Insulation of balconies and loggias - materials, technologies and tips. From a cold warehouse to an additional room: how to insulate a balcony How to insulate a balcony from the inside

How is a balcony different from a loggia?

First, let's make these concepts clear. Both are glazed, so most people call the resulting space a balcony, although this is incorrect. And some mistakenly believe that if you install windows on the balcony, it automatically turns into a loggia.

The key difference between the two structures is that the balcony has no walls and protrudes beyond the facade, while the loggia has side walls and, on the contrary, is recessed deep into the building. In other words, the outside air acts on the balcony from three sides, and on the loggia - from only one or two, if the apartment is corner.

What result to expect

You can insulate both, but the final effect will vary greatly. A well-insulated loggia is no different from a room. In the presence of a heat source, it becomes a full-fledged living space for year-round use.

Due to the lack of main walls, the thermal resistance of an insulated balcony is much worse - it is comfortable to stay there until late autumn. A sufficient level could be achieved with an additional layer of thermal insulation, but this is not rational due to the small area of ​​the room. After warming, there will be almost no free space left.

What about glazing

Since 25% of heat loss falls on, it makes sense to take on the insulation of a loggia or balcony only if there are energy-saving windows. If installed wooden frames with one glass, you first have to replace them with modern ones.

Double-glazed windows with higher thermal resistance weigh a lot, and they can only be installed on loggias. Balcony ceilings have a weak bearing capacity, and it is most likely that it will not work to mount such windows there.

2. Consider the design

Before starting work, you need to decide on the type of insulation, choose the option for finishing the walls and finish the floor covering, and also decide how the room will be heated. All this will determine the design and algorithm for its installation.

Since the balcony or loggia is insulated from the inside, it is important to use a vapor-tight material to avoid condensation and the appearance.

instrumentgid.ru

Extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) is best suited for this. When installed with sealed joints, it allows you to make a thermos out of the room, which will retain heat well by cutting off the outside cold. At the same time, with EPPS, you can achieve sufficient thermal insulation by taking a minimum of precious space from the room.

Some consider Styrofoam to be toxic. This is not entirely true. The material is really combustible and emits harmful substances when heated above 60 ° C, but this does not make it dangerous, since XPS is always covered with a finish.

wall decoration

After good insulation on the loggia or balcony, you can apply any type of finish. Depending on the selected coating, the technology of thermal insulation work is slightly different.

• Wooden lining, PVC or MDF panels - for fastening to the wall, you will need to first make a crate.
• Decorative plaster or putty with subsequent painting - this type of finish can be applied directly to the insulation.
• - the easiest way to glue on drywall, fixed on a wooden crate.

Flooring

The floor of the insulated loggia is no different from the floor of the room, so all existing finishes can be used there. However, for each type you will need one or another version of the subfloor.

• Laminate, linoleum, carpet are laid on sheets of plywood, chipboard (chipboard), CSP (cement-bonded particle board) or OSB (oriented strand board) fixed on top of wooden logs.
• and porcelain tiles are laid on a concrete screed.

Balcony floor slabs have a low bearing capacity, so only floors on wooden logs are allowed on them. For more solid foundations loggia in addition to this, you can also fill the screed for laying tiles.

In both cases, if desired, an electric floor heating system can be equipped. The only difference is that a film infrared floor is used for the structure on the logs, and a heating cable or heating mats are used for the screeds.

Heating

It is important to understand that the insulation of a balcony or loggia will only prevent the walls from freezing and slightly increase the temperature compared to the street. To maintain a comfortable microclimate in winter, one cannot do without a heating source.

There are three main ways to heat a room:

• Electric is the most expensive and difficult to install option, but at the same time the most effective and convenient.
• Convector - installed at outer wall the heater should only be turned on on the coldest days or only when there are people in the room.
• Radiator central heating- according to the law, it is forbidden to transfer the device to the loggia or balcony, but if the partition is removed or the door is constantly open, the battery will cope with heating even from the room.

Take things out, remove shelves, hangers and other items. Clean the walls of old paint and plaster. If there are foci of fungus damage, remove it and carefully treat the places with a special antiseptic, and then dry all surfaces well.

To prevent blowing, seal all the cracks along the perimeter of the fence plate, as well as at the junction with the side walls, floor and ceiling. Remove old plaster from joints and fill them mounting foam.

The bottom line is to cut off any streams of cold air from the street and make the room as airtight as possible.

If you plan to use the insulated space as an office or a recreation area, you must install the electrical wiring in advance. To do this, install in the right places, lighting and switches.

YouTube channel "We build for ourselves"

It is better to conduct cables along the inner wall adjoining the room. It is not insulated, so it will be easy to hide all the wiring inside the frame or plaster layer. Sockets and can be connected from the nearest socket in the room. But to power the underfloor heating, it is advisable to run a separate cable from the switchboard.

Expanded polystyrene is sold in the form of plates measuring 60 × 120 cm and thicknesses from 20 to 150 mm. Sheets have an L-shaped lock along the contour, which simplifies installation and prevents joints from blowing through.

You can fix the EPS to the walls different ways. The most common is glue-foam in cylinders, which is applied around the perimeter of the sheet and in the middle. Another option is fixing in the corners and in the center on umbrella dowels with a plastic or metal core. Also, expanded polystyrene is fixed over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe sheet to adhesive mixtures for heaters.

To form a single contour of thermal insulation, it is necessary to seal all junctions. It is important to leave gaps of 10-15 mm near the walls in the corners, under the ceiling and near the floor, so that later they can be filled with mounting foam. It is recommended to coat the joints in the locks between the plates with glue-foam or seal with foil.

YouTube channel DendenTV

The required insulation thickness can be achieved either with one sheet or with a combination of two. At the same time, the second option is even more preferable, since the fragments of polystyrene foam are tightly adjacent to each other and form a single layer, and due to the displacement of the joints between the plates, maximum protection against blowing can be achieved.

After completion of the work, an inextricable structure should be obtained, where each sheet of XPS fits snugly against the neighboring one, and all joints between them in the corners, under the ceiling and near the floor are sealed with mounting foam.

The fencing slab borders the street and is exposed to cold air the most, so the maximum thickness of the thermal insulation here is 80 mm. It is better to use not one 80 mm sheet, but a “pie” of plates: 50 + 30 mm.

YouTube channel "We build for ourselves"

If dimensions allow, the wooden crate is mounted on top of the second layer of XPS, fixing the bars with anchors or dowels directly through the insulation. When the width of the window sill is limited, the crate is attached to 50 mm polystyrene foam, and the second layer of insulation is placed between the frame bars.

If selected as a finish, you can do without the construction of a frame. In this case, the mixture is applied directly to the XPS surface. For better adhesion, the sheets must be processed with a grater or scratched with an ordinary hacksaw.

YouTube channel "We build for ourselves"

For walls, a layer of 50 mm EPS is sufficient. The work is carried out according to the same principle. If necessary, the sheets are cut to the desired size with a sharp knife. To join the pieces with each other, an L‑shaped lock is formed at their ends with the same knife.

It is better to insulate in two layers (30 + 20 mm), and mount the frame on top of the XPS. But if the window is installed without extensions and the space is limited by the width of the frame, the second layer of expanded polystyrene can also be laid between the frame bars.

If you are going to plaster the walls in the future, then the crate is not needed. It is enough to fix the sheets and make their surface rough with a grater or hacksaw.

The ceiling borders the apartment, not the street. Therefore, the same layer of XPS is sufficient here, as on the walls - 50 mm. Laying is done according to a familiar principle. Fastening of your choice: glue-foam, dowel-umbrella, glue mixture. Expanded polystyrene is a very light material and is securely held on the ceiling exclusively with glue.

YouTube channel "We build for ourselves"

When installing, pay attention to the height of the windows. If the frame is installed right under the ceiling without additional profiles, then due to the thick layer of insulation, the window sashes may not open. Consider the thickness of the lathing and finishing so that after installation there is a gap of at least 5-7 mm to the sash.

For thermal insulation of the floor, an EPS with a minimum thickness of 50 mm is required, and preferably 80 mm in two layers. Extruded polystyrene foam has a high density and can withstand loads up to 30 tons per square meter, so it can serve as the base of the floor.

YouTube channel "XPS TechnoNIKOL"

After mounting on XPS, it is enough to lay plywood, chipboard, DSP or OSB - and you can lay a finishing floor covering like laminate or on top. When installing a film underfloor heating, you must first lay penofol or another heat-reflecting substrate.

Under the laying of tiles or porcelain stoneware, a reinforced cement screed is poured directly onto the EPS, into which, if desired, a cable underfloor heating or thermomats can be mounted. If the heating elements have a small thickness, they can easily be laid in a layer of glue when laying tiles.

The floor on the balcony or loggia is always lower than in the room, so many people prefer to bring them to the same level and remove the step. This is done using a log of a wooden beam 50 × 50 mm or 40 × 40 mm.

YouTube channel "We build for ourselves"

First, transverse logs are laid in increments of 40–60 cm and attached to the slab with anchors. Then the gaps between them are filled with insulation and foamed, and longitudinal logs are attached on top with a similar step and leveled. Next, a second layer of insulation is laid with foam filling and plywood or other sheet material.

10. Finish

At the very end, the ceiling and floor are trimmed. If plaster is selected, then a reinforcing mesh is glued onto the sanded XPS surface, and then two layers of plaster and paint are applied.

YouTube channel "Vladimir Odorov"

When lining with clapboard, plastic or MDF panels, molding materials are attached to a wooden frame on the walls and ceiling.

YouTube channel “Loggias. buy"

For wallpapering, it is easiest to sheathe the walls with moisture-resistant drywall. Use the crate as a frame, seal the joints between the sheets with putty and, after priming the surfaces, paste the wallpaper.

The final stage of finishing is the installation of the finishing floor. Linoleum is laid or spread on the previously prepared base. If a warm floor is planned, then it is installed first. Next, skirting boards are installed.

YouTube channel "We build for ourselves"

The exception is tiles. Due to the wet processes during laying, it is better to mount it at the stage of floor insulation and before starting work on the walls.

September 4, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction works (laying the foundation, erecting walls, constructing the roof, etc.). Internal construction works (laying of internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobbies: mobile communication, high technologies, computer equipment, programming.

I have already talked many times about the internal insulation of balconies in city apartments and private houses, but I did not dwell much on highlighting the question of how best to insulate the loggia from the inside. But the right choice of thermal insulation material is the key to the effectiveness of the events.

And now is the time to fill this gap. The instructions that I give below will tell you how to choose the right material for insulation yourself.

Requirements for heaters

Before telling you how to insulate the loggia inside with my own hands, I want to give a few words to the criteria by which I personally choose thermal insulation materials for such work.

So, what is worth paying attention to:

1. Heat transfer coefficient. The lower this parameter is, the better. That is, for the thermal insulation of the room (whether it be a separate loggia or combined with the main room), you will have to use a smaller layer of material. So, more usable area of ​​​​the room will be saved.
2. Ease of installation. The more complicated the procedure for installing the heat-insulating material you have chosen, the longer and more laborious the repair process will be, especially on your own. However, I have already written a lot about how to properly insulate the loggia from the inside. If you need, you can find the relevant material or ask a question in the comments.
3. Strength. It is better to choose a heater that tolerates external mechanical stress (both static and dynamic). In this case, the subsequent decorative finishing of the room is facilitated.
4. Antiseptic. Internal insulation shifts the dew point inside the heat-insulating cake. In addition, air vapors, which are formed as a result of human activity, can penetrate through the walls. Therefore, I recommend paying attention to materials that are not subject to biocorrosion - mold, fungus and other microorganisms, rodents and insects do not appear in them.
5. Affordable price. Naturally, this factor is also very important, although I would not put it at the forefront. Below I will tell you about insulating materials that have an optimal ratio of cost and performance. And then you yourself choose what material is better to perform insulation.

Characteristics of individual types of insulation

So, let's start the story. Let's start with the most common and very inexpensive heat insulator - polystyrene foam or, as it is popularly called, polystyrene.

Styrofoam

Expanded polystyrene is a material consisting of 98% air, which is enclosed in closed polystyrene shells. It turns out some kind of solid foam in sheets, which, after finishing the walls, floor and ceiling of the loggia, prevents unproductive heat loss.

Specifications

I will briefly describe the main technical characteristics of the material:

1. Thermal conductivity. The thermal conductivity coefficient of expanded polystyrene is in the range of 0.028-0.034 W / (m * K), that is, lower than that of mineral wool. The specific value depends on how dense the foam you get for work.

I'll warn you right now. Do not confuse foam and extruded polystyrene foam. Although they are relatives, their technical characteristics differ significantly. Therefore, we will talk about EPS separately in the next section.

1. Vapor permeability and water absorption. Conventional building foam does not allow air to penetrate through the insulation layer.

Therefore, the insulation of the loggia with foam plastic from the inside requires additional measures to be taken to ventilate the room in order to remove excess moisture from it. Otherwise, the microclimate in the room will be far from comfortable.

The situation is different with water absorption. When in contact with liquid, the foam absorbs approximately 4% of its volume. However, unlike mineral wool, its heat-preserving properties do not deteriorate much from this, therefore it is not necessary to carefully waterproof the insulation layer.

1. Strength. For insulation, building foams are used that meet the requirements of DIN 7726 and are classified as "rigid". That is, when a load is applied, the surface of the heat insulator reacts elastically. However, when a dynamic or strong static force is applied, the integrity of the insulation may be compromised.

In other words, if you use polystyrene foam for the internal insulation of the loggia, you immediately need to decide how to finish the inside after insulation. You need to choose a method of decorative finishing that would simultaneously protect the insulation layer from mechanical damage.

The strength of the foam is largely dependent on its density. But with an increase in density, heat-preserving properties deteriorate. The optimal density of foam for internal insulation is 25. You can also buy 35, but this, in my opinion, is already an unjustified waste of money.

1. Chemical resistance. Classically, expanded polystyrene perfectly tolerates the effects of household chemicals, which include soap, soda, and mineral fertilizers. It is chemically neutral in contact with bituminous resins, cement and lime mortars, asphalts.

However, I myself saw how the foam “melts” when some varnishes, drying oils and other similar substances get on it. In addition, petroleum products with various alcohols are also dangerous.

All this once again suggests that if you are going to use this insulation for internal works, care must be taken to protect it carefully.

1. Sound absorption. If you want the insulation layer to act as a sound insulator at the same time, then you will be disappointed with the foam. It is able to protect a little only from impact noise, and even then, if you lay 10-15 centimeters of insulation.

Other noises that are transmitted through the air, the foam does not jam. The fact is that the cells with air inside the material are rigidly fixed and completely isolated from the outside world. Therefore, sound waves do not absorb.

1. Antiseptic and environmentally friendly. In 2004, research by scientists from the United States finally proved that biological life on the surface of expanded polystyrene is impossible. Therefore, there is no need to be afraid of the appearance of mold and fungus.

As for security issues environment(for some this is very important), then everything is fine here too, since in the production of insulation they refused to use freon, which is harmful to the ozone layer of the planet. In addition, the foam itself serves for a long time without losing its performance properties. And regardless of the number of cycles of freezing and thawing.

However, the insulation in question is subject to oxidation. Moreover, the lower the density of the material, the faster this process. Especially if the material is exposed to direct sunlight. And during oxidation, it releases many harmful substances, which include:

• benzene;
• toluene;
• formaldehydes;
• methyl alcohol;
• acetophenone and so on.

But during the construction of houses, wood is also treated with various chemicals, which also harm human health. So wood cannot be considered a completely environmentally friendly building material. However, I am only stating the facts, and you will have to make the final choice.

1. Fire safety. According to the current Russian standards (GOST under the number 30224-94), foam plastics belong to the third and fourth flammability classes. In other words, they are very dangerous when viewed from this point of view.

When choosing a heater, pay attention to what standards the expanded polystyrene is certified. In Europe, the flammability class is determined by three factors (biological, chemical and complex). So, experts from the EU believe that the most combustible material is wood, but do not take into account the danger of combustion products formed during the ignition of the foam.

Therefore, when purchasing material, pay attention to certificates issued based on the results of comprehensive studies. And buy polystyrene foam, which contains flame retardants (it is marked with the letter “C”). This does not mean that such material will burn worse. It just takes a longer exposure to a more intense flame to ignite it.

In any case, I can say that despite various fire retardants and other additives to the foam, it continues to be a rather combustible material. Therefore, if you are going to arrange a workshop on the loggia, it is better to choose other materials for insulation. Moreover, flame retardants disappear over time.

1. Lifetime. Subject to the foam installation technology (that is, laying it under plaster or other decorative material), it will retain its performance properties for at least 30 years. However, this is if you do not make mistakes, which I want to talk about below.

First of all, this is the wrong choice of a warming elk. Some, for example, believe that if you lay a foam board 30 cm thick, then the loggia will be insulated as efficiently as possible. This is not so, because a thick insulation will warp and crack due to temperature fluctuations.

As a rule, 5 cm thick slabs or two such slabs stacked on top of each other are used to insulate a dwelling. Among other things, this method of installation allows you to reduce the amount of smoke emitted during a fire and reduce the risk of poisoning people in the room.

Well, now I kind of summarize everything that has been said and give some advice to those who have already decided to buy polystyrene foam to insulate their loggia:

1. For internal insulation, I advise you to purchase polystyrene foam with the PSB-S marking with a density of 35-40. In any case, do not take insulation with a density of less than 25. It is only suitable for packaging household appliances but not for construction.
2. Sometimes manufacturers label the foam with the number "40", which does not indicate its density. Therefore, pay attention not only to the numbers in the name, but also to the technical characteristics, which, according to the law, must be placed on the package or provided separately at the request of the buyer.
3. Buy foam produced by extrusion (should be listed in the accompanying documentation). This is the only way to give the material a density higher than 20 kg per cubic meter.
4. To check the quality of the material on the spot, break off a piece from it. If you see balls at the break point, which are also easily separated, then you have packaging material in front of you. Styrofoam for insulation has cells in the form of polyhedrons, along which a fracture occurs.
5. If we talk about specific manufacturers, then I recommend paying attention to the materials of TechnoNikol, BASF, Styrochem or Polimeri Europa. These materials are of excellent quality and are quite affordable.

Penoplex

I recently used extruded polystyrene foam to insulate a balcony. And he chose the material of a domestic manufacturer for work - foam plastic. That's why I'm going to talk about it in this section.

Specifications

The first extruded polystyrene foam was produced in the United States of America about half a century ago. essence technological process is as follows: expanded polystyrene granules are placed in a chamber where they are melted under high temperature. Then this mass is foamed with the help of chemicals and squeezed out through rectangular nozzles onto the conveyor, where it cools.

For foaming, so-called foams are used, that is, substances that, when heated, emit gases: nitrogen or carbon dioxide.

After hardening, the extruded polystyrene tape is cut into slabs and packed in polyethylene for transportation to construction sites.

As for penoplex, it consists of the following components:

• polystyrene;
• ground perlite;
• sodium bicarbonate;
• lemon acid;
• barium stearate;
• tetrabromoparaxylene.

The use of foams in the production of foam gives the latter a porous structure, like foam. But unlike the latter, the cells of this material are tightly interconnected into a homogeneous structure, so the air is more evenly distributed inside the material.

The size of the air cells in the insulation is from 0.1 to 0.3 mm. They are isolated from each other, so they have good thermal resistance and low water absorption. In addition, this whole structure has greater strength than classic expanded polystyrene (styrofoam).

The exact technical characteristics of the penoplex are shown in the illustration below:

As you can see, there are several varieties of this extruded polystyrene foam on the building materials market, which differ in the characteristics and dimensions of the plates. Accordingly, they must be used for insulation of various structures.

If you are not too versed in the above figures, I will decipher some of the parameters:

1. Coefficient of thermal conductivity. For penoplex, this figure is approximately 0.03 W / (m * K). This is one of the lowest coefficients of all existing heaters. At the same time, what attracts me personally: this indicator does not change depending on humidity and temperature. That is, when using penoplex, it is not necessary to protect it with additional waterproofing membranes.
2. Hygroscopicity. When in contact with water or moist air, the foam board absorbs no more than 0.6% of its own volume. In this case, humidification continues only during the first 10 days after installation, and then stops. Only the upper layers of the insulation are impregnated, which positively affects the integrity of the material.
3. Vapor permeability. The material does not pass moisture vapor dissolved in the air through itself. Therefore, the surfaces finished with foam are not covered with vapor barrier films. On the other hand, you will have to take measures to ventilate the room to remove excess water vapor.
4. Compressive strength. This parameter is at a height, which is achieved due to the homogeneous structure of the penoplex. Therefore, it can be used for floor insulation on the loggia (laying the insulation under cement screed). If a significant force is applied to the insulation, a dent with a depth of no more than 1 mm may form on the surface.
5. Environmental friendliness. Although the manufacturer claims that the material is completely safe for the environment and humans, it still emits no a large number of chemical compounds that may be hazardous to health.
6. Lifetime. Experiments carried out at the Penoplex plant show that the material is able to withstand more than 50 consecutive freeze and thaw cycles. Therefore, when used outdoors, it will retain its technical characteristics for at least half a century. And inside the loggia and even more.

To all of the above, I can also add that penoplex tolerates the effects of aggressive chemicals and solvents well. However, it is destroyed upon contact with petroleum products, benzene, formaldehyde, acetone, oil and some other materials. This must be taken into account when choosing a method of decorative finishing.

Marking methods

There are several types of extruded polystyrene foam Penoplex on sale. To make it easier for you to choose suitable variety I present the following table.

Marking	Scope of application
Penoplex 31	Used for insulation of industrial tanks with various liquids and technical pipelines.
Penoplex 31C	A material that, like the previous one, is not very durable, therefore it can only be used for internal insulation. Unlike the previous one, it has the ability to self-extinguish when ignited.
Penoplex 35	Material of medium strength and density, which is ideal for internal insulation of the loggia. Moreover, it can be installed not only on walls and ceilings, but also on the floor under a cement screed.
Penoplex 45	Very durable and moisture resistant insulation. It is used for external thermal insulation of surfaces that experience a large static and dynamic load. On the loggia, it can be used to warm the floor.
Penoplex 45C	Self-extinguishing type of insulation described in the previous row of the table. It is mainly used for thermal insulation of industrial and commercial buildings.

However, in addition to digital marking, penoplex has its own names. Detailed description I will list each brand in the following table.

Name	Density, kg/cu.m.	Purpose
Wall	25-32	It is used for internal and external insulation of enclosing walls, internal partitions and basement floors above ground level.
Foundation	29-33	It is used for thermal insulation of structures buried in the ground. This type of foam is very durable and able to withstand the load exerted by the soil after backfilling the pit.
Roof	28-33	It is used for insulation of attic rooms. The insulation has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity, but is fragile, so it is better not to use it in places where it will be subjected to a constant load.
Comfort	25-35	Material ideal for internal insulation of balconies, loggias and other premises. Differs in that it can be used in rooms with high humidity air.

If you ask my opinion, then I would advise using Penoplex Comfort slabs 5 cm thick to insulate the loggia, laying them in one layer under the screed or in a pre-arranged crate.

Basalt wool

Another fairly common insulation for loggias and balconies is mineral wool. There are several varieties of this material, but I prefer the variety that is made from a volcanic mineral - basalt. Basalt wool is the most environmentally friendly material with excellent technical characteristics and performance properties.

This insulation was invented in Hawaii, when local residents, after one of the volcanic eruptions, discovered strong and thin fibers in the vicinity.

Now basalt wool is produced industrially. To do this, gabbro-basalt is collected and melted in a melting furnace at a temperature of just over 1500 degrees Celsius. Then the mixture enters the drum, where it is blown by a jet of air and rotates. The result is fibers with a thickness of 7 microns and a length of about 5 cm.

After that, a binder is added to the mass of fibers, after which the mixture is heated to 300 degrees Celsius and pressed into mats, which are used for insulation.

Specifications

I will tell you the most important thing about this heater:

1. Thermal conductivity. According to this indicator, wool, although it does not overtake penoplex, is not an outsider. The thermal conductivity coefficient is from 0.032 to 0.048 W/(K*m).

In order for you to understand what is at stake, I will compare, for example, a 10-cm layer of basalt wool with a density of 100 kg per cubic meter with other building materials. To ensure the same level of thermal insulation, it is necessary to build a wall of ceramic bricks with a thickness of 1 m 20 cm. silicate brick you will need even more - 2 meters. As for the wooden wall, its thickness should be at least 25 cm.

1. Water absorption. Basalt wool has hydrophobic properties. That is, water does not penetrate inside the fibers and does not linger in the insulation, changing its technical characteristics.

This, by the way, is the fundamental difference between basalt fiber and glass wool or slag wool. The last two varieties after getting wet (from contact with water or moisture vapor) increase their thermal conductivity, that is, they retain heat indoors worse.

So if you are going to insulate the loggia from the inside, you need to take exactly basalt wool, and not from glass fibers. Do not confuse. Its water absorption is no more than 2% of its own volume.

1. Vapor permeability. The described insulation, unlike the previous ones, does not prevent air infiltration through the building envelope. Moisture, penetrating through the decorative material, is removed outside and does not condense in the insulation layer.

The vapor permeability of the material is about 0.3 mg / (m * h * Pa). That is, on the loggia where you use such a heater, a comfortable microclimate for living will independently form, if you look at it from the point of view of air humidity.

1. Fire safety. Due to the fact that basalt, being a volcanic rock, has a very high melting point, the heat-insulating material itself belongs to the class of completely non-combustible materials.

Moreover, it is able to stop the further spread of the flame. The thermal insulation layer loses its integrity at a temperature of at least 1100 degrees Celsius. Therefore, by the way, it is used for insulation. engineering systems and pipelines, the surface of which is very hot during operation.

The material fully complies with the requirements of GOST under the number 30244 and SNiP under the number 21-01-97. It has no restrictions when warming residential premises.

1. Soundproof properties. Unlike expanded polystyrenes, basalt wool perfectly absorbs sound waves. This is due to the fact that the air contained inside the insulation is not closed inside the cells, and the fibers themselves are arranged randomly.

Moreover, cotton wool not only cuts off noise from the street, but also reduces the reverberation time. That is, not only the loggia itself is soundproofed, but also the rooms located behind it.

1. Strength. As in all other cases, this parameter depends on the density of the basalt wool. Although it is smaller than that of polystyrenes, it is still sufficient for construction work, since some basalt fibers are arranged vertically when forming mats.

As a result, when the insulation layer is deformed by 10%, it shows a compressive strength of 5 to 80 kilopascals. And this indicator does not decrease depending on the operating time.

Nevertheless, it is impossible to install basalt mats under the floor screed. For insulation, I recommend equipping the crate, on which decorative material is then mounted. Although there are some varieties (for example, Dan Floor from Danova), which are specifically designed for insulating floors under a cement screed.

1. Biological and chemical activity. The material does not react with chemicals and does not cause corrosion of metal parts. In addition, mold and fungus do not start inside the insulation layer and on its surface, insects and rodents do not live.

So you can insulate the loggia in the country. Unlike foam, which mice love to chew on.

1. Environmental Safety. The insulation is completely safe for the environment and humans, as it is made from a natural mineral. However, the fibers are glued together with phenol, which can be hazardous to health.

But I hasten to assure the skeptics. All dangerous substances are neutralized when heated at the stage of production of basalt wool. But even at the stage of manufacturing the material, the emission is no more than 0.05 mg per cubic meter per hour.

In addition, during operation, mineral fibers do not irritate the skin, mucous membranes and respiratory organs of a person.

Material disadvantages

So that you do not get the impression that basalt wool is just a gift of fate for warming the loggia, I will list the main disadvantages of the material:

• high cost of insulation;
• the presence of seams in the insulation layer, which make it leaky;
• the possibility of the formation of basalt dust, which causes inconvenience to installers in the process of working with it;
• high coefficient of vapor permeability, which in some cases is simply not needed.

Summary

Now you have all necessary information to choose a suitable insulation for the thermal insulation of the loggia. Those who are interested in how to lay the selected insulation with their own hands can watch the video in this article.

Creating a favorable microclimate on the loggia involves not only wall insulation, the entire space must be airtight. The floor and ceiling surfaces are also sheathed with a material with a low degree of thermal conductivity. In our article, you will learn how to properly insulate a balcony from the inside.

The choice of heat insulator

Advantages and disadvantages are inherent in each type of thermal insulation. In order to choose the most suitable insulation, you should compare the main characteristics of heat insulators.

The most common options for heat insulators:

• Extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex);
• Foamed polyethylene (penofol);
• Polyurethane foam (PPU);
• Styrofoam;
• Mineral wool.

Mineral wool

The thickness of the sheets varies from 2 to 20 cm. Mineral wool is divided into three types, depending on the components of the raw materials:

An example of a mineral wool device on a loggia. The material is placed in the prepared structure. The frame for mounting can be made of metal profiles or wooden bars.

Manufacturers produce cotton wool in the form of mats and soft rolls. In some cases, one side is covered with foil. Aluminum foil improves the level of thermal insulation.

The main disadvantage is that moisture acts destructively, a vapor barrier device is necessary.

Polymer-based insulation

Penoplex, polyurethane foam, polystyrene, foamed polyethylene are polymers treated with foamed compounds.

Advantages:

• The presence of gas bubbles provides not only a good level of thermal insulation, but also a small weight of the plates;
• High degree of moisture resistance;
• The materials are durable;
• Antifungal resistance;
• Simplicity and convenience when laying plates or sheets, as well as rolls (polyethylene foam);
• An economical repair option, subject to the choice of foam as a heater.

Main disadvantage: support the spread of flame during a fire, emit harmful substances in the combustion process.

When choosing foam and other materials based on polymers, it is necessary to correctly select the thickness of the plates and determine the density

1. Styrofoam sheets

Insulator plates (expanded polystyrene) in the process of laying.

Styrofoam refers to budgetary methods of warming a loggia, however, it is considered a rather fragile material, so a crate is required for installation. A worthy replacement is extruded polystyrene foam; its installation does not require the creation of a special frame.

2. Penoplex

Extruded polystyrene foam boards (thickness 50 mm) are used as insulation. The seams between the elements are sealed with mounting foam. Penoplex is attached with the help of special dish-shaped dowels ("fungi").

3. Penofol

The material is used as a separate heat insulator, and with the help of penofol it is possible to provide a vapor barrier of expanded polystyrene. Due to the foil side, warm air is reflected and retained in the room.

In order to speed up the insulation of the structure, you can use an alternative method of thermal insulation - spraying polyurethane foam (PPU).

4. Polyurethane foam

PPU is one of the most modern heat insulators. The cost of application services is considered high compared to other analogues, however, many have managed to evaluate the performance properties of PPU. This insulation is characterized by high thermal insulation performance, due to the finely porous structure.

The main stages of work on the insulation of the loggia space

In order to increase the usable area in your home and operate the premises all year round, you must:

1. Close the gaps, if any. Carefully study the room to eliminate all design flaws. As a rule, the gaps are filled with mounting foam, even if they are of a significant size.

After complete drying, it is necessary to trim the excess.

2. Glazing with reliable double-glazed windows.

3. Arrange a waterproofing layer. To protect against moisture, waterproofing with penetrating properties is used - Penetron, Aquaton, etc. The composition is applied with a roller, brush, or sprayed. Such impregnation penetrates into the thickness, so the walls become maximally resistant to adverse weather, and strength characteristics are improved.

5. Installation of a vapor barrier layer. In order to make a vapor barrier, special polymer membranes (“breathing”) should be used, as well as films “Rockwool”, “Izospan”, penofol.

Balcony decoration

Purposes of creating interior decoration:

• External masking of the heat insulator;
• Organization of a favorable internal environment in the room.

To create an interior balcony, you can choose from various finishes. Plaster, plastic panels, MDF, lining, plywood, plasterboard sheets and even a block house are perfect for the finishing layer.

The lining panels are environmentally friendly and reliable. One of the main advantages of the finishing material is rigidity. The lining is fixed on a wooden frame crate.

The walls of the loggia are lined with clapboard, the flooring is laminate.

Facing the balcony with a block house.

IN plastic panels there are grooves for connecting elements. Plastic variant lining has less rigidity and strength than wood.

Installation of GKLV sheets on metal profiles. Plasterboard slabs can be decorated with wallpaper, painted, or lined with decorative plaster.

Wall decoration with wallpaper over GKLV sheets.

Bamboo wallpaper. The basis for finishing - drywall.

Video

1. The result of warming the loggia.

Glazed balcony. Demonstration of electrical outputs. Testing the strength of extruded polystyrene foam. The use of foam plastic with a thickness of 30 and 50 mm, wall finishing with putty. Concrete floor screed over insulation boards.

2. Stages of repair work on the balcony.

Sequential process of arranging the premises. Scheme of thermal insulation of walls with polystyrene foam and foamed polyethylene, finishing - plastic panels. Floor: leveling, thermal insulation, sheathing OSB board, installation of laminate lamellas.

What and how best to insulate the balcony from the inside with your own hands

The loggia is a part of the apartment that requires high-quality insulation. If you leave it in its original state, then in winter the cold will penetrate into the rest of the premises, and this is an extra cash cost for heating. Owners who do not know how and with what to insulate the balcony on their own invite workers whose services cost a lot of money. And it’s good if hired craftsmen turn out to be professionals, because contractors with a lack of qualification often come to the call.

If we take professionals as an example, they first visually assess the condition of the balcony and take into account the year in which it was built. apartment house. Then they pay attention to the frame (metal or wooden) and evaluate the dilapidation of the skin. Last but not least, experienced workers compare neighboring loggias and can offer the owner to make a design in the same style as them.

Because of the old-style balconies, all the work becomes more complicated, especially if this building is not closed, but open. In this case, the craftsmen are engaged in additional strengthening of the structure and replacing rotten parts: they cut off the rusted metal elements of the frame and reconstruct the concrete site. The upper and lower parts of the balcony are reinforced without fail.

It is after the restoration of the structure that specialists are engaged in facing and internal thermal insulation premises. Often, owners prefer to equip their balconies with foam blocks and double-glazed windows. The stones are laid out at half the total height of the loggia, and the open space is closed with windows. The result is not only an attractive appearance buildings, but also significantly increases its strength. By the way, a double-glazed window will significantly warm the room.

If the owner of the apartment changes the windows to plastic ones, then it is advisable for him to purchase products with double glass, since single ones retain heat by only 30% in the cold season.

Without preparing the balcony, one cannot approach subsequent cardinal actions. Before purchasing materials for warming the loggia, inside the premises, specialists carry out the following work:

The interior arrangement of the loggia concerns not only the ceiling and walls. It is equally important to insulate the floor, for example, with penofol.

For internal insulation of almost all structures, expanded polystyrene is very widely used. Its low cost does not affect the quality. It is sold in the form of plates with a thickness of 5 cm or more. If the apartment is located in the conditions of the north, then it is better to use sheets 15 cm thick. For the installation of foam, they make a crate with the same cells. Expanded polystyrene is convenient in that it can be easily cut with an ordinary knife.

The positive aspects of this insulation are that it is odorless, does not emit harmful substances, is environmentally friendly and does not affect human health. Sheets, as a rule, are fixed on special "umbrellas" or building glue. As a savings, it is better to insulate the balcony inside it.

Mineral wool is also quite popular. Such insulation is slightly more expensive than foam plastic, but this is due to the additional sound insulation that the material has. Therefore, using mineral wool, you can not only insulate the structure with high quality, but also eliminate street noise. It is sold in the form of yellow rolls.

The fire safety of this insulation is at a high level, and the absence of a specific smell makes mineral wool one of the most popular. The material begins to melt at a temperature of 1000 degrees. Under such rolls, it is also necessary to make a crate. Another plus is easy cutting. The disadvantage is due to the composition, which includes powdered glass, which sticks into the skin when working and causes itching and redness.

Penoplex is a new insulation that has appeared on the building materials market relatively recently and has already become popular. It has a low weight, due to which it is convenient to work with it. Penoplex is produced in the form of rectangular sheets, the cutting of which is possible even with a clerical knife. According to the method of attachment, it is similar to foam, which is glued or fixed with fasteners. The surface of the material is rough, so it does not slip in the hands.

Granular expanded clay is often laid on the floor. Such insulation for a balcony inside has a porous structure and consists of baked clay, so it is environmentally friendly. Builders use it to insulate floors and ceilings.

The work process is simple, it is enough to create a layer of expanded clay and spill it with liquid cement so that the granules are held together. But keep in mind that such material will take 15-20 cm of height from floor to ceiling. In addition, a thin-layer screed will have to be poured over the expanded clay, because the relief surface will not be suitable for laying, for example, the same parquet or laminate.

Another option for insulation - penofol. It is made from polyethylene foam. The material is especially suitable for water-heated floors, as it has a foil coating with a heat-reflecting effect. This insulation has 4 advantages: it does not let the wind through, retains heat, prevents the penetration of water and has vapor barrier properties. Penofol is flexible and easy to cut, and environmentally friendly substances do not harm human health. They produce insulation in the form of rolls, therefore, it is convenient to work with it. The installation process takes no more than 1 hour.

As previously mentioned, foam plastic is cheap, but nevertheless it is practical, many builders use it. What is the best way to insulate a balcony from the inside with polystyrene foam:

The thickness of the wall from the edge of the interior to the exterior, taking into account the foam block, should be 30 cm. This is enough to retain heat and prevent the penetration of cold into the room.

Pouring concrete, expanded clay layer and similar ways cost a lot of money. You can make a similar insulation, but at the same time save money. An option for a cheap finish made of wood and foam can be like this:

Specialists always start finishing from the walls and ceiling, and at the end they deal with the floor. If everything is done the other way around, then the base will be damaged, and the front surface will be scratched.

How to insulate a balcony with your own hands: from a refrigerator to a warm island

To begin with, it is worth saying that there are two ways to insulate a balcony - from the inside and outside. External insulation, of course, is more convenient - precious centimeters of area are not “eaten up”, and the cladding of the balcony facade becomes more pleasant. But this is a laborious process that requires the involvement of a construction team and industrial climbers. Therefore, in the article we will focus on how to properly insulate a balcony in an apartment from the inside - this can be done independently.

For insulation inside the balcony, first of all, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work. They include several important steps:

• How to start warming a loggia or balcony? Free up space from all unnecessary. It is best if the balcony is completely empty: it is much easier to work this way. Also, get rid of the old finish in advance.
• Seal all the cracks - a lot of heat escapes through them. For small gaps, a weather-resistant sealant is suitable, fill larger gaps with mounting foam - it will not only fill the voids, but also serve as an additional heat insulator.
• To make it easier for you to carry out work on insulation, it is important to even out cracks and irregularities on the walls and ceiling with cement mortar.
• If you plan to place light bulbs on the balcony or lighting, it is worth taking care of the wiring in advance. To hide unpresentable cables, place them in plastic boxes.
• Before starting work, cover the opening between the balcony and the adjacent room with a film so that building dust and other pollutants do not get into the apartment.

Is it possible to insulate a balcony in winter? Yes, you can. Only when working in winter, it is necessary to choose frost-resistant materials, in particular mounting foam.

How to insulate a balcony: what materials are better to choose

To understand how to insulate a loggia or balcony, let's first figure out what properties the materials should have:

• high strength;
• fire safety;
• water resistance;
• environmental friendliness;
• relatively low cost;
• ease of installation (if we want to do all the work with our own hands).

Most often, mineral wool, polystyrene foam, polystyrene, etc. are used for insulation. Sometimes several of these materials are combined. We have reflected the pros and cons of each heat insulator in the table:

insulation Advantages Flaws Expanded clay Low cost;
Durability;
fire safety;
Not afraid of mold and mildew;
Light weight;
Easily takes any shape High moisture permeability;
Suitable only for floor insulation;
May be difficult to install Mineral wool Good sound and heat insulation;
Environmental friendliness;
fire safety;
Easily takes any shape Deterioration of properties when exposed to water;
The thickness of the insulation "steals" the usable area Styrofoam Low cost;
Ease of installation;
Light weight;
Not afraid of mold and mildew fragility;
combustibility Extruded polystyrene boards High strength;
Ease of installation;
moisture resistance;
Durability Relatively high cost polyurethane foam(liquid insulation) High strength;
moisture resistance;
Durability;
Fills cavities of any shape Relatively high cost;
Mandatory availability of special equipment Penofol(foamed polyethylene with a layer of metal foil) moisture resistance;
Durability;
Small thickness;
Good thermal and waterproofing Rarely used as an independent heat insulator, usually only in combination with other materials

What is the best insulation for a balcony? The answer to this question depends on your preferences and financial capabilities. You can read more about the characteristics of heaters, as well as about the insulation of an apartment as a whole, in our blog.

How to insulate a balcony with your own hands: step by step photos and instructions

A balcony is a place in an apartment that can be used for various purposes. Someone stores various things there, someone uses it to dry clothes, and someone makes a favorite resting place out of the balcony or even small room. In any case, the insulation of the balcony is a very important point that should be given close attention. If you want to know how to insulate a balcony with your own hands: step by step photos and detailed instructions can be easily found on the internet. The main thing is to avoid common mistakes and strictly adhere to the correct sequence of actions.

There are several points in which very many people make mistakes when insulating a balcony on their own:

• Rush. Often the insulation of the balcony occurs in haste. Usually, this involves filling the cracks with putty, installing warm windows and plugging in a radiator. At the same time, the heat from the apartment continues to leave through the balcony, which is very surprising to its owner.
• Use of poor quality materials. Therefore, how to insulate the balcony inside is an important question that must be asked before starting work. A balcony is a fairly large space, so bad windows or improperly installed flooring can create a serious leak of warm air.

In order for the balcony and the entire apartment to be as protected from the cold as possible, a certain procedure should be followed. So you save time, effort and get high quality insulation. If you want to know how to insulate a balcony with your own hands, step-by-step photos will help you with this.

Installation of double-glazed windows

The first stage, from which the insulation of any room begins, is the installation of modern double-glazed windows. If you have old wooden frames, then a very large amount of heat escapes through them, no matter how you insulate. But when installing double-glazed windows on a balcony, there is one nuance that distinguishes it from other rooms - the parapet. On many old balconies, it is not strong enough to support the weight of heavy metal-plastic windows. In this case, it will have to be further strengthened.

Helpful advice! It is best to strengthen the parapet with reinforcement. The thick iron bars and cement will hold up well to any extra weight. The brick version is also good, but it is thicker and heavier.

Before you insulate the balcony with your own hands, you need to decide on the material window structures- these can be frames made of PVC, aluminum or wood.

Stages of work on the insulation of the balcony

Properties of different types of windows

Wooden frames are the cheapest, but not the best option in terms of window properties. Wooden windows do not hold heat well, are not airtight. It is worth using them only if there are no severe colds in your latitudes.

Aluminum windows are more expensive, but retain heat better. In addition, they are the most reliable and durable, excellently resist corrosion and other negative influences.

PVC frames - the best option in terms of price and quality. Polyvinyl chloride is not afraid of dampness and temperature changes. It is not as resistant to stress as aluminum, but it provides the most high level thermal conductivity.

How to insulate a balcony so that it is warm in winter? The following types of windows are well suited for this purpose:

With hinged doors;

With double glazing;

with extended profiles.

How to insulate a balcony with your own hands: step by step photos

When insulating a balcony, one of the most important points is the thickness of the insulation layer. Often it turns out that it is necessary to insulate not only the walls, but also the floor with the ceiling. The main criterion for a material for insulation is its thermal conductivity. This figure is inversely proportional to the amount of heat that the material can hold. One of the most frequently asked questions when insulating is what is the best way to insulate a balcony: foam or mineral wool? It all depends on your financial capabilities.

The most common material for insulating balconies is extruded polystyrene foam. It is thin, light, easy to cut and install, durable and resists moisture and corrosion well. Its only drawback is the rather high cost. In this case, the budget option for insulation for the balcony is foam. It is also lightweight and easy to install, however, less durable.

Crack sealing

There are gaps in any old balcony - this is an axiom. Heat will escape through numerous cracks even if you have installed the warmest and most modern double-glazed windows. It is best to close them with polyurethane sealants and mastics, which are plastic enough, hold for a long time and are resistant to various kinds of natural influences, such as frost or wind.

The cracks are sealed with a special gun or a plastic nozzle that comes with the balloon. After the mastic or sealant has completely dried, you can proceed to the installation of the insulation. If you do not know how to insulate a balcony with your own hands, a step-by-step photo will help you in this moment.

How to insulate the floor and walls on the balcony with your own hands

After choosing and buying a heater, it must be fixed. Usually, this is done with dowels or construction adhesive. When mounting with glue, you need to choose a composition without toluene - it can corrode the material. If you decide to attach the insulation with dowels, then they must be placed around the perimeter with a calculation of approximately 10 dowels per square meter.

When insulating a balcony with your own hands, use step-by-step instructions, photos and videos that can be found on specialized resources.

Stages of insulation of the walls of the balcony:

Installation of a vapor barrier film with gluing joints with construction tape;

Installation of a crate made of wooden bars or a metal profile;

Installation of insulation - foam, mineral wool, etc.;

Sheathing of the crate with moisture-resistant plasterboard, plywood or other sheet materials;

Wall finishing.

Helpful advice! The seams between the layers of insulation or foam plates must be sealed with mounting foam. This will prevent heat loss through them.

Each type of surface has its own nuances of insulation. So, before warming the floor, it is worth leveling and laying waterproofing on it. And the use of vapor barrier tape will insure you against such troubles as fungus and mold. The walls and ceiling can be sheathed with moisture-resistant drywall. Photos of the design of the insulated balcony show that drywall, with proper finishing, looks great here.

Stages of insulation of the balcony floor:

Installation of a waterproofing film with the processing of joints with moisture-resistant mastic or sealant;

Laying a heat insulator - for example, foam;

Pouring a concrete screed with a thickness of 4-5 cm (an electric underfloor heating can be additionally installed in the screed);

It is possible to equip and insulate the floor on the balcony without using a concrete screed. To do this, after arranging the waterproofing, wooden logs are laid in the longitudinal direction of the balcony, which are attached to the concrete base. A heat-insulating material is laid between the lags - foam plastic, basalt wool, expanded clay, etc. Boards or sheet material (plywood, chipboard, etc.) are attached to the logs and equipped top coat gender.

Balcony roof insulation

If the roof of your balcony is not the floor of the neighbor's, then a separate approach is needed to warm it. The video "How to insulate a balcony from the inside with your own hands" clearly demonstrates the whole process. You need to choose a reliable roofing material, on its inner side it is desirable to apply sound insulation in the form of spraying or film. The following layers are also used:

Waterproofing - PVC or polyester films are perfect here;

Windproof membrane - allows steam from the insulation to pass through, but does not allow drops that can penetrate with the wind;

Anti-condensation layer - does not allow water vapor to drain onto the insulation;

Wooden frame - holds the roof;

Insulation itself - serves for thermal insulation of the roof;

Insulation vapor barrier - retains the insulating properties of the insulation, does not let water vapor inside it.

Additional insulation

In order to keep your balcony warm even in the most severe frosts, you can install a radiator, air conditioning or even a warm floor on it. The answer to the question "What is the best way to insulate balconies from the inside?" depends on your imagination, needs and financial possibilities.

If the balcony is combined with the room, then additional insulation can not be installed, the air conditioner will do a good job with this task. But there is a nuance - the air will warm up, but the floor will still remain cold, even if it is carpeted. Therefore, underfloor heating is a very appropriate option for complete insulation of the balcony. Installation of a warm floor is another difficult moment that is best left to experienced professionals. A step-by-step video instruction for warming a balcony with your own hands also helps here.

The better to insulate the balcony inside, the nuances of insulation in different seasons

Sometimes it happens that it is necessary to warm the balcony in winter. Many are interested in whether it is worth doing it and what it threatens. It all depends on the materials used for insulation. Some of them at sub-zero temperatures change their properties, and it becomes harder to process and mount them.

It is rather problematic to insulate a balcony with penoplex with your own hands in winter, and cement in the cold freezes very quickly and does not have time to really grasp. This leads to weakening of the masonry and the rapid destruction of the parapet. But there are a number of special winter adhesives and mixtures that are focused on use at low temperatures. A video of do-it-yourself balcony insulation in winter can also be found on the Internet.

Mounting foam also depends on temperature. If you choose the “summer” option for winter insulation, then this will not lead to anything good - the foam will quickly collapse and become unusable.

Another important point to consider when warming is dampness. You can often encounter it if you warm the balcony in autumn or spring. Most types of glue or mastic do not stick to a damp surface, and humidity also has a very bad effect on operational properties insulation, if it is not foam. That is why it is necessary to start the insulation and waterproofing of the balcony from the ceiling. In this case, sudden rain will not prevent you from continuing to insulate the walls and floor.

Helpful advice! Insulation of the balcony with penoplex and penofol can be done even in conditions of high humidity.

From the foregoing, it can be seen that it is possible to insulate a balcony not only in summer. The only exception is if the temperature drops below 20 degrees. Then even the most frost-resistant materials begin to behave very badly, and normal insulation will not work, even if you know for sure how to properly insulate the balcony from the inside.

Do-it-yourself interior decoration of the balcony: step-by-step instructions and recommendations

If the answer to the question "How to insulate a balcony with your own hands?" and step-by-step photos can be easily found on the Internet, then interior decoration remains entirely up to you. The best option here is drywall, which is moisture resistant and easy to further finish: painting, tiling, wallpapering.

Wiring can be hidden in hollow plastic casings so that it is not conspicuous, and carpeting can be laid on the floor. step by step video"How to insulate a balcony from the inside with your own hands" will help you decide on the type of insulation and interior design.

By the way, one of the most frequently asked questions is “How much does it cost to insulate a balcony and finish it?”. There is no exact answer to it, it all depends on the selected materials and the complexity of the work.

Warming the balcony from the inside with your own hands: step by step instructions

Insulation of a balcony (loggia) is a significant part of the measures for thermal insulation of housing in general. At the same time, the external version of the work is not applicable for all cases. The ban on external insulation applies to buildings located on the "red line", that is, facades facing avenues and central squares of cities. External insulation is considered unacceptable for buildings of historical significance, with some architectural styles of buildings. In such situations, the only available solution is to insulate the balcony with your own hands from the inside.

Internal thermal insulation

Depending on how exactly the balcony is made and how the insulation is organized at the neighbors from above and below, the option for arranging thermal insulation is selected:

• only the outer fencing plate in combination with high-quality double-glazed frames. Such a measure is sufficient for loggias, which are almost completely hidden in the building and go out only on one side;
• outer and side walls. The option is acceptable for balconies, similar rooms are thermally insulated from below and above (at the neighbors);
• full insulation - walls, floor and ceiling. Most rational option provided that there is no insulation from the neighbors above and below, as well as a large area of ​​​​contact with the external environment.

Balcony insulation from the inside can be done with one or more materials. At the same time, in addition to heat-insulating properties, such qualities of materials as the ability to resist moisture, ultraviolet radiation, dampen noise and create a sufficiently strong support for finishing materials (the latter especially applies to the floor) are considered.

Comparison of thermal insulation materials

The table below gives a comparative description of popular heat-insulating materials. A meter-thick brick wall was taken as a reference for comparison: in climatic conditions middle lane It is this thickness of the RF that is considered sufficient for high-quality thermal insulation at average (not record!) Winter and summer temperatures.

Material name	Layer thickness providing thermal insulation equivalent to 1 m brickwork, mm	Advantages	Flaws
Wood (beam, board)	380	Environmental friendliness, aesthetic appearance, you can do without finishing, high-quality sound insulation	Flammable, requires for fastening the crate or leveling the walls (floor, ceiling), not resistant to moisture, large thickness and high price
Mineral wool	140	Inexpensive and proven material, dampens sound well, slightly combustible	Requires battens for fastening, has a large thickness, surface finishing is required
Penofol, foiled on one side	107	High-quality thermal and sound insulation, resistance to moisture, ease of installation (especially for self-adhesive varieties), environmental friendliness	The high price, due to foiling in contact with bare wiring, can provoke a short circuit. Requires a ventilation gap, cannot be finished with wallpaper or plaster due to the softness of the material
Penofol, foiled on both sides
Penofol self-adhesive
Basalt fiber	87	Does not burn, has high sound and heat insulating properties, the plate version is quite simple to install	High price, the need for crates for soft roll varieties
Fiberglass	85	Inexpensive, with good insulating characteristics	In case of fire, it melts with the release of toxic substances; it requires protection in living quarters and during installation
Styrofoam	83	Good thermal insulation, long service life, very low price, easy installation	Toxicity at high temperatures(depending on the manufacturer), low sound absorption coefficient
Expanded polystyrene extruded	65	Ease of installation, good thermal and sound insulation, moisture resistance	High price, toxicity during combustion and high heat, fire hazard
Penoplex
Penoizol	55	Inexpensive, high-quality insulator, non-flammable, saves space	Requires pouring into prepared cavities, therefore it is of little use without a major restoration of the balcony

In the absence of severe financial restrictions and the desire to independently carry out all the work, mainly plate and roll materials are considered - mineral or basalt fiber, polystyrene, extruded, polystyrene foam, foam plastic, penofol. Further, the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room and its permissible reduction are taken into account. For small sizes, it is desirable to insulate and sheathe a balcony with minimal space loss, without a crate or its small cross section. Thus, with relatively flat floors, ceilings and walls, we will consider in detail for walls and ceilings: extruded polystyrene and polystyrene for plastering, double-sided foil foam under the crate with subsequent cladding. For the floor, we will take two options - mineral wool in a crate for an OSB subfloor, followed by laminate flooring, and self-adhesive mats for installing an electric (cable) underfloor heating, followed by laying tiles.

We believe that balcony frames have an acceptable coefficient of heat and sound insulation and do not need additional insulation along the contour.

Ceiling and wall decoration

Taking into account the use of the same material for walls and ceilings, we consider the procedure for their thermal insulation together, since the technology differs little. It is important to understand: despite the option considered in the table with a thickness of insulation similar to a meter brickwork, in practice a thinner layer is required. It also depends on the planned use of the premises. If it will be used as residential, we accept the maximum layer thickness (from the table). If the balcony should be “cold”, that is, its insulation is minimal and is performed only to reduce heat loss from housing, it is permissible to reduce the thickness by 2 ... 3 times.

Step-by-step insulation of the balcony with extruded polystyrene

The initial stage of work is the preparation of surfaces. It is necessary, if possible, to remove old finishing materials from them (wallpaper, tiles, paint, plaster) and clean weakly holding sections of the main wall. Existing protrusions must be cut down to a height of 1 ... 3 mm, cracks and potholes should be cleaned (embroidered) and filled with a repair mixture. The role of the repair composition can be specialized materials (for more details, see the article “Repair of cracks in concrete”) or a mixture of cement-sand mortar with tile adhesive. After the completion of the filling of defects, plastering or puttying is performed, the thickness of the layer depends on the existing irregularities.

After complete drying of the surface, marking is carried out taking into account the available dimensions of the plates and cutting of the plate material. Plates of extruded polystyrene are attached to the joint, so it is desirable to cut the cutting as accurately as possible. The procedure is performed using a construction knife. Mounting is carried out on glue, which (depending on the manufacturer's instructions) is applied to the wall with an indent of at least 5 mm from the edge or on boards with the same indent. The plate is pressed against the adhesive layer and held until it sets. Further work is carried out only after the adhesive has completely cured (according to the manufacturer's instructions). In order to increase the contact strength for each square meter of insulation, 4 ... 6 plate-type dowels are used. The seams are additionally sealed with mounting foam.

Additionally, thermal insulation made of extruded polystyrene is supplied with a vapor-reflecting film or membrane, which is glued (or fixed in other ways, depending on the type) with the reflective side outward, towards the street. The joints of the film or membrane are glued with special adhesive tape.

After the installation of the insulating layer, a reinforcing mesh is glued or fastened with dowels, on top of which a layer of plaster is applied, ordinary (for further finishing) or decorative.

Penoplex is mounted in the same way.

Insulation of the balcony with foam plastic

The initial stage of work is carried out in the same way, but taking into account the greater softness and plasticity of the material, it is not necessary to plaster and putty the walls and ceiling, and you can be less careful about removing small protrusions. The sealing of cracks and cavities is mandatory - the constant supply of moisture or "cold bridges" from the outside greatly reduces the quality of thermal insulation.

Installation of polystyrene foam is carried out on glue or using dowels, it is permissible to combine both options. The procedure is the same as for extruded polystyrene. The number of dowels per square meter is 4 ... 6, the adhesive is applied to the wall. over installed panels reinforcing mesh is attached and plastering is performed.

How to insulate a balcony from the inside with penofol

For this material preliminary preparation walls is important only when directly glued to the base.

If, as experts recommend, to arrange a ventilation gap of 15 ... 20 mm between the supporting structures and the insulator layer using a rack frame, complete alignment of the surfaces is not necessary. Enough to provide flat surface, formed by the outer side of the frame (this is done using linings, alignment is done according to the level. An example of such alignment is described in the article “How to install beacons for plaster”).

Penofol is attached to the rack (wooden) frame with self-tapping screws, directly to the wall (ceiling) - using an adhesive layer (type C) or dish-shaped dowels. The second layer of penofol, used if necessary to ensure the "living" temperature of the balcony, is also applied over the rack frame. In this case, the seams on the upper and lower layers should not match. For material foiled on both sides, the outer and inner side are equivalent, for one-sided foiling, the side with the foil should be facing the inside of the room.

All seams are sealed with a special heat-insulating tape. Facing of any type on top of thermal insulation with foam foam is arranged along the frame. In connection with the obligatory nature of the crate, the optimal type of cladding is lining, panels or slab materials.

How to insulate the floor on the balcony

Insulation of the walls of the balcony and its ceiling is not very effective without high-quality thermal insulation of the floor. At the same time, the creation of a strong and durable floor covering requires either a screed device - but it greatly burdens the structure - or systems on logs.

How to properly insulate a balcony with a floor device on the logs

Logs - beams of a relatively large section, the upper planes of which are at the same level - create the necessary support for the final flooring and serve as "cells" for placing insulation. At the same time, since the logs are made of wood, "cold bridges" do not occur.

To place the lag, it is not necessary to first level the floor slab, but it is advisable to remove old coatings and materials from it. This will reduce the level of finishing and provide the necessary strength of the support.

The device of the base, the calculation of the lag step are performed in accordance with generally accepted rules. Plates or fragments of insulation rolls are placed between the bars. It can be mineral or basalt wool, foam plastic, other types of heat and sound insulating materials. A rough floor is laid on top of OSB boards or plywood, a fine floor covering is arranged.

With a low load on the floors, it is permissible to insulate the balcony with high-strength foam panels, but preference should still be given to structures with lags.

Floor insulation on the balcony under cable heating mats

The question of how to insulate a balcony in a panel house is often combined with the need to arrange heating there. The removal of central heating batteries is often irrational, so the best option (without a significant rise in the level of the finished floor) is electric "warm floors".

The type of thermal insulation material for cable or infrared heating systems is selected in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations. However, the basic requirements for an insulator are as follows:

• high resistance to mechanical, including static, loads;
• good thermal insulation properties;
• small thickness.

The best option is extruded polystyrene, for example, Styrodur self-adhesive panels.

The material is glued to the prepared concrete base special glue. A reinforcing mesh and sections of the heating system are laid on top. The power of the heating sections is selected depending on the desired temperature and the estimated heat loss of the balcony. Usually it is 150 ... 180 watts per square meter. A smaller value corresponds to a “cold” one, a larger one to a “warm”, residential balcony.

A thin screed is arranged for the cable floor, infrared can be mounted directly under the laminate or tile.

Do-it-yourself loggia insulation - video

Conclusion

Whether to insulate the balcony, do it on your own or with the help of professionals, what time of the year to perform work and how seriously to take heat loss and temperature compliance - each apartment owner decides on his own. However, with any course of action, it is worth remembering: insulating a balcony with your own hands will cost (even when choosing high-quality and effective materials) cheaper than professional finishing. It is advisable to carry out all the manipulations in the warm season, since, of course, it is possible to insulate the balcony in winter, but this will create additional difficulties in work and will lead to condensation when there is a sharp change in heat loss resistance.

Most apartment owners use the balcony as a place to store rarely used things. If you want to get additional living space and turn it into a place to relax, a flower garden or an office, you can do it without involving specialists. We will describe in detail how to reliably insulate the balcony from the inside with your own hands.

What is the best thermal insulator to use?

Read also: How to insulate a private house with your own hands: roof, walls and foundation, description of thermal insulation materials offered on the market (Photo & Video) + Reviews

To finish the balcony, you can use both rolled and tiled materials that provide reliable thermal insulation:

• Styrofoam: an inexpensive tiled material with sufficiently high thermal insulation properties has two significant drawbacks; the first - a large thickness of the sheets, when using it, the already small area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe balcony will be significantly reduced; the second disadvantage is high fire hazard; to ignite it, a lit cigarette accidentally thrown from the top floor is sufficient; therefore, for cladding a balcony, purchase class G2 material that does not support self-combustion
• penoplex(extruded polystyrene foam): in composition, this material is similar to polystyrene, but due to a special production method with equal thermal insulation properties, it has a smaller thickness, greater mechanical strength; however, the cost of penoplex is higher; since the material has a low water absorption coefficient, in order to avoid condensation, the balcony will need to be regularly ventilated; about how to insulate the balcony with penoplex from the inside, we will tell a little lower
• "Penofol": foamed polyethylene, protected on both sides with aluminum foil, which serves as both wind and moisture protection; a significant plus is the minimum thickness, for insulation it is enough to use a material several millimeters thick; Izolon, Penolon, Teplofol, Energofol have similar composition and properties; disadvantage - high price
• mineral wool(glass, slag or basalt wool): the undoubted advantage of all these materials is high heat-insulating properties; some experts believe that the increased moisture permeability of the material in the case of balcony insulation is only a plus - absorbing excess moisture well, the material will protect the room from condensation on windows and walls; however, over time, mold can form in mineral wool, so it must be reliably protected from moisture penetration from both sides with the help of hydro- and vapor barrier

It is undesirable to use heat-insulating materials having a significant mass (for example, brick) for insulating balconies. After all, the bearing capacity of the balcony slab is limited. With excessive load, such a design simply may not withstand the additional weight.

The use of expanded clay for floor screed is also not recommended. Its main disadvantage is the ability to absorb moisture. As a result, its mass increases significantly.

Required Materials

Read also: Secrets of soundproofing walls in an apartment: we use modern materials and technologies (25+ Photos & Videos) + Reviews

The use of penoplex

To finish the balcony you will need the following materials:

• gas silicate blocks 80-100 mm wide for erecting a parapet
• glue based on cement for their laying
• slab or roll insulation
• wooden slats for the manufacture of lathing and installation of a rolled heat insulator; their thickness is selected so that it is equal to the width of the heat insulator
• self-tapping screws for mounting lathing with a diameter of 3.5-4.8 mm
• when using sheet material (foam or polystyrene) as a heater, special glue for their fastening
• polyethylene film or membrane material to create hydro- and vapor barrier
• polyurethane foam, mastic (for example, "Germabutil", "Germaflex" rubber-based) or silicone sealant for sealing joints, cracks

Where to begin? Inspection and repair of balcony slabs

Read also: Self-leveling floor: device, recommendations and step-by-step instructions on how to do it yourself (50 Photos & Videos) + Reviews

The condition of balcony slabs is not always satisfactory - over time, they can partially collapse. Therefore, before proceeding with the insulation of the balcony, you should check how strong and reliable its base is.

Minor and medium repairs are allowed to be carried out independently. If significant cracks appear, or even more so if reinforcement is exposed, fragments of the slab collapse or move away from the wall, specialists should be called.

Remember that major or emergency repairs should only be done by qualified installers from the management company. If the reinforcement is severely corroded, it may be necessary to reinforce it with steel beams. In case of severe destruction, the balcony slab can be completely cut off.

To repair damaged concrete sections:

1. All unnecessary is removed from the balcony, and all debris is completely removed, as well as the remnants of loose concrete
2. If the reinforcement is exposed, it is cleaned of rust. A reinforcing mesh is laid on top. So that it does not rust over time, it must be completely drowned in concrete. To do this, it is necessary to leave a gap between it and the plate.
3. Formwork is placed along the perimeter of the balcony slab
4. After pouring the concrete solution, the screed is ironed - sprinkled with dry cement, then rubbed into the dry mortar
5. To protect against moisture from below, the balcony slab is primed and then plastered. On the sides, a galvanized steel outflow is mounted

Read also: [Instruction] Do-it-yourself laminate on a wooden floor: a complete description of the process. Laying schemes, what materials should be used (Photo & Video) + Reviews

Filling the floor screed on the balcony

After the reconstruction of the slab, it is desirable to waterproof it.. For these purposes, roll materials or bitumen are used. To modern waterproofing materials carry the penetrating impregnation to the Penotron type. It is better to apply it in 2 layers.

Repair may also require a balcony railing. New structural elements in the form of shaped pipes are attached to the anchor or by welding.

The choice of glazing methods

Read also: What to do if plastic windows in a house or apartment sweat? Causes of condensation. Ways to solve this problem (Photo & Video) + Reviews

If your balcony has conventional 1-chamber double-glazed windows, they should be replaced. Otherwise, you will waste a significant part of the energy resources spent on heating the room. A warm balcony requires 2- or 3-chamber double-glazed windows. In the conditions of the Far North, they can be 5-chamber.

Balcony glazing is more difficult than the usual installation of double-glazed windows in windows. In this case, the installation of additional components is required. Therefore, be sure to invite proven masters of high qualification.

It is undesirable to use wooden double-glazed windows for glazing. Due to the accumulated condensate, over time they will begin to rot. Plus, the weight of such structures saturated with water will be significant. If for some reason you decide to stay on wooden products, do not forget to treat them regularly with an antiseptic and paint.

The use of the latest technologies - glazing using I- or K-glasses - will help reduce heat loss by 30%. The first option is I-glass with a multilayer coating, which includes small percentage silver - able to reflect up to 90% of the outgoing heat. Since such surfaces can be easily scratched, they are installed with a coating inside the room.

Non-ferrous metal oxide is applied to K-glass, due to which heat is reflected from the batteries into the room. Such a coating is less afraid of damage. Although the prices for both glass options are the same, the degree of heat reflection in K-glasses is less and amounts to 30%.

Read also: Plastic windows in a wooden house: a description of the main characteristics, how to install it yourself, photo and video instructions

Poor quality profile may turn yellow over time, so pay special attention to certificates of its quality. Choose profile systems from trusted manufacturers. If you want double-glazed windows to last longer, do not save on fittings either.

To more economical way Window sealing includes ordinary polyurethane foam. But it will be better if all the cracks are sealed with a sealant that has water-repellent properties. You should not refuse to install flashings - they not only look decorative, but also protect the room from drafts.

You can order for balcony windows blinds or covering with a special opaque film. It will protect the premises from prying eyes.

Balcony insulation step by step

Read also: Foundation: description of the device, types, complete step-by-step instructions for bookmarking with your own hands (Photo & Video) + Reviews

It is necessary to sheathe with a heat insulator not only the walls, but also the floor and ceiling, otherwise the insulation will simply lose its meaning. After all, reinforced concrete slabs freeze through during the cold season.

Preparatory work

Read also: Making and laying paving slabs with your own hands: step by step instructions for dry and wet mix. Making a mold, vibrating table (Photo & Video) + Reviews

Before starting work, carefully inspect the balcony for cracks. If they are found, carefully fill them with sealant or mounting foam. Their excess must be cut off. After all, when installing the skin, they will interfere with its alignment.

So that at the end of the repair you do not have to wash dusty, dirty windows, attach a plastic film to them. If you plan to lay communications on the balcony (wiring, sockets, tubes for air conditioners), it is more convenient to do this in advance.

Read also: The blind area around the house: views, device, schematic drawings, instructions on how to do it yourself (30 Photos & Videos) + Reviews

Both foam and aerated concrete are able to reliably store heat, so they are often used to insulate balconies or loggias. However, since aerated concrete is able to absorb water, it is better to focus on foam blocks. Their air cells are completely closed from moisture penetration.

When using aerated concrete, additional finishing will be required to protect against rain and snow.

1. If there are significant differences in height or potholes on the concrete slab, it is leveled with cement mortar
2. Work on laying foam blocks is started a week after concrete has been set of sufficient strength.
3. If the free area allows, it is better not to remove the metal fence. You can win 15-20 cm of usable area if you strengthen the masonry with reinforcement with thick metal bars
4. With the help of fittings, the parapet must also be additionally attached to the walls of the house. She is walled up between rows of foam blocks
5. It is better to lay the masonry not with an ordinary concrete solution, but with a special adhesive designed for cellular blocks. It will help reduce the thickness of the seam to 3 mm, protect against the loss of the solution and the appearance of cold bridges. Its cost is fully compensated by reducing the thickness of the seams
6. To lay out the first row, the glue must be diluted a little thicker - so that the spatula installed in it does not fall on its side
7. The place for masonry is marked in such a way that the center of the bricks falls on the attachment points of the window frame, that is, the distance from it to the edge of the balcony slab is 5 cm
8. To save space at the docking points with the parapet, the blocks are sawn
9. The wall must be strictly vertical. Therefore, the location of each row must be verified by the building level

When laying window frames on foam blocks, double-glazed windows must be additionally fixed to the walls of the building using a channel. Otherwise, with a strong wind load, the double-glazed windows may fall down.

Wall and ceiling insulation

Read also: [Instructions] How to make beautiful and unusual wall shelves with your own hands: for flowers, books, TV, kitchen or garage (100+ Photo Ideas & Videos) + Reviews

How to properly insulate a regular or brick balcony?

Installation of insulation is better to start from above, from the ceiling:

1. First, a waterproofing film is laid in such a way that overlaps form. It is necessary to fasten the strips together with construction tape or a stapler. It is also necessary to make an overlap of 15 cm on the walls
2. When laying rolled heat insulators, preliminary installation will be required wooden crate. Sheet insulation can be attached directly to the adhesive
3. Since the main load will fall on the crate (it must withstand the weight of the insulation, as well as facing material), wooden bars should be fixed to the ceiling with self-tapping screws of sufficient length
4. So that the laths of the crate do not deform during temperature changes, leave a gap of 5-10 mm between them and the walls. It is mounted to the ceiling with self-tapping screws. For this, holes are pre-prepared in it.
5. Plates or rolled material must be laid tightly, without gaps. The pitch of the crate should be slightly larger (10 millimeters) than the size of the insulation sheets. Otherwise, you will not be able to lay the material evenly.
6. A more reliable option is to combine penoplex with penofol with an air gap between them of 2 cm in size.
7. All gaps between the insulation boards are filled with foam
8. The next layer is a vapor barrier made of polyethylene film or special membrane materials. It is not necessary to use it only if foil materials are used for insulation.
9. Next, a second layer of 10 mm crate is laid, on which it will be attached finishing material. Such a gap will serve additional protection from the accumulation of condensate
10. Even moisture-resistant drywall on the balcony can warp over time. Therefore, use gypsum boards for sheathing. Moreover, they cost no more than drywall. You can also sheathe a balcony from the inside with plywood or clapboard
11. Laying insulation on the walls differs little from installing insulation on the ceiling

Floor insulation

Read also:

Since insulation under the screed significantly increases the weight of the structure, the most common way to insulate the floor is to insulate the joists.

So, a detailed step-by-step instruction:

1. After the installation of the waterproofing layer, a wooden beam is attached to the concrete floor (its section size is 50x50 mm). The width of the bars is selected depending on the thickness of the insulation
2. The tree is pre-treated with a primer with an antiseptic or coated with drying oil
3. The logs are placed across the balcony in such a way that a distance of 50-70 mm remains from the walls. Such a technological gap will not allow the bars to warp during temperature changes and changes in linear dimensions.
4. To ensure normal water flow, the balcony slab is always made at a slight slope. . Therefore, the lags must first be aligned. To do this, thin wooden bars or pieces of plywood are placed under them. To obtain a strictly horizontal surface, the floors are leveled with a building level.
5. alignment concrete screed having a significant mass, in the case of a balcony it is highly not recommended . After all, this will require a significant amount of solution
6. A layer of heat insulator is tightly laid between the lags. When using foil materials, they are placed with the foil down.
7. The next layer is vapor barrier. She is spread with an overlap on the walls
8. When laying underfloor heating, a small layer of cement screed is poured over the film
9. If warm floors are not provided, a layer of chipboard is laid on the floor in a checkerboard pattern (with offset seams), and then a floor covering, for example, ceramic tiles, laminate or linoleum. It is better not to lay plywood on the floor, as over time such a floor will begin to creak strongly

In conclusion of the article, I would like to give some important tips from professionals.

1. Do not try to bring central heating radiators to the balcony. This is strictly prohibited. If such a violation is detected, you will be forced to dismantle them. For heating, use only electrical appliances: oil, infrared heaters or underfloor heating with electric heating
2. It’s not always worth listening to the advice of programs like “Repair Schools”. When combining a balcony with a warm room, disagreements with regulatory organizations may arise. If they consider that in this way you have worsened the heat supply of your neighbors, you can be forced to bring the apartment back to its previous form, as well as pay a hefty fine.
3. Legally demolished balcony door, the window unit is considered a redevelopment, therefore it requires special permission. But, since the interpretation of the law in this case is ambiguous, in some cases it is still possible to obtain such permission with high-quality insulation of the balcony
4. fashionable last years frameless glazing Looks very decorative on the outside, but warm balconies, loggias it does not fit. Use thermally insulated double or triple glazing or lift-slide windows for insulation
5. Close the joints carefully before insulating walls, ceilings, floors, as well as gaps with mounting foam or polyurethane sealant
6. Any wooden elements be sure to treat the skins with antiseptics and materials that protect them from moisture
7. Installation of insulation start from the ceiling, then proceed to the insulation of walls, floors
8. The ideal option for thermal insulation is a two-layer cake with an air gap. Use materials of small thickness for this (foam or penofol)
9. Polyurethane foam under the influence of ultraviolet light quickly darkens, becoming unusable. Therefore, protect its outer layer with sealant, putty or paint.
10. Gypsum putty is afraid of moisture, therefore it is not used for sealing seams
11. To protect the room from the formation of condensate, take care of reliable waterproofing. In its absence, fungus and mold will certainly appear in the skin.
12. To demolish a balcony door, you will need a special permit.

And in the end, we invite you to watch a video about the complex insulation of the balcony

PHOTO GALLERY

8.3 Total Score

Balcony insulation from the inside

Feedback from our readers is very important to us. If you do not agree with these ratings, leave your rating in the comments with the reasoning for your choice. Thank you for your participation. Your opinion will be useful to other users.

Ease of implementation

Appearance

Convenience

This will interest you:

The better to insulate the loggia from the inside: step by step instructions and tips = professionals. From a constructive point of view, the loggia is ideal for becoming a continuation of the apartment or even a full-fledged room. To accomplish this, a series of construction and installation works on glazing should be carried out, and.

As a result, you can get a spacious living room, a cozy room for relaxation, or even extra bed for the work space.

If you do not take into account important factors when choosing materials, the result of insulation may not turn out as you would like, so let's look at which materials are best for insulating a loggia, and what technology should be used for insulation.

Factor number 1 - the purpose of the premises

Factor number 2 - the dimensions of the loggia

Since if you have a small size, then you will need to give preference to a heater, which, with a small thickness, has a high rate of thermal protection. In this case, you will lose the usable area to a minimum.

Factor # 3 - throughput of the material

keep in mind that each material from which the walls inside the room are made has the ability to pass accumulated moisture. This is water vapor that collides with cold air from the street and settles outside on the wall. If you have insulated the wall, it means that the main insulation will be covered, and this will lead to further decay and decrease in properties. It is important to make sure that the steam simply does not reach the heater.

Insulation materials

On the construction market, you can find a lot of materials to insulate the loggia, the characteristics of which are important to familiarize yourself with before starting construction and installation work. What needs to be done?

Mineral wool, as well as materials based on cotton wool or basalt fiber, are quite popular materials with excellent thermal insulation, fire resistance and. When used, these materials perfectly retain their structure, appearance and shape, and also do not succumb to the negative effects of the environment and microorganisms, but the downside is that they are highly hygroscopic. Because of this water permeability, thorough waterproofing is necessary. The disadvantages include the need to create and the thickness of the material, which adversely affects the usable area.

What is the best way to insulate the loggia from the inside? Styrofoam, which is obtained from polystyrene. It is not chosen in vain, as it is durable, has a low level of thermal conductivity, has a low level of hydrophobicity and is resistant to microorganisms. For insulation from the inside, it is advised to use self-extinguishing foam, since the usual view is highly combustible.

In the role of a heater in the loggia, materials that are made of extruded polyethylene and covered with foil on one or both sides are also suitable: Isocom, Isolon, Penofol, Tepofol. Among the listed heat insulators, this type of thermal conductivity is the highest, therefore it is used as an independent material for insulation only with “cold” insulation or as a reflective material on internal walls.

But the small thickness and high level of vapor permeability makes it possible to use it as a second layer of insulation.

I would like to separately talk about the material that is produced in the form of plates or rolls. This is polyurethane foam - it is sprayed like foam and creates a heat-insulating surface. It surpasses all the above materials in terms of technical indicators. But he also has a drawback - a high level of flammability with the release of toxic agents. Do-it-yourself installation is not possible, as a special installation for spraying is needed.

Stages of warming the loggia

When you have finally decided how best to insulate the loggia, you need to carry out a series of preparatory work:

• Sealing of all cracks between the walls and the frame / parapet, glazing.
• Preparation of the necessary surfaces.

For glazing, you can safely choose double-glazed windows with a frame of any material. They must be functional, be sure to be ventilated and relatively light so that you do not create an additional load on the floor slab. The ceiling, walls and floor must be cleaned in advance of debris and other contaminants, and the integrity of the surface must be checked. If you find tile gaps or, they must be filled with sealant and, if necessary, leveled.

In addition to these procedures, it is also necessary to carry out waterproofing. For this, several materials are used, but sometimes one, since waterproofing is carried out for parapets and external walls, frames, ceilings and floors.

Such materials include:

• Penofol.
• Folgoizolone.
• Paints and coatings.
• Penetrating waterproofing.

Waterproofing roll type must be glued overlapping to the base, and the resulting seams should be sealed with sealant, soldered or sealed with special adhesive tape. If you use foil isolon for coating, you get an additional layer of thermal insulation. When using paint, coating and penetrating types of insulation, it will be justified if you are engaged in insulation in hard-to-reach places and where the size of the room is very small.

After you have decided on the material for waterproofing and are ready to insulate the loggia, you can proceed to the insulation itself. There are two ways:

• You can make a continuous layer of material for thermal insulation and in this way you minimize any chances of steam entering the insulation.
• Insulation and coating.

Loggia insulation methods

Method number 1

In this option, we will use materials with a low level of vapor permeability - styrofoam and polystyrene. The thickness of such materials should be such that, when created, the necessary resistance to the passage of steam is obtained, and thermal insulation is observed.

When using conventional tile insulation, the installation steps are as follows:

Reinforcement can be carried out in 4 stages:

1. Tiles are treated with coarse-grained sandpaper.
2. The plates are covered with glue, its thickness for a long time to be no more than 0.3 cm.
3. A grid with 5 * 5 cells is pressed into the glue.
4. On top of the mesh you need to apply another layer of glue.

You can still use rolled thermal insulation materials, and at the same time the laying technology will be the same. In this case, you should cut off pieces of insulation of the size you need. After that, we get a surface that is completely ready for painting or plastering, as well as for pasting with liquid wallpaper and other decorative materials.

Method number 2

In this method, there are no restrictions on choice, since thanks to the technology, the creation of a vapor barrier between the finish and the insulation is provided. This type of insulation is carried out by arranging a wooden crate (but it is possible without it), but in this case, to fasten the lining and the crate, they are made on top of the vapor barrier.

A crate is made of wooden beams, but metal fasteners or a profile can also be used for this. If you use metal parts, you should definitely lay insulation under them.

The width and height of the crate depend on what material was chosen for the insulation of the loggia:

• If you will be using mineral wool, choose boards that are narrower than the mats so that the laying is spaced apart.
• Ideally, you need to lay several layers of wool so that the bars are covered, and then they will not act as conductors of cold.
• When using foam, all sizes of sheets and beams must be the same.

After the laying is done, we overlap to fasten the vapor barrier material. It can also be a simple polyethylene, a membrane. All joints should be sealed with adhesive tape. If you did the insulation without a crate, then profiles should be attached from above to install the finish.

Avoid These 5 Loggia Planning Mistakes

And as a reminder, we want to point out a list of common mistakes many people have made. We will help you find out exactly what mistakes and how to avoid them.

Mistake No. 1: redevelopment without permission

Often people think about the best way to insulate a loggia, but few people think that your decision to make one large room out of a loggia and a room should be registered by representatives of the BTI. This measure is necessary so that you do not have problems with the sale of the apartment in the future, when you find discrepancies with the real apartment and the technical passport.

Advice: it is possible to glaze the balcony using sliding double-glazed windows on an aluminum profile and thus equip an unheated summer loggia. This measure will add extra space to you, there will be less drafts, and you will not need to take permission to redevelop.

Mistake number 2: removal of the radiator to the loggia

If you have a permit for conversion, then you are unlikely to decide on such a step, but just in case, you should warn that the withdrawal of radiator pipes and heating equipment is unacceptable. There are too many heat losses on the loggia, and sometimes, even with insulation, the pipes freeze, which causes accidents. In addition, because of this, you will have to pay extra for heat supply.

Advice: for heating, use a floor heating system or oil as an alternative - it can be hung on the wall or used as a conventional battery.

Mistake number 3: dimensionless glass

This design solution looks great - when closed, it is a smooth surface, and sometimes it is not disturbed even by edges. In addition, it is convenient to assemble such sashes into an accordion, and this will not occupy the space of the loggia. But for insulated rooms this is not an option - single glazing and cracks will not protect from the cold. In addition, dirt and dust quickly accumulate on them, as well as fingerprints, and there is no way to attach a mosquito net.

Advice: do not stop only at this option - we advise you to take a closer look at latest developments like thermally insulated lift-sliding windows. But the ideal choice would be a PVC double-glazed window with hinged doors. They do not take up as much space as it seems, it is possible to open them for ventilation, as well as open them to clean the glass surface from the outside.

Mistake No. 4: glazing on brackets

To increase the area, or rather, the volume of the loggia, apartment owners often want to build a frame for glazing (remote by a couple of tens of cm). So, a visor is made along the upper perimeter, on which snow will accumulate, and in bad weather, the sound of rain will be heard. The main thing is that a glass build-up will form on the facade, which will spoil the appearance of the structure.

Advice: an alternative option is available only with facade uniformity. If all the balconies in your house are open, you should discard such an idea, or even simple glazing. You can ennoble the loggia with the help of greenery.

Mistake #5: Sealant Abuse

The real nightmare of a perfectionist is the seams with bubbling polyurethane foam. They are ugly, and they can also spoil the microclimate of your apartment - the fact is that with polyurethane sealants, the foam cannot tolerate exposure to sunlight and moisture, and without protection it will quickly collapse, thereby opening all the sealed cracks and gaps for street noise and drafts.

Advice: the “foamed” seams should be well processed and the excess cut off, and then sanded with a thin sandpaper and covered with a layer of putty or acrylate paint (ideally, both options should be used). If there is no paint or putty at hand, use mounting tape, but then in the future paint will not adhere well to such seams.

Results

As you can see, the process of warming the loggia itself is simple. It is very important to follow the instructions and recommendations that will help create a warm loggia.