiler is called. In domestic heating boilers, heat exchangers are used - water jackets and tubular, horizontal or vertical.

A boiler with a water jacket is the same “stove in a barrel”, a heat exchange register in the form of a tank surrounds the furnace in it. A jacketed boiler can also be quite economical on one condition: if the combustion in the furnace is flameless. A fiery solid fuel furnace certainly requires afterburning of the exhaust gases, and in contact with the jacket, their temperature immediately drops below the value required for this. As a result - efficiency up to 15% and increased soot deposition, and even acid condensate.

Horizontal registers, generally speaking, are always inclined: their hot end (supply) must be raised above the cold (return), otherwise the coolant will go back, and failure forced circulation immediately lead to a severe accident. In vertical registers, the pipes are arranged vertically or in a slight slope to the side. Both here and there pipes, so that gases “get tangled” better in them, are arranged in rows in a checkerboard pattern.

Regarding the directions of movement of hot gases and coolant, pipe registers are divided into:

1. Flowing - gases pass generally perpendicular to the flow of the coolant. Most often, such a scheme is used in horizontal industrial boilers of high power for the sake of their lower height, which reduces the cost of installation. In everyday life, the situation is reversed: in order for the register to properly capture the heat, it has to be made stretched upwards above the ceiling.
2. Countercurrent - gases and coolant move along the same line towards each other. Such a scheme gives the most efficient heat transfer and the highest efficiency.
3. Flow - gases and coolant move in parallel in one direction. It is rarely used in boilers for special purposes, because. In this case, the efficiency is poor, and the equipment wear is high.

Further, the heat exchangers are fire-tube and water-tube. In fire tubes, smoke tubes with flue gases pass through a water tank. Fire tube registers work stably, and vertical ones give good efficiency even in a flow circuit, because. internal water circulation is installed in the tank.

However, if we calculate the optimal temperature gradient for transferring heat from gas to water based on the ratio of their density and heat capacity, then it turns out to be about 250 degrees. And in order to push this heat flux through the wall of a steel pipe of 4 mm (it is impossible to do less, it will burn out very quickly) without noticeable losses in the thermal conductivity of the metal, about 200 degrees are needed. As a result, the inner surface of the smoke tube must be heated to 500-600 degrees; 50-150 degrees - operating margin for fuel water cut, etc.

Because of this, the service life of the fire tubes is limited, especially in large boilers. In addition, the efficiency of a fire-tube boiler is low, it is determined by the ratio of the temperatures of the hot gases entering the register and those leaving the chimney. It is impossible to allow gases to cool below 450-500 degrees in a fire tube boiler, and the temperature in a conventional furnace does not exceed 1100-1200 degrees. According to the Carnot formula, it turns out that you cannot get an efficiency higher than 63%, and even the efficiency of the furnace is not more than 80%, so the total is 50%, which is really bad.

In small domestic boilers, these features are less pronounced, because. with a decrease in the size of the boiler, the ratio of the surface of the register to the volume of flue gases in it increases, this is the so-called. square-cube law. In modern pyrosis boilers, the temperature in the combustion chamber reaches 1600 degrees, the efficiency of their furnace is under 100%, and the registers of branded boilers are guaranteed for 5 years or more only thin-walled from heat-resistant special steel. In them, gases can be allowed to cool to 180-250 degrees, and the overall efficiency reaches 85-86%

Note: cast iron for fire tubes is generally unsuitable, it cracks.

In water-tube registers, the coolant flows through pipes placed in a fire chamber, where hot gases enter. Now the temperature gradients and the square-cube law act in reverse: at 1000 degrees in the chamber, the outer surface of the pipes will be heated to only 400 degrees, and the inner surface to the temperature of the coolant. As a result, ordinary steel pipes serve for a long time and the boiler efficiency is about 80%.

But horizontal flow-through water tube boilers are prone to the so-called. "bubble". The water in the lower pipes is much hotter than in the upper ones. It is pushed through to the supply in the first place, the pressure drops, and the colder upper pipes “spit out” the water. "Whipping" not only gives noise, warmth and comfort as much as a neighbor - a drunkard and a brawler, but is also fraught with an impulse in the system due to water hammer.

Vertical water tube boilers do not fill, but if a water tube boiler is designed for the house, the register must be located on the chimney downstream, in the area where hot gases go from top to bottom. In a flow-type, with the same direction of movement of gases and coolant, a water-tube boiler, the efficiency drops sharply and soot is intensively deposited on the pipes near the supply, and it is generally unacceptable to make a return flow above the supply.

About the heat exchanger capacity

The ratio of the capacities of the heat exchanger and the entire cooling system is not taken arbitrarily. The rate of heat transfer from gases to water is not infinite, the water in the register must have time to take in heat before it leaves the system. On the other hand, the heated outer surface of the register gives off heat to the air, and it is wasted in the boiler room.

Too small a register is prone to boiling and requires precise, quick adjustment of the furnace power, which is unattainable in solid fuel boilers. The register of a large volume warms up for a long time and, if the external thermal insulation of the boiler is poor or absent, it loses a lot of heat, and the air in the boiler room can warm up above the permissible fire safety and technical specifications for the boiler.

The value of the capacity of the heat exchanger of solid fuel boilers ranges from 5-25% of the capacity of the system. This must be taken into account when choosing a boiler. For example, for heating, according to the calculation, only 30 sections of radiators (batteries) of 15 liters each were obtained. With water in the pipes and an expansion tank, the total capacity of the system will be about 470 liters. The capacity of the boiler register should be in the range of 23.5-117.5 liters.

Note: there is a rule - the greater the calorific value of solid fuel, the greater should be the relative capacity of the boiler register. Therefore, if the boiler is coal, the register capacity should be taken closer to the upper value, and for wood - to the lower one. For slow burning boilers, this rule is not true; the capacity of their registers is calculated based on the highest efficiency of the boiler.

What is a heat exchanger made of?

Cast iron as a material for the boiler register does not meet modern requirements:

• The low thermal conductivity of cast iron leads to low boiler efficiency, because. it is impossible to cool the exhaust gases below 450-500 degrees, as much heat will not pass through the cast iron into the water as needed.
• The large heat capacity of cast iron is also its minus: the boiler must quickly give off heat to the system before it escapes somewhere else.
• Cast iron heat exchangers do not fit into modern requirements in terms of weight and dimensions.

For example, let's take the M-140 section from the old Soviet cast iron battery. Its surface area is 0.254 sq. m. For heating 80 sq. m. m. of living space you need a heat exchange surface in the boiler of about 3 sq. m, i.e. 12 sections. Have you seen a 12 cell battery? Imagine what a cauldron should be in which it will fit. And the load from it on the floor will definitely exceed the limit according to SNiP, and a separate foundation will have to be made under the boiler. In general, 1-2 cast iron sections will go to the heat exchanger that feeds the DHW storage tank, but for the heating boiler, the issue of the cast-iron register can be considered closed.

The registers of modern factory boilers are made of heat-resistant and heat-resistant special steel, but production conditions are needed for their manufacture. The usual structural steel remains, but it corrodes very quickly at 400 degrees and above, so fire-tube boilers made of steel must be chosen for purchase or developed very carefully.

In addition, steel is a good conductor of heat. On the one hand, this is not bad, you can count on simple means to get a good efficiency. On the other hand, the return pipe must not be allowed to cool below 65 degrees, otherwise acid condensate from the flue gases will fall on the register in the boiler, which can eat through the pipes within an hour. You can eliminate the possibility of its deposition in 2 ways:

• With a boiler power of up to 12 kW, a bypass valve between the boiler supply and return is sufficient.
• With a higher power and / or a heated area of ​​more than 160 sq. m, an elevator assembly is also needed, and the boiler must operate in the mode of overheating water under pressure.

The bypass valve is controlled either electrically from a temperature sensor or non-volatilely: from a bimetallic plate with a rod, from wax melting in a special container, etc. As soon as the return temperature drops below 70-75 degrees, it lets hot water into it from the supply.

The elevator unit, or simply the elevator (see Fig.) acts the other way around: the water in the boiler is heated to 110-120 degrees under pressure up to 6 atm, which eliminates boiling. To do this, the combustion temperature of the fuel is increased, which increases the efficiency and eliminates condensation. And before being fed into the system, hot water is diluted with a return pipe.

In both cases, forced circulation of water is necessary. However, it is quite possible to create a steel thermosiphon circulation boiler that does not require power supply for the circulation pump. Some designs will be discussed below.

Circulation and boiler

Thermosiphon (gravitational) circulation of water does not allow heating a room with an area of ​​​​more than 50-60 square meters. m. The point is not only that it is difficult for water to squeeze through a developed system of pipes and radiators: if you open drain tap, the water will rush out in a strong stream. The fact is that the energy for pushing water through the pipes is taken from the fuel, and the efficiency of converting heat into motion in a thermosiphon system is scanty. Therefore, the efficiency of the boiler as a whole falls.

But the circulation pump needs electricity (50-200 W), which can be lost. UPS (source uninterruptible power supply) for 12-24 hours of battery life is very expensive, so a properly designed boiler is designed for forced circulation, and in the event of a power outage, it must switch to thermosiphon mode without outside interference, when the heating is barely warm, but still warms.

How is the boiler installed?

From the requirement of the minimum own heat capacity of the boiler, its small weight compared to the furnace and the weight load from it per unit floor area directly follow. As a rule, it does not exceed the minimum allowable according to SNiP for flooring 250 kg / sq. m. Therefore, the installation of the boiler is permissible without a foundation and even parsing the flooring, incl. and on the upper floors.

Place the boiler on a flat, stable surface. If the floor plays, it will still have to be dismantled at the installation site of the boiler to a concrete screed with an extension to the sides of at least 150 mm. The base under the boiler is covered with asbestos or basalt cardboard 4-6 mm thick, and a sheet of roofing iron 1.5-2 mm thick is placed on it. Further, if the flooring was disassembled, the bottom of the boiler is bricked up with a cement-sand mortar to the floor level.

Around the boiler protruding above the floor, thermal insulation is made, the same as under the bottom: asbestos or basalt cardboard, and iron on it. Removal of insulation to the sides of the boiler from 150 mm, and in front of the firebox door at least 300 mm. If the boiler allows additional loading of fuel until the previous portion burns out, then the removal in front of the furnace is needed from 600 mm. Under the boiler, which is placed directly on the floor, only thermal insulation is placed, covered with a steel sheet. Removal - as in the previous case.

For a solid fuel boiler, a separate boiler room is required. The requirements are listed above. In addition, almost all solid fuel boilers do not allow power adjustment over a wide range, so they need a full-fledged piping - a set of additional equipment that ensures efficient and trouble-free operation. We will talk about it further, but in general the boiler piping is a separate big topic. Here we mention only the immutable rules:

1. The installation of the piping is carried out in countercurrent to the water, from the return to the supply.
2. At the end of the installation, its correctness and quality of the connections are checked visually according to the scheme.
3. The installation of the heating system in the house is started only after tying the boiler.
4. Before fuel loading and, if required, power supply, the entire system is filled with cold water and all joints are monitored for leakage during the day. In this case, water is water, and not some other coolant.
5. If there are no leaks, or after they are eliminated, the boiler is started on water, continuously monitoring the temperature and pressure in the system.
6. Upon reaching the nominal temperature, the pressure is controlled for 15 minutes, it should not change by more than 0.2 bar, this process is called pressure testing.
7. After pressure testing, the boiler is extinguished, the system is allowed to cool completely.
8. Drain the water, fill in the regular coolant.
9. Once again, the joints are checked for leakage for a day. If everything is in order, start the boiler. No - eliminate leaks, and again daily control before starting.

Choosing a boiler

Now we know enough to choose a boiler based on the intended type of fuel and its purpose. Let's get started.

Wood

The calorific value of firewood is low, for the best - less than 5000 kcal / kg. Firewood burns quite quickly, releasing a large amount of volatile components that require afterburning. Therefore, it is better not to count on high efficiency on wood, but they can be found almost everywhere.

Wood burning in the house

A home wood-burning boiler can only be of long burning, otherwise it beats it in all respects. Industrial structures, eg. well-known KVR, cost from 50,000 rubles, which is still cheaper than building a furnace, do not require power supply and allow power adjustment for heating in the off-season. As a rule, they work both on coal and on any solid fuel, except for sawdust, but on coal, fuel consumption will be much higher: heat transfer from one load is 60-72 hours, and for specialized coal - up to 20 days.

However, a long-burning wood-burning boiler can be useful in places where there is no regular delivery of coal and a qualified heat engineering service. It costs one and a half times cheaper than coal, its shirt design is very reliable and allows you to build a thermosiphon heating system with an area of ​​​​up to 100 square meters. m .. In combination with the smoldering of fuel with a thin layer and a rather large volume of the jacket, boiling of water is excluded, so the binding is quite the same as for titanium. Connecting a long-burning wood-fired boiler is also no more difficult than titanium, and can be done independently by an unskilled owner.

About brick boilers

Scheme of the device of the boiler "Blago"

Brick is a friend of the furnace and an enemy of the boiler due to the fact that it gives the structure a large thermal inertia and weight. Perhaps the only brick boiler in which the brick is in its place is the pyrolysis "Blago" Belyaev, the diagram in fig. And then, its role here is completely different: the lining of the combustion chamber is made of fireclay bricks. Heat exchanger water-tube horizontal; the problem of coiling is solved by the fact that the register pipes are single, flat, elongated in height.

The Belyaev boiler is really omnivorous, and 2 separate bunkers are provided for loading different types of fuel without stopping the boiler. On anthracite "Blago" can work for several days, on sawdust - up to a day.

Unfortunately, the Belyaev boiler is quite expensive, because of the fireclay lining it is poorly transportable and requires, like everyone else pyrolysis boilers, complex and expensive strapping. Its power is regulated within a small range by flue gas bypass, so it will show good efficiency on average per season only in places with prolonged severe frosts.

About boilers in the furnace

The boiler in the furnace, about which so much is being said and written now, is a water-tube heat exchanger immured in the furnace masonry, see fig. below. The idea is this: the stove after heating should give off heat more to the register than to the surrounding air. Let's say right away: reports of an efficiency of 80-90% are not only doubtful, but simply fantastic. The best brick oven itself has an efficiency of no higher than 75%, and its outer surface area will be at least 10-12 square meters. m. The surface area of ​​the register is hardly more than 5 square meters. m. In total, less than half of the heat accumulated by the furnace will go into the water, and the overall efficiency will be below 40%

The next moment - an oven with a register immediately loses its property. In no case should you drown it out of season with an empty register. The TC (temperature coefficient of expansion) of the metal is much greater than that of a brick, and the heat exchanger swollen from overheating will tear the furnace before our eyes. Thermal seams will not help the case, the register is not a sheet or a beam, but a three-dimensional structure, and it bursts immediately in all directions.

There are other nuances here, but the general conclusion is unambiguous: a stove is a stove, and a boiler is a boiler. And the fruit of their violent unnatural union will not be viable.

Boiler piping

Boilers that exclude boiling water (jacketed long-burning, titanium) cannot be made for a power of more than 15-20 kW and stretched in height. Therefore, they always provide heating of their area in the thermosiphon mode, although the circulation pump, of course, will not interfere. Their piping, in addition to the expansion tank, includes only an air drain valve at the highest point of the supply pipeline and a drain valve at the lowest return point.

The piping of solid fuel boilers of other types should provide a set of functions, which is better understood in fig. on right:

1. safety group: air drain cock, common pressure gauge and breakthrough valve to release steam when boiling;
2. emergency cooling storage tank;
3. its float valve, the same as in the toilet;
4. thermal valve for starting emergency cooling with its sensor;
5. MAG-block - a drain valve, an emergency drain valve and a pressure gauge, assembled in one housing and connected to a membrane expansion tank;
6. forced circulation unit with a check valve, a circulation pump and a three-way bypass valve electrically controlled by temperature;
7. intercooler - emergency cooling radiator.

Pos. 2-4 and 7 make up the power reset group. As already mentioned, solid fuel boilers are regulated in terms of power within small limits, and in case of sudden warming, the entire system can overheat unacceptably, up to a gust. Then the thermal valve 4 starts tap water into the intercooler, and it cools the flow to normal.

Note: the master's money for fuel and water at the same time quietly flowing down the drain. Therefore, solid fuel boilers are unsuitable for places with mild winters and long off-seasons.

The forced circulation group in normal mode bypasses part of the supply to the return line so that its temperature does not fall below 65 degrees, see above. When the power is turned off, the thermal valve closes. As much water enters the heating radiators as they let through in the thermosyphon mode, if only it was possible to live in the rooms. But the intercooler thermal valve opens completely (it is kept closed under voltage), and the excess heat again takes the owner's money into the drain.

Note: if water is lost along with electricity, the boiler must be urgently extinguished. When the water from tank 2 flows out, the system will boil.

Boilers with built-in overheating protection are 10-12% more expensive than conventional ones, but this more than pays off by simplifying the piping and increasing the reliability of the boiler: excess superheated water is poured into an open large-capacity expansion tank, see Fig. return line. The system, except for the circulation pump 7, is non-volatile and goes into the thermosiphon mode smoothly, but with a sudden warming, the fuel is still wasted, and the expansion tank must be installed in the attic.

As for pyrolysis boilers, we present a typical scheme for their piping for reference only. Anyway, its professional installation will cost only a small part of the cost of the component. For reference: a heat accumulator alone for a 20 kW boiler costs about $5,000.

Note: membrane expansion tanks, unlike open ones, are installed on the return line at its lowest point.

Chimneys for boilers

Chimneys of solid fuel boilers are generally calculated in the same way as stoves. General principle: too narrow a chimney will not give the desired draft. For the boiler, this is especially dangerous, because. it is heated continuously and the waste can go at night. Too wide a chimney leads to a “whistling”: cold air descends through it into the furnace, chilling the stove or register.

The boiler chimney must meet the following requirements: the distance from the roof ridge and between different chimneys is at least 1.5 mm, the upward extension above the ridge is also at least 1.5 m. Safe access to the chimney must be provided on the roof at any time of the year. At each break in the chimney outside the boiler room there must be a cleaning door, each passage of the pipe through the ceiling must be thermally insulated. The upper end of the pipe must be equipped with an aerodynamic cap; for the chimney of the boiler, it, unlike the stove, is mandatory. Also, a condensate collector is required for the boiler chimney.

In general, the calculation of the chimney for the boiler is somewhat simpler than for the furnace, because. the boiler chimney is not so winding, the heat exchanger is simply considered a lattice barrier. Therefore, it is possible to build generalized graphs for different design cases, for example. for chimney with horizontal section(pine forest) at 2 m and a condensate collector with a depth of 1.5 m, see fig.

According to such graphs, after an accurate calculation according to local data, it is possible to estimate whether there was a gross error. If the calculated point is somewhere around its generalized curve, the calculation is correct. In extreme cases, you will have to build up or cut the pipe by 0.3-0.5 m.

Note: if, say, for a pipe with a height of 12 m there is no curve for a power of less than 9 kW, this does not mean that a 9 kW boiler cannot be operated with a shorter pipe. It’s just that for lower pipes, a generalized calculation is no longer possible, and you need to calculate exactly according to local data.

Video: an example of the construction of a mine-type solid fuel boiler

conclusions

The depletion of energy resources and the rise in fuel prices have radically changed the approach to the design of domestic heating boilers. Now from them, as well as from industrial ones, high efficiency, low thermal inertia and the possibility of operational power control over a wide range are required.

In our time, heating boilers, according to the basic principles laid down in them, have finally diverged from furnaces and divided into groups for different climatic conditions. In particular, considered solid fuel boilers are suitable for areas with a harsh climate and prolonged severe frosts. For places with a different climate, other types of heaters will be preferable.

Today on the market you can purchase numerous options for heating boilers.

Most of them are designed to work with gas and electricity, there are also solid fuel options and using fuel oil.

However, not everyone will be satisfied. Many would like to make a heating boiler with their own hands (see drawings below), because they believe that the market is not able to satisfy their needs, or the price of purchased boilers is too high.

Well, in many ways they will be right, and we will try to satisfy their requests.

We will tell you how you can make the boiler yourself and how to avoid mistakes.

The option of a brick heating boiler is something that you cannot buy on the market

Heat exchanger in a brick oven

Naturally, on the market you are unlikely to buy a brick boiler for heating, in which brick is the material of manufacture.

You can build such a heating boiler with your own hands.

Drawings and working principle various systems consider below.

In fact, such a boiler is a furnace with a heat exchanger, which is connected to a heating system or a water tank.

The heat exchanger is located in the fuel combustion zone in the furnace or in the smoke circulation system.

The design of the furnace itself, most likely, you will have to peep somewhere or develop it yourself.

The main element that turns the furnace into a boiler is the heat exchanger. It is located in the furnace or in the smoke circulation zone.

In the latter case, it would be more rational to use a non-return furnace scheme, as in a Russian stove, so that the size of the heat exchanger that can be placed in it is as large as possible.

However, the temperature of the water in the heating system will be much lower, and such a system is more suitable for heating water for household purposes. When placed in a smoke circulation system, the heat exchanger can be made of ordinary steel.

Placement of the heat exchanger in the furnace, respectively, will require an increase in the size of the furnace. At the same time, the material from which the heat exchanger is made must be made of heat-resistant steel of great thickness, which is not cheap.

The price of such steel is about 400-500 rubles per kilogram, pipes are even more expensive, and a thick metal heat exchanger can weigh more than 50 kilograms. However, this design, ceteris paribus, will cost less than a purchased boiler of similar capacity.

The heat exchanger can be made both in the form of a coil and in the form of a water jacket. In the first case, water passes through a system of pipes, which create a significant area for heat extraction from the furnace during operation.

The coil is welded from heat-resistant steel pipes with a wall thickness of at least 5 millimeters. Pipe diameter - at least 50 millimeters.

Usually pipe sections and corners are welded until 3-4 rectangular contours are obtained, which are then connected to each other in height with branch pipes in four places.

This method will require a highly qualified welder, there will be a number of welds that will have to be welded “with a mirror”. In terms of complexity, this is a work of the fifth category and even higher.

In the second case, combustion takes place in a firebox, which is located inside a container of water that surrounds the firebox on at least three sides.

In the case of a water jacket, the heat exchanger can be lined, thereby reducing the requirements for the quality of the steel used, but its volume will be significantly larger, and this negates the use of brick as a building material for the boiler.

Most of the boiler will be made of metal, and the volume of welding work will increase significantly, although their qualification will decrease.

Regardless of the type of heat exchanger, if it has direct contact with fire, the water in it can be heated to temperatures above 90 degrees. Therefore, at the outlet, the heat exchanger must be equipped with a protective valve-water seal, which will work if the water starts to boil and save the pipes from rupture.

As a fuel for homemade brick boilers, both solid fuel and gas and liquid fuel can be used. In the latter case, a nozzle with a fuel and air supply system, respectively, is placed in the furnace. gas burner.

Long burning boilers

They work on the same principle as a long-burning stove. For this, you can also make a heating boiler yourself.

The drawings and diagrams will be the same as for long-burning furnaces, with the difference that it is desirable to place the heat exchanger in the zone with the highest combustion temperature. The fuel for such a boiler is peat, sawdust and coal.

The principle of operation of the long-burning furnace is based on the fact that the fuel burns with poor oxygen access. In this case, the main heat is produced by coals.

Long burning furnace device

Their smoldering and combustion produces gas, which, in fact, burns in the furnace-boiler. The rest of the fuel is located outside the combustion zone, and its oxidation occurs gradually.

Of the advantages of such a boiler is self-sufficiency. You can load the fuel once every two or three days, and it will burn without your supervision, ensuring a constant temperature of the heating system.

The efficiency of such boilers is quite large - it reaches 90-95% versus 80-85% for conventional boilers. Not only prepared materials can be used as fuel, but also sawdust and loose peat - practically free fuel in most regions of Russia.

Of the disadvantages - you will not be able to reduce the temperature in your batteries instantly, and in general you will not be able to reduce it if necessary. It is difficult to adjust the operation of the boiler to some selective temperature regime.

At the same time, for a conventional solid fuel boiler, it is quite easy to regulate the temperature with the amount of fuel loaded. In addition, long-burning boilers require a lot of maintenance - its furnace and chimneys will often have to be cleaned.

How to make a long-burning boiler with your own hands is presented in the video:

Heat exchanger without pipes

If you are not a big connoisseur of welding, and have only recently learned how to hold an electrode in your hands, you can make a heat exchanger for a boiler from metal plates. To do this, the boiler itself must have the shape of a rectangular container so that one of its sides communicates with the furnace over a larger area.

One of its walls, which communicates with the furnace, must be made of heat-resistant steel and have a thickness of at least 8 mm. All other walls can be made from ordinary.

The heat exchanger is made from a series of metal plates about 8 mm thick, which are welded to this wall and go into the furnace. Plates for the convenience of welding are placed every 5 cm, welding is carried out in turn for each plate, until all are welded.

The size of the plate is the maximum possible so that the combustion zone is completely filled with plates. WITH inside the boiler is welded with the same plates that go into the boiler itself.

The more they occupy the volume of the boiler, the better. The plates in the boiler can be made thinner - about 3 mm. Welding must be carried out so that the plates in the furnace are not opposite the plates in the boiler, but with an offset, in a checkerboard pattern.

This is necessary so that the place of the welded seam of the plates does not spoil the wall metal. For the convenience of welding the plates, one of the walls of the boiler is welded after all the plates of the boiler are welded.

This scheme is suitable for brick boilers. The boiler is embedded in one of its walls into the furnace, an asbestos gasket is placed between it and the furnace so that the brick does not collapse when the metal is deformed.

The heat exchanger will take heat from the flame in the furnace, while providing a sufficiently high temperature for heating water. The efficiency of such a boiler is only slightly inferior to boilers with a coil.

Among the shortcomings - the plates in the furnace will constantly burn out, unlike the pipes of the coil filled with water. Somewhere every 2 years, you will have to partially disassemble the furnace, remove the boiler and weld the plates again. Of course, it is possible to make plates from heat-resistant steel, but this significantly increases the cost of the design.

Boilers that are better to buy

Numerous gas boilers. Of course, you can put a gas burner in a furnace with a heat exchanger, which is designed to operate a heating system.

In all more complex cases, it is best to buy a gas boiler in a store, especially if additional frog-type control devices or temperature control devices will be used during the operation of the boiler.

And in general gas equipment a rather dangerous thing, it is better to purchase devices that have been tested and mass-produced.

Boilers on coal. No matter how strange it may seem, coal-fired boilers are also best purchased separately. The fact is that the combustion temperature of coal is twice that of wood.

Therefore, the risk of fire will also be twice as high. In addition, you can only make a heat exchanger for a solid fuel boiler made of steel.

And in industrial production, both cast-iron and copper heat exchangers are made, which will have a longer service life.

Electrical equipment of small capacity and dimensions. For example, to make a flow heating boiler itself, which will take up little space and heat cold water there is no point in plumbing - the market is replete with cheap equipment offers low power. This makes it pointless to manufacture such heating boilers on their own.

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foxremont.com

How to make a heating boiler with your own hands?

When designing a heating system for a private house, many owners, in order to reduce the cost of purchasing equipment, prefer home-made heating boilers to factory ones. Indeed, factory units are quite expensive, and making a wood-fired boiler with your own hands is quite possible if you have competent drawings and skills in handling tools for machining materials, as well as with a welding machine.

The scheme of operation of hot water boilers, as a rule, is universal - the thermal energy that is released during the combustion of fuel is transferred to a heat exchanger, from where it goes to heaters for heating the house. The design of the units can be very different, like the fuel used and the materials for manufacturing.

Long burning pyrolysis boilers

The scheme of operation of a long-burning pyrolysis device is based on the process of pyrolysis (dry distillation). During the smoldering of firewood, wood gas is released, which burns at a very high temperature. At the same time, a large amount of heat is released - it goes to heat the water heat exchanger, from where it enters through the main line into the heaters to heat the house.

Solid fuel pyrolysis boilers are quite expensive, so many owners prefer to make a home-made heating boiler for their home.

The design of such a unit is quite simple. Solid fuel pyrolysis boilers consist of the following elements:

• Firewood loading chamber.
• Grate.
• Volatile gas combustion chamber.
• A smoke exhauster is a means of providing forced draft.
• Water type heat exchanger.

Firewood is placed in the loading chamber, set on fire and the damper is closed. In an airtight space, when firewood smolders, nitrogen, carbon and hydrogen are formed. They enter a special compartment, where they burn out - while a large amount of heat is released. It is used to heat the water circuit, from where, together with the heated coolant, it goes to heat the house.

The fuel combustion time for such a water-heating device is about 12 hours - this is quite convenient, since there is no need to visit it often to load a new portion of firewood. For this reason, solid fuel pyrolysis boilers are highly valued among private sector homeowners.

The drawing in the diagram clearly demonstrates all the design features of pyrolysis hot water boilers.

In order to independently manufacture such a device, you will need a grinder, a welding machine and the following Consumables:

• Sheet of metal 4 mm thick.
• Metal pipe with a diameter of 300 mm with a wall thickness of 3 mm.
• Metal pipes with a diameter of 60 mm.
• Metal pipes with a diameter of 100 mm.

The step-by-step manufacturing algorithm is as follows:

• We cut off a section 1 m long from a pipe with a diameter of 300 mm.
• Next, you need to attach the bottom of sheet metal - for this you need to cut out a section of the required size and weld it to the pipe. Stands can be welded from the channel.
• Next, we make an air intake. We cut out a circle with a diameter of 28 cm from sheet metal. In the middle we drill a hole with a size of 20 mm.
• We place a fan on one side - the blades should be 5 cm wide.
• Next, we put a tube with a diameter of 60 mm and a length of more than 1 m. We attach a hatch on the upper side so that it is possible to adjust the air flow.
• A fuel hole is required at the bottom of the boiler. Next, you need to weld and attach the hatch for hermetic closing.
• Place the chimney on top. It is placed vertically at a distance of 40 cm, after which it is passed through a heat exchanger.

Solid fuel pyrolysis water-heating devices very effectively provide heating for a private house. Making them yourself helps save a very significant amount of money.

How to make a steam boiler with your own hands

The scheme of operation of steam heating systems is based on the use of thermal energy of hot steam. During the combustion of fuel, a certain amount of heat is generated, which enters the hot water section of the system. There, the water turns into steam, which, under high pressure, enters from the hot water section into the heating main.

Such devices can be single-circuit and double-circuit. The single-circuit device is used only for heating. Double-circuit also provides the presence of hot water supply.

The steam heating system consists of the following elements:

• Hot water steam device.
• Stoyakov.
• Highways.
• heating radiators.

The drawing in the figure clearly demonstrates all the nuances of the design of the steam boiler.

See also: homemade gas heating boiler.

You can weld such a unit with your own hands if you have some skills in handling a welding machine and tools for machining materials. The most important part of the system is the drum. We connect pipes of the water circuit and instruments for control and measurement to it.

Water is pumped into the upper part of the unit using a pump. Pipes are directed downwards, through which water enters the collectors and the lifting pipeline. It passes in the fuel combustion zone and water is heated there. In fact, the principle of communicating vessels is involved here.

First you need to think through the system well and study all its elements. Then you need to purchase all the necessary consumables and tools:

• Stainless steel pipes with a diameter of 10-12 cm.
• Stainless steel sheet 1 mm thick.
• Pipes with a diameter of 10 mm and 30 mm.
• Safety valve.
• Asbestos.
• Tools for machining.
• Welding machine.
• Devices for control and measurements.

• We make a body from a pipe 11 cm long with a wall thickness of 2.5 mm.
• We make 12 smoke pipes 10 cm long.
• We make a flame tube 11 cm.
• We make partitions from a sheet of stainless steel. We make holes in them for smoke tubes - we attach them to the base by welding.
• We weld a safety valve and a manifold to the body.
• Thermal insulation is carried out using asbestos.
• We equip the unit with control and adjustment devices.

Conclusion

As practice shows, the manufacture of boilers for heating systems of private houses is quite common. With the correct implementation of all heat engineering calculations, with a well-drawn drawing and a wiring diagram for the main, such devices do their job quite effectively and save a significant amount of money, since such factory-made devices are quite expensive.

Making heating devices on your own is a scrupulous, complex and time-consuming task. In order to cope with it, you need to be able to use a welding machine and have the skills to use tools for machining materials. If you do not have such skills, such a case will be a good reason to learn - and you will be able to provide your home with warmth and comfort with your own hands.

mynovostroika.ru

Do-it-yourself heating boiler: necessary drawings and product features

Making a heating boiler on your own is not such a simple matter, as they write about it on many sites. A person who decides to make a boiler with his own hands must have certain qualifications and skills, have the necessary tools and materials, and also be able to create home-made drawings for heating boilers, according to which the product will be manufactured. Human hands created the most complex technical constructions on Earth, so there is nothing surprising in the fact that home-made heating boilers are much better than factory products in terms of their technical data.

An enterprise is created in order to make a profit, therefore, such a product design is developed that has a minimum cost for given technical parameters. But for self-manufacturing more often steel of higher quality and thickness is chosen. Usually no one saves and high-quality fittings, fittings and pumps are purchased. And for the do-it-yourself heating boiler being created, the drawings are used either by already tested models, or their own unique ones are being developed.

Homemade electric heating boilers

Having the skills to work with metal, having the necessary material and tools, it is easiest to make home-made electric boilers - electrode or heating elements. If a heating element is used as a power converter, then it is necessary to make or select a steel case in which it will be installed. All other components - regulators, sensors, thermostat, pump and expansion tank are purchased separately in specialized stores. Electric boilers can be used indoors or open systems heating.

What is needed and how to make a do-it-yourself 220v electric heating boiler efficient and reliable?

You need a container made of steel, in which one or more heating elements are placed in accordance with the drawings or sketches for the product being created. Even at the project stage for do-it-yourself heating boilers, the drawings should provide for the possibility of prompt and easy replacement of a burned-out heating element. For example, the body can be made of a steel pipe with a diameter of 220 mm with a body length of about 0.5 m. Flanges with supply and return pipes and seats are welded to the ends of the pipe, in which heating elements are installed. The circulation pump, expansion tank and pressure sensor are connected to the return line.

Features of the power supply of electric boilers

Heating elements consume significant power, usually more than 3 kW. Therefore, for electric boilers, you need to create a separate power line. For units up to 6 kW, apply single-phase network, and at high power values, a three-phase network is required. If you supply a home-made heating boiler with a heating element with a thermostat and connect it through RCD protection, then this perfect option. When installing conventional heating elements, the thermostat is purchased and installed separately.

Electrode heating boilers

Boilers of this type impress with their extreme simplicity. It is a container in which the electrode is installed, the boiler body serves as the second electrode. Two pipes are welded into the tank - supply and return, through which the electrode boiler is connected to heating system. The efficiency of electrode boilers is close, like that of other types of electric boilers, to 100% and its real value is 98%. The well-known electrode boiler "Scorpion" is the subject of heated discussions. Opinions are extremely diverse, from excessive admiration to complete denial of the application for heating circuits.

It is believed that electrode boilers were designed for heating submarines. Indeed, the manufacture of heating boilers requires a minimum of materials, sea water with dissolved salts is an excellent coolant, and the hull of a submarine, to which the heating system is connected, is an ideal ground. At first glance, this is an excellent heating circuit, but can it be used for heating homes and how to make an electric heating boiler with your own hands, repeating the design of the Scorpion boiler?

Electrode boiler Scorpion

In electrode boilers, the coolant heats the current passing between the two electrodes of the boiler. If distilled water is poured into the system, the electrode boiler will not work. A special saline solution for electrode boilers with a specific conductivity of about 150 ohm/cm is commercially available. The design of the unit is so simple that it is quite simple to make a Scorpion electric boiler with your own hands, if you have the necessary skills.

The basis of the boiler is a steel pipe with a diameter of up to 100 mm and a length of up to 300 mm.

Two pipes are welded to this pipe for connection to the heating system. Inside the device there is an electrode isolated from the body. The boiler body plays the role of a second electrode, a neutral wire and a protective ground are connected to it.

Disadvantages of electrode boilers

The main disadvantage of electrode boilers is the need to use saline solutions, which adversely affect batteries and heating pipelines. The heating system for several years may require a complete replacement of radiators, especially aluminum ones (more detailed information which you will read about here), and pipelines. Circulation pumps that are designed to work with antifreeze or clean water are at great risk. The second huge drawback is that electrode boilers require an ideal protective grounding of the case, otherwise they pose a huge danger of electric shock. It is forbidden to sell and install such equipment in foreign countries!

Homemade solid fuel heating boilers

The demand for solid fuel boilers is growing due to the rise in the price of gas and electricity, and their price is also growing accordingly. An alternative is the independent manufacture of heating boilers, because they will cost less, and they will work no worse than factory products.

At home, it is impossible to make a cast-iron firebox, so steel is used for manufacturing.

If possible, it is better to use heat-resistant alloy steel (stainless steel) with a thickness of at least 5 mm. It is not worth saving on metal, because the boiler is made for itself, for many years. You can take ready-made drawings as a basis or make them yourself.

Features of the manufacture of gas boilers

Theoretically, making a gas heating boiler with your own hands is not particularly difficult for people who know how to work with metal and have the necessary skills and tools. Gas boilers are classified as high-risk products, therefore, for home-made gas heating boilers, you need to obtain permission for installation in the gas service, for which a product certificate is required.

It should be borne in mind that obtaining a certificate is quite a costly business and the slightest deviation from the established norms and rules leads to refusal. Is it worth the risk? In addition, modern SNIiP do-it-yourself manufacturing of gas-fired heating boilers is prohibited!

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Do-it-yourself drawings of solid fuel boilers

The article describes in detail how, according to the drawings, to make a boiler of slow and extra-long burning with your own hands. The process, only at first glance seems difficult and unique, but following the instructions from the article, you will be able to do it no worse than the masters, the main thing is to carefully watch the video.

Drawing of a simple long-burning boiler

This design of a solid fuel boiler is quite simple. The heat exchanger can be made of sheet steel in the form of a "water jacket". For maximum efficiency of heat transfer and increase in the area of ​​contact with the flame and hot gases, its design provides for the presence of two reflectors (protrusions inward).

Drawing of a simple solid fuel boiler

In this design, the heat exchanger is a combination of a "water jacket" around the combustion chamber and an additional slot-like sheet metal register in its upper part.

Scheme-drawing of a boiler with a slot-type heat exchanger

1 - chimney; 2 - water jacket; 3 - slot heat exchanger; 4 - loading door; 5 - firewood; 6 - lower door for ignition and cleaning; 7 - grate; 8 - door for regulating the air supply and cleaning the ash pan.

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In these options, the "water jacket" is supplemented with heat exchange registers from pipes in the upper part of the combustion chamber. In addition, such units are designed for cooking food on them. Option 4 is more powerful and has a top loading door.

Rice. 3 Designs of solid fuel boilers with additional registers and hob

1 - firebox; 2 - register of pipes; 5 - return pipe; 6 - supply pipe; 7 - top loading door; 8 - lower door for ignition and air supply; 9 - loading door; 10 - chimney; 13 - grate; 14,15,16 - reflectors; 17 - damper; 19 - water jacket; 20 - ash pan; 21 - hob.

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Top burning boiler

This unit differs from the previous ones - firstly, in its shape (it is of a circular cross section and can be made of pipes of different diameters), and secondly, in the way fuel is burned in it (it is burned in it from top to bottom). In order to ensure such a combustion process, it is necessary to provide air supply from above, directly to the place of combustion. This function is performed here by a telescopic air supply pipe, which rises when fuel is loaded and falls down after fuel is ignited. With its gradual combustion, the pipe falls under its own weight. In the lower part of the pipe, a "pancake" with blades is welded to ensure uniform air supply.

To ensure the best conditions for fuel combustion, an air heating chamber is located in the upper part. The air supply, and hence the burning rate, is regulated by a valve at the inlet to this chamber from above. The heat exchanger here is made in the form of a "water jacket" around the combustion chamber.

Drawing of a solid fuel boiler for upper combustion

1 - outer wall (pipe); 2 - inner wall; 3 - water jacket; 4 - chimney; 5 - telescopic air supply pipe; 6 - air distributor (metal "pancake" with ribs; 7 - air preheating chamber; 8 - air supply pipe; 9 - supply pipe with heated water; 10 - air damper; 11 - loading door; 12 - cleaning door; 13 - a pipe with water from the system (return); 14 - a cable that controls the damper.

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Solid fuel pyrolysis boiler

The difference of this design is that the solid fuel does not burn in it, as in the usual one, but with a lack of primary air supply, it is “distilled” into wood (pyrolysis) gas, which is burned in a special afterburner when secondary air is supplied to it. This supply can be either natural or forced.

Scheme-drawing of one of the options for a pyrlization boiler

1 - draft regulator with a temperature sensor; 3 - firewood; 4 - bottom door; 5 - lattice; 6 - air damper for primary air supply; 7 - ash pan; 8 - grate; 10 - cleaning; 11 - drain; 12 - thermal insulation of the body; 13 - return flow (coolant supply from the system); 14 - nozzle; 15 - secondary air supply; 16 - chimney damper; 17 - pipe with heated water; 18 - damper; 21 - loading door; 22 - afterburner chamber.

Such boilers can be both with conventional fuel combustion and with pyrolysis. In the first case, all the necessary air is supplied through the lower door, and the combustion products, having passed through the heat exchanger, are removed into the chimney. In the second case, a limited amount of primary air is supplied to the place of combustion, where the wood is burned with the release of pyrolysis gas. In addition, such structures are equipped with an additional afterburner chamber, where secondary air is supplied and gas is burned. In the upper part of the heat exchange chamber there is a damper, which opens during ignition and allows the flue gases to go directly into the chimney.

Drawing-scheme of a shaft-type boiler with an afterburner

1 - damper for primary air supply; 2 - lower door for ignition and cleaning; 3 - lattice; 4 - firewood; 5 - loading door (may be located on top); 12 - pipe with heated water (supply); 13 - starting damper; 14 - chimney damper; 15 - heat exchanger; 16 - secondary air supply; 17 - afterburner chamber; 18 - return; 19 - drain; 20 - cleaning; 21 - damper; 22 - grate; 25 - ash pan.

Scheme of a shaft-type boiler with a lining of the inner surface of the combustion chambers and afterburning to the content

Do-it-yourself solid fuel boiler for ultra-long burning

Homemade heater will have the following design:

1. The firebox is a “box” with a depth of 460 mm, a width of 360 mm and a height of 750 mm with a total volume of 112 liters. The volume of fuel load for such a combustion chamber is 83 liters (the entire volume of the furnace cannot be filled), which will allow the boiler to develop power up to 22 - 24 kW.
2. The bottom of the firebox is a grate from a corner on which firewood will be laid (air will flow into the chamber through it).
3. Under the grate there should be a compartment 150 mm high for collecting ash.
4. 50 l heat exchanger for the most part located above the furnace, but its lower part covers it from 3 sides in the form of a water jacket 20 mm thick.
5. A vertical flue pipe connected to the top of the furnace and horizontal flame pipes are located inside the heat exchanger.
6. The firebox and ash pan are closed with hermetic doors, and air is taken in through a pipe in which a fan and a gravity damper are installed. As soon as the fan is turned off, the damper lowers under its own weight and completely blocks the air intake. As soon as the temperature sensor detects a decrease in the temperature of the coolant to the level set by the user, the controller will turn on the fan, the air flow will open the damper and a fire will flare up in the furnace. Periodic "shutdown" of the boiler in combination with an increased volume of the furnace allows you to extend the work on one load of fuel up to 10 - 12 hours on wood and up to 24 hours on coal. The automation of the Polish company KG Elektronik has proven itself well: a controller with a temperature sensor - model SP-05, a fan - model DP-02.

do-it-yourself solid fuel boiler for ultra-long burning

The furnace and heat exchanger are wrapped in basalt wool (thermal insulation) and placed in the body.

The process of making a boiler with your own hands.

First of all, you need to prepare all the necessary blanks:

1. Steel sheets with a thickness of 4 - 5 mm for the manufacture of fireboxes. Alloy steel of heat-resistant grades 12X1MF or 12XM (with the addition of chromium and molybdenum) is best suited, but it must be cooked in an argon environment, so you will need the services of a professional welder. If you decide to make a firebox from structural steel (without alloying additives), then you should use low-carbon grades, for example, Steel 20, since high-carbon ones can lose their ductility from exposure to high temperatures (they are hardened).
2. Sheet steel with a thickness of 0.3 - 0.5 mm, painted with a polymer composition (decorative sheathing).
3. 4mm structural steel sheets for the hull.
4. Du50 pipe (flame pipes inside the heat exchanger and branch pipes for connecting the heating system).
5. Pipe Du150 (pipe for connecting the chimney).
6. Rectangular pipe 60x40 (air intake).
7. Steel strip 20x3 mm.
8. Basalt wool 20 mm thick (density - 100 kg / m3).
9. Asbestos cord for sealing openings.
10. Factory made door handles.

Welding of parts should be carried out with MP-3C or ANO-21 electrodes.

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DIY heat exchanger for a solid fuel boiler

First, a firebox is assembled from two side, one rear and one upper walls. The seams between the walls are made with full penetration (they must be airtight). A steel strip 20x3 mm is horizontally welded from below to the firebox from 3 sides, which will serve as the bottom of the water jacket.

Next, to the side and rear walls of the furnace, it is necessary to weld short pieces of a pipe of small diameter in random order - the so-called clips, which will ensure the rigidity of the heat exchanger.

Now, the outer walls of the heat exchanger with pre-made holes for clips can be welded to the bottom strip. The length of the clips should be such that they protrude slightly beyond the outer walls to which they are to be welded with a sealed seam.

Coaxial holes are cut in the front and rear walls of the heat exchanger above the furnace, into which the flame tubes are welded.

It remains to weld pipes to the heat exchanger for connection to the heating system circuit.

Homemade sheet metal boiler

Boiler assembly

The unit must be assembled in the following sequence:

1. First, the body is made, grabbing the side walls and frames of the openings with short seams to its bottom. The lower frame of the ash pan opening is the very bottom of the case.
2. From the inside, corners are welded to the body, on which the grate pan of the furnace (grate) will be laid.
3. Now you need to weld the grate itself. The corners of which it consists must be welded with the outer corner down, so that the air coming from below is evenly distributed by the two inclined surfaces of each corner.
4. Further, a firebox with a heat exchanger is welded to the corners on which the grate is laid.
5. Firebox and ash pan doors are cut from steel sheet. From the inside, they are framed with a steel strip laid in two rows, between which an asbestos cord must be laid.

Now it is necessary to weld the mating parts of the door hinges and several brackets 20 mm wide to the boiler body, to which the casing will be attached.

The heat exchanger must be lined on three sides and on top with basalt wool, which is pulled together with a cord. Since the insulation will be in contact with hot surfaces, it should not contain phenol-formaldehyde binder and other substances that emit toxic volatile substances when heated.

With the help of screws, the casing is screwed to the brackets.

An automation controller is installed on top of the heat generator, and a fan is screwed to the duct flange.

The temperature sensor must be placed under the stone wool so that it is in contact with the rear wall of the heat exchanger.

If desired, the boiler can be equipped with a second circuit, allowing it to be used as a water heater.

The circuit has the form of a copper tube with a diameter of about 12 mm and a length of 10 m, wound inside the heat exchanger on the flame tubes and brought out through back wall.

For the information for the article, we thank our colleagues: microclimat.pro, v-teple.com

Water hammer in the heating system

Expansion tanks open type for heating system

Content

1. Why is a solid fuel boiler so good?
2. The main components of a solid fuel boiler
3. Tools and materials for self-production
4. We manufacture and launch a homemade boiler
5. Features of installing a TT boiler with your own hands

Introduction

For many years, wood, coal and peat were the only available sources of fuel. That is why the use of homemade solid fuel stoves has a rich history. Recently, however, furnaces have been replaced by solid fuel boilers. Many craftsmen independently develop the design of such devices and make them at home with their own hands.

In this article, we will consider what a home-made solid fuel boiler is, what are the features of its design, what materials and tools are needed for self-production, and also what are the nuances of installation and installation.

Why is a solid fuel boiler so good?

A solid fuel boiler is one of the most popular heating appliances. They are used everywhere, not only in Russia, but throughout the world. There are several reasons for this popularity:

• solid fuels are cheaper than other fuels;
• firewood and coal are more affordable than gas or electricity;
• simplicity of boiler design;

Photo 1: Kindling a homemade wood-fired boiler

The simplicity of the design allows you to assemble a solid fuel boiler with your own hands without any problems. This task can be done by anyone with a little bit of welding skills. It is enough to pick up the necessary tools, prepare materials, disassemble the diagrams and drawings, and you can get to work.

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The main components of a solid fuel boiler

If you have firmly decided to assemble a boiler for your country house with your own hands, then first we will get acquainted with the scheme of its device. The classic hot water boiler is a very simple appliance. Structurally, it consists of the following main components and assemblies:

• furnace

  Structurally, it is a compartment in which fuel burns.

• ash pan

  The section directly below the firebox in which ash accumulates.

• grate (or grate)

  Most often made of cast iron, such as y, but steel ones are also found. Through the holes in the grate, the ash enters the ash pan, from where it is then removed manually.

• firebox and ash pan doors

  Serve to lock the respective chambers.

• chimney

  Pipe for removal of a smoke and gases arising in the course of burning.

• heat exchanger

  A device that transfers the energy of a burning fuel to a coolant, such as water. Structurally, it is a container. In the upper and lower parts of the heat exchanger there are branch pipes for connection to the heating system. In the process of fuel combustion, the coolant heats up, while rising to the upper part of the tank, from where it enters the heating system through the pipe. After passing a circle through the heating system, it returns to the heat exchanger through the lower pipe. Such a closed cycle provides space heating.

Photo 2: Solid fuel boiler from a gas cylinder

As you can see, the design of a solid fuel boiler is quite simple and even without special skills, it is quite possible to assemble it yourself. To do this, we need a drawing, as well as some set of tools and materials.

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Tools and materials for self-production

Before you start creating a homemade solid fuel boiler, you need to prepare everything necessary materials and tools. In the process of work we will need:

materials

For the manufacture of a domestic solid fuel heating device, you will not need the following materials:

• steel sheets from 5 mm thick

  The use of thick steel sheets makes it possible to avoid burning through the walls of the boiler and achieve strength and durability of the structure.

• metal corners of different sizes

  Corners are used to form stiffeners and connect steel sheets to each other.

• firebox and ash pan doors

  Cast iron doors for a homemade boiler are best purchased in specialized stores.

• pipes of different diameters of round and rectangular section

  Steel pipes will be needed in the process of manufacturing a heat exchanger.

• grate

  The grate, as well as the doors for the firebox and ash pan, are best purchased at the store.

Photo 3: Making a homemade solid fuel boiler

Tools

In order to make a solid fuel boiler yourself, you must have the following tools at hand:

• welding machine

  When making a boiler with your own hands, the lion's share of the whole process is occupied by welding. You must have welding experience or entrust this task to professionals.

• Bulgarian

  The grinder is useful for cutting steel sheets, and preparing holes in various parts of the boiler.

• devices for measuring and marking

  In order to correctly cut the necessary blanks for the future solid fuel boiler, it is necessary to measure and mark them. To carry out this stage of work, you will need a tape measure, corners, level and chalk.

• metal working tools

  We will need: pliers, a hammer, grinding wheels of various sizes, an electric drill, etc.

Important! When working with metal and a welding machine, one must be extremely careful and observe safety precautions. All work must be carried out in gloves that protect against cuts, and when welding, use protective screen for eyes.

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We manufacture and launch a homemade boiler

In order to start making a home-made solid fuel boiler with our own hands, we only lack its scheme. There are many design options. There is even a variety hob. The figure below shows a drawing of the simplest solid fuel heating device:

Photo 4: Drawing of a homemade solid fuel boiler

As you can see, everything is quite simple and you will be able to make such a boiler yourself. As a basis, we use a gas cylinder, which is ideal for this purpose. So, all the preparatory work has been carried out and you can proceed directly to the marking and cutting of parts, and then to the assembly of the boiler itself.

markup

With a marker right on the bottom of the propane tank body, mark a rectangular hole for installing the ash pan door. Along the perimeter of the upper part of the body, draw a cut line for the top.

We make a boiler cover

Cut off the top of the balloon along the previously marked line. We weld strips of sheet metal 3-5 mm thick along the cut line so that a groove is formed into which the top cover fits tightly. We cut off the cylinder valve, and in its place we cut a hole with a diameter of 150 mm. The lid must be equipped with handles for easy installation and removal, as well as clamps for fastening to the main part of the boiler.

Photo 5: gas bottle cut top

Making a chimney pipe

From the end of the cylinder, in its upper part, we cut a hole for attaching the gas outlet pipe. Subsequently, a chimney will be attached to it.

Preparation of the ash chamber

Cut out a rectangular opening at the bottom of the balloon. Then, in this opening, we will mount a door that tightly closes the ash pan.

Photo 6: We cut a hole for the ash pan in the boiler blank

Making an air supply system

From a steel sheet, 5 mm thick, cut out round disc with a hole in the middle. The diameter of the disc should be slightly smaller than the diameter of the inside of the balloon. We weld several guides from the corners to the surface of the disk.

Photo 7: We make the air supply system ourselves

We design a heat exchanger

There are quite a few various options heat exchanger design. What unites them is that they all represent a flow path. We will manufacture a heat exchanger based on the principle of a water jacket. Structurally, it will be a rectangular tank, inside which we will place our firebox from a propane cylinder. At the top and bottom of the heat exchanger we will make nozzles for connecting the supply and return lines.

Photo 8: We independently manufacture the TT boiler body

Boiler assembly

We collect together all the parts of the firebox and place it inside the tank. In the body of the heat exchanger, it is necessary to make an opening for access to the ash pan. The tank is brewed from above and a sealed boiler is obtained with a firebox in its center.

For more information on how to make a solid fuel boiler with your own hands, see the video:

The principle of operation of such a solid fuel boiler is quite simple. The heat exchanger tank is filled with water and connected to the heating system. Firewood is filled through the top cover. The bookmark from above is set on fire and an air supply device is inserted into the boiler, and then the lid is closed. Firewood burns from top to bottom, thanks to which the heating device operates on one tab for a long time. As the firewood burns out, the air supply device drops lower and lower to the ash pan. After the firewood burns out, the boiler is cleaned of ash through the lower door.