Finishing the stove in the bath - the choice of material for decorative cladding. Protecting the walls of the bath from the heat of the stove: the rules for installing protective screens and skins How to line the stove in the steam room

The bath has always been for the Russians, where a person rests, as they say, “cleanses the spirit and body”, receives a charge of vivacity and health for the entire upcoming work week. But in order for the bath to justify the expectations placed on it, it needs a good one. It does not matter whether this heating unit is purchased ready-made or built by hand - the main thing is that it be able to create the necessary specific atmosphere in the premises and be as safe as possible in operation.

There are two the main ways of mounting this heater:

Placement of the entire structure in the steam room.

Each of the proposed options has its positive and negative sides, but it is desirable to decide on the choice of installation method even at the stage of building a bath. If it is planned to move the furnace firebox to an adjacent room, then when erecting a dividing wall between the steam room and the dressing room, an opening is immediately equipped in it. However, if it is decided to reconstruct an already finished bath, then it is quite acceptable to cut out the necessary window in the wall for taking the furnace door of the furnace into the dressing room.

Of course, one of the most important elements in the arrangement of the bath is the stove.

Metal stove lined with brick (in the steam room)

Before proceeding to study the instructions for proper brick laying, you should answer the main question: why do you need brick lining in a bathhouse, maybe your stove model does not require this action ?!

Compared to metal, brick retains heat much longer, which means that the oven will cool down much longer.

The stove in the bath plays no less important role than in the house. The effectiveness of all bath procedures and a comfortable atmosphere depend on how quickly it heats up and retains heat. It is unpleasant to be in a cold room, and in an overheated room - dangerous for health.

Today, a metal stove in a bath is already a standard equipment, without which it is difficult to imagine your favorite wellness procedure. Compared to other types of ovens, it has several advantages:

1. Ease of installation. It is easy to make with your own hands.
2. Easy and simple operation.
3. She melts quickly.
4. Has good traction.
5. High performance.
6. Economical in fuel consumption and democratic in price.

But in order to really appreciate all these advantages, you need to learn how to use it correctly!

Of course, no one will argue that a stone stove is ideal for a bath. But it needs to be melted for at least 5 hours so that it really begins to give off its heat, imagine how much firewood will go away during this time. And this, in turn, does not suit everyone. And the price of a brick structure will be many times higher than that of metal furnace lined with stone.

In addition, in order to fold a brick stove for a bath, you need to have the initial skills and knowledge of a stove-maker, since in this design you need to take into account many nuances that are invisible, but play a decisive role!

A metal furnace can be bought ready-made, and the lining will not entail large financial costs.

Even if the metal stove itself, bought ready-made in the store, is already a decoration for the steam room, it is better to make a small stone apron around it. This will greatly increase the efficiency and productivity of the furnace. Yes, and people in close proximity to metal structure, it will be more comfortable, because the metal “fries” more than stone or brick!

What are the necessary parameters should a metal stove for a bath have?

1. It should be small in size so as not to clutter up the space.
2. You should not choose too much power, as the sauna room is usually small. It will be difficult to control the optimal temperature.
3. The characteristics of the furnace must clearly comply with fire safety regulations.

In addition, it is necessary to take into account the place where the furnace is located. According to the norms of SNiP, the metal unit should be located at a distance of at least 15 cm from the wooden floors.

Most optimal way for the furnace of a metal furnace in a bath, there are small but frequent fuel deposits.

Why is it necessary to brick the oven in the steam room?

If up to this point you are still in doubt, check out this list:

1. The metal structure heats up very quickly, which does not allow the body to have time to adapt to the high temperature.
2. A metal stove cools down as quickly as it heats up. You have to constantly monitor the temperature, throwing up logs, which is not very economical.
3. The brick-lined material will not heat up and dry the air so quickly, which means that the atmosphere in the steam room will be more comfortable.
4. There is a high probability of burns on the walls of a metal structure. People sitting next to the stove will not be comfortable.

All these small flaws can be easily eliminated with the help of lining, which will increase the productivity of the stove, improve its design and neutralize harm to health, because people go to the bathhouse for recovery, and not vice versa!

This is the most optimal solution in terms of economy and labor costs - to combine the advantages of a metal and stone stove.

Factory metal stove for a bath "under the lining"

At the moment, the factories are producing such stoves that were originally intended for their further brick cladding, such a design is the golden mean that will make it possible to profitably equip an excellent steam room.

For lining the furnace, you need to use only these types of bricks:

1. red ceramic brick;
2. fireclay brick.

You can not search the forums, it makes no sense for us to deceive you! If you take any other brick, it may crack on its own or peel off the adhesive mixture, and you will need to shift it over and over again!

Do not take silicate brick. It is great for facing a house, but it is not suitable for lining a bath stove. Lime-based brick is simply not able to endure the constant temperature drop and high humidity in the steam room.

After a few weeks of operation, it will begin to collapse. Yes, and from the point of view, it is not suitable for decor and additional cladding will still be required.

A good option would be a refractory fireclay brick, which is just designed for sudden changes in temperature.

Outwardly, of course, it is inferior to red ceramic bricks, but this moment can be completely solved with a decorative finishing cladding.

If there are no remains of bricks in the household, it is better to buy a new one! Give preference to ceramic red brick. Its specific gravity is much lower than that of fireclay. He shows great technical properties, reliability and strength. And externally, the stove, lined with red ceramic bricks, will delight you for many years with its stylish authentic look.

The very process of lining a sauna stove with bricks is not very complicated, and if you follow exactly detailed instructions even a beginner can handle it.

The most common ways of lining a metal furnace in a bath

Given that stone cladding acts as a heat shield for a metal structure and does not take on the main heat, there are several options for cladding.

The cladding scheme largely depends on the functionality of the furnace. If the lining has a purely decorative function, then it can be made thick, into a whole brick.

If the stove has the function of a water heater, then the lining is made into a brick floor.

The gap between the stone screen and the metal body of the furnace is easy to calculate. For each kW of power, we add 2 cm to the standard 3 cm. If the furnace power exceeds 12 kW, then we do a maximum of 15-20 cm. Otherwise, the lining of the furnace will not fulfill its direct task.

Step-by-step instructions for work + photo

Before starting construction work on lining a metal furnace in a brick bath, you need to stock up on everything essential tool and materials.

Materials that will be needed for laying the furnace.

• Red solid ceramic brick (M-150.)
• Masonry mortar (sand, red oven clay).
• Foundation material (cement, crushed stone, sand).
• Ruberoid.
• Boards for creating formwork.
• Reinforcing mesh.

Tools that will be needed for laying the furnace.

• Building level.
• Owl shovel.
• Construction marker.
• Measuring tape (roulette).
• Construction slope.
• Trowel.
• Goniometer.

Before starting work, it is also necessary to determine the location of the metal furnace.

It can be placed in the very corner of the bath. This way you will reduce the consumption of bricks. And you can install a metal stove on a brick base, raising it above the floor by 50-60 cm.

If the stove is installed in a bathhouse from scratch, it is necessary to take care not only of building a foundation, but also of reliable protection of wooden floors.

To improve the fire safety of the premises, it is necessary wooden floor(walls, floor), near which the furnace is located, lay out with basalt slabs. In this case, the height of the plates should exceed the size of the structure by 40-50 cm.

For secure fastening, use self-tapping screws.

Step 1. We build the foundation for the furnace.

The foundation for the furnace is milestone construction work, on which the strength and durability of the entire structure depends. If at the construction stage of the bath, you have already paid great attention to the construction of the foundation for the stove, then for the cladding you will not need to additionally build another base.

If you are not sure about the strength of the old foundation, then it is better to spend time and build a new one, because the weight of the structure, after facing, will increase significantly.

Important! The foundation for the stove should in no case be connected with the main foundation of the bath. In case of structural shrinkage or other phenomena, the furnace base must not be deformed.

If the mass of the furnace together with the brickwork does not exceed 700 kg, then a separate foundation can not be erected.

If a metal furnace has already functioned in the bath, then it must be dismantled before starting work.

• After you have decided on the location of the stove, mark a rectangle on the floor with a building marker on which you want to cut the boards. Keep in mind that the size of the foundation should exceed the size of the oven by 10-15 cm on each side.

• Cut out the boards and put them aside.
• Now dig a pit 40 cm deep. Use a bayonet shovel for this work.
• We build a wooden formwork, which performs the function of a skeleton that forms the foundation. For formwork, you can use plywood boards, old floors that you have on the farm. Measure the length and width of the dug hole and cut the boards to this size. We connect the boards and lay inside the pit.
• Now we proceed to the waterproofing of the foundation.

This is the most important component of the work in the construction of the foundation. If the frozen, moisture-saturated soil comes into direct contact with the concrete base of the furnace, then the foundation may collapse over time.

• After the formwork is firmly installed and waterproofed, we pour a pillow, the task of which is to retain moisture. At the bottom of the pit we pour crushed stone of the middle fraction and sand (about 10-15 cm).
• We fill the foundation with cement mortar and lay the reinforcing mesh on top. Don't forget to check building level how level the foundation is. If necessary, correct the error.
• We make a technological break, waiting until the foundation has completely hardened. This may take 2-3 weeks. Take your time and do not start facing work ahead of time, as a damp foundation will not provide adequate strength.

Step 2. We make the base for the oven.

• After you have made sure that the foundation is completely frozen, you need to lay out the base in one layer of brick.
• Check the level of the masonry with a building level.
• We create a waterproofing of the base with roofing material.
• We lay an iron sheet on top, which should exceed the size of the brickwork by 10 cm around the perimeter.
• We put a metal furnace on top and once again carefully check the horizon with a level. So that after completing the work you do not have to clean the oven from the solution, wrap it with polyethylene.

Step 3. Prepare the solution.

The ideal solution for lining a metal furnace is a mixture of clay and cement. There is no exact proportion, to be guided here, rather, it is worth the consistency. In appearance, it should resemble thick sour cream, without lumps and pebbles.

The stove-makers are advised to take an equal amount of clay and cement, adding about 30% of river sand.

The solution for facing the sauna stove is easier to prepare than for the usual laying of the stove. The main condition is to achieve a homogeneous mass.

To test how good a masonry mortar is, take a small amount of the mixture and apply it to the brick with a trowel.

The solution should not slip and flow from the brick. If the density is not enough, then you can add a small amount of sand to the mixture.

Step 4. Preparing the brick for facing.

Measure the amount of brick that you need for the first stage of work. Select a portion of red ceramic brick, clean it well and soak for 12 hours in water.

This is necessary so that it does not absorb moisture and mortar during masonry.

If you are using old brick then clean it well before laying.

Step 5. Furnace lining.

There are several masonry options: solid well or lattice. The lattice version looks more decorative, but due to a large number holes, the effectiveness of the heat shield is significantly reduced.

If the furnace body is round, then the masonry must be carried out in strict accordance with the shape of the furnace. This, of course, will require much more effort and skill, but the ordering technique itself will not change.

The distance between the metal body of the furnace and the stone should be at least 4-5 cm, and there is no need to make any jumpers or place spacers between the two materials. When heated, the metal will expand, which in turn will put pressure on the brick, or the furnace body itself may be damaged.

Here it is very important to calculate the optimal distance between the brick wall and the metal body of the furnace. If you make it too small, the brick will quickly become unusable and crack. If you make it large, it will interfere with the high-quality heating of the stove and there will not be the required temperature in the steam room.

The average oven size is 13-15 rows. Better job divided into 2 stages. On the first day, lay 7-8 rows and leave overnight. On the second day, check the structure for shrinkage and work the remaining rows.

The thickness of the laying is made in the brick floor. This will be enough for the stove to accumulate heat and quickly warm up the room.

Laying bricks for the purpose of facing a metal furnace is no different from laying a conventional furnace.

• We start each row from the corner, and after laying it, we check the horizon with a building level. To clearly observe the laying angle, use a goniometer or a plumb line.
• With a trowel, carefully apply the mortar to the brick and immediately remove the excess mixture. Make sure that no solution remains on the inside of the heat shield. Otherwise, it will dry out, and this will reduce the air circulation inside the structure.
• Lay a reinforcing mesh on the second row to stiffen the structure. And tie the 2-1 and 3rd row together with wire.
• The second row involves air gaps through which hot air will come out. It will be enough just to leave two gaps in ½ bricks for this. Repeat this on rows 6 and 8. Too many of these ventilation holes do not do this, as this may reduce the effectiveness of the heat shield. Two at the bottom and at the top will be enough.
• We lay out the third row in the same way as the first, but we observe a checkerboard pattern. Maintain a seam of 5 mm.
• Depending on which row you will have a hole for the firebox door and blower, we lay the row on a metal corner. To stiffen the structure, it will not be superfluous to strengthen this row by tying it with metal wire. Take into account the movement of the firebox door, which in no case should touch the walls when opened.
• The last row can be made arbitrarily, decorating with a ladder or simply pouring stones on it.

Some people prefer to finish laying bricks at the level of the slab where the coals are located. This allows you to admire the hot coals, and some close the chimney with masonry.

The order does not change from this, so choose the most optimal option for yourself.

Step 6. The first heating of the furnace.

After you have laid out a stone well around a metal furnace, it is very important to prepare it for further use.

Kindling the furnace

No need to immediately give the maximum temperature. Run 2-3 test fires using the minimum amount of wood and without bringing the stove to the maximum temperature.

This will allow you to dry the solution well and the oven will last you a long time, and the bath will delight you with a good temperature and a cozy atmosphere.

Video: how to overlay a metal furnace with your own hands - a master class

What is the meaning of a bath for a Russian person? It's not just a place to wash. This is a place where a person rests, can afford to relax. We can say that the bath is one of the favorite places to relax. Finishing the stove in the bath is not the last place.

Bath heart

What is the heart, the basis of any bath? In the bath, steam and high temperature are important. To reach them, you need to build a furnace. It is she who is the key element of the entire bath complex.

Very important Special attention pay attention to the compliance of the sauna stove with the following requirements:

• resistance to high temperature;
• the possibility of continuous continuous operation;
• rapid heating of the room.

When building a furnace, special attention should be paid to the materials for its manufacture. All further work of the bath will depend on their quality.

What can be the lining

The stove in the bath should not only provide the maximum level of heat, but also have an aesthetic appearance. Maybe, best solution will be the lining of the oven.

Furnace finishing can be carried out using the following materials:

1. Tile.
2. Brick.
3. A natural stone.
4. Fake diamond.
5. Steel case.
6. Tiles.

Each of the presented materials has its own characteristics and characteristics.

Tile

This type of material is one of the most popular, due to its affordable cost and ease of installation.

Facing the stove in the bath can be made with the following types of tiles:

• Clinker tiles. It is made from clay with the addition of energy melters, dye and fireclay.
• Majolica tiles. It is a pressed material coated with a special compound (glaze). This type of tile has a bright and rich color. Also often a pattern and ornament is applied to the tile.
• Terracotta tiles. Its composition is similar to "Majolica". However, this type of tile does not have a special glaze coating. Differs in the high level of durability. By its composition, this type of tile is more porous than others. The shape of the tile is rounded. That creates an atmosphere of comfort in the room.
• Marble tiles. Differs in durability, durability. Appearance is quite noble. Creates the effect of comfort in the room. This type of tile has no drawbacks.

Brick

The most economical and easy-to-execute option for finishing a sauna stove. A brick-lined oven has the following advantages:

• heating speed;
• keeping warm for a long time;
• the furnace does not collapse under the influence of moisture.

Also, using brick as a facing material, you can save a lot of money.

Stone

The main advantage when facing a sauna stove with stone (natural or artificial) is a noble and aesthetic appearance. The bath, the stove of which is lined with stone, can rightfully be considered an extra-class building.

The following types of natural and artificial stones can be used as facing material:

• porcelain stoneware;
• coil;
• granite;
• marble.

Using the steel case

This type of cladding is the installation of a metal frame on the surface of the furnace and closing it with steel shields.

The steel case retains heat well and provides an optimal level of heating. However, this type of lining is unsafe for human health. During the operation of the furnace, the steel case is also heated, touching which is fraught with burns.

Plastering the walls of the sauna stove

The original Russian version of the cladding is the plastering of the walls of the sauna stove. The easiest and cheapest way.

The plastering of the furnace takes place in two stages:

1. Plastering walls to remove dirt and dust.
2. Re-plastering to level the walls and remove dents and chips.

After the process of plastering the oven is completed, it can be whitewashed with lime.

The use of tiles is the old fashioned way oven linings. This type of finish gives the stove an original and unusual appearance. The sauna stove becomes not a part of the room, but a separate element of the interior with its own individuality.

Note! This method of cladding is quite complicated. Only a specialist can perform it, however, such a lining is reliable and durable.

A sauna stove lined with tiles, in addition to its unusual appearance, has a higher level of heat transfer compared to stoves lined with other materials.

There are many options for lining sauna stoves. Work with each of the presented materials should be carried out with the utmost care. Materials should be selected high-quality and durable. In this case, the sauna stove will delight its owners for decades.

Video

This video demonstrates the decoration of the furnace in the bath with Terracotta tiles:

During the kindling of the bath, the surface of the furnace is heated up to 300-400°C. At the same time, it begins to emit infrared rays and itself becomes a source of heating. The running heat is distributed throughout the steam room, but first of all it hits the walls adjacent to the stove. If the walls are wooden, then under the influence of high temperatures, their charring begins. And there is already close to the fire! The only truly effective way to insulate wooden walls from heat is to create protective screens and casings from non-combustible materials in the bath.

When is protection needed?

The need to install protective skins and screens does not always arise. If a fireproof distance is maintained between the stove and the nearest combustible surface, additional protection is not needed. At this distance, the IR rays scatter, weaken, and the amount that the wooden wall receives can no longer damage it.

It is believed that the safe distance from the wall to brick oven(laying in a quarter of a brick) is at least 0.32 m, from the wall to the metal furnace (not lined) - at least 1 m. For a metal furnace lined with brick or fireclay from the inside, the distance is reduced to 0.7 m.

Thus, compliance with fire distances is more possible in large baths, where the issue of saving space is not relevant. In family steam rooms, where every centimeter of space counts, installing a stove 0.3-1 m from the nearest walls is impractical. In this case, the safety distances established according to the norms must be reduced with the help of screens and skins.

Protective screens near (around) the furnace

Protective screens are insulation shields that cover side surfaces ovens and reduce the intensity of thermal radiation. Screens are metal and brick. As a rule, they are used for metal furnaces.

Method #1 - metal screens

The most common protective screens are factory-made steel or cast iron sheets. They are installed around the furnace, at a distance of 1-5 cm from the walls of the firebox. Depending on the need to insulate one or another side of the furnace, you can purchase side or front (front) screens. Many metal furnaces are initially made with protective screens in the form protective cover.

Protective screens reduce the temperature of external metal surfaces to 80-100°C and, accordingly, reduce the fireproof distance to 50 cm. The total distance from the firebox to the wall (together with a gap of 1-5 cm) will be 51-55 cm.

Installing protective screens is not difficult. Due to the presence of legs, metal shields are easily attached to the floor with bolts.

Method #2 - brick screens

A brick screen can cover all the side surfaces of a metal furnace, representing its outer skin. Then the stove will be in a masonry casing. In another case, a brick screen is a wall that separates the furnace and the flammable surface.

For laying a protective screen, a full-bodied fireclay brick is used. The binder is cement or clay mortar. It is recommended to lay in half-brick (thickness 120 mm). But, with a lack of material, it is possible to allow the wall to be made in a quarter of a brick (60 mm thick), although in this case thermal insulation properties screen will be reduced by half.

Small holes are left in the lower part of the shield (sometimes with furnace doors) for air convection between the brick wall and the stove.

Brick walls of the screen must end at least 20 cm above the top surface of the furnace. Sometimes laying is carried out to the very ceiling.

The brick screen is installed not close to the walls of the furnace, the optimal distance is 5-15 cm. The acceptable distance from the brickwork to the flammable wall is 5-15 cm. Thus, the use of a brick screen allows you to reduce the distance from the furnace to the wooden wall to 22-42 cm (oven - ventilation gap 5-15 cm - brick 12 cm - ventilation gap 5-15 cm - wall).

Protective non-combustible cladding for walls

The walls adjacent to the red-hot walls of the furnace are subject to spontaneous combustion. To prevent their overheating, special skins are used, consisting of heat-insulating and non-combustible materials.

Option #1 - reflective skins

Effective are sheathings consisting of a combination of non-combustible thermal insulation and metal sheets. At the same time, on wooden surface thermal insulation is attached, which is covered with a stainless steel sheet from above. Some use galvanizing for these purposes, but, according to some reports, when heated, it can release harmful substances. It is better not to take risks and purchase a stainless steel sheet.

For greater efficiency the metal sheet of the screen should be well polished. The mirror surface contributes to the reflection of heat rays from the wooden surface and, accordingly, prevents its heating. In addition, a stainless steel sheet, directing infrared rays back into the steam room, turns hard radiation into softer, better perceived by a person.

As thermal insulation for stainless steel, you can fix:

• Basalt wool - it has high thermal insulation properties, it is absolutely safe when used in a bath. Possesses the increased hygroscopicity, does not burn.
• Basalt cardboard - thin sheets basalt fibre. It is used as fireproof, sound and heat insulating material.
• Asbestos cardboard is a sheet refractory heat insulator. It has high strength and durability, protects flammable surfaces from ignition.
• Minerite - non-combustible sheets (plates), specially made for shielding stoves, fireplaces, flammable surfaces in baths and saunas.

A popular example of sheathing using a metal sheet is such a “pie”: wall - ventilation gap (2-3 cm) - insulation (1-2 cm) - stainless steel sheet. The distance from the wooden wall to the stove is at least 38 cm (SNiP 41-01-2003).

Ceramic bushings are used to fasten the sheathing to the wall. They do not heat up and allow you to form ventilation gaps between the thermal insulation and the wall.

If the distance between the wooden wall and the stove is minimal, then the sheathing is made of two layers of refractory insulation, for example, mineralite. In this case, the sheets are fixed through ceramic bushings with a gap of 2-3 cm. The top sheet is covered with stainless steel.

Option #2 - sheathing with cladding

Of course, protective sheathing with stainless steel perfectly protects wooden walls from heat and fire. But it can spoil the impression of the most expensive finish. Therefore, if the steam room is designed in a decorative style, the refractory lining is masked with heat-resistant tiles. The tile is laid on heat-resistant glue, for example, produced by Terracotta.

The best materials for wall cladding near the stove:

• Terracotta tiles - made of fired clay. Differs in durability, heat resistance, durability. Terracotta tiles can be matte or glazed (majolica) and range in color from pastel yellow to brick red.
• Clinker tiles - also made of clay, outwardly similar to facing bricks. Unlike terracotta, clinker tiles are denser. The color scheme covers almost all colors, ranging from white to black, including greens and blues that are unusual for clay.
• Tiles are a type of ceramic tile. It usually has an embossing in the form of a pattern or ornament on the front surface.
• Porcelain stoneware is a heat-resistant, durable tile. Depending on the method of processing the front surface, the tile can imitate natural stone, brick, wood. IN color scheme- all natural shades, from white to black.
• Talcochlorite is a grayish or greenish rock. Possesses fire resistance, water resistance, durability.

Fixing refractory tiles directly to the walls will not have the effect of thermal insulation. The wall will still heat up, which is fraught with spontaneous combustion. Therefore, the tile is used only as an element of the protective "pie" of the following design: wall - ventilation gap (2-3 cm) - refractory sheet material - tile. It is recommended to maintain a minimum of 15-20 cm from the tiles to the walls of the furnace.

Any material from this list can be used as a refractory element in sheathing:

• Refractory drywall (GKLO) - drywall, supplemented with fiberglass fibers. Resists thermal effects without structural deformations.
• Minerite is a cement-fiber board, absolutely non-combustible. Minerite plates are moisture resistant, do not rot, do not decompose.
• Glass-magnesium sheet (SML) - a material in the form of plates, made on the basis of magnesia binder and fiberglass. It has heat and sound insulation properties, does not collapse under the influence of water and temperature changes.

The protective sheathing with the obligatory observance of the ventilation gap has a very low coefficient of heat absorption, so the wall under it practically does not heat up. In addition, the use of lining allows you to mask the protective "pie" to withstand the finishing of the steam room in the same style.

During melting or using the bath, the surface of the oven becomes very hot, the temperature can reach 400 degrees and above. In this case, the stove itself will be a source of strong radiation of infrared rays, which quickly spread over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe bath and heat all its walls, but especially those located near the stove.

Due to the very high temperature, the walls of the bath, made of wood, may begin to char, which in the future will lead to their ignition. To isolate wooden walls and ceilings from fire, fire-retardant compositions or chemicals fire protection. Most effective ways to protect the walls of the bath, including wooden ones, from heat, a method such as shielding using non-combustible materials is recognized.

When the walls of the bath need to be protected from fire

The distance between the stove and the adjacent wall should be safe, that is, it should be enough so that the infrared rays less strongly affect the surface, and there is no fire in the bath.

SNiP III-G.11-62. Heating furnaces, smoke and ventilation ducts of residential and public buildings. Rules for the production and acceptance of work. Download file

SNiP III-G.11-62

The safe distance between the bath stove and the walls is determined on the basis of fire safety standards SNiP III-G.11-62 for the operation of stoves installed in rooms with walls or ceilings prone to burning:

SNiP 2.04.05-91. Heating. Ventilation and air conditioning. Download file

SNiP 2.04.05-91

Based on SNIP 2.04.05-91, a safe distance is set from the top of the stove to the ceiling:

• with a ceiling protected by a 10 mm thick steel sheet laid on asbestos cardboard or on plaster laid on a steel mesh and overlapping the oven from 3 rows of bricks - not less than 250 mm,
• with a protected ceiling and a thermally insulated ceiling of the top of a metal furnace, not less than 800 mm,
• with an unprotected ceiling and a stove with an overlap of 2 rows of bricks - not less than 1 m.
• with an unprotected ceiling and a non-insulated ceiling - no less than 1.2 m.

It is clear that a safe distance of 1 m between the stove and the wall can only be ensured in baths with a large area. In private baths, which have a small area, every centimeter of usable area is saved, so the stoves are placed at a short distance from the walls, and a brick screen is built to protect against heat or metal sheets are used as sheathing, as well as other non-combustible materials that significantly reduce the allowable safe distance.

Protective screens

The walls of the baths are usually protected from thermal infrared radiation by protective screens. As such screens, brickwork or metal shields are used, coupled with insulating materials. The protection is installed on the side surfaces of sauna heaters and/or on nearby surfaces.

Metal protective screen

Most often in private baths for protection interior partitions from high temperature and fire, an ordinary barrier is mounted, constructed from metal sheets, which are installed near the furnace (a five-centimeter gap is left between the surfaces of the casing and the furnace). Metal screens are mainly lateral or frontal. A protective screen made of any metal significantly reduces the thermal effect of the furnace on the surface of the walls. Thanks to this metal protection, the temperature at the wall decreases, which significantly reduces the safety distance.

Technical characteristics of Teplodar screens and installation scheme

Metal screens can be mounted on legs using anchor bolts to secure the structure to the floor. Commercially available metal reflective screens are already equipped with mounting frames for vertical fixation.

Protective screen made of red kiln bricks

Brick barriers often cover the side surfaces of the stove, making the outer skin like a casing. In this way, combustible surfaces and a hot heater are separated.

From time immemorial, there has been a tradition to build stoves from brick or stone. Such a design heated up for a long time, but at the same time it radiated soft heat, and subsequently cooled down for a long time. Modern metal furnaces quickly heat up, emit hard infrared radiation, and the hot walls of the furnace burn out oxygen in the bath. In addition, a metal furnace is more flammable. In view of these aspects, it can be concluded that it is advisable to combine masonry or brickwork with steel structures.

A solid fireclay brick is well suited for the construction of a protective casing. A mixture of cement or kneaded on refractory clay will serve as a good bond for him. Masonry screen made of fireclay bricks, according to the value of the safe distance, is made about 12 cm thick (0.5 bricks) or 6.5 cm (0.25, respectively). However, expensive fireclay bricks are very rarely used in private baths to protect wooden walls, most often preference is given to red stove.

Before finishing (lining) a metal furnace with a red furnace brick, a foundation is first built.

Be sure to take into account: if the stove is located near the bearing wall, then there must be a distance of at least 5 cm between the foundation of the stove and the foundation of the building. .

The surface of the foundation should be 15-20 cm below the finished floor of the bath. After installing the foundation (it must be allowed to dry for 30 days), a moisture-proof material is laid on it in 2 layers - roofing felt or roofing felt. Then, on clay cement mortar they lay a brick in 2 rows, shifting the bricks among themselves so that the masonry seams are covered with a brick lying on top.

This completes the foundation work.

On top of the foundation, a base protecting from heat should be made, consisting of:

• a sheet of metal fixed on top of a layer of heat-insulating material;
• two rows of bricks laid on a wooden floor;
• heat-resistant ceramic tiles.

Before overlaying an iron stove with bricks, you need to prepare the right mortar for masonry. The best option for brickwork around a metal furnace would be a simple clay mortar (raw materials should be mined at a depth of more than two meters) with sand. The mixing process is not complicated. The clay is first soaked, then, already soaked, it is carefully rubbed through a sieve. The sand is sifted and mixed with soaked clay. The mortar in terms of viscosity and plasticity should be such that it does not squeeze out of the joints during laying. You can add 5-10% cement to the solution for strength.

The foundation of the protective screen can be made in a quarter of a brick, be sure to leave small holes in its lower and middle part - special windows that create air circulation between the brick screen and the installed stove (sometimes they are supplied furnace doors). In this case, the bath will heat up very quickly.

The stove is best lined with half a brick. If the screen is made into a brick, then it will warm up for a very long time.

Attention! It is very important to take into account the requirement for fire safety - the distance between the walls of a metal furnace and brickwork should be 3 - 10 cm. In order for the brick screen to be more durable, a reinforcing mesh must be laid through a row, or even in each row. The verticality of the corners must be checked with a plumb line, and the laying of the rows with a building level must be checked for horizontality.

A brick screen can be laid out up to the ceiling. The main condition is that its height must be greater than the height of the stove by at least 20 cm.

For more reliable protection of wooden walls from high temperatures, the permissible distance between the wall and the built brick screen has been established. It should be less than 15 cm, but more than 5 cm, while the distance from the stove to any of the walls can be 20 - 40 cm.

Flame retardant lining

To protect the walls from a red-hot furnace, sheathings are often used, consisting of various special heat-insulating materials.

Stainless reflective lining

Special non-combustible thermal insulation or protective sheathing is stainless steel sheets that perfectly protect the wooden surface of walls in private baths from fires. To build such a simple screen, heat-insulating material is first attached to the wall, and only then a stainless steel sheet is attached on top.

To increase the effectiveness of the skin, it is desirable to polish a sheet of stainless metal well to a mirror finish. The mirror surface of the stainless steel significantly improves the reflection of the heat rays emanating from the stove, preventing the wooden walls from heating up. In addition, by redirecting hard infrared rays back, the mirror stainless metal will turn them into soft and safe for people to perceive.

Metal screens for a bath are easy to do with your own hands. The main thing is not to forget about using a heat insulator between the wall and the sheet of metal (minerite or asbestos cardboard will do)

Sheathing with cladding

The stainless steel mirror lining looks beautiful and perfectly protects the walls from fire, however, in some cases it may not be appropriate in the bath and over time the mirror surface will become dull, will not be able to reflect the rays with high quality and will not look as beautiful as originally. Heat-resistant cladding will help to solve the design problem in the bath for many years, for laying which heat-resistant glue is used on brick cladding.

For facing walls located next to the stove, you can use the following heat-resistant materials:

Attention! Any tile that is used for wall cladding cannot provide complete thermal insulation, it is only one of the components in a protective structure consisting of a refractory material and a small (2-3 cm) ventilation gap between this refractory material and the wall.

As a refractory material, you can also use a shield made of fire-resistant gypsum board, or fiberglass, which will not deform under the action of heat, from a fireproof cement-fiber board - mineralite or from a special tile material - glass-magnesium sheet.

Of course, the best option for cladding wooden walls is brick cladding. With such protection of the walls from high temperatures, the stove can be placed almost close to the wall. However, it is not always possible to use a new even brick for masonry and lay beautiful masonry around the stove. Sometimes a previously used brick is chosen for a protective screen in order to ennoble it with beautiful material in the future.

Facing a brick screen - step by step instructions

It is possible to ennoble and make the appearance of any brickwork more aesthetic with the help of a refractory and durable natural material.

Terracotta tiles, also referred to as "terracotta" for short, are very heat resistant. ceramic product from kaolin clay, fired at a temperature of about 1000 degrees. This wonderful material is absolutely non-combustible, it does not change its properties even from high (up to 1300 degrees) and low (up to -25 degrees) temperatures, does not change its beautiful appearance from the action of water or sunlight.

To finish the brick protective fence, Terracotta heat-resistant materials will be required: glue, paste, as well as finishing grout, which will fill the seams.

You will also need a drywall sheet (choose 9.5 mm GKL) for spacer plates, which must first be cut into small squares.

Tools. We stock the following supplies:

In advance, you need to dilute it in a bucket with water and knead with a mixer convenient and very reliable in terms of fire safety reinforced adhesive mixture "Terracotta".

Initially, screen bricks are laid around the furnace in a classic dressing, carefully removing excess mortar.

Attention! After finishing the masonry of the draft wall, it is imperative to wait 24 hours for the masonry to dry and gain primary strength.

Terracotta flagstone "Classic" is an amazing stone in its unique beauty. It looks very rich and massive.

It can be easily sawn with a diamond wheel or split with a hammer and then, spreading a thick layer of Terracotta mastic on it, stick it on the brickwork. Terracotta flagstone is heavier than terracotta tiles, but much lighter than natural stone.

When facing with flagstone, chopped drywall squares are used as inter-tile spacing and a tile movement fixer. The rough chipped edge of the limestone will not allow a gap of 10 mm to be maintained everywhere and this will further give the stone-like cladding a natural feel.

Having brought the process of styling the wall under a wild stone to perfection, you can proceed to tiling. Laying rectangular terracotta tiles on a brick is necessary, starting with the laying of corner elements, thanks to which the decorative cladding will look like a classic oven masonry.

Corner elements must be glued from the bottom up, while the horizontals of the corners should be aligned only according to the level.

Attention! For gluing and setting of Terracotta mastic, at least 10 hours or more must pass.

After the mastic dries, you need to remove the drywall squares inserted as clamps and proceed first with filling, and then with jointing between the plates.

For this work, you will need a heat-resistant wide-joint grout, which is a unique white composition designed to fill joints between plates of different decorative surfaces, which may be exposed to high temperatures.

The grout must be poured with water and stirred with a mixer to get a homogeneous solution, similar in its consistency to thick sour cream.

Attention! The time to use the grout solution is about 1 hour.

It is necessary to fill the tile joints with a construction gun, the nozzle of which must be cut obliquely so that an oblong hole is formed.

The tube of the gun is filled with the prepared grout solution using a narrow spatula.

Then, carefully inserting the nozzle, it follows, smoothly and with low intensity, advancing construction pistol along the length of the joints, squeeze out the grout and fill the joints so that the level of the filled grout is aligned with the level of the tile. Seams between slabs can be filled vertically or horizontally.

Attention! Special grout for joints should not get on the front surface of the finish. If it so happened that the mixture nevertheless got on the decorative lining, then the composition should not be removed immediately, but it is necessary to wait at least 2 hours until it hardens a little and then it will be possible to easily remove the contaminating fragment. The dried mixture must not be removed from the plates in a tangential direction or smeared.

After completing all the work on filling the joints, the grout will “ripen”, acquiring stucco compliance or slight crumbling after 2 hours. After this time, you can confidently proceed to the final part - the process of distributing the frozen grout and leveling it in the tile joints - decorative stitching, the purpose of which is to give the surface to be decorated an attractive look.

To begin with, from the seams, using a simple flat screwdriver, transversely deepened into the seam, it is necessary to remove the excess amount of grout slowly maintaining a constant depth. To remove excess grout, you can also use a small diameter metal ring, with which you can evenly remove the grout, like shavings.

The remaining grout in the joint can be gently spread with light pressure from a gloved finger, giving the grout the appearance flat surface without grooves and roughness.

The work on facing the heat shield of the brick walls is completed.

The first furnace furnace in the bath can be started only 24 hours after all necessary work with grout between tiles.

Video - Heat-resistant screens for sauna stoves. Part 1

Video - Heat-resistant screens for sauna stoves. Part 2

Video - Installation of a sauna stove with a protective screen

Video - Protecting the walls of the bath with terracotta tiles

Video - Protecting the wooden walls of the bath from heat

How to protect the walls of the bath from the heat of the oven - technologies and materials

When planning the construction of a bath, it is important to remember about creating security inside the room. First of all, it concerns fire safety. By melting the sauna, the stove can be heated up to 300-400°C, which is much higher than the combustion temperature of wood, from which the sauna is most often built.

All the heat from the stove is released into the room, however, the main heat is absorbed by the nearby walls, which leads to their charring, as well as ignition. It is extremely important to avoid such consequences, so in this article we will describe in detail how to isolate the stove in the bath from the wall. See also: "Heat sauna stoves - types and design features."

Do you need protection in your bath?

Protecting the walls of the bath from the heat of the furnace is not always required. For example, you can provide a distance between the wall and the stove, which will allow you to achieve fire safety without additional protection. The fact is that at a certain distance, the IR rays emitted by the furnace begin to scatter, which significantly reduces their impact on nearby surfaces.

The distance from the stove to the wall in the bath varies depending on the type of stove:

• 0.32 m or more - distance for a stone oven with a quarter-brick laying;
• 0.7 m or more - the required distance between the wall and the metal furnace lined from the inside with fireclay or brick;
• 1 m or more is a safe distance for an unlined metal furnace.

At first glance, it seems that creating such a distance is much easier than setting additional protection, however, this is fundamentally not true. Keeping a safe distance is advisable only in large steam rooms, but in small private baths, the stove, including indents, will occupy most of the room, so it will be much easier to use insulation.

Protective screens

Speaking about fire safety in the bath, first of all, it is worth highlighting the protective screens that are used to isolate the stove in the bath from the walls.

Protective screens are special panels made of non-combustible materials (metal or brick), which significantly reduce the intensity of heat radiation. Most often, this method of insulation is used for metal furnaces. See also: "How to make a screen for a sauna stove - options and solutions from an expert."

In the construction market, metal protective screens made of steel or cast iron are the most common. Many manufacturers of iron furnaces provide thermal insulation for their products, providing them with special casings.

Choosing protective screens is quite simple, because depending on the insulated side of the oven, you can purchase a front or side panel. Installation of such screens will also not cause difficulties, because the manufacturer provides special legs that are easy to attach to the floor.

Next, it is worth talking about the installation rules. The panels themselves are installed at a distance of 1-5 cm from the furnace, however, a distance is also required from the adjacent wall. Protective screens reduce the radiated temperature to 80-100°C, which allows them to be installed 50 cm from a parallel wall.

brick screens

The fencing of the stove in the steam room can also be made of brick. A brick screen can be installed on all sides of a metal furnace, forming a protective sheathing. Also, such a screen can only be installed between the combustible surface and the furnace, representing a protective wall.

Having decided to lay such protection, use a full-bodied fireclay brick, for which you can use clay or cement mortar to bind. Usually, half-brick (120 mm) masonry is used, however, due to a lack of material, quarter-brick masonry (60 mm) is suitable. Using the last laying method, remember that the thermal insulation properties of such a screen are reduced, so the distance to the wall should be increased.

Such a finish iron oven in the bath is also performed subject to certain rules:

• In the lower part of the shield, it is necessary to provide special openings that will ensure air convection between the furnace wall and the brick;
• The height of the brick wall should exceed the height of the oven by 20 cm, but often it is led to the very ceiling;
• Observe the distance between the oven and brick screens of 5-15 cm;
• There should also be a distance of 5-15 cm between a flammable surface, for example, a wall and a brick protection.

Flame retardant wall cladding

The second option for protecting walls from fire is special sheathing, which is made from non-combustible materials. The working element of this protection, which reflects infrared rays dangerous for combustible surfaces, is a reflective material, for example, stainless steel.

There are also options for decorative finishes that preserve the aesthetic purity of your bath. One of the advantages of this method is that protecting the walls in the bath from the stove will not only avoid fire, but also keep the heat inside the room. See also: "Finishing the stove in the bath - the choice of material for decorative cladding."

Reflective wall cladding

You can assemble this version of the protective sheathing yourself. To do this, you will need a non-combustible thermal insulation material, which will be discussed in more detail below, as well as a stainless steel sheet.

Stainless steel can be replaced with a cheaper option - galvanization, however, when heated, it can release harmful substances, so we strongly do not recommend using it. Getting started, fix the insulation on the wall, after which, close it with a metal sheet.

To make such thermal insulation for the bath furnace as productive as possible, polish the metal surface. This will allow you to better reflect the IR rays back into the steam room, moreover, the reflected rays will be better perceived by a person.

As thermal insulation, you can use the following materials:

• Basalt wool absolutely safe for the bath. It retains heat well, in addition, it has a high hygroscopicity and does not burn at all;
• Basalt cardboard- a good option for a bath. It is a thin sheet of basalt fiber, which perfectly retain heat and do not burn;
• Asbestos cardboard- a strong and durable heat insulator, which is also suitable for a bath;
• Minerite for a bath It's also great stuff. Non-combustible plates are specially made for shielding hot surfaces in baths and saunas;

Before sheathing a wall near the stove in the bath, familiarize yourself with the correct technology for its construction. The most important thing is the order of installation and compliance with the gaps.

The ideal design has the following structure:

1. Wall;
2. Ventilation gap of 2-3 cm;
3. Insulation 1-2 cm;
4. Stainless steel sheet.

Remember that the total distance from the wall to the stove must be more than 38 cm. For fixing, use ceramic bushings to help form ventilation gaps. If the distance between the wall and the furnace is minimal, then it is necessary to use two layers of minerite plates, between which a gap must also be left.

Sheathing with cladding

This option is practically the same as the previous one, however, if you don’t know how to decorate the wall behind the stove in the steam room so as to preserve the beauty of the room, while creating safe conditions then this option is definitely for you. Protect the walls by using heat-resistant decorative materials laid on top of the insulation.

Finishing around the stove in the bath can be done with the following materials:

• Clinker tiles made from baked clay. It is characterized by high strength, heat resistance and durability. One of the advantages this option is also rich color palette, which includes not only black and white tones, but also blue or green colors;
• Terracotta tiles also made of clay, but it is inferior to the previous version in terms of density and the number of possible colors;
• Talcochlorite is a good option for lining for a bath, made of rocks of green and grayish shades. It has good heat resistance and strength;
• Tiles- ordinary ceramic tiles, characterized by good heat resistance and a pattern on their surface;
• Porcelain stoneware- heat-resistant tiles imitating natural stone or wood.

The tile will not dissipate heat, protecting the walls from fire, so it cannot be mounted directly on the wall. We recommend using the following structure:

1. Wall;
2. Gap for ventilation;
3. Refractory material;
4. Tiles (the distance from the tile to the oven must be at least 15 cm).

Such a “pie” will allow you to create a reliable protection of the walls from heat, while maintaining the beauty of the room.

One of the following options can be used as a refractory material:

• Fireproof drywall- made from the same materials as ordinary drywall, but with the use of fiberglass;
• Minerite slabs for a bath - absolutely not exposed to moisture and heat.
• glass-magnesium sheet- plates made of fiberglass and magnesia binder. Excellent resistance to heat, moisture and noise.

This option will perfectly protect your bath from the possibility of fire, as well as insulate the room, while maintaining its aesthetic component.

How to sheathe the inside of the wall in the bath

The question of how to sheathe the walls in the bath has its own specifics, which is associated with the peculiarities of the bath conditions. The bath in relation to the interior is significantly different from any other premises, for example, from a residential building. Naturalness in design and performance characteristics take the leading positions.

The problem of how to sheathe the walls in the bath inside is complicated by the fact that a number of materials are simply dangerous to use at elevated temperatures.

What are the specifics of bath wall cladding

The classic Russian bath has several rooms with different functions and conditions:

• The dressing room is the first room in the bathhouse, into which the door from the street enters and from which the door to the steam room exits. Thus, although a high temperature is not specially maintained in the dressing room, heated steam from the steam room enters here. Here, as a rule, the entrance door of the combustion chamber of the furnace is located, where firewood is loaded. This element also contributes to an increase in temperature. At the same time, the periodically opening door to the outside contributes to the penetration of frosty air in winter. In other words, a characteristic condition operates in the dressing room: a sharp temperature drop.
• The main room is the steam room, where the sauna stove is located. In the steam room during the bathing procedure, a large concentration of superheated steam is maintained at a temperature of up to 70 degrees and a humidity of more than 60%. Added to this is hitting the walls. hot water. A furnace creates a particularly dangerous zone: the wall at the place of its installation and next to the passing chimney pipe must have increased heat resistance and be fireproof. An important requirement for any materials used to equip a steam room is the absence harmful secretions when exposed to high temperatures.

• The washing room (if there is one in the bath) has an entrance to the steam room, through which steam penetrates. A certain high humidity is provided by a washing container or a shower, but the temperature usually does not exceed 30 degrees. A nook stands somewhat apart, where a shower cabin is equipped - here there is a direct effect of water.
• Finally, the rest room. Its design differs little from the improvement of ordinary premises. However, one should not forget about the possibility of steam penetration, contact of the wall covering with a damp body and wet clothes. In general, in this room, preference is already given to interior arrangements that set you up for relaxation and rest.

Features of the arrangement of the walls of the steam room

Wall cladding in the steam room should include such mandatory elements as thermal insulation, steam protection and waterproofing. Mineral wool or expanded polystyrene is usually used as thermal insulation.

Waterproofing is made of polyethylene film or roofing material. For reliable protection of walls from the action of steam, polymer films coated with aluminum foil are used. Such puff protection protects the walls from operational factors and allows you to save heat and steam in the steam room.

The outer covering of the walls of the steam room is almost always made of wooden parts. The most popular is the lining, which is a wooden plank. They are used for lining and inner surface walls.

When you decide to sheathe the walls in a steam bath with clapboard, you need to take into account the material from which it is made. Coniferous wood should not be used. The fact is that when exposed to superheated steam, resinous substances are released, which are not always useful for the human body. In addition, hot resin can burn you. Use better wood hardwood with less resin. Moreover, the resin of trees such as linden or birch even has a healing effect on the human body and is recommended for certain diseases.

When cladding walls in a steam room, linden and ash are considered the most optimal. In addition to the safety of secretions, they do not heat up to high temperatures and retain their color in bath conditions for a long time. In addition to linden and ash, birch, aspen, and poplar are widely used.

Lining is recognized as the best facing material for steam rooms. Its installation technology is quite simple. Waterproofing is applied to the surface of the wall and a crate of wooden slats 2x4 cm in size is mounted. The racks of the crate are fastened in increments of 40-60 cm. Thermal insulation is applied between the bars of the crate, and vapor barrier with a layer of foil on top. The planks of the lining are attached to the crate with the help of self-tapping screws, the caps of which must be insulated and deepened into the wood to avoid burns when washing in the steam room.

A special area in the steam room creates a stove. A temperature is created around it that can ignite combustible material. The question of how to sheathe the wall near the stove in the bath has a specific solution. Heat-resistant protection from asbestos, expanded clay, refractory (fireclay) bricks is created directly in the zone of contact between the wall and the furnace. The distance from the stove to the wooden part of the wall should be at least 45-55 cm. Thermal insulation is usually provided by brickwork. In the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe furnace, the walls in the bath can be sheathed flat slate, which will successfully replace asbestos fiber.

How to equip other rooms

There is no longer a high concentration of steam in the dressing room, and the temperature, as a rule, does not exceed 30 degrees. In this room, you can think about saving money on wall cladding. The most attractive option is wood: lining, timber, board. However, cheaper conifers can be used in the dressing room, and their aroma in this room will create high-quality moral preparation for the washing procedure. The danger zone is also created in the dressing room by the stove (the combustion chamber comes out here).

Around the stove, it is also necessary to fix the material of increased heat resistance.

The washing room is also characterized by a low temperature. It is quite appropriate to use coniferous wood: pine, spruce, larch. Taking into account a slightly increased humidity, larch, which has a higher moisture resistance, looks preferable. In this room, the wall decoration with ceramic tiles also looks normal. This is especially true of the shower cubicle, where even with a general wooden decoration it is better to tile the wall area with tiles.

The arrangement of the rest room is already a matter of design. In this room, the main task is to create a cozy atmosphere. Even the issue of thermal insulation and waterproofing becomes optional, and steam protection is not necessary. Most often in the Russian bath and the rest room is made out of wood, and the emphasis is on cheaper conifers that have a beautiful texture. The structure of the tree can be emphasized with tinting impregnation. However, here it is quite possible to apply a finish with chipboard and drywall. In the design of the rest room, you can, in principle, use any material. It’s worth thinking carefully about the advisability of sticking wallpaper, since the likelihood of touching with a wet body is high.

Screens for a metal furnace in a bath

IN Lately metal stoves are increasingly used to kindle a bath. During kindling, their surface heats up to 400 degrees Celsius, while it emits certain rays that can provoke a fire. That is why it is so important to install screens between the metal stove and the wood paneling. For these purposes, non-combustible materials are selected. Which? Let's figure it out together.

Situations in which wall protection becomes vital

It is not always necessary to use protective screens around the oven. In situations where a safe distance between the described object and the flammable surface was observed at the stage of installing the furnace, it is not necessary to build additional protection. And that's why. The occurrence of a fire becomes possible if the IR radiation of the furnace is reached wood paneling. If the stoves are moved to the right distance from the walls, the IR rays are scattered while they get to them.

Determining a safe distance is easy. For brick and metal furnaces, it is different.

• If the laying of a brick oven is carried out in a quarter of a brick, a safe distance to the walls is considered to be 32 cm.
• If a metal furnace is installed in the bath, not lined inside, there must be at least a meter from it to the walls.
• When a lined metal furnace is installed in the sauna, the safety distance is reduced to 70 cm.

Possible options for the safe installation of furnaces and protective screens are shown in the photo.

• Number 1 - shielded metal furnace.
• Number 2 - a wall made of combustible material (wood).
• Number 3 - protection made of a metal sheet (asbestos-cement cardboard must be placed under it).
• Number 4 - galvanized steel roofing sheet installed up to the ceiling.
• Number 5 - steel sheet, the thickness of which is at least 1 mm.
• Number 6 - brickwork, the thickness of which is 55 mm (a quarter of a brick) or 120 mm (half a brick).

Note! It is possible to observe the fire-prevention condition only in spacious baths, where the issue of saving space is not at all worth it. Only large spacious bath complexes can afford to operate stoves without protective screens; it is simply impractical to install metal stoves at a distance of a meter from the nearest wall in family steam rooms. Therefore, the use of protective screens becomes necessary.

Protective screen installation options

What are bath screens? These are shields that allow you to isolate the surfaces of the walls where the stoves are installed. There are two types of protective screens: metal and brick.

The easiest way is to install factory-made steel or cast iron sheets on the walls in the bath. On sale you can find side screens or front sheets. They are installed around the heating object at a distance of 5 cm from the walls of its firebox. The photo shows what a metal protective screen looks like. The ready-made screen is installed quite simply, it has metal legs, they are attached to the floor with ordinary bolts.

Note! On sale you can find ready-made metal furnaces, the design of which requires a protective casing. It helps to reduce the temperature of the furnace walls to 80 degrees. This means that the fireproof distance to the wooden wall cladding can be reduced to 50 cm.

Protective screens made of bricks

The brick screen is similar in design to a fireplace; it covers both the side surfaces and the back of the metal stove. Such a brick casing is assembled exclusively from fireclay bricks, a clay mixture is used as a binder solution. The casing is assembled using laying in half a brick. Experts assure that the norms allow the assembly of a brick screen in a quarter of a brick, but in this case its thermal insulation properties will be reduced by exactly half. The following photo shows options for installing brick screens for a metal furnace.

Note! Holes for air convection are left in the lower part between the screen and the screen wall. The height of the brick casing should be 20 cm higher than the height of the metal stove. It is allowed to bring the masonry up to the ceiling. Sometimes the use of such a technique becomes justified from a design point of view.

It is impossible to install a brick screen close to the furnace. Between them there should be a distance of five to fifteen centimeters. The photo posted above shows the assembly diagram of such a screen.

Layer between wall and metal screen

Any metal has the ability to accumulate heat, it will absorb it, even being at a safe distance. Therefore, it is advisable to install non-combustible skins between a wooden wall and a metal screen (if it is hung directly on the wall). This thermal insulation materials such as basalt wool, basalt cardboard, asbestos cardboard, minerite.

If it is necessary to create such protection, a multilayer cake is formed (the device diagram is shown in the following photo):

1. Wall (ventilation gap 3 cm, it is formed due to the use of ceramic bushings).
2. Insulation.
3. Stainless steel sheet.

Note! When using such protection (according to SNiP 41-01-2003), the distance from the wooden wall to the stove should be at least 38 cm. It is this indicator that makes it possible to save space in the steam room.

The use of such protection options can significantly spoil overall design bath complex. Therefore, many are trying to find an alternative to the described sandwich. And she is. Heat-reflecting protection can be built using heat-resistant tiles, which are attached to the surface of the walls of the bath with heat-resistant glue. As the main decorative material most commonly used:

1. Terracotta tiles.
2. Clinker tiles.
3. Oven tiles.
4. Porcelain tile.
5. Talcochloride.

If such material is mounted directly on the wall, it will still get very hot, therefore, in the case of wall cladding decorative tiles it is also necessary to build a sandwich (wall - ventilation gap - refractory material - facing tiles). The distance from the wall protected in this way to the stove can be 15 cm. The following photo shows the installation diagram of the lining with the lining.

As a refractory element in a sandwich, different materials. It can be drywall, GKLO brand. Its structure contains fiberglass, so the material perfectly holds heat. Next material- Minerite - cement fiber board. It does not burn, does not absorb moisture, does not rot in a humid environment, does not decompose under the influence of temperature changes. Another option is the use of plates made on the basis of fiberglass and magnesia binder. Such a plate has good heat and sound insulation properties. She is also not afraid of sudden changes in temperature.

The use of such cladding allows you to skillfully mask protective screens, make them part of the main decor, and decorate the steam room in the same style.

Generalization on the topic

When installing a ready-made metal furnace in a bathhouse, the construction of protective screens is considered mandatory. They help to soften the thermal radiation generated by the heating object. For the manufacture of screens, non-combustible materials are used, they close the walls near which the furnace is installed. Protected from heat and floor. If it is necessary to make a steam room in a single design style, heat-resistant sheathing is used.

Non-combustible materials for baths and saunas

In the bath, it is desirable to use materials that do not support combustion. They are usually called incombustible. Another requirement: when heated (not burning, but heating), they should not emit harmful substances. This requirement is relevant, since in some rooms of the bath the air temperature under the ceiling can be 100 ° C and higher. The stove and chimney are even more dangerous in this regard - here the temperatures are even more solid. Fire safety in these places provides non-combustible materials for the bath. Many of them were developed specifically for bath regimes, in their name in one form or another there are the words "bath" or "sauna".

A little about terms

To avoid confusion in the properties and scope of materials, let's understand the terminology. There are non-combustible materials (NG), there are slightly combustible (G1) and simply combustible (G2).

Non-combustible materials under the influence of ignition sources (sparks, open fire, electric discharge, etc.) do not burn. At all. For example, reinforced concrete, stone, brick and some other building materials.

Weakly (hardly) combustible materials are incapable of full combustion, however, they burn. These are fiberglass, asphalt concrete, drywall, etc.

There are also refractory and heat-resistant materials. Refractories withstand exposure to open fire for a long time. They are used in furnaces for furnace lining. In relation to baths, these are fireclay bricks and fireclay masonry mortar. Heat-resistant are able to withstand high temperatures, but open fire may not be able to endure.

For thermal insulation of walls, floors and ceilings

In order for the steam room to quickly gain temperature, to keep it longer, it is often insulated. And the walls and ceiling. As we said, the temperatures are serious, so not all materials can be used. Most often, mineral wool is used. It is suitable for fire requirements, however, there are difficulties with humidity: it does not tolerate getting wet. To solve this problem, a layer of vapor barrier is attached on top, which prevents moisture from penetrating inside.

Mineral wool

But the material for mineral wool can be glass, slag and rocks. Besides stone wool(from rocks) there are also thin and ultra-thin ones. All of them have different characteristics. What interests us most is that they can withstand different thermal loads. Technical characteristics of mineral wool of different origin are given in the table (BTV - thin basalt fiber, BSTV - ultra-thin basalt fiber).

If you look only at temperature conditions, then any of the materials is suitable for thermal insulation of walls in a bath: minimum temperature sintering is slag, but it is much higher than the limit to which walls or ceilings can heat up - more than 250 ° C. But slag wool can only be used in dry rooms, as it is very hygroscopic. Therefore, it is better not to use it in the steam rooms of Russian baths and washing rooms (you can use it in sauna steam rooms).

If we talk about the convenience of work, then it is inconvenient to work with slag and glass wool: protective clothing, respirators, gloves are required. Mineral wool made by any technology does not prick and is the best choice. And specifically for the steam room, it is best to use mineral wool with a foil surface such as Izover Sauna, URSA and TechnoNIKOL. It combines the functions of insulation and vapor barrier (as in the case of a separate vapor barrier, the joints are glued with adhesive tape).

Read here how to properly insulate a bath.

Foam glass

If the safety and harmlessness of tribute is very important to you, pay attention to foam glass. It is absolutely harmless, has a high melting point (450°C), does not burn, but only melts. Available in several types:

The last two types of foam glass are well suited for floor insulation and attic floor. Where expanded clay was previously used, crumbs or foam glass granules can be poured. They practically do not absorb water (water absorption 2-4%), have low thermal conductivity.

Aerated concrete blocks

Another non-combustible wall insulation is low-density aerated concrete. Houses or the same baths are built from high-density blocks, and low-density material is used for insulation.

For insulation, blocks with a density of D400 and below are used. There are two main disadvantages. First - a large thickness of the material is required (two times more than the same mineral wool). In small baths, this can be critical. The second - attaching something to the blocks is problematic - low tear strength. But the material is non-combustible, environmentally friendly, inexpensive, easy to install.

Sheet non-combustible materials

One of the problems in the bath is the protection of combustible walls from the heat of the stove. Traditionally, they are protected with a brick wall, metal sheets, under which a layer of heat-insulating material (mineral wool cardboard) is laid. However, there are other types of sheet non-combustible materials:

• Silicate-calcium sheets SKL. They consist of quartz sand, lime and silica components. Do not burn, do not contain or emit any harmful substances. They are not afraid of water - when immersed in water for 100 days, they do not change their dimensions and properties. They are not affected by mold and fungi, they have no thermal deformation.
• Glass-magnesite sheet (plate) LSU. This type of material has excellent characteristics: it does not burn, has low thermal conductivity, does not absorb moisture, does not deform in a humid environment, does not rot, and is environmentally friendly. It is stronger than SKL, tiles can be glued to it without pre-treatment. This type of material is available with a laminated surface, then it is called SKP - glass-magnesite plates or panels. Mounting - on profiles used for plasterboard.

Any of these materials can be used to protect combustible walls from high temperatures near the furnace. From SKL, you can make a passage unit, sheathe the ceiling with plastics, and insulate the pipe. In general, use in any place where high temperature protection is required.

Characteristics of non-combustible sheet material LSU and low-combustible drywall and GVL

Bath wires

One of highlights when building a bath - correctly made wiring. This is especially true for wood and frame buildings. All wiring must be done strictly according to the rules:

• laid in non-combustible boxes, cable channels or corrugated hoses;
• when connecting wires, the use of twists is not allowed, only through soldering, connectors or contact plates;
• in the steam room, special heat-resistant lamps are used;
• wiring is carried out with a flame retardant cable.

The greatest number of concerns in terms of electrical wiring is the steam room. The combination of humidity, temperature, lots of wood and electricity is a very fire hazard. Therefore, many tend to do without electricians in the steam room at all, and make lighting with the help of fiber-optic lamps. Yes, they cost a lot, but they are safe - in the steam room there is only fiberglass that conducts light, and the entire electrical part is located in “dry” rooms.

In principle, there is no such thing as non-combustible (heat-resistant, heat-resistant) cables. There are cables that are flame retardant and fire resistant. Fire-resistant are used in fire extinguishing and fire detection systems. They should remain functional for some time even when exposed to direct fire. In the bath, they are useless.

Flame-retardant cables do not burn themselves, but they stop working almost immediately after exposure to open fire or high temperatures - they melt. So they should be used when distributing electricity in baths. The table shows their names.

For wiring in the bath, use VVGng. The letters LS added further indicate a small amount of smoke during combustion, which is also not bad and it is advisable to take just such a wire. The diameter is chosen depending on the total power of the electrical equipment installed on the line. Usually it is 2.5 mm2.

For chimney insulation

The chimney from the sauna stove must be insulated. There are two cases when this event is necessary. The first is to secure the combustible materials of the floors and roofs as the pipe passes through them. This item is always performed and is mandatory. For the passage of the pipe through the ceiling and the roofing pie, there are special devices that are called the PPU ceiling-through unit. This is a special-shaped box made of non-combustible materials - metal (stainless steel, for example) or the magnesite sheet described above. Read about the rules for the passage of pipes through the ceiling and roof.

The second case is not found in everyone. This is the attic pipe insulation when you need to turn it into living room. The second option is to reduce the formation of condensate. For these purposes, mineral wool is usually used, which is wrapped twice around the pipe, securing it with wire.

You can make everything more “civilized” by building a brick sarcophagus around the pipe (brick is also a non-combustible material). This is an option for turning the attic into a living space. The brick screen will "work" as a heating shield, spreading heat. At the same time, it will protect against burns.

If the brick does not pass by weight (may be too heavy), you can make a box of non-combustible sheet material - SKL or LSU.

Reliable insulation of the furnace in the bath from the walls is one of the most basic work in the construction of the bath. Protection of combustible surfaces avoids not only fire, but also deformation of the wall material. For home craftsmen, it is important to know the basic requirements and step by step instructions works on thermal insulation from various materials.

Collapse

First, let's figure out whether it is always necessary to protect the surfaces of walls and ceilings in the bath.

When is it necessary to insulate the walls from the furnace?

If the stove is made of brick, or is located at a distance of more than 1000 mm from the wall, it does not make sense to perform a full cycle of thermal insulation work. In these cases, it is enough to make a protective foil screen on moisture-resistant kraft paper. It is important to know the gaps between the wall and stoves with different surface materials:

• the stove, laid out with a wall thickness of half a brick, is recommended to move 350-400 mm away from the surfaces of the bath;
• a metal heater not lined with bricks or a layer of thermal insulation must be at least 1000 mm from the walls;
• it is recommended to install a steel stove with an extended part of the furnace and protected by thermal insulation at a distance of 700 mm.

But most individual baths are made small in size and it is not always possible to withstand the required gaps. Therefore, the optimal solution to the problem is to protect the walls and ceiling with a reliable layer of thermal insulation made of non-combustible moisture-resistant materials.

Wall protection example

SNIP requirements

Protection of the walls of the bath from the heat of the furnace is carried out in accordance with the requirements of building codes. For home master it is important to know the main ones.

SNiP III-G.11-62

“Heating furnaces, smoke and ventilation ducts of residential and public buildings. Rules for the production and acceptance of work.

According to these standards, the gaps from the heater to the wall surfaces:

• thickness of lined wall panels heaters 24 cm, with a plaster layer applied from a lime solution, or with the addition of a layer of cement, the thickness of which is 25 mm, as well as when applying a layer of asbestos and clay solution, 4 cm thick - the distance should be at least 13 cm;
• the thickness of the wall of the heater is half-brick and applying a layer of lime plaster and adding asbestos, 25 mm thick or when protected with asbestos-vermuculite plates 4 cm thick - a distance of 300 mm;
• when installing steel furnaces, with the furnace walls covered with refractory material, the minimum distance to the plastered wooden walls is 700 mm, with a layer thickness of gypsum and lime mortar of 25 mm;
• when installing a steel stove in a bath with unplastered walls, the distance to them must be at least 1000 mm.

The fire service inspector checks and signs permits for the use of the bathhouse during control measurements. Only after this procedure can you use the bath.

SNiP 2.04.05-91

"Heating. Ventilation and air conditioning."

When buying an industrial model of the furnace, the installation requirements can be found in the instructions. Home craftsmen must know and fulfill several requirements:

• the ceiling in the bath is protected by asbestos slabs, plaster and sheet metal, up to 1 cm thick, in this case, the brick-lined oven is made in height so that the gap to the ceiling is at least 250 mm;
• when installing a steel stove with a protective heat-insulating layer, maintain a gap to the ceiling of at least 700-800 mm if the ceiling is plastered and protected by non-combustible materials;
• in all other cases, the distance to the ceiling must be 1200 mm.

But the question arises before the homemade ones, how to sheathe the wall near the stove in the bath?

Wall insulation methods

The industry produces various materials and I want to choose best option for price and quality. Let's analyze the main options for protecting surfaces in a steam room.

Fire resistant drywall

This material is produced in the same way as ordinary drywall, but the outer surfaces are treated with special substances that make it not susceptible to high temperatures. At the same time, it is able to withstand exposure to open fire for 1 hour without losing its properties and without emitting smoke and soot.

You can distinguish it by the color of the sheet markings. It comes dyed red. When buying, pay attention to 2 main characteristics of the material, which are indicated in the certificate:

• fire resistance limit. This indicates the time of exposure to high temperatures before the destruction of the material. The higher this number, the more reliable the surface protection will be;
• sheet weight. Sheets with a thickness of 12 mm are used, such drywall weighs more than usual, so it is important to consider this characteristic, especially for laying on the ceiling.

Works on laying fire-resistant drywall are carried out according to the scheme:

1. prepare the walls, for this they need to be cleaned of dirt, remnants of the old finish layer. After that, it is necessary to prime the surfaces and level them with a solution;
2. fix waterproofing and a layer of thermal insulation on the walls;
3. we pass walls and ceilings with impregnations that increase the fire resistance of surfaces;
4. we mark the place of installation of profiles for fixing drywall and fix the guides at a distance from ceiling covering walls - 100 mm. The gap to the wooden floor is 50 mm. The frame is fixed with long self-tapping screws;
5. sheets of material are installed on the frame and fixed with self-tapping screws, the caps of which must be twisted flush with the surface of the sheets;
6. you can go to finishing work, but do not forget about the high humidity in the steam room, so you can treat the walls and ceiling with water-repellent impregnations. After that, the walls are puttied, and a layer of decorative finishes is applied.

Finishing the walls and ceilings of the bathhouse with fire-resistant plasterboard is over.

Minerite

How to isolate the stove in the bath from the wooden wall? Many builders use the Minerite material, which combines thermal insulation properties and protects surfaces from the effects of open fire.

These boards are made with a cement-fiber base and a hard front surface. Materials produced specifically for damp rooms and baths are not affected by humidity and heavy loads. With the help of Minerita plates, the wall covering is installed without gaps, it is not subject to deformation when heated, so there is no need to leave temperature gaps.

Plates withstand heating up to 150 0 without changing their physical properties. Environmentally friendly when used in damp rooms and under the influence of high temperatures do not emit harmful substances and are resistant to the formation of fungi and mold.

Work on their installation is carried out similarly to the installation of drywall, but does not require the manufacture of a frame:

1. before work, we clean all surfaces from dirt and old coatings;
2. if necessary, we level the walls, especially the floors to prevent sheet kinks;
3. plates are laid on the floor or walls without gaps to the wall and fixed with self-tapping screws;
4. on the walls and floor it is necessary to make a gap of 30 mm for air access. Therefore, self-made or industrial bushings are put on self-tapping screws. Therefore, when buying self-tapping screws, it is necessary to take into account the size of the indent;
5. when installing slabs in a new bath building, it is important to make small grooves or drill holes of a larger diameter at the place where the self-tapping screw passes. This is necessary to prevent damage to the slabs during shrinkage of the building.

After completing the work, the plates are puttied and a decorative finish is applied.

Superizol

A fire-resistant material consisting of quartz and quicklime with the addition of additives is able to withstand temperatures of 120 0 . It is used for finishing fireplaces, walls, bath ceilings from the heat of the stove. When heated, substances harmful to humans and unpleasant odors are not emitted.

Plates with a thickness of 25-80 mm are fixed in the same way as drywall with glue, self-tapping screws or heat-resistant mastic. Thermal insulation of the furnace in the bath with the help of Superizol is not cheap way finishing coverings of the steam room, but you should not buy cheap Chinese plates.

Stainless steel protective screen

For these purposes, screens with a matte surface or a mirror are used. Stainless steel sheets are perfect solution how to protect the coverings of the steam room from fires, and how decorative trim premises.

But the material is quite expensive, so you can use the screen to protect the lower surface of the walls near the stove, and install cheaper material on top.

The isolation of the sauna stove from a wooden wall using stainless steel screens is carried out according to the scheme:

General scheme

The screen is ready. Better to use mirror surfaces screens, in this case, they will reflect heat, it will be faster and evenly distributed over the steam room. Thus, we create a protective screen around the stove in the bath, protect ourselves from burns and perform a decorative finish layer.

What is the best way to choose?

Finishing the wall from the oven for different types and sizes of baths are used different in shape and materials. The main thing, at the same time, is to ensure the fire safety of your steam room and protect the walls from deformation at high heating temperatures.

Otherwise, it all depends on the capabilities and desires of the owners of the steam room. You can use heat-resistant tiles or expensive tiles, or you can simply cover the walls and ceiling with mineral wool and a layer of metal foil. By leveling the walls with drywall sheets with surfaces not exposed to open fire, you can paint the steam room with heat-resistant paint.

With large sizes of the bath, it is possible not to perform these works if the conditions of SNIP and fire safety are met. By making the concrete base larger than the stove and maintaining a gap of 1 m to the walls, you can safely use the heater and enjoy the steam. In any case, it is important to take care of safety and then your bath will serve you for a long time.

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