The use of plastic for interior decoration premises are becoming widespread. It is used for both walls and ceilings. will solve many problems associated with the quality of the ceiling.
Plastic panels have excellent performance and attractive appearance.
Plastic panels have many positive qualities. They are quite technological and beautiful. From a huge assortment, you can always choose what you like. Do-it-yourself plastic suspended ceiling is convenient, fast and practical.
Features of the choice of material
Suspended ceiling can be made of different materials(wood, chipboard, polystyrene, etc.). One of the most common designs is a suspended ceiling made of plastic. Such a surface has a number of advantages: ease of installation, low weight, large color gamut, low cost. The most important - plastic ceiling has high moisture resistance. It can be easily washed with water. Plastic is not deformed by changes in humidity and temperature.
The most optimal material for plastic ceilings is polyvinyl chloride. It can be used as tiles or panels. The greatest application is found by long PVC panels. They are made in two types - seamless and embossed. Seamless panels have a continuous flat surface, and smooth edges allow you to discreetly join the panels to each other.
At the relief panel, the edge on one side ends with a groove, and the other edge has a longitudinal tenon. When joining the panels, the spike enters the groove, and an even rectangular groove is formed along the joint.
The panel is made in the form of two layers of plastic, between which stiffening ribs are formed, which provides sufficient mechanical strength. The front surface of the panel is polished (varnished). Standard PVC panels are sold with a width of 25 cm and a length of 2.7 or 3 m.
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The choice of ceiling design
A plastic ceiling can have two main structures - suspended and stretched. Stretch plastic ceiling is made of vinyl film. During the installation of such a ceiling, the film must be heated up to 70º, which requires the use of special heat guns. Installation stretch ceilings are usually made by professionals.
To install a plastic ceiling with your own hands, a suspended structure made of PVC panels is most suitable. Suspended ceiling is a horizontal surface formed from a glossy layer of PVC panels, mounted on metal frame. In this case, the frame is fixed on the wall and ceiling, at a certain distance from the surface of the ceiling.
The frame is a tightly connected mounting structure in the form of a lattice. The frame is made of metal profiles. The frame is attached to the wall using a U-shaped guide profile. Usually, a profile type PN 28x27 is used, 28 mm wide and 27 mm high. The main one is the ceiling profile, which has a C-shape. The profile type PS60x27 is used. From this profile, a lattice structure of the frame is created.
The frame is attached to the ceiling with the help of hangers, which provide fastening of the profiles to the ceiling. For the cross-shaped connection of profiles, the crab fastener is used. Between themselves, the ceiling profiles are connected using a U-shaped connector with a length of 30-40 mm.
When installing PVC panels, the connection along the length is carried out using a plastic docking profile (H-shaped molding). In addition, at the end of the installation of plastic, plastic skirting boards, starting profiles, cornice profiles, corners (outer and inner), clamps can be used to hide the initial gaps.
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Preparatory work
The main ceiling after the installation of the suspended ceiling will be hidden from prying eyes, therefore, increased requirements are not put forward to its surface. However, it should not be allowed to crumble, and most importantly, that traces of mold or fungus remain on it after flooding. The surface of the ceiling should be primed and plastered so that no cracks or chips remain on it. Areas with the manifestation of mold must be pre-treated with an antiseptic, for example, a solution of copper sulphate.
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Surface marking
Important preparatory stage, which affects the quality of the entire false ceiling, is the markup. First, the true height of the main ceiling at different points in the room is specified. To do this, the height of the wall is measured with a tape measure at least at three points - in the corners and in the center. In the corner with the lowest wall height, a mark is made at the height of the frame profile suspension, that is, at a distance of 5-10 cm from the ceiling. The distance is determined by the need for communication.
If it is planned to install built-in (spot) lamps or lay pipes along the ceiling, then this distance is 8-10 cm; if nothing extra is planned, then 5-6 cm is enough. Then a mark is applied on the wall in another corner, but taking into account the actual height of the wall. The suspended ceiling must be parallel to the floor. Through the marks in the corners, a straight line is beaten off with the help of a well-tight and pre-painted with pigment building cord. The opposite wall is marked in the same way. The lines are interconnected by marking other walls. Thus, a line is drawn along the entire perimeter of the room - it is the lower boundary of the frame guide profile.
The marking of ceiling profiles is carried out on the surface of the ceiling. To do this, first, parallel lines are beaten off with a cord in the longitudinal direction. The first and last lines are drawn at a distance of 15-20 cm from the wall. Parallel lines are drawn between them with a step of 30-40 cm. Lines are marked in the transverse direction in the same way. A grid should be applied to the ceiling, which indicates the location of the center line of the ceiling profiles. The marking of the installation of suspensions is made along these lines. The first marks are made at a distance of 25-30 cm from each wall, and all subsequent marks in increments of 50-60 cm. The marks should not coincide with the crosshairs of the lines - they must be offset by at least 5 cm from the crosshairs.
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Guide profile installation
Installation of the false ceiling frame begins with the installation of a U-shaped profile on the wall along the marking line. First, holes are drilled at the base of the profiles for fastening to the wall: the first - at a distance of 10-15 cm from the edge, the next after 30-40 cm from each other. Then it is applied to the wall, and marks are applied on it. According to the marks with a puncher or an electric drill, holes with a diameter of 8 mm are made in the wall. Plastic dowels are inserted into the holes. The PN profile is fixed in dowels with screws. Thus, guides are installed around the entire perimeter of the room. The horizontal position of the installation should be checked with a level.
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Installation of ceiling profiles and installation of communications
First, profiles are installed that are directed along a short wall. These profiles should be stretched from wall to wall. If you cannot select a profile desired length, then it joins from two segments. The connection must be reliable and rigid - using a U-shaped standard mount or a metal bar. PS profiles are installed in accordance with the markings on the ceiling. The ends are fastened inside the guide profile fixed on the wall. Profiles are placed base down. PS profiles in the perpendicular direction are mounted from segments, the length of which is equal to the distance between the installed PS profiles. Attach them with a crab mount.
The fixing of PS profiles on the ceiling is carried out through suspensions. Suspensions bend, forming U-shape. The height of the side rack must strictly correspond to the distance from the ceiling to the PS profile. The suspension platform is fastened with screws to dowels on the main ceiling in the marked places. The legs of the suspension are attached to the sides of the profile with self-tapping screws.
Before fixing the plastic panels, it is necessary to place the entire communication system inside the frame (if necessary). First of all, it concerns electrical wires- for a chandelier or a system of spotlights. The wires must be bundled and placed inside the corrugated hose. Wiring is carried out to the place of attachment of lighting equipment. The wires are neatly attached to the frame profiles.
For finishing and ennobling the walls and ceilings of bathrooms and kitchens, it was mainly used tile, paint, whitewash, washable wallpaper. Or the simultaneous use of two or three of the above coatings was proposed.
But for about 15 years, plastic plates made of polyvinyl chloride have been used for these purposes, which have become very popular. Plastic plates have many positive qualities:
- Relatively easy installation, which even a non-professional can do alone. The main thing is to be able to manage well with conventional and power tools.
- Fast installation. Ceiling lining can be done in a few hours.
- Color decision. Now on sale you can find plates of classic and completely unthinkable colors. This will help you find what you're looking for.
- Exterior finish plates. The arsenal of plastic coating is diverse. There are colors of wood of different species, mirror coating. Panels are matte, shiny, glossy.
- Relatively inexpensive when compared with conventional types of coating (for example, with tiles).
- Easily processed. Cut with a knife or scissors.
- Helps to reliably mask wiring, pipes or surface irregularities.
Characteristics of PVC boards
- Width: 25-50 cm.
- Thickness: 5-10 mm.
- Length: 2.7-3.0 m or 6 m.
Polyvinyl chloride as a cladding material:
- strong enough - it is difficult to break it with your hands;
- very plastic; not afraid of water;
- does not darken in the sun;
- does not conduct sound;
- clean environmentally;
- has some thermal insulation due to air channels inside;
- some species can withstand temperatures of 70-80 degrees;
- easy to clean;
- has no smell.
Newfangled LED lamps can be directly mounted on PVC panels.
Of the negative qualities, the fragility and combustibility of the material stand out.
With a large bend, it breaks, and with an accidental impact, a dent may appear on it.
Selection of panels and calculation of the amount of material
For a room with a height of 2.70 m and above, you can choose panels of any color, but it is better to take pastel, neutral colors. For a low room you need to take light colors or mirror tiles. They give a visual effect of increasing volume.
Advice: Do not confuse ceiling and wall panels.
This is the mistake of many individuals who carry out repairs on their own. It's better to ask the seller. As a last resort, it is useful to know that ceiling tiles weigh less than wall tiles.
- Calculation of PVC plates, crossbeams and skirting boards
Calculating the number of panels is easy. It is enough to divide the area of the entire ceiling of the room being repaired (the product of the length of the room by its width) by the area of \u200b\u200bone PVC plate. Then add another 15-20% needed for embedding different kind gaps.
For example, you are renovating a bathroom. A riser is installed in it, and a horizontal pipe runs under the ceiling. For this option, which is not uncommon in old buildings, a special calculation is needed and 15-20% of the surplus will come in handy.
Advice: Place panels parallel front door.
At the same time, if you start installation from the far wall, then each subsequent plate will hide the seam, which will allow you to get the effect of an almost seamless coating.
To calculate the length of the crossbars (metal profiles or wooden slats), it is necessary to draw a ceiling plan, reduced proportionally.
The main metal profiles (or rails) should be perpendicular to the front door. Between them, a gap of 50-60 cm should be maintained. According to the drawing, we determine the number of crossbars, taking into account 4 pieces of rigid profiles fixed around the perimeter of the room.
Ceiling plinth is much easier to calculate. We measure the perimeter with a tape measure and buy the required amount, taking into account the length of one plinth strip - 3 m.
If the ceiling needs to be lowered, then the number of U-shaped mounting plates must also be calculated.
For example:
The room measures 2.6 x 2.4 m and the door is on the long side.
You have chosen slabs 3.0x0.3 m.
To calculate this option, you can not divide the area of \u200b\u200bthe plates and the ceiling, because the length of the plate overlaps the length of the room. It is only necessary to calculate how many PVC strips will fit in the width of the room.
2.4 / 0.3 = 8 lanes.
The drawing of the room might look like this:
Option 1 - strengthening the profiles directly on the ceiling of the room;
Option 2 - the crossbars are fixed to the U-shaped mounts (shown as squares).
It can be seen from the first figure that there are only 8 profiles (counting 4 along the perimeter).
To strengthen them on the ceiling and on the walls, you will need 16 dowels (two for each). Self-tapping screws are calculated based on the number of strips and profiles. PVC panels are fixed on each cross member with two self-tapping screws.
We got 8 stripes, 4 crossbars. Lateral can not be considered. The panels are simply inserted into a special groove against the wall. We expect:
8x4x2 \u003d 64 self-tapping screws + 36 for stock (for good measure) \u003d 100 pieces.
In the second figure, 2 dowels are needed for each U-shaped fastening and for side profiles on the walls
For fastenings: 8x2 = 16.
On the sidewalls: 4x2 = 8.
Total - 24 dowels.
To strengthen the strips, it is necessary, as in the first version, 64 self-tapping screws. But besides this, 16 more self-tapping screws are needed to fix the profiles on the U-shaped plates - two for each.
Panels and types of plastic profiles
The bands themselves are hollow and divided into sections. Because of this, they weigh so little. Vertical stiffeners add strength to PVC sheets.
But panels can only be fixed on a plane. Upon reaching the wall, if no action is taken, a gap will remain. To eliminate this problem, there are PVC profiles. They are different types, but most of all the following options for plastic profiles are quoted and used:
- Starting. Mounted on the walls (perimeter) for sealing the ends of the coating.
- F profile. Closes the ends on the protruding corners. For example, in some shared bathrooms, the toilet bowl is separated from the bathtub by a wall. This profile will close the corners when moving from one part of such a bathroom to another.
- H - profile. Serves for docking of two panels (building).
- Plastic outer corner. It is applied at elimination of cracks, both on internal, and on external corners.
- Plinth ceiling. Serves for decoration and for sealing the ends, like the starting one.
- Universal PVC corner. To eliminate cracks in the corners. It's just glued on.
Preparation for installation and marking
First you need to clean the surface of the old ceiling from plaster and chips. After all, crumbling elements, such as whitewash, putty, can damage the new surface or add pressure to the plates. It is necessary to carefully prime the old ceiling.
When lowering the ceiling, it is necessary to take into account the standard sizes of the lighting fixtures used, the presence of various kinds of communications (pipes), protrusions (beams), hidden wiring or irregularities. Only after taking into account these values determine the lowest point of the ceiling. From it, the marking of the planes and the frame begins.
- We attach a ruler to the found point, lower it to the required distance and put a mark.
- We draw on the walls (along the perimeter, starting from the mark) a working line indicating the level of the frame plastic surface. This operation is performed with twine (cord) painted with colored chalk. You can use a homemade water level or
- purchased - laser.
- Next, we mark the places of the supporting guides located on the walls. They should be fixed on the walls perpendicular to the front door. Then, when installing PVC strips, the seams will not be noticeable.
- Then we draw lines (retreating by 40-60 cm) for the remaining profiles or, if the ceiling level is to be significantly lowered, for U-shaped elements.
After that, we proceed to the design of the frame and the strengthening of the panels.
We mount a false ceiling from plastic panels
We start by fixing the support rails. We install one profile along the drawn line and drill a wall through it in two or three places, preparing holes for dowels.
To connect the lamps (if there are several), it is desirable that the profiles are 1-1.5 cm from the ceiling, in extreme cases, it is necessary to cut holes in them.
Having strengthened all four support rails on the walls, we proceed to installation auxiliary profiles. If it is planned to lower the ceiling, then ceiling U-shaped fasteners must be installed on its surface.
They are installed on one or two dowels or on anchors with wedges (depending on the design) after 50-80 cm and slightly bent from the ceiling. It is impossible to completely bend - they will interfere with the installation of profiles.
An additional profile at a certain angle is inserted at one end into the main guide. Then we bring the other end into the opposite profile, align it along the drawn line or along the U-shaped plates and fasten it with self-tapping screws first to the wall guides, and then to the fasteners on the ceiling.
Jumpers can either not be installed at all or mounted only in places where weights are fixed (chandeliers, etc.).
Thus strengthening everything metal profiles carry out the laying of wires (lighting and power cables). For reliable isolation and fire safety, they are pulled through a rubber or PVC hose. Loops (15 cm) are lowered at the attachment points of future lighting elements.
Plate installation
Advice: Before installation work, remove the film from the PVC elements, if any, otherwise you will have to tear it off along with the finished ceiling.
Let's get to the main part of the work. Previously, the strips must be cut to a value equal to the length of the room minus 5-10 mm. This is to ensure easy and quick installation. The installation process itself is performed as follows:
- Either a U-shaped profile or a ceiling plinth with the same groove is screwed to the main guides with self-tapping screws. On the side walls, you can strengthen the PVC corner universal or starting profile.
- A strip of polyvinyl chloride is inserted into a U-shaped PVC element. Many people cut off the latch, believing that it will not fit snugly in the PVC profile. But this is a delusion.
- Strengthen the other side of the first PVC plate with self-tapping screws with an enlarged head or with the help of special home-made fasteners cut from tin. These fasteners hold the strip with their tongue, which has a clearly larger area than the head of any self-tapping screw and will not interfere with the next strip.
They are fixed as follows:
- insert the tongue into the groove of the PVC strip;
- press the element together with the panel to the guide;
- fix.
Advice: When pressing, it makes sense to pre-drill the wings with a thin (2-2.5 mm) drill homemade item and guide. Then the self-tapping screw will easily screw in.
If you used wooden laths for lathing, then the wings of a home-made fastener are screwed to both sides of it. If you have plasterboard profiles available, then you can either screw the fasteners to the sidewalls or simply bend the protruding parts of the wings and press them firmly against the plane of the sides of the guide with pliers.
The counterpart of the second is inserted (along the length) into the open groove of the first strip. Moreover, the corners of the second strip are first inserted, so that one of them enters the lock of the first plate, and the second into the side PVC profile. Then, with light pressure, they lead into the groove and the entire strip, so that its second end enters the PVC element (starter or corner) located on the opposite side wall.
You must act carefully otherwise you risk breaking off the part of the lock clamped by screws or fasteners.
If the strips are closed unevenly, then a thin bar, a wooden ruler or a piece of the counterpart of the same PVC panel should be inserted into the locking groove of the last strip. By moving this part along the groove, gently tapping with a hammer, or wooden block carefully drive the strip until it stops.
If, according to the plan, it is supposed to strengthen the lamp (spotlight) on the strip, then the hole for it can be cut out with any cutting tool immediately after installation. Just be careful not to overdo it. Then the wires are brought out into the hole and the lamps are connected, although this can be done later.
You can also perform this operation on the floor before installation. First, attach the panel to the ceiling, mark the holes, lower it to the floor, cut through, and then fix it. But it takes too much time.
- Installation of the last PVC panel
This is worth talking about in particular. In the manner described above, all longitudinal elements are strengthened except for the last one.
Some inexperienced craftsmen, to facilitate installation, suggest gluing it liquid nails. But "the game is not worth the candle." To do this, you need to cut the last fragment of the ceiling very evenly. But due to the design of the panel, this is very difficult to do.
When cutting with a ruler or rail, even with a slight pressure, the plastic bends, and the knife wags to the sides. It is very difficult to get a good cut. Therefore, you need to cut from the side of the U-profile. But in this case, a noticeable seam between the panels is obtained. After all, there are inconsistent castle and reciprocal part nearby.
Therefore, it is better to carry out the installation in the usual way. Let's talk about it separately. This process is confusing to many. After all, you must simultaneously insert the strip into four grooves:
- penultimate panel lock;
- slot in the U-shaped profile;
- two grooves on the side walls.
Oddly enough, but there are no difficulties. First you need to prepare the PVC element for installation. It is necessary to set the width of the future fragment of the ceiling. This can be done with a ruler, which is inserted into the U-shaped profile on the wall perpendicular to it and the divisions are counted to the penultimate strip. This will be the width of the last fragment.
Some people will ask a reasonable question that we did not take into account the groove width (5 mm) of the penultimate pvc element, and the last fragment of our ceiling will hang out. But this is precisely the “trick”, especially since you did this process one or several times at home when you inserted the glass into bookshelf or in a sideboard.
The depth of the U-shaped profile on the wall is 1 cm, and the depth of the lock is 5 mm. Therefore, if you insert the last fragment into the profile, and then pull it out by snapping it into the lock, then the whole structure will be assembled properly.
There is a second question. What about side slots? The answer is simple. To do this, we cut the strips. It is necessary to slightly bend the last strip in an arc and insert it into one of the side grooves until it stops. Then gradually slide it along the entire length into the U-profile.
- Attach construction tape to the strip in two places. By pulling it, you can pull out the panel and lock it in the lock. Just try to pull parallel to the surface of the ceiling, otherwise the tape will simply break.
- Before installing the last fragment, wrap two thin tapes of dense material over the edge. After sliding the panel into the P-element, pull the ribbons. The force of friction and a tight connection will not let them jump out immediately, and the strip will go forward. When it snaps into place, slightly bend the edge of the U-profile with a screwdriver or knife and the tape will come out. Worst case, just cut it off.
At the end of the work, install skirting boards or other decorative-hiding elements. Clean the ceiling from adhering chips, dirt, fingerprints. Connect and insert fixtures into the holes if you did not do this during installation. On this installation of the ceiling from pvc panels finished.
Plastic ceiling panels are a good alternative drywall constructions. Easy to install, durable in use, they perfectly mask the defects of the ceiling surface and give the room an attractive look. Mounting is not difficult if you carefully study the technology.
Tools and materials for work
In order not to be distracted by searches in the process of work, all necessary tools and materials should be prepared in advance:
It is better to use the water level, so the markup will be done faster and with greater accuracy. The frame of the rails can only be mounted in a dry room, it is better to mount an aluminum profile in the bathroom or in the kitchen. If the length of the ceiling is longer than the length of the panels, an additional H-shaped connecting molding will be required. Its design allows you to securely fasten two adjacent panels and avoid sagging at the joints.
Calculation of the amount of materials
When planning, it is very important to correctly calculate the amount necessary materials. This will help avoid unnecessary costs and reduce the amount of waste after repairs. First you need to calculate the area of \u200b\u200bthe ceiling by multiplying its length by its width. In the same way, the area of \u200b\u200bone panel is determined, and then the ceiling area is divided by the panel area and the resulting value is rounded up.
Since the panels will be trimmed during installation, and the material may not be enough, it is recommended to increase the ceiling area by at least 10% when calculating. If the ceiling surface has a complex configuration, it is better to add 15% for trimming. In addition to the panels, you will also need rails for the frame; to find out the total length of the rails, you need to divide the width of the ceiling by 0.3 and multiply by its length.
When attaching the rails to the ceiling, dowels and self-tapping screws are placed at a distance of 40 cm from each other. The starting profile is fastened every 0.5 m. Knowing the length of all the rails and the profile, it will not be difficult to calculate the number of fasteners. The total length of the UD profile is equal to the perimeter of the ceiling plus 10% for joints. The same length should be ceiling plinth. The consumption of the primer mixture is usually indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging, so when buying, you need to know the area of \u200b\u200bthe ceiling.
An important point: when buying plastic panels, you should immediately check their integrity in the package and the absence of defective elements. It often happens that after printing out a purchase at home, people find defective, bent or broken panels, which are very difficult to get a free replacement.
Installation technology of plastic ceilings
The connection of the panels is quite tight, but not tight, and therefore through the seams can penetrate tiny particles dust, lime and plaster from the ceiling surface. In addition, mold often appears on the ceiling, especially in the corners, and fungus spores also enter the room and are inhaled by people. To avoid such troubles, you need to properly prepare everything.
It is not necessary to level the ceiling, but it is necessary to remove the exfoliated whitewash or plaster. It is best to walk along the ceiling with a stiff-bristled brush, and then wipe it with a damp cloth from dust. cracks and through holes or cement mortar. Finally, the ceiling is primed twice with a deep penetration antifungal compound.
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Mixtures for leveling walls and ceilings
Markup for the start profile
In order for the ceiling to be even, the panels must be located in the same horizontal plane. To do this, along the perimeter on the walls, accurate markings are made for the starting profile. Depending on the curvature working surface and the thickness of the wiring from the ceiling recede down by 5-10 cm. Mark a point on the wall with a pencil and start marking the level from it. Marks are placed in each corner and in the middle of the walls, and then connected with a beating.
UD profile fixing
The starting profile is fixed to the concrete walls with dowel-nails or anchor bolts, having previously drilled holes along the marking line. The frame is screwed to the wooden surface with long self-tapping screws. The fastening step is 50 cm. The profile is applied to the markup, leveled horizontally and screwed. At the joints, as well as along the entire length, there should be no gaps between the wall and the profile.
Frame installation
The lathing slats are arranged in parallel rows every 30-40 cm. First, straight lines are drawn, stepping back from one of the walls 30 cm. Metal suspensions are screwed to the ceiling along these lines with a step of 35-40 cm. On the suspensions, a crate is mounted from a profile or rails, the ends of which are brought into the starting profile around the perimeter, then the design is checked by the building level. All elements must be strictly in the same plane, any irregularities and deviations from the horizontal will lead to deformation of the ceiling.
Laying electrical wiring
When the frame is securely fixed, proceed with the installation. Carefully consider the location of the cables, the output points of the lamps, ventilation ducts. Each system should be as isolated as possible from the rest, and cables, hoses and wires should be neatly bundled with plastic ties. It is desirable that the wires be corrugated and firmly attached to the ceiling; sagging of the wiring elements is unacceptable. Where the lighting device will be installed, you need to additionally strengthen the crate with guides. In conclusion, they once again check the horizontality and strength of the fastening of the crate, the absence of parts protruding beyond the boundaries of the frame.
Prepare an L-shaped bar and the first panel: measure the distance between the walls and cut the plastic with a hacksaw. The ends of the extreme strips are cut at an angle of 45 degrees. Please note that the panels are mounted perpendicular to the guide profile. The L-shaped bar is mounted first; it is fixed with screws to the rails located along the perimeter of the ceiling. Stand on the side where the skin will end, the bar does not need to be screwed yet. Next, the first panel is inserted into the profile with one side, holding it in a horizontal position along its entire length.
If the ceilings have a large area, it is better to work with an assistant, since it is quite inconvenient to hold the panel on weight and at the same time attach it to the crate. The free side edge of the panel is fixed with self-tapping screws to the supporting profile or rails. Thin plastic can be attached to wooden rails with construction stapler. Each subsequent panel is mounted in the same way, carefully inserting the ends into the L-shaped strips.
When using panels of short length, it is recommended to move the transverse seams in a checkerboard pattern. So the ceiling will look more attractive. Trimming of each element is performed sequentially, as soon as the previous one is fixed. This contributes to a reduction in material consumption and a more accurate fit of the joints.
When installing the panels in the places where the electrical wiring exits, holes of the desired diameter are pre-cut in the plastic. This can be done with a sharp utility knife. The last bar is first adjusted to the width of the hole, then inserted into the L-shaped profile, and its edge is smeared with glue and inserted into the ceiling. If instead of a profile it is planned to use a ceiling plinth, the edge of the panel can be fixed with self-tapping screws - they will not be visible under the baguette.
When gluing baguettes, you should very carefully apply them to the ceiling so as not to stain the plastic. If this happens, you must immediately wipe the glue with a clean cloth, because it is quite difficult to clean it after drying. On this, the installation of a plastic ceiling is considered complete.
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Wall panels
Video - Do-it-yourself plastic ceiling
One of the simplest suspended ceilings to perform is a ceiling made of plastic panels. This type of ceiling is quite popular due to its functional and aesthetic qualities. Most often it is used in the bathroom or in the kitchen.
This type of ceiling has many advantages.
- Firstly, it is easy to install, making a ceiling of plastic panels with your own hands is within the power of everyone.
- Secondly, this type of ceiling does not require additional finishing, such as a plasterboard ceiling.
- Thirdly, since the ceiling made of plastic panels is a suspended structure, lamps and other communications can be installed in it.
- Fourthly, the plastic ceiling is easy to clean and suitable for use in rooms with high humidity eg bathroom.
Let's now see how to make a ceiling from plastic panels with your own hands. Structurally, the ceiling of this type is a frame made of a drywall profile and plastic panels attached to it. Therefore, the installation of a ceiling made of plastic panels can be divided into two stages: installation of the frame and installation of plastic panels.
Necessary materials and tools
To assemble the frame, you will need a guide and ceiling profile, direct suspensions, dowel-nails, metal screws. From the tool: drill or puncher, metal scissors, laser or building level, screwdriver.
Mounting the frame for plastic panels
They start by marking the position of the ceiling of plastic panels on the walls. At this stage, you should determine the size of the gap between the base of the ceiling and the surface of the future ceiling.
This gap depends on the irregularities of the ceiling, as well as on what communications will be laid under the plastic ceiling, and what lamps will be installed in it. In order to make it easier to decide, we can say that to install an average spotlight, you need 7-10 cm of subceiling space. For laying wiring and mounting the ceiling of plastic panels, 3-5 cm is enough.
After the size of the gap is determined using the level, mark the position of the future ceiling. It is more convenient to use a laser level for these purposes.
Fig.1. Installation of guide profiles
The next step is the installation of suspensions. Hangers are necessary for attaching the ceiling profile to the ceiling, thereby increasing its rigidity and strength.
Suspensions are placed at a distance of 60-70 cm relative to each other. Marking for suspensions is performed as follows. The installation locations of the ceiling profiles are determined.
They are located perpendicular to the plastic panels. For a ceiling made of plastic panels, given that they are much lighter than drywall, the profiles are arranged in increments of 60 cm to 1 m. Based on this, the locations of the profiles are marked and suspensions are attached to the ceiling.
Fig.2. Installation of direct suspensions
At this stage, difficulties may arise if you have a ceiling base concrete slab overlap.
The floor slabs are hollow and if the dowel-nail gets into the cavity, it will not hold. This problem can be solved with the help of traditional dowels and self-tapping screws. Therefore, you should stock up on them in advance.
After installing the hangers, you can proceed with the installation of ceiling profiles. They are cut to the desired length and inserted into the groove of the guide profile. Further, with the help of self-tapping screws for metal, they are attached to the suspensions.
Fig.3. Installation of ceiling profiles
Fixing ceiling profiles should be done with care and try not to bend them.
Otherwise, it may affect the evenness of the ceiling. It should also be noted that for rational use profiles, mainly for the purpose of using offcuts, you can use a special connector for the profile. Thus, reduce costs by reducing the number of purchased profiles.
Fig.4. Profile extension
After the frame for the ceiling of plastic panels is assembled, you can proceed with the installation of plastic panels.
But first you need to install a ceiling plinth. For a plastic ceiling, a special plinth is sold. It has poses for plastic panels.
Skirting board installation
The plinth is fastened along three walls of the room with metal screws to the frame. At the same time, it should be noted that the wall along which the plinth is not installed should be parallel to the direction of the plastic panels, i.e. plastic panels will be mounted parallel to this wall.
Installation of plastic panels. Peculiarities
Now you can proceed with the installation of plastic panels.
Installation starts from the wall opposite the one on which the plinth is not installed. Installation is carried out as follows. Plastic panels are cut to the desired length and inserted into the groove of the plinth, and on the other side plastic panel it is attached to the frame with metal screws.
Fig.5. Installation of plastic panels
The second and subsequent panel is attached in the same way, with the only exception that it is inserted not into the groove of the plinth, but into the groove of the previous panel. After the installation of plastic panels is completed, it is necessary to install the remaining plinth. A groove is cut off from this skirting board, this can be done with a knife and attached to the ceiling and walls with liquid nails.
The installation of plastic panels has two features that should be mentioned. Firstly, the fastening of the panels must be done very carefully.
It often happens that during installation the screwdriver breaks off, so it is very easy to damage the soft plastic panel. To avoid this, it is necessary to ensure that the position of the screwdriver is perpendicular to the ceiling. In addition, there is another feature.
It is necessary to choose the right bit for the self-tapping screw. The self-tapping screw mounted on the bit must sit firmly on it, otherwise either the self-tapping screw is defective, or the bit is not selected correctly. Not a hard fit of the screw on the bit adds a chance to ruin the plastic panel.
Fig.6. Mounting errors
Secondly, when installing plastic panels, you should not press hard on the panel from the side, this can lead to its curvature and, as a result, the appearance of a gap between the panels. Given that the curvature is not large, this defect usually appears on the last panels, i.e. small distortions add up.
Fig.7. Gap between plastic panels
Fig.8.
That's all that can be said about the ceiling of plastic panels and the installation of plastic panels.
The construction market is now replete with a wide variety of finishing materials.
Main advantages modern innovations is ease of use and reliability. However, this is not always about practicality in terms of price. In this matter, undoubtedly, finishing materials made of PVC are leading in terms of profitability.
Polyvinyl chloride panels make it easy and simple to sheathe walls with a ceiling in any room. At the same time, you should not worry about costly leveling the base of the wall or worry about exorbitant prices. installation work. Make the same false ceiling do-it-yourself using PVC panels is not difficult, even without years of experience in repair work.
What will be required?
So, now we will consider exactly the option of mounting a false ceiling using PVC panels as a finishing material. This will require necessary minimum tools, PVC panels and required mounting hardware. More specifically, you will need the following tools:
- screwdriver or low-speed drill;
- tape measure, bubble level, water level;
- hammer;
- miter box, hacksaw, construction knife.
PVC panels are used as material.
According to generally accepted standards, panels can be 25 and 50 cm wide. The main parameter when buying is the area of \u200b\u200ball elements in the package. When counting required amount you should calculate the area of \u200b\u200bthe room in which the suspended ceiling will be installed, and increase the resulting amount by 10-15%, taking into account the trimming of the material.
To fix the panels on the ceiling, use special fasteners and form a frame. By themselves, PVC panels are quite fragile and soft, so for reliable fastening you will need a strong frame with frequent crates.
A U-shaped plastic profile is used along the perimeter of the room, into which the edges of the panels will be inserted. As an alternative, you can choose a color-matched ceiling plinth for PVC panels, which is already equipped with a U-shaped groove. In high-quality execution, such a plinth is a prefabricated structure, in which the U-shaped groove is assembled from two parts to facilitate installation.
For the crate, you can use a wooden beam measuring 20X40 mm or a metal profile as for drywall. In the bathroom or in the kitchen, a wooden beam will not work due to high humidity. However, thanks to more easy installation wooden beam and attaching the panels themselves to it, it can be used in a bedroom or living room.
The second parameter for selection is the price of the material, in this matter it is only necessary to check the availability and price in your region. When using wood in any form in construction, it must be treated with antiseptic impregnations and fire retardants before installation. The latter is necessary to improve the refractory properties of wood.
PVC panels of various standards
In addition, there are plastic or aluminum profiles especially for PVC panels. If the sheathing will be carried out along the ceiling with small differences up to 4-5 mm and with a minimum lowering of the false ceiling, the installation of PVC panels on the ceiling may turn out to be completely simple. The profiles are made with a special groove in the center for fastening to the base and for fixing the clips that will hold the sheathing panels.
Of the hardware, you will definitely need plastic dowels and nail-screws for them (an alternative can be anchors with a wedge for driving). They will fasten the frame elements and profiles around the perimeter to the walls and ceiling.
The frame itself is assembled using screws with a drill tip for a metal profile and wood screws for a beam. PVC panels can be fastened either with screws with a press washer or with special metal clips. The approximate number of all hardware can be calculated after the method of fixing the ceiling is chosen, and after reading the installation instructions.
Preparation stage
Even considering that the ceiling is out of sight, it should be cleaned of all elements that may subsequently fall off or sprinkle on the mounted false ceiling: damaged plaster or putty between the plates, whitewash, old finishing material and so on. The entire surface of the ceiling is primed.
Only after that you can start marking for the installation of the perimeter and frame. To do this, draw a line on the walls throughout the room, which will indicate a single level of the future ceiling.
The ceiling should be lowered taking into account which lighting fixtures will be used, the presence of hidden wiring or other communications, as well as the unevenness of the ceiling itself. For wiring, you should take into account the mandatory presence of a gap between the upper edge of the frame and the ceiling of at least 1.5-2 cm. As a guideline from which the lowering will be measured, you should choose the lowest place on the ceiling.
As soon as the first mark is set, you can transfer it to all four walls along the edges using a water or laser level.
To outline the line around the entire perimeter, you can use twine, richly painted over with bright chalk. By pressing the edges of the twine against the wall along the marks, you can slightly take it away and let it go. As a result, the chalk will remain on the wall.
When the perimeter is outlined, you can begin to mark the location of the supporting elements of the frame. Profiles or beams should be placed perpendicular to the future direction of PVC panels and at a distance of 40 to 60 cm. At a greater distance, suspended ceilings from panels may sag slightly during operation.
Advice: No matter how much you would like this, there are still cases when both the floor and the ceiling of the premises in multi-storey buildings of mass development are not leveled, and it is extremely expensive to fix this. In this case, it is better to deviate somewhat from binding to a strict level and draw a perimeter line with a certain slope so that the difference between the planes of the ceiling and the floor is not visually striking.
Frame installation
Option 1: plastic crate
A plastic U-shaped profile or a plinth with it is attached around the perimeter of the entire room so that its lower border runs along the previously drawn line. To join the profiles in the corners, use a miter box and a hacksaw.
This is the only way to get a beautiful cut and a minimum gap. The profile should be fixed every 25-30 cm. Further, to facilitate the process of mounting the frame, you can pull a thread or fishing line across the ceiling so that it forms a plane along with the upper edge of the profile.
Option 2: wooden frame
Wooden beams are attached to the ceiling with dowels and impact screws, every 60 cm. In order to bring them to the same level along the bottom edge, you can use wooden linings between them and the ceiling.
Option 3: metal profile
The metal profile, as in the case of drywall, is attached using U-shaped elements located every 60-80 cm. The so-called "pawns" are most conveniently attached to the ceiling with anchors with a driven wedge, and to the profiles using screws with a drill tip.
There is no need to mount jumpers between the carriers of the frame, however, they will be needed in places where it is supposed to fix something heavy, for example, a chandelier.
At the end of the installation of the frame, laying is performed power cables for lighting. When using PVC panels, wires must be laid in corrugations to ensure fire safety. In places where spotlights will be installed, it is enough to leave loops 10-15 cm long.
Installation of PVC panels
Now, when the frame is ready and brought to a single level, you can proceed with the installation of suspended ceilings.
This is the least troublesome and at the same time responsible process. The first strip of material is inserted into a U-shaped profile. Some masters cut off a latch along the edge at the first strip.
As soon as the strip is in place, it is fixed with screws or clips to the supporting profiles of the frame, without missing a single one. You can cut a strip of the required size using a hacksaw or simple knife. The material is fairly easy to cut.
Important: PVC panels should be cut to a length slightly less than the distance between the walls. There must be a gap between the strip and the walls, about 4-5 mm from each end.
The next strip is applied to the lock at a slight angle and led into it along the entire length. After that, the second side is pressed against the frame and also fixed with screws. In order to tightly bring the strips together, you can use a bar or a piece of the same PVC panel, which is inserted into the groove and gently hammered all the way with a hammer.
The main thing is not to bend the strips of material in any case and not to apply too much effort during installation. PVC panels are quite fragile and even inaccurate hand pressure can leave a dent that cannot be removed. Installation is best done with a partner or using simple supports with crossbars.
The main difficulty may arise when installing the last strip.
In one embodiment, you can turn the strip with the lock in the other direction and cut it along the length from the side of the groove to the desired width. Further, having attached tightly to the previous panel, the last element of the ceiling is also fastened with screws. When using collapsible skirting boards, it is easier and more reliable to simply cut the strip to the width and snap the lock with the previous strip, as in all other cases.
If it is planned to install spotlights in the ceiling, it is naturally more expedient to think it over in advance and insert spots “on the ground”. Read more about the installation of lighting in a plastic or any other ceiling - read the link.
Completion
After all the stripes are installed, you can proceed to finishing. When using a U-shaped profile around the perimeter, a plinth is installed separately.
It is best to fix it on liquid nails. At the same time, it is better to apply them only on one side of the plinth. That is, the plinth is attached either only to the wall, or only to the ceiling.
In the case of a collapsible plinth, the mating part simply snaps into place. In the corners, you can use special adapter sleeves or cover the gaps with a sealant of a suitable color.
In pre-marked places, holes should be made for the output of lighting wires or for the installation of spotlights. The same work can be done during the installation of the ceiling.
At the very end of the work, the fixtures and all the equipment necessary for them are installed directly. It is advisable to adhere to generally accepted standards, and in the case when a suspended ceiling is mounted in the bathroom, then install low-voltage lighting fixtures with a converter instead of the usual circuit using 220 V. However, the fact that the ceiling of PVC panels is not afraid of moisture to a certain extent can be guaranteed to be secure themselves from the effects of moderate flooding by neighbors from above.
Video: an example of installing PVC panels on the ceiling
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One of the most practical options finishing the room - assemble a suspended ceiling from plastic panels with your own hands.
And this is no coincidence. After all, panels based on polyvinyl chloride (PVC) have a number of useful properties. Thanks to this, the ceiling made of plastic panels perfectly competes with drywall, armstrong, and even stretch ceilings that are now popular.
Advantages of plastic panel ceiling
To answer this question, it is necessary to reveal all the positive properties of pvc panels. The main advantages of plastic panels over competitors are as follows:
Firstly, it is a moisture resistant finishing material.
He has proven himself in rooms with high humidity, whether it is a bathroom or a toilet. Moreover, the ceiling of plastic panels is not only not afraid of high humidity, but quite calmly tolerates any flooding. Therefore, if your neighbors on the floor above have a habit of forgetting about the open faucet in the bathroom, such a ceiling will be an excellent solution to reduce losses from such comrades.
Secondly, it is very available material to decorate the ceiling. Therefore, in addition to use in the bathroom or in toilet room, it is successfully used for arranging loggias, balconies, corridors. It is also popular in suburban buildings, such as country houses.
Another plus of this material is that it is very convenient and easy to use.
In order to assemble a ceiling from plastic panels with your own hands, you do not need an expensive tool. In addition to this, it is worth saying that plastic ceilings are very easy to care for. They are simply wiped with a damp cloth, do not need regular painting and have sufficient strength for the ceiling.
However, before you use this material, you need to know about its shortcomings.
First, it initially emits a specific smell.
After all, it is a product of chemical production. This point should be taken into account. It is not advisable to install such panels in fire hazardous rooms, since they release toxic substances when burned.
Of the shortcomings in the design plan, it should be noted next moment. Due to the fact that the panels are joined to each other, even with high-quality work, microscopic seams between the panels are visually noticeable. Especially if white panels are chosen for the ceiling decoration.
And yet, if pvc panels are used in suitable premises, then you can get a practical and beautiful ceiling.
How much material is required to assemble a ceiling from plastic panels with your own hands?
In order to construct a suspended ceiling from plastic panels with your own hands, you will need the following materials.
– PVC – panels;
- moldings for them or accessories;
– material for the frame (wooden bars, metal or plastic profiles);
- fasteners for the frame and panels;
- wiring, in case of installation of lighting fixtures.
Calculation of the number of pvc panels
To do this, you need to accurately measure the dimensions of the existing ceiling. Next, you need to decide how the pvc panels will be located - along the larger side of the room or across it. If it is planned to mount the panels along, then the quantity is determined as follows.
Quantity (pieces) = Room width (cm) / Usable panel width (cm)
The formula is correct provided that the length of the room is no more than the length of the panel.
With a transverse arrangement of PVC panels, their number is calculated as follows:
Quantity (pieces) = Room length (cm) / Usable panel width (cm)
At the same time, if the width of the ceiling is equal to or less than half the length of the panel, then the amount must be halved, since trimming can also be used.
The store has panels with a usable width of 25cm and a length of 270cm. In this case, it is more profitable to place the panels across the loggia and cut two from one for the ceiling. Then
(350/25)/2=7 . You will need seven panels.
And in general, with regard to the location of the panels relative to the ceiling, it is often done out of a desire to minimize the number of trimmings.
And about the dimensions of the panels that are most found on sale, we can say the following. The most popular pvc panels are 270 cm and 300 cm long. Depending on the width, there are such - 25cm; 33cm; 37.5cm; 48.5cm.
PVC panels come in a wide variety of colors. Moreover, there are matte or glossy. For their fastening to the crate of the frame, self-tapping screws with a press washer 9-13 mm long, small nails and metal staples for the stapler are suitable.
Frame material calculation
Since the ceiling is suspended, you will need material for the manufacture of the frame. The frame can be assembled from wooden blocks, usually 25 x 40 in size.
But only if we do not plan to make such a ceiling in a room with high humidity. In this case, it is not advisable to use wood for the manufacture of the frame and profiles should be used. Moreover, the cost of wooden bars is comparable to the cost of metal profiles, which means it is more reliable and practical to use them for the frame.
Do-it-yourself ceiling frame made of plastic panels
To build a metal frame, it is convenient to use a ceiling profile.
You will also need guides of the appropriate size. And for attaching the frame to the ceiling, suspensions will be required. Fastening suspensions to the ceiling and guides to the walls is conveniently done using dowel-nails measuring 6 by 40 or 6 by 60.
To assemble the frame, the so-called "bugs" are useful. This is such a small specific self-tapping screw, in which the hat resembles a trapezoid in cross section.
Do-it-yourself ceiling made of plastic panels. Mounting methods
The most difficult and important part in arranging a ceiling made of plastic panels with your own hands is the correct installation of the frame. If in the future the installation of built-in lights is required, then the design of the plastic ceiling frame should be 7 cm lower than the existing one. This is exactly the distance that allows you to install lighting fixtures.
Having assembled the frame, you need to take care of the lighting and lay the wires for the lighting fixtures. After that, you can finally start fastening pvc - panels to the crate.
Methods for mounting plastic panels
The first option is how to assemble a ceiling from plastic panels with your own hands - using moldings or accessories. To do this, a final element or, in other words, a “start” is attached around the perimeter of the frame.
Usually L = wall length - 1 cm. This gap will make it easier for us to install the first panel. Trimming is conveniently done with a paint knife on a metal corner.
Sometimes solid panels come across and they will have to be cut with a jigsaw or, in its absence, with a hacksaw with fine teeth.
The other side is called the wide mounting shelf. It must be fixed with screws to the frame.
How to fix the ceiling of plastic panels with your own hands
Then we insert the next panel with a narrow fastening part into the groove of the first until it stops, so that there is no gap between them, and fasten it to the frame. The following are installed in the same way. The last panel should be reduced and cut lengthwise by 5-8 mm from the side of the wide mounting part relative to the final molding.
Then install it in the groove of the last “start” and slide it into the groove of the penultimate panel. There is no need for subsequent fasteners. In places where it is planned to install ceiling lamps or chandeliers, an additional crate is pre-mounted.
The second way is how to assemble a ceiling from plastic panels with your own hands - without the use of moldings. This option is very similar to the first one. The only difference is that the first and last panels are additionally fixed from the extreme sides with fasteners.
And the gaps between the panels and the wall are then closed by gluing ceiling plinths made of expanded polystyrene.
In such a simple way, you can assemble a ceiling from plastic panels with your own hands. Dear readers, I hope this material of the site will help you to install a ceiling made of plastic panels with your own hands without waste of time and effort and appreciate its practicality.
Despite the variety of types of suspended ceilings, such as plasterboard, stretch or armstrong, plastic panel ceilings have not lost their popularity to this day, due to their low cost and ease of installation.
Basically, plastic panels are used for mounting plastic ceilings in bathrooms, kitchens, balconies or loggias, gas stations, but also for wall panels and sheathing of communication systems, sewerage and water pipes leaving an inspection hatch to control taps and water meters. The use of panels for large ceilings is not very advisable, since such a ceiling does not look aesthetically pleasing due to the limited panel length of 3 meters, there are also 6 meters, but it is not always possible to bring them into the room. Because of this, it is necessary to add a docking H-profile, which does not completely match the color of the panels and stands out strongly against the general background.
Do-it-yourself installation of panels begins with the assembly of the frame to which they will be attached, the frame can be made of wood or metal profiles that are used in the installation of drywall. It is better to use metal profiles, as they are more even, unlike a board or a bar.
Frame assembly materials:
- profile UD;
- CD profile;
- suspensions;
- dowel with a diameter of 6 mm;
- self-tapping screws for metal with a press washer 4.2x13 mm "fleas".
Minimum set of tools for installation on a concrete ceiling:
- perforator;
- screwdriver;
- metal scissors;
- hacksaw or electric jigsaw;
- water level;
- drill bit 6 mm.
You may also need an upholstery cord and a 2.5-3 mm drill, a drywall crown, a miter box, silicone.
Step-by-step instructions for installing plastic panels
If there is no hidden wiring on the ceiling, it must be placed in corrugated pipes to prevent possible ignition.
Before installing the profiles, it is necessary to mark the ceiling to which the ceiling will be lowered, taking into account the height of the UD profile of 45 mm and the height of the starting profile of 8-10 mm, this is especially important for balconies, since the final height of the false ceiling overhang will block access to opening balcony windows.
I set the marks in the next step, you need to transfer them with the help of a ruler from bottom to top by 8-10 mm, depending on the height of the starting Elk profile.
After marking, the installation of UD profiles is carried out. The profile must be leaned against the wall so that its lower part is at the mark, then, using a puncher equipped with a drill bit, we drill the profile along with the wall to the length of the dowel with a margin of 10 mm. After drilling the first hole, you can hammer in the dowel, which is convenient if you work alone.
The next step is the installation of suspensions, in order to determine their location, you need to put marks on the UD profile, since in the future a CD profile is attached to the suspensions, then the marks are applied based on its location. The CD profile is mounted perpendicular to the length of the plastic panels. Having determined the direction of the plastic panels, we make a mark on the UD profile perpendicularly every 50 cm.
Next, we insert the CD profiles cut to the required length into the UD profile and fasten the suspensions to the ceiling with dowels, then we connect the suspension with the CD profile with self-tapping screws, if the profile span is large, then we check the level or pull the cord so that the frame is on the same level. At the end, we connect UD and CD with self-tapping screws.
If will be used wooden frame, it is desirable to treat it with an antifungal agent.
When the frame is ready, we fix the starting Elku profile or the fillet ceiling plinth or F-profile.
Professionals advise first fixing 3 guide profiles, and glue the last one after joining all the panels. You can mount 4 "elks" at once, but then, due to poor pressure, a small gap may form between the last and previous panel, the advantage of this method is quick installation without the use of liquid nails.
Depending on your choice, whether this is a starting profile or a fillet, the sequence of further work depends.
If the starting profile is selected, then the first 3 are fastened with self-tapping screws, and the last one is fastened with liquid nails, otherwise all 4 are fastened with self-tapping screws.
If this is a fillet, then all 4 or more can be fixed on liquid nails, and the latter is attached at the end, taking into account that its “tongue” is cut off, see the video for more details.
The same can be applied to the F-profile.
I would like to note that no matter which version of the guide you choose, it can be fixed in any way convenient for you, with self-tapping screws or liquid nails, staples or nails on wood.
Laying the first row
We cut the PVC panel 5 mm less than required to facilitate installation.
We put one edge of the panel into the PVC guide. To start the second edge, you need to slightly bend the panel down.
We fasten the panel to the profile with a “flea” self-tapping screw. On a wooden frame, you can use an ordinary drywall screw.
We insert the second panel and press down so that the lock snaps into place.
Installation of the last plastic panel on the ceiling
There are several ways to fix last panel:
1. The easiest way is to cut the panel 5-7 mm less in width, first slide it into the guide, and then push it into reverse side until the lock clicks.
2. Glue the last panel to the profiles on liquid nails together with the L or F profile, or in the case of a fillet, the panel is glued first, and the fillet with the “tongue” cut off on it. For more information about the last option, see the video.
Fixtures for PVC
We make holes for recessed fixtures or ventilation using a drywall crown dressed on a screwdriver or drill.
How to make corners?
It is not necessary to cut corners on the L or F profile, they are not very noticeable. But for fillets you need a miter box and strong nerves if you are a beginner. After the installation is completed, we cover the gaps with silicone, watch the video.
In order not to resort to buying a miter box, you can purchase corners for PFC fillets, they are shown in the photo below.
