Coating waterproofing under tiles in the bathroom. Bathroom waterproofing under tiles - which is better? Waterproofing device, choice of materials. Drain pipe sealing

The atmosphere of the bathroom is characterized by high humidity. In addition, there is a high risk of flooding neighbors in the event of an accident on water supply lines or failure of water folding mechanisms.

Therefore, the issue of waterproofing the bathroom is extremely relevant. It is necessary to protect the material of the intermediate floor from moisture and those unpleasant consequences that it invokes.

These are such negative consequences as:

general dampness in the bathroom;
the formation of mold and mildew, spoiling the look of the bathroom and extremely harmful to people;
the appearance of an unpleasant odor;
detachment finishing walls and floors;
destruction of roof structures.

Materials for waterproofing a floor intended for tiles

All materials used for floor waterproofing are divided into the following types:

roll pasting insulation;
coating insulation - pastes, mastics, liquids;
penetrating insulation for concrete base impregnation;
hydrobarriers on a polymer or rubber basis;
dry cement insulating mixtures intended for self-dilution with water.

For the most part, the first two types of waterproofing are used to prepare the bathroom floor - pasting and coating.

A standard bathroom with a low level of humidity and finishing coating from small tiles it is better to isolate using roll materials. To do this, you can use the well-known roofing felt and roofing felt, but it is better to give preference to modern materials based on fiberglass and polyester - such as isoelast, ecoflex, mostoplast, isoplast.

This method requires careful preparation of the concrete base:

it should not have differences of more than 2 mm;
concrete must be completely dry.

The base requires preliminary application of a primer, which is a bituminous emulsion. And the process of sticking rolled insulation requires great care. This method is good in that the level of the floor will practically not change, since the thickness of the pasting layer is about 1 mm. Floor tiling can be done within a day after the installation of waterproofing.

It can be purchased as ready-made, and in the form of a dry powder, which will have to be prepared independently. This insulation must be applied in at least 2 coats at least 6 hours apart. The second and subsequent layers of insulation are applied perpendicular to the previous one. This allows you to fill even the smallest cracks and gaps with the composition. After applying the last layer, it is necessary to take a break for at least 24 hours, and only after that you can tile the floor.

It should be borne in mind that the floor level of the bathroom should be 50 mm lower than the floor level of the premises adjacent to it.

This is done so that in the event of a leak, water does not immediately go into neighboring rooms where the floors do not have waterproofing.

The initial stage of any work in the bathroom is the creation of a waterproof "trough". To do this, even before waterproofing, it is necessary to seal the joints between the floor and the walls of the room. In old panel houses they may even be transparent. For this purpose, you can use mastics or high-quality sealant.

To perform the work you will need the following tools:

vacuum cleaner;
metal brushes or grinder;
notched trowel;
construction knife - for cutting roll material;
gas-burner;
foam roller or paint brush.

Base preparation:

dust must be carefully removed with a vacuum cleaner;
if there are oil stains and paint residues on the floor, they must also be removed with non-aggressive chemicals;
the floor surface must be sanded - this will level the surface and make it smooth;
then the surface must be dried and vacuumed again;
all cracks and irregularities with a depth of more than 5 mm must be rubbed with cement mortar;
the floor surface is wiped with a damp cloth and dried;
a dry surface is treated with a deep penetration primer - it is better to use a brand suitable for use in wet areas.

The primer layer will finally fill in all small irregularities and improve the adhesion of the base.

Insulation of this type is built-up and self-adhesive.

The deposited material requires heating the adhesive layer with a burner.

At the same time, the bituminous material emits a rather strong odor, which requires the installation of an additional screed layer on top of the insulation. In this case, the floor level may become 2-3 cm higher, which is undesirable.

Therefore, it is better to use self-adhesive roll insulation:

The roll is rolled out on the floor and a piece of the required length is cut off from it. It should be 30-40 cm longer than the floor section. This is necessary so that the excess length can be brought to the walls.
From the wrong side of the cut piece, you need to remove the protective film and carefully lay it on the marked area of \u200b\u200bthe floor with an overlap on the walls.
For better adhesion of the material to the base, it is rolled on top with a heavy cloth roller.
The following pieces of insulation are laid in the same way, observing an overlap of adjacent pieces of at least 10 cm.
The seams and joints of adjacent strips must be smeared with mastic.
After it hardens, the surface must be primed again.

This method has its pros and cons that you need to know.

The advantages of roll insulation are:

low cost of materials;
high heat resistance of the insulating layer;
simple installation.

Among the disadvantages are the following:

unpleasant smell of bituminous materials;
complexity in the process of arranging joints;
inability to use in underfloor heating systems.

Coating floor insulation technology

Most often, the following materials are used for these purposes:

Bitumen-rubber mastic based on oxidized bitumen, organic solvent and crumb rubber. It has good adhesion to concrete, but its properties appear mainly on fiber-reinforced concrete.
Bitumen-polymer mastic - contains plasticizers and latex filler. It is very popular with professional repairers because it has excellent adhesion to concrete and is very durable.
Acrylic water-based waterproofing composition - materials of the latest generation. Very plastic, durable, environmentally friendly and odorless. Therefore, their use is now becoming more widespread.

The process itself is simple, but requires great care:

Using a paint brush or roller, the composition is applied to the floor and walls to a height of 20 cm.
After installation of each layer, it is necessary to wait approximately 24 hours before applying the next one. Usually three layers are enough.
After the second layer, it is better to lay a reinforcing glass mesh on the surface, which is then covered with the last layer of insulation.
If there are places in the room where pipes come out of the floor, then special cuffs must be used, which are also coated with mastic.
Until the mastic is dry, it can be sprinkled with fine dry sand. This will improve its adhesion to tile adhesive.

This method is very good for rooms with complex geometry, where the marking and labeling of rolled materials can present some difficulties.

simple installation;
relatively low cost of the material;
good adhesion to the concrete base;
resistance to chemicals;
the formation of an almost monolithic waterproof layer.

The disadvantages include:

toxicity of materials requiring the use of protective equipment while working with them;
low frost resistance;
not too high mechanical strength.

Each of these methods of waterproofing a bathroom floor can be done independently. To obtain the proper result, you need to carefully study the instructions for using the material and strictly follow the recommended work technology.

The bathroom has a special microclimate - high humidity, constant evaporation, temperature fluctuations. Therefore, for finishing the floor, walls and ceiling, specialized materials are being developed that can maintain their characteristics in these extreme conditions.

Such qualities are possessed by ceramic tiles, the manufacturers of which have taken care of protection from moisture. The weak point of this method of decoration is the tile joints, through which water and condensate penetrate the capital floors, leading to their destruction. Therefore, even when using ceramic tiles The bathroom needs good waterproofing.

Creation of a hydrobarrier

Waterproofing is a system of measures to organize a hydro-barrier between the final coating of walls, ceiling and floor using materials that do not allow water to pass through. Based on what materials are used, the following types of waterproofing are distinguished:

Choosing a waterproofing method

A room that will be finished with ceramic tiles can be created using different materials and technologies. Each of possible ways has its pros and cons:

Mounting method	Advantages	Difficulties
Coloring	A smooth, mildew-resistant waterproofing layer is formed on the treated surface.	Short service life, 5-7 years depending on the operating conditions, strong smell during application, incompatibility with "warm" floor
Smearing	On the surface of the walls and floor of the drying of the cement-polymer mortar, tile adhesive can be immediately applied, which has excellent adhesion due to the porosity of the layer	A thick layer of the mixture hides a few square meters bathroom. The solution is quick-drying, so laying is done quickly
pasting	Affordable price. Relatively thin layer of waterproofing.	A burner is required for installation. In small, unventilated rooms, laying is not possible due to the risk of fire and toxic poisoning.
fill	Waterproofing is reliable, integral, monolithic. Does not require pouring screed before laying tiles	High price. Raising the level of the floor due to the thickness of the layer

In any case, the choice of technology for applying waterproofing depends on the specific conditions: the equipment that will be installed in the bathroom, temperature, humidity, and the material from which the ceiling is made.

An important point - it is unacceptable to use ceramic tiles with waterproofing from polyethylene film, even the densest of them are not protected from mechanical damage, are not able to provide reliable fastening decorative coating.

Preparation for work

Before installing waterproofing, it is necessary to perform serious preparation. To achieve good results, it is better to follow the following plan:

Dismantle the worn out flooring by removing everything up to concrete slab ceilings, eliminate debris;
Level the floor with concrete or mastic for wood, repair all existing cracks, pits and chips;
Make wet cleaning of walls and floors, clean from dirt and dust;
Cover the surface with a primer composition with a wide brush or roller;
Leave the primer to dry completely, during which it is better to close the room to prevent the ingress of dust, debris and water;
Joints and places for supplying pipes in areas where tiles will be laid, paste over with a protective tape.

If, where it is planned to lay ceramic tiles, they have wooden base in addition to the procedures described, they should also be treated with an antiseptic, a fire retardant, a protective compound against bark beetles or a complex preparation that combines these functions.

Mounting by painting method

Professional finishers apply paint waterproofing before installing a decorative coating of karmic tiles. Firstly, this option is universal, it is suitable for the floor and walls of the bathroom. Work is carried out according to the following scheme:

The one-component mastic is diluted with a solvent to the required consistency, usually it is achieved at a ratio of 1: 1. If you use low-octane gasoline, the composition will acquire a sharp, toxic odor, and the use of a more expensive organic solvent is completely safe;
The first layer is applied with a wide brush on the floor surface, going to the walls by 20 cm, "wet zones", plumbing connection points;
After drying, a second layer is applied, working with a brush in a direction perpendicular to the first;
While the mastic has not had time to completely harden, it is sprinkled with quartz sand, fine and dry, for better adhesion of the glue. Excess dusting is removed with a brush;
These activities are followed by tile laying.

The most obvious way to find out if the waterproofing has hardened and whether the next layer can be applied is to touch it with your fingers, they should not stick to the treated surface.

Installation by pasting method

Of course, using roofing material as a bathroom waterproofing is not best option, but modern materials based on synthetic rubber are easy to install and effective. The sequence of work looks like this:

After preparatory phase rolls are rolled out and allowed to straighten, cut out;
Coat the surface on which the waterproofing is mounted with bitumen-based mastic;
The cut strips are laid, overlapping each on the next by 100-150 mm;
With a gas burner or a special hairdryer, the temperature of the floor and walls is raised to 50 degrees. Heated rubber becomes elastic, and the mastic sticks;
Joints, seams are coated with mastic for additional protection. When the surface hardens, a primer is applied, followed by fixing ceramic tiles with a special adhesive.

An important nuance is that they start laying sheets from the walls, creating bends of the edges up by 20-30 cm, it is unacceptable to place joints or seams in the corners!

Goals of waterproofing works

the main task waterproofing works before installation of ceramic tiles – protection of the flooring material against the adverse effects of water penetration, which include:

The appearance and spread of mold, which is a threat to the safety of the finish of the bathroom, to the health of the family. After the appearance of mold, it is difficult to get rid of it, so it is better to provide for preventive waterproofing;
Destruction building materials. Suffer from excess moisture wooden floors, since dampness is a favorable environment for the development of putrefactive microorganisms. However, concrete under the action of water is destroyed, however, more slowly;
Water seepage into the lower floors or basement as a result of emergency leaks. The risk of breakage cannot be ruled out washing machine or gaps in the water supply, so the bathroom is equipped with a hydrobarrier that will withstand the incoming volume of water without the threat of seepage into the thickness of the floor.

A little secret - in order to prevent the flow of water from getting out of the bathroom, lower the level of the floors in it by 5-8 cm lower than in other rooms, and separate it with a threshold.

Waterproofing the floors and walls of the bathroom before installing the decorative coating will help to better protect it from high humidity, will protect the floors from deformation and create a healthy microclimate.

Video instruction

A bathroom in an apartment (or house) is a room that has a rather specific operating mode. The condensate that appeared as a result of temperature fluctuations, splashes, accidentally spilled water - all these factors constantly and systematically test the strength of the lining of walls and floors, penetrate into technological seams.

Water, accumulating at the joints of structures under tiles, in the areas of connection and passage of pipes, creates the most that neither is comfortable conditions for living and reproduction of whole colonies of fungi and bacteria. The results of long-term exposure to these "tenants" are damaged walls and ceilings of the room itself, poisoning with host toxins. In order to avoid all these horrors, mandatory waterproofing of the bathroom under the tiles is required. What is best suited for these purposes? This is something to think about.

Most requested materials

Water has destructive power. And, probably, as long as humanity exists, it is as much opposed to the water element. To date, there are the most different types The most demanded by consumers are listed below:

Plates, panels for creating a water-repellent facing layer;

Flexible materials that can be welded or glued;

Painting materials and pasty mixtures for coating (the walls and floor in the bathroom treated in this way are enveloped in a layer of waterproofing up to 1.5 cm thick);

Sprayed compositions form foam-cement or foam barriers to water;

Special waterproofing plaster, and at the same time leveling vertical surfaces;

Materials saturated with hydrophobic components and reinforcing fibers;

Impregnations and injections that can change the structure of porous building materials (the consequence is an increase in moisture-proof properties and strength).

Criterias of choice

Depending on the technical characteristics of the room in which the work will be carried out, they choose the type of one, and preferably two materials that work perfectly in tandem. It can be quite difficult (especially for a non-specialist) to decide on the options that best solve the problem of waterproofing a bathroom. However, keep in mind the following:

Moisture protection of sanitary facilities in the house does not require the same powerful waterproofing as the foundation of the building;

It must be borne in mind that in the event that the bathroom is waterproofed with your own hands, the technology should not be too complicated;

The price of the issue also matters, because. Consumables can be very, very expensive.

Comparing all these factors, as a rule, we can conclude that coating and pasting will be the most acceptable for waterproofing a bathroom and a bathroom. To perform these types of work today, a lot of various materials and finished products are produced, differing from each other in composition, price and technology.

Definition of the scope of work

There are a lot of options for carrying out moisture protection work in sanitary facilities. They are no less than the materials known and available today, with the help of which the bathroom is waterproofed under the tiles. What is better, what to give preference to?

There are three fundamental factors that determine the areas of work and the area of forthcoming processing. In the bathroom, you can protect against the destructive effects of water:

Only a horizontal surface (floor), without fail forming small bumpers (≈ 10 cm) along the walls;

Floor and areas around sanitary facilities (bath, showers, washbasins, etc.);

The floor and walls are completely, with the processing of partitions along the entire height.

The need to give preference to one type of waterproofing in advance is related to how the water-repellent barrier will be created. The same material can be applied to surfaces in completely different ways horizontally and vertically.

Coating waterproofing

This is a single or multi-layer coating with a thickness of 1 mm to several centimeters, which is created by applying a plastic composition to a surface protected from moisture.

If the coating is used to waterproof the bathroom, the following types of materials are used:

Painting, which create a thin protective film on the surface: bitumen diluted to a liquid state, the same type of mastic, water-repellent compounds for processing wood and metal structures(varnishes, paints). On vertical surfaces, such materials are applied in two layers with a brush or roller. The composition is simply poured onto the floor and evenly distributed using a squeegee scraper.

Bituminous mastics, pasty compositions based on the same with the addition of modifying additives that minimize toxicity and increase elasticity and strength characteristics.

Coating waterproofing, which creates a continuous, seamless surface on the treated area, should be preferred in cases where a screed is required in the bathroom.

Basic principles of coating

First you need to remove all construction debris and clean the surface of old, previously applied coatings, varnishes, paints and oils, repair all existing damage. Next, it is necessary to embroider at least 2 cm all joints of plates, panels, junction lines of walls and ceilings. The finished longitudinal strobes are degreased, and a self-adhesive waterproofing cord is laid in them (the floating floor in the bathroom is also processed). Further, according to the instructions, a special sealing tape is glued over the cord. The next stage is the actual coating of the surfaces planned for processing. The process ends with plastering for the purpose of leveling and pouring the screed.

It is permissible to replace the waterproofing cord with a silicone mass packaged in tubes. The process of filling the strobe with silicone must go on continuously, the resulting excess is cut off with a spatula.

Waterproofing by gluing

Pasting waterproofing can be called any waterproof coating, mounted from several layers of special materials (films, sheets, rolls) using special adhesives. Laying any overlap is a necessary condition in order to obtain high-quality waterproofing of the bathroom under the tiles.

What is better to prefer as a gluing factor? Often they use the good old way of heating the edges of the materials to be glued with a gas burner. However, this is not very safe.

On the contrary, the modern market is saturated different kind adhesive compositions. There are even some that do not require heating before use. One of the newest is Unigex-2 polyurethane mastic. The whole preparation technology consists in mixing two components and - the glue is ready for use. Using a spatula, it is applied to the edge of the sheet, and the next sheet of the coating is overlapped. This adhesive also has the properties of a sealant.

Pros and cons of pasting

Before you make waterproofing in the bathroom by gluing, you need to evaluate the positive and negative aspects of this process. Of course, the attractive side is the budget price. Of the negative points, it is worth paying attention to the fact that you will need to first take measurements, and then cut the material.

Further, the protected surface should not have large differences in height - 2 mm per 2 meters of length is permissible. The built-up option will require the use of a burner, and the work will be quite complicated, because most bathrooms occupy a small area. In addition to all of the above, it should be noted that the laying of material sheets and the thorough alignment of the corners are rather laborious processes. Lacking proper hydro skills insulating material can be overheated with a torch or torn when forming a corner.

Work technology

What work needs to be done before waterproofing the bathroom under the tiles? Which is better - do everything yourself or invite the master? Naturally, if you have the skills, it will be cheaper to do everything yourself.

The surfaces are preliminarily leveled and the screed and plaster are completely dry. Next, remove all debris (dust, motes, etc.) and cover the surfaces twice with soil. Then all butt joints are waterproofed and, if necessary, mastic or polymer glue is applied. Cut out materials according to preliminary measurements and let them mature for at least a day.

Then you can start the gluing process. The first sheet is glued as it is convenient for the master. From where the work will start, it does not matter. The edges of each next sheet are coated with glue and overlapped (no more than 20 cm) on the previous sheet. After the end of the first layer, the sides are formed to protect the areas of the bathroom, shower, sink, etc. Waterproofing on the walls is glued from the bottom up. Strips of the second layer of waterproofing are glued across the previous one.

Waterproofing of sanitary facilities in a wooden house

Waterproofing a bathroom in a wooden house has its own specifics. Wood is not friendly with water, and if waterproofing is not properly taken care of, mold will quickly appear in the bathroom, wooden details the interior will be deformed and quickly become unusable.

Since the floors of the dwelling are made of wood, it is important to pay attention to their treatment with moisture protective agents. You also need to remember the careful processing of the ceiling, on which, condensing, warm vapor settles in the form of water droplets.

For waterproofing work wooden houses most often, special water-repellent varnish coatings are used, which effectively protect natural wood from deformation.

Price range

As for capital investments, it is certainly more profitable to purchase and use coating waterproofing materials for repairs, the price of which is much lower than for gluing. For example, a package of 15 kg of bituminous insulating mastic will cost the consumer 240-250 rubles. If we bear in mind that for the installation of a waterproofing layer with a thickness of 2 mm, 3.2 kg of material per square meter will be required. surface, it becomes clear that this method is very, very economical. And if you also take into account that the work can be done independently, fortunately, no special skills are required and you can not invite a specialist (and not pay extra money), then from the point of view of financial investments, this method of waterproofing looks more than attractive.

You can purchase mastic with improved characteristics, which include the materials of the TechnoNIKOL company. A package of 20 kg will cost the consumer 1200 - 1300 rubles. Such a cost will also not lead to a financial crisis in each individual family, and the bathroom will be reliably protected from leaks and floods.

Is there an alternative?

The classic version of the tile floor in the bathroom is a thing of the past. Today there is an increasing demand modern coatings type of self-leveling or 3D floors, anti-slip coatings "Stone Carpet".

All these floors in themselves are ideal waterproofing materials, the properties (water-repellent) of which are provided by their monolithic structure and strength. However, the installation of such coatings will require quite serious financial investments. If there are any, everything is fine - you can create an ultra-modern design in the bathroom. Otherwise, the good old tile on the floor and walls will create an atmosphere of coziness and comfort.

One of the important stages of a bathroom renovation is waterproofing, and here homeowners often face the question of what is best to use under tiles to build a reliable and durable bathroom hydro-barrier.

Waterproofing - milestone repair, which is neglected by many. Meanwhile, a good hydro-barrier extends the life of wall and floor finishes, reduces the risk of fungus and mold, prevents the destruction of the concrete base and protects the apartment from below from flooding. For example, the neighbors of the lower apartment complain that they have ugly stains on the ceiling, and sometimes drops are even clearly visible, while everything is dry in your bathroom. This means that the waterproofing is done poorly or is completely absent. Often, such troubles are attributed to force majeure, although in fact they are the result of excessive savings or ignorance.

If you want the repair to be durable, do not forget to carry out waterproofing work.

Which areas need waterproofing?

Waterproofing must be performed on the entire floor area with a minimum entry on the walls of 20-30 cm. In this case, the wall must be covered with waterproofing for at least 50 cm to the sides and up from the extreme sides of the plumbing, in general, wherever there is a high probability of moisture getting on the tile. Along with this, it is advisable to make waterproofing inside the plumbing cabinet, in which the frequent culprits of leaks are located: plumbing and sewer risers.

First of all, waterproofing should be carried out near water sources.

Types of waterproofing materials

Modern materials that are able to provide good waterproofing floors and walls of the bathroom, are distinguished by the method of application and composition:

Coating compositions - the most widely used materials are bitumen-based (bitumen-rubber, bitumen-polymer) and cement-based (cement-polymer mastics), others, such as acrylic, are used less frequently.
Pasting or roll materials are made on a polymer or fiberglass basis.

Coating waterproofing compound

Types of coating waterproofing

Materials for coating waterproofing are sold as dry or granular powders, semi-dry pastes or ready-to-use liquid form. Also, coating mixtures are one-component and two-component, the latter, as a rule, are quick-drying and more elastic.

Bitumen-polymer mastics are sold ready-made. They are made from bitumen binder and polymer fillers. This is an excellent insulating material that has high stretch and recovery rates, is non-toxic, odorless, resistant to temperature changes and aggressive environments. It is possible to use bitumen-polymer mastic for tiles only on the floor in the bathroom, subject to subsequent filling with a thin screed.
Advice! Coating waterproofing is most relevant in bathrooms small size, up to 7 sq. m.
Liquid waterproofing, bituminous latex or "liquid rubber" is one of the easiest and most convenient ways to waterproof a bathroom. The mixture is applied to the prepared base. The surface is leveled, cleaned of dirt and dust, primed. Manually, "liquid rubber" is applied with a spatula or roller in a layer up to 4 mm in one pass.

Application liquid waterproofing

After complete polymerization, the composition is leveled and becomes a seamless surface with excellent moisture-proof properties and high elasticity. On top of the bitumen-latex waterproofing, it is recommended to perform a thin screed. And after it dries, it will be possible to lay the tiles.
Important! Waterproofing with "liquid rubber" requires additional finishing. On the floor, this is usually a thin layer of leveling screed. If it is necessary to waterproof the walls under the tiles, this option is not suitable, the layer of liquid rubber can only be sewn up with drywall.
Waterproofing cement-polymer materials are quick-setting cement-based mixtures. In addition to thorough waterproofing, they can be used for quick repair and blocking leaks concrete surfaces. Cement-polymer coating waterproofing is excellent for both floors and walls, if they are later tiled. The mixture is applied with a spatula, less often with a brush, on any previously cleaned and primed surface.

Application of a cement-polymer moisture-proofing composition

Budget moisture protection. One of the most inexpensive and short-lived ways to waterproof a bathroom is acrylic enamel. It is applied to the surface in several thick layers (at least 3-4 layers). Soon the paint will crack.
As alternative some use liquid glass, but it is able to provide the necessary hydro-barrier, only in combination with a plasticizer, which, after drying, makes the layer plastic.

Roll pasting waterproofing materials

Materials for rolled waterproofing are made on the basis of polyester or fiberglass. On the underside, the canvas is covered with a layer of adhesive that provides adhesion to the base, and on top - a component that improves adhesion with tile adhesive.

Rolled waterproofing is laid on a previously prepared, cleaned and leveled surface. Height differences within 2 mm per 2 linear meters are allowed. In the list of their advantages, one can note affordable price, fastening strength to draft floor and the ability to start facing almost immediately, without observing a long technological break.

Roll waterproofing material

In addition, roll materials are suitable for waterproofing wooden floors. They are quite elastic, withstand the movement of wood and at the same time retain solidity. The rolled method of sealing is advisable to use on large areas.

Cloths of material must be overlapped by at least 10 cm on top of each other and approaching the walls. The joints are carefully glued with a roller. It is important to remove all air bubbles, if the slightest gap remains, it can be considered that all the work has been done in vain.

When and how to start arranging moisture protection

One of the key questions at this stage of repair is when to waterproof: before pouring the screed or after. But there is no consensus on this yet. And all because each of the options has both its pros and cons.

Performing a screed on top of the waterproofing will ensure an even concrete base, which has excellent adhesion and will provide good adhesion to the tile adhesive mixture. Bitumen, bitumen-polymer and bitumen-latex compositions, as well as roll materials can be used.

Under screed waterproofing

Builders who choose to seal over the screed justify their decision by the fact that in the event of leaks, the concrete mass will be protected from moisture. At this point, everything is correct, but - it is impossible to guarantee the durability of the cladding, glued directly to the waterproofing through a thin layer of tile adhesive. In this case, only cement-polymer mixtures or rolled waterproofing are suitable for arranging moisture protection.
You can also go for the third way, the most expensive in terms of time and money, but also the most reliable - combined waterproofing.

Features of combined floor waterproofing

Prepare a rough base. If necessary, carry out partial repairs or completely dismantle the old screed.

The prepared and cleaned surface is covered with a concrete contact primer, left to dry completely.
A screed with a height of 3 cm or more is pulled along the beacons, into which a reinforcing mesh is laid.
After a week, the surface is cleaned of dust and primed in two layers.

Application of the composition

A layer of any coating waterproofing is applied along the perimeter of the room in the corners of the wall-floor, allowed to dry, and then the corners are glued with a waterproof tape. The coating waterproofing mixture now covers the entire surface of the floor with at least 20 cm on the walls. Three layers are applied, strictly maintaining the drying interval of each.
Concrete contact is applied to the last layer of dried waterproofing.
A day later, pulls out the second screed with a minimum thickness of 1.5 cm.
After the final drying, the floor is covered with a primer, allowed to dry and the tiles are laid.

Wall waterproofing features

For waterproofing walls under tiles, cement-polymer mixtures are used.

Before applying waterproofing, the walls are primed in two layers. Special attention given to the corners and places of entry of pipes.
Special cuffs are put on the pipes, and the corners must be glued with a sealed waterproofing tape.
Sections of the walls are coated with a waterproofing compound, and after it has completely dried, they are covered with concrete contact to improve adhesion with tile adhesive. For reliability, a reinforcing mesh is additionally recessed into the waterproofing.
After the layers have dried, proceed to the lining.

You can continue work only after the complete drying of the waterproofing composition

IN construction work and waterproofing in particular, there is a clear trend: the more expensive the material, the more durable and reliable it is, and vice versa. Therefore, it is difficult to unambiguously answer the question: what kind of waterproofing to choose for tiles. It is important to consider the time frame in which you need to invest, evaluate own forces, if professionals are not involved in the repair, as well as financial opportunities.

Bathroom waterproofing: video

Carrying out waterproofing works: photo

The fact that tile is by far the most popular flooring in the bathroom is beyond doubt. It is good for everyone - both beautiful and durable, does not absorb moisture, wear-resistant. The list of advantages can, of course, be continued further, but it is better to focus on its problem area - the seams through which moisture can seep down into the floor.

It cannot be ruled out that even a small flood could jeopardize good relations with neighbors living on the floor below. So it is obvious that waterproofing the floor under the tiles is a must-have event.

Preparing the surface for waterproofing the tiled floor

The base for applying waterproofing under the tiles must be free of any contamination. Residuals are also removed at this stage. old paint, chemicals, oil stains. For this, detergents and mild degreasers are used.

It is forbidden to use aggressive chemical cleaning methods when preparing the base.

It is necessary to achieve the maximum possible smoothness of the surface of the base. Existing irregularities and damage can be eliminated by applying mechanical methods, for example, grinding or milling the base. You can also use a hard metal brush to clean the surface.

Upon completion preparatory work the surface is again cleaned of dirt and dedusted.

Thus, the resulting surface must be absolutely clean, smooth, chemically neutral and completely dry.

In the future, a primer is applied to the cleaned floor - priming is necessary to improve adhesion with waterproofing materials. Usually, special quick-drying bitumen primers or moisture-proof paint are used for the primer. The material is well mixed before application. Having received a homogeneous mass, it is applied to the base in a thin layer. When choosing and calculating the consumption of primer material, the density of the substrate should be taken into account, since, say, coatings with a lower density absorb it more. The base can be considered ready for waterproofing when the primer dries.

Laying waterproofing on the floor under the tiles: application technologies

According to SNiP 3.04.01-87, floor waterproofing is carried out for rooms where the intensity of water exposure to it has an average and high level. In apartments, such rooms primarily include bathrooms. Just the ones where flooring tile protrudes more often.

Waterproofing with roll materials

Waterproofing with self-adhesive materials extremely simple and, in principle, not much different from laying ordinary linoleum.

First you need to mark the insulation on the floor of the room.
Further, having cut off a fragment of the material of the required size, the protective film is removed from its inside and applied to the base.
For better adhesion to the surface of the base, they “pass” over the laid material with a heavy roller.
Subsequent waterproofing sheets are laid with an overlap, capturing 4–5 cm from each of the previous strips.
The junctions of the walls are the most dangerous, therefore, much more “enter” the walls - about 15-20 cm.

When using welded roll materials the installation technology is generally similar, although there are certain subtleties.

The roll in this case is unwound directly during laying. The adhesion of the waterproofing to the surface of the base, its reliable fastening is ensured by heating the bitumen layer with gas burner. At the end of the work, the waterproofing layer is poured with a concrete screed.

Waterproofing by coating technology

Liquid materials used to protect floors from moisture are more versatile and completely undemanding to the quality of the insulated surfaces.

General scheme for applying coating hydroprotection

The coating mixture is applied to the floor with a roller, spatula or brush. For large surfaces, special spraying equipment can also be used.
When using cement-polymer mastic, you can bring the floor level to the required height and ensure the evenness of the base. In this case, the condition for further pouring of the screed disappears. If bituminous mastic is used, its layer is thin and the need for a screed remains.
The coating material should be applied very carefully, leaving no gaps on the surface to be insulated. Joints require increased attention.

The most common option for waterproofing surfaces under tiles is the application of special one-component mastics.. They have many advantages, in particular, they:

seamless;
are applied in a continuous layer, therefore they are devoid of such “weak” places as joints;
easy and simple to apply with a roller or brush;
resistant to microorganisms, for example, to fungal mold;
the layer of mastic is vapor-permeable, that is, it allows the room to "breathe".

To ensure optimal waterproofing, it is recommended to apply mastic in two or three layers.

It should be borne in mind that the time for complete drying of the mastic layer depends on the temperature and humidity conditions of a particular room. Therefore, before applying the next layer, check the degree of drying of the previous one. It’s easier to check “for touch” - the mastic should not stick to your fingers.

The top layer of mastic that has not yet completely hardened is sprinkled with fine dry quartz sand (0.3-0.8 mm). Such an operation is necessary to roughen the surface, which will subsequently provide the best adhesion to adhesives.

When the mastic hardens, that is, the process of its polymerization is completed, excess sand from the surface must be removed with a brush. The laying of tiles is started no earlier than a day, and for some types of material - up to two.