Interior decoration of the steam room and sink: how to finish, what options are there, examples with photos. Finishing the bath from the inside: the necessary minimum work before operating the steam room How to finish the steam room in a wooden bath

Wood is a material that has long been used for facing baths and saunas. It is there that the tree reveals its properties in the best way - the ability to create a microclimate and perfectly retain heat.

In truth, there is simply no alternative to wood for use in humid and hot environments. Accordingly, it is better to sheathe the bath from the inside with a wooden clapboard. Below is the technology for the phased lining of the bath with clapboard inside.

Finishing the lining of a bath or sauna has its own characteristics, which must be taken into account even at the stage of selecting wood.

When choosing lining for facing the bath, you need to consider:

• high temperature;
• temperature fluctuations (differences);
• humidity level;
• budget.

What lining to choose for a bath

Selection criteria are determined by the characteristics and properties of lumber:

1. Board type

For finishing with a pair of wooden clapboard, it is better to give preference to eurolining.

• Firstly, because it has a large groove-tooth system (the length of the ridge reaches 8 mm).

• Secondly, because it is guaranteed to have compensation slots on the back of the lamella, which contributes to the ventilation of the coating and prevents possible cracking of the lamella.

• Thirdly, because the lining is already pre-treated with wood protection products that can be used in the bath.

2. Variety of lining

For a steam room, only the first or highest (elite) grade of wood is suitable in which there are no knots, wormholes, etc. Please note that even live knots can gradually fall out under the influence of temperature changes.

3. Type of wood

To understand which lining for a bath is better, you need to know the characteristics of each breed. We will not review all the breeds available on the market, but will focus on those recommended by professionals.

Finishing clapboard baths can be made of hardwood and coniferous wood. The choice depends on the purpose of the bath room: steam room, dressing room, washing room, shower room, as well as on the properties of the wood itself.

The most popular material for a steam room in a bath or sauna is lining made of hardwood. Their common advantage is that the wood does not heat up in the sauna, and cannot cause burns when touched, and is also resistant to moisture.

Lining linden for a bath

The most popular for saunas and baths is linden lining. The advantages of this wood are the ability to create a special microclimate. From a utilitarian point of view, an undoubted argument in favor of lime lining will be the strength of the rock, resistance to drying out, as well as the beautiful color and structure of the wood. Linden is considered an energy donor.

Aspen lining for a bath

The second most popular place for baths is occupied by aspen lining. Aspen wood is beautiful, soft and easy to work with. The peculiarity of the breed is that over time, aspen lining becomes only stronger.

Aspen is also good because it provides easy care for lining in the steam room. It is enough to lightly sand it when it starts to darken. And popular belief says that aspen draws negative energy from a person.

Lining from an alder for a bath

In third place was an alder lining. From a medical point of view, alder is good because it contains tannins. The wood of this breed is hygroscopic, has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity. However, the high cost hinders its ubiquitous distribution.

Note. Lining made of linden, aspen, alder is usually sold in short pieces. Commercial length up to 3 m. This should be taken into account when planning the finishing of the bath and making the calculation of the material.

Oak lining for a bath

The most expensive and difficult to process material is oak lining for a bath. But it does not rot, does not lose its properties and can be installed in a sauna without the slightest additional processing. Unfortunately, all this is not available to everyone due to the high cost of oak lining.

A similar situation is with ash clapboard - a very expensive and rare lumber for bath sheathing.

A common disadvantage of hardwood lining is that it loses color over time and needs to be protected.

Conifers are rarely used in the steam room. Because the resin that the lining of coniferous species (pine, spruce) emits makes it practically unsuitable for use in a steam room. They are more suitable for washing and dressing rooms. This is facilitated by indicators such as resistance to moisture and low price. In addition, coniferous lining is easier to process, has a beautiful structure and a rich palette of shades, allows you to veneer rounded shapes and does not need additional processing (with the exception of deresining). Often a pleasant coniferous aroma also becomes an argument in favor of lining from needles.

Do-it-yourself sheathing of a bath with clapboard inside

Ways of fastening lining

The first step is to choose a method of fastening the lining. There is no unequivocal answer on how to properly fix the lining in the bath, horizontally or vertically (along or across). Each master defends his point of view. But summarizing their statements and user reviews, we can draw conclusions regarding the ways of laying the lining.

Laying lining along has become more widespread due to the relative simplicity, convenience and high speed of work, and due to this, the lower cost of installation. Moisture (condensate) easily flows down the vertically arranged lamellae. But, by the way, it also easily rises up the microcapillaries that make up the wood. With this fastening, the tongue-and-groove system is more protected from water ingress.

The vertical fastening of the lining allows you to accumulate more heat inside the steam room, again, because horizontal mount the crate beam interferes with the free movement of air. Experts note that vertical cladding is justified for saunas with their dry steam regime.

Laying the lining across has advantages in view of the fact that the board is fastened with a spike up, which means that water ingress is also unlikely, as with vertical. With a horizontal fastening of the lining, a vertical frame (crate) is equipped, which contributes to the natural circulation of air between the panels and the wall.

Another argument in favor of the horizontal laying of the lining in the bath (steam room) is the ease of replacing the boards below. The fact is that the floor in the bath is not just a wet place, but a wet place. Naturally, the lower boards are subject to more rapid decay than the upper ones. Replacing several bottom boards is easier than cutting off the bottom of all vertical ones. In addition, shrinkage from constant temperature changes is more noticeable on a vertical mount. The horizontal method of fastening the lining is better for those who have a classic wet Russian bath.

Based on the foregoing, everyone can decide for himself how to fix the lining in the bath - vertically or horizontally.

Finishing the sauna with clapboard provides for the device of the crate. This is due to the fact that the presence of the crate makes it possible to insulate the sauna.

If there is no such need, then air circulates freely between the frame, condensate drains, the likelihood of rotting of the lining, the appearance of fungus and mold on the walls is reduced.

The crate for the lining for the bath is made only from a bar, which is covered with a primer. The use of galvanized profiles for drywall is unacceptable.

The crate in the bath makes it possible to organize the wiring in the steam room. For example, under the lamps.

Note. To protect against moisture, the wires are laid in a metal corrugation.

The internal insulation of the bath consists of several layers. Insulation in such a wet room needs special fastening.

To begin with, waterproofing is laid on the wall. It can be nailed to the wall or fixed with battens.

Cotton wool is placed between the bars of the crate. By the way, cut with an overlap of 10 mm. cotton wool will tightly settle between the frame beam and will be securely fixed in them. A foil vapor barrier film is laid on top of the cotton wool, which reflects heat. The vapor barrier is fixed with a stapler to the beams of the crate.

The film is overlapped and must be glued with aluminum tape. Next, narrow slats are stuffed, the so-called counter-rail. Boards up to 20 mm thick are used for the countertop. The purpose of the countertop is to provide a ventilation gap between the lining and the vapor barrier.

A simpler option is to use foil-coated basalt wool, which is laid with foil to the lining (also with a gap).

An important condition for full functioning is ventilation in the bath.

Therefore, when installing the crate and laying the insulation, do not forget to mark a place for ventilation holes.

It is preferable to use an aluminum corrugation with a diameter of 100 mm as an air duct. We remind you that for effective ventilation in the bath you need to place one hole under the ceiling, and the second at a height of 150-300 mm from the floor. Preferably next to the stove.

Note. Place ventilation holes need in accessible places to be able to regulate the flow of air.

Only non-combustible heat-insulating material is used in the sauna. That is why the use of foam is excluded. It is better to give preference to basalt wool.

Installation of lining in the steam room

Fastening the lining in the bath is done exclusively by a hidden method. Experts attribute this to three factors:

• Firstly, the hardware, twisted through, heats up and there is a risk of getting unpleasant sensations while touching the attachment point.

• Secondly, rough hardware can rust and ruin the lining surface.

• Thirdly, such a mount looks somewhat primitive and affects the appearance of the room.

Hidden fastening methods include the use of nails, clamps or self-tapping screws. Regarding self-tapping screws, it should be noted additionally that the self-tapping screw can be twisted from the front side of the board, however, it must be closed with a wooden plug.

This method is quite laborious, so users are advised to fix the wooden lining with their own hands using nails and kleimers.

How to sheathe the ceiling in the bath clapboard

Finishing the steam room, as well as other rooms of the bath, starts from the ceiling. This is due to the fact that large thermal gaps are left on the ceiling, and the wall lamellas must rest against the ceiling.

Installation of wooden lining on the ceiling begins from the side of the entrance and is carried out only on nails or kleimer. And the point here is not even in the visual effect, but in the fact that the finishing nail is not able to withstand the weight of the ceiling from the lining.

The boards that are nailed last are difficult to “plant” on the kleimer or drive a nail into the groove. In this case, he uses a finishing (hidden) nail that does not have a hat. In order not to damage the front surface of the lining, the nail should be finished with a finisher. And the installation site of the nail is cleaned with sandpaper to avoid the appearance of roughness and, as a result, a splinter.

It is important that the ends of the lining are located at a distance of 40-50 mm from the wall of the bath. This is due to the fact that under the ceiling there is a higher temperature and the lamellas “play” more. And also with the need to leave a ventilation gap for air circulation through the wall.

How to sheathe the walls in the bath clapboard

Wall decoration with clapboard starts from the corner of the room (steam room, sauna) and is implemented similarly to the installation of clapboard on the ceiling.

When installing, it should be noted that water can rise through the wood to a height of up to half a meter with a vertical mount and half as low with a horizontal mount. Therefore, at a height of 10-30 mm. a gap is left from the floor, which will protect the lower boards from rotting.

It is impossible to join the lamellas of the wooden lining to the stop, as is done in the house, in the sauna. The tree swells and shrinks from humidity and temperature, so there must be a compensation gap for the “movement” of the wood. The consequences of improper fastening (deformation, discrepancy) are shown in the photo.

How to make a gap between the lining?

Execution technology: the next board is driven into the previous one until it stops. Then several marks are made along the seam lines (preferably not with a pencil, but with a sharp object). Then the board moves relative to the previous and intended marks. Since the lamella moves by eye, each subsequent board must be checked with a level.

Advice. Mounting the lining on the wall will look more beautiful if you withstand the docking of the boards on the ceiling and wall.

The upper ends of the boards adjoin the ceiling closely.

Fixing skirting boards for wall paneling and decorative elements

Plinth, corners, other accessories for finishing the sauna can not be "planted" on the glue. For their fastening, only finishing nails are used, followed by grinding of the installation site.

How to sheathe a doorway with clapboard

Doorways are given special attention. The slopes in them are finished with the help of lining, cut to desired length. And the openings themselves are framed with platbands.

How to sheathe clapboard slopes on windows

Directly in paired windows they are rarely equipped, more often they are made in a dressing room or washing room. In any case, it will not be superfluous to know how to make slopes from lining.

In order to simplify the installation of lining, professionals advise to install a slope in window opening using the starting bar to the plastic lining. Then the wooden lamella is inserted into the bar with one end, and the second is attached to the crate beam. This framing method is ideal for its simplicity, and is suitable for those who install in the bath metal-plastic windows. But, it should be remembered that the thickness of the starting profile is 10 mm.

The second installation option is to install a frame for the slope, lining it with clapboard and then decorating the place where the clapboard adjoins the window with decorative strips.

This method of finishing the slopes with clapboard is best used by those who have wooden windows installed in the bath.

If the thickness of the wall is small and the slope is not wide, then you can veneer it with a wooden lining for lining.

The material was prepared for the site www.site

Finishing washing in the bath clapboard

Installation of lining in a washing room is carried out similarly to installation in a steam room, but it should be remembered that the bottom boards or ends of the boards during vertical laying should be at least 30 mm apart. from the floor.

Users note that plastic panels and PVC lining have proven themselves well in the interior of the washing room. Wood decor allows you to create the desired design and at the same time ensure long-term operation of the finish. Ceramic tiles and tiles also look great in the sink.

How to sheathe the dressing room of the bath with clapboard

The dressing room is designed to leave your things in it and take a break after soaring. In more modern versions baths, the dressing room serves as a rest room in which furniture and appliances are installed. Due to the fact that this room is not much different from any other in the house, the installation of the lining does not differ in features.

Due to flammability, lining near the furnace firebox is not mounted. It is better to finish the furnace place with brick, stone, in last resort, sheet metal or other non-combustible materials.

It is worth noting that on the ceiling it is also not allowed to connect the chimney pipe to the lining. Therefore, a screen is installed on the ceiling from of stainless steel. Behind the screen, the pipe should be wrapped with basalt wool.

Installation of lining near the sauna heater

But the heater (the place where stones traditional for the Russian bath are stacked) is not only possible, but necessary to finish the lining. Moreover, preference should be given to hardwood lining. Due to the fact that wood heats up less than stone, the wood finish of the heater will protect sauna users from thermal burns.

Now you are familiar with how the lining is installed in separate rooms of the bath, you know how to fix the lining in the bath correctly. So, there are no obstacles to finishing the bath with a wooden clapboard with your own hands.

The construction of the bath itself is, of course, a more complex process, but it does not mean at all that the interior decoration of the bath plays a lesser role. It is she who creates the atmosphere and environment in which you will carry out steam procedures and relax, and also directly affects the durability of the building itself.

In the bath difficult conditions: a lot of steam, high temperature, constant temperature fluctuations, high humidity. In such an environment, not every material will be able to maintain its appearance and not collapse, so you need to approach its choice with all responsibility.

All materials used in interior decoration bath rooms must meet the following conditions:

• hygiene, the development of fungus and mold can Negative influence not only on her appearance, but also on our health;
• resistance to hot air, since steam is an integral part of bath procedures;
• environmental friendliness, it is unacceptable that the material releases harmful chemicals during heat;
• strength and durability, frequent repairs significantly hit the budget;
• resistance to moisture, in the steam room there is always high humidity;
• decorativeness, after all, finishing is also needed to decorate the room, it is important that it be aesthetically attractive.

The most popular material for finishing the bath inside is wood. It is natural, has high performance and gives a special atmosphere. But keep in mind that not all types of wood are suitable.

Cannot be used for finishing pine. It contains resins, they are released when heated, in large quantities they can be dangerous for people who take a steam bath. In addition, it heats up, and because of this it will be quite unpleasant to touch it.

It is also prohibited to use the following materials: Fiberboard, chipboard, linoleum. When heated, they release harmful substances, and also do not withstand exposure to moisture - they begin to swell and collapse.

But these materials are quite suitable for decorating a dressing room or a recreation area. For example, the same pine exudes a pleasant coniferous aroma. And if you look at the photo of the bath inside, you can see that it also has a pleasant appearance.

But what materials are suitable for finishing the steam room in the bath? Photos, recommendations

The most popular finishing material, which can be seen on almost all photos of the interior decoration of the bath, is. It is a comfortable material that is great for making your own bath decoration. The material is made of wood and is made in the form of panels that visually level the surface and look neat. Lining provides ventilation to the walls, protects them from condensation, mold and mildew, and helps regulate humidity.

The best options are lining made of linden, larch, birch, aspen and poplar. Deciduous trees do not emit resin when heated, they dry quickly, so the likelihood of fungus is minimized.

Larch is the most durable material, it easily tolerates temperature fluctuations and feels great in high humidity conditions.

Linden has an attractive white color that looks beautiful and spectacular. It is moisture resistant and does not deform; it heats up the least of all tree species, so linden is often used to decorate the ceiling. This material exudes a pleasant and light aroma.

Aspen is also a popular material for finishing a steam room. It is highly durable, resistant to moisture and has no cracks. By the way, that is why it is often used as a floor covering.

The alder is a material, strong and equal on structure. It has a beautiful light brown color with a pink tint, and, importantly, does not absorb foreign odors.

It doesn’t matter which breed you choose, if you look at the photo of the lining of the bath, you can be sure that any option looks neat and beautiful.

The interior of the steam room does not allow the use of wood covered with varnish or paint, because when heated, they will begin to evaporate, get into the air and may worsen your well-being.

Finishing the bath with your own hands begins with the floor. It is recommended to raise it relative to other other rooms by 15-20 cm. This will help to keep warm better and protect the floor from drafts.

Clay, concrete and wood are commonly used as floor coverings. As finish coat it is recommended to choose sanded boards or tiles.

If we talk about how to make a floor for a bath, then everything is quite simple here: the boards are laid on logs as close to each other as possible, fastened with self-tapping screws. If you have chosen a tile, then you first need to make a screed to level the floor. After using the adhesive mixture, the tiles are laid. The floor in the bath should be made with a slight slope, and a drain should be installed so that the floors dry faster.

But keep in mind, tile is a slippery material, so it's better to put it on top wooden pallets, they will ensure the safety of visitors to the bath.

Wall and ceiling decoration in the steam room: photos of interiors inside the bath, tips

It is important that the steam room stay warm for as long as possible, so you need to make a reliable vapor barrier. When you do the decoration of the bath with your own hands, you can choose different variants: glassine, foil, jute or stone wool. There is also a combined version - foamed polypropylene with foil. The edges of the foil must be connected with special tape.

Lining should not be close to the foil and insulation. You need to leave a gap.

For the ceiling, the same material is usually used as for the walls. It is important to consider that it is not worth saving on the ceiling covering, since it is under it that the maximum temperature will be.

Photo of finishing the bath inside:

For more information on how to make a lining in the bath with your own hands, see this video:

Finishing the bath inside with your own hands also implies the design of shelves and benches, without them it is difficult to imagine a bath, you can sit on them or even lie down to relax well. Usually they are made in a rounded shape, since it is the most convenient and safe.

It is important that the shelves, sunbeds and benches are strong, they should not stagger or creak. For their manufacture, soft wood is suitable, always without resin.

First you need to nail special posts from a bar, and then boards or lining are attached to them with nails or wooden pegs, there should be a distance between them so that the water does not stagnate on the benches, and the wood dries faster.

The washing compartment is a shower cabin, complemented by special shelves for shower accessories. It can be combined with a steam room, in which case its decoration is the same as in that room.

In this room, the temperature is not as high as in the steam room, so coniferous trees can be used here. Resins will not stand out, while a pleasant coniferous aroma will appear in the room. Pine, spruce, cedar and larch are suitable for washing.

Another option is tile, but in this case, you need to remember about wooden coasters or special rubber mats.

During the construction of the bath, there comes a moment when it is necessary to decide on its interior decoration. Here it is very important to choose a material that will not only be beautiful and functional, but also be able to withstand a specific microclimate. this room. Based on this, many are wondering how to inexpensively sheathe a bathhouse inside and what qualities should the selected material have? A properly equipped steam room is the key to a comfortable and pleasant stay, which is why the finishing of all its surfaces must be approached as responsibly as possible. In this article, we will consider in detail the process of landscaping this room, starting from the choice of materials and ending with the technology of their installation.

Choosing the Right Material

To the question of how inexpensively sheathe a bathhouse inside, there is one correct answer - with a tree. Why exactly them? Because it is the only 100% natural material that meets all the requirements for use in rooms with high humidity and high temperatures. This finish gives the space a special aesthetics, creates a pleasant atmosphere, and most importantly, perfectly retains heat.

For those who are interested in how to sheathe a bathhouse inside, besides wood, we should mention glass-magnesium sheets. This new material, which is made from wood chips and fiberglass with the addition of various binders.

The plates are produced in light colors and can be used in rooms with high humidity. Since this is a relatively new product, it is rarely used for bath cladding, so we will not dwell on it for a long time.

From wooden materials are actively used: block house, panels and lining. For a bath, these options are considered the most suitable.

What wood should be chosen for a bath?

Being engaged in finishing walls and ceilings, it is not at all necessary to limit yourself to any one type of wood. The combination of various varieties that differ in shade will make it possible to make a more interesting and extraordinary design. But, before deciding which tree to sheathe the bath inside, you should take into account the properties and performance characteristics of each tree species.

Facing the ceiling and walls, it is better to use larch, linden, aspen and cedar. It is extremely undesirable to place pine materials in the steam room, since when heated they emit a pungent odor into the air, which can interfere with a comfortable rest.

But for finishing dressing rooms and rest rooms, this option is optimal. Pine has a beautiful texture, is easy to process and has a very attractive cost.

steam room and washing room it is better to sheathe with linden and larch.

These tree species are able to retain their original color for a long time and practically do not heat up under the influence of high temperature.

Steam room decoration

To finish the surfaces of the steam room, only high-quality materials should be selected. Most often, lining is used here. For a bath, a board of the highest class from hardwood is chosen.

The slats are located in a horizontal or vertical position and are fastened with nails, adhesives or staples in a secret way. In order to ensure reliable retention of heat and steam inside the room, a layer of heat-insulating material is placed on the walls.

For this purpose, can be used:

• foil;
• mineral wool;
• polystyrene foam covered with foil;
• parchment, etc.

It is very important that there is air space between the lining and the insulation. This can be achieved by mounting the crate on which it will be installed facing material. The distance between the rails should be no more than 50 cm.

The finished frame and lining are covered with an antiseptic. Processing is carried out before assembly. Wall cladding starts from any corner of the room, fixing the boards on both sides, with any of the above fasteners.

Floor covering: wood or ceramic?

The temperature in the steam room at floor level usually does not exceed 30 degrees, so they can be made of any material. It is more important to make the correct and quick draining of water from the bath. The rough floor is covered with a plank flooring, on which a polished floorboard or ceramic tiles.

Comparing these two coatings, it should be noted that the tile is more durable. This is due to the fact that under the influence of moisture, the wood darkens, rots and fails after a while. Ceramics, in turn, is not afraid of humidity, temperature changes and is not subject to rot and mold.

Despite this, very often it is wooden floors that are laid in the baths. This material harmonizes perfectly with the surrounding interior and is much more pleasant when touched with bare feet.

Considering how it is inexpensive to sheathe a bath inside, it is worth dwelling in detail on the installation technology of both options.

Wooden floor finish

The process of finishing the floor with wooden materials is very simple. First of all, the logs are laid on which the boards are mounted. They are placed on brick columns, which are installed on the base of the floor. For a log, choose boards measuring 20 x 20 or 25 x 25. They are laid in increments of no more than 1 meter. The floor level in the steam room must be 10-15 centimeters higher than in other rooms of the bath. This is necessary so that you do not leave the steam room for as long as possible. warm air. For laying the finished floor, grooved or edged material is used, at least 30 cm thick.

Before sheathing the bath inside with a board, all lining and logs must be pre-treated with an antiseptic composition. This will protect them from colonization by microorganisms and extend the life of the wooden floor.

Finishing floors with ceramic tiles

For safe movement for floors, you should choose tiles with a rough surface. This will make them less slippery when in contact with water.

For styling ceramic coating it is necessary to make a solid concrete base. The surface must be perfectly clean, even and dry. Immediately before laying, the tiles are soaked in water for a couple of minutes. This is necessary so that it does not absorb moisture from the solution and the floor lining is of the highest quality and durable.

From the most noticeable corner of the room, begin laying tiles using sand-cement mortar or moisture resistant adhesive. At the end of the work, the seams are hidden with a special moisture-resistant grout. It helps protect tiles from mold.

For more comfortable movement on the tile, you can place flooring on the floor, knocked down from wooden slats. Such designs are convenient in that they can be taken out of the steam room to dry.

Price

In order to properly plan your own budget, you need to understand how much it costs to sheathe a bath inside. The final amount depends on who will perform the finishing work and how high-quality material is chosen for finishing.

If you plan to hire specialists to equip the bath, you need to be prepared to pay for their services. So, the installation of the crate is estimated at 130 rubles per m2. Facing the walls and ceiling with clapboard will cost the owner of the premises from 350-500 rubles per m2.

In the event that the walls inside the bath will be sheathed with my own hands, only expenses for the purchase of lining and related materials are taken into account.

A board of the highest quality made of linden costs about 500-600 rubles per m2.

Lining made of larch will cost 250-350 rubles per m2, while material made of coniferous wood has a price tag of 150-200 rubles m2.

To these costs should be added the cost of fasteners, bars and thermal insulation.

Conclusion

In this article, we found out how and with what it is inexpensive to sheathe a bath inside. In order to save internal arrangement the premises can be done independently, without resorting to the expensive help of specialists. After facing the floors, walls and ceiling, you need to take care of lighting and furniture installation. A variety of shelves and hooks will not be superfluous, on which you can put personal items and hang towels. After completing all the work, you can start bathing procedures and enjoy your vacation with relatives and friends.

How to sheathe and insulate a steam room

Preliminary and finishing sheathing of the steam room are important points in the construction of the bath. How this will happen, what the result will be, depends solely on the taste, financial capabilities and skills of the owners. The main thing is to do everything right and not to miss important moments.

Preparatory work before sheathing

First you need to make a sketch. Perhaps you would prefer to make one wall of stone or natural stone tiles, and sheathe the rest with wood, maybe stop at the traditional option for the entire room - clapboard, decide to use glass or something completely original. Do not forget that all materials must be resistant to water and high temperatures, as well as bioinert, that is, unsuitable for microbial life. As you prepare, consider:

• where to install the stove, what kind it is (electric, solid fuel, liquid fuel; gas);
• what finishing materials will be used for the floor, walls, ceiling;
• where will the lights be placed?
• what material will the steam room be insulated inside;
• type of hydro and vapor barrier.

The walls and floor around the stove are sheathed with non-combustible materials. This requirement can be neglected only if a gas or electric furnace is used.

After the final version of the steam room sheathing is determined, you can proceed to the construction of an accurate drawing and the calculation of materials. It is assumed that by this time the stove and the chimney to it, if necessary, have already been installed. To do everything right, the skin must be carried out in the following order:

• walls;
• ceiling.

There are exceptions, but it is better to stick to this sequence. In this case, possible alterations will be minimized. There may be several options for finishing the floor in a room with very high temperatures.

1. Ceramic tiles are a rational solution for maintaining room hygiene. To make it more pleasant for the legs, you can lay wooden lattices on top.
2. Natural stone is a spectacular, but rather expensive option.
3. Boards. It is important to choose the right type of wood.
4. Clapboard or block house. It is also necessary to stop the choice on the optimal type of wood in terms of price and quality.

Advice from the master!

Any of these options is good, it all depends on the capabilities of the owners. The complexity of the work will be approximately the same.

Stage 1: warming and sheathing the floor of the steam room

The floor and ceiling are the main sources of heat leakage, so they need to be isolated as much as possible. If you take up finishing and insulation, then it is assumed that the subfloor is already ready. The floor can be done immediately on top of the draft or on the screed. The device layout will be very similar. If you plan to make a wooden floor indoors, then the layers of the “pie” will be as follows (listing from bottom to top):

1. Draft floor. It is roughly processed boards or other wood-based materials with low hygroscopicity. Draft boards are laid on top of the bars attached to the logs.
2. waterproofing layer. It will protect the insulation from moisture coming from outside the bath. It can be bulk insulation, ordinary PE, special materials.
3. Insulation. It is best to use expanded clay - it retains heat well and is inexpensive. Glass wool, mineral wool, polystyrene foam or ready-made multilayer materials (insulation with waterproofing) are also suitable.
4. Another layer of waterproofing.
5. Air gap. Between the finishing sheathing of the steam room and the waterproofing, it is necessary to fill the slats so that the moisture does not stagnate and does not have contact with the boards from below.
6. We fill the crate and attach the finishing floor to it.

If the floor in the bath will be with ceramic tiles, then it is better, but not necessary, to do concrete screed. In this case, the "pie" is as follows:

Advice from the master!

Important: if a lot of water gets on the floor, you need to make it with a slope, equip a drainage system.

If you plan to sheathe with wood, then it should be made of dense, waterproof wood species impregnated with antifungal and water-repellent compounds. You can make a removable wooden floor, which will be disassembled into sections for drying.

Stage 2: insulation of the walls and ceiling of the steam room

By this time, a stove and a chimney to it, if needed, should be installed inside the steam room. Windows and doors can already be inserted without installing slopes / platbands. Then you don’t have to carefully trim the lining - all the flaws will hide behind the decorative elements of the openings.

• Even before we begin to deal specifically with the decoration of the walls and ceiling inside our steam room, we need to resolve the issue with the electrician. We install plastic boxes and lay cables in them. Can be attached to walls and ceilings with holders. Further, when we lay the layers of the wall and ceiling "pie", do not forget to bring the wires out. The wires must be intact to avoid short circuits. It is better to choose lamps in housings in a moisture-proof design.
• We build wall and ceiling "pies", starting with a waterproofing layer. We waterproof the walls with a liquid composition or film.
• We fill the crate, between the layers of which the insulation will be attached. The pitch of the vertical rails is selected according to the size of the insulation sheets, if it has factory dimensions. If the material is rolled, then the optimal step will be 60–70 cm. The depth of the crate should be such that a layer of insulation, screen waterproofing can easily fit there and there is still an air gap that is necessary for proper air circulation. We fix the crate: to the tree - with self-tapping screws, to concrete - with dowels.

Advice from the master!

Important: The crate must be set at the same vertical and horizontal levels. If some boards stick out or "sink", then it will be difficult to fix the lining later.

• We install insulation inside the crate. We start from the bottom, we lay the sheets very tightly.
• To prevent the insulation from getting wet, we protect it with a waterproofing layer. And in order not to lose heat, this waterproofing should also be a thermal screen. So the ideal choice is a roll waterproofer with foil. We fix it on the crate with slats. All joints between the pieces of the roll (overlapping) are glued with adhesive tape or fastened with a stapler.

Stage 3: horizontal cladding of walls and ceiling with a pair of clapboard

Before sheathing the steam room, it is necessary to process the existing frame and lining with a bio- and moisture-proof coating. What to do first - floor or ceiling, does not really matter, but the pros prefer the ceiling. You have to choose between horizontal and vertical installation lining on the wall. Horizontal plating is preferable for two reasons:

1. If the lower rails start to deteriorate from water and fungus, they can be easily replaced. If the same thing happens in the steam room, where the lining is mounted vertically, then the material will have to be completely removed.
2. Horizontal layout makes the room visually larger.

Before laying the lining, you need to put it in the steam room for 1-2 days so that the boards get the right humidity and temperature. Then they will give minimal shrinkage.

The lining is laid from the floor of the steam room, starting with the groove down. Fastened with small galvanized nails or clamps to the frame. Each subsequent board is driven onto the lower spike with a wooden or rubber mallet to keep the connection strong.

It is necessary to carry out the sheathing of the steam room, starting from the corner. Then finish the adjacent wall and so on. If the lining was short, then the joints are poured mounting foam. A decorative wooden lath is stuffed on top of it (do not use plastic or other materials!).

At the end of the wall cladding, the corners are closed similarly to the finishing of the joints. Now you can move on to the ceiling, which is sheathed in the same way as the walls. At the end of the work, a wooden plinth is stuffed around the perimeter of the ceiling. We sheathe the walls and floor around the stove with stainless steel sheets, and the job is done.

Advice from the master!

The work on the lining inside the steam room is over. It remains only to do the installation of lighting, furniture and finishing decor. And you can enjoy a light steam in your own cozy bath.

Sheathing with a pair of clapboard - how to do it right

The quality of the healing procedures of the bath largely depends on the level of thermal insulation of the steam room. By warming the steam room, they achieve a reduction in heat loss, the safety of the wooden structures of the bath. An important element of the thermal insulation system is lining with a pair of clapboards. To finish the steam room from the inside, it is necessary to use only natural materials. The use of lining allows not only to effectively prevent heat loss, but also much cheaper than lining with natural wood.

The advantages of using lining in the bath

Sheathing with clapboard in the steam room involves the use of wood, and the small thickness of the panels reduces the cost of building a steam room.

The advantages of using lining are:

1. Adjustment of humidity in the bath, preventing the possibility of condensation and fungal infection;
2. Ease of processing, obtaining a perfectly flat surface;
3. Good heat and sound insulation;
4. Eco-friendly material and beautiful appearance;
5. Long service life with preservation of original characteristics.

The most optimal solution would be to use not just lining, but eurolining. Its difference is an increase in the tongue-and-groove connection to 8 mm, and a material that has undergone preliminary forced drying. Having compensation slots on the reverse side of the lamella, the eurolining does not crack. In addition, it participates in the process of ventilation of the coating. See also: "How to sheathe a steam room in a bath - how to choose the right wood."

Types of wood for finishing

The best tree species for a bath are:

1. Linden, which retains heat well, releasing twice as much essential oils than other trees. Possessing hypoallergenic properties, it is ideal for the human body;
2. Aspen ordinary - in its medicinal properties does not differ from linden;
3. Cedar has a pleasant smell when heated, durable, has healing properties;
4. Pine- durable, easily tolerates dampness and is much cheaper than other tree species. The disadvantage is that the resin is released when heated and the color changes over time.

Much less often, oak or ash lining is used. Despite the very high quality indicators, their price is so high that it is not available to most consumers. It is possible to reduce the price of lining a steam room in a bath by using lining made of different types of wood, based on the location.

For example, in places of contact between the body and wood, use lining made of solid hardwood (larch, aspen, linden, ash, oak). In other places, coniferous wood is quite suitable.

Lining mounting options

Getting to the finishing work of the steam room, the main question will be how to position the lining in the bath - vertically or horizontally. To select the location of the skin elements in a horizontal or vertical plane it is necessary to take into account not only aesthetics, but also the laws of physics, under which cold air accumulates below, and hot - rises up to the ceiling.

The vertical arrangement visually increases the height of the room, making it visually more spacious. However, at the same time, temperature differences are observed within the same board due to the difference in temperatures from above and below. As a result, deformation changes may occur in the form of warpage, propeller and other surface defects of the board. In addition, the process of decay may begin in the lower part of the profiled board.

Important advantages of the horizontal arrangement of the lining when lining the steam room are:

1. Uniform heating of the board along its entire length;
2. The same moisture content of the elements over the entire area, which prevents the development of the process of decay;
3. Simplify the repair process if you need to replace the board.

Essential is the fact that water that has fallen on the wall does not leak into the gaps of the elements during horizontal installation, which is possible with vertical sheathing. The disadvantage of the horizontal laying method is the deterioration natural ventilation requiring room equipment forced system ventilation.

The specific choice in favor of the location of the lining in the steam room vertically or horizontally depends on the preferences of the consumer and has its own characteristics in the work.

Installing lining in the bath

Before sheathing the steam room, the lining is fixed. To do this, the beam is attached to the wall with galvanized screws. Then, having determined a straight vertical line with a building level, a crate beam is installed on it. The first rail is installed from the corner, and the subsequent rails - in steps of 50-60 cm, moving to the next corner. A layer of waterproofing is laid under the slats and, if desired, the slats are treated with a protective non-combustible agent.

The next will be a layer of non-combustible insulation (mineral or basalt wool), which has excellent water and steam impermeable properties. The main thing at the same time is to ensure a snug fit of the insulation. If necessary, carry out additional sealing with mounting foam or self-adhesive tape.

A vapor barrier layer of foil or ordinary film is laid on mineral wool, which is fixed with staples from an industrial stapler. At the final stage, the lining is laid in a vertical or horizontal way.

It is very important to insert the planks as evenly as possible, since at the slightest violation, depressions or bulges will appear on the wall from the lining. If pine lining is used, then pre-treatment is necessary to remove resin and grease stains. To this end wooden slats lubricate with a 25% acetone solution.

Installing the crate, and laying the insulation, while marking the place where there will be ventilation holes. The most effective ventilation will be when placed next to the stove one hole under the ceiling, and the second - at a height of 15-30 cm from the floor. For the air duct, a 100 mm aluminum corrugation is used.

The decoration of the steam room begins from the ceiling, and the first board is attached at the entrance (for more details: "How to make the decoration of the bath with clapboard correctly - the recommendations of the master"). For installation, clamps are used and only for the last board a finishing nail is used. They fasten the lining exclusively by a hidden method.

This choice is dictated by the following circumstances:

1. By heating, through a twisted hardware, which can burn the skin;
2. The possibility of rust on the hardware when exposed to wet steam;
3. Not aesthetics appearance with an open mount.

Fasten the wooden lining with the help of clamps or self-tapping screws. Kleimer, as the mounting bracket is called, is made of galvanized iron and screwed to the crate with self-tapping screws. The advantage of kleimers is the absence of damage to the lining sheets during installation. The height of the kleimers depends on the type of materials and for euro lining it is 4 mm, and for wooden lining the height is up to 5 mm.

How to lay the lining in the bath depends on the installation method. With a vertical arrangement, laying begins from the corner with the fastening of the end board in a special bracket - kleimer. Work begins from the left corner, placing a board less than 5-10 mm long less than it should be, with a ridge to the corner.

Then the boards are nailed to the laths of the crate in the middle. The next board covers the already nailed board with a comb, and is also attached to the lath of the crate. When using finishing nails, they are nailed strictly at an angle. All subsequent boards are attached in the same way. At the same time, the correct location of the boards is constantly checked by the level. Before nailing the last board, measure the width and cut it if necessary.

When mounting horizontally, boards can be nailed starting from the top or bottom. Laying horizontally begins from the ceiling by fastening the first rail to the crate downwards with a groove. Then the boards are located as close as possible to each other according to the type of constructor with the tongue of the top board entering the groove of the bottom panel.

Bottom-to-top installation is easier, but having to cut the top board to the width gives the wall an untidy look. And when moving from top to bottom, the resulting gap after cutting to the desired width of the last board can be masked with a beautiful plinth.

After completion of all work with the help of special corners, cords, the final decoration of the surface is carried out. The slopes of the doorways are finished with clapboard cut to the desired size, and framed with platbands. For additional protection against moisture, the mounted lining is finished with a special composition based on wax or water base.

How to sheathe a bath with clapboard inside: stages and sheathing technology

It is not recommended to use non-natural materials for the interior decoration of the bath. High temperature and constant humidity make it necessary to use only stress-resistant types of sheathing for decoration. One of the classics is lining. You can find out how to sheathe a bath with clapboard inside by reading the article to the end. We will help the reader not only complete the interior decoration, but also show how to choose the material.

Steam room trimmed with linden clapboard, covered with heat-resistant oil

Which lining is best for a bath

Linden lining should lie down unpacked before finishing

Lining for the interior decoration of the bath is chosen depending on the purpose of a particular room, the degree of humidity in it, the temperatures used, etc. All material is divided according to several criteria: size, what it is made of, type of wood.

You can subdivide the material by size :

1. classical. It has a narrow size, it is better to mount it vertically, since the horizontal arrangement visually lowers the ceiling, which is already low in the bath. In addition, the horizontal fastening prevents water from flowing down freely, and it accumulates in the connecting locks.
2. Eurolining. These are wider and heavier panels, more interesting in the design of the room and have the same quality characteristics as thin lining. On the back side of the lining there is a special cut, which relieves stress in the product and over time the finish will not crack.

According to its composition, the material is divided into: vinyl, plastic, wood and metal. For a bath, the best option is made of wood, the rest for facade decoration.

Types of wood for the manufacture of finishes for the bath

The steam room trimmed with aspen clapboard looks attractive

It is important what type of wood the product is made of. For a bath, wood trim with the lowest thermal conductivity is used: linden, aspen, abachi, cedar, alder. Moreover, you can not take any cedar, but only the northern one. It has less resin and when heated, the walls and ceiling will not start to cry. Larch species have a lower density of wood and with tactile contact in the bath, the lining will be more pleasant, even at high temperatures in the steam room. Such lining is more expensive, but the costs will be justified. Each of the types under consideration is better suited for different bath rooms.

Aspen: has a beautiful reddish tint and increased moisture resistance. In terms of durability, aspen can only be compared with larch. Upon contact with water, aspen wood does not collapse, but rather hardens. It is better to use for finishing the rest room, washing department. The only negative is the high price, because of which it is not recommended to use it in the steam room and dressing room.

The original version of the steam room trimmed with lime lining

Linden: Lining has become traditional for finishing the bath from the inside. Linden does not heat up at high temperatures and has a pleasant whitish color. But linden has a serious drawback - if not treated with antiseptics and protective compounds, it quickly begins to darken and rot.

Cedar lining in combination with linden looks great

Cedar: This conifer tree, but its structure is of reduced density, so it is often used for a bath. Cedar has excellent antiseptic properties and, when heated, gives off a pleasant smell. But it is not recommended to use it in a steam room, since there is still some percentage of resin in it.

Alder lining in the interior of the bath looks original and modern

Alder: has a pleasant pinkish hue with a pleasant velvety texture. Holds temperature well and is not afraid of moisture. The baths can be used in any part.

When choosing lining for finishing a bath, it is better to take Extra or AB grade chamber drying. Since changes in temperature and humidity in the baths occur constantly, it is impossible to use material with inaccurate or curved shapes. And in the higher grades this is unacceptable.

A step-by-step description of the installation of lining inside the baths

Aspen lining is sewn onto the ceiling

Before finishing, you need to decide whether only the walls or the ceiling will be poured. To do this, you can see the photo finished works and choose the design you like.

It is necessary to sheathe the bath inside starting from the ceiling. Only after this wall. But first the walls need to be waterproofed and insulated.

Bath wall and ceiling insulation

Scheme simple option clapboard lining of the steam room of the bath

It is not necessary to insulate all the walls of the bath, especially if it is a small summer log house 3x3 m in size. In such, only the steam room is insulated. In other cases, the entire Russian bath from the inside, including the dressing room and the relaxation room.

As a heater, you need to choose flame retardant material such as bosalt wool. It is better not to consider all materials like polystyrene. The insulation is attached to a pre-prepared crate od which is attached to the vapor barrier. Because of big difference temperatures, condensation can accumulate on the walls, the vapor barrier will protect the insulation.

Glassine should be fixed on top of this structure. It will play the role of waterproofing. All seams are glued with a special water-repellent glue. Then everything is covered with foil, it will reflect heat and prevent steam from escaping. You need to fasten the foil between the crate using a construction stapler or buttons with an overlap of 10-15 cm.

Material handling

The walls of the bath begin to be sheathed from the opposite corner from the entrance

Before fastening, the lining must be unpacked and kept in baths for 1-2 days. The fact is that manufacturers, in order to protect the material after chamber drying, pack it in an airtight film. And getting into the natural environment, the tree absorbs moisture from the air and swells a little.

After that, you need to choose how to process the material. It is better to take the composition intended directly for baths. These contain antipyrines and moisture-resistant components.

Mounting on the walls and ceiling of the bath

Fastening the lining begins with the ceiling finish. The first bar should be fixed opposite the door. There are two ways to fix the links in the baths:

1. Small carnations to the main crate into the groove at an angle of 45 0. Such an attachment will be invisible and the ceiling will look like a single system. It is not necessary to drive the lining tightly to each other when wet, it will swell and warp the entire structure or it will simply move away from the wall in separate links. By leaving a gap, the lining gets space for natural movement.
2. Small carnations through the lining to the crate. This method is more suitable for eurolining. Beforehand, small recesses are drilled in each attached link, and then a nail is driven into them. These places are closed with corks made of wood and PVA glue.

Since the lining is thin, it is inconvenient to hammer in the whole nail with a hammer. To simplify, use a tool - doboynik

To the wall, the links must begin to be fastened from the most prominent corner to the door. Mount it in exactly the same way as on the ceiling.

A ventilated gap of 4-5 cm should remain between the lining and the walls. A gap of 3-4 cm is also left between the walls and the ceiling. In order for the air to pass well under the lining, planks are attached to the main crate. Finishing material will be attached to this second crate. Lathing step 40-50 cm. The direction is perpendicular to the fastening of the sheathing.

After fastening, the bath is thoroughly warmed up and see what happens after cooling. Incorrectly fixed links are additionally strengthened with carnations.

Subtleties of finishing inside the bath

1. It is not necessary to mount the lining horizontally in the washing and steam rooms. Water splashes will fall into the castle, and the lining will quickly darken. But if the design requires a horizontal mount, then the spike should look up.
2. All fasteners must be taken with a zinc coating, since iron will quickly rust with moisture.
3. All mounting corners and slats at the top need to be slightly sharpened at the bottom, so water droplets will go down faster.
4. The slats are fixed 4-5 cm from the base, so as not to block the ventilated gap.
5. Consider a ventilation system in the bathhouse, so the moisture will quickly evaporate and the lining will last longer.
6. If the lining turns black, it must be immediately treated with bleaching compounds, for example, Senezh Sauna

We examined how to do the interior decoration of the bath with a clapboard with our own hands. Observing all the technique and watching the thematic video in this article, even a beginner will be able to handle the work with his own hands.

Bath is an amazing place for relaxation and recuperation. Therefore, it should be not only hot, but also comfortable. Each owner strives to give his bathhouse an attractive appearance both outside and inside. In this article, we bring to your attention a few tips on how to equip, the interior decoration of which is no less important than the construction itself.

So, if you are planning to do the interior decoration of the bath yourself, then this article will come in handy for you. Here you will also find professional instructions for different types finishes, and step-by-step photos of important finishing works, And detailed videos that will help you solve your tasks at the highest level. Our advice will help you stick to the principles construction technologies when performing cladding, sheathing, etc.

Finishing inside the bath - milestone construction. Its quality and level of performance determine not only the aesthetic characteristics of the bath, but also the atmosphere of coziness and comfort, the degree of convenience. In addition, the materials used for finishing directly affect the creation of a special microclimate in the bath and its medicinal properties. The main task of finishing is to make your stay in the bathhouse as pleasant, comfortable and useful as possible.

A modern Russian bath involves the presence of several rooms:

• vestibule;
• steam room;
• washing.

If you have built a large bath, then it is quite possible to equip it extra room recreation, billiard room, kitchen area, playground, swimming pool and much more. Theoretically, you can plan and build any bath, equipped with everything that you think is necessary and useful. However, this does not affect the basic defining requirements for the bath:

• all rooms should have an attractive and practical design;
• in the steam room there should be hot and pleasant steam;
• in the washing should be comfortable and safe.

Finishing has a big impact on the functionality of the bath. Even if you used high-quality material for construction, which does not require mandatory interior decoration, it still needs to be done in the bath. Properly selected materials will allow you to create optimal conditions for comfortable rest, as well as significantly extend the life of walls, floors, ceilings. Materials are selected in accordance with the purpose and characteristics of a particular room. How best to finish the steam room, washing, vestibule, read below.

When planning the finishing of a steam room, take into account the following features of this room:

• The constant presence of heated steam coming in a concentrated and dense stream;
• Temperature fluctuations, heating to high temperatures;
• High humidity level.

The conditions in the steam room are, one might say, extreme. Many materials are simply not designed for use in such an environment. However, the modern widest range of finishing materials makes it possible to choose the option that will best meet even such harsh conditions. We recommend paying attention to the sheathing board. Its characteristics must meet the following requirements:

• Low heat capacity, the ability to quickly warm up and not accumulate heat;
• moisture resistance;
• High aesthetic characteristics;
• Pleasant smell, no tar when heated;
• Resistance to fungus and mold;
• Air purification.

Today, there are several classes of lining:

• C-class. Differs in low cost. But for finishing the bath, its characteristics are not high enough.
• B-class. Such material may have contrasting spots, cracks, minor damage, resin pockets. This class includes material on which, for every 1.5 m of length, there are no more than four knots;
• A-class. May have shallow cracks. There should be no cores in the cut. No more than one knot per 1.5 m of length is allowed on each panel.
• Premium class. The highest quality and corresponding cost. The color is uniform, cores and knots are absent.

The most common profiles are eurolining, thorn-groove, Softline, Calm.

Linden lining shows excellent results as an interior finish for a bath. Its density is quite low, due to which it does not heat up very much in the steam room. However, it does not emit tar. Linden panels provide excellent sound insulation.

And also lining from other types of wood is suitable for solving this problem. For example, cedar and aspen have proven themselves well.

When choosing one or another material for sheathing, carefully inspect the panels. The wood must be dry, well-treated, and free of nicks, knots, and other obvious defects. A high-quality material must meet these requirements, and only it will provide an aesthetic, reliable, durable finish.

Additional processing by special means does not require the material for sheathing the steam room. Do not use antifungal, antiseptic compounds or paints and varnishes. All these products are harmful to humans, and when heated, they will begin to actively release their wood, making bath procedures more dangerous than useful.

Before proceeding with lining the clapboard, the steam room must be insulated. An affordable and time-tested material that is suitable for this purpose is mineral wool. It is the most sought after in this area. Another option, no less effective, is basalt wool. It successfully copes with the effects of high temperatures, so it will last a little longer than mineral wool. But if we talk about the ideal insulation for a steam room, then one cannot but recall the cork agglomerate. Among its advantages are hypoallergenicity, resistance to fungi and rot, fire resistance.

The floor in the steam room should be pleasant to the touch, non-slip, not cold and not too hot.

The washing room is designed not only to take a shower and wash yourself properly at a comfortable temperature. The washroom should have a place to relax, so you can leave the steam room for a while, pamper yourself with massages, face and body masks and other relaxing and enjoyable treatments. It is necessary to think over all these possibilities before starting finishing work, and even better - at the construction stage.

In any case, the choice of finishing materials should be carried out taking into account all these functions of the washing room. The best option is wood or ceramic tiles. If for a steam room you can choose among hardwoods, then only conifers are suitable for a washing room - pine, spruce, larch. It is very easy to explain this choice. Softwood is resinous and highly water-repellent. Therefore, under washing conditions, it will perform better than hardwood, and will last for many years, while maintaining a pleasant appearance.

Particular attention should be paid to the selection of material for finishing floors in the washing room. The main qualities of the finished floor in this room are a comfortable temperature and anti-slip properties. To achieve this result, the base for the floor is made of concrete, and ceramic tiles are laid out on it. In order to prevent strong slipping, wooden pallets or removable logs are placed on the ceramic floor. After each visit to the bath, they are taken out into the air to dry. However, the floor in the washroom can be completely wooden, but ceramic tile as the main finish is a more practical and durable option. She copes well with an abundance of water, various cosmetics, shampoo, etc.

A high level of humidity is maintained in all areas of the bath. This the most important aspect which must be taken into account when choosing Decoration Materials. For the vestibule and other rooms, you can use any type of wood. But don't limit yourself to wood. Other materials are also suitable for high-quality and stylish finishing of the vestibule, rest room and other bath rooms:

• Porcelain stoneware;
• Plaster;
• Natural stone;
• fiberglass wallpaper;
• Majolica.

Various combinations of these materials open up wide possibilities for aesthetic and practical decoration of the baths. For example, a combination of natural stone and wood looks very solid and beautiful. Do-it-yourself bath will allow you to translate non-standard creative ideas into reality. The interior decoration, the photo of which is presented on this page, will help you choose optimal materials and their combinations.

The ceiling of the bath must withstand high temperature loads, as well as cope with the flow of hot wet steam. Do not forget about the need to protect the floors from heat and steam with the help of heat and vapor barrier materials. For this purpose, you can purchase building membranes or aluminum foil. If you put them hermetically, then their effectiveness will be equally high. It is not recommended to perform vapor barrier with foil with a layer of cotton wool, because this material has a thinner thickness, so it is much more difficult to work with it during the sheathing process. The same applies to foil with a layer of polypropylene foam. This material, when exposed to high temperatures, releases substances toxic to humans, therefore it is unsuitable for use in bath rooms.

Each joint of the vapor barrier and thermal insulation is glued with aluminum tape to ensure complete tightness. Sometimes, when performing work, the material is pierced, torn, etc. If this happens, then the hole formed in the material must be immediately sealed with aluminum tape, because later you may simply not remember about it or not find the damaged place. As a result, the vapor barrier will be leaky and of poor quality.

The steam room requires a pipe hole. It is equipped with a box with a stainless steel frame filled with expanded clay.

Cutting the ceiling for a pipe hole must be carried out taking into account maintaining a sufficient distance from the wooden floor to the outer contour of the pipe, as well as taking into account the characteristics of the chimney used.

To make a pipe hole you will need:

• 2mm stainless steel sheet
• galvanized box;
• Clamp clamp.

Cutting the ceiling is carried out mainly in order to ensure the fire safety of the ceiling slabs. In addition, in this way, the elements of the chimney receive additional support and are securely fixed in place. Cutting allows you to design the outlet of the pipe.

The box 400x400 mm is installed from the side of the attic. A sheet of stainless steel 500x500 mm is attached to it from below, from the side of the steam room. Near the steel lining, the pipe is fitted with a clamp, preventing the pipe from coming into contact with the furnace. This significantly extends the life of the furnace, since the entire load from the pipe falls on the upper steel circuit.

After the box and the steel sheet have found their places, the inside of the box is insulated and covered with expanded clay. This will prevent heat loss through the duct contour.

The steel sheet on the ceiling provides additional protection against high temperatures.

We bring to your attention an instruction that will help you complete the lining of the ceiling in the bath with clapboard quickly, economically and efficiently:

• The ceiling is sheathed with slats 2x4 cm. They are fastened with a distance of 40-45 cm. In those places where the frame is attached, ventilation gaps of 10 mm must be left.
• Horizontal slats are placed on the walls perpendicular to the lining;
• Fastening panels begins with one of the walls. The first bar is exposed with the groove out. The spike of another panel is hammered into it. The order of connection of the spike and groove can be changed, it is not fundamental.

When sheathing, use rubber pads and a mallet to handle the material gently and gently without damaging it.

• Fasten the planks using special clamps. Kleimers are attached to the rail with a screw or nails. Can also be applied construction stapler, it will be even more convenient. With the help of a stapler, the fastening is reliable, and the time to complete the work is significantly reduced.
• There should be gaps between the sheathing and the wall, up to 2.5 cm in size. They are necessary for additional ventilation and to prevent deformation of the finish. To mask the gaps enough to nail ceiling plinth. The first panel and the last are attached with inconspicuous nails. It is necessary to hammer in such nails at an angle, and drive the hat tightly into the wood.

Do not forget that the sheathing should be carried out along strictly vertical lines. A level check is required after each panel installed. If there is no level at hand, then you can simply measure the distance between the wall and the edge of the sheathing. It should be equal along the entire length of the bar.

If the values ​​obtained as a result of the measurements diverge, then the lining must be knocked out so that the measurements converge. Otherwise, the skin will turn out uneven and sloppy. Stuffing is done with a piece of panel, which is driven into the groove with a mallet or hammer to fit the size.

You can achieve perfect evenness in another way. The wooden lining is fixed and sharp wood chips are hammered under it.

The only material suitable for wall cladding in a steam room is wood. It is also suitable for other bath rooms, but other materials can also be used in them - stone, tile, etc. In the vestibule and the relaxation room, you can create original ensembles by combining various materials.

Clapboard wall cladding

According to the main parameters, wall cladding with clapboard is performed in the same way as ceiling decoration.

• The first stage is to fill a thick beam around the perimeter in a horizontal direction. Step - 80-100 cm.
• In the recesses between the bars you need to put a heater. For example, mineral wool. It is cut with a sharp knife into appropriate pieces. It is not necessary to tamp the heater.

Note! All work with mineral wool should be carried out with gloves, a respirator and goggles.

• Then a vapor barrier is laid, each joint is glued with aluminum tape.

Pay special attention to insulation in corner joints.

• Don't forget to leave gaps for ventilation. To do this, you can fill the remote rail. The crate is created at right angles to the lining. Therefore, if you want to sheathe the walls, placing the lining vertically, then the crate must be nailed horizontally.

First of all, rails for the frame are installed in the corners of the walls in a vertical position. Care must be taken to ensure that their position remains strictly vertical. In order to facilitate the alignment of the horizontal slats, string can be pulled between the vertical slats at the ceiling and floor.

• With separate bars, you need to separate the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe door and the window;
• Now you can go directly to the paneling.

It is recommended to fasten the lining for baths from one corner in the vertical direction. Due to this, it will be easier for water to drain from the walls, without lingering in the grooves of the panels. If you like a horizontal pattern, then the panel spike should be directed upwards so that moisture does not collect or linger in the grooves. In this case, you need to start work by fixing the boards to the ceiling. The crate in this situation is performed in the vertical direction.

The lining is directly fastened with kleimers, nails, self-tapping screws or a construction stapler. If you are using self-tapping screws or nails, then insert them at an angle, driving the caps deep into the wood. Ventilation gaps of about 2 cm should remain between the ceiling and the sheathing, the floor and the sheathing.

A common problem that people face when doing self-cladding of the walls of the bath with clapboard is the need to cut the material. It's easy to do. You can cut the lining with a fine-toothed saw or a jigsaw.

Last panel cut to the wall right size and attached to the crate. The next wall starts with a panel where the comb is cut off. It should fit snugly against the last rail of the previous wall. In the corners, the elements must be adjusted especially precisely. Determine the exact angle values ​​before sawing the batten or panel. Draw a line with a pencil on the material to avoid mistakes. There should be no seams at the corners of the panels.

The most important moment when performing finishing work inside the bath is the insulation of the furnace. The following materials are suitable for solving this issue:

• Stainless steel sheets of appropriate size;
• Minerite is a special material with high heat-resistant characteristics. It is a mixture of cement, reinforcing fiber and mineral fillers. With a close location of the stove near the wall, the mineralite must be put in two layers. If at least 40 cm remains between the oven and the wall, then one layer will be enough.
• Ceramic heat-resistant tiles;
• Solid red brick. They need to lay out the walls from the floor to the base of the pipe or higher;
• Profile iron is the cheapest option.

Ceramic tile - best option for finishing all rooms of the bath, except for the steam room. Considering the modern variety of models and collections, it will not be difficult to make the design of a rest room or washing room not only practical, comfortable and durable, but also aesthetic. The most important argument in favor of tiling is its excellent moisture resistance.

Laying tiles is carried out step by step. The first step is preparation. The second is the direct execution of work.

Preparatory stage

The preparation of concrete or cinder block walls consists in removing dust, dirt, plastering and leveling. Preparation wooden walls is to perform waterproofing. With a construction stapler, roofing felt, roofing felt is nailed onto wooden panels. A chain-link mesh is sewn on top of the waterproofing, on which it is densely placed concrete mortar.

Then, in both cases, it is necessary to nail an even beam. It will become the basis of a fine finish. Instead of a bar, a metal profile is also suitable. Do not forget to check the horizontal and vertical rows during the laying process. For horizontal use building level. For vertical, you can use a plumb line.

Instructions for laying tiles in the bath

You can prepare a tile fixing solution yourself. To do this, you need to mix cement and sand in a ratio of 1:5. But you can also buy a ready mix. It is recommended to give preference to a special adhesive designed for laying tiles in rooms. high humidity and with temperature fluctuations. Tiles must be immersed in water before laying to remove air. Thanks to this, the tile will adhere much better to the mortar.

Start of work - from the attached level. The first row must be laid out especially diligently, because it is he who determines the evenness of all subsequent rows and the accuracy of the entire lining.

Glue is placed on the reverse side of the tile. Use a notched trowel for this. Glue can also be applied to the wall. Then the tile is carefully applied to the wall and pressed down so that the adhesive protrudes slightly beyond its edges. You can adjust the position of the tile with a rubber mallet.

It is important to maintain an equal distance between the tiles. Therefore, after you lay adjacent rows, fix special plastic crosses in the corners of the tiles. This will keep the same gap both in length and in height.

It will take a couple of days for the tiles to dry. After that, you can remove the level and wipe the seams. The color of the grout should be in harmony with the color of the tile.

Finishing stage- this is the removal of grout residues, cleaning the tiles and giving it a final aesthetic appearance.

With the help of ceramic tiles, you can realize the most daring creative fantasies. You can lay it evenly, diagonally, offset, patterned. The easiest and fastest way is to lay the tiles in even rows.

If you decide to tile a complex pattern or pattern, it is best to transfer it to the floor or wall so that you can immediately see where which tile should be located. This will allow you to accurately complete the cladding and give your bath a truly original and unique look.

Unusual and very stylish solution for a bath - this is a finish with terracotta slabs. They are ideal for this type of room, as they are resistant to both temperature and moisture. At the same time, they allow you to create an original and interesting design, eco-friendly, practical and stylish. The laying of this material has its own characteristics, primarily due to its significant weight. This tile requires a special adhesive. Mastic will work too.

The installation process consists of the following steps:

• Mastic is densely distributed on the stove. This material will require much more adhesive than conventional ceramic tiles;
• We apply the plate to the wall, press down and align;
• We continue to work in the same order with the rest of the plates;
• To align the joints between the tiles, pieces of drywall can be inserted into the seams;
• Do not forget to regularly check the parallelism and evenness of the rows with a level;
• 10 hours after the installation is completed, you can start processing the seams. It is performed with a heat-resistant grout for wide joints. The composition is diluted with water to the density of sour cream.
• Then pieces of drywall are removed from the seams;
• The grout is applied with a construction gun. The spout must be cut at an angle of 60º so that the width of the hole is 8-10 mm;
• The seams are carefully filled with grout. It should not fall on the plates themselves or other surfaces.

Handling a pistol requires experience. So be very careful with it. If the grout still gets on the tile, then do not try to remove it immediately. You will only spread the composition over a larger area. It is better to wait a little while the grout dries. So, you can gently scrape it off.

• The direction of applying the grout can be any;
• Two hours later, you can move on to the stitching, which will provide a finished look to this finish.
• Jointing is done with a 7-8 mm screwdriver or a wire ring;
• After that, you need to walk along the seams with a finger in a clean glove.

The wooden floor in the bath does not need additional finishing. A concrete floor involves laying ceramic tiles with a non-slip coating.

Laying starts from one of the corners. In this case, the ideal evenness of the rows is not required, because the floor in the bath is made with a slope towards the drain. But the approximate location of the tiles is still worth noting on the floor by level before you start laying them.

The work is carried out in the following order:

• The solution is distributed on the floor with a spatula in accordance with the size of the tile;
• The teeth of the spatula imprint a pattern on the mortar, which ensures its reliable connection with the tile;
• Tiles are laid out. In the process of work, its position is adjusted with a rubber hammer. Don't forget about slope formation! Tiles for the first row must be dry. And it is desirable to pre-soak all other elements in water.
• Corner elements are cut to the required size using a tile cutter;

High-quality finishing of a steam bath is not only beautiful view and a pleasant aroma from fresh wood, but also the durability of the structure itself. After all, in a real Russian bath, as they say, the steam is such that “it’s just right to hang an ax”, and the air temperature can reach up to 120 ° C. And just the finishing of the steam room protects its walls from such an aggressive influence, on the one hand, a person from burns or allergies, on the other.

Finishing the walls and ceiling - what you need to know?

The main thing to remember is one thing: wood stains or varnishes cannot be used in a steam room - at high temperatures they will negatively affect human health.

Quality wood = quality finish

How high-quality the interior finish of the steam room will turn out directly depends on the quality of the lining wood itself - it is important that it is well dried, hewn, and does not have any notches or knots on the surface.

We can say that hardwood lining is universal for a sauna steam room. It is characterized by a rather low heat capacity, due to which the room warms up quickly, but at the same time, the walls do not heat up much, and therefore a person does not experience discomfort from contact with them.

And each of these breeds has its own special features. So, birch, as it were, charges the human body with positive energy, and aspen, as it were, draws out negative energy (and with it, diseases). That is why they are so often combined in the steam room.

Birch - if there are alternatives, pass by

The birch has a loose structure, and therefore, when it is harvested for construction, it dries out a lot. Due to this, it is easily processed with protective substances.

Larch - finishing for centuries

Larch in the steam room will be the most durable - it perfectly tolerates the extreme temperature changes and high humidity familiar to the bath.

Linden - good, but requires processing

Linden wood attracts many with its beautiful white color. But in addition, it is moisture resistant and resistant to deformation, which is also no less important. Yes, and it heats up from all other breeds for the longest time, and therefore it can sheathe both the ceiling and the wall near the stove - this is safe. In addition, linden in the heat begins to emit an excellent aroma - unobtrusive and pleasant. But linden must be pre-treated with special substances - so that it does not darken.

Another interesting thing is that linden belongs to the so-called honey plants, which is why its wood “breathes”, perfectly absorbs water and provides complete sound insulation. At the same time, in a moisture-saturated environment, it does not change its smell, color, or medicinal properties.

Aspen is the best option

Also, aspen is considered almost ideal for finishing the ceiling of the steam room. It is so strong that it has long been used in the construction of wells, cellars, baths and even temples. If this tree is harvested and dried correctly, unexpected qualities are revealed in it - incredible strength that even hammering a nail is unrealistic, absolute resistance to moisture and the complete absence of cracks. That is why floors in the bath are often made from it.

Aspen is practically not subject to decay, and, on the contrary, it also kills all mold and fermentation fungi - it was once put in cabbage so that it would not peroxide. As for the impact on human health, here, aspen has its own advantages: it relieves headaches and discomfort in the joints.

Floor in the steam room: tile or wood?

As for finishing the floor, the temperature at its level rarely rises above 30˚С, and therefore such floors can even be earthen, clay and concrete. All they need is a good and fast outflow of water from the bath. But in order for a steamed person not to get the so-called “heatstroke” when touching the floor, he still needs to be covered with a fibrous mat, plank flooring or a safe cork flooring.

Both tiles and polished boards are suitable for finishing the floor in the steam room. Of course, tiles are not afraid of constant moisture like wood.

The finishing technology itself is simple: the boards are placed on the logs as tightly as possible to each other and fastened with self-tapping screws. For tiles on the floor, a screed is initially made, and the surface is well leveled. The tile itself must be laid on a special adhesive mixture, treating all seams with a special moisture-resistant grout, which will not allow moisture to get under the cladding and form mold there. But on such a finish it will be necessary to put a wooden shield - so that people resting in the bath do not slip.

The conclusion is: the tiled floor is good easy care behind him, and wooden - the creation of general comfort.

What can not be done with a wig?

No matter how competently the finishing of the steam room is done by one’s own hands, such materials cannot be used for it: linoleum, plastic, pine boards and wood boards. All of them are not suitable for high temperatures: plastic and linoleum immediately release toxic substances into the air, and pine - resin. Yes, and chipboard and fiberboard boards cannot be used for finishing the steam room - because of their easy flammability and high hygroscopicity.

A good bath finish is not only a pleasing design, but also a multiple increase in its healing properties for a person!