One of the significant advantages of a flexible roof is the relative ease of its installation. Nevertheless, there are still some features of working with this roofing, and we will talk about them in this article. Having mastered the simple technology of work, you can easily prepare the base and lay the tiles with high quality.
In general, the installation of flexible shingles is quite simple, from the tools you will need a hammer, a sectional knife, a spatula and a glue gun.
Foundation preparation
The base for a flexible roof must be solid and have a high modulus of elasticity. To do this, OSB or moisture-resistant plywood with a thickness of at least 9 mm is laid on the rafters. The step of the lathing under the coating should not exceed 90-120 cm, in other cases it is necessary to increase the thickness of the slabs or plywood to 20 mm, or use a counter-lattice. It has the added benefit of optimizing the ventilation of the under-roof space and preventing the formation of condensation in the roof pie.
At the joints, a height difference of more than 2 mm is not allowed; it is also important that there is a 3-4 mm thermal gap between the plates. Any violations of the correct geometry: deviation from flatness, non-parallelism of the cornices with the skates, curvature of the valleys do not interfere with laying, but in one way or another they affect the appearance of the coating.
Underlayment carpet flooring
A solid crate must be cleaned of dirt and covered with a lining carpet, which serves as an additional layer of waterproofing and a buffer layer that prevents the accumulation of migrating moisture.
Lining carpet - roll material, which is rolled out over the entire surface of the roof with a slope of up to 30 °. On steeper slopes, it is allowed to protect only the most vulnerable places: cornices, ridges, gable overhangs and junctions.
With continuous laying on slopes with a slight slope, the roll is rolled out horizontally, starting from the cornices. Each layer is stretched and nailed to the upper edge with roofing nails in 15-20 cm increments, releasing the carpet from the eaves and gable overhangs by 2-3 cm. The nails should have a length of 1-1.5 cm more than the thickness of the solid crate and flash it through.
After laying the carpet, remove the protective films from the edges of the overlap and lightly press the edges with an adhesive backing. On steep slopes, for convenience, you can roll the carpet vertically, nailing it at the top. If the length of the carpet is not enough, it can be extended by connecting the lining with an overlap of 15 cm and gluing the joint with bituminous glue.
Valley processing
If there are valleys on the roof, laying the carpet should begin with them. The roll is rolled out in the direction of the valley and the edges are fixed with nails in increments of 20-30 cm. The carpet strips on the slopes are laid over the lining of the valley by 15 cm and cut obliquely parallel to the line of its center. Places of overlap must be treated with bituminous glue and pressed well against each other.
Tiling also starts from the valleys. After installing the strips on the cornices on inner surface valleys roll out a special valley carpet, which has the color and texture of tiles. It is carefully leveled and the side edges are fastened with nails every 10-15 cm. The lower part is cut with a knife along the line of the cornice tiles and glued to the metal bar.
Laying the starting row
Tiling starts from the eaves. First, a cornice L-shaped bar is stuffed along the entire lower perimeter, which closes the junction of the cornice overhang and the edge of the lining carpet bent down. The planks are laid with an overlap of 5-7 cm and nailed with roofing nails in two rows with a step of 8-12 cm. 3 nails.
This is followed by laying the starting row of tiles with cornice shingles or tape. They have a smooth edge, which is placed with an indent of 1-2 cm from the edge of the overhang. The lower surface of the cornice tiles is adhesive: it is simply pressed against the cleaned and degreased metal strips, it is not necessary to fasten it with nails.
Ordinary tile
Shingles of ordinary tiles are laid, starting from the outer edge of the eaves. It is necessary to mix tiles from 4-5 packs to avoid possible deviations in color. Before laying, the protective film is removed from the teeth of the shingle, exposing the adhesive backing.
The first row of shingles is laid on top of the eaves row so that the edges of the teeth are 1-2 cm higher than the edge. Each shingle of an ordinary tile is nailed 3-4 cm above the protrusion of the teeth so that the nail also presses the previous row. Each subsequent row of tiles is laid with teeth flush with the upper edge of the cutouts of the previous row. The side edges of the shingles are joined without overlap, some manufacturers even have lock cutouts on the edges.
The ends of ordinary tiles on the gable overhangs are cut flush with the edge and fixed with bituminous glue. In the valleys, the edges of ordinary tiles are cut obliquely so that the edge is 12 cm from the center and the overlap is also glued to the full width.
Mounting and sealing of terminals, connections
The best option to join the chimney well is to knock down a 15-20 cm high plywood neck around it. A gap of several millimeters is needed between the wall and the masonry so that the roof with the neck can move relative to the well. The upper edge of the neck is nailed to the masonry with quick installation.
The surface of the neck is covered with bituminous glue and lined with segments of the valley carpet, letting in ordinary tiles and wrapping corners of 15 cm. The metal lining of the well is lowered to a level of 2-3 cm from the roof surface, thus blocking the neck gap. Similarly, multi-tiered roofs adjoin to the gables.
For the installation of ventilation outlets from the attic and the layer of the roofing cake, special rubber cuffs are used. They are planted on bituminous glue on top of the carpet, then again coated with glue and covered with ordinary tiles, making cutouts in it as accurately as possible. The ends at the junction are thoroughly sealed with bituminous glue.
Wind bars and skates
Cornices or wind slats can be used as a frame for gable overhangs. The first ones are mounted on top of the lining carpet along with the trim of the cornice overhangs. There is no need to trim the planks at the corners: they are overlapped and the corner is fixed with five nails. Thus, the framing of the cornices and wind overhangs is the same.
This is not very convenient when there is a thick end of the roof sheathing that needs to be closed. In this case, special wind bars are used. They have a U-shaped or L-shaped shape, the height of the bar is selected according to the thickness of the end. On the upper corner, there may be a side for framing overhangs with a triangular glazing bead at the end.
Such planks are fixed over ordinary tiles, smearing with glue 2/3 of the distance from the edge, which will be covered with metal. Wind strips are attached to the end with self-tapping screws for corrugated board.
After laying ordinary tiles, they are cut on skates end-to-end without overlap, and then the connection is closed with ridge tiles. In the presence of hip skates, they start with them, laying the petals from the bottom up. For most manufacturers, ridge shingles are pieces of cornice shingles or tape. They are laid with an overlap of 5-7 cm, nailing one edge, which will be closed by the petal of the next row.
Features of winter installation
Tiles may only be laid in dry weather at an air temperature of +5...12 °C, depending on the manufacturer's requirements. It is allowed to lay tiles at a lower temperature, but this requires to withstand roofing elements at a temperature of +20 °C during the day before laying. When installing tiles, it is necessary to warm up with a building hair dryer each new shingle and the surface of the previous row in the place where the adhesive base adheres.
In most cases, it makes sense to use the so-called "greenhouse" in winter. This is a galvanized profile frame built around a building or a specific section of the roof. The frame is covered with a sealed dome made of polyethylene film. To maintain the desired temperature, an electric or gas heat gun is used.
If flexible tiles are chosen as the roofing material, do-it-yourself laying can be carried out by home master without helpers. Flexible roofing should not be confused with soft roofing, which is presented in the form used for flat roofs.
Installation of flexible tiles yourself
Due to the extremely simple design that flexible tiles have, do-it-yourself laying is not difficult, even for a non-professional. This roofing material produced in the form of shingles:
- a rectangular sheet of fiberglass with bituminous impregnation;
- the lower part is treated with SBS compound or natural bitumen for gluing to a continuous crate, the self-adhesive layer is protected during storage and transportation with a polymer film;
- on top, fiberglass is covered with a similar material, sprinkled with slate, granite, basalt chips or quartz sand to increase wear resistance.
Shingles from different manufacturers are not the same size (medium format 1 x 0.35 m), thickness 3 mm. The tile pattern is of several types:
Tools
For laying the roofing material in question, it is enough hand tool present in the arsenal of the home master:
- knife - for cutting bituminous materials;
- scissors - for cutting metal strips;
- hammer - for fastening with nails;
- brush - for coating with mastics.
Helpful information! In the off-season, in winter, a burner may be required to heat the bitumen layer. Strength decreases, labor intensity increases, therefore, warm weather without precipitation is recommended for self-assembly.
Styling theory
For convenience of work at height shingles have a small format. They are stacked from the overhang to the ridge with a ledge so that each upper row overlaps the lower one. Valleys, chimney passages, ventilation pipes are processed first. Then eaves, gable strips are fixed, drain brackets are attached. After that, it remains to fill the surfaces of the slopes with shingles, cutting them in width and length as necessary.
Mounting technology
If you are laying flexible tiles with your own hands without assistants, it is enough to follow the technology below to avoid mistakes, reduce cutting waste, and achieve the maximum possible operational resource.
The roofing cake must be prepared accordingly:
- vapor barrier film - mounted on the rafters from the inside / attic to prevent the penetration of moisture to wooden structures, however, 100% protection is not possible, some part still penetrates inside;
- thermal insulation - extruded polystyrene foam or basalt wool, placed between the rafters, partially supported by a vapor barrier film from falling inside;
- waterproofing (wind protection) - stretched from above, allows moisture to escape to the outside, condense on the surface;
- counter-rail - stuffed along the rafters, provides a ventilation gap that allows you to remove condensed moisture from the surface of the waterproofing with air flows;
- lathing - solid OSB boards, multi-layer or tongue-and-groove boards.
Important! A continuous crate of unedged boards is not allowed, since there is no flatness of the surface of the slopes. All defects will be emphasized with flexible tiles after installation.
Substrate
The lining carpet with a slope of 12 - 18 degrees is created solid. To do this, the valley is glued vertically (obliquely) with the OS HF hydrobarrier, the overhangs at the cornices are horizontal with the same material. The roll material of the lining carpet is glued to the crate with mastic in horizontal stripes from the bottom / up.
The width of the launch of the hydro-barrier for each slope in the valley is 0.5 m. The sheets of the lining carpet have an overlap of 15 cm in adjacent rows and 10 cm when increasing the length in the vertical direction. The frequency of fixing with nails is 25 cm, additional coating with mastic is carried out in the overlap.
Helpful information! With a slope of more than 18 degrees, it is enough to process the valleys, overhangs at the cornices, the pairing of the slopes of the hip, mansard roofs in this way. The middle part of the slopes in this case is not processed with a lining carpet.
Installation of planks and drains
Eaves, gable steel strips are needed to reinforce these roof elements. In these areas, one edge of the shingles does not have an overlap, therefore, the likelihood of scuffing, detachment during wind loads, and heavy rainfall increases. Metal strips increase the spatial rigidity of the crate, they are mounted with nails (15 cm step + checkerboard pattern) with an overlap of 3-5 cm.
Depending on the design and layout of the drains at the cornice overhang, at the same stage, brackets can be attached to the crate or cornice strips, on which the gutters of the drain will be hung.
Facing slopes
In order for the flexible tile to have the maximum operational resource, laying the shingles with your own hands begins with the markup:
- parallel to the cornice overhang or ridge, lines are marked along the entire length of the slope every 0.8 m for every 5 horizontal rows;
- perpendicular to the previous marking, lines are drawn every 1 m for each vertical row.
The resulting mesh allows you to control the location of the sides of each shingle in a row, adjust as needed. Particularly relevant markings for roofs with auditory, skylights, chimneys, ventilation pipes.
Helpful information! It is not necessary to nail the shingles along this grid, it is created for reference, facilitates the work of the master.
The installation technology of shingles will include several stages:
- eaves row - cut out from ordinary shingles (models Accord, Sonata, Tango, Trio manufacturer Shiglas) or ridge-cornice strips (modifications Jazz, Accord, Sonata), fastened over a steel cornice strip 2 cm from the bend;
- first row - with a significant length of the slope, work starts from the middle, the indentation of the cornice row is 1 - 2 cm for various modifications of the coating;
- subsequent rows - also from the center, the petals of the pattern are shifted by half or in accordance with the complex patterns of the front part, the lower edge of the shingle should be flush with the upper edge of the cutout of the lower shingle.
Helpful information! Starting from the third row, you should maintain the direction in which the petals of the shingle are shifted. Otherwise, after a few rows, the overall pattern of the coating will no longer match.
Nails should be placed perpendicular to the slope of the slope so that the hat presses the material parallel to it, without distortions. It is not necessary to sink the heads of the hardware. The punching scheme is present on the manufacturer's box, as it differs depending on the model of flexible tiles, the slope of the roof.
In the absence of a factory self-adhesive layer, the shingles are smeared on the reverse side with mastic along a width of 10 cm from the top edge. For normal water rebound, the shingles are cut off with pediment strips 2 cm from their edge.
Junction nodes
Depending on the configuration of the roof, there may be ridges on it (ribs formed by neighboring hip slopes, similar to a ridge), fractures (the junction of the slopes on one side of the house in the mansard roof), valleys (internal corners in the junctions of the L-shaped roof, dormer window ).
There are two options for designing valleys:
- open - shingles are run on both sides of the valley carpet, nails are nailed 30 cm from the mating axis, two lines are beaten off with a coated cord parallel to the axis on each slope, the roofing material is cut along these lines, laying a board, glued with mastic, fixed with nails in the usual manner;
- closed - shingles from one slope (usually with a smaller slope) are launched onto the next one, nails are punched 25 cm from the axis of the valley, 7 cm from the axis on an unsheathed slope they beat off a line parallel to the axis of the valley, cut the shingles, fasten them finally, then to this line adjoins the shingles of the second slope in the usual manner.
Adjacencies (to walls, parapets, other structures) are made out along triangular slats (“glazing beads”), nailed to the corners of the mates. To do this, a 50 x 50 mm beam is dissolved, the surface of the wall to which the roof adjoins is pre-leveled with plaster or putty. Then, on top of the shingles, a piece of valley carpet 50 cm wide is glued onto the mastic with a 30 cm run on the wall.
Helpful information! From above, this piece of the valley carpet is closed with a metal apron, the upper side of which is embedded in the seams of the masonry or a strobe in concrete.
Chimneys, ventilation pipes are best decorated with special ceramic, steel additional elements. The shingles are adjacent to them or overlapped from above.
Article
For domestic developers in recent decades, shingles have become the most attractive roofing material. It competes with varying success only with metal ones, piece ones are far behind. roof coverings, including slates.
The more knowledge about the material, the easier it is to understand certain requirements for laying technology. This will avoid many annoying mistakes during the installation of the roof and significantly improve the quality and durability of the coating.
What is a bituminous tile made of?
| Layer name | Technical and operational parameters |
|---|---|
| Base | All top layers are applied to the base, it is made of durable fiberglass. It is not afraid of moisture, it can stretch a little and at the same time not lose its original mechanical strength. The plasticity of fiberglass allows you to compensate for minor changes in the linear dimensions of the roof. No need to be afraid of deflections truss system or battens, fluctuations between slopes and chimneys. But this does not mean that the truss system can be unstable, we mean only cases of critical loads during various natural disasters. |
| Bitumen | Natural natural bitumen in modern coatings not used due to very low performance. It hardens over time, loses elasticity, and through cracks appear in it. Another problem with simple bitumen is that it reacts very negatively to ultraviolet radiation. To improve physical performance, scientists have developed special additives, the material has become much more resistant to various natural and climatic factors. Not afraid of UV rays, does not harden when negative temperatures etc. But shingles still can not be mounted at low temperatures. |
| Powder | Slate or basalt is used as a powder, to increase the surface area of individual particles, basalt rocks are crushed to granulate and become rounded. Such forms adhere very tightly to the bitumen and crumble more slowly. The granulate performs two functions. The first purely technical one is the protection of modified bitumen from sunlight and mechanical damage. The second is to improve the appearance of the design. |
Prices for various types and manufacturers of shingles
In the building materials market, there a large number of domestic and foreign companies engaged in the production of flexible tiles. There are many varieties of coatings that differ not only in design appearance, but also in device: technical specifications bases, features of modified bitumen, shape of shingles, external protective and decorative coatings. Accordingly, the installation technology is slightly different, but for all types of shingles there are several general and mandatory rules.
Base
Soft roofs are installed only on a continuous crate.
It can be made from OSB boards, plywood or thin edged boards. The last option is the most expensive and the most problematic in terms of technology, it is not recommended to use. As for plywood and OSB, they fully meet all the requirements, and the thickness is regulated by the lathing step.
Due to this approach, it is possible to influence the cost of the structure. For example, laying cheap thin slabs on cheap unedged boards, and not expensive thick boards on expensive slats. One more nuance should be kept in mind. Many builders require to buy only waterproof types of plywood or OSB for continuous sheathing for soft tiles., although such materials are much more expensive than conventional ones. Why not listen to their advice? Firstly, the crate should only withstand the load on the roof, and not protect it from leaks. Secondly, leaks must be immediately eliminated, no plates can eliminate them. The sooner the roof is repaired, the longer the building will be used. The durability and tightness of the roof in no way depends on the moisture resistance of the continuous crate.
Climatic conditions for installation
Most manufacturers claim that their soft tiles can be installed at an air temperature of +5°C. You need to know that this is the minimum temperature at which the adhesion of bituminous mastics is at the minimum acceptable level, and it does not guarantee the reliability of fixation. In addition, the daytime temperature of +5°С with a high probability indicates that it fell below zero at night. In such conditions, frost appears on the surface of plywood or OSB, and on a cool day, the moisture does not have time to completely dry. There will be big problems during the sealing of junctions to the roof of chimneys, ventilation pipes and other engineering communications located on the roof. Do not risk the quality of the coating, work only in dry and warm weather.
Additional materials
Quality shingles soft tiles affects the appearance and reliability of the coating on flat areas of slopes. But leaks most often occur not on even slopes, but in junctions, valleys, etc. These places are sealed with special additional elements and materials, only high-quality products should be used. It is very important that all elements and the main coatings are from the same manufacturer. In difficult places, it is better to play it safe than to rely on luck and try to simplify the technology recommended by the manufacturer.
Tools
The main rule for all professionals is that the tools must be in good condition and in complete set. To install soft tiles you will need a drill, spatula, paint brush, metal shears, measuring tools and a chopping rope. It is advisable to have a special belt, it is much more convenient to work with it, all the necessary tools are always at hand. Experienced builders know how much work time can be saved if everything needed for installation is within reach and in place. If the laying technology provides for hot gluing, then you need to have a hair dryer for heating.
Prices for the model range of pneumatic staplers
Pneumatic staplers
Coating storage rules
Already before installation, it is opened, the shingles from different packs are mixed. The fact is that the production technology does not allow making external coatings completely identical in shades, if they are not evenly mixed, then large multi-colored spots will be noticeable on the roof, which significantly worsens the appearance of the building.
Bedding mats are stored in an upright position.
Crate preparation
In our case, a solid crate made of OSB board with a thickness of only 9 mm, in order to increase the bearing capacity, it was necessary to reduce the pitch of the crate. If in the future it is planned to insulate the roof from the inside, then it is imperative to install wind protection and provide ventilation for natural ventilation. Prepare materials and tools, mix tile shingles from different packs.
Important. Never work on a roof without insurance. Especially if the crate is solid, there are no rails on it that can delay the fall. In the absence of special professional equipment, ordinary ropes and belts can be used. We must remember that all safety regulations are written in someone's blood.
Plates need to arrive randomly, this increases the stability of the truss system. For fixing, you can use ordinary nails (fast, durable and cheap) or self-tapping screws (long, expensive, but fashionable).
It is not necessary to fix the plates with hardware from stainless alloys, they are not affected by precipitation. The length of the nails must be at least 2/3 greater than the thickness of the fastened materials.
But this statement is highly controversial. Firstly, a plate, firmly nailed with a large number of nails, will not be able to expand freely anyway, for this it must tear out the hardware. Secondly, it is protected by lining and flexible tiles, which almost completely eliminates direct contact with water. Thirdly, if any leakage appears, then it has a local character and cannot wet the entire slab. Conclusion - there is no need to specifically withstand any gaps. They are - excellent, no - not a problem. If for technological reasons in some parts of the plate you need to press it tightly - press it. If you need to push it a little to the sides - let the gaps remain.
Inexperienced builders do not know how to connect in practice the dependence of the thickness of the slab and the pitch of the crate. Make it simple. Lay two slats on the rafter legs at a distance of about 50 cm, on top of the OSB board. With maximum effort, press it with your hand, if the surface sags, then reduce the step of the crate, if not, then you can increase it. There is no need to do long and complex calculations, the parameters are determined in just a few minutes.
Prices for OSB (Oriented Strand Board)
OSB (Oriented Strand Board)
Laying valleys and bedding
With these operations, the laying of soft tiles begins. No big difference in the technology of mounting coatings of various manufacturers and price categories. If you fully deal with one type of roof, then you can work with others without problems. All work should begin with checking the slopes. You need to find out their length and width, measure the diagonals. The optimal case - the roof has an ideal rectangular shape. If there are problems, then they need to be corrected partly at the stage of manufacturing the crate, and partly during the direct coating. The ratio should be chosen so that after corrections the roof has a symmetrical appearance.
Object before laying shingles and installing OSB-3 boards
Step 1. Work begins with valleys (junctions of two slopes). Lay a lining carpet in them, it is sold in a set with a roof. The color of the front surface matches the color of the tiles.
The width of the carpet is at least one meter, on both sides there should be approximately 50 cm of protection. Carefully align the material, do not allow the appearance of wrinkles. Cut off excess pieces. After the fitting is completed, the edges should be smeared with bituminous mastic and the carpet should be finally glued. Mastic must be of high quality, the width of the smeared strip is at least ten centimeters. The thickness of the mastic layer is approximately 1 mm, cover the entire surface with the material without gaps, use a stainless steel spatula of the appropriate width.
The valley carpet is glued in parts after fitting and checking the position. Pay attention that during pressing it does not move. You can press it with your hands or with a hard rubber roller. For a guarantee, nail it with carnations with wide caps. But it is not necessary to do this, the valley carpet is covered from above with bedding, and then with shingles of soft tiles. Drive carnations in increments of 20-25 cm at a distance of three centimeters from the edge.
Step 2 Spread the underlayment carpet along the main slope from the bottom up. Pay attention to the white stripes, they should be at the top. In the future, the protective paper from these strips is removed and the next coating strip is glued. The tape should be as even as possible, start fixing only after checking the position along the entire length.
Practical advice. If the roof slope is very large, then it is possible to make an intermediate fixation of the coating every 2.5–3.0 m, but the carnations do not need to be hammered in to the end. They can be completely hammered only after the roll has been rolled out to the edge of the slope, and all folds have been removed.
Carefully cut off the excess along the edge of the slope. Fasten the underlying carpet with nails, drive them in in the usual way along the white strip, in the future this place will close.
Step 3 When the first strip is fixed, you can start laying the second. Be careful that both white paper protective tapes are placed against each other, constantly check the position of the material. Everything is normal - remove the protective paper from both strips and stick the coating. If the length of the roll is not enough, then the docking point must be made with an overlap of about 10 cm and be sure to coat it with bituminous mastic.
In the same way, continue to cover the entire crate of the slope. A gap must be placed on the ridge to ventilate the space above the insulation. Be sure to glue the bedding carpet to the valley carpet, we have already mentioned that these places are the most dangerous, leaks most often appear here.
Prices for lining carpets
Carpet lining
Fastening of eaves and end metal strips
It's not only decorative elements, they perform an important technical task - they protect the crate from moisture and prevent undermining of the litter by sharp gusts of side wind.
Step 1. Reinstall the first cornice strip, making sure that it is in line with the bottom edge of the slope sheathing. Fix it with carnations in a checkerboard pattern at a distance of about 20–25 cm. In these places, it is advisable to use galvanized hardware, although ordinary ones will last for decades. Slide the next bar under the previous one so that it lies in place, cut the corner with scissors for metal.
Step 2 Nail the end (wind) metal strips, the fixing method is the same as described above. The place of joining is fixed with a separate nail. Pay attention that there is no gap in the corner of the junction of the eaves and wind strips. Do a little release sharp corner carefully cut with scissors.
Such work should be done around the entire perimeter of the roof. When all the strips are in place, you can begin the installation of shingles.
Practical advice. To facilitate the work, it is recommended to make a simple rope ladder. The leg is inserted into the loops, and the hands hold onto the knots. Such an elementary device not only increases the safety of the work, but also makes it easier for the roofer to climb a steep slope.
Laying soft tiles
You need to start work with the exact marking of the position of the first row; for this purpose, a line is beaten off on the lining. How exactly? Measure the width of the soft tiles from the edge and add 10 mm to this value, this is how much the first row should deviate from the bend of the cornice strip. Such marks should be on both sides of the slope. Then, with the help of a chopping construction cord, you need to beat off the line. The markup made will speed up the work, there will be no need to take measurements every time. In addition, with its help, it will be possible to make the first row perfectly even, namely, it is first of all striking.
Step 1. Take a close look reverse side tiles, there are two films. One says that it cannot be removed before installation, and the other way around. Remove the wide tape, it will reveal a layer of adhesive bitumen.
Step 2 Lay the first shingle so that its top edge lies exactly on the beaten line. Align the edges, they should be located at a distance of 10 mm from the wind and cornice strips. Press the adhesive firmly against the metal. Next, continue to work according to the same algorithm, the shingles of the cornice tiles should be even at the joints, no overlaps are made.
Step 3 Start gluing the usual flexible tiles. Before installation, the protective plastic film must also be removed.
Important. Ordinary tiles are 10 mm narrower than eaves. For proper styling you need to align the upper ends of the materials along one line, at the bottom there will be a difference in length of one centimeter.
Make sure that the ends are perfectly parallel to the metal strips. Press the shingles firmly with your hands. We have already mentioned that the warmer it is outside, the better the coating adheres, the more reliable the fixation.
At a distance of 1 cm under each adhesive strip, drive in carnations with wide caps. There is one feature - at the top of the shingle, only one nail is driven in at the corners. Thus fix the entire first row of shingles.
Step 4 After finishing the installation of the first row of ordinary shingles, you can proceed to the second. The technology requires that the second row be glued with a shift, due to this, the joints of the shingles of the first are covered and sealed, and the heads of the driven nails are closed at the same time. Manufacturers have provided for such an offset, you do not need to measure anything. Step back the width of the adhesive strips and position the next shingle above them, taking into account the dimensions of the cutouts. Further, the installation technology is no different.
Due to the fact that the second row is laid with an offset, the outer shingle will have to be cut. Attach it in place, mark the cutting points. It is better to cut soft tiles on small wooden stands, they are guaranteed to protect the litter from accidental damage. But experienced roofers do this on shingles that have already been installed, turn the shingle upside down and carefully cut it off with a sharp knife. Beginners are not recommended to do this, the risks of damaging the coating are too great.
Step 5 On each fixed row, turn back the sheets of soft tiles in turn and hammer a nail under them. Then smear the back of the petal with mastic and glue it to the bottom shingle. The petals have bitumen under the protective film, but to ensure adhesion strength, experienced builders recommend additionally lubricating the surfaces with mastic. This does not take much time and completely eliminates the undermining of elements by gusts of wind.
How to make a valley and a skate
Find the exact location of the valley, step back 2-3 cm and stick a thin wooden lath. It is needed so that the coating is not damaged during cutting off sections of the flexible roof that protrude beyond the bend. Cut them off with a sharp knife under a metal ruler (you can use building level), it will take a lot of effort, achieve the most even and accurate cut. Move the wooden lath up the valley as needed and continue to cut off the excess soft tiles. After that, it is necessary to completely lay the tiles on the second adjoining slope and again make a cut at the place of the bend. You get a smooth and beautiful junction of two slopes.
A special additional element is mounted on the ridge. It should close the gap from rain and snow and at the same time provide effective ventilation roof space. We have already mentioned that this is necessary for warm roofs, if they are cold, then ventilation is not done. The panel folds under right angle and is laid on the ridge, fixed with studs with anti-corrosion coating or stainless steel. To protect against ultraviolet radiation and improve the design look, the surface of the plastic ridge element is covered with a flexible tile, which is nailed. Do not forget to insert special foam tapes into place, they do not allow insects to enter the ventilated space.
Video - Installation of shingles
The roof made of bituminous soft tiles is easy to use, durable and aesthetic. Its big plus is that self-assembly is quite possible. The technology is not the most complicated, the weight of the fragment is small, it is attached to the adhesive base, additionally fixed with roofing nails. So the installation of soft tiles with your own hands can be done even alone.
Roofing cake for soft tiles
The attic under the roof can be warm or cold, depending on this, the composition of the roofing cake changes. But its part from the rafters and above always remains unchanged:
- waterproofing is stuffed on the rafters;
- on it - bars with a thickness of at least 30 mm;
- solid flooring.
Here we will consider these materials in more detail - from what and how to make, what features each of them has.
Waterproofing
Waterproofing membranes are available in one, two or three layers. Single-layer membranes - the simplest and cheapest, perform only a dual task - do not allow moisture to pass towards the room and release vapors to the outside. So in a simple way not only the attic is protected either from the penetration of condensate or suddenly leaked precipitation, but it is also removed from the air excess moisture accompanying human life. Single-layer membranes are poorly represented on the market. Practically they are produced by one company - Tyvek.
Two and three-layer membranes are more durable. They, in addition to the waterproofing layer, also have a layer that gives greater tensile strength. The third layer, if any, is the absorbent layer. That is, even if a drop of condensate has formed on the surface of the membrane, this layer absorbs it into itself, preventing it from spilling onto other materials. With sufficient ventilation, moisture from this layer gradually evaporates and is carried away by air currents.
Three-layer membranes (for example, EUROTOP N35, RANKKA, YUTAKON) are desirable if your attic is insulated and used as a heater mineral wool. It is afraid of getting wet and with an increase in humidity by 10% loses half of its thermal insulation properties.
If under soft tiles there will be cold attic, it is desirable to use a two-layer waterproofing membrane. In terms of strength, it is much better than single-layer ones, and at a price it is only a little more expensive.
crate
On top of the waterproofing film, parallel to the overhang, the lathing strips are stuffed. They are necessary to create a ventilation gap. It will help maintain the normal humidity of roofing materials.
The crate is made from boards conifers(mainly pine trees). The thickness of the boards is at least 30 mm. This is the minimum gap that will ensure the normal movement of air in the under-roof space. Before laying, the wood must be treated with an impregnation that protects against pests and fungi; after drying this layer, it is also treated with flame retardants, which reduce the combustibility of wood.
The minimum length of the board for the crate is at least two spans of rafters. They fasten and connect over rafter legs. You can't connect them anywhere else.
Flooring
The flooring under soft tiles is made solid. Materials are selected based on the fact that nails must be driven into it, therefore they are usually used:
- OSB 3;
- moisture resistant plywood;
- tongue-and-groove or edged board of the same thickness (25 mm) with a moisture content of not more than 20%.
When laying flooring under soft tiles, it is necessary to leave gaps between the elements to compensate for thermal expansion. When using plywood or OSB, the gap is 3 mm, between edged boards 1-5 mm. Sheet material is fastened with a run-out of seams, that is, so that the joints are not continuous. Fasten the OSB with self-tapping screws or ruffed nails.
Using boards as flooring, it is necessary to ensure that the annual rings of the wood are directed downwards. With the reverse arrangement, they will be arched, soft tiles will be lifted, the tightness of the coating may be broken. There is another trick that will keep the wooden flooring even if the moisture content of the boards is above 20%. When laying the ends of the boards, they are additionally fastened with two nails or self-tapping screws hammered close to the edge. This additional fastener will prevent the boards from bending during shrinkage.
The choice of the thickness of the material for flooring under soft tiles depends on the pitch of the crate. The larger the pitch, the thicker the flooring required. The best option is a frequent step and thin plates. In this case, a light but rigid base is obtained.
Another point concerns the installation of flooring for soft tiles around the chimney pipe. With a brick pipe, the width of which is more than 50 cm, a groove is made behind it (pictured). This design, reminiscent of a mini-roof. It separates the rain streams, they roll down the sides of the pipe without flowing into the under-roof space.
After installing the flooring, its geometry is checked. The length is measured, the width of the slope at the top and bottom, the height of the slope on both sides, the diagonals are measured. And the last check - tracking the plane - the entire slope must lie entirely in the same plane.
Soft tile roofing technology
When buying, you will most likely be provided with instructions, to which the installation of soft tiles will be described step by step and in detail, indicating all the exact dimensions that this particular manufacturer requires. These recommendations should be followed. However, it is worth getting acquainted with the order of work and their volumes ahead of time - in order to understand the intricacies of installation and the required amount of materials.
We must say right away that it is necessary to handle soft tiles when laying carefully - she does not like it if she is bent. Therefore, try not to bend or crush the shingles unnecessarily (this is one fragment consisting of a visible and mounting part).
Overhang reinforcement
The drip bar is installed first. This is an L-shaped sheet of metal coated with paint or polymer composition. Polymer coating is more expensive, but also more reliable. The color is selected close to the color of bituminous tiles.
Drip bar installed along the roof overhangs
The task of the drip bar is to protect the crate, sections of rafters and flooring from moisture. With one edge, the dropper is laid on the flooring, with the second it closes the overhang. It is fastened with galvanized (stainless steel) nails, which are hammered in a checkerboard pattern (one is closer to the fold, the second is almost at the edge). Fastener installation step - 20-25 cm.
The drip bar is sold in two-meter pieces. Having laid the first element, the second is fixed with an overlap of at least 3 cm. If desired, the gap can be closed: grease the joint with bituminous mastic, fill it with sealant. At the same stage, it is mounted, in any case, hooks are nailed that will hold the gutters.
Laying waterproofing carpet
Regardless of the angle of the roof, a waterproofing lining must be laid in and along the slope. It is sold in meter wide rolls. An adhesive is applied to the underside, covered with a protective film or paper. Before laying, the paper is removed, the valley carpet is glued to the flooring.
Installation of a waterproofing carpet begins with laying it in the valley. Roll out the material of a meter width, distributing 50 cm on both sides of the bend. Here it is desirable to do without joints, but, if necessary, the overlap of two canvases should be at least 15 cm. Laying goes from bottom to top, the junction is additionally coated with bitumen mastic, the material is well pressed.
Next, a waterproofing carpet for flexible tiles is laid along the cornice overhang. The minimum width of the carpet on the cornice overhang is the size of the overhang itself, plus 60 cm. First, the carpet is rolled out, if necessary, cut, then the protective film is removed from the inside and glued to the substrate. Additionally, they are fixed along the edges with stainless steel or galvanized nails with a large flat hat (step 20-25 cm).
In places of a horizontal joint, the overlap of two canvases is at least 10 cm, in the vertical direction - at least 15 cm. All joints are additionally coated with bituminous mastic, the material is compressed.
Lining carpet
The lining carpet, as well as the waterproofing carpet, is sold in rolls of meter width, the back side is covered with an adhesive. The laying method depends on the slope of the roof and on the profile of the selected shingles.
When using shingles with cuts (such as Jazz, Trio, Beaver tail), regardless of the slope, the lining carpet is spread over the entire surface of the roof.
Underlayment installation often requires undercutting. This is done with a sharp knife. In order not to damage the material below when cutting, enclose a piece of plywood or OSB.
Fronton (end) plank
Gable strips are mounted on the side sections of the overhangs. These are strips of metal bent in the form of the letter "G", along the fold line of which there is a small protrusion. They cover the laid roofing materials from wind loads, from moisture ingress. The gable plank is laid on the flooring over the lining or waterproofing carpet, fixed with nails (stainless steel or galvanized) in a checkerboard pattern with a step of 15 cm.
These planks also come in pieces of 2 m, stacked with an overlap of at least 3 cm.
Slope marking
To make the installation of soft tiles simple, markings in the form of a grid are applied to the lining carpet or flooring. Do this with a painter's cord. The lines along the cornice overhang are applied at a distance equal to 5 rows of tiles, in the vertical - every meter (the length of one flexible tile shingle). This marking makes laying easier - the edges are leveled along it, it is easier to track distances.
Valley carpet
On top of the already laid waterproofing carpet, another valley material is laid. It is slightly wider, serves as an additional guarantee of no leaks. Without removing the protective film from the underside, it is laid, cut at the bottom in the overhang area, and the boundaries are marked. Deviating from the mark of 4-5 cm, a special mastic of increased fixation Fixer is applied. It is applied from a syringe, with a roller, then rubbed with a spatula into a strip about 10 cm wide.
A valley carpet is laid out on the mastic, the folds are smoothed out, the edges are pressed. Stepping back from the edge by 3 cm, it is fixed with nails in increments of 20 cm.
Connection to a brick pipe
To bypass pipes and ventilation outlets, patterns are made from a valley carpet or galvanized metal, painted in the appropriate color. The surface of the pipe is plastered, treated with a primer.
When using a valley carpet, a pattern is made so that the material enters the pipe by at least 30 cm, and at least 20 cm should remain on the roof.
The pattern is smeared with bitumen mastic, placed in place. the front part is installed first, then the right and left.
Part of the side elements is wrapped on the front part. Back wall installed last. Its parts go to the side.
With proper installation on the flooring around the pipe, a platform is obtained, completely covered with a valley carpet. Before laying tiles in this place, the surface is smeared with bituminous mastic.
The tile from three sides enters the laid carpet, not reaching the walls of the pipe 8 cm.
The upper part of the junction is sealed with a metal strip, which is attached to the dowels.
All gaps are filled with heat-resistant sealant.
Conclusion of round pipes
For the passage of ventilation pipes there are special passage devices. They are positioned so that the lower edge of the element extends over the tile by at least 2 cm.
Having attached the passage element to the roof, its inner hole is circled. According to the applied contour, a hole is cut in the substrate, into which a round pipe is led out.
The back of the skirt of the passage element is smeared with bituminous mastic, set to the desired position, and additionally fastened around the perimeter with nails. When installing soft tiles, the penetration skirt is smeared with mastic.
The shingle is cut as close as possible to the ledge of the penetration, the gap is then filled with mastic, which is covered with a special UV-protective dressing.
starting strip
The installation of soft tiles begins with the laying of the starting strip. Usually it is a ridge-cornice tile or an ordinary one with cut petals. The first element is laid on one of the edges of the slope, going to the edge of the gable plank. The lower edge of the starting strip is laid on the drip, stepping back from its fold 1.5 cm.
Removed from the back before installation. protective film, the shingle is leveled and laid. Each section of bituminous tiles is fastened with four nails - at the corners of each fragment, stepping back from the edge or perforation line 2-3 cm.
If a cut from an ordinary tile is used as a starting strip, in some part of it there will be no adhesive composition. In these places, the substrate is smeared with bituminous mastic.
Installation of soft ordinary tiles
There is a flexible tile with an applied adhesive mass, protected by a film, and there is a composition that does not require a protective film, although it also fixes the elements well on the roof. When using the first type of material, the film is removed immediately before installation.
Before laying bituminous tiles on the roof, several packs are opened - 5-6 pieces. Laying is carried out from all packs at the same time, taking one shingle from each one in turn. Otherwise, there will be pronounced spots on the roof that differ in color.
The first shingle is laid so that its edge does not reach the edge of the starting strip by 1 cm. In addition to the adhesive composition, the tiles are also fixed with roofing nails. The number of fasteners depends on the angle of the slope:
When installing soft tiles, it is important to drive in nails correctly. Hats should be pressed against the shingle, but not break through its surface.
Valley design
With the help of a paint cord in the valley, an area is marked in which nails cannot be driven in - this is 30 cm from the middle of the valley. Then mark the boundaries of the gutter. They can be from 5 to 15 cm in both directions.
The upper corner, which is turned towards the valley, is cut
When laying ordinary shingles, nails are driven in as close as possible to the line beyond which nails cannot be hammered, and shingles are trimmed to the floor of the gutter laying line. To prevent water from flowing under the material, the upper corner of the tile is cut obliquely, cutting off about 4-5 cm. The loose edge of the tile is smeared with bituminous mastic and fixed with nails.
Decoration of the pediment
On the sides of the slope, the tiles are cut so that 1 cm remains to the edge (protrusion) of the end plank. The upper corner of the shingle is cut in the same way as in the valley - a piece of 4-5 cm obliquely. The edge of the tile is smeared with mastic. A strip of mastic - at least 10 cm. Then it is fixed with nails, like the rest of the elements.
If the flooring in the area of the ridge is made solid, a hole is cut along the ridge, which should not reach the end of the rib 30 cm.
It is fixed with long roofing nails. On a long skate, several elements can be used, they are joined end-to-end. The installed metal ridge is covered with ridge tiles. A protective film is removed from it, then the fragment is fixed with four nails (two on each side). The installation of soft tiles on the ridge goes towards the prevailing winds, one fragment overlaps the other by 3-5 cm.
The ridge tile is a ridge-eaves divided into three parts. A perforation is applied on it, a fragment comes off along it (first bend, press the fold, then tear off).
The same elements can be cut from an ordinary tile. It is divided into three parts, not paying attention to the drawing. At the resulting tiles, a corner is cut off - about 2-3 cm on each side. The middle of the fragment is heated with a building hair dryer on both sides, placed in the middle on a bar and, gently pressing, bend over.
Ribs and kinks
The ribs are covered with ridge tiles. A line is beaten off along the bend at the required distance with a masking cord. The edge of the tile is aligned along it. Laying of flexible tiles on the edge goes from bottom to top, each fragment is glued, then stepping back from the top edge of 2 cm, fixed with nails - two on each side. The next fragment comes to the laid 3-5 cm.
A roof made of shingles is aesthetically pleasing. appearance and durability. However, neither one nor the other can be achieved if the installation technology is violated. We offer you to familiarize yourself with the step-by-step instructions for laying shingles.
Installation of tiles
1. Installation of the base
Requires a level and solid foundation. The plank flooring of the roof structure must be strong, dry, even and well ventilated from the inside. It can be made from moisture resistant plywood or sheets of oriented strand board (OSB-3). The flooring can also be made from edged boards 25 mm thick tightly fitted to each other, however, it is better to use moisture-resistant oriented strand boards (OSB-3) or FSF plywood for frequent use. In both cases, gaps of 3-5 mm thick must be made between the sheets to compensate for wood deformations. Thickness sheet material choose, based on the pitch of the boards of the crate, the slopes of the slopes, but in any case, it should be at least 9 mm.
Pay attention to the shade - it may differ slightly in different packs, therefore, in order to create a color balance on the roof, shingles from 4-7 packs are mixed with each other. It is better to install the roof in dry weather with minimum temperature ambient air up to + 5 degrees. If this is not possible, then the roofing for flexible tiles is prepared in advance: tile shingles are kept in a warm room for about a day after transportation. And at the stage of fastening the shingles, the packs are best served also from warm room, about 5-6 packs, and in the process of attaching the shingles, it is better to warm up the adhesive layer with a building hair dryer.
2. Fixing the cornice boards
Cornice boards suffer from exposure to moisture, and meanwhile, gutters are usually attached to them. Strengthen and protect the eaves with a special metal bar. The cornice is reinforced with painted metal cornice strips. They are fastened to the boardwalk with special roofing nails in a checkerboard pattern - with a step of 12-15 cm. The overlap of the planks should be 30-50 mm.
3. Choice of underlayment
The carpet is made from two types of material. In the valleys and on the cornices, a self-adhesive underlayment carpet with a very strong polyester rot-resistant backing and a fine-grained sandy top layer will be used.
Along the internal fractures of the roof (valleys), a valley carpet should be laid over the lining carpet; on the back side of its edge, it is required to smear with mastic to a width of about 10 cm.
On the rest of the area, you can use a light lining material with a non-rotting polyester base and a non-slip polypropylene coating or a material with a fiberglass base and a double-sided dressing with mechanical fixation and an adhesive layer in places of horizontal overlaps.
4. Laying underlay carpets
Due to the capillary effect and under the influence of wind, moisture can seep under the coating. For additional sealing, self-adhesive (at the cornice overhangs) and fixed with nails (on the rest of the roof area) lining carpets are used.
The lining carpet is made from a special rolled material. It makes it more airtight and will be better if it is laid over the entire roof area. The rolling of the carpet is carried out horizontally, from the cornice overhang with horizontal overlaps of at least 10 cm. It is important to consider that on this overhang the material should deviate from the bend by 1-2 cm (for an average roof). The width of the indent depends on the length and angle of inclination of the slope itself.
Entrances to the cornice and pediment, as well as overlaps, are smeared with bituminous mastic using a spatula. Thickness of mastic - no more than 1 mm. At the end of the installation, the roll material is carefully fixed along the edges with roofing nails with a wide head. Step - 20-25 cm.
5. Strengthening the gable overhang
The gable part of the roof needs protection from ultraviolet radiation, moisture, wind, and mechanical influences.
To do this, painted metal end strips are attached to the gable overhangs, over the lining carpet, which are smeared in the process of laying the tiles themselves. To the supporting structure of the roof, the planks are fastened with roofing nails in increments of 10-15 cm in a checkerboard pattern.
6. Device valley
The valley, as you know, has a concave corner that collects the most moisture, so the correct installation of the roofing pie in this place will largely ensure reliable operation building.
Consider the so-called "open" method of mounting the valley. On top of the lining carpet, along the axis of the valley, a special roofing material is laid - a valley carpet, for example, from TechnoNIKOL. Along the perimeter of the back side, it is smeared with bituminous mastic to a width of 10-12 cm.
On the front side, the carpet is nailed with roofing nails with an indent from the edge of 2-3 cm. Fastening step: 20-25 cm.
7. Tiling
For convenience, before making the installation of a roof made of flexible tiles and maintaining the necessary geometry, horizontal and vertical markings are made on the lining carpet.
In this case, the vertical lines should correspond to the width of one sheet, the horizontal lines should be about 80 cm, which is about five rows of flexible tiles. Note that the markup is just a guide and not a fastener pattern.
- Laying begins horizontally along the eaves. The first strip is made with the help of universal ridge-cornice tiles. You can also use an ordinary, selected collection, but you will need to cut off the tiled “petals” from the shingle.
- Sheets are glued from the bend of the eaves of 1-2 cm, and additionally nailed. If an ordinary trimmed version is used as a “start”, then the back side of the shingle must be smeared with mastic where there is no adhesive layer.
- The second row is mounted from the center of the ramp - offset to the left or right by half the "petal".
- Further, the installation goes diagonally from the center of the slope in the form of a strip or pyramid. The elements are laid with an overlap of at least 15 cm with an adhesive layer. It is located on the back side of the shingles. Additionally, the shingles are attached to the base of the roof using special galvanized nails with wide heads.
- From the side gable overhang it is necessary to cut off the upper corner of the shingle to repel rainwater. The shingle itself should be pushed back by 2 cm relative to the overhang. This is necessary for the free flow of water. Also, to protect against oblique rain, it must be smeared in the pediment area with mastic, to a depth of 10 cm.
8. Laying the tiled valley
When the laying process has reached the valley, then at this node, shingles of flexible tiles are laid in a chaotic manner on top of the valley carpet, after which they are cut so that the central axis of the valley becomes open, 5-15 cm wide (see the figure below).
When cutting under the shingles, a plank should be placed so as not to damage the underlying insulation materials. After that, the back places of sheets of flexible tiles that do not have an adhesive layer in the places where they adjoin the valley are smeared with mastic. Each shingle is fixed with roofing nails in the upper part no closer than 30 cm from the axis of the valley.
9. Mounting the ribs of the slopes
The ribs of the slopes are formed by shingles of special ridge-cornice tiles. Laying is carried out from the bottom to the top, and is attached to the base with four nails - two on each side.
10. Laying shingles
The shingles of the overlying row must be shifted relative to the shingle of the underlying row by at least 15 cm. The shingles that form the joint of the roof are cut along the axis. Then a slot is made for the lining carpet and the roof structure itself for the passage of air - at a certain interval and indent from the edge of the roof.
11. Coating with aerator
In the case of a ridge, they are covered with a plastic roofing aerator. He will allow excess moisture freely exit from the under-roof space. The aerator is covered with ridge-cornice tiles; each element is fixed with two nails. Laying should be carried out from the side opposite to the prevailing wind direction.
12. Installation of connections
The joints mainly include the joints of the roof slope with horizontal and inclined walls, as well as chimneys. At the junction of the slope and the wall, a wooden triangular rail is nailed, on which the adjoining element is inserted. If it needs to be plastered and covered with a bituminous primer, because a valley carpet is laid on the walls and on top of the flexible tiles - to a height of 30-50 cm. The entire rear area is covered with mastic. The sealing of chimneys and ventilation pipes is made from a pattern of a valley carpet. The upper part of the carpet is wound into a stub and closed with a metal apron, followed by sealing.
There is one caveat here - the installation of the pattern should take into account the cascading of water. Therefore, the front part of the pattern is first mounted, it goes onto the ordinary tile by 20 cm. The left, right and back parts "go" under the tile. The back pattern is mounted last.
The indentation from the side of the pipe and the rear is approximately 8 cm. All junctions where there is no self-adhesive layer must be glued with mastic. If the pipe is wide - more than 50 cm, then a groove is made from the back.
13. Fastening penetrations
Antennas, ventilation pipes and other roofing elements are sealed with special passage elements resembling an apron, whose lower edge is laid on top of a sheet suitable from below. Everything else is covered with shingles using mastic. Note that the passage element is pre-attached to roof base nails.
If you have any questions before installation, then as an addition, we recommend watching the video installation instructions for TechnoNIKOL Shinglas multi-layer tiles.
- Material prepared: Vladimir Grigoriev
