Roofing on a country house is a crucial moment. Mistakes here are fraught with significant material and monetary losses, and living in a house with a bad roof is truly painful. But troubles of this kind can be avoided if you take design and execution responsibly. The ability to install the roof on your own, without trusting hired specialists, can help with this.
How to mount a roof with your own hands
The device of a reliable roofing system on a country house is the final chord of the cycle of measures for its construction. Then there are only Finishing work to achieve your dreams.
Getting to the device of the roof on the house, you need to clearly understand its purpose.
- Reliable shelter of the building from the vicissitudes of the weather, which does not allow leaks.
- Thermal protection of the interior even at the lowest possible outdoor temperatures for this area.
- A harmonious arrangement of the shape and color scheme of the finish coating, corresponding to the exterior of the building frame and the landscape of the site and giving them additional charm.
Photo gallery: roofs made of various materials
A classic four-pitched metal roof can last up to 50 years 
A properly arranged multi-pitched roof will be reliable and durable, despite the large number of joints and junctions 
Copper roofing materials are an indicator of the taste and wealth of the owner of the house and serve for more than 100 years 
Natural tiles require reinforced sheathing, but they last a very long time and look impressive and attractive. 
soft tiles you can cover the roof of any complexity
Is it possible to install a roof with your own hands
In order to objectively understand and correctly assess your capabilities, you need to learn how to perform the following operations using various sources.
- Display the structure of the roof of the house at the level of at least the draft design.
- Calculate the need for materials for the rafter system, roofing pie and topcoat.
- Determine the Mauerlat installation scheme in order to distribute the loads from the roof to the walls as much as possible and securely fasten the truss system.
- Choose the optimal angle of inclination of the slopes.
- Calculate the pitch of the rafters.
- Assess the need for additional metal fasteners roof frame.
- To study the purpose of the crate and counter-crate and the rules for their installation.
- Clearly represent the order of installation of the layers of the roofing pie of the insulated roof.
- Understand the principles of selection and location of the roof finish, as well as methods of its fastening.
- Know the nomenclature and purpose of additional elements of the roof and the procedure for their installation.
As you can see, this far from complete list implies a rather serious preliminary training on theoretical questions. Next, you need to take care of the tool for the production of work. His set does not include anything special - these are, as a rule, ordinary manual and electrical devices that are available in the household of almost any owner country house.
But most importantly, you need to assess the level of your own skills in performing carpentry and roofing. We note at once that purely theoretical knowledge is clearly not enough here. It is advisable to take part in such events several times in order to see the working methods and ways of performing individual operations, as well as their sequence.
Video: gable roof - how to make it easy and simple
Stages of roof installation
The installation of the truss system begins with the attachment of a support device called a Mauerlat.
Mauerlat installation
In private suburban construction mauerlat is a bar made of coniferous wood with a section of 150x100 or 150x150 mm. It performs two important functions.
- Uniform distribution of the load from the upper structure of the building to its walls.
- Formation of the base for fastening the elements of the truss system.
Thus, the mauerlat is the link between the frame of the house and its roofing system. It is laid on load-bearing walls and fastened in various ways:
- linking with wire ties, pre-laid into the walls during their laying;
The wire can be immured into the wall during its laying or inserted into specially drilled holes later.
- fastening with studs to the armored belt, if such is provided for by the design of the house;
The studs are inserted and tied to the reinforcement cage before the concrete is poured.
- installation of a mauerlat with fixation to the wall with brackets using bookmarks made of wood laid during masonry.
If in brick wall lay when laying wooden inserts, you can attach a Mauerlat to them using metal brackets
These are the main ways of attaching the supporting base to the walls of the house.
Installation of the truss system
For the manufacture of the roof frame, various materials are used:
- a bar made of coniferous wood with transverse dimensions of 150x50 mm. For small house even material with a section of 100x50 mm will be enough;
- wooden glued profiles in the form of an I-beam or a beam;
- metal profiles such as rectangular pipes or beams with a transverse dimension up to 150 mm;
- plastic profiles of various sections.
The choice of material depends on its price and availability on the market. It should be noted that wood and metal need additional anti-corrosion (for metal) or antiseptic and fire-prevention (for wood) surface treatment.
The truss system is mounted in several ways.
- Assembly directly at the installation site. The material is fed to the roof and already there, focusing on the place, the parts are produced and installed. This installation procedure allows you to continuously monitor the quality of the assembly and make the necessary adjustments in a timely manner.
One of the ways to install the truss system is to assemble it on site.
- Assembly at the bottom on a specially installed slipway. The first pair is assembled according to the drawing with careful observance of all dimensions. Subsequent rafter legs are made using the first piece as a template. Upon completion of work, a set of rafter legs is supplied to the installation site and installed there. The trusses assembled at the bottom usually include two rafters and an upper puff. This configuration provides form stability and the weight of the products available for manual lifting.
If the roof trusses are small, they can be assembled completely on the ground
- Installation of a truss system from ready-made trusses. They are ordered at specialized enterprises according to their own drawings. Delivery and (at the request of the customer) installation is carried out by the contractor's personnel. To assemble the truss system in this way, as a rule, lifting equipment is used, but the quality is guaranteed.
If roof trusses are ordered in production, they will be made perfectly accurately and with high quality.
Video: assembling rafters on the ground
Roofing pie device
The roofing cake is formed in the process of roof insulation. The question is natural - why is it necessary? It has been established that up to 25–30% of the heat received from the heating system in the house escapes through an uninsulated roof. A simple calculation shows that the costs incurred for the insulation of the upper building will pay off quickly. In addition, an uninsulated roof produces a lot of noise during rainfall, especially if it is made of metal profiles. The roofing cake, in addition to the function of insulation, successfully copes with noise absorption.
The insulating device for the roof is formed from several layers, each of which performs a specific function.
The roofing cake of an insulated roof consists of several layers laid in a strictly defined order.
vapor barrier
The purpose of the vapor barrier is to prevent moisture from the air coming from the living quarters from entering the under-roof space. The fact is that one of the layers of the roofing cake is a heater, which is a fibrous material. Moisture can accumulate in the capillaries of the insulation array, which leads to its clumping and loss of basic functional properties.
To prevent this process, diffusion films are used. They are covered with microscopic holes that can pass moisture in only one direction. Therefore, when properly positioned relative to the insulation, the film protects it from external moisture, while simultaneously releasing water molecules from the inside and thus drying it.
The roofing cake begins to take shape with the installation of a vapor barrier
An effective way to use vapor barrier films for pitched roofs is to place them directly on top of the insulation. Such a device allows you to use the entire length of the rafters for insulation. But for this it is necessary to hermetically connect the individual canvases, for which adhesive tape is used.
The most popular are three-layer films made of polypropylene "Yutafol D Standard", "Yutafol D Silver" and "Yutafol D Special". For ease of installation, a colored strip is applied along the edges of the film, indicating the amount of overlap during installation. For slopes with a slope of less than 20 o, its value should be 20 cm, for steeper roofs - 10 cm. Flooring is made along the roof, starting from the bottom rows.
The release form of vapor barrier films is rolls up to 1.5 m wide and 10 m long.
insulation
When a person hears the word "roof", he creates an association with warmth and comfort in the room. This is possible only if the right insulation material is selected. The purpose of this layer is not to heat the roof, but to keep the heat generated in the house, so the key to success is its correct choice, which largely depends on the design of the roof. Otherwise General requirements to all types of this material are almost the same.
The decisive factor is the thickness of the insulation. The rules for its determination are given in SNiP 23.02.2003 "Thermal protection of buildings". In accordance with this document, it is possible to obtain the value of the thermal resistance of the structure, determined by regional coefficients, depending on climatic conditions. Using the data on the thermal conductivity of the material (certificate indicator), you can determine the thickness of the insulation in meters.
According to the types of materials, the insulation is classified as follows.
- Expanded polystyrene - the made foam plastic which is let out in plates. Has a low specific gravity and thermal conductivity. It is laid, as a rule, in several layers with overlapping joints. Used for thermal insulation flat roofs, its service life is determined by manufacturers at 50 years.
Styrofoam boards are commonly used to insulate flat roofs.
- Polyurethane foam - gas-filled plastic mass. Most often used for thermal insulation of roofs and attics. With low thermal conductivity and low weight, it has vapor barrier properties and has long term services.
- Mineral wool. Produced from natural natural materials, does not burn, perfectly saves heat. Moisture absorption is low, rodents do not live in it and bacteria and insects do not develop.
Mineral wool foil insulation has high thermal insulation properties due to the heat reflecting coating
- Glass wool. This is a kind of materials made from waste from the production of glass. Such a heater is not combustible, resistant to getting wet and does not support the vital activity of rodents.
In terms of manufacturability and price indicators, mineral wool is most often used for insulation, various modifications of which are suitable for pitched and flat roofs. The most commonly used materials are Knauf (glass wool slabs) and Rockwool (mineral wool), which have long gained popularity among consumers.
Also popular roll insulation"Isover" Finnish production. He appeared on the Russian market one of the first and still enjoys well-deserved authority. It is applied both to roofs, and to walls.
Waterproofing
Moisture can get into the insulation layer not only from the internal space, but also from the outside. This occurs in cases where there are even small defects in the laying of the finish coating, as well as as a result of moisture condensation on it. inner surface. In addition, any vapor barrier protection does not give a full guarantee against the ingress of moisture into the insulation, so it must also be removed.
To protect against these adverse events, a layer of waterproofing is laid between the insulation and roofing material. Waterproofing films are of the following types.
Waterproofing films are rolled out perpendicular to the rafters from the bottom up. We remind you of some rules for its installation:
- the amount of overlap during laying should be 15-20 cm, some manufacturers have decided to designate the size of the overlap with color marking;
- all connections must be fastened with special perforated tape;
- the waterproofing film is fixed on the rafters with the help of a counter rail up to 50 mm thick with the formation of a gap for ventilation.
For a cold roof, it is better to use a budget version of a universal or diffusion film. Suitable brands such as "Yutafol D", "Izospan D", "Folder D" and others. You can buy more expensive products, but the ratio of price, quality and functionality will not be in their favor.
For an insulated roof or attic, you can use a universal or diffusion film of the same brands, but with a mandatory ventilation duct. Superdiffusion can be laid on any roof and with any type of insulation. Popular brands are "Folder", "Tyvek", "Yutavek", "Light", "Delta", "Vent" and others.
Finishing coatings for roofing
A variety of materials are used to cover roofs. However, the basic requirements for them remain unchanged.
- Tightness, providing complete protection of the interior from moisture and water in any of its manifestations.
- Quietness that protects the living space from sounds coming from the roof during heavy rainfall.
- Durability, allowing the roof to be used for at least 15, and in some cases up to 50 years. Some types of roofs (slate, ceramic tiles, copper) allow you to increase this period to hundreds of years or more.
- The total weight of the roofing system must correspond to the bearing capacity of the building frame and its foundation.
- The appearance of the roof should harmoniously fit into the exterior of the site and the house.
In private housing construction, metal roofing is quite popular.
- Decking. It is made of galvanized sheet metal 0.45–0.7 mm thick by profiling, coated with a layer of zinc in its commercial form. In some cases, a paintwork or plastic coating is applied to the surface, which increases the service life and appearance of the products.
- Metal tile. It is made from the same material by stamping in a form that imitates natural tiles. Such roofing is always supplied with an additional protective layer of resistant paint or plastic.
- Fake roof. It consists of smooth galvanized sheets connected with a special seam - a fold.
- Coatings from non-ferrous metals - aluminum and copper. They can be shaped like shingles or come in the form of flat sheets for seam roofs.
Photo gallery: varieties of metal roofing materials
A beautiful and durable roof for a building of any type is obtained from a metal tile. 
The roof of the house from corrugated board will be reliable, durable and inexpensive 
With the correct arrangement of the connecting seam, the seam roof lasts for several decades 
Roofing made of copper tiles is difficult to fit, but it looks very beautiful and lasts more than 100 years.
Other roofing materials are also used.
- Asbestos slate - not so long ago, he was the leader in the list of roofing materials. IN Lately its positions were supplanted by other types of materials. Today, slate is most often used to cover secondary buildings, although it has fairly high consumer properties.
Traditional asbestos slate is still a popular roofing material.
- Tiles are ceramic, molded from certain types of clay and fired in kilns. The material has high strength and is easy to install due to its small size. Its only drawback is its heavy weight, requiring a fairly solid foundation. Service life in some cases exceeds 50 years.
Traditional ceramic material allows you to get a beautiful, reliable and durable roof
- Cement-sand and concrete tiles are produced in formats close to ceramic counterparts and have similar mechanical and consumer properties. It can be dyed in various colors by adding dyes to the solution during the production process. A clear disadvantage of such material is its heavy weight.
Cement-sand tiles look very beautiful and serve for a long time, but require a powerful truss system due to the large weight
- Roof coverings made of composite materials, such as Shinglas tiles or ondulin, are made from cellulose with the addition of fibrous materials. In the production process, they are impregnated with polymer-bitumen compounds, which makes the material resistant to moisture and ultraviolet radiation. The advantage of this topcoat is its low weight. The service life is determined at least 30 years, although confirmation of this fact can be obtained a little later.
- For low-pitched and flat roofs, welded roofing from rolled materials is often used. The basis for their manufacture are polymer meshes or fiberglass. For installation, the lower surface of the web is heated with a gas-flame burner and glued to the prepared surface. Upper layer covered with a topping of granite, basalt or slate chips. The peculiarity is the need for regular inspection and maintenance of the roof to identify and eliminate damage. The service life of such roofs does not exceed 10 years. The main types of rolled materials on the Russian market are TechnoNIKOL, Uniflex, Bikrost.
Built-up roll materials commonly used for flat and low pitched roofs
- Liquid roofs - are made from molten bitumen or liquid rubber-type compounds by direct pouring onto the prepared surface. Distribution over the surface is carried out with special scrapers. The layer thickness should not exceed two millimeters. The result is a continuous coating without seams and joints.
The self-leveling roof is a continuous sealed roofing carpet
From among the purely natural materials for the finishing coating of roofs, one can distinguish such as shale, straw and reeds, as well as wooden shingles. They are rarely used and are not competitive in the market.
Features of installation of various types and roof units
The roof covering must have a number of important characteristics, which were mentioned above:
- tightness;
- sufficient strength;
- UV resistance;
- compliance with climatic conditions.
Flexible roof device
These conditions are fully met by flexible tiles, while being much cheaper than other materials. Before laying the shingles on the crate, geotextiles must be laid to organize high-quality drainage. The use of this coating is possible for buildings of any purpose and for any form of roofing.
The dimensions of the tile sheet are 1.0x0.33 m, it is made of fiberglass impregnated with polymer-bitumen compounds with the addition of various modifiers and plasticizers. The outer surface is covered with a protective layer of various kinds crumbs, which gives it immunity to ultraviolet radiation.
Video: installation of shingles
Hard roof device
Rigid roofs can be made from various materials:
- corrugated board;
- metal tile;
- slate;
- sheet coating in the form of galvanized or non-ferrous metals.
The installation process of the finish coating may look like this.
- Overhang formation. To do this, fillies (extensions) are stuffed along each rafter leg, the cord is pulled between the extreme ends and the fillies are trimmed along one line.
- Installation of waterproofing. The film is laid at a right angle to the rafters in the direction from the bottom up and fixed with counter-latticing bars.
- Lathing installation. It is laid from a board 25x100 or 25x150 mm. For profiled materials, the crate is made sparse. At the same time, at a distance of 400–500 mm from the ridge, it is continuous.
Under hard coatings, the crate is sparse everywhere, except for the area of \u200b\u200bthe ridge and valleys
- Finishing coat. It is made from any corner of the roof also in the direction from the bottom up. The amount of overlap is calculated in advance, it should not be less than recommended for the type of coating used. First, shelter is performed with the first row until the ridge is reached, after which the installation of the second and subsequent rows begins in the same order. Coating materials are fastened in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations.
- Installation of ridge slats and design of overhangs.
For filing cornice overhangs, it is best to use plastic or metal spotlights with perforations for ventilation of the under-roof space
Each coating has its own mounting methods and appropriate fasteners. Additional elements of the roof are installed during installation.
Video: do-it-yourself metal profile installation
Installation of a cold roof
Installing a cold roof on a house is appropriate in areas where temperature differences are small, and heating season short This performs the following operations.
Installation of roofing accessories
Roof accessories include the following products.
- Snow guards. They are fences in the form of barriers made of profile metal to retain snow on the roof slopes. Their purpose is to prevent spontaneous descent of snow masses, as a result of which injury to people is possible. Snow guards are attached to the roof finish on special stands. For metal tiles, these parts have a special shape.
Snow guards prevent spontaneous snow from falling off the roof in winter
- Stationary roof ladders. They are attached to the wall of the house (vertical part) and fixed on the ridge (pitched part). They are used when inspecting the roof, performing current repairs, as well as for servicing chimneys.
Roof ladders are designed for safe climbing to and from the roof.
- Roof skates. They are included in the package of delivery of the finishing coating, designed for installation at the intersection of roof slopes.
- Roof walkways, which, like ladders, are necessary for moving along the roof during inspections, repairs and other operations at height.
Roof walkways ensure safe work at heights
- Roof railings. They are installed along the perimeter of the slopes and are designed to prevent people from falling during work on the roof. They are used on the roofs of houses with two floors and above.
Roof gutters
Gutters are an important part of the roof structure, as their function is to collect water from the roof, including rain, melt and condensate. They are installed between water intake funnels.
There are two ways to install gutters.
- Hanging gutters are mounted on top of the cornice paintings on special hooks.
- Wall-mounted mounted on brackets attached to the wall.
Work on the installation of gutters is carried out after the completion of the design of overhangs. Regardless of the installation method, the gutters work equally well on roofs with any slope angle.
Video: installing gutters
Typical mistakes when installing a roof
Inexperienced builders often make mistakes that can later lead to significant costs.
- The absence of an armored belt over the walls of foam concrete blocks. Consequences - as a result of moistening of foam concrete and the impact of concentrated loads from the truss system, the wall is destroyed at the reference points, the roof warps with a violation of the tightness of the coating.
- Ignoring the need to attach the rafter legs to the Mauerlat. As a result of the impact of wind loads, the roof structure can be shifted or carried away at extreme values of the impact. Violated the requirements of paragraphs 5.1 and 7.1 of SNiP 31.02.2001.
- Incorrect arrangement or lack of ventilation ducts. Ventilation is necessary for rooms with high air humidity - toilets, bathrooms, kitchens, etc. In its absence, the development of fungal and putrefactive formations that contribute to the destruction of the supporting structures of the house is possible. In addition, it negatively affects the health of residents.
- Incorrect execution of the places where the rafter legs rest on the Mauerlat due to the lack of a support platform in the form of an oblique cut. As a result, there is an uncontrolled displacement of the rafter legs and deformation of the entire rafter system. There is a violation of paragraphs 5.9 and 6.16 of SNiP II-25-80. The consequences are the displacement of the rafter legs and the destruction of the roof completely.
- No rafters. Their purpose is to create a rigid triangle in roof trusses. In the absence of puffs, the roof moves apart and collapses. Ceiling transfers can be used as these elements.
This list can be continued for a long time. It is necessary to understand one circumstance - it is necessary to strictly comply with the requirements of the agreed and approved project.
When planning work on arranging the roof, you need to take care of the problems that may arise during its operation.
- Purchase some spare fasteners so that you can replace damaged parts.
- Buy a small can of paint of the appropriate color to repair damage to the protective layer.
- For the first time after installation, at least once a month, inspect the roof surface for damage. Detected defects must be eliminated immediately, preventing their development. This is especially true for poured and built-up roofs.
In order for the operation of the roof to be long and trouble-free, it needs constant attention, as well as a small repair kit for timely intervention if necessary.
In principle, there is nothing super complicated in installing a roof with your own hands. You just need to know the basic rules for performing work and clearly understand the mechanics of the roofing system. It is important to start right, that is, to create a draft design. After that, it is necessary to show it to a specialist designer and eliminate all comments. It should also be understood that self-manufacturing of the roof does not mean doing all the work alone.
Roof design begins with the collection of loads. It is necessary to calculate the total weight of one square meter of the entire roof structure. To do this, you must first draw the drawings of the roof and calculate the snow and wind load according to the area where construction is underway.
In order to correctly collect the load, you need to know the specific gravity of all materials that are used for the construction of the roof, from the type of wood to the type of insulation and outer coating. These data are necessary for the correct selection of the pitch of the rafter legs. The greater the load, the smaller the distance should be between the rafters.
The maximum distance that is allowed between the rafters should not exceed 1200 mm. The optimal distance is one meter. Next, you should choose the cross section of the beam.
To calculate the roof structure, there is a special algorithm from a variety of formulas, but all of them are intended only for analyzing the construction of large industrial buildings. For private construction, the process of selecting a section can be simplified.
The height of the beam is calculated from the maximum length of the rafter leg. 1/20 of the length will be optimal height timber. But 1/3 of the resulting height - this will be the required width of the timber. The result is a robust system that can withstand heavy loads.
IN wooden house the upper strapping beam for the frame house will serve as a support for the rafters. IN brick house along the upper edge of the masonry, a Mauerlat must be installed - a horizontal powerful bar that is attached to the wall with crutches.
A do-it-yourself roof is built in a few days, if you plan the whole process correctly. At the junction of two different materials, for example, brick and wood, it is always necessary to lay waterproofing. Instructions for the construction of the roof begins with the correct laying of the supporting beams. Then inclined rafters are installed at an angle, which is provided for in the project.
To fix the rafters, slopes and strapping boards are installed as part of the crate. The fastening of all rafters into a single structure is done wooden roof sustainable. At this stage, it is important to accurately align the position of the rafter legs, they must be in the same plane, strictly in the correct design position.
After fixing the rafter legs, a crate is stuffed, which is a series of boards with certain step, then the final coating will be attached to them. If the roof is provided from soft materials, the crate is made of a solid type from plywood sheets. In all other cases, it is enough to nail the elements of the crate at a certain distance from each other.
After that, protective materials (insulation and vapor barrier) are laid and the final roofing is installed. In some cases, insulation is done inside the structure after the installation of the roofing material. The rafter roof must be ventilated to ensure a normal microclimate for structures and their durability.
Any work can be divided into stages. So, do-it-yourself roof step by step.
First step. Make a calculation of the roof, collect the load, determine the cross section of the beam, its length. Be sure to summarize all the data in the material consumption specification.
Second step. Prepare all essential tool, purchase material, prepare a place for storage. Consider a mechanism for feeding heavy structures to the roof. On the day of work, you may need to hire a truck crane.
Third step. Prepare the surface for work. Start installing the power plate, strapping beam and rafter legs. Carefully check the design position of the rafters. At the end of the working day, make sure that the working structure is securely fastened.
Fourth step. Submission of batten boards. Fastening the battens and laying protective materials under the roof. At this stage, you will have to do a lot of cutting work. It is difficult and long to work with a hacksaw, so you need to rent a parquet or jigsaw.
Fifth step. Installation of roofing material, checking joints. Here after graduation installation work, the box can be hemmed to exclude wind pressure from the side of the wall under the cover structure.
A gable sloping roof significantly improves the functionality of the attic space. A conventional gable roof creates a dead space with an inclined plane in which one cannot stand in full height.
A gable sloping roof expands the space due to the special design of the kink of the inclined plane. Thus, a full-fledged interior space is obtained, which can be equipped as a bedroom.
According to the drawings, such a roof of the house is built by installing strictly vertical racks and horizontal puffs, and hanging and layered rafters are lined up on the sides of the impromptu rectangle. To provide the structure with the necessary strength, struts are installed from the floor beam to the middle of the layered rafters.
All other work is performed similarly to the scheme described above. The main difficulty in building a gable sloping roof structure is to choose the right cross-section of the beam and install all the elements according to the drawing. In most cases, insulation and vapor barrier are added to the roofing cake. This greatly complicates the process of installing a rafter roof, but without these elements it makes no sense to make an attic room.
For a private house, it is preferable to choose pitched roof, which has a slope greater than 2.5%. The simplest option is shed roof, but this is used only on utility-type structures. The design of the character is one flat, sloping roof plane that rests on the two side walls of the building.
A gable roof is considered universal, which rests on two outer walls at the same level, and the inclined planes converge in the middle into one ridge knot. The end part of such a roof is called a gable and is usually sealed with the same material from which the load-bearing part of the house is built.
The hip roof is a hipped roof without a gable. On all sides of the building, the roof is reduced from the upper edge of the wall upwards. Such a roof is better than others adapted to perceive wind and snow loads, but it is quite difficult to build. All nodes of the roof frame must be built in compliance with the complex laws of the statics of structures.
A hipped roof looks something like a hip roof, but its main difference is that all four roof planes are strictly triangular in shape. As a result, from the center of the building, the inclined planes diverge in four directions, forming a tent.
broken line or mansard roof is the creation of broken roof planes at an obtuse angle. The result is a rather voluminous attic-type room, which can be used as a residential one.
All types of roofs have their advantages and disadvantages. Some look better, but require significant construction costs, others are easy to build, but also unpresentable in appearance. Roof selection is usually made after determining the snow and wind area. It is important to agree on the type of roof at the design stage.
In fact, the construction of the roof of a frame house is no different from the construction of a roof for other types of buildings. The only point concerns the fixing of the rafter legs on the supporting structures. Here, instead of a Mauerlat, a strapping beam is used.
All other methods are similar. For the convenience of construction, before starting it is necessary to build a raised floor or mount a full-fledged wooden floor. Installing rafters from scaffolds is inconvenient and time consuming.
For a frame house, it is recommended to choose the least massive roof structure so that it does not create critical pressure on load-bearing elements. Do not build on additional elements on the roof, including dormer windows, if they are not provided in advance in the project.
Roof with your own hands. Design
Depending on the roof structure, the amount of materials and the cross section of the support bars should be selected. For a private house, especially frame type, the most effective gable and gable sloping roof. All other structures are quite complex and require a large number of retaining elements, which significantly increase the weight of the entire roof.
For a frame house, it is better not to use natural ceramic tiles as a coating. In addition to the fact that it is very heavy, for installation you will need to fill the crate thickly. As a result, it will be necessary to additionally strengthen the supporting racks or reduce the step between them, which will lead to an overrun of materials.
The support beam serves to fasten the rafters at the bottom. It is not advisable to rest the rafters on the wall, therefore, an additional beam is used, which perceives the inclined load and transfers it to the supporting structures strictly vertically.
As a support beam, a beam of a sufficiently large section should be used. It must be firmly fixed to the wall. In the case when the roof, together with the supporting beam, simply lies on the wall, the roof can be blown up by the wind. Despite the large weight of the entire roof, it can fly away with heavy gusts of wind.
Its advantages include the possibility of saving on roofing material and scaffolding, ease and speed of erection, low weight.
Disadvantages: not very attractive appearance and lack of an attic or its small size.
- gable- much more popular than single-sided.
Its obvious advantages are relatively low weight (compared, for example, with a four-hinged one), a fairly large attic space, the possibility of arranging an attic in the under-roof space, as well as an attractive, harmonious appearance. This type of roof is heated by the sun's rays from both sides.
The roof does not have any particular disadvantages. One can only point to its relatively heavy weight and greater consumption of building materials than in construction. pitched roof.
For a gable roof, you need a ridge (one-pitched roof does not need it) and gutters to drain rainwater.
- hipped roof
This type of roof is not very popular, since its construction is quite complicated and certain skills are required to build a hipped roof with your own hands.
The obvious advantages of this type of roof include its aesthetic appearance, a large attic space. The possibility of four-sided heating makes the attic very warm.
Among the disadvantages of this type, one should indicate its large weight and, as already mentioned, the complexity of construction work.
- Combined roof
An ideal choice for a multi-level building or a structure that is not quite rectangular in shape. It looks quite original, besides, it harmoniously fits into almost any area.
A combined type roof is much easier to build, since it can be built in separate sections: at the first stage of work, cover a terrace located on the second floor under one slope; then build a gable roof over the bedrooms; at the next stage, cover the protruding section of the kitchen on the ground floor, etc.
On the picture different types roofs: 1 - single-sided; 2 - gable; 3 - broken line or attic; 4 - hip (four-slope); 5 - tent; 6 - multi-forceps.
There is also a hipped roof, which consists of four identical slopes in the form of isosceles triangles; the roof of Sudeikin and others.
With all the variety of types of roofs, their construction is based on several basic principles. Having caught them, you can independently build even the most complex roof.
The entire construction process is divided into several main stages. So, we will learn how to build a roof with our own hands.
Mauerlat mount
The foundation, which takes on the main part of the load, is the Mauerlat. The whole roof is built on it. Beams with a section of 15x15 cm are used. They are installed parallel to the roof ridge.
For the strength of the roof and resistance to adverse weather conditions, the Mauerlat beams should be securely fastened, and this must be taken care of already when laying the walls.
For this purpose, a strong thick rope is laid between the blocks (bricks) at a distance of 1 meter, starting from the fourth floor. It's called katanka.
The middle part of the wire must be fixed in the brickwork, and the ends should be left hanging down. Their length should be sufficient for the subsequent tying of the timber. If plastering is planned, then the outer end of the wire will need to be mounted in the solution.
Photo: fastening the Mauerlat with wire twist
Mauerlat should recede from the edge of the wall by at least 10 cm. To protect the beams from decay, it is necessary to lay roofing layers under them.
Frame installation
To ensure sufficient strength of the roof, it is necessary to take care of the frame. The frame of the house is the rafters attached to the Mauerlat.
It should be borne in mind that with a beam length of more than 4.5 cm, it will be necessary to additionally mount the runs. Optimal size beams consider a section of 7x15 cm.
The rafters are attached to the Mauerlat using a special cutout, fixed with 20 cm nails. Kill them like this:
- the first is driven diagonally through the rafter into the mahuelat;
- the second is nailed in a similar way on the reverse side;
- the third nail is hammered perpendicularly from above.
Thanks to this technology, the rafter is firmly attached and does not move.
The upper part of the overlapping beams is attracted to each other in such a way that the edge of one beam overlaps the end of the other (parallel). They are fastened with nails or bolts.
Roof reinforcement
To reduce the impact of the expansion force on the Mauerlat and increase the strength of the roof, the rafter legs must be fastened together using beams with a cross section of 5x15 cm.
This structural detail is called the "crossbar".
So, the size of the crossbar and the distance between the rafters to be connected correspond to each other. Fastening should be done with nails.
It is also necessary to take care of fastening to each rafter leg of the filly, which is a board with a section of 50x100 cm. It is fixed with metal brackets and screws to one side of the rafter leg.
Its length is calculated in the following way: 50 cm are added to the length of the overhang.
To avoid difficulties, you need to think in advance about harvesting filly. To do this, a cutout is made on the board, the width of which is 15 cm, with which it is attached to the Mauerlat.
Particular attention should be paid to ensuring that the boards and rafters converge exactly. It is better to complete all these works before the construction of the truss system begins, so that then you can simply assemble the entire structure.
On this stage you also need to choose the angle of inclination of the roof. For the correct choice, it is necessary to take into account the specifics of the area. For example, in the presence of heavy rainfall and a fairly cold climate, an inclination angle of 40 to 45 degrees is considered ideal.
On such a roof, snow does not accumulate, which avoids an increase in pressure on the floors. The distance between the rafter legs should be 1 meter.
In hot and dry climates, the minimum tilt angle is 3 degrees.
In areas with frequent strong winds, the optimal angle of inclination is 20 degrees.
For an accurate calculation, you should use the rules used by professionals.
Builders measure this value using a special tool - an inclinometer. Before starting measurements, it is necessary to calculate the required angle.
For this, a special formula is used: the value of the angle of inclination is equal to the height of the ridge divided by the figure obtained by dividing the length of the roof by two.
crate
To cover the roof, you will need to make a crate. When choosing tiles as a roofing material, the crate must be continuous.
In the photo, the structural elements of the roof: 1. roof roofing; 2. border; 3. ventilation hatch; 4. skate; 5. rafters (rafter leg); 6. auxiliary elements; 7. counter beam (counter beam); 8. roof lathing; 9. protective element security; 10. cornice gutter; 11. frieze (border) of the wall; 12. groove or valley; 13. drainage drain pipe; 14. snow-retaining fence; 15. vents for steam outlet; 16. support bridge; 17. anchor base plate; 18. strapping element; 19. lightning rod; 20. connections technical equipment from the premises; 21. air duct; 22. access to the roof; 23. recumbent dormer (attic) window; 24. standing dormer window; 25. pipe (furnace chimney); 26. sloping roof slab; 27. attic floor; 28. dividing wall of the attic space; 29. thermal insulation.
For work, solid wooden boards are required, the thickness of which is approximately 25 cm. Particular attention should be paid to the absence of cracks and chips on them. The length of the boards should be equal to two spans between the rafters, i.e., be 2 meters.
In this case, the joints will be located only on the supports. The distance between them should be no more than 5 mm. The boards used to form the ridge should be placed as close as possible to each other. Fastening is carried out using nails 20 cm long.
The choice of lathing option depends on the type of roofing material.
If it is intended to create rolled soft roofs, then the decking of the crate must be intact (solid). In the presence of a slate or metal roof, a discharged crate is suitable.
If necessary, you can make the flooring double. In this case, the first layer must be laid in the standard order - parallel to the ridge, and the second - along the slope, perpendicularly.
Ventilation
To cover the roof of the crate is not enough. You need to think about its integrity during operation.
In order for the tiles to be ventilated, it is necessary to leave gaps in the crate, two or three each. ventilation ducts from each side. Channels should start at the bottom of the overhang and end as high as possible. The width is approximately 5 cm. At the top, an outlet is installed under the hood to remove air.
Installation of drips and lining layer
To protect the roofing from the harmful effects of condensate on the crate, it is necessary to lay a lining layer. Its installation is carried out only along the edges, where there is a high probability of water seepage: on internal valleys, near pipes, to the ridge.
The width of the lining layer should be approximately 40 cm. The carpet is nailed with screws or nails at a distance of about 25-30 cm.
If necessary, you can lay another layer, it should be located on top of the already nailed one. You can glue the overlap with bituminous glue.
Another stage of work before covering the roof should be the installation of droppers. They are metal plates to protect the eaves from moisture.
Planks are nailed with nails at a distance of 10 cm, and the overlap is 5 cm. Droppers are fixed on the ridge in a similar way.
A flexible tile is attached to the plates, which helps to improve both the functions of the dripper and its appearance. Since the plates are self-adhesive, they must first be removed from the protective layer and only then attached to the eaves. For greater reliability, it is recommended to additionally nail them with nails.
Installation of roofing material
The choice of roofing material depends on the type of roof. Each option implies its own rules and installation conditions.
Flexible shingles
To facilitate overlapping and uniform distribution of tiles, the process should be started from the middle of the eaves. The protective film is removed from the shingle and glued to the base.
Then nails are nailed along the edges. The best option is galvanized nails with fairly wide caps. The joints of the shingle must be closed with ledges.
If the project assumes the presence of pipes, then special passage elements are attached along the perimeter of the shingle cut. The tile should be glued with an overlap in place of the ridge.
In the presence of a brick pipe that heats up, it would be better to put a triangular bar at the corner of the pipe and the roof. At a distance of about 20 cm from the pipe, a lining carpet is laid, and a special connector is put on the pipe. Cracks should be sealed with sealant.
metal tile
A discharged crate should be laid under the metal tile. The amount of material can be calculated by adding the length of the slope from the ridge to the eaves, the vertical overlap of the sheets and the eaves overhang.
The first of the sheets is laid and aligned along the end and eaves, the second should be laid on top, and the third on the side. Above the second sheet is the fourth.
The entire resulting structure must be leveled and attached to the crate using self-tapping screws. In accordance with this scheme, the entire roof is assembled.
External corners and ridge battens must be overlapped and fastened with self-tapping screws. Close the ridge from the ends with plugs.
Start covering the metal tile from the bottom, in the upper direction, from left to right. The tiles are preliminarily laid out in small (5 pieces each) stacks. They are placed on slopes.
In this case, the load exerted on the rafters is distributed evenly. Tiles are attached to the rafters with galvanized screws. On each of the sheets there are special wells, with which you need to attach the sheets to each other.
Cornice filing
This work is carried out at the final stage. The walls should already be insulated, since the filing box should fit snugly against them. Otherwise, it will be necessary to either break the filing, or leave the wall section uninsulated.
Preferably, the lining is made of wood. So it will be possible not to carry out additional ventilation. The filing is a kind of box attached to the continuation of the rafters and the filly.
In the photo, the design of the cornice overhang
Its frame consists of two boards, one of which goes from the end of the overhang towards the wall, while the second goes down from the rafters. Boards are joined at right angles. Self-tapping screws or screws are used to fasten the joints.
Metal plates are also used. Between the boards, be sure to leave small gaps. The corners of the box are cut at a certain slope, and they are fastened with metal brackets and self-tapping screws.
Then the lower part of the frame is upholstered with boards along the entire length. Because they are exposed environment, they must be fixed very carefully, especially at the edges. It is also necessary to pay attention to the fact that the joints of the rows of adjacent beams do not coincide. Corners need to be cut at 45 degrees.
Roof insulation
Insulation is no less important than the construction of the roof itself.
There are several options for insulation: from above and from the inside of the crate.
If the attic space will not be used as a living area, then internal insulation can be carried out. It will also allow you to hide the free space between the rafters.
First of all, it is necessary to cover the entire perimeter of the roof with a waterproofing film. Since the rafters are located on top of the crate, it is impossible to stretch the film with a canvas.
It is necessary to ensure that the film covers all the details of the structure. Between the rafters and the crate, in the corners, wooden slats are nailed over the film. Then mineral wool must be nailed to the crate between the rafters. The plates of this insulation must be laid end to end with each other.
The next layer is a vapor barrier film. Its lower edge must be attached to the rafters. The joints of two films (waterproofing and vapor barrier) must be superimposed on each other and tightly fixed with construction tape.
If the attic is planned to be used as a living space, then care should be taken to ensure that the roof is warmer.
In this case, the film and insulation must be laid on top of the roof structures and battens. The use of polyurethane foam boards should be avoided as this material cannot be joined tightly enough.
Mineral wool is the best choice as one layer. It is also necessary to use a waterproofing film. The principle of work on insulation is similar to that described.
It is more reliable to use mineral wool as one of the layers and be sure to use a waterproofing film. In fact, the principle of insulation work is not too different.
So, we build a roof with our own hands
To build a roof of a house with your own hands, you need to follow the following steps:
- Fixing the Mauerlat;
- Installation of rafters;
- crate;
- Installation of droppers, lining layer;
- Installation of roofing material;
- Cornice filing;
- Roof insulation.
We offer you a video about the roof:
All more people strive to realize their innermost dream - to get out of the high-rise urban development in own house. Acquired suburban area quickly turns into a construction site. And, in accordance with the natural mentality of most Russian men, the construction of a new home is very often carried out on their own. And, many of the amateur craftsmen do not have much experience in this area at all, they learn literally on the go, they are looking for useful and reliable information in available sources, including on the pages Internet resources dedicated to construction. We hope that our portal will provide them with serious assistance in this matter.
So, after the walls of the house are raised on a reliable foundation, it is necessary, without delaying this, to proceed to the creation of a roof and roofing flooring. There can be many options here. And one of the most commonly used is a gable roof structure. It is not as complicated in calculations and installation as some others, that is, even a novice builder should cope with it. Therefore, the topic of this publication is the construction of the roof of a private house with your own hands using the example of a gable truss system with
It should immediately be noted that the article does not give a ready-made "recipe". The goal is to demonstrate the principles of calculating a gable roof and the sequence of its construction. And a master with an appropriate estimate should already bring the recommendations received to his own, specific construction conditions.
General information about the design of gable roofs
The basic design principle of a gable roof is probably clear from its name. The roof of such a roof forms two planes converging along the ridge line and resting on the long walls of the house (along the cornice lines). From the end sides, the roof is limited by vertical gable walls. As a rule, both along the line of cornices and along the pediment, the roofing is somewhat let out, outside the building in plan, so that overhangs are formed that protect the walls from direct precipitation.
Most often, the slopes have a symmetrical shape. Sometimes they resort to asymmetry, when the slopes are located at different angles to the horizon and, accordingly, differ in their length. But these are isolated cases, and will not be considered in this publication.
The height of the roof in the ridge, that is, the steepness of the slopes, can be different - it all depends on the planned use of the attic, the architectural ideas of the owners, and the type of roofing used.
Gable roofs have proven their high reliability. And the relative simplicity of the design makes them so popular among private developers.
The external similarity of gable roofs does not at all mean the uniformity of the design of their truss systems. It is precisely in this matter that there can be significant differences, depending both on the size of the building and on its design features.
According to the principle of structure, the truss systems of gable roofs can be divided into two groups:
- If the rafters rest on the outer walls of the building and are interconnected in a ridge knot, then such a system is called a hanging system.
To give additional rigidity to such a design, the rafter legs of each pair are reinforced with horizontal puffs (contractions). Vertical racks supported by floor beams, or diagonally mounted struts can also be used.
- In the case when the design of the house assumes the presence of a main wall inside the building, a layered truss system is often used. The name speaks for itself - the legs "lean" on the racks, which, in turn, rest on a bed laid along upper end of the capital internal walls. And, this wall can be located both in the center and offset from it. and for large buildings, two internal walls can also be used as supports. Several examples of layered systems are shown in the illustration below.
- However, a kind of "hybrid" of both systems is often used. The rafters in these cases, even without the presence of an internal partition, also receive support on the central post in the ridge knot, which, in turn, rests on powerful floor beams or on horizontal puffs between the rafter legs.
In any of the systems, especially in cases where the rafter legs are of considerable length, additional reinforcement elements are used. This is necessary to exclude the possibility of deflection of the beam or even its fracture under the action of loads. And the loads here will be considerable. First of all, it is static, due to the weight of the rafter system itself, lathing, roofing and its insulation, if it is provided for by the project. Plus, there are large variable loads, among which wind and snow come out on top. Therefore, they strive to provide the necessary number of support points for the rafter legs in order to prevent possible deformation.
Some of their reinforcement elements are shown in the design diagrams of the truss system:
The illustration above shows an example of a layered truss system:
1 - Mauerlat. Usually this is a bar rigidly fixed on the upper end of the outer walls of the building. It serves as a support and base for securing the lower part of the rafter legs.
2 - Lezhen. A bar attached to the internal partition of a building.
3 - Rack (another name is the headstock). Vertical support going from the bed to the ridge run.
4 - Skate run. A beam or board that connects the central posts and serves as the basis for securing the upper ends of the rafter legs.
5 - Rafter legs.
6 - Struts. These are additional reinforcement elements, through which you can reduce the free span of the rafter leg, that is, create additional support points for it.
7 - Lathing, which must match the selected roofing.
Prices for fasteners for rafters
fasteners for rafters
In hanging-type systems, reinforcement is made by installing horizontal puffs (pos. 7), which rigidly connect opposite rafter legs, and thereby reduce the bursting load acting on the walls of the building. There may be several such delays. For example, one is installed at the bottom, closer to the Mauerlat level or even almost flush with it. And the second is closer to the ridge knot (e is often also called a crossbar).
With a large length of rafters, it may also be necessary to use vertical racks (pos. 3) or diagonal struts (pos. 6), and often both of these elements in combination. They can be supported by floor beams (pos. 9), as shown in the illustration.
It should be correctly understood that the shown schemes are not a dogma at all. There are other designs of truss systems. For example, it is often used to fasten the lower part of the rafter legs not to the Mauerlat, but to the floor beams that are extended beyond the walls of the house. Thus, the necessary
In the roofs of large houses, more than complex schemes. For example, the rafters are connected by additional longitudinal runs, which, in turn, are supported by vertical posts or struts. But to undertake the creation of such complex systems, without having a well-established experience in this area - it is hardly reasonable. Therefore, we confine ourselves to the construction of fairly simple gable roofs.
Carrying out calculations of the parameters of a gable roof
The construction of the truss system and the arrangement of the roof on its basis should always begin with the necessary calculations. What are the tasks involved?
- First of all, it is necessary to deal with the ratio "ridge height - steepness of the roof slopes."
- After that, it will be possible to accurately calculate the length of the rafter legs, both “clean” and full, that is, taking into account the planned cornice overhangs.
- The length of the rafters and the estimated pitch from the installation will make it possible to determine the cross section of the material suitable for their manufacture, taking into account the expected roof loads. Or, on the contrary, based on the available material, choose the optimal step and place additional support points - by installing the reinforcement elements mentioned above.
The listed parameters will allow you to draw up a diagram and a drawing of the truss system as accurately as possible, correctly position all its elements. According to the existing scheme, it will be much easier to calculate how much and what material is required for installation.
- You will need to find out the total area of \u200b\u200bthe roof slopes. This is necessary for the purchase of roofing material, hydro - and vapor barrier membranes, insulation, if thermal insulation of the roof is planned. In addition, the area parameter is also important for determining the amount of material for arranging the lathing for the selected roofing.
To make it clearer during the presentation of the calculation procedure, the main quantities are schematically shown in the illustration below:
D- the width of the house (the size of its gable wall);
VC- the height of the roof in the ridge above the plane of the Mauerlat or floor beams, depending on what the lower ends of the rafter legs will be attached to;
A- the angle of steepness of the roof slopes;
WITH- working length of the rafter leg, from the ridge to the Mauerlat;
∆C- elongation of the rafter leg to form the planned cornice overhang;
W- installation step of the rafter legs.
Let's start with the above questions in order.
The ratio of the steepness of the slopes and the height of the roof ridge
These two quantities are closely related. AND Totheir calculation can be approached from different angles, taking certain criteria as initial ones.
- For example, the owners see their house with a high roof, something remotely reminiscent of the Gothic style of architecture. It is clear that with this approach, the height of the roof in the ridge increases sharply and, accordingly, the steepness of the slopes. True, it should not be forgotten that such roofs experience maximum wind loads, due to their pronounced “sail”. But the snow on such slopes will practically not linger. So it is worth considering these two factors initially. Perhaps, for an area closed from the winds, but with a predominance of snowy winters, this option will generally be the most acceptable.
Steep slopes and a high ridge are pronounced - snow does not linger on such a roof at all, but the effect of the wind becomes maximum But do not forget that the longer the rafter legs, the more difficult the system itself will be in arranging, which will require a lot of reinforcing parts.
- Another consideration to make the roof higher very often becomes the desire to have a functional attic space, up to equipping it with a full-fledged living room.
For attic space, of course, a broken truss system is preferable. But if, nevertheless, a gable is planned, then a lot of space is eaten up by corner zones along the line connecting the rafters with a Mauerlat. It is necessary to increase the steepness of the slopes (see above).
True, and here there may be an acceptable solution. For example, the Mauerlat is not located at the level of the ceiling, as in the "classic" version, but on the side walls, which are deliberately raised above the ceiling to a certain height. Then, even with a large steepness of the slopes, and without much complication of the design of the system, magnon can achieve very spacious attic rooms.
Prices for metal tiles
metal tile
By the way, it is this option that will be considered below, when the story goes about the installation of the truss system.
- It happens that the owners of the future home, on the contrary, make a decision about the minimum angles of roof slope. This may be due to material saving structures, lack of usable attic space, local conditions such as very windy but not particularly snowy terrain.
True, with this approach, we must not forget that any roofing has certain lower limits for the steepness of the slopes. For example, if it is planned to lay piece tiles, then it is necessary to ensure a steepness angle of at least 20, and for some models even 30 degrees. So if the plans already have one or another roofing, you should correlate its characteristics with the height and steepness of the roof.
So, how is the calculation carried out. As a constant value - a constant, we have the width of the house along the gable wall ( D). Using the well-known trigonometric formula, it is easy to find the height ( VC), based on the planned steepness of the slopes (angle A).
Sun \u003d 0.5 × D × tg a
It is clear that half the width of the building is taken to calculate a symmetrical gable roof, that is 0.5 ×D.
One more nuance. When calculating according to this ratio, the height difference between the heights of the ridge point and the Mauerlat plane is taken as the height. That is, the excess over the attic floor is far from always meant - this should be borne in mind.
The above formula is included in the proposed calculator.
Calculator of the ratio of the steepness of the slopes of a gable roof and the height of its ridge
You can do the installation of a gable roof with your own hands, but you can’t do without an assistant
How to build a roof yourself? Let's figure it out! I will give a simple step-by-step instruction for assembling a gable roof, developed from personal installation experience at many sites. You will learn how to install a mauerlat, a bed, a pediment, rafters, as well as how to install roofing materials.
What you need to know about a gable roof
There are 3 types of roofing systems in widespread use:
- lean-to,
- gable,
- four-slope.
| Illustration | Type |
| Shed. Despite the ease of erection, it is not functional enough, and can not be mounted on every object. | |
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Gable. Unlike a shed roof, a gable roof can be assembled on any building site. |
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Four-slope. Unnecessarily complex, both in planning and construction. |
A distinctive characteristic of gable roofs is the rafters spaced at the same distance from each other. For stability, the rafters are interconnected by transverse elements of the crate.
In this design, an attic space is formed between the hanging or layered rafters, which can be used as an attic or as an additional utility room.
In front and behind the slopes are gables associated with the facade of the building. Gables are made deaf or equipped with glazing and ventilation.
In accordance with the design features, gable roofs are divided into symmetrical, asymmetrical and broken.
| Illustration | Type |
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symmetrical- traditional designs in which the rafters are arranged in the form of an isosceles triangle. |
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With different slope angles- non-traditional solutions that are used due to the complex architecture of the building. |
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Gable (broken)- complex structures with a characteristic break in the middle of each slope. |
Mandatory elements in the construction of gable roofs
The diagram shows commonly used options for roofing systems. They are all united by the fact that the mechanical load from the truss system is transferred to the Mauerlat and already through it to the load-bearing wall.
If the construction of a gable roof is carried out on small objects, such as a garage, a temporary house, a shed, etc., the puffs can be installed not on the Mauerlat, but through the reinforcing belt - on the walls.
To make everything clear in the assembly instructions for the truss system, read the list of structural elements and their purpose.
| Illustration | Description |
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Mauerlat. A bar rigidly fixed to the load-bearing walls, which serves as a support for the rafter legs. It takes on the weight of the truss system and transfers the load to the load-bearing walls. Wood is used to make Mauerlat hard rock, not prone to cracking. |
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Rafter legs. Diagonally located supports, which, together with the tightening, form truss trusses. On the rafter legs, the installation of the entire roofing pie is carried out. |
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Puff. A horizontal beam that connects the rafter legs at their bottom. Through the ends of the tightening, the load is transferred to the Mauerlat and to the load-bearing walls. |
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Rigel. Horizontal brace mounted on the top roof truss.
This part fastens adjacent rafter legs and is used as an attic ceiling. |
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Rack. A vertical beam that connects the run and the puff. To do this, the stand is fastened with one end exactly in the center of the tightening, and with the second - at the center of the run. |
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Run. A horizontal beam that is attached below the ridge beam. A run in the system is needed to connect the rafter legs in their upper part. |
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Sill. A horizontal beam, installed in the same way as a run, but in the lower part of the truss system - on a puff. Due to the lying position, the load from vertical struts and struts does not fall on the inner wall, but on the Mauerlat. |
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Strut. A diagonal brace that connects the base of the upright to the middle of the rafter leg. The brace provides additional rigidity of the roof truss on a roof with a large area or with a small angle of inclination of the slope. |
What to consider when calculating the roof
In accordance with SNiP 2.01.07-85, truss systems for low-rise buildings are calculated taking into account the following loads:
- The weight of the truss system;
- Weight thermal insulation materials(if a warm roof is calculated);
- Roofing weight;
The most important parameters for calculating the truss system are snow and wind load. If the total weight of the roof can be controlled by the selection of roofing materials, then the loads of wind and snow have to be adapted.
A large accumulation of snow on the slopes leads to breakage or collapse of the roof. To compensate for the load of snow, the correct angle of inclination of the rafters is selected. But too much slope - this is the reason for the failure of the roofing in strong winds.
The optimal angle of inclination of a gable roof, taking into account snow and wind loads, is 30-45 °. With an increase in slope, we will get more intense convergence of snow, but at the same time, the wind load will increase.
The choice of the angle of inclination of the slope also depends on the floor area and on the desired dimensions of the attic space. The more area attic floor, the greater the angle of inclination of the roof. The ratio of these parameters is shown in the table.
If you plan to install an attic, you can use a sloping roof. broken line gable roof with an attic ensures intensive snow removal even with a slight inclination of the slope
Construction of a roof on a house of aerated concrete blocks
Step 1: prepare building materials
Let's find out how to make a gable roof using the following instructions as an example.
From lumber you will need:
- Boards 200 × 50 mm - for rafters;
- Boards 150 × 25 mm - for lathing;
- Bars 50 × 40 mm - for the counter-lattice.
Before building a truss system, we process the harvested lumber with antiseptic impregnations. We do this in advance, because it will not be easy to process an already finished design.
If the price of special antiseptic impregnations exceeds the planned budget, used engine oil can be used. Working off the surface of the lumber creates a hydrophobic layer that will prevent the boards from rotting.
Step 2: install the Mauerlat
| Illustration | Stage description |
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Structural Wall Alignment. The end of the wall along which we will lay the Mauerlat is imperfectly even. Therefore, we level the surface cement-sand mortar or masonry adhesive. |
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Laying waterproofing. On top of the dried solution we lay a strip of roofing material. So we exclude direct contact between wood and concrete. If there is no roofing material, the surface of the bearing wall can be coated bituminous mastic or just melted resin. |
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We lay the Mauerlat. Since the roof area will be small, we use not a beam, but a board 200 × 50 mm as a Mauerlat. We lay out the board flush with the outer edge of the wall. |
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We mark the Mauerlat for anchors. We make the markup so that the anchor is located at a distance of 15 cm from the place where the rafters are attached. We will use anchors with a length of 150 mm and a diameter of 12 mm. We immediately prepare the washers, as shown in the photo, so that the bolt presses the board. |
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We fix the Mauerlat. We drill the board through with a drill for wood at 12. Through the hole we pass into the wall with a drill at 12 and drill 150 mm deep. We drive anchors into the prepared holes. We twist the anchors so that the nut, through the washer, presses the board. |
Step 3: install the bed
This stage is performed similarly to laying the Mauerlat, and therefore we use the same Construction Materials, and the same anchors. But there is a difference - if one was used as a Mauerlat longitudinal board, then we will use two boards stacked on top of each other as a bed.
| Illustration | Stage description |
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Leveling the interior wall. To do this, we use a masonry mortar with which we fill the relief.
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Installation of waterproofing. We lay the roofing material in strips.
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Bed laying. Lay the boards so that their edge is flush with the edge of the wall. |
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Bed mount. We drill a hole through two boards to concrete. Then we drill concrete to the depth of the anchor with a drill. We drive the anchors into the drilled holes and press the bed to the wall surface. |
Step 4: Putting on the Gable
The pediment can also be laid after the assembly of the rafters. But it is better to lay out the blocks in advance, as the finished rafters will interfere with the masonry work.
The laying of the pediment of aerated concrete blocks is carried out with the displacement of the next row relative to the previous one. For high quality masonry, we use only special glue.
In order for the pediment to be even, after laying each new row, we check the correct installation in the vertical and horizontal plane.
Step 5: install racks and girders
| Illustration | Stage description |
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We make the layout of the bed. In accordance with the design of the roofing system, we mark the location of the rafter legs on the bed. According to the location of the rafters, with an indent of 50 mm, we will install racks. |
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Installation of two extreme racks. We install extreme racks that will be adjacent to the gables. We make racks from a board 200 × 50 mm and fasten to the bed with L-shaped hardware and self-tapping screws. Additionally, we fix the racks on the bed with diagonal struts. |
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Run setup. We fasten the run with L-shaped hardware and self-tapping screws. We check the level of the position of the run along the horizon. If the level is filled up, we eliminate the difference by sawing one of the racks or adjusting the mounting hardware in height. |
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Installing intermediate racks. We do this in the same way as we installed the extreme racks, but according to the corresponding marks on the bed. |
Step 6: Installing the rafters
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We transfer the boards to the installation site. We calculate the required number of boards and, one by one, raise them up. We lay out the boards brought upstairs with one end on the Mauerlat, and with the other end on the bed. As a result, there should be two boards near each rack. |
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Purlin alignment. We measure the distance from the edges of the run to the Mauerlats. Most likely, there will be a slight distortion. To align the run, we temporarily fasten the diagonal struts, as in the photo. |
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We start the rafters on the run. On the run, close to the mark on which the rafter leg will lie, we fasten the bar. We pull the rafter beam to the bar with a clamp. |
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We make markup for the run and Mauerlat. With the help of a square, we mark the rafters in the part with which they will lie on the run and on the Mauerlat. To get the same markup for the cutout, you can make a template from thick cardboard. But the template can only be used if the rafters are the same in width. |
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Cutouts for the run and Mauerlat. By marking with a miter saw, we make cutouts. We apply the prepared board with one edge to the run, and with the other edge to the Mauerlat. We do the same work with an adjacent beam. |
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Trying on and cutting adjacent rafters. We bring the prepared rafters to the lines, join and mark, as in the photo. According to the markup, we cut adjacent boards so that there is an even joint between them. |
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Rafter fastening. We connect the rafters with perforated fastening hardware, and fix it on the Mauerlat and on the run. In the same way, we install the rafters from the side of the opposite pediment. |
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Landmark stretch. We mark the same distance on the rafters, for example, a meter from the ridge. According to the markup, we screw in the screws. We stretch a cord between opposite rafters, which will mark the edge of the rafter system. |
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Installation of intermediate rafters. Installation is carried out according to the previously made mark. Be sure to check the verticality of the rafters by level. |
After the rafters are assembled, we finish work with the gables. At this stage, we will make and install additional ones to give the masonry a finished look.
| Illustration | Stage description |
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Gable marking. Along the line of the rafters, we mark the laying of aerated concrete blocks. |
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Block pruning. According to the markup, we cut down the protruding sections of the pediment. |
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Production of additional elements. From pieces of aerated concrete blocks, we cut out liners according to the size of the recesses at the end of the gable. We try on the made additional elements in place and, if necessary, correct them. |
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Laying additional elements. We make masonry glue and lay additional elements in the corresponding recesses. |
Step 7: Strengthening the rafters with puffs and braces
To make the roof more stable, we will install reinforcing elements - braces and puffs. We will make reinforcing elements from a board 200 × 50 mm and fasten it to adjacent rafter legs, passing through the rack.
| Illustration | Stage description |
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Template installation. Cut off a piece of board 200×50 mm, which we will use as a template. We fasten the template at the junction of the rack and the bed, as in the photo. |
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Puff mount. On the template, by level, we set a horizontal board. We fasten the leveled board along the edges to the rafters with bolts through through holes. In the center, we fasten the board with self-tapping screws to the rack. |
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Trimming the puff along the line of the rafters. From the end of the puff, mark the line of passage of the rafters. According to the markup, we cut the edge of the board. |
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Installing the remaining puffs. Following the example of the first puff, we collect and fasten subsequent puffs to the opposite gable. |
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Installation of crossbars. We make spacers from a 150 × 25 mm board, which we fasten close to the bottom of the run. We fasten the crossbars with self-tapping screws on the rafters and on the rack. |
Step 8: trimming (trimming) rafters
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Overhangs marking. The optimal length of the overhangs of the rafters is 50-60 cm. We measure this length along the bottom of the overhang from the wall. We apply a level to the mark and draw a vertical line along it. From the vertical line, we draw the shape of the overhang, taking into account the subsequent location of the cornice strip. |
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Trimming overhangs. According to the markup, we cut off the end of the rafter leg with a miter saw. We perform a similar operation on all rafter legs, along the perimeter of the roof. In the photo, the overhang of the truss system - the front cut should be vertical, and the bottom cut should be horizontal. |
Step 9: Installing the roofing pie
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Installation of frontal and cornice boards. In the front part of the overhang, in specially made cutouts, we lay boards 100 × 25 mm. We fasten the boards laid in the cutouts with two self-tapping screws to each rafter leg. |
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Remove the protective film from the drip. The protective film must be removed prior to installation. After installing the bar, it will be difficult to cope with this task. |
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Dropper installation. We fasten the drip bar to the roofing nails. We hammer nails along the upper edge of the dropper in increments of 30 cm. When hammering nails, we try not to push through the dropper so as not to damage the protective layer of the paintwork. |
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Installing plugs on rafters. We cut out the plugs from the board 150 × 25 mm and install them in the gap between the rafter legs. Plugs are needed so that the insulation from the mineral wool slabs does not slide down. |
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Preparing the dripper for membrane installation. Glue double-sided tape along the upper edge of the dropper. On this adhesive tape we will then fix the vapor-permeable membrane. |
| Lathing installation. Through the lined vapor-permeable membrane, we attach the bars to the rafters. On the bars with a step of 30 cm we install the transverse boards of the crate. | |
| Ridge waterproofing. At the level of the ridge, we push the membrane under the crate. After that, we tighten the bars of the crate with self-tapping screws. | |
| Trimming the sheathing at the ends of the slopes. We stretch the cord between the ridge and the frontal board at a distance of 50 cm from the gable. We make markings along the cord. Miter saw cut off the edges according to the marks. |
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| Strengthening the edge of the crate. Along the entire slope, the edge of the crate is hemmed with a bar. We fasten the bar on each board with two self-tapping screws. | |
| Installation of roofing material. We lay out the sheets of metal corrugated board and fasten them along the crate with self-tapping screws with press washers. |
Conclusion
Now you know how to make a gable roof at home with your own hands. The proposed instructions will be useful when building a country house or cottage. To learn even more on the topic, watch the video in this article. If you still have questions about the technology and need clarification, write about it in the comments.
